Lighting Walthers Passenger Cars

[@frankdingle9920]

Fantastic tutorial on lighting the passenger carriages. I'm 67 and just now began my journey into model trains

[@frankrowland63]

I looked at a lot of videos for this and this is by far the best explanation on how to do this lighting set up

[@seank97]

I suggest using 2 wire JST connectors to facilitate mounting under the roof and connecting to the chassis. Makes servicing easier also. Great video, thanks

[@deshkumar9]

Nicely done and explained. Got an inspiration for adding lights on my walthers coaches. I think my coaches does not have contacts on the wheels for getting current but I am going to use my brains for how to put them in place. Many thanks !!!

[@w.rustylane5650]

I do my lighting almost the same way as you do except I use a larger capacitor, 3300uF. I've even made my own wheel pickups, but I've found another product which is really easy to add to a model coach. Those are ESU current collectors, part #50707. The trick is to cut them apart and use one for each wheel, remembering to make sure the insulated wheels are opposite each other. They mount right on the trucks. I've already gotten a couple of packs, as each pack will do 8 axles. I got mine from Litchfield Station for $8.95 + $4.00 shipping which is pretty darn cheap. I lit up an old REA (Railway Express Agency) coach and made my own wheel pickups out of some thin copper I salvaged from an old computer. I should have gotten the warm white LED strips but instead I got bright white which were a little too white for my liking. So, I painted each LED with some yellow acrylic paint and it toned down the light to look more period correct for the era I model which is the Central of Georgia railroad. I do only DC as I hate the sound of HO DCC. Cheers from an old modeler (72) in eastern TN

[@nicholasjohnson6133]

Thanks for the good explanation. I have a few superliners that I have wanted to light but since walthers discontinued those lighting sets the ones that are online are expensive.

[@christophermondone6864]

Great job well done.

[@GoViaorgohome]

I love the newer walthers cars. They run really well. I wonder if they have the pickups on the inside as well. Always love to see the via sets.

[@markmatteo2417]

Those are nice clamps.

[@chuchuchip]

I find Walthers expensive, "a la cart" expensive. Metal wheel power pickup for my car was also additional. I had found a series of Concourse/IHC. cars in D&H paint scheme. 1/2 the price, same quality, no metal wheels. Only mistake was the ends painted wrong, was an easy fix (Badger paint matched factory paint perfectly) . Added my own LED lighting. Still cheaper & had to add my own hand graps, just ;ike on the Walthers cars. Same simple interior, I added car window tint to obscure the interior.

[@earnhardtfan5101]

What is the amp and volt rating for the bridge rectifier?

[@sinatraroom]

What are the voltage specs on your components. Bridge rectifier, resistor and capacitor

[@JeremyEGuzman]

Complete electrical noobie here, would you be so kind as to list out the components i'd need to do this?

[@northlanderdude]

Those old 932 series Walthers cars are a nice stand in foobie VIA car. Great runners too. If only Walthers had done a proper VIA coach. On the coaches, the vestibule is the front of the car. I don't know why Walthers put in the seats backwards.

[@TinkeringGeek]

I keep hoping Rapido might do some, but that would also put a dent in my model railroad budget $$$$.

[@northlanderdude]

@@TinkeringGeek I hear ya on the budget part lol.

[@JohnFort-x9n]

Could you breakdown of what you used resister/rectifier / bridge correct voltage amp please

[@gmcliff555]

was that Walthers car a Mainline or Proto ?

[@night1204]

good idea - did that in my n scale 5 years ago - works well - i got the 10Ft roll of those leds back then - now they are 3X the price

[@tavismckenzie2679]

So on the walthers cars are all wheels power pick up? Tabs only on one end. Does that mean one truck is pick up?

[@russcole5685]

I found i had to paint the inside of the roof with black paint to stop light bleed.

[@BarryHedger]

What is the values of the resistor and capacitor? I keep trying different values and the lights seem to go out almost instantly, irresoective of what values I use.

[@BarryHedger]

The capacitor seems to be a 470uF 16v and the resistor seems to be either 170ohms or 770ohms. Found by freezing the playback at 10:23 and 10:45 respectively. Picture not great to get an exact value for the resistor. Please be advised resistor is not too clear. Would have been nice for originator to have put values in their write-up about the project.

[@dougwilson4537]

He stated in the video, A 3K resistor (@ 2:50), and a 470uF 16V capacitor (@ 3:35). It is difficult to properly see the resistor coding colours, but I thought some looked like orange brown black, which would be 3,1,0. So it is possible that it was a 3.1K resistor, though usually 2.7K are far more common, if it is salvaged material.

[@russcole5685]

​@@dougwilson4537 I personally used a 4k1 ohm resistor. Just to dull the LEDs I used a little. And the 450uf cap is absolutely plenty

[@hanskesteloo5289]

Hi, I have looked this film many - many times and I can not see what you do with the resistor, so you have a capacitor and a resistor, which end goes to which end? The actual soddering is done outside view, so the result is not clear to mee, I have blown many leds by now, so I am doing something wrong... Greetings from NL Hans

[@BarryHedger]

Capacitor has + and - legs. (Minus shown by strip on body). Connect resistor to + leg by twisting together. Then solder together. Connect other end of resistor to + on light strip and - leg of capacitor to - on light strip. Connect bridge rectifier to other end of capacitor/resistor arrangement observing polarity.

[@thomasmayo5341]

No wheel connected

[@plutoyaldnil4750]

DUDE they are via coaches.......us CANADIAN FOLK dont need lights in our carts as we arent afraid of the dark (or afraid the guy sitting beside us has a bigger gun)