Liqui moly engine flush big mistake or myth?

liqui moly engine flush bad idea? (Proof) or neccessary why you shouldn't use motor flush because the buildup can be extremely harmful to a modern engine. but stp engine flush isn't safe just watch the video. we also show how to use motor flush and how to flush your engine!
for more information on liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below.
amzn.to/2ZL3kSH
be sure to watch our previous videos where we use seafoam motor treatment to clean the inside of your engine. marvel mystery oil can also work great as one of the best engine cleaner. so follow us as we try to find the best engine oil flush. how to use motor medic motor flush. can flushing your engine be harmful? is flushing your engine a bad idea? car repair and car diy with the NIA community. xado atomex total flush revitalizant tested previous. with before and after.
#liquimoly #Nia #stp

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

For more information on Liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below. amzn.to/2LjbehZ

[@msaqib79bzu]

Dear please share is there any hazard of using liqui moly engine flush in car engine?

[@abdullahahmed5516]

Is there any damage to the old engine

[@seangowan7441]

Should I flush the engine again with oil after I use engine flush to remove the remaining solvents in the crankcase from the engine flush?

[@ShortStuff0000]

@@msaqib79bzu you

[@swaggerjacker1482]

@@seangowan7441it’s not mentioned on the bottle but others on the internet recommend after using this and drain oil, use a cheap oil and filter and drive a few miles or a day and then change oil/filter to what you want to use

[@LRflex]

The video had the tone of an intro through out the whole thing lmao

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Thanks for watching

[@kaelanburke2097]

Right?

[@dubswagen]

Haha, true.. keeps us watching though

[@JimJoquico]

This is the only way to describe the narration on this channel 🤣

[@iivarimokelainen]

This, it was so weird when it ends and it feels like it didn't even start

[@samspace81]

Should have spent more time on the after

[@TGtonk]

But there was 1 second of footage! I wonder if he left it in... It's a flush that should be done right before changing the oil... Compression after new oil is the real test... Not that I care about compression... But the build up I do... It's just kerosene anyway

[@10SecondZ06]

Very disappointing to watch all that and the big reveal was 1 second long and he didn’t even say if he liked it.

[@TheLolacat1]

been using many liqui moly products for many years..including the flush.. i have a 94 xj jeep sport with 380,000 miles.. same engine. same transmission..had compression test about a year ago..thumbs up..i give alot of credit to their products... my jeep runs and looks fabulous..and no... its not for sell...

[@jaynikk758]

Wow! My 2004 Jaguar XJR turns 200k miles soon, going to use Ceratec + Mos2 this next oil change -oil was changed with Liqui Moly High Tec

[@TheLolacat1]

@@jaynikk758Hope you get same results as well. Ive had my jeep since 96 and I feel their products have helped along the way.🙂

[@masterdriveroftoyotazupr4164]

No one wants to buy your shitty Jeep 😂

[@skippygirl959]

Then I'm here cause my xj with 121k miles has low oil pressure

[@bm_wuratli6883]

that mean nothing it's depend if u do interval oil correctly imagine a guy never doing interval oil and always jumping one sometime then liquid poly gonna kills ur engine but in same way for engine who has already clean interval oil every time why using liquid moly in first place? it's make no sense right? same for cleaner valve to put in essence some contry work because they don't put addictif in my case my country put already addictif in essence pétrol so u don't need valve cleaner at all* this is why interval oil requirement is important for testing oil comparaison if u mtal has highest or not if it's high u should reduce interval oil a bit early like 1k or 2k km max

[@iConceptPhones]

I also used liqui Molly engine flush and checked before using it and compared it after using it. It helps!

[@jacquesbotha3923]

I use this flush at my shop all the time, very good product, never had a single issue.

[@montisino]

Hey Jacques is this liqui moly engine flush good for a car that been sitting in garage for 7 years??

[@jacquesbotha3923]

@@montisino it is, but be sure to use another product from them called "Motor Oil Saver" after the flush. You add it in with the new oil. It will keep the seals from drying out.

[@v12-s65]

@@jacquesbotha3923 I have a vw passat b7 2.0tdi with 292'000km. I'm looking to flush the engine at around 300'000km and add some ceratec to it. Car has had an oil change every 15'000km and is belt driven... shouldn't harm it? I don't have oil consumption at all

[@eponymous7910]

​@@v12-s65 if it ain't broke... don't fix it. You'd be mad to flush a well maintained engine at that mileage imo

[@v12-s65]

@@eponymous7910 yeah I've chosen otherwise. I'm not flushing anything. Car has surpassed 300'000km now. Oil changes are enough every 15'000km

[@Elaba_]

Don't use this product if you bought a car with a neglected engine. All that gunk gets released too fast. Just change your oil more frequently to even out the process.

