Lifeboat Conversion Ep32: Change of plan for protecting hull fittings, and other new additions [4K]

[@Clubman99]

I closed my eyes and felt it on the screen, great job, really smooth.

[@joelmartin2549]

Wow you are right!

[@rhydtuned]

The dry humour/sarcasm throughout your videos is Oscar-worthy

[@cuzinevil1]

It was a privilege to be a part of that moment, keep them coming.

[@kameljoe21]

I come for the comedy and Alan and stayed for the wicked thrasher at the end!

[@martinrichardson5253]

great to see the progress you are making well done alex

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Cheers

[@michaelyoung7261]

Alan is growing up so fast! *sniff* finally old enough to swing a blade with wild abandon without much supervision!

[@juanaq]

for a brief moment i've imagined a pedal powered Alan.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Currently recruiting volunteers. Unpaid. No particular prestige.

[@jbprospector3638]

Always enjoy what is happening with Alan I really enjoy your video and content 👍😎

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Very kind

[@timerickson7056]

really like the rope cutting anode

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

From a distance.

[@dcallan812]

Well worth staying right until the end to see the medieval knife thinging.spinning could do some propper damage at full spin. 😱🤣 👍👍

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Correct answer

[@VinceW187]

Good episode plenty of grinder action

[@freddinkins6147]

You were ment to only half tighten those screws if you wanted your medieval device to decapitate someone🤪 love the channel bud! keep up the good work!

[@maphewification]

Another great video… just a constructive comment…. Did you clean the prop shaft before the anode was fitted, light rubbing with a scotch pad by hand will do the trick, as in essence it is an electrical connection (speaking from experience of fitting anode to a dirty stern drive)

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

You know what, I didn't. I'll do a continuity test with a multimeter.

[@maphewification]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals it’ll probably be ok but the better the connection the better the anode will do it’s job 👍

[@ClipperDays]

Remove it and clean up the shaft with emery cloth. It (should) only take a few minutes to do the job right.

[@bigiron4018]

Those flap disks absolutely rip through material with great control, I rarely find myself using the old grinding disks. So I’ve found the same results as you. But I’m no career metalworker.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

You're right. They have no business removing material so easily and so quickly!

[@danreed7889]

Alan !

[@teeanahera8949]

The anode bike sprocket look alike might fulfil two of three functions. Pedal powered Alan and stray rope cutter or pedal power and stray rope collector. Perhaps you could indulge us with a demo of the decapitation device’s abilities in a future, on water, video. Many thanks.

[@RandomNooby]

More inspirational stuff...

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Cheers

[@gilesgander155]

Alan, tell Alex to put a thread locker of some sort on your prop-shaft thingy

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I think these are supposed to 'lock' through the tightly torqued bolts compressing the softer zinc, but I'll check with the supplier.

[@freshPrinceOfBelfairs]

Can we get an overview on the galley and what you plan to eat on your voyage please Alex?

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

I'll add it to the list. Not too elaborate at present.....

[@HDSME]

Alex I hope you used a good engine flush ! Remove oxidation on the inside of the engine I worked HVAC many yrs and there is a redish acid we use to clean copper nickel Just mix it and brush it on and flush through enige the fouling factor i believe is .05 they will be bright and shiny inside and out and run sooo much cooler making more power Do use the bukh. thermistat! not after market can save you alot of greif ! More important then you think also i would make a semi circular stainless cover for the out side tubes .! Great vedio. CHEERS TOny

[@markjlewis]

One day Alex is going to crack a joke that the rest of the World apart from his KZbin followers will get as well. Until then I'll enjoy his jokes and comments with delight.

[@Easy-Eight]

For some reason *Alan* reminds me of a giant red ocean going *Twinkie* .

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Alan elicits the strangest things in people.

[@MCallsen]

As usually a day late, but in no means less impressed :) (YT still thinks 24-36h late is early enough for me)

[@romolo484]

Great job! But why didn't you remove the pipe? Instead of mixing materials into the hull?

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

The damage to the area surrounding the fittings, and the space needed to do a full glass repair, plus access on the inside to the area, meant I chose this option. The fittings are very well bedded in, and have internal seals too.

[@pontuswendt2486]

AMAZINGNES!!!

[@prometheusboat]

@3:18 Waterproof, but will it be salt water resistant also?

[@prometheusboat]

...but of course the fibreglass will provide extra protection. Should have commented after watching the whole video 🙄

[@beakyturbot]

I'm afraid I'm going to have to declare that a bodge. See the latest Sailing Magic Carpet to see it done properly. Sorry; still loving the videos though.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

If you skip back a few episodes you'll see me use the 'graduated discs of fibreglass' hull repair technique, as they use on their channel. I've considered a massive effort cutting the whole things out, and making substantial holes in the boat that need to be structurally repaired. However, the fittings are well bedded and robust, and there's no reason I can see to not flatten and 'over-laminate' them.

[@JonMadsen70]

:)

[@sarkybugger5009]

There was nothing wrong with the grinding disk. In the words of The Almighty Steve Jobs, "You're holding it wrong!" Grind with the face, not the edge. That's why the disks are so thick...

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

That's where the bit about angles comes in - it wasn't possible to get the right angle whilst not damaging the surrounding material and fittings. Also, you lose visibility over the angle being held against the metal. I promise, I tried all options. The final try was to use the edge of the grinding block.

[@ClipperDays]

Sorry, but you really should completely remove the through hull fitting and properly fair and glass up the area. The"patch may bond to the existing fiberglass but it will not adequately bond to the stainless steel. I would not do that repair to my boat, and would certainly never do it to a boat that will eventually be hundreds, if not more miles from assistance. Other than that, good work. 👍

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Yes I've given it a good deal of thought. You'll have seen me do a multilayer fibreglass dent repair to the hull in a past episode, using the accepted method. Here I've assessed the quality of the steel fitting and it's bedding, the quantity of material that would need to be removed, affecting the shell's inherent strength, and taken into account how flush the repair will be. The initial dome method was rejected, but on balance I'm comfortable with this. Consider also that the internal seals (robust screw fit seals) are still in place, and were previously the only means of stopping water ingress.

[@ThaJay]

I think this is fine and it's 1000x better than placing some pre fab part over it with lots of air trapped in between. Now it will become one with the rest of the boat as long as there's enough overlap and thickness and a lack of trapped air bubbles. Although air bubbles won't really matter that much here because the fiber glass will not experience heat or flex, so it's only for preventing weak spots on impact with something.

[@neil1150]

You could have at least tried the cutter out 😛

[@Jehty_]

Exactly. How do we know that it will cut through nets if we don't see it shred a piece of wood to pieces.

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

Good points moderately well expressed.

[@neil1150]

@@AlexHibbertOriginals A moderate test will suffice 😅

[@crestedtern1390]

Please limit humour where possible, seriously approaching comedy.

[@ThePorridgeGobbler]

You gash barsteward. 🤣

[@AlexHibbertOriginals]

This sort of charm is why I persevere.