I don’t get why no one knows what these numbers mean

[@thomasjones3508]

It is so refreshing to hear you state that most DIY'ers wont notice the difference in performance and looked at the bigger picture. So many people fanboy out on brands rather than being realistic about the end use.

[@deereboy8400]

Secondary tools are definitely the factor for choosing a brand. But this video title is clickbait...impact drivers are awesome except for hex head barn siding screws where they chip the paint off of the fastener.

[@Jeff-jg7jh]

@@deereboy8400 Oooh, I hate that.

[@BLKMGK4]

Yeah, it's the ecosystem that matters and how quickly the damn battery packs go toes up! One cell dies and the whole pack is toast - that sucks!

[@pete_lind]

Most of my tools are makita , needed new lawn mower and Makita had "40 year in Finland sale", so i picket that and a leaf blower, because that kit had batteries. Framing nailer of mine is Hitachi, old name because they sell so few 21° framing nailers, that kit came with batteries and a drill on top of that . Makita garden shears are too expensive, so i got DeWalt instead and a battery adapter, it does not need much power, so there is no risk with battery adapter. Also laser levels and equipment for those, all type of brands, red and green glasses were same, the cheapest ones for €5 or brand name for €25, exactly same product.

[@joshuajones8455]

Agreed. For me, it was mostly about settling on a battery platform. That said, I'll buy non-dewalt tools as long as I can get a battery adapter.

[@soujrnr]

The advice to buy a combo bundle is excellent! I did that with my Dewalt set and it saved me a good chunk of change. I did the same thing with my routers. I got both a fixed/plunge router with all the bells and whistles included, as well as a palm router for times I don't need the bigger one. It was much cheaper to buy them both together instead of separately. Thanks for the great videos! My wife is out of town for two weeks, so I'm binge watching a bunch of your videos along with a bowl of Rocky Road ice cream!! Have an awesome weekend!

[@biscuittreewoodworks]

So disappointed Jon! You said there were links to all the products in the description. So after the video I checked but for the life of me I could not find an affiliate link to the pasta sauce! My day is ruined and my spaghetti is sauceless!

[@arturoromerojr]

😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@pamelah6431]

Classico is some yummy sauce. They make a good pizza sauce, too!

[@LethalLuggage]

​@@pamelah6431 the funniest part was going "is that classico??" And then him setting it down barcode out so I couldn't confirm

[@TechieTard]

🤣🤣🤣

[@treyhudson73]

You can see it's Classico eventually, but some probably recognized it from the back label. I'm wanting to know what that oven was!

[@AndrewScofield]

What I do with all those bags that come with tools is make 'go bags'. I have all my electrical tools in one bag, when I am working on anything electrical, its all there including spare screws, and wire, etc... no running back and forth. i also have one for plumbing, its so helpful to have it all in one place.

[@AnnoftheNorthernPlains]

Your videos are great, straight to the point, no fluff, and humor inserted as needed LOL ALSO I appreciated that you kept working and showing what you were changing on the dial even while doing the food promo. I know content providers get income from ads that allow them to keep making videos for us viewers so I understand the interruptions here and there but i didn't even have to fast forward here!

[@ryanrank3070]

Something that gets overlooked is 12v vs 18/20v. When I'm working on something, I find myself reaching for my 12v tools more. They provide enough power for 80% of what I do and are notably lighter. For an average, weekend DIYer, I usually say to save a few dollars and get the 12v.

[@Lincolnstww]

I think that’s a really good point I missed!

[@mm9773]

I don’t know: my 12 V drill weighs 1.1 kg, my 18 V drill 1.5 kg - a difference, but it’s not significant unless you use those things all day. But it is smaller, which can be a real advantage. However, I quickly switched from 12 V to 18 V for the reason that is given in the video: I have the same weed whacker and a bunch of other tools that use the same batteries as the drill. Among them a handheld vacuum cleaner, which at 18 V just about sucks enough to make it useful. I’m not unhappy that I’m set up for the 12 V system, but I could probably do without it.

[@AlpineTheHusky]

Also depends very much on how the tool is designed. My Metabo 12V is WAY more powerful than my milwaukee that I bought because someone kept preaching about how great they are ._. TLDR dont buy em. Too expensive for what they provide

[@TheCynicalSquiddly]

Came here to say the exact same thing. I have an M18 drill but have barely touched it since I bought the M12 Fuel drill/driver set. The M18 only comes out these days if I'm using a hole saw or a big masonry bit.

[@zwing300]

I will second that. 12v pocket drill/drivers are the best option for any DIYer or Pro. Cheaper, better ergonomics, plenty of power for mostly any type of project, and safer for the user and the project. I have corded drills and a press for the heavy duty stuff.

[@jacob_krause_official7286]

Bro I needed this like 5 years ago when I started buying my first tools 😭Either way still nice to learn some of this stuff in more detail now. Love you and your videos, keep em coming

[@wdtaut5650]

13:04 This deserves more attention. It's where the combo really shines. Any project with multiple screws to sink will go way easier with the combo. 13:20 If the tool came in a bag, I use the bag. It keeps the tools clean and convenient, easy to carry to the job. The hard cases, though, are really useless. I don't know why. Just harder to put the tools back. I don't use them except one I repurposed to hold my pop rivets and tool.

[@adamdejesus4017]

The combo kits are marketed well during the holidays. You get a choice of one tool, one battery, or two tools, two batteries, at about the same price (for the homeowner brands).

[@wdtaut5650]

@@adamdejesus4017 Yep. That was my first combo: 2 batteries, a driver, a drill, a charger, and the bag, on special for Christmas.