[@SUPERNVA-gr4sr]

Agreed

[@lithgowlights859]

What we did was 5 short oil changes (2500km on a 14 year old car with close to 250,000km on it and oil blacker than a cave on a moonless night) The first oil change was black, the second was what I'd consider dirty, but not too bad. The 3rd change was 1/2 strength liquid moly for 15 minutes at the end of the 2500km run, before which the oil was actually not too bad, being slightly dirty, but still a dark amber color, but after the liquid moly was added the oil was blacker than the first change, but not "gritty". I repeated this after another 2500km, and the oil was initially much cleaner, probably similar to my 4 year old car with 80,000km, but after the liquid moly it was pretty dirty. The final full strength flush 2500km later was a little scary it was so black, and after that flush we did pour 1 litre of oil through to flush out the gunk in the oil pan before replacing the drain plug. but then we returned to the standard 10,000km oil changes and the oil comes out dark, but still with a definite amber/oil tint, so yes it got rid of a lot of buildup, but also caused the engine to use a slightly larger volume of oil between changes, maybe 300ml per 10,000km, vs being maybe 100ml low (So much we never bothered filling it). The engine did sound a lot quieter, with no tappet noise at all

[@RedHead.GearHead]

@@lithgowlights859 it probably used more oil because the gunk was cleared out and there was more clearance for the oil to escape or get by the rings and such. Just like if you use a solvent or cleaner to clear out the combustion chamber it lowers the compression. The build up is cleared out and the combustion technically gets larger with out all the buildup

[@eoghanhennessy443]

I had this happen seized the engine in 5 minute of puting it in

[@videos-for-friends]

Exactly my case. Looked into engine cleaners and before I even put anything in the motor I went about 3 oil changes every 2,500 miles

[@paulstein7369]

LiquiMoly products have never failed to provide what they claim. From a 1979 MarkV 400cleveland to a 2012 PriusV, 2012 Acura TSX wagon, 2006 Accord 2.4L K series, never a problem, upped economy, performance upgraded.

[@lancegallant3647]

Excellent to know thanks Bro own a 2006 actra tl 2012 acura tsx and a b7 audi rs4 so awsome I can use on all my cars 🚗!!

[@whalesong999]

Some years back, I had occasion to use an engine flush and the results were good. It was a 1991 Pontiac GA with the 2.5 engine with 107k miles and one morning after taking it on a 3000 mile trip, the engine started with a very sharp knock but kept running. When it warmed, the knock was less severe and to me it suggested a varnish problem, probably a wrist pin. I flushed per the directions and refilled with a different brand of 5w30 oil and the knock wasn't there any longer. Sold the car just a year ago with over 240k miles and the engine was quiet with very low oil consumption. It's important to see to refreshing the oil changes once it's been flushed but in the long run, it's a good treatment.

[@TrippyWoodStock]

Time to try it out my man I’m convinced. Trying to save a 96 5.7 Chevy engine

[@TrippyWoodStock]

260k miles 5.7 with liquid moly, drained all the gunk, pulled the pan and scraped the residue off and put it back. She runs with more compression now and 5-10% more throttle. Yes it does infact work! Let idle 15 mins before changing oil don’t rev or drive truck with the stuff in your oil just idle.

[@ChrisGR93_TxS]

something tells me you like guns and trucks

[@marekbarabasz5322]

A useless test proves nothing. what were you expecting? that you will have a clean engine like from the factory? If you were to take care of this engine it would be like from the factory.

[@VenturiLife]

Engine oil flushes work well with a good product. There's no doubt. It will get more of the gunk and varnish out. Changing the oil while warm also mobilizes more of the old oil out of the system. Liqui Moly probably consists mainly of light naptha. Something like Stoddard solvent; (Mineral spirits, 85% nonane and 15% trimethyl benzene. This solvent thins out the oil, so you don't want to leave it in there, or put the engine under much load, so idling is correct to avoid any metal contact. The oil will become very thin and viscous and 15 minutes or so of idling will break down the lumps and varnish, allowing a better flush when you drain it, getting more of the old oil out also. As you state, it's not an excuse to not maintain your engine regularly and perform oil changes, but is a preventative measure to prevent build-up and varnish that can impact engine operation and wear it out prematurely. Hopefully an engine oil flush extends the life of your engine, and for the cost, avoiding you thousands in repairs down the road, it's probably worthwhile.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Wow very thorough information this is exactly what we need in the NIA community to help each other.

[@stevegarcia1796]

This was extremely helpful thank you 👀👌

[@sundhukumar]

well said.....its only engine idling after pouring liquimoly, strictly no load.......Nevertheless NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO done a good job,

[@christophervanzetta]

@mark peterson Bingo! There is no magic product, just lack of maintenance

[@rajZ772]

Can i use the flush on a 2011 toyota etios diesel engine? Some people say that you should not flush old engines as they are sealed by the sludge and carbon it self, and if you flush it, then it will start to leak.

[@qtechgr]

NEVER run your engine hard with Liqui moly engine flush !!!! its on the instructions!!!

[@jonathangarzon2798]

Does this have hydraulic lifters? That's what's the problem from what I've heard is the lifter passageways getting blocked

[@GripGarage]

Exactly but no body will answer to this because it’s true 😉

[@anon8613]

No my car is perfectly fine

[@vmmramos]

Where did the goo go ?

[@louisporter8761]

I used this product on a NC mx-5 1.8 that had covered 80,000 miles. Two years later having added 20,000 to it and it felt smoother and oil consumption over that period was nil. I was impressed.

[@elixier33]

Not trying to discredit but I think that was just placebo.

[@JGrindel]

I found this video while researching whether or not to flush my MZR 1,8 in my mx5 (98k) at its next oil change.

