How to Replace a Honda Power Steering Hose 3.5 V6

3.5 V6 Honda Power Steering Hose Replacement.
DIY on replacing the Power Steering pressure hose on a 2007 Honda Ridgeline.
Similar process for Ridgeline, Pilot, Odyssey and maybe even Accord from the 2000s to more recent vehicles. The Acura MDX is similar.
Beware this job it is not much fun!

[@robertfurmanski5512]

Thank you. I just did this job yesterday. Not a a mechanic - however just got quoted $1,500 or so for this job. Our local AutoNation dealer said it was 7 hours. Which is bs- a dealership with a lift and mechanics that know their way around the truck - 3 hours if he is not chatting with his buddies. So a 4 hour quote would be realistic - but still - No thanks. This simply told me that the mechanic (technician) did not feel like doing it so he quoted the sales rep 7 hours. Or the rep is simply a horrible salesman. Then before I even asked to haggle - he stated that they could discount the per hour labor charge - and the new cost would be $980 for labor plus $330 for the hose. LOL. I decided to do this myself based on principal. And if one days work equaled a $1,000 dollars plus in my pocket = those are not bad wages. This vid was one of the better ones I've seen. Probably the best - cheers. I do not have a lift and did this on the street. Pulled up in front of the driveway enough to be able to access the passenger wheel well without the curb obstruction. After all the vids - my biggest fear was accessing the fittings at the rack from the top. So the previous weekend - I took off the air box off (this is huge and a must to make things easier on you) for EASIER ACCESS LIKE YOU MENTIONED - to see if I could get a wrench on the fitting. Tried the crows foot like another vid - no thanks - pain. I got after it yesterday - no lift so jack stands. Passenger tire off. Since I already knew I could access the fittings at the rack - I started at the bottom - because of no lift - I rolled under the truck on a flat creeper and had a somewhat view of where I needed to get to the 10mm nut (you cannot see it) - but can feel it with your hand - by the drive shaft. Here is the thing - this was the biggest challenge - especially without a lift and on your back. If you do not have a 10mm open box ratcheting wrench - get one as I could not imagine getting a wrench on there and - again and again after every turn. This took approximately 30 to 40 minutes as it took some time to get it on the nut as access is tight especially laying down and the right shoulder muscle and neck muscles would just eventually start to get super sore trying to get the wrench on the nut. Important note - once you get it on - try as hard as you can to just continue to unscrew. Rest or whatever you need to do to not have the wrench come off. Wrench came off twice as I though I could do the rest with my fingers. No go, The wrench needs to be on there till it comes all the way out - 3 times in total and if you think getting the wrench back on because you did it before will be easier. Put your patience cap on and try, and try, and again, again, again - NO BS - this was the hardest part of the job. The 10mm one close to the wheel was easy in comparison - like you said 1/4 drive small ratchet with 10mm head is perfect and easy to get to in comparison to the previous pain. The connector was harder and I accidently disconnected another connector that was on the steering rack. Which btw was a nightmare to re connect later. With the airbox gone - the fittings at the rack were not bad. You just have to dive in (literally speaking) a 17 wrench did the trick taking off the return line (just like you stated) in order to access the 19mm high pressure fitting behind. This is time consuming but having seen this vid - it actually was not that bad. As I knew to be patient. I also lined the top of the engine with a few blankets and even a swimming noodle so that the hood latch would not be stabbing me in the stomach or leg. This was a huge help. No extension bars were necessary. The access without the airbox was enough to just use a standard 17 and 19 - not shorty's but not long ones as well. I did not have a 19 - so a home depot basic 19mm worked. I was planning on cutting the round part of the end off with sawzall to get a pipe on it. But glad I did not. It came loose just fine without an extension bar/pipe. The hose came out easier sideways through the wheel well like you did. The new one however went in through the top without much issue. Getting the new fitting on at the rack took a little time and patience as you have to line it up just right - this will remind you of the patience cap - and this is due to you already being hours into the job and you can smell victory - but the alignment has to be just right and this will test you if you re tired or impatient - I was both at this point - maybe 4 to 5 tries and about 20 minutes. The return line proved tougher to line up just right. But with some perseverance it finally went on - 8 tries or so. The biggest issue was trying to get the 10mm stuff back on from the bottom. F that without a lift. Zip ties to the rescue. Thanks again for posting this - it gave me the confidence to knock it out, With my buddies wholesale discount. The parts cost me $100. And despite this being somewhat of a pain. Totally doable if you do not get pissed and continue at it. $100 instead of $1,500. And a lesson of just how much dealers hose unsuspecting people. Thanks again mate.

