Let's fix my ultrasonic cleaner!

[@bjusticeforever]

Thanks, Jonny. My ultrasonic just started acting stupid and you've given me some great ideas on where to start looking.

[@jamesrose2753]

Have one of these ultrasonic cleaners that suddenly tripped the 20A GFCI every time I plugged it in even with the power off. Your video gave me confidence to open it up and begin troubleshooting. Turns out that 3 stinkbugs were wedged in behind the main PCB and after I cleaned them out everything runs OK again. Unusual way to create a short! Thanks for your excellent video.

[@JonnyFix]

Bugs love to crawl into high voltage areas all too often. Well done!

[@jackz6536]

Thanks for great tutorial. I just discovered your video how to repair this machine. Wish to see it earlier. I had similar problem with my machines. Fortunately managed to repair it last week. The damage list was: 1x 3.15A fuse 1x FJP13009H2TU (J13009-2) transistor 1x FR157 diode 2x 1N4007 diodes Actually I repair the board which failed recently plus another 2 identical boards. All of them had the same elements broken. Those 2 old boards failed in 2020 but I didn't know how to fix them as I didn't learned necessary skills at that time. But fortunately 3 years after I managed to learn how to do this and successfully repaired all 3 boards last week. My cleaners are bit bigger (15L) and they have 2 boards each 180W. One board is large almost like yours and the second one is bit smaller. I'm using them since 2018 and already experienced a few failures. Usually it is happening during longer work and higher operating temperature (over 50C tank temp). Maybe the problem is bad machine cooling system + bad quality (fake) transistors. I ordered new parts from mouser to be sure the quality of the parts. But I was surprised how cheap you can buy the same looking transistors from aliexpress. I'm curious what do you think about my idea that the problem is temperature and bad quality of the transistors.

[@JonnyFix]

I also think temperature plays a part especially since the transistors didn't have a good thermal connection to the heatsink. Hopefully adding the paste will help, also available are silicone pads.

[@Serpentofthenight]

I should have read your comment before I tried fixing my machine, which sounds the same as yours. I had basically the exact same failed parts as you except it was both boards that failed in the same way so double the parts. So I don't know if the bridge rectifier failed and that cause the other parts to fail or if it was the other way around. Either way seems like its a common failure path.

[@MiracleMAX]

Great diagnostic thinking Johnny! It can be frustrating when you find what you think is all of the fault, when you have several you have to chase down. Excellent job as usual 😉😉😎😎

[@JonnyFix]

Cheers mate! Hope all is well over there.

[@sandwich3051]

So glad I came across this video. I have the exact same problem with mine. But when I touched my sonic cleaner to get a carb out got a lite shock. After a while heard that pop and lost two of my transducers. This was very helpful. Thank you sincerely David owner of (I Can Fix It) Rhinelander WI.

[@JonnyFix]

Yikes! Make sure the earth wire has a tight connection to the chassis and the power cable isn't loose in the socket. Any leakage that you can feel should trip an RCD and any major faults would blow a fuse or trip a breaker. There's also a slim chance you were touching something else at the same time that has a fault only you didn't feel it until you touched the grounded cleaner.

[@petecurran3995]

Well persevered - I'm now inspired to tackle mine. (Blew transducer fuse after ~10 hrs total use!)

[@computermodem]

Hello, i enjoyed the video, and watching your fault finding process. I've tried to learn about electronics before, and it never felt as accessible as the way that you explain things. Thank you.

[@JonnyFix]

Thanks mate, glad it was helpful. My other videos show a large variety of problems that may help further your learning.

[@ToltecMerc]

Excellent repair! You saved it from the trash! Congratulations!

[@JonnyFix]

Thanks! Annoyingly it's probably done half an hour run time if that.

[@cm-hw5ww]

Great video and hello from the U.S.! I bought a smaller ultrasonic (140w, 2 transducer, dial temperature & heat control) and it died after only 3 or 4 cleanings. Nothing dramatic, just quit cleaning. Finally dug into it and it appears to have failed in the same manner as yours. The driver board on mine is smaller but has similar components. Sure enough one of the 13009 NPN transistors now identifies as a dead short (they had thermal paste and were secured to the heatsink) . And the 2.2 ohm resistor is now in the meg-ohms. I think the flyback diodes are fine but I'm going to re-check them. I don't have anything close to a 2.2 ohm so I had to order some. Be here in a few days. BTW Newark is one of my sources (along with Mouser, and Digikey). Hopefully I'll be back in 'business' soon. Thanks again for the video and your analysis.

[@JonnyFix]

Interesting how they fail right? Would love to know why. Glad I could help with yours! Well done.

[@splitice]

Mine also failed at the 2.2ohm, and a flyback and mosfet too! For the second time in 2 years. Last time however only on the mostfets. I wonder has anyone figured out how to make the circuit more robust? This seems to be a common failure. Perhaps a smaller fuse would protect these sensitive components better?

[@cm-hw5ww]

@@splitice Not mosfets but NPN Transistor, at least on mine (MJE13009). The 13009 shorted and took out the 2.2ohm and FR157 flyback diode. My ultrasonic is 'working' again however the 13009 that I replaced is too hot. Over 180 degrees C (over 350 F). They are rated at 150C and a likely reason for failure. Cannot say if it's a design flaw or manufacturing defect (wrong/defective parts). A substitute transistor with a higher rating might work but I have not found one. I'm going to run some checks on other components and voltages present. Apparently the 2.2ohm resistor is the 'fuse'. 🙃 Mine has a fuse soldered in but it has not done it's job.