[@DiyNuke]

@@JGrindel you could pop open the valvecover (install a new gasket) if its all black then maybe it could be done. but normaly when the oil is changed often enough/is still clean then it shouldnt be needed at all. my peugeot 205 1,1 with 173k is still pretty much completly clean. its all the light brown/amber oil color no black at all. and only thing which has been done is an yearly oil change

[@gordonmadrid1938]

This stuff actually saved my motor. Had terrible 10psi oil pressure at idle and lifter knock and ran through so many things of what it could be. Did this as a last ditch effort and it's never drops below 35psi at idle now. This stuff does work but should only be used if having problems like I did.

[@juhasznandor6349]

What oil to flush mixture ratio did you use? (I’m having the same issue - nc1 1.8mzr 130k km)

[@Corbots80]

Its not the strongest engine flush you can use. More of a maintenance thing. Definitely safe. But dont expect it to free up stuck rings

[@GainingDespair]

Don't just don't if a motor has been neglected than that's a problem this is a bandaid not intended as a fix if the motor is seriously slugged you don't have much to gain and a lot to lose. All that crude will break off, where does it go from there? Inside the motors oil passages, into the main bearings and probably worst of all the oil pump catch screen. This may liquify slugs to an extent but it will not remain in that form for long, these are alcohol based products, the evaporate at room temp (to a degree) a fully warmed up motor is more than enough to evaporate it and what left after a oil change will harden back up. Focus think sludge is only a bad thing but it does have some benefits as it will quiet a loud motor and will also junk up worn out gaskets, if you use something like this the end result could very well be a loud, ticking, leaky mess (which originally existed I will admit) but with the sludge that settles removed from said gaskets causing any previously existing damage to become more obvious (like increased oil leaks). Theres just not a lot to gain, motor oil has a ton of detergent in it the way it is if you have a problem simply change the oil more often that is by far the safest bet the stuff is intended to clean. Best case someone uses this on a motor in good condition to remove some slight varnish, no major sludge exists to be removed so no fear of clogging the oil pump catch screen however there isn't much to gain from this best case either. If you do use this please follow up with a short oil change even if you buy the cheapest oil you can find and run it for 200-300 miles to help flush any remaining lose sludge out it will be worth the added time (assuming you're doing your own oil change).

[@JT_8283]

Well said

[@faridlc4713]

i agree with you... like in malaysia, EO like shell advance ax7(semi synthetic 10W/40) has it own active cleansing technology in it engine oil... for motorcycle 😁😁 what say you?

[@qwertasdf7131]

All respect I buoght one but, result are same or u can say worst. I am from iraq and coast of this is 17$ and from authorized agent

[@zokieboi]

Why Liqui Moly says leave the engine to idle is because it is a detergent, not a lubricant. Oil's ability to lubricate is decreased with this additive, but cleaning ability is greatly increased, so running it at load can in worst case harm the engine.

[@44125]

Where does all the gunk go?

[@mustang2433]

Amsoil engine flush next

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Coming very soon

[@jakecole7447]

as a mechanic - you can use this. but use it as a economic way to keep a car that has been neglected running. A Engine thats been kept in its intervals and got a oil change every 10k miles shouldnt have that much oil coal buildup anyways.

[@billisbobagis1687]

Nice work. Regardless of what the counter person at autozone from the comments say, your video was to the point and it does work. It’s a shame that people who changed their oil one time and think they’re a mechanic chime in and talk trash.

[@tvdinner325]

These engines don't have a filter. All of that crap is now being forced through oil passages.

[@squidvis]

@@tvdinner325 Who gives a FUCK?!

[@chopperb019]

@@tvdinner325 nor do they have an oil pump. They sling the oil around the crankcase. It's not pumped though any passages.

[@BoutThatAction]

Bro I've changed mine about 7 times bro I think I know what what I'm talkin about

[@Str8UpL4zy]

@@BoutThatAction yeah bro same

[@AdolfHitler-uv5oe]

Taking a torch to the OHV assembly: Goodbye valve seals

[@aundershallsten8412]

I have an 02 Audi 2.7t. I put this exact product in at 190,000 miles when I bought it. It is now at 258,000 miles and running strong.

[@TrukNLife316]

Wow I’m about to really invest in products like these. Own the car and as long as you take care of the car the car itself will treat you and your family nice and won’t cost much money. I’m the type of guy that will run my car until it gives up. My 2010 Kia is at 220k and still running strong just did oil change and fuel treatment on every oil change as well, synthetic oil keeps my cars engine smooth and quiet as possible. Engine air filters and cabin filters changed when it’s visually can’t see the sun from the other side.

[@samueleputzu9416]

@@TrukNLife316 you should change the engine air filter more frequently in my opinion. A lot of wear comes from dirty air

[@v12-s65]

@@TrukNLife316 I used diesel additives for my dad's evoque (200'000km) from liqui moly, it runs quieter now.

[@hamudified7663]

My concern is the rubber seals

[@Meekmillan]

Got my car @ 50K miles and used this every other oil change. No idea how well the car was taken care of before me outside the 5K mile oil changes but after the first flush it idled smoother imo. I haven’t had any engine problems yet @ 100K miles

[@ratspeedgarage]

So it even cleans the area under the rubber gasket under the cam cover. I smell something.......