[@gregs_garage]

Thanks that’s a great comment filled with important information. This is beyond most DIY so $1500 isn’t crazy. Amazing to do it on the road! I have a lift and still used a few zip ties to be honest. No problem the point is to keep the line held in place. So far mine is not leaking - Hope the aftermarket one lasts!

[@spookerz35]

I finished doing this job on my 2004 Pilot today. I have about 7 hours into the ordeal, but not all at once - plus some of that time was spent on fixing mistakes. Working on a 20 year old vehicle can be a challenge, especially when there's rust, dirt, and old p/s fluid everywhere around the engine. The bracket underneath was the hardest part for me, and I managed to get the bolt out with a 10mm ratcheting box wrench. Getting the flare nut out was not bad since i cut the line. I found that tightening it was harder. Fishing the new hose in by myself was also tough, but I tied a piece of wire onto the end and pulled it though. The one thing I regret not doing was removing the air box. That may have saved some time and given me better access. This is probably the most difficult thing I have done to repair anytime on my vehicles. Patience and maintaining your composure is key.

[@robertfurmanski5512]

@@spookerz35 indeed - the airbox removal was key - and I wrote it backwards - the challenge was getting to the fittings at the rack not at the pump. I edited my initial experience so others will not think that it's harder at the pump and not he rack. Well done. 8 months later and now I have a leak an oil leak - have not had time to see if oil sensor - not trying t replace a rear seal myself if that is the culprit.

[@clinte14]

A couple hints for future readers (I just did this job): 1) cut the old power steering line near the flare nut at the rack and pinion, then a deep 14mm socket can be smacked on and used rather than a flair wrench/crows foot to remove. 2) Remove the hose and fitting for the return line at the rack and pinion allows room to swing a flair wrench (or crows foot) to tighten the new high pressure line. Also, I fought it too long: just remove the air snorkel and throttle, coolant lines can stay attached just let it hang.

[@stevetilbrook3402]

Cutting that line for a 14 is a good idea.. I will ficken do that..

[@ZONER4201]

Bro I'm currently doing this. Crows foot line wrench, nothing moving, gonna do this tomorrow thanks. Great idea.

[@stevetilbrook3402]

@@ZONER4201 make sure you put a new pressure switch on the PS line, I didn't and it leaked there you don't need that.

[@spookerz35]

I just got done with this ordeal on my 2004 Pilot. Cut the line and use a 6 point socket. I did not remove that return line fitting in front of the flare nut, but wish I did.

[@MinnesotaM]

I just finished this Job - 6.5 hour job over 2 days including the time to run to Home Depot. (you need a 17 and 19 MM wrench) I could probably do it in 3 hours now. This video is great help...However these are things I wish I knew as well. Watch the video First and then add this info to your plan. Again carefully watch the whole video IT will save you time in the end. Don't skim! MOST IMPORTANT - Don't buy the cheapest new steering hose. I did and it cause me hours of frustration because it was kinked. Here is the thing you need to make sure about your new hose. Look at the Rack end of the new hose. The last 4 inches should be perfectly straight, and the nut/fitting should spin freely. Mine was kinked slightly and the nut turned but lightly grabbed. Cause me hell and probably an hour and half when trying to get it threaded correctly. 1) If you have smaller hands, you can do this from the top. DO THE FOLLOWING to remove the hose a) Remove the Air Intake hose. b) Use two thick moving blankets folded into 4 layers so 8 layers total and lay on top of engine - protects you and make more comfortable. c) Remove the return line with a 17mm wrench. I did not do this originally...I ended up having to later. Should have done it from the beginning...would have save me LOTS OF TIME AND FRUSTRATION. DO IT First. d) Use a cutting tool and cut the hose right by the Rack fitting. I used an Oscillating Muti-Tool, it cut the line in 2 seconds. Then I used 19MM socket to easily remove the fitting from the Rack. You can use a 19mm wrench...but is a waste of time 2) Follow the direction from the rest of the video to remove the rest of the hose. If you cannot get the 10mm bolts holding the line on the bottom. Cut them with a Multi-tool. I did get the 10mm nuts off but was never able to reuse them. I ended up zip tying. Save your frustration and cut them loose if they don't come off easy. 3) I did take the passenger tire off and pulled the hose out the side. I reinstalled from there as well. 4) IMPORTANT WHEN RE INSTALLING. - push the new hose in from the passenger tire SIDE DO NOT THREAD THE OTHER END OF THE HOSE UP TO THE PUMP YET. YOU WANT THE PIPE TO BE "FLEXABLE" TO HELP YOU LINE UP THE RACK FITTING. 5) GET A HELPER FOR THIS PART! with someone holding the hose by the passenger tire have them help you push and wiggle the hose, so it lines up with the rack. As you work from the top with a 19mm wrench or with your fingers tighten the fitting into the rack. Having the helper make sure there is no binding on the fitting hopefully will make it easy to get the fitting thread started. FYI Mine was more than 8 rotations. 6 wrench turns per rotation - more than 48 wrench turns. Be patient or take a break. 6) Attaching the return line for me was easy - just took a little time as you again had more than 50 wrench turns. 7) follow the directions from the video to attach the pump side, secure the hose, attach electrical connector. I hope this helps some of you. These are things I would have wanted to know in addition to the video. ~Mark