[@jerryedmonds79]

I got regular tool boxes for my cordless tools. I have one with all my drilling/driving tools and one with all my cutting tools, with bits, drills, and blades inside. Charger and batteries ae in another bag. I grab two boxes and one bag and have everything needed to work.

[@thomasjones3508]

... and I feel stupid now.. do you know how many projects I have worked on and kept switching out out the bit?

[@Fatedfilms]

I like the hard cases with certain tools; like your pop rivet case - if the tool needs a bunch of accessories, like a rotary hammer with all your SDS+ or SDS max bits, sanders with all different grit sanding pads, oscillating multi-tool with all of the bits, rotary tool with all of the little Dremel bits. and of course the battery.

[@MrSpleenboy]

The electric clutch drill sounded like a clown car horn when the clutch engaged! 🤣

[@Fatedfilms]

I did not expect that😆😆

[@westhavenor9513]

Those plastic cases mostly end up getting thrown out, but I use the nylon bags for all sorts of things, car tool kits, carry-on air travel, shopping, etc. They're generally super durable.

[@1djbecker]

I never throw out fitted plastic cases. Loose tools take up valuable space jumbled up in my toolbox drawers. Plastic cases are stacked on the shelf, ready to go. The useless cases are the giant nylon bags for combo sets. Unless you have the original cardboard/foam packing, the tools just bang against each other at the bottom of a mostly empty bag.

[@h3lio5]

Ryobi gets a lot of flack but I used a $150 18v drill/driver combo set from them to build out a 800sqft basement, 16x10 shed, 12x12 deck, and build a bunch of furniture. I’ve no complaints

[@richardwang474]

They work quite well. They are just a very ugly color lol. I believe the problem comes where they claim to be budget, yet are not much less than something like a dewalt usually.

[@robbo1415]

Agreed. For me as a non-trade user, Ryobi has served me well.

[@5055hunter]

My 20 y/o blue Ryobi driver is still going strong!

[@ZyklonBeast12]

Ryobi will outwork 90% of consumers needs.

[@GregorDuckman]

Ryobi is like 33% cheaper than DeWalt across Canada so as a DIY/hobby guy they're my absolute go-to

[@RonnieStanley-tc6vi]

Ive worked on industrial machines for most of my life. While working i picked up a trick for drilling and tapping threads in solid steel or sheet metal or whatever. I drill the hole to the proper size. Then, i put the thread tap into the drill and tighten it down. I move the clutch to around 8, then oil the tap and use the drill to tap the hole. If it jams, the clutch wont let it break the tap. Then, you just reverse and repeat until it threads to the proper depth. It sounds stupid, but that one simple thing keeps me from hand threading and saves a ton of time. I have a friend that is an old school machinist. He calls it power tapping.

[@richadent968]

20+ years ago I drove a screw with an impact driver and have never gone back to driving screws with a drill.

[@Mark-l9k9q]

Strange how no one needed an impact driver until 20 years ago. They still don't.

[@mattanderson2074]

@@Mark-l9k9q 30 years ago no one needed a mobile phone. They still don't. 🤣

[@Mark-l9k9q]

@@mattanderson2074 True, and neither impact drivers, nor mobile phones have improved anything.

[@techringo6469]

@@Mark-l9k9q I disagree. I screwed down deck boards all day (about 600 screws) and at the end of the day I practically had to use my left hand to unwrap my fingers from the drill grip. It was a couple of days before I could hold my beer in that hand without any pain. With a drill you have to fight against and counter the torque. The two years later I did another section, twice the size, and just happened to have an impact driver. I didn't really know much about them, but it was available so I decided to give it a try. That new section took me about the same amount of time as the first, smaller section, and had no pain or cramping from holding the tool all day. Saying no one needed them 20 years ago is like saying no one needed a power drill 100 years ago, and they still don't. The whole point of tools is to augment human capabilities. My girlfriend has no trouble helping with home construction projects with the impact driver. If she uses the drill she's good for about 3 minutes and says that's it. Drills can't be beat for drilling but are far inferior to impact drivers for any kind of construction screw.

[@ryanhughes4845]

@richadent968 exactly my experience

[@teunstins3662]

A quick tip for Anyone who has a collection of un used tool cases. Saw out the interior plastic that should hold the tool and you now have a sturdy case for things if you are on a job site or carry tools around. I myself have a case for screws a case for straps and a case for kit. They are nice to have because they are stackable and lock together.

[@Zaiyetz]

One other note on impact drivers: if you work on cars, appliances, etc (anything with bolts that you’d use a socket set and ratchet with), an impact driver is amazing for that.

[@christopherlamoureux8617]

Can confirm

[@rw8147]

Yup, indispensible, especially for zipping out the 35 8mm bolts holding on the engine shields covering the top of your engine.

[@chemistrykrang8065]

Just make sure you're using impacts for undoing fasteners only, use a torque wrench (or the correct size ratchet and feel/experience) for tightening or you'll strip threads and shear bolts.

[@Harrier42861]

​@chemistrykrang8065 THey work fine for zipping on connectors, you just leave a few turns to contact and torque by hand

[@jonmullaly7497]

As car wrenching mechanic I can confirm impact is superior on nuts and bolts... Drills are for drilling

[@timpgod]

I 100% agree with all of this. My only Add is screw choice. I find standard cheap wood screws will snap with an impact driver almost always, whereas almost any other screw wont... My experience, I use my drill to screw in these screws.

[@morgan5941]

I never use the screws that come with products. For example, window blinds. Those screws are not only dull, but they snap even with a normal drill and often cam out easily.

