Please Don’t Buy an Impact Driver

Curious if you should buy a drill or driver? This is for you
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[@thomasjones3508]

It is so refreshing to hear you state that most DIY'ers wont notice the difference in performance and looked at the bigger picture. So many people fanboy out on brands rather than being realistic about the end use.

[@h3lio5]

Ryobi gets a lot of flack but I used a $150 18v drill/driver combo set from them to build out a 800sqft basement, 16x10 shed, 12x12 deck, and build a bunch of furniture. I’ve no complaints

[@richardwang474]

They work quite well. They are just a very ugly color lol. I believe the problem comes where they claim to be budget, yet are not much less than something like a dewalt usually.

[@robbo1415]

Agreed. For me as a non-trade user, Ryobi has served me well.

[@5055hunter]

My 20 y/o blue Ryobi driver is still going strong!

[@ZyklonBeast12]

Ryobi will outwork 90% of consumers needs.

[@GregorDuckman]

Ryobi is like 33% cheaper than DeWalt across Canada so as a DIY/hobby guy they're my absolute go-to

[@richadent968]

20+ years ago I drove a screw with an impact driver and have never gone back to driving screws with a drill.

[@Mark-l9k9q]

Strange how no one needed an impact driver until 20 years ago. They still don't.

[@mattanderson2074]

@@Mark-l9k9q 30 years ago no one needed a mobile phone. They still don't. 🤣

[@Mark-l9k9q]

@@mattanderson2074 True, and neither impact drivers, nor mobile phones have improved anything.

[@techringo6469]

@@Mark-l9k9q I disagree. I screwed down deck boards all day (about 600 screws) and at the end of the day I practically had to use my left hand to unwrap my fingers from the drill grip. It was a couple of days before I could hold my beer in that hand without any pain. With a drill you have to fight against and counter the torque. The two years later I did another section, twice the size, and just happened to have an impact driver. I didn't really know much about them, but it was available so I decided to give it a try. That new section took me about the same amount of time as the first, smaller section, and had no pain or cramping from holding the tool all day. Saying no one needed them 20 years ago is like saying no one needed a power drill 100 years ago, and they still don't. The whole point of tools is to augment human capabilities. My girlfriend has no trouble helping with home construction projects with the impact driver. If she uses the drill she's good for about 3 minutes and says that's it. Drills can't be beat for drilling but are far inferior to impact drivers for any kind of construction screw.

[@ryanhughes4845]

@richadent968 exactly my experience

[@ryanrank3070]

Something that gets overlooked is 12v vs 18/20v. When I'm working on something, I find myself reaching for my 12v tools more. They provide enough power for 80% of what I do and are notably lighter. For an average, weekend DIYer, I usually say to save a few dollars and get the 12v.

[@Lincolnstww]

I think that’s a really good point I missed!

[@mm9773]

I don’t know: my 12 V drill weighs 1.1 kg, my 18 V drill 1.5 kg - a difference, but it’s not significant unless you use those things all day. But it is smaller, which can be a real advantage. However, I quickly switched from 12 V to 18 V for the reason that is given in the video: I have the same weed whacker and a bunch of other tools that use the same batteries as the drill. Among them a handheld vacuum cleaner, which at 18 V just about sucks enough to make it useful. I’m not unhappy that I’m set up for the 12 V system, but I could probably do without it.

[@AlpineTheHusky]

Also depends very much on how the tool is designed. My Metabo 12V is WAY more powerful than my milwaukee that I bought because someone kept preaching about how great they are ._. TLDR dont buy em. Too expensive for what they provide

[@TheCynicalSquiddly]

Came here to say the exact same thing. I have an M18 drill but have barely touched it since I bought the M12 Fuel drill/driver set. The M18 only comes out these days if I'm using a hole saw or a big masonry bit.

[@zwing300]

I will second that. 12v pocket drill/drivers are the best option for any DIYer or Pro. Cheaper, better ergonomics, plenty of power for mostly any type of project, and safer for the user and the project. I have corded drills and a press for the heavy duty stuff.

[@Zaiyetz]

One other note on impact drivers: if you work on cars, appliances, etc (anything with bolts that you’d use a socket set and ratchet with), an impact driver is amazing for that.