[@gregs_garage]

What a great commentary.

[@spookerz35]

I just finished this today and wished I saw your comment before I started!! Would have saved me some time and aggravation. I watched 2 other vids, but didn't see this one until today - AFTER I finished the job!! I feel like I just joined a special exclusive club or something, this was a beyotch to do.

[@MinnesotaM]

@@spookerz35 You did join a special club. That club should take the engineer who designed the entire car around that hose (because it must be the most important part on the whole car) behind the woodshed for a little talk. He needs to understand that he should never ever do that again! It is 6 days later, and I still have a ring of bruises around my upper arm. I do have to say this was one of the hardest/frustrating car jobs that I have done. At least as far as those that actually worked in the end :)

[@grandkaktus1608]

I did this today and I want to mention, if you don’t have a lift, you can access the 10mm mount screw that’s above the drive shaft through the engine bay. Need a small handled tool with a socket but way better than laying with your back on the concrete trying to reach your arms up the entire time.

[@grandkaktus1608]

THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO

[@patrickobrien3633]

This was helpful. I was doing this while replacing the Rack. I opted to start the threads on that line while the rack was hanging out of the left side of the car. Still a GIANT PIA. I can't imagine how long it would take to NOT cross thread this SOB doing it from the top. I'd almost just disconnect the tie rods, lower the subframe and slide the dang rack out if I had to do it again. God bless anyone doing it from the top. 100 Timing belts would be far easier.

[@lakay-dg2dt]

thanks for the more detailed in fo

[@Mezmar165]

Thanks for making the video---I've been trying to wrap my head around the idea of tackling it myself, As much as a PIA as you and others have realistically pointed out---it would seem that with hours of effort and frustration that it is ultimately possible to do this.... BTW--I was impressed at how clean your 15 year Pilot is maintained, not to mention your garage.

[@gregs_garage]

Thanks. Don’t be afraid to use some zip ties if your can’t get a bracket bolt back in place. 2 years later my zip ties are fine at holding the line in place.

[@Mezmar165]

@@gregs_garage Well, I'm happy to say that although every bit as tedious as you and others have said it is, I managed to get the old hose off and the new one on. Took me a very patient hour and a half to get the new end to thread into the steering rack--I was quite apprehensive about not getting it cross-threaded. It's in properly and tightened down. I did remove the low pressure line from the steering rack to better access the 14mm high pressure line nut. Something that was extremely frustrating is that the new line, a Duralast purchased from AutoZone, uses a 5/8" nut instead of a 14mm!! Took a bit of extra time to figure that one out. I fed the old line out and the new one in as you did through the passenger side wheel well. That worked very well! I still need to put the hose clamps back on tomorrow--didn't start on this until mid afternoon.... Nice to know I can fall back on zip ties if I can't get them. I have to agree with many of the comments--I have done a good half dozen timing belts over the years on a few different cars and I think that they are far easier than this project. Your video gave me the courage and the patience to give it a go, and I thank you again for that. You have a new subscriber--🙂

[@gregs_garage]

@@Mezmar165 that was quick!

[@drewrobinson36]

Paid 250 get this fix but after seeing this I think it’s money we’ll spent

[@gregs_garage]

Yes 250 is good. Depends if you like doing this type of work. If not pay someone. I like doing it.

[@PokeT-Rave]

Zip ties ftw lol. Good video I like that you keep it real. It's not an easy job but not impossible. I will attempt this tomorrow on my '07 Pilot.

