Let's Build a Traditions St. Louis Hawken | How-To Series Part 8: Staining Your Stock

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We got this kit from Flintlocks LLC, visit them on flintlocksllc
In this next part of our Traditions St. Louis Hawken kit building video series, Ethan tests out and then applies some stain to the beechwood Hawken stock. After staining We go through several finishing processes including burnishing, oiling, sanding and more.
With our hardware finished, we’re ready to move onto finishing out stock. In the previous parts of this series, we’ve done a lot to this stock to make it fit and feel right, but the stain and oiling is going to be the most dramatic change, so buckle up and let’s get to it.
For the series, I’m going to try out 3 different wood stains,
Varathane Chestnut
Varathane Gunstock
Minwax Cherry No. 235
These stains are available at any hardware or home improvement store and will work fine for what we are doing. I’ve had them in the shop for a while for use on some home improvement projects, so if you are worried about buying a whole can for just this stock, remember you can always use the rest on something else!
If you are looking to build a very nice longrifle, or one a bit more historically accurate than this, consider checking out some of the longrifle specific stains available from Dixie Gun Works, Flintlocks LLC, Jim Chambers Flintlocks, Track of the Wolf, or any other muzzleloading supply shop. The colors and options they have are a higher quality and offer some nicer colors than we can get with these generic wood stains.
In this multi-part video series, NMLRA Field Agent Ethan shows you how to build a Traditions St. Louis Hawken muzzleloading kit from start to finish. These are entry-level kits and offer anyone interested in muzzleloading an affordable and simple way to build their own muzzleloader.
If you are new to the series, be sure to visit our channel and head back to part 1 to follow along step by step as we build this kit from start to finish. Our goal is to make a comprehensive video series to accompany the instructions provided by Traditions Performance Firearms.
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[@Jagdtyger2A]

Years ago, when my eyes were still working, my first Black Powder gun was a Hawken rifle, which I built as a kit. It was a good shooter and I had years of good times with it. But I had to sell it to help with the financial burdens of raising a family. By the time that was over, my eyes were shot

[@mattgroll3820]

Thanks for this series. I am going to put together one of these kits.

[@psychodiagnostik]

Can't wait to see how those parts you prepared look on it.

[@KaliBlaz]

use a pre-stain conditioner to allow the stain to uniformly penetrate the wood and avoid blotchiness and also use a rag instead of that tiny brush, it helps the stain to absorb and flow along the grain much better...

[@theophilhist6455]

agreed...I commented above as well

[@edwardlove4300]

As an retired home painter I agree with the pre stain process. One I used to make was any good quality varnish mixed with paint thinner. About one ounce varnish to about six ounces paint thinner. Brush on and let it dry overnight. Wet sand the wood with 800 grit sandpaper. Wipe it down with mild dish soap and water. Rinse with fresh water let it dry well and you're ready to apply the stain. One more thing would be to stain everything inside and out. This gives a more complicated look especially after the hardware is screwed on. 😅

[@marktaylor8659]

Looking outstanding. I'm really looking forward to seeing the rifle put together.

[@BigWoodsman]

Love the build video series. I will be starting 2 of these kits shortly. Get rid of the brush and get some decent sponge applicators for stain. Reduces runs and gets a better finish right from the start.

[@buckskinsblackpowder7106]

With the softer beechwood, I always go with a water base or alcohol based stain. Leaves a much more smoother finish, where as oil can look blotchy.

[@BigWoodsman]

@@buckskinsblackpowder7106 Have you ever tried wood conditioner before staining or oiling. Really blends the stain to remove the blotches?

[@prairiebhoy9199]

Ever try rubbing the stain into the wood (like minwax) ? Works for furniture and gives lots of control

[@BigWoodsman]

for a lot of years I never did. Recently I have tried it and I will never go back. It makes such a difference on the final finish.