[@ralphhoney5334]

Living in Canada , most people use the Robertson screw head. 'Square' hole and MUCH better at reducing ruining a Screw Head under pressure. Not sure if they are used much in US but maybe you should do a video on the comparison between Phillips Head and Robertson Head screws. Of course almost all drywall screws are Phillips Head but we manage!

[@johnrehwinkel7241]

I learned about Robertson heads building sets in theater. Here in the states, we generally just get square drive, which is similar but avoids some expensive licensing issues. I get mine from McFeelys, good quality stuff. Another advantage is you can just stick the screw on the end of the bit and put it where you want, it'll tend to stay there and not fall off. They also were a minor plot element in the animated film The Mitchells vs The Machines.

[@garbo8962]

Used to stock the Robertson screws but switched over to torx. Cheap sheet rock screws generally are no problem when going into 2 by 4" studs.

[@robertmartin2936]

I use Robertson whenever possible but sourcing bits and screws is more limited here in the states. Big box stores don't like carrying the bits, and the screws will be stocked in bulk but if you ask anyone for the bits they won't know what you're talking about. I see them used a lot in cabinet install, but they aren't very widespread in DIY. We tend to go torx a lot here. All my Robertson have to be direct mail ordered for my area.

[@kb3cxe]

Great video. I just bought a used impact driver for 2$ at a yard sale, and never thought about the fact that every time between the impacts the bit gets a chance to reset. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

[@tamer1773]

He's right about the carrying cases. I just threw away the case for a Makita drill that died over five years ago along witht cases for the Milwaukee and Porter drills I presently use. The only cases I use are ones for the smaller power tools like Dremels.

[@davidholmes4088]

I live in Australia. Your videos are essential in helping me sort stuff out. By not over investing in stuff i do not need.

[@ollie54able]

Wow!Wow! WOW!!! This has been the most comprehensive explanation of the difference of the two tools I've seen, not to mention how to properly use the myriad of settings. Very clear and fully informative. Excellent video Thank you very much!

[@MrWharfrat05]

Bro, you’ve made it. Festool driver, under cabinet microwave and delivery meal plans! Well done man.

[@MrLandslide84]

Lmao right. You can tell when tuber's hit a certain point. Its when those companies approach them.

[@kevinmontgomery1054]

#1) The bag/box keep your tools clean when stored in the garage - no dust, sawdust, spiders, bugs, leaves, etc on the tools. #2) The bag/box keeps all related stuff organized and together. The drill, battery, extra battery, charger, bits, extensions, etc are all together. No hunting or forgetting. Grab the bag and you've got everything you need.

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

Get some Klein toolbags for the accessories. Amazon has different types and sizes that are amazing high quality at a good price. Chuck a couple of silica gel packets in all your bags.

[@givemeanaxe]

The bag/box is for filling with rocks ducttaped together so they feel likenthey are full of tools and batteries. Padlock them closed and leave them accessable so theives looking fkr targets of opportunity geab them first and run hoping to nab a few batteries they can sell. But just get rocks instead.

[@Crayma800]

​@@jamesbarisitz4794the Amazon tool bag (large) is perfect for a drill, 2 batteries and a 50pc bit set. Also, thanks for the tip about the silica gel! Will grab some from work tomorrow!

[@jamesbarisitz4794]

​@Crayma800 Glad to help. 👍

[@taxxzempt3576]

I have a dewalt brushless impact. I’m a professional electrician. The tool lasted me over 7 years of daily use and abuse. Absolutely love impacts and would never even consider swapping with a drill. However I do not use my impact as a drill. Dedicated drill for drilling lol. Use tools as they were intended and they will last forever

[@slowrollout]

So oddly enough I came across this video 3 days after learning the difference between a drill and impact driver needs. My wife got stopped for a brake light not functioning, good thing I was in the car, he gave her warning and we were on our way. We stopped at an auto parts store and picked up the bulbs. I was passing an impact driver and thought " I should get one of those" but not buying it. Watching alot of DIY auto repair channels I noticed the amount of use they get using impact drivers to take off parts. I looked up a video on how to change out the bulb and it seemed simple 2 bolts remove the unit, unplug the bulb, swap in new bulb, put back together. I needed an attachment for my 10MM socket, thinking I could use my drill. The woman in the video used an impact driver, and she was very specific about using an impact driver. I drove over to home depot and bought a set of 3/8, 1/4, 1/2 inch hex bit adapters by Milwaukee. I went home and used my drill on low speed, low torque. It didnt work. I tried a socket wrench it didnt work. I tried an extension handles driver, it didnt work. Most hardware stores dont keep 10MM hex head driver bits in stock, you have order them online. So back to Home Depot. Now I understood the reason she prefaced impact driver with 10MM socket to remove the bolts. Thankfully Home Depot had a Milwaukee 18Volt cordless impact driver on sale for Black Friday $100 off. I bought it , took it home threw the battery on the charger, and hour later it was charged. I went outside flashlight in hand, headlamp on, as it was now dark out. Impact driver with rated extention hex adapters (1/4") and a 10mm socket. It took 2 minutes to fix. The driver unscrewed those 2 bolts out in seconds. Thats how I learned the differences and usefullness of owning an impact driver.😅

[@ronjones4069]

The best video covering this. Perfect advice for the hobbiest. You have it right.... if you are a hobbiest you will never see the difference between the big name brands. Excellent advice, get a name brand that has lots of tools you may want in the future and stick with it to save a ton of money on batteries. Great video.

[@BoDiddlydodah]

That m12 driver w modes essentially sloves the one issue you've pointed out with using a driver instead of a drill (too much power and the risk of shearing screw heads). With it's ability to power through or operate with finesse, in my opinion it is absolutely the best choice for either purpose. Before this brilliant product came out, a separate drill was a must. Since it's introduction, my drill collects dust. There is a learning curve to the modes and their proper implementation, but once you got it figured out there's no looking back.