[@gregs_garage]

Keep it real. As it actually happened

[@dinamat5963]

Ji great video to get me prepared , im planing to do it in a week or so on my 2006 Ridgeline as soon my parts come in. I have the 2 post Hofman hoist i traded in 20 years ago from my friend mechanic that moved to Alberta. Which was a best move i made. It will deffinetly help doing this job.

[@gregs_garage]

Hoists are worth their weight in gold.

[@mattanderson5308]

Can concur, just did mine and it was a pain to get the High pressure end off, bolt started to strip so I cut the end and used a box end wrench and it came off. Good luck to those looking to do it.

[@gregs_garage]

good luck is right. My aftermarket replacement is still nice and dry and it better stay that way.

[@Projectchasingthewild]

Thank you for this video...i will be replacing my line on a 07 ridgrline...i wish I had a lift tho

[@gregs_garage]

Good luck. Not fun

[@dustin3700]

Cut the lines near the rack end of line and use a socket especially if its at all rusty.

[@kylethesquidkid3699]

Seems like other people have had the most difficulty with the flare nut fitting at the rack - either getting it off or getting the new one to thread. I had trouble getting the old one loose but finally got it off. The hardest part I've encountered is actually feeding the hose around the firewall/sway bar/return line. I've gone at it from every angle I could think of and it simply is too long and has so many kinks that it feels impossible. I started to cut off the middle bracket that's attached to the return line with a little plastic clip because every time I push the hose inward, it gets caught on that and then there's no way to feed it towards the rack. Hoping to finally get it lined up tomorrow. Any tips for how to feed the line into place? All the videos and forums I've looked at seem to make little mention of it at all which leads me to think it shouldn't be that difficult. This is by far the most aggravating procedure I've done on my Pilot.

[@gregs_garage]

yes it is tough. I fed mine through the wheel opening and don't recall getting hung up on anything. The Pilot may be different. If you have to change some brackets that are in the way go for it. Zip ties can be used to supplement. I have a few zip ties on mine now and it's fine.

[@kylethesquidkid3699]

@@leezcreed1928 I eventually crammed the line in by lowering the bolt on the rear engine mount (it only gave a few more millimeters of space) and I forced the line down from the top in between the firewall and lower subframe. I cut out the rubber supports and brackets that held the original line in place to allow for more flexibility. You can use plastic or metal zipties after, which I used metal ones. I also had to bend the line somewhat in order to make it fit right. Once I got it lined up well enough it was also pretty difficult to get it threaded into the rack. If you haven't yet you can disconnect the rubber return rose where it inserts into the rack to allow it to move some more. The way I have the line now isn't in the same position of the original line but as long as it doesn't get in the way of anything that moves I imagine it shouldn't be a problem. It's been working for me for two months, good luck.

[@johnperez93640]

Id like to talk to the designers of these vehicles and have a few words with them followed with some questions.

[@gregs_garage]

it ain't easy. Not meant for replacement I guess.

[@Tyto451]

6:57 How do you get it out of the rubber mount? It’s connected to another hose that I don’t want to remove

[@gregs_garage]

If you remove the bolt does it slide out?

[@v7poistblaznei]

I just did this on my 06 Pilot..........What a nightmare.You knew long skinny arms to access from the top......and good access from the. bottom. I would not do it again BTW.

[@gregs_garage]

Even with a lift it is hard. I have a ‘13 odyssey that I wonder about…. So far a dry hose.

[@bradmacdowell6583]

GREAT video. I'm doing this job on my Ridgeline tomorrow, not looking forward to it. I've enlisted some help regarding threading the pressure line back into the steering rack. I'm thinking if I have someone in the passenger wheel well stabilizing and moving the line around while I'm in laying on the engine trying to get the threads started it may take a little frustration out of it. I saw one comment somewhere but I can't remember where, they mentioned using the crows foot at the end of like 2-3 feet of extensions to avoid having to do the 1/16th turn at a time with a wrench for the fitting at the rack. Plausible or no? It seemed like a good idea reading it but now seeing your video I'm having doubts.

[@gregs_garage]

Did you do it? I'm not sure someone in the wheel well could reach the line to help. I tried a crows foot but couldn't find enough room to make it work. The open end wrench worked fine - just slow and painful lying on top of that motor for so long. Take breaks.