[@christopherlamoureux8617]

Can confirm

[@jacob_krause_official7286]

Bro I needed this like 5 years ago when I started buying my first tools 😭Either way still nice to learn some of this stuff in more detail now. Love you and your videos, keep em coming

[@MrWharfrat05]

Bro, you’ve made it. Festool driver, under cabinet microwave and delivery meal plans! Well done man.

[@monteglover4133]

Do Not buy over powered drills or drivers, for 99% of my usages I use my M-12 drill and/or driver over my M-18 drill or driver. The M-12 are much lighter and smaller and lighter therefore easier to use.

[@FoldingScreenMonkey]

My M12 impact can fully sink timber screws. The M18 can probably sink them faster but the difference probably isn't worth the price or weight

[@wdtaut5650]

13:04 This deserves more attention. It's where the combo really shines. Any project with multiple screws to sink will go way easier with the combo. 13:20 If the tool came in a bag, I use the bag. It keeps the tools clean and convenient, easy to carry to the job. The hard cases, though, are really useless. I don't know why. Just harder to put the tools back. I don't use them except one I repurposed to hold my pop rivets and tool.

[@adamdejesus4017]

The combo kits are marketed well during the holidays. You get a choice of one tool, one battery, or two tools, two batteries, at about the same price (for the homeowner brands).

[@wdtaut5650]

@@adamdejesus4017 Yep. That was my first combo: 2 batteries, a driver, a drill, a charger, and the bag, on special for Christmas.

[@jerryedmonds79]

I got regular tool boxes for my cordless tools. I have one with all my drilling/driving tools and one with all my cutting tools, with bits, drills, and blades inside. Charger and batteries ae in another bag. I grab two boxes and one bag and have everything needed to work.

[@thomasjones3508]

... and I feel stupid now.. do you know how many projects I have worked on and kept switching out out the bit?

[@Fatedfilms]

I like the hard cases with certain tools; like your pop rivet case - if the tool needs a bunch of accessories, like a rotary hammer with all your SDS+ or SDS max bits, sanders with all different grit sanding pads, oscillating multi-tool with all of the bits, rotary tool with all of the little Dremel bits. and of course the battery.

[@AnnoftheNorthernPlains]

Your videos are great, straight to the point, no fluff, and humor inserted as needed LOL ALSO I appreciated that you kept working and showing what you were changing on the dial even while doing the food promo. I know content providers get income from ads that allow them to keep making videos for us viewers so I understand the interruptions here and there but i didn't even have to fast forward here!

[@MrSpleenboy]

The electric clutch drill sounded like a clown car horn when the clutch engaged! 🤣

[@Fatedfilms]

I did not expect that😆😆

[@kb3cxe]

Great video. I just bought a used impact driver for 2$ at a yard sale, and never thought about the fact that every time between the impacts the bit gets a chance to reset. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.

[@mikeimbrogno4150]

LOVE the Cyber Truck joke!!!!!

[@davidholmes4088]

I live in Australia. Your videos are essential in helping me sort stuff out. By not over investing in stuff i do not need.

[@brendanlangord1687]

Don't give up, one day you will have to courage to throw the case away. It took me about 15 years to get the courage myself, but once you do, it is so liberating. Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@emmakai2243]

If you take the time to remove the form fitting bits from the hard cases, they're great as misc tool cases. I use them for go bags for the car (eg jumper cables, first aid, gloves, spare tools, fire extinguisher, etc)

[@mcguiganmike]

Great advice on the hammer setting. I bought a set of drill/driver and it did not have a hammer setting. Three years later, I needed it so now I have three drills/drivers - but hey same batteries! Good video and thanks!

[@B_Van_Glorious]

Next is the 1/2" drill for coring out apples. I mean, beams. Beams. Yes. Also best if you need to drill thru an autos frame. You'll burn up all your batteries with a 3/8th drill trying to get thru that shit. I recommend going to habitat or goodwill for a solid old drill that comes with the extra side handle, just to keep as a dedicated mixer. Grab an extra angle grinder or two while ur there. It's sooo much nicer, and faster, to just have dedicated grinders.

[@jimk8520]

I have a drill with a hammer setting. I also now have a hammer drill because the hammer drill is at least 10 times faster than my drill with the hammer setting when working concrete.

[@timpgod]

I 100% agree with all of this. My only Add is screw choice. I find standard cheap wood screws will snap with an impact driver almost always, whereas almost any other screw wont... My experience, I use my drill to screw in these screws.