[@mcoguyaj]

Thanks for the lesson and I'm 62 and I always thought the numbers were the speed. Now I know. I have to say I had my Black and Decker battery drill for at least 15 years and I finally wanted an impact driver because as I get older I no longer can afford a mechanic and have been working on my Truck myself. Since I don't use these everyday but I bought the combo drill and impact driver with the battery included for 89.00 at Harbor Freight the brand name is Bauer both work great have had no issues and have had them for a while now. I thought for 89.00 bucks if they break after I use them oh well my bad and go spend 250 to 300 at the Home Depot I'm so glad I tried the Bauer first.

[@J4Julz]

Buy a paired set of drill and impact. Simple! I bought my 18v Milwaukee set 10 yrs ago (to replace a Milwaukee drill in the 14.4 format), that came with battery charger and bits for each style, smooth and impact rated. Makes a nice gift!

[@jeffwilder7117]

Bought my first cordless drill in 1982, Skill 12 volt. Working as an electrician it was a huge help for a number of tasks. The first night I read the instructions to familiarize myself with it as I hadn’t heard of them before. I immediately understood the concept of the clutching. Another commenter said the impact isn’t as good as a drill. I found this comment to be wrong. After buying the Ridgid combo set, drill driver/impact, while building a barn, the impact was much easier driving 4” screws all day long. After retiring I worked as a cabinet builder for a number of years. The drill driver was much more suited to driving pocket hole screws than the impact. These are just some observations of my own with repeated use of both in building construction and woodworking. I like the Ridgid brand best as I’ve used a number of different brands over my lifetime. Ridgid performs very well and when registered you get free batteries for life! A huge bonus!

[@thestinkydwarf]

Dad was a Makita man, so I am all about the Makita power tools - he has Makita power tools over 30 yrs old and he was in the trades...took care of them and they looked after him

[@jonathanlee7355]

Great information! My 1st cordless drill was a porter cable. I bought it cuz it had high torque. Served me well for a good 10 years until batteries died and new ones became too expensive. Ended up buying Bauer brand that has the hammer feature from harbor freight. I'm a DIYer and don't need anything too fancy and that's exactly that. Only issue is if driving a long screw or something is torque heavy, it's cuts out like if it overheats or something.

[@stroys7061]

I’ve been using the same cordless drill and driver set (Milwaukee) for over 10 years. I was looking to buy just a cordless drill when an associate at Home Depo suggested I buy the combo kit with an impact driver. He said I’d end up using the impact driver way more than the drill. He was right. Since then I added the oscillating tool. I use heck out of all three but the impact driver is the most used power tool I own.

[@MichaelDawson03]

This is a fantastic introduction to Drill's and Drivers that will serve any newbie well. My biggest advice is choose a battery platform and stick with it. All my battery tools are Milwaukee. When it comes to corded tools, I am not a brand snob.

[@brian1204]

DIYer here; never used an impact driver, and my current drill has a clutch but no other settings. I’m guessing it is all “drill mode”. I use the Mechanic brand which works great for me. The combo kit seems great to me since I’ve spent way too much time trading out bits for drivers! For yard tools I use EGO electrics.

[@BitsOfEternity]

Pro tip, turn the pasta sauce jar, instead of twisting the lid. When twisting the lid, one uses the small muscles between the fingers, but when twisting the jar, one can lock the hand that holds the lid, while using the wrist to turn the jar. You're welcome.

[@BayaniPena]

Thank you very much for the explanation. Now I understand both tools, and its functions. Its been a while I know one is for penetration, and the other for rotation. But your visual example helps me understand better. Thank you!

[@hansangb]

@13:00 The time saved by having a dedicated drill for piiot holes+counter sinking and a driver for the screws is an oft underrated luxury. Like having a dedicated palm router with a round over bit or having a GlueBot. 😂.

[@mm9773]

This is mostly about convenience, not time. Sometimes I end up having to switch a lot instead of being able to drill all the holes first, and while I don’t really care if it takes 30 minutes or 38, it’s really annoying,

[@mr.upcycle9589]

​@@mm9773Time is money on a jobsite. Having both at hand saves time, which of course is more convenient.

[@MikeKunkel]

I spent 10+ years working professionally as a woodworker. I absolutely will not ever go without a 1/4" impact driver ever again. I literally only use a drill for drilling holes, and I only drill pilot holes when necessary. I already have my setup, but for most household use, I would definitely buy a 1/4" impact driver before I bought a drill, but I find that household uses call for driving screws far more often than drilling holes.

[@justinmcgrath753]

I kept the cases for my drill and driver for years because I similarly couldn't bring myself to get rid of them. Two years ago I gave both cases away and haven't missed them even the slightest bit. I enjoy the extra space.

[@TheGraffiti600rr]

I've used drivers and drills, have both on the kitchen table as I type this (I'll move them before wife gets home) and from cars to home, I've used my impact 95% in comparison. Drills have a specific job... not sure what that is yet, but my impact hasn't let me down once.

[@tomforward990]

30 year pro renovation contractor. I have been on multiple platforms. Milwaukee,Dewalt, and Makita. Makita takes the cake for durability in my experience. Battery tech is lacking a bit but other than that they hold up.

[@saeklin]

If you get an impact driver, make sure the collar is a simple "push in to lock" operation. Some require you to pull the collar while inserting the bit and it gets old real fast.