[@robertrandin9568]

That's a great color I like it but it works better if you use cotton balls or a lint-free rag to put the stain if you get more of an even coat

[@sailorjohnboy2325]

Looking good!! I like a coat of minwax walnut with Sedona red on top of that. I seal it all up with a couple of coats of natural danish oil. Not "authentic" but the color I like. After every use, I finish my cleaning routine with a coat of Howard's Feed-N-Wax.

[@homemadehistory7537]

again a nice video .... thanks a lot and more of thet please. 😁👍

[@prairiebhoy9199]

I have the same rifle purchased from Cabelas finished about 27 years ago. The stock came in a dark walnut (wood not finish) that made for a heavy gun. The scroll work under the trigger was not on mine but the rest of the brass on the guard is the same. A little quality oil and the wood is beautiful

[@nojremlock6826]

Cabinet makers suggestion...take a cloth and soak up some.stain..then start at one end and apply liberally all the way down...then take clean cloth and wipe down from one end to the other. This will allow for even absorption and even smooth color...reapply if necessary

[@markgoostree6334]

The "Gun Stock" color was my choice after your first dot test! I think you made a great choice. My T.C. Hawken came with a very nice walnut stock so my choice was made for me. I did four coats of BLO rubbed and polished between coats then three coats of stock wax. I feel lucky about the look and feel of the stock. great color and a silky smooth surface. Now I've got to go shoot it and dirty it up a little bit! I've enjoyed watching your videos, the process, the progress, and your good looking rifle is going to be a pleasure to own!

[@chucklucas8747]

Try floor polish in a old stocking after the staining is finished an dry to your liking it gives the stock a nice finish an you give it a it coat when needed

[@journeyquest1]

Thank you.

[@journeyquest1]

Reddish brown gunstock is what i will use. Use a water or alcohol based stain not an oil based stain. Water based will soak into the wood better.

[@humpy936]

I would put the stain on with #4 steel wool or old T-shirt.

[@petrosspetrosgali]

The problem with the minwax and I think the varathane is that you only get one color out of them. Solvent based stains are WAY better and not much more expensive.

[@lawerncemiller6557]

I think it looks stupid with the inside of the stock white while the outside is stained the whole stock should be stained and att least one coat of finish applied inside this helps seal the wood from moisture

[@grorob52]

fantastic job. Well done on the finish and the instructions. I'm at the point of staining my Great Plains rifle from a kit at Muzzle-loaders and very happy on the fits and wood I have to work with. I'm going for the 2 tone type finish on the Liver-eater gun. Your stock comes close to the darker edges and rough look. Any suggestions on the black type end and edge finish? Do I use a dark stain on the butt end , barrel trough and nose cone? The entire series you have done is very informative Happy new year

[@kennyclark4510]

Next time try liquid brown shoe polish.. . It will fill an lift the wood.. takes a lot of coats.. buff in between...the wood will let you know when it gets full and the polish will set ontop of the wood... let dry over night then buff .. the old timers did this...makes the wood water proof also

[@tomasmcmillan3131]

Thank you, you have inspired me to attempt to build a hawkins kit. Gemmer or st luis what is easier and which has a better finish due to better wood and qualtiy of parts??

[@M81_WOODLAND]

After attempting several stock refinishes: VARATHANE! That stuff was a game changer for me. I can't recommend it enough over Min-Wax. IME the Varathane finish is soooo much easier to work with and just comes out really nice. I know some old-timers will disagree with me, and that's OK. I use what works for me.

[@theophilhist6455]

Never saw stain put on with a soldering acid brush. I was taught 50 years ago to use rubber gloves and cheesecloth... and a good brush to push the stain in narrow area a corners....and another thing that doesn't make sense is why I see so many builds where inlet areas are not stained. Help me understand the logic preserves wood and guns are outdoors in moisture. The antler is a cool addition...but it's even better IMHO after a wipe of linseed oil. I realize a lot of us do things differently...it's a hobby thing right?