[@ollie54able]

Wow!Wow! WOW!!! This has been the most comprehensive explanation of the difference of the two tools I've seen, not to mention how to properly use the myriad of settings. Very clear and fully informative. Excellent video Thank you very much!

[@jimk8520]

Don’t let the availability of a particular tool decide which manufacturer the rest of your 18v tools will be simply due to battery compatibility. These days there are battery adapters available allowing one to mix and match 18v tools and batteries. Now one can get the best tool for the job without worrying about stocking a veritable plethora of batteries and chargers to use it.

[@erikmacaluso]

You can fit larger than half inch drill bits into a half inch chuck, btw.

[@pinkytaylor5845]

The bags are now my husband's luggage. He can always spot them on the carousel. ❤❤❤

[@richpeggyfranks490]

I used a large Milwaukee combo tool bag as luggage. It went missing at the airport and never made it to the carousel. Luckily, it was found near a dumpster, opened and abandoned. The thief was a baggage employee spotted on camera. I figure he thought it was a bag full of new Milwaukee tools. Haha. I switched back to a regular bag. Thx.

[@hdlivemodels]

The drill driver is for drilling and wood/material fasteners (screws and drill bits) The impact driver/wrench is for fasteners with a threaded counterpart. (Nuts and bolts)

[@1steelcobra]

I got the DeWalt hammer drill and DCF850 impact in a kit with 2 4AH batteries, charger, and bag, for the combined retail cost of just the bare tools. They sit in a Toughsystem 2 Small case with the bits, measuring stuff, and some sockets and other odds and ends for doing stuff like hanging TVs. I actually use the bag for carrying eye/ear/dust protection now.

[@MizanRahman-zc5wr]

A very clear and comprehensive explanation of the two types of tool. As a casual diy enthusiast I finally have an understanding of when to use my Makita drill or driver as I have encountered the problems you highlighted in your video. Thanks.

[@rtanderson2]

I have multiples of both these tools. I’ve never taken the time to actually learn what each setting on the drill is. Awesome video!

[@AndrewScofield]

What I do with all those bags that come with tools is make 'go bags'. I have all my electrical tools in one bag, when I am working on anything electrical, its all there including spare screws, and wire, etc... no running back and forth. i also have one for plumbing, its so helpful to have it all in one place.

[@joet3935]

For the M12 vs M18 Milwaukee debate, I'd say the most important thing to consider is whether you want a battery powered circular saw or saber/reciprocating saw. The M12 circular saw is okay for cutting 2x4's and less than 1/2" plywood. The M12 hackzall will take its time cutting a 2x4. I use my m12 hackzall for drywall, pruning, and plastic. The corded sawzall is still more powerful than the battery ones, so going all m12 and getting a corded circular saw and corded sawzall should be considered.

[@THANATOSIXU]

I have both and a cabinet drill. The cabinet drill has interchangeable heads for different applications. I use all three, but boy is that cabinet drill small, and very practical for most applications where high torque isnt necessary.

[@CPng1N]

Rigid has, or had, a fantastic double set with 2 batteries and a soft case. 1 over the top drill and 1 over the top impact wrench with 4.0 amp hour batteries which are rather heavy but last nice and long.

[@tomforward990]

30 year pro renovation contractor. I have been on multiple platforms. Milwaukee,Dewalt, and Makita. Makita takes the cake for durability in my experience. Battery tech is lacking a bit but other than that they hold up.

[@davidvalletta2755]

I had a wasp nest under a board of my deck. Made the mistake of using the impact driver to take the screws off the deck board… got stung. lol. Love the impact driver for fast screwing. But the drill has its place. Avoiding the disturbance of wasps I learned is one of them.

[@hansangb]

@13:00 The time saved by having a dedicated drill for piiot holes+counter sinking and a driver for the screws is an oft underrated luxury. Like having a dedicated palm router with a round over bit or having a GlueBot. 😂.

[@mm9773]

This is mostly about convenience, not time. Sometimes I end up having to switch a lot instead of being able to drill all the holes first, and while I don’t really care if it takes 30 minutes or 38, it’s really annoying,

[@mr.upcycle9589]

​@@mm9773Time is money on a jobsite. Having both at hand saves time, which of course is more convenient.