[@paddymalky1979]

My makita 18v 1.3 amh batteries have gone after 16 years use, served me well building everything in house and garden. Just picked up a new makita 18v 2.0 amh drill driver set for £150. Hoping another happy 10+years building stuff. Retired my old set to use doing basic tasks at work ( wee drilling screwing jobs that dont need much power or torque). Dont have the heart to chuck out the cases tho.

[@DrNickBailey]

Really superb video - I've had both for a year or so and this has been very helpful in furthering my knowledge of how to best use them. And yes, my box has also become somewhat surplus to requirement yet I'm not able to recycle it!

[@BrianStDenis-pj1tq]

While I was skeptical of your title, your conclusion at the end was right on. Summary: if you only get one of those two type of tools, for sure get the drill. But, an impact driver is an amazing tool and I use it more frequently than my drill. If you can, get both in the first kit you get, saves money versus buying tools one at a time.

[@emmgeevideo]

I think part of tool selection is how can I be more productive. At the end he points out something I'd like to amplify. Having both a drill and impact driver means you can quickly drill pilot holes and then drive the screws without having to change bits and (God forbid) change settings on the drill. In my case I got a standalone drill first, then a combo set. So now I have two drills. I'm working on a project now that requires two drill bits to create the pilot holes and it's so nice to have three devices with each bit ready to use. Slam, bam, thank you ma'am.

[@SandyMasquith]

Very nicely done! Thank you so much for putting out this video. The information is so clearly presented, without any silly personas or cringy jokes. I'm no "fanboy", and have some Milwaukee, some Ryobi, even some Dewalt and Ridgid. I'm a hobbyist/homeowner so my demands are not very stringent. I just want a tool that will drive the screw/lag/bolt or drill the hole in wood or metal when I need it done. Now I understand which tool to use on the hinge screws in a box vs the lag screws for deck joists. I've ruined many a box by trying to install the hinge screws with an impact...*sigh*. To be honest, that's one place where I'll drill the hole with the drill, then set the screw with a hand-held screwdriver.

[@MizanRahman-zc5wr]

A very clear and comprehensive explanation of the two types of tool. As a casual diy enthusiast I finally have an understanding of when to use my Makita drill or driver as I have encountered the problems you highlighted in your video. Thanks.

[@donclay3511]

Thanks. I didn't know all that. About those bags, though. I started putting other tools into one of them. Now it's impossibly full of tools that are great to start out with before getting all the other ones out. And, the zipper has held out ... for about 20 years or so.

[@budm9982]

Ryobi - impact driver + drill. Driver gets used 50% of the time but the drill is necessary too. Just as you advised, go with what works. And for the hammer drill? A corded Ryobi. It's not needed very often but for masonry, it can't be beat.

[@davidvalletta2755]

I had a wasp nest under a board of my deck. Made the mistake of using the impact driver to take the screws off the deck board… got stung. lol. Love the impact driver for fast screwing. But the drill has its place. Avoiding the disturbance of wasps I learned is one of them.

[@AncoraImparoPiper]

I was hesitant at first to click on and watch this video because I felt I knew all there was to this topic after watching several other videos. I'm glad though that I did watch this anyway because you put a whole different approach to explaining these concepts. Excellent.

[@risingawareness13]

Love them both for how they excel at different tasks. Bought this Milwaukee gen 3 M12 drill & driver set on sale recently and liked it so much I bought a second. It's nice having two drills: one for drilling holes and the other for installing screws into said holes. Sometimes you don't want to drive a screw into wood without a pilot hole because it will split the wood on your project.

[@brendanlangord1687]

Don't give up, one day you will have to courage to throw the case away. It took me about 15 years to get the courage myself, but once you do, it is so liberating. Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@emmakai2243]

If you take the time to remove the form fitting bits from the hard cases, they're great as misc tool cases. I use them for go bags for the car (eg jumper cables, first aid, gloves, spare tools, fire extinguisher, etc)

[@shawnmurphy6657]

I actually use my big soft sided case on the shelf to hold most of the set. It is wide open and keeps it all accessible. Never used it to carry them except when I moved to the next house. 😂

[@SeansWoodBarn]

I apologize if my comment is redundant. I just watched this, and I did not want to scroll back through all of the previous comments. Another great feature of most modern drills... once you get the keyless chuck completely tightened down, if you "click" it the opposite direction ever so slightly, it actually locks the chuck so you do not have to deal with the chuck disengaging if you happen to need to be run it reverse!

[@Lincolnstww]

@@SeansWoodBarn turns out that’s not actually true. Someone contacted the chuck manufacturers last year and made a video about it. Urban legend

[@SeansWoodBarn]

@Lincolnstww Thanks for that info, I'll look into that. These days you never know what to believe anymore?

[@SeansWoodBarn]

@@Lincolnstww Dug a little deeper into this. My next door neighbor, "part time", this is their beach house. He recently retired as the Senior VP of HR for Black and Decker. His retirement job is a consultant for that same department. He helped me get most of my Dewalt stuff at cost, good neighbor to have? He went back to get me the old laser line that has since been long deleted as an option on the Dewalt miter saw. The story goes, he had to go into the "discontinued closet" to find me one. Asked him about the theory of the locking chuck and he confirmed that yes, that was it's intended purpose, but it did have its faults, and they chose not to describe it has such to avoid any backlash from the occasional failures? Always going to be a topic for discussion, but I use 2 Dewalts all day every day, and have never had one slip a bit during my day to day life as a Maintenance Technician for a nationwide ISP? Not doubting any info you may have found, just saying... there are plenty of professionals out here in the field confirming it works? Maybe a great video in the making?? I would love to see some side by side comparisons?