[@bradmacdowell6583]

@Greg's Garage I did it this past weekend. Overall the job wasn't too bad, having long skinny arms definitely helps. I did the pressure line and the return hose that runs right next to it. My truck has 280k northern New England miles on it so I always prepare for stuff to be rusted or fasteners to be frozen so I bought the return line knowing that if I removed it for better access to the fittings on the rack, it probably wasn't going back on. And that was the case, it was so cold worked onto the fitting that I ended up cutting the rubber hose with an oscillating tool. It worked well enough besides the fact that I nicked the hard line that runs from the rack gear box to the passenger side of the rack. One of the really small lines underneath the supply and return lines. So now I fixed the original leak and created another one. Honda doesn't have a part number for this hard line on the rack so I'm either going to have to bend my own line, find a junkyard that has a rack I could take the line off of, or patch it with some two part epoxy of some sort, which I doubt will work. I'm not going to drop and replace the rack for one pinhole, it's just not worth it.

[@gregs_garage]

@@bradmacdowell6583 the joys of DIY. sleeve a piece of fuel line onto the leak and clamp it on the pinhole?

[@bradmacdowell6583]

@Greg's Garage Something like that. I'm thinking some JB weld, let it cure and slip a section of rubber line over it and hose clamp it down

[@jamesparlane9289]

Intake pipes or intake Ho's?

[@mitchell2024]

I’m doing this job right now. Oh man is it terrible. The hardest part is getting it thread on! I’ve spent like 3-4 hours trying to get it to thread on but it just won’t go. Wondering if I need to get a OEM part instead 😞

[@gregs_garage]

No I did not have OEM. I used a cheap aftermarket hose. Take a break and try again

[@mitchell2024]

How were you able to get the thread to catch? Did you have to apply alot of pressure or is it just an angle? Ive tried bending the pipe alittle and aplied pressure. It just wont catch.@@gregs_garage

[@gregs_garage]

Maybe threads on rack are slightly damaged. should be all about the angle. Maybe do that attachment first so you can move it around? @@mitchell2024

[@mitchell2024]

@@gregs_garage Did removing the front line help with installing? I really hope i didnt damage the thread. I wouldnt know what to then. I am going to give it another attempt today. On the verge of taking it to the shop. They quoted me $800 so im really not trying to do that.

[@gregs_garage]

I don't think I removed that front line in the end. I changed my mind and was able to reach the back line with a open-end wrench. But removing it would give more room. Worth a try. Move the angle around you probably aren't quite straight even though it looks like it from above. @@mitchell2024

[@pd4nfl8785]

Did you use a OEM replacement hose or a replica of?

[@gregs_garage]

Aftermarket

[@lamardancy192]

Best video 📹 👌

[@paxonearth]

Yikes! This may be a bit above my skill level. After my power steering failed last week and sprayed fluid all around my engine, I decided to replace the whole assembly- power steering pump, reservoir, serpentine belt, AND this high pressure hose. Unfortunately, I'm NOT a mechanic. Plus, I was unable to determine exactly where the fluid was coming from, so I think I'm going to take a chance and just leave the hose that's on there and hope that the system failed somewhere else.

[@gregs_garage]

no reason to replace everything. fix the failure.

[@paxonearth]

@@gregs_garage After a more thorough examination, the high pressure hose, reservoir, and belt looked all seemed intact to me, so I ended up just replacing the pump and the O ring for the high pressure hose. It survived a 3 mile drive, so fingers crossed...

[@luccib7225]

How you wash the motor off

[@gregs_garage]

soap and water

[@ashinch0r]

Yeah Honda doesn't actually refine oil or manufacture their fluids, they contract it and the manufacturers have varied over the years. The statements that only Honda fluids will work and not damage components is totally false. All oils and fluids have required specifications and you only need to match that, not the Honda name.

[@gregs_garage]

No claim that Honda makes fluid. Of course they contract it out. Honda brand will have the right specs. there are also aftermarket fluids made for Honda steering and other components. They may work but aren’t any cheaper so why bother? If you Put generic p/s fluid (atf) in a Honda rack you will destroy it.

[@14TacomaDR]

I need this hose replaced called Honda Canada they want $443.00 for it !!!! or $150 at a parts store .crazy

[@gregs_garage]

They are available for less than $50. BTW, the cost of the hose is nothing compared to the installation.

[@YotieKiller1]

Ugh.... looking at doing this as well. Calgon take me away!

[@gregs_garage]

It’s not much fun. And I have a lift. I cannot imagine doing it on the ground

[@need2burn]

@@gregs_garage Do you think it could be done on ramps? The local dealership and mechanics want like $1500 which I think is just crazy.

[@gregs_garage]

@@need2burn yes it can be done. $1500 isnt crazy it's a big pain in the azz!