[@jasonoliver6751]

Instructional and informational, straight to the point and no dressed up bullshit. Fantastic Job!

[@davebennett5069]

ooh, new camera. fancy pants over here. the production value has increased, panning shots of products, well centered, etc. Also, that's the best way to get people to stick through an ad read. keep doing things relevant to the video content...brilliant!

[@JamesOKeefe-US]

Best ad integration I've seen. Kept the video going. Nice work.

[@andrewwatkinson1548]

I think it’s worth pointing out that screwing anything with a drill or driver is more to do with downward pressure rather than speed, limiting cam out.

[@GF-ph1jp]

For most of my woodworking projects I prefer to use a drill to drive screws as I have more control by using the clutch function, especially when working with 3/4” lumber or thinner material. However, if I am doing a project with construction lumber (e.g., 2x4) where I am not as concerned about over driving the screw, an impact driver is my tool of choice. Bottom line is that the right tool to use depends on the application as to how much control, speed and/or power/torque you need, as well as the type of fasteners.

[@risingawareness13]

Love them both for how they excel at different tasks. Bought this Milwaukee gen 3 M12 drill & driver set on sale recently and liked it so much I bought a second. It's nice having two drills: one for drilling holes and the other for installing screws into said holes. Sometimes you don't want to drive a screw into wood without a pilot hole because it will split the wood on your project.

[@emmgeevideo]

I think part of tool selection is how can I be more productive. At the end he points out something I'd like to amplify. Having both a drill and impact driver means you can quickly drill pilot holes and then drive the screws without having to change bits and (God forbid) change settings on the drill. In my case I got a standalone drill first, then a combo set. So now I have two drills. I'm working on a project now that requires two drill bits to create the pilot holes and it's so nice to have three devices with each bit ready to use. Slam, bam, thank you ma'am.

[@JoseNunya]

If you own one of these drivers and still have trouble driving the screw into hard wood try dragging the screw across a small bar of hand soap and you will probably say, wow, why didn't i think of that.

[@adrianscarlett]

In the uk, it's common to purchase a 2 pack drill and impact driver

[@daltonn.lindd22]

Been using drills for a long time and am still learning lol great video

[@joshoconnor6684]

That is not a self tapping screw setting. Its stops the drill once it hit about 15 foot lbs of force so you dont break those low torque screws or over torque something and in reverse it slows down after it senses its broken the nut or screw loose so you dont accidentaly fling it across the shop.

[@krislamb1701]

I've actually literally never thought about throwing out those bags... I'll throw mine out if you throw out yours :P

[@GentleGiantFan]

Don't throw the bag or case away. You can use them elsewhere. The bag that came with my Makita impact is small enough to keep a few tools tucked under the back seat of my Jeep.

[@MrPrime2357]

additional information from a keyboard warrior here: - you could have mentioned, that for really long screws (carpentry work) a really powerful driver is better. Impacts won´t be able to put the screws in because of the non-constant torque - the screws just heat up. I think you can even see the effect a little bit inside the slow-mo video at 8:34. - noise: impacts are somewhat noisy, drills less so. I love my 12V Bosch (non brushed) because it´s so silent. But there is the impact oil type out there, I think it´s called surge for milwaukee. - chucks are in general more accurate (less play) - imho hex > smooth due to form fitting vs. force fitting, less slipping - budget tip, for drilling big holes impacts are actually insanly cost efficient. it´s insane how much torque small machines like the m12 stuff can generate.

[@ehRalph]

If using clutch, I tend to set it lighter than needed and then (power off) manually rotate the drill body slightly to finish sinking the head.

[@TheOtherBill]

I agree the plastic cases are mostly useless although I do keep my angle grinder stored in its case - since retirement I rarely use it. However, the canvas bags are always useful for other purposes, such as a range bag or an overnight bag. The larger ones will hold a couple, tools, a charger, and several batteries for ease of transport.

[@michaelfairchild]

I wasnt sure about the electronical clutch when Ive bought the Makita XGT drill, but it actually got me hooked on it and also lack of that clutch slip sound.