[@meanderinoranges]

I never use the clutch when running screws into wood. The torque needed for a flush screw varies too much. When working with metal, the clutch can come in handy, though.

[@username-mc7jw]

I argue you need BOTH, even as a DIY'er!!! When I'm working on a project, in most cases I'm going to be drilling holes AND driving screws. Having TWO TOOLS to do TWO TASKS saves a lot of time and bit-swapping! There are a LOT of drawbacks to using a drill (i.e. the wrong tool) to drive screws. Cons include: 1) Constantly fiddling with clutch to drive screws to the proper depth. Hit a knot, and you're going to be re-adjusting! 2) Bits tend to jump out of screw heads with drill. Impacts do not have this problem, whether it's a torx or phillips head. 3) Drills weigh more than an impact. Driving a lot of screws with a drill will get tiring! 4) Drills are normally longer, which makes getting into smaller spaces harder. 5) Drills require more current to drive a screw than an impact. You can drive a lot more screws per charge with an impact. 6) Bit-swapping is counter productive when you need to drill holes and drive screws on the same project.

[@GF-ph1jp]

For most of my woodworking projects I prefer to use a drill to drive screws as I have more control by using the clutch function, especially when working with 3/4” lumber or thinner material. However, if I am doing a project with construction lumber (e.g., 2x4) where I am not as concerned about over driving the screw, an impact driver is my tool of choice. Bottom line is that the right tool to use depends on the application as to how much control, speed and/or power/torque you need, as well as the type of fasteners.

[@sonorangaming449]

I love my Milwaukee M18 Impact Driver. Ive used for drilling through harder metals, removing stuck bolts on my motorcycle, as well as a few other applications. The speed selector makes a huge difference. It made quick work of everything i through at it, some of which the drill struggled with. The drill still has its place, of course, but im using my impact driver 99% of the time over a drill for what i need to do.

[@inspired4more]

90% of what I do is with the impact. It's my go-to. Mine is lighter than the regular drill, and I don't really do fine work.

[@monteglover4133]

Do Not buy over powered drills or drivers, for 99% of my usages I use my M-12 drill and/or driver over my M-18 drill or driver. The M-12 are much lighter and smaller and lighter therefore easier to use.

[@FoldingScreenMonkey]

My M12 impact can fully sink timber screws. The M18 can probably sink them faster but the difference probably isn't worth the price or weight

[@Comm0ut]

Beware of generalizations. Some tasks require serious power, like removing CV axle nuts, shaft yoke bolts and damper bolts. Again not everyone is just hanging pictures. Light tools for light work and heavy hitters for more demanding work make each task dramatically easier.

[@monteglover4133]

@@Comm0ut You appear to be equating an impact driver with an impact wrench, they are vastly different I highly doubt that my M-18 impact driver would remove lug nuts where as my 1/2” impact wrench no sweat

[@MarvinRader]

@@monteglover4133 You are correct that you need an impact wrench to remove lug nuts. I have the Milwaukee M-18 Impact wrench Model # 2863-20, it has 1400 ft lbs of torque! I used it to remove a CV axle nut, when nothing else would budge it. It also makes quick work when removing any large bolts from the car. This impact wrench can use the same M-18 batteries I use on my Drill and my Impact driver. I find the M-18 impact driver is actually pretty light weight for the power it has and better balanced than the M-12 impact driver we have at work. Plus the M-18 batteries last much longer than M-12 when putting in deck screws or anything that requires a lot of run time, even when using the smallest M-18 batteries.

[@nate32015]

@@Comm0ut I think his comment is just that the m12 is an f150, and that you shouldn't be tricked into buying an f350 just because it has more power. Of course there is always the one dude who has to chime in and say that he needs an f350 for his real man tasks and he's not just hauling groceries, thanks that guy.

[@dennybernsmeier3007]

As a heavy equipment mechanic I love my impact driver. The right tool for the job. Impact drivers work great for removing screws and with 1/2" and 3/8" drive sockets.

[@compunurse]

I use the bag I got with my combo kit, not to put in the drill and driver and saw and batteries and charger. But rather to use at Aldi‘s when I go grocery shopping. That way I don’t have to keep buying their flimsy paper bags. Besides that, it looks pretty cool to walk out with your groceries in a tool bag.

[@Komainu959]

This was such great advice regarding get the brand that has the most useful tools for YOU. I also wanted to get a battery powered trimmer and so I went with DeWalt- mostly because I was used to using the one my parents had and it worked well. I would also strongly suggest getting a drill that has the hammer function if you even think you'll need to drill into concrete. While you technically can drill into concrete using a mason bit I found it much more difficult to drill a straight and true hole- Enough that after drilling 2 of 6 holes I needed to install a grab bar for my Mom I went and got a dirt cheap WalMart special corded hammer drill for 30 bucks and even that did an amazing job compared to my standard drill.

[@FewerOptions-mx7qt]

I have both. Impact driver imo doesnt break things as easily but hammer drill is so much better at drilling in concrete. I like dewalt best because its most popular so if you could borrow a battery from a co-worker if yours dies.

[@prerecordedresponse9884]

There's nothing wrong with buying multiple brands too. I buy both Red and Green for different tasks. My drill/driver is a brushless Milwaukee kit because I want them to last for ages. But I'm also not afraid to buy Ryobi for some of the tools that are only used twice a year at half the price. Brand loyalty is dumb. Buy what works for you.