[@elonmusk8667]

Im getting this right now! Thanks for the video!

[@reesemartin3285]

Honestly if it's just I little run to flush it out completely it ain't a bad idea. I know old mechanics who put a little diesel into the oil after draining a little. And then running it. Then do a change it cleans alot of the unburnt carbon build up in your engine. And actually add to the life.

[@markphilpot4981]

Got rid of a lot of the gunk. Pictures tell the story and confirm the results. Not a myth for this product, it gets a thumbs up!

[@MudOilnGears]

The problem is, that the gunk ends up in the oil passages and can clog them. Not as much of a problem on an engine such as this that is splash lubed.

[@MudOilnGears]

@@KolaAlade-li5db it has to circulate before it can get to the filter.

[@martinsantillan2538]

I DOES WORKS WONDERS!! I ALWAYS DO IT TO MY MERCEDS DIESEL(w123) IT FEEL GRAT AFTERWARDS!

[@najib9380]

Martin Santillan i was looking for someone using it for diesel and here ur , thanks 🙏

[@mercedesbenzs600bash]

I might try it on my Mercedes Benz S420 with 210,000 miles,it runs but not as good as it should....

[@conniekai]

most engine oil now days are contained detergent, so just change engine oil regulary will help to keep your engine clean.

[@bmwchannel7209]

Liquimolly flush is awesome. I use it on every single vehicle I work on and/or own.

[@kwbalance108]

Have you used it on a modern turbocharged engine as well?

[@bmwchannel7209]

@@kwbalance108 yes. All the time both stock and upgraded turbos.

[@sujatmikoafandi]

Is that any side effect such as males your rubber seals in the engine become corrosive?

[@bmwchannel7209]

@@sujatmikoafandi no. As a matter of fact, liquimoly flush specifically has conditioners to replenish and keep your rubber seal healthy so they don’t crack. And changing oil frequently at 3-4k miles prevents them from leaking for considerably longer times. This is important especially in BMWs because these drivers ignore the oil changes for 10-15k miles which leads to leaks in so many of the BMWs & then these cars get a bad reputation. In reality, BMW is no more prone to leaking than Japanese cars that are known for their reliability. Japanese cars have very low power output so their mechanicals are not subject to performance level stress so they don’t get leaks and issues… BMWs are performance vehicles so the stresses in parts are two to three times higher tham Japanese low powered cars.

[@allyouneedtorelax]

however pros and cons are still there about this product, to be honest I'm still not sure to use it on my car

[@nicks3608]

If it's not broke, don't fix it. You can loosen up too much gunk, which can get caught in oil passages. Even worse if you have a turbo with thin lines for oil to run through, those can clog right up.

[@allyouneedtorelax]

​@@nicks3608 make sense

[@fredjones554]

Nice work. And you let the pictures speak for themselves. Classy

[@skatehero7703]

I did not believe in such products. This video changed my mind a bit. if the problem is can it remove the older remnants?

[@busterscrugs]

Seems to work pretty damn well.

[@coolimpala71]

yeah saw video on auction auto saab oil pressure problem and valves rattle. he bought it and ran ,, problem solved

[@oojimmyflip]

never use any engine flush on hydraulic tappet engines, Ive seen quite a few vauhall engines damaged by engine flush, you might as well put parrafin/kersoene in your engine. loosening carbon deposits and depositing them in bearings and bushings engine flush can do a lot of expensive damage, you were correct in your video saying that two oil changes are better,most lawn mowers are pretty bomb prrof engines not having half the technology of vechicle engines , this is not really a fair test there is no comparison between a single cylinder lawn mower engine and a car engine.

[@jett-rampartflyer2852]

I like how you structure your presentation, very nicely done. I would've liked to see the Liquid Moly run longer than that, for cleaning purposes, but whatever.. u did a great job, thank you!

[@juru552]

thats why its better to change your oil more often If your engine looks like this inside its to late for any kind of magic...

[@iShavegr]

After doing some internet research about the Liqui Moly Engine flush I desided to give it a try. Just had my regular oil change in an Alfa Romeo 156 Twin Spark and wow! Engine runs MUCH smoother than before! Obviously is impossible to see the difference in a closed engine but you can really hear and feel it! Even my mechanic was impressed from the result! Just make sure to leave it on a idle engine for 10 minutes, then drain the oil and change the filter and finally top up with the new fresh oil. Such a nice product! Highly recommend

[@BagusWibisono]

How if liqui moly vs STP engine flush?

[@iShavegr]

@@BagusWibisono Liqui Moly Pro Line is the better option

[@BagusWibisono]

@@iShavegr the liqui engine flush it was did really well?

[@iShavegr]

@@BagusWibisono don't expect to see any visual difference. For sure you will hear and feel the difference though after the oil change. Everything will run much more smoothly. Specially if you do the procedure after the second oil change. Think of it as having a shower with and without soap 😂 Also if you go to a premium service center like porsche lexus etc they always use an engine flush before the oil change. Just make sure to leave it enough time to drain before you screw back the oil pan plug.