[@christophrothert4340]

some additions to your video... don't waste your money on a battery drill, with a hammer drill setting. If you have to drill in concrete or other hard stones, get a proper pneumatic hammer drill. If you're drilling into brick or acerated concrete a normal drill with a bit for stone will do just fine. The hammer function adds more weight, when it isn't neccessary. You can avoid breaking your hand or wrist when you are getting a drill with a kickback stop. Bosch and Milwaukee built a kickbackstop in a lot of drills, e.g.. Makita afaik only in the 40V drill. It's saved my ass or rather wrist a few times. An impact is good for (long) screws with a large diameter. If you are using a long screw with a kinda small diameter, like a 5/16th and 16" or longer screw it's likely that the rotary impact has less to no effect because of the torsion of the screw.

[@daniladergachev]

electronic clutch is supposed to be used at second speed

[@SandyMasquith]

Very nicely done! Thank you so much for putting out this video. The information is so clearly presented, without any silly personas or cringy jokes. I'm no "fanboy", and have some Milwaukee, some Ryobi, even some Dewalt and Ridgid. I'm a hobbyist/homeowner so my demands are not very stringent. I just want a tool that will drive the screw/lag/bolt or drill the hole in wood or metal when I need it done. Now I understand which tool to use on the hinge screws in a box vs the lag screws for deck joists. I've ruined many a box by trying to install the hinge screws with an impact...*sigh*. To be honest, that's one place where I'll drill the hole with the drill, then set the screw with a hand-held screwdriver.

[@jeffmendolo]

I loaded one of those bags from the closet with all those tools I had outgrown (my first screwdriver set, old crescent wrench set etc) and surprised my son with it when we moved him into his first apartment. His roommates were jealous.

[@mullingreen8370]

Can’t emphasize enough how nice the Milwaukee 12V Fuel Surge impact driver is… definitely not a mechanics driver, but it gives a more consistent torque (you’ll never break a bit intentionally), and it’s 50% quieter. Very very nice impact I use in woodwork to drive screws. Highly recommend for anyone willing to shell out $200 for an impact. I will note that I never (unless I have no other option) use my impact for drilling holes. When I’m drilling, precision and clean exit holes are very important. I want a consistent rotation and torque level. But both are valuable and should be bought together…. But if you have to buy only one, you need the drill!

[@cashkenazipiano]

Thanks for this. Not to “Well actually”, but cam-out can happen at any torque setting and is perhaps more likely an issue of bit-drive fitment and/or also angle of attack (angling the centre of driver rotation out of parallel to the screw shank); the bit hence slips out of the drive in the screw head and does its best blender impression on the poor softer metal of the screw.

[@bluenorthwoodworking]

I am embarrassed at how little I knew about drills and drivers before watching this haha, thanks Johnny!

[@lessconroy]

"new swedish masterpiece" :) this made my day!

[@ralphhoney5334]

Living in Canada , most people use the Robertson screw head. 'Square' hole and MUCH better at reducing ruining a Screw Head under pressure. Not sure if they are used much in US but maybe you should do a video on the comparison between Phillips Head and Robertson Head screws. Of course almost all drywall screws are Phillips Head but we manage!

[@johnrehwinkel7241]

I learned about Robertson heads building sets in theater. Here in the states, we generally just get square drive, which is similar but avoids some expensive licensing issues. I get mine from McFeelys, good quality stuff. Another advantage is you can just stick the screw on the end of the bit and put it where you want, it'll tend to stay there and not fall off. They also were a minor plot element in the animated film The Mitchells vs The Machines.

[@robgoffroad]

I love my Ridgid stuff. And I have both drill and driver. Heck, I have three of their drills because I'm lazy... one has a drill bit, one has a driver bit, and the third one has... something else. FWIW I don't really use the driver when wood working; I use it for putting on and removing nuts from bolts.

[@pixie99]

Thanks for your great descriptions. Cheers

[@FewerOptions-mx7qt]

I have both. Impact driver imo doesnt break things as easily but hammer drill is so much better at drilling in concrete. I like dewalt best because its most popular so if you could borrow a battery from a co-worker if yours dies.

[@MatthewSeratti]

I knew all this and yet I enjoyed the entire video. Well done sir.

[@prerecordedresponse9884]

There's nothing wrong with buying multiple brands too. I buy both Red and Green for different tasks. My drill/driver is a brushless Milwaukee kit because I want them to last for ages. But I'm also not afraid to buy Ryobi for some of the tools that are only used twice a year at half the price. Brand loyalty is dumb. Buy what works for you.