[@doranmaxwell1755]

Have you tried real tung oil for a finish after stain? you can actually add the stain to the tung oil Tung oil tho.. the real pure stuff slightly darkens and needs lots of coats.

[@LuisInPalmdale]

On your hardware, how did you clean it? Did you remove the casting marks?

[@GeorgeTaylor-hb9jp]

Get the aqua fortis and do it right. It's not very expensive at all.

[@dmm3124]

Are you going to be at the shoot this September?

[@strangleholdoutdoors]

Stain the inlets as well

[@howardwinter3455]

Next time stain everything recesses included. Don't use ScotchBrite . 4-000 steel wool , its not as harsh on the stain . Get it as smooth as possible. Wait a few days and then finish. True Oil or polyurethane applied with your fingers.

[@charchitmishra]

can we use tru oil on this stain? for high gloss finish...

[@mikemuenze5390]

Chesnut.

[@Iron_Road]

Did you have problems with your stain being sticky even after 2 hours?

[@Lettusfarm]

Why wouldn't you stain the whole thing?

[@jackson4861]

Looks good, when do you start my build?

[@jackson4861]

@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871 you got it bro! It will be coming from montana!

[@stephenhall5430]

Don't you want a waterproof finish on unstained wood. I would at minimum oil all parts to protect from moisture penitration.

[@Rick_Sanchez_C137_]

Sssoooooo? Why no final shot showing the completed and assembled rifle?

[@314bandobrando3]

Are you in saint Louis

[@johnw.brunson9400]

Why not try true oil ?

[@kevinmcdonough9566]

Do you know anything, offhand, about using something like aquafortis for wood other than maple? My understanding is that aquafortis was a very traditional finish, but I don't know that it would have been used on, say, walnut. If I wanted to build a walnut stocked jaeger, for example, I wonder what the correct historical finish might be.

[@kevinmcdonough9566]

@@nationalmuzzleloadingrifle8871 That's about what I expected, but I am a rank amateur. I figure you guys have better informational resources than I do.

[@normanbraslow7902]

It's fine for walnut, but note it will come out pretty dark. Then only use BLO. You do not, I think want a varnish like shine.

[@kevinmcdonough9566]

@@normanbraslow7902 Thank you. I have a project in mind, and am trying to learn whatever I can.

[@normanbraslow7902]

Use iron nitrate also known as aqua fortis. It's not expensive, and is far, far better. I know. I wasted much time and effort using the commercial stuff and it just does not come out nearly as well.

[@humpy936]

Iron nitrate, and aqua fortis are two different things, they are also typically used on curly sugar maple.

[@sfcmmacro]

Noob question… is there a reason you don’t stain the barrel channel, lock inset and other “voids” in the stock?

[@shooterscott]

You can stain them if you want, I’d stain them if it was me. You don’t have to because those spots aren’t seen so it’s up to you.

[@normanbraslow7902]

Don't. The wood can swell and the parts won't fit as well.

[@dennishillman6205]

Stain that with cloth

[@j.robertsergertson4513]

Why aren't you staining the inlet areas? The stain penetrates the wood to protect it for weathering ,and keeps it from absorbing gun oils and grime ,

[@bbb103]

I've watched several of these Traditions kit building videos. Some of the people, like the gentleman in this video, put quite a bit of effort into fashioning their firearm. Unfortunately, all of the Traditions guns I've seen built with kits and also those which came prebuilt from the factory all have blotchy finishes, including the one in this video. I can tell none of these people are woodworkers. These gun stocks are made from beech wood. Beech wood absorbs liquid stain unevenly. Therefore, if you want an even finish you must use a gel stain or a wood conditioner must be applied before you apply a liquid stain. Personally, I would use a wood conditioner with a gel stain applied over it just to be doubly sure of an even finish.

[@garyhart9250]

Here's an idea step back about a foot on a big screen you are way to close to the camera . Just an idea ! But good video..