[@BagusWibisono]

@@iShavegr thanks my friend

[@dstanley069]

I have a 2006 Chevy suburban that started smoking at about 200,000 miles thought that I had a major problem seen This flush thing that it was made in Germany and decided to give it a test after the first bottle the smoking went away on start up and now I use the additives and the liquid flush every oil change and I’ve noticed my oil pressure being better and my oil consumption being down I have 262,000 miles on it now and it runs like a top

[@maxh4782]

Dont use it too much you’ll eat away your seals and gaskets because of the concentration of detergent

[@MarcelloTheBandit]

When I got my car with 77,060 miles on it, I had read the owner's manual and found out that the dealership had only used conventoinal 10w40 oil on a 7500 mile oil change interval after I had been doing 3000 mile oil changes and still having thick pieces of carbon flakes fill up the bottom of my oil filter housing. Turns out a Volvo S60 doesn't like conventional oil unless it is the most basic model without variable valve timing and without a turbocharger. I used this Pro-Line engine flush for about 25 minutes instead of the recommended 10 (?) and when I changed the oil, it started as Castrol Edge 10w30, but became something closer to the color of road tar, but not as thick. After that, I used their Liechtlauf 5w40 and was surprised to see that after 4000 miles, it was still golden yellow, but at 6000 miles, it was a honey color. Once my VVT solenoids went out and I replaced them, I looked in my head and the aluminum was coated in amber yellow like it only had 6000 miles on it to begin with. I have used Castrol Edge 5w30, 10w30, 5w40, 0w40, Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w40, 5w30, 10w30, Rotella T5 10w30, Rotella T6 5w40, 0w40, and Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40, Moly-Gen 10w40, MOS2 10w40, and Top-Tec 4200 5w30 and so far the only oils that doesn't give me any carbon flakes from high heat and stress are the Rotella T6 oils and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40 and MOS2 10w40. I've begun using this now for all my friends who don't understand proper oil changes and even they can notice a smoother running, more efficient engine.

[@SALTrips]

Thank you. I will keep note of this.

[@200130769]

Thanks bro for your comment

[@tiniegrace]

Thanks for sharing.

[@PC-nq3ru]

So the new Molygen from liqui moly wasn't that good?

[@dzdhandzcan816]

Reslone & seafood works GREAT 🏆

[@seyed7705]

Can you do the same thing but with seafoam now

[@markitoxi]

Seo Specialist nice idea!

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

I already did thank you

[@kllgrogto5838]

If it is safe why are you doing it in a lawn mower instead of your own car?

[@mercedesvan-doors34]

I've been working at engine large and small for 40 years including building some high performance small capacity bike engines for classic racing. Engine flushing oils should be considered like this: On a high mileage worn engine carbon built up in the rings might be actually helping keep a little compression by acting as a sort of seal in the ring groove. Removing this is not a great idea. In a newer low mileage engine that has had poor oil maintenance and is sludged up but isn't badly worn then they are a good idea they can re open restricted oilways remove sludge that hinders oil movement and help speed up oil drain down back to the pan, all good things. lastly on a newer engine which has had good maintenance and is not sludged you're wasting money buying it.

[@tontobb8956]

My mechanic says exactly the same thing They build standard and high performance donks for clients. 50k for engines in some cases And that’s what they said to me also. Old engine. Change oil regularly. Newer engines. U can do it. Dragging all that crud through just destroys and engine in no time

[@Wayno228]

That's the problem I'm dealing with I have a 06 Silverado with 300k and it didnt have regular old changes in it until I got it and there is a lifter tapping in it and the oil pressure is a little low but not much all the videos I been watching say transmission fluid flush bit I just dont have very good luck lol

[@mercedesvan-doors34]

@@Wayno228 What oil are you using

[@Wayno228]

@@mercedesvan-doors34 I use Castrol 10 40 high mileage

[@mercedesvan-doors34]

@@Wayno228 Consider doing a 'milder flush' as follows. At the next change drop the oil and add new filter, fill it with a 5-30 semi synth and run it for a week or so especially on a long run so nice and hot but watch you oil pressure just in case. After this drop this oil and replace with the usual and another new filter. I'd add Engine Restore with the new oil. I work mainly on old Jags and this can have a noticeable effect on smoothness of the high mileage ones.

[@nicholkid]

Now I'm convinced to try this on my 06 altima

[@John-uj9zy]

Liqui Moly is a reputable German Motor Oil company. I really doubt any of their products will harm your engine if used as directed. Last time I checked Liqui Moly makes OEM oil for VW; the world's largest auto maker.

[@ВячеславПортнягин-ъ9э]

Я из России тоже заливаю vw polo sedan Ликви молли,у нас много поддельного масла в стране,я за рулем 35 лет меняю масла сам,но полностью масло не сливается через пробку при смене 300 грамм остается примерно и оно смешивается с новым маслом при замене

[@1gerard47]

That's not a compliment, v/w have went downhill since the eighties ,too many sensors and electronics,why use additives when their supposed engineering is so good?Would love some comments on vw.