[@splitice]

@@cm-hw5ww mine came with a 5a fuse. I've been beefing up all components when possible and dropped the fuse to 3a, it came with a 5a. It popped but only after critical failure. Different part on mine, j13009-2 but yes not a fet. There must be something better out there. I suspect it's killing all downstream components when it fails to short. What's the normal protective measure for that I wonder 🤔 I Had a melted wire between two transducers. I'm guessing that caused the failure. So probably also need to swap out the wiring. It's crappy aluminium core stuff anyway.

[@splitice]

Mouser does stock some potential replacement components with higher ratings. Haven't compared the datasheets though. Potentially there's a little wiggle room for using a say $3 transistor instead of a $1.50 one if it saves repeatedly repairing it

[@al_from_australia]

thanks for the video, not started my repair (model: MH-09s, board MH-010S. Ultrasonic 60W, Heating 100W) on a small unit. Used it without the basket for 10 minutes (no heating) loud pop and plenty of nasty smell. No internal signs of carbon pixies being released to the atmosphere though! Unit turns on, heating works, as soon as ultrasonic button is switched ON, the 3A fuse vaporises the fuse wire onto the glass! Hope jaycar has the spares in stock lol.

[@JonnyFix]

They'll have the fuses at least. If they're anything like the NZ stores they kinda suck for a good variety of parts. Really strange to have a bad smell with no physical damage somewhere. Have a careful look.

[@Refertech101]

I do indeed have one having trouble, and every thing points tot he driver board, and now thanks to you I know where to start probing! Awesome and thank you. and I keep big boxes of old discreet components so may be lucky and have some good power resisters to replace em if that's it!

[@leenicholls9270]

Mine blew the same three components as well. Just for sanity, is the original resistor a 3 watt 2.2 ohm. Great video by the way.

[@JonnyFix]

Ummmm.... yes? :) Probably wouldn't use anything smaller. Good luck with your repair!

[@jackz6536]

Yes it is.

[@splitice]

Thank you. It was the damn resistor! Wasnt high on my list of potential cluprits, thought it was just an in circuit probing issue (brain off, Mega should have given it away). Replaced it with a similar value temporary job much like yours, confirmed the fix while waiting on parts. Really should bite the bullet and get a FLIR I guess and beef up everything getting warm. Getting sick of repairing this thing (2nd time now).

[@JonnyFix]

Maybe since there's no IC control and the thing just oscillates based on the component values it could become unstable as parts heat up or whatever and there may be times when one transistor doesn't fully turn off before the other turns on causing an overload between them. Would be able to see on a scope how close the base drive signals are.

[@TheDefpom]

Something to consider is that the metal film caps can lose capacitance as they self heal, sometimes that can be a problem.

[@JonnyFix]

Good to know! I did check them off camera in my 'running out of ideas' moment and they're all good.

[@misterkaye7796]

When I was learning electronic repair in High School, and later in my automotive repair career, something that was always stressed, if you replace one, you replace the other one! Replacing only one transistor in one circuit & the diode in the other circuit is bad practice & asking for another failure in the near future.

[@JonnyFix]

Completely true and if in business you'd do this to avoid potential comebacks. On the other hand, practically speaking I've personally never had an issue with only replacing the failed parts, in any device.

[@zx8401ztv]

Well done jonny :-D I did wonder if that wire wound resistor had enough inductance to cause a problem. Silly me, i bet the frequency is 50khz ish, very little reactance. I'm a silly arse lol. Odd that the resistor cracked up. If that pot is metal its grounded from the mains socket.. hopefully lol.

[@JonnyFix]

60kHz. Sometimes we know enough to think up silly ideas but not enough to be able to rule them out. Great way to dig rabbit holes :) The pot would be grounded but I still don't favor the idea LOL.

[@quantarobotics]

My ultrasonic cleaner mechine run very short time and auto off by itselft without compleate tusk which electronics parts I should change?

[@myblack6636]

Thanks Jonny for sharing! I have a question, what should i do to modify my ultrasonic cleaner from 40khz to 120khz. Changing the transducers to 120khz ones is obvious, but how should I modify the oscillator?thx

[@JonnyFix]

Sorry, I'd have to research that myself. I do know that bonding the transducers to the tank is quite difficult if you were to change them.

[@charlessmith833]

Water level and resonant tuning play a major role in how well these things work. You have to get in tune with the transducers and the transducers must have the right parameters. Also, there should be a frequency adjustment or pulse width adjustment somewhere on the board. Otherwise, you will get poor action in the water and unacceptable results.

[@JonnyFix]

Good to know! Sadly this board is too cheaply built to have any adjustments. I'll consider they tuned it to be assumed always full so on that note I might make sure to fill it each time. I'll often only do half as it's easier / quicker for heating purposes.

[@stevelibby3]

@Jonny Fix great video! Thx for sharing- How has this one held up since the repair?

[@JonnyFix]

100% But honestly, haven't had to use it. Will definitely be another video IF it fails again.

[@stevelibby3]

@@JonnyFix I’d like to modify mine to prevent components from burning so easily, and be able to hold high temperatures for a longer duration

[@D0ops]

this helped so much thanks alot!

[@yulaw5110]

Mine is making noise but it doesnt look like the water is getting agitated

[@JonnyFix]

Put a piece of aluminium foil in, it should create holes in it. There are videos showing what to expect. Make sure any power control is set to maximum.

[@dererrick1]

John you not put your finger in the ultrasonic when it's on because the nerfs at your fingers death off

[@quarantainment293]

What model Flir are you using?

[@JonnyFix]

Flirone pro