[@patrickfiles6080]

Excellent explanations--I like having the drill set up for pilot holes and the driver set up with a screw bit. But I have overdriven screws with the impact driver, splitting wood and breaking screws on occasion. And those bags that tools come in: if you have children, you can use the bags to put together a small tool kit for them when they move out. Granted, you might have to wait a few years depending on their ages . . . and their inclination to keep living at your house well into their 20s 🙂

[@paulmartin2348]

All of your comments are perfect and correct. Anyone driving (or using) Phillips screws for anything deserves to cam-out. I hate them. (they are actually designed to cam-out, it's a feature)

[@THANATOSIXU]

I have both and a cabinet drill. The cabinet drill has interchangeable heads for different applications. I use all three, but boy is that cabinet drill small, and very practical for most applications where high torque isnt necessary.

[@ptester1]

Another advantage of impact drivers is they are a bit less likely to split hard woods as the intermittent nature allows time for the wood to adjust. That still doesn’t mean you can go whole hog and drive things in on high, just that it makes it easier to finesse some screws in.

[@sunburstmike8745]

I've saved every screw, nut, bolt, and washer I've ever touched ... why in the hell would I ever throw out the cool bag or case the tool comes in? If nothing else, repurpose it. Then again, I guess that's why my shop looks the way it does ... haha! Great video as usual, Lincoln.

[@erikmacaluso]

You can fit larger than half inch drill bits into a half inch chuck, btw.

[@micron001]

Yes, they're called Prentice drill bits.

[@MusicMike747]

Secret Tip I learned last year: Most drills have a feature that is not listed in the manuals and most people don’t know about. After securing the chuck until it clicks? Give it one short click in the OPPOSITE direction. It locks the bit in place. You’re welcome 😇

[@Lincolnstww]

@@MusicMike747 turns out that’s not true. Someone did a video on it and contacted the two manufacturers of drill chucks. They said no

[@joet3935]

For the M12 vs M18 Milwaukee debate, I'd say the most important thing to consider is whether you want a battery powered circular saw or saber/reciprocating saw. The M12 circular saw is okay for cutting 2x4's and less than 1/2" plywood. The M12 hackzall will take its time cutting a 2x4. I use my m12 hackzall for drywall, pruning, and plastic. The corded sawzall is still more powerful than the battery ones, so going all m12 and getting a corded circular saw and corded sawzall should be considered.

[@rtanderson2]

I have multiples of both these tools. I’ve never taken the time to actually learn what each setting on the drill is. Awesome video!

[@MR-si1eq]

I gotta say that I agree about 99% with your opinion or comments agout this. I do like staying with one battery. As for which one? I will go by dependability. Light weight? Not always. Price does play a part. Sometimes buying 2 tools separately is cheaper than a combo. But lately they have had some pretty good deals. Love your channel and attitude. Sarcasm ❤

[@aaronalquiza9680]

"Electronic clutches are so polite" Clutch: **honk**

[@JoseNunya]

If you own one of these drivers and still have trouble driving the screw into hard wood try dragging the screw across a small bar of hand soap and you will probably say, wow, why didn't i think of that.

[@bobadkins7377]

Age old advice, still works very well. I saw this tip in a Popular Mechanics magazine years ago and thought it was fluff to fill out the page. I was wrong. It’s amazing how that bit of soap works especially when having to use a hand screwdriver.

[@davewitter6565]

When I retired I replaced all for corded tools with Matika that used the same battery. I am a complete amateur but feel like Tim Allen whenever I use my battery powered Makitas.

[@berzerk8010]

Just a random note your ad was probably the greatest sponsor ad ive seen in a yt video, because the yt video was still running and I dont need to skip, but I also completely got the whole ad. 10/10

[@grepora]

I use the impact drive most of the time, even for drilling wood or masonry. Ease and quickness of changing bits is the main advantage. I use the drill mostly for specialized non-hex shank bits or when I want to control the depth of screws. I have even used the impact driver on plumbing faucets to remove frozen nuts that cannot be removed with hand tools. Other cordless tools I use are the oscillating multitool and circular saw. I have a dedicated corded hammer drill (which I purchased used/cheap). The bags are useful to carry tools and supplies to multiple properties. I use one bag to carry the cordless tools and another bag to carry supplies and accessories. Previously, I put them all in the same bag, but it became unwieldy and more difficult to put the cordless tools into.

[@marlinstudio.]

great video. The usual amount of fact and Lincoln St. Wit. makes for an informative and entertaining watch. Personally I use the drill to drill and the impact to drive screws. With practice on the trigger the impact can be controlled to a limit. For screws in to flat pack furniture I use either the impact or a ratchet screw driver.

[@pinkytaylor5845]

The bags are now my husband's luggage. He can always spot them on the carousel. ❤❤❤

[@richpeggyfranks490]

I used a large Milwaukee combo tool bag as luggage. It went missing at the airport and never made it to the carousel. Luckily, it was found near a dumpster, opened and abandoned. The thief was a baggage employee spotted on camera. I figure he thought it was a bag full of new Milwaukee tools. Haha. I switched back to a regular bag. Thx.

[@givemeanaxe]

as a person uses these tools everyday, and rents or sales them nearly as often, this was a very good video. Great work and.... nice way to do the ad too by the way. 😊

[@TheBClark88]

Getting an impact driver made a huge difference for general construction things around the house and garden, but it is strictly only for that. Driving screws into furniture and interior walls is where the combi drill and its clutch come in. You really need both, and I've had enough wrist yanks and rounded out screw heads to know I can't get away with just using a drill.

[@gabtrid4god]

Spent 10 years only using drills working for my Pops. Moved onto construction work and sites and someone asked if I would like to use an impact. My reaction was "???? What's an impact?". Certainly got quite the look 🤣

[@Cobloaf69]

Been working with drills almost every day since i finished high school (6 years) and never knew the number feature. Great to know, awesome video!