[@user-mi4yc7pr3x]

Vw is the company that lied emissions? Oh yeah it is. And it is also reputable German company? Yes right

[@onlinemoneysecrets4887]

It does remove impurities, but where does it go? I did the operation, the oil pump was clogged, and then the engine stopped and was completely worn out due to the clogging of the oil pump in my car. GOLF 6 GTD

[@nathanwest2304]

I think it works great I used xado total flush(wich you run for 150 miles) and then liqui moly engine flush and got a good bit of power back, I also observed lower fuel consumption and lower oil consumption, I actually didn't have to top it off between oil changes on a high milage engine.

[@dacel88]

Well, the algorytm has blessed me - So as a mechanic allow me to shred some facts upon you on additives. Adding an additive like this will indeed clean the engine as you see here, Problem is when you add it to the engine oil, the lubricating abilities of the oil gets reduced and you also change the viscocity of the oil (viscosity being rather important to maintain correct oil pressure). Now in a lawnmower engine i doubt it'll have much effect but in modern cars, prolonged useage with additives in the oil can cause serious damage. Especially now that the piston rod bearings have been replaced, They used to be constructed from lead, but due to enviormental rules blabla they're made from a less toxic metal, Wich sadly is damaged easier. There is also the question on wether or not such additives will cause damage to gaskets and internal o-rings in the engine. ( i.e an engine oil cooler if your car has that)

[@svhshshs7567]

You just need to make sure you change your oil on a regular basis

[@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi]

Stripping the oil of internal components is not a good thing if the engine is running. Pulling it apart and stripping it ok fair enough but if you use this stuff it strips the oil off stuff, meaning lack of lubrication.

[@FabianCharrua]

I have used this cleaner for years and I trust it 100%. As a matter of fact at times I have changed the oil on my car and after couple hundred miles I go back and just change the oil filter and it still has sludge that was cleaned by this stuff. I have written back and forth with LM engineers in Germany and Im sold in all of their products. As long as they sell this stuff I will buy it.

[@bme7491]

Not that it's "not safe", but if you change your oil regularly, you don't need it. This isn't the 1950's, today's motor oils contain detergents and regular changes will prevent sludge. My 2002 Highlander with 260,000 mi. is spotless.

[@bobb9278]

is that the 2az-fe engine Highlander? Those engines had bad piston heads.

[@bme7491]

@@bobb9278 Mine is the "1MZ-FE " and runs like the day I bought it.

[@ldotmurray]

I've been using this product on my two Benzs for over 4 years now. I also use it on my clients' cars as well. I don't measure it. I pour the entire bottle in and run it. I use it if it is my first time working on the vehicle. I use a high quality oil. At the end I add Liqui Moly Cera Tec. Cars love this stuff.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Very good i enjoy hearing what this product does for others good or bad people need to know.

[@izkytama]

What benz?i have 95 w124 and want to do engine flush..is it save?

[@ldotmurray]

I have an 02 ML500 and an 03 E320. I have used the engine flush in Ameican, Japanese, and European cars.

[@jaynikk758]

@@izkytama yes it is safe, I use Liqui Moly in my 03 Camry with 215k miles on it, still has 190-195 psi compression it runs incredibly

[@M1LAD81]

Did it work? 😶‍🌫️

[@michaelperrin4978]

The after photo looks suspect to me. Why is the oil more prevalent in hard to reach places (around rocker nut)?

[@rackbites]

Yup ... this is one giant advert ...

[@wiseguy0103]

First warm up your engine, put the flush in the warmed up oil, let it run idle about 20 minutes then drain it. Refill it with new cheap oil run it again or drive it warm slowly and drain it again. At last put new quality oil and a new filter and your engine will love you again ,😇😂

[@socialghost4400]

I see what looks like scraping marks on the rocker arms in the after picture....also I don’t see any outline from the gasket or any difference from the surfaces where the gasket was....something just seems off about the after picture

[@Freddy-zy5uy]

True

[@MindDezign]

Would you just be quiet don't spook the sheeple, and just buy the affiliate marketing product, they had to mow their LAWN to do this test for YOU, can you give them some slack ,and stop being so critical ? Geesh ! Now be quiet and check out the product in their discription !

[@TheOne214]

well it did clean it but i dont think its worth it on a used car or a car with a high mileage

[@LuisA-fc3ox]

So what was the conclusion ?

[@aatkama5908]

Yes it wonder the same thing. Looks inside engine cleaner hence proved engine flush is good. But the description said the contrary. I confuse

[@bryan9857]

I wonder if using it a few times at a 5% mix would be more gentle than the 10% mix. My 6g72 twin turbo engine has lifter tick and I want to try to clean it before changing to big bore lifters.

[@GautamKumar-cr7tw]

I used the liqui Molly engine flush on my E90 and it did clean out quiet a bit of gunk. I just got an oil change every 7500 miles now using liqui Molly engine oil.

[@maliekalzaza314]

Hi, can you make a vedio on how to remove build-up carbon on exhaust valve and compartment without opening the motor of the 4 stroke engine tiller , thanks a lot .