[@saltcharm]

The kit bags are for when you give someone a tool and a battery or two

[@gardenstate235]

the last part is so true, i thought i'm the only one, i will lose the drill but still have the back

[@Jordan.Vaughn]

Thanks man. Will be coming back to this a lot

[@blahdiblah2169]

Good info on impact rated bits. Didn't know they existed.

[@Huey52123]

I've owned the quintessential Makita 18V pair of Drill & Driver almost since their initial offering. I've used the drill 99-44/100% of the time (for both drilling and driving). 😉

[@richardhutchins240]

I broke both impact & non-impact rated bits & bit boots in a 1/4” hex Rigid 18v impact driver. Some breakage with the Rigid 18V drill on max torque too.

[@ThisRandomGuyYouDidntNotice]

same goes for impact driver and drill hammers... I mean I know nobody would use a drill hammer to change tires but I've seen many try to drill holes in concrete with an impact 🤷‍♂ anyway thanks for another clarification hope it helps somebody

[@JulienB_BTW]

You've convinced me. I'm buying a Impact/drill combo from Festool.

[@Lincolnstww]

😂

[@CB-os4lf]

I thought milwaukee was expensive lol

[@mullingreen8370]

Lmao

[@ruraloregon2347]

😂🤣😂🤣

[@OreoBambino]

The electric clutch on the Festool visibly jerked your wrist each time. I actually felt pain in my wrist just by watching it. Can't be good for your hand if you are doing this a 100 or a 1000 times a day like in professional use... So, this makes me understand why pros prefer the mechanical clutch as you said!

[@timcottom8397]

I have a floor to ceiling shelf that is full of empty cases!!! I really do enjoy your channel. Timothy

[@MaryEscalante-v1w]

You always know how to make things understandable!

[@marlinstudio.]

great video. The usual amount of fact and Lincoln St. Wit. makes for an informative and entertaining watch. Personally I use the drill to drill and the impact to drive screws. With practice on the trigger the impact can be controlled to a limit. For screws in to flat pack furniture I use either the impact or a ratchet screw driver.

[@saiiiiiii1]

It's easy if you're a european = drill, if you're an american = driver 🤣

[@TheChico868]

Delicate work. Drill with clutch

[@emmettturner9452]

I still wonder why no one has ever made a drill/driver bundle with assorted drill and driver bits. I get that their profit comes from follow-up sales but that’s mostly other tools for the battery line since there is nothing forcing you to stay with the same brand for a bit set. It seems that the first to do that with a Black Friday bundle will get all the new power tool customers.

[@Dave-ct1jk]

I bought the mulwaukee m12 combo kit for my woodworking and round the house tools. I find the bag very useful for holding my charger and drill/driver bits. So I just grab the bag and go to where im working

[@chrismoore6359]

Why are you calling me out with the bad/case?!!??! Good video: thanks. I love to have both for the reason you said at the end: have one for drilling holes and the other for driving the facet.

[@richardjames3121]

Just to add to the confusion my most used Makitas have ended up being the pair of DDF083 which is a drill but with a quick change hex chuck as per the impact driver. On paper it's less power, less torque etc but upto 3" screws it is fine for power and with a set of hex drill bits to hand really versatile and fast. Of course, when you need to drive 6" screws straight in the impact comes back out!

[@VantasticPacifica]

Man, that was exactly what I needed to know but was too ashamed to ask!😀

[@thomasholt9202]

Nice job!! Clear and efficient!!

[@SYBEX21]

Love this video thx! I worked at Lowe's for 4 years inthe tools dept. and I had the question of "which is the best" and that often related to I want to show off how much money I have not which one is actually the best. I often gave the advice of you are buying a battery system because they are not interchangable. Look at the complete tool line to see were you might expand into later. I love Dewalt (I got a discount at the store were I worked to buy my line of tools). But in my personal opinion the M18 line is the most complete line of tooling for DIY home-car-trade tools. Drill or Driver? Wait til November most box stores will have the combo sets on discount for the holidays.

[@mm9773]

My decision-making was strictly practical when I chose the system: 1. Least annoying colour 2. Best line of tools for my needs So I went with Makita, especially because some of their stuff comes in black. Also because their gardening tools are pretty good, but that was a lucky bonus.

[@SYBEX21]

@@mm9773 Thats a valid reason(s). Buy what you need.

[@MistandSmoke]

I changed back to drills after getting tired of needing ear protection just for driving in screws. For small screws I don't see much advantage using a driver. Except less change for stripping. I see that.

[@david2go13]

Could you update the Milwaukee drill/driver combo link. It points to the Makita link.

[@alberteinstein5421]

When I'm drilling into wood with larger bits while on a ladder, I like to drill with the clutch active and on a medium setting, so the drill doesn't throw me off the ladder, should the bit get stuck^^

[@iangregoryhome]

I noticed a little kick when the festools clutch kicked in.

[@ComeonmenID10T]

a little FYI after you tighten the Chuck and hear the Clicking Noise, rotate the chuck about half a turn back, you will feel a slight "jump" in it ........ that means you just LOCKED the chuck in place and whatever tool you have in it will NOT COME LOSE

[@Lincolnstww]

That turned out to be an urban legend of sorts. Someone did a video on it recently and contacted the 2 biggest manufacturers of chucks for drills. It’s not true. No need to turn it back on - not designed that way. Was a very interesting video.

[@ComeonmenID10T]

@@Lincolnstww well i have the drill and the driver from Milwaukee and this feature certainly appears on the drill, doing it myself every time i use it and it hasn't failed me yet

[@tnbourne]

Nah I need both. Sometimes the drill is too large to fit in a tight space. If I could only have one I'd choose the impact driver every single time. Yes, you can strip screws or bust off heads, but only if you're not paying attention

[@ruraloregon2347]

Good explainations and graphics. Good choice of detail. 👍

[@Suicaedere666]

Beautiful video, very well done and informative with a little Lincoln Street flare💜 Keep up the great work brother🙌⚡️🙌

[@0xbaadf00d]

If you want to have the screws at the same depth, adjust the setting so that it doesn't quite reach the desired depth, then use the drill as a screwdriver to tighten it to perfect depth. At least my drill locks up so you can do this.

[@officialtree5245]

I use my largest dewalt tool bag to house my smaller tool bag and all my safety manuals/instructions. Very helpful, especially for the table saw.

[@thekiwinomad]

I have the Makita xgt drill and driver. They are fantastic. The drill has an electric clatch with multiple different settings and the driver as four different speed settings. The only thing I can say is that the driver is pretty over powered for some jobs e.g. cabinet making. Often I use an electric screwdriver for the finer install work. I do want one of the Milwaukee M12 installation drivers but I'm not paying $700 for one (new Zealand prices).

[@raymonddonovan3297]

Just an anecdote, I have never seen a 1/4” impact driver shatter a bit before, impact rated or not. I do my work assuming impact rated 1/4” bits are snake oil. I will update if I ever regret this.

[@petrsidlo7614]

same here, granted I mostly use a drill since I mostly use smaller fasteners and pre drill everything, and having a clutch is more important to me than having more power to drive the screw. but specialty bit for impact always seemed a bit unnecessary.

[@WyldfireKeeper]

I have. The entire head of the bit broke off right at the first shoulder. Granted, it was a cheap Chinese made Torx bit that came with something that I bought. But it can happen. I do think it is very rare though.

[@Lincolnstww]

@@WyldfireKeeper that was my experience too. Like you said, doesn’t happen often

[@cncgeneral]

My milwaukee m18 fuel impact driver snaps bits quite frequently

[@oliver299d]

I've shattered plenty of them over the years, in fact I have noticed that the name brand ones seem to shatter more than the cheap ones for whatever reason.

[@BlindSquirrelBuilds]

This was very helpful!

[@MR-si1eq]

I gotta say that I agree about 99% with your opinion or comments agout this. I do like staying with one battery. As for which one? I will go by dependability. Light weight? Not always. Price does play a part. Sometimes buying 2 tools separately is cheaper than a combo. But lately they have had some pretty good deals. Love your channel and attitude. Sarcasm ❤

[@Kithas]

When buying impacts especially you want to look at the rpm and torque specs, not just brand or newness. There is a ton of variance within brands and you don't want to waste money on a much worse tool.

[@tedmich]

Nice vid! The Milwaukee bag is INFINITELY more useful than a fitted plastic case. Also the silly Festool eye candy drill kind of negates your later voiced utilitarian concerns ;)