[@mauricedelarosa6083]

6 years to finish high school or finished high school 6 years ago?!! 😂

[@Cobloaf69]

@@mauricedelarosa6083 I said every day since I finished high school, so obviously 6 years ago 🤣

[@TheOtherBill]

I agree the plastic cases are mostly useless although I do keep my angle grinder stored in its case - since retirement I rarely use it. However, the canvas bags are always useful for other purposes, such as a range bag or an overnight bag. The larger ones will hold a couple, tools, a charger, and several batteries for ease of transport.

[@duudsuufd]

I keep all my power tools in the plastic cages. Keeps the dust away and you can pile up the boxes. Not so interesting if you need them every day of course.

[@mullingreen8370]

Can’t emphasize enough how nice the Milwaukee 12V Fuel Surge impact driver is… definitely not a mechanics driver, but it gives a more consistent torque (you’ll never break a bit intentionally), and it’s 50% quieter. Very very nice impact I use in woodwork to drive screws. Highly recommend for anyone willing to shell out $200 for an impact. I will note that I never (unless I have no other option) use my impact for drilling holes. When I’m drilling, precision and clean exit holes are very important. I want a consistent rotation and torque level. But both are valuable and should be bought together…. But if you have to buy only one, you need the drill!

[@hdlivemodels]

The drill driver is for drilling and wood/material fasteners (screws and drill bits) The impact driver/wrench is for fasteners with a threaded counterpart. (Nuts and bolts)

[@68HC060]

Mechanical clutch also allows you to use it as a pseudo-"impact" drive - I've needed that a couple of times; it's great for unscrewing old rusty screws without breaking them (note: sometimes you'll need to go back and forth in direction a few times).

[@whitexeno]

I would go one further and recommend getting the hammer drill first and then adding an impact later. The hammer functionality is handy when drilling into masonry.

[@jimk8520]

Don’t let the availability of a particular tool decide which manufacturer the rest of your 18v tools will be simply due to battery compatibility. These days there are battery adapters available allowing one to mix and match 18v tools and batteries. Now one can get the best tool for the job without worrying about stocking a veritable plethora of batteries and chargers to use it.

[@gatekeeper65]

40+ years professional experience. Makita. Batteries last as much as 40% longer than others, and the tools rarely fail on a job site.

[@erictjones]

Close, impact drivers motors are constant speed, it is the hammer that disengages then spins and hits to provide force.

[@karlfife]

An important detail you omitted is the fact that the impact driver's bit torque drops to ZERO between impacts, allowing the bit to re-seat itself in the fastener between pulses of power/torque. This is a why a screw and bit won't cam-out and strip like they do when driving the same with a regular drill.

[@Lincolnstww]

@@karlfife I recalling spending at least 45 seconds talking about that

[@karlfife]

You're right. I missed it. 8:30

[@Dave-ct1jk]

I bought the mulwaukee m12 combo kit for my woodworking and round the house tools. I find the bag very useful for holding my charger and drill/driver bits. So I just grab the bag and go to where im working

[@georgedennison3338]

Good job on the info & explanation. A couple more details re inserts & holders. Some insert holder, especially those w/ the slide sleeve for holding screws & allowing one hand screw driving, are aluminum, not steel. Only steel insert holders should be used w/ an impact driver. It'll beat the alum holders to death. Re cam outs in phillips heads. Not all cam outs are caused by too much torque. There are two types of phillips screws, one is shallower & is more frequently found in machine screws. It may be JIS, Japan(ese) Industrial Something or other. I also find differences in phillips sheet metal screws &/or in inserts. If you look closely at phillips 1" long inserts, one will look like it's a smaller diameter. They both are #2 bits, (phillips sizing is 0-4, zero smallest, at least; may be a 00), but some wood type/sheet metal screws will cam out like crazy w/ the larger looking bit, but work fine w/ the other. Or... vice versa. I was an early adopter of screws in construction, the early '90's, before there were readily available construction screws. I switched to screws as a remodeling carpenter/contractor. I had to switch to screws because of shoulder problems from being an apprentice before nailing guns were normal. For 3-4 years I packed lumber, nailed studs during wall construction & hand nailed all the T&G 2 X 8 Subfloor & all the plywood wall & roof sheathing. To get the old 'them damn nailers don't hold as good as a 16d/8d galv nail' curmugeon I worked for to accept nail guns, I bought a used setup from a retiring contractor & shamed the curmugeon into using it & buying it from me, (It might have helped change his mind when I slid a piece of 1/2" cdx into his metal tool box, under his lunch & put a couple of 1/2" crown sheathing stables into the subfloor. He about tipped over when he grabbed it at lunch & it didn't move. I deadpanned from the stack of studs I was perched on, to eat: 'It's only got a couple of them staples that don't hold anything. You should be able to just pull them loose...'. I've tried a half dozen times to definitively know about & be able to identify the different phillips screws & bits. I gave up. I now just make sure I've got plenty of every different kind of phillips I can find & except for the screws I still haven't used up, I use primarily torx w/ some Roberson/square thrown in. One last tip from an early adopting old timer. Those funny looking a symetric phillips? The one's w/ different length crosses? They dominate electrical stuff, but I find them elsewhere. There is a bit specifically made for those; found it on Ali Express. Come in 3 sizes, buy all 3 & buy multiples. Once you use them, you'll want to give them to all your buddies & once co-workers try one, they'll steal 'em. They are THAT good. Recall the 1st time you power drove a torx or square drive wood screw, that solid POWER drive feeling you got? These asymetric phillips bits feel like THAT! GeoD

[@kbsanders]

3:07 Shots fired.

[@treyhudson73]

Again at 7:09 😂