[@petesmith9472]

Not sure if this is useful but I have a Lexus GS300 with about 200, 000 miles on the clock. The idle valve was clogged and sticking badly {very badly}. Would surge, high rev, stall at the lights etc and I esd looking at a $2000 repair. I figured I would gamble six cans of liqui molly fuel system cleaner over four weeks. Problem has completely disappeared and the car is perfect again. I am a devotee of everything liqui moly

[@douglasgreen437]

@@petesmith9472 All you had to do was to remove the air box hose & clean the throtle body intake & butterfly valve with some throtle body spray & a soft tooth brush & a clean cloth..🤔

[@PsylentSir]

*Nice Honda civic.*

[@Heisenberg355]

Damn... these videos are pretty similar to Project Farm's videos

[@maces1405]

That they are🤔

[@tacticalwarfare8413]

Engine flush is only good for new engines or recently fully rebuilt engine it could clog oil passages and cause oil leak for old worn engine

[@bobb9278]

what's considered an old worn engine? high mileage or just poor oil change intervals?

[@tacticalwarfare8413]

@@bobb9278 high mileage engine with no proper oil change intervals could create engine sludge that also damage engine if excess using engine flush could damage the engine by dislodging sludge and clogging oil passages

[@bobb9278]

@@tacticalwarfare8413 But if high mileage and the oil changes were done every 3K or less and the engine sounds healthy by listening to it….is there still a risk with running an engine flush despite the high mileage? I guess I should reconsider running an engine flush even if the oil burning issues are annoying to me. I was thinking of just continuing with 3K oil changes and maybe running something called AutoRX Plus inside the engine and clean it slowly. I’m looking for ways to clean the engine without destroying it in the process.

[@tacticalwarfare8413]

@@bobb9278 it would be ok if your oil seals are still in good condition with no sludge sticking

[@cpuuk]

Only used flush once, when going from Semi to Fully Synthetic. Used the ORIGINAL Slick50 additive, and that was impressive for friction reduction (quiet engine), but the modern version is useless. If you change the oil on a regular basis you shouldn't get build up anywhere except in the combustion chamber, and maybe a tank of Shell V-Fuel every once in a while would take care of most of that. If additives were any good , don't you think the oil companies would put it in to start with. So to a point in the vlog I certainly agree with, if you think the engine has had a hard life with someone and a flamethrower, sure, go ahead, it makes sense.

[@TX_Lawyer]

What about someone who bought a used vehicle that was not regularly maintained? For instance, an older vehicle that they want to restore. Didn't think about that, did you?

[@GripGarage]

@@TX_Lawyer if you flush an older vehicle, everything that it cleans out can clog the lifters and oil pick up tune. Didn’t think of that?

[@K0nst4nt1n96]

@@GripGarage There is an old engine slow flush option from liqui moly which will softly remove buildup and not all at once so you dont damage sludge engines.

[@christophervanzetta]

@@K0nst4nt1n96 Bruh, if the engine was poorly maintained don’t bother. I’m an automotive technician and most people get burned this way ad the damage is already done. There’s no way to reverse it besides a rebuild

[@K0nst4nt1n96]

@@christophervanzetta why not try it? If it works it works and if it doesnt it doesnt? My car had problems with the oil flowback valves and one engine flush did the trick and now they work again. I could have replaced them but 10€ for a flush and it worked fine for me.

[@ravidnichani]

In India We use Flushing Oil only to clean the engine And then Put Fully Syn Engine Oil I use Castrol Edge

[@edud8452]

it's fine for older engines with high miles but all the new car dealers around here want to put in with oil changes in brand new cars. theres no reason to put it in a brand new engine.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

I prefer preventive maintenance but changing the oil regularly will be sufficient.

[@marcomartinez656]

If customers tend to not change the oil on the specified oil change date or milage i’d highly recommend this even if its a new car. Why? Simply because of gunk that gets collected on the engine and we cant see it

[@tassie4x499]

Depends on the engine, direct injection petrol OR diesel engines suffer the worst, and worst again if its turbo, and 99.9 percent of engines have egr which doesnt help. Direct injection engines dont get the valves (washed) by fuel at all, as it bypasses them, hence the massive carbon build up on valve stems... but were not talking intake carbon here, oil doesnt flow there so it wonr be cleaned anyways unless u use an intake decarbon cleaner. I use and recommend all the liqui moly products, except rheir oil

[@rjsvids]

@@tassie4x499 why you doesnrt use theyr oil? i use LM 4200 in my delta 1.6 jtd and its better than the Selenia the brand recomend

[@tassie4x499]

@@rjsvids i dont use their oil, for 2 reasons..... not many places stock it here in Australia, and also its extremely expensive here conpared to other high end fully synthetic oils available. If it were priced more competitive and readily available i would use it👌

[@otarsulava]

I used this flush in 1999 Jetta 2.0 engine that has 115K miles and after that the engine runs SIGNIFICANTLY smoother. I did this way: 1) add the can in oil and idle run engine as recommended 2) Drain the oil and put the new oil. 3) Idle run engine and drain AGAIN. 4) Now, change filter and final refill with new oil again. - great result. My car takes 4 quarts of oil, so I already had 8 quarts purchased to perform the above... Also, highly recommend couple more things: 1.use a STP fuel system cleaner before this engine flush, lets say a week before, as the fuel system cleaner works after the gas tank gets empty and you refill the gas again... and # 2. Change intake air filter too.

[@chetansharma-jx1ud]

Why u put oil and drain again after flush? Any technical reason?

[@otarsulava]

@@chetansharma-jx1ud Hi Chetan, thanks for asking... When I first drain the oil it looked like a milkshake, so I refill with a new oil, let it idle and drained again, why? - just to make sure the old oil with that flush additive is completely out. The instruction on the bottle does not say that, it is my own preference...

[@christianjohncid1072]

@@chetansharma-jx1ud he just want to make sure that no left resedues from engine flush.

[@y0vrs3lf]

I did this exact thing.

[@otarsulava]

@@y0vrs3lf Great! If you also try to clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body - it will run EVEN BETTER! Note: for both, there are 2 different spray cleaners, one is specifically for MAF and the other one exactly for Throttle Body, do NOT mix! Walmart sells both cans as a kit, or check your local auto store...

[@Jodyrides]

There was a product called whynns friction proofing.. I believe that was the one it was about 90% kerosene. I knew a lifetime from high school till he retired Volkswagen mechanic. We were kids together. He was very into the VW beetles. He used to put kerosene into the engine and run the engine for a while, then, drain the kerosene and it would come out like black oil, he would do that again and again, then flush the engine with regular oil for about an hour, drain that, then pull the valve covers. It looked like new. Kerosene itself is almost like oil.. Back before detergent oils. That is the way you cleaned the congealed oil deposits inside your engine every once in a while and I believe it was whynns friction proofing it was over 90% kerosene. And that was an additive you put in your oil and left it in there.. it may have been Bardol VBA. I’m not sure but there was one of them that was mostly kerosene and that would clean your engine up inside, then you drain it, and put your regular oil in there. I was a kid when detergent oils were introduced. I remember pulling valve covers on 283 Chevy’s, and the paraffin or whatever it was it looked like black Jell-O would have the shape of the valve cover in the rocker area on top of their heads when you remove the valve covers sometimes. But with the introduction of detergent in oil. That’s soon became a thing of the past with that sludge buildup. A lot of times that was from mixing different types of oil between changes. Asphalt base, paraffin base, even sometimes caster base, in the esters and polyester oils showed up. But that was back when you had to change your oil every 3000 miles or three months. That was very common. Once synthetics showed up decades ago, I started using mobile one, I change my oil once a year. I still do, and I have never had an engine oil related problem at all in any of my dozens of cars that me my wife and my family have gone through. I change my oil once a year in the spring. I use mobile one, and Purolator oil filters. If I were to go over , 8000 or 10,000 miles, then I would change the oil before a year was up. But I generally do not go over 6000 miles a year…

[@svnbit8408]

Dont give your engines drugs,maintain them.

[@mercedesbenzs600bash]

I would say this product might be great for high mileage used cars....

[@svnbit8408]

@@mercedesbenzs600bash Maybe, sometimes burning oil is more sustainable than drugs removing buildup and not really conditioning seals. Guess it depends on use case or priorities. Cheers

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Stop the myths engine oil flush proof watch kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXzYdWVooJWiia8

[@marccormier9711]

I use engine flush on every vehicle I have once a year my truck has 400,000 miles on it my blazer has 200,000 miles on it no problems

[@trilingualkid]

@johnny Macon eh...Chevy engine are literally indestructible, their V8's literally is on every single GM's, Cadillac and Chevy performance, truck and SUV.

[@treymcleod9377]

I have a suburban with 248k runs strong

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

I owned a blazer 96 model and it lasted a few hundred thousand miles until i sold it.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

What can we try next?

[@heavysnow8616]

The multi-displacement engine I had sucked. It was the 5.3 V-8 and was constantly trying to figure out how many cylinders it wanted to run on. I was going to eliminate the system but got rid of the truck. The 5.3 is a good engine, I’m not a fan of the Multi- cylinder system.

[@veowsaku]

Changing oil with synthetic will simply achieve the same results.

[@samhaben6905]

Ummm what?🤣💀

[@juancarlosgonzalez-izcaray263]

Exactly and totally agree, modern engines has cleaners in the synthetic oil and oil filters was made for that...just dont wait until the limit fir change, and check the oil status(viscosity) and color often... 270k miles in my w12 cylinder and when I change the oil during the 2k first miles it's still yellow and clean...also no valve or timing noise, it just run nearly as the first day, If you dont belive me,... Ask someone who really knows... 😉

[@40822499]

I bought a used 2012 Equinox 16 months ago.... It was using a qt. every 1500 miles.... ran the Liqui Molly treatment now for three oil changes.... Now!! I am over 3000 miles before it's a qt. low.... actually not even a qt. It works.... I've seen the results

[@thewholls7176]

Liqui moly flush is good stuff no doubt about that

[@kupas2]

palm oil work better as engine flush. but best as engine oil additive ie. 10%. that help clean the engine slowly overtime. May need 5000 km.

[@arandomsteve2251]

used this engine flush recently on the first oil change of a 1950s diesel excavator in about 40 years. appears to have done a good job, the engine runs noticeably more smoothly, and appears to idle better. the pilot that came out was very poor, and with a strainer rather than a true filter I suspect a lot of gunk was being recirculated

[@joey9730]

Can u do a ceramic liqu molly oil treatment? The additive coats the entire engine and pistons lubricating the engine less friction and liberates metal parts I quess .we all would like to know thanks Joey 😊

[@jasonlee8546]

My god ! I want go to buy LIQUI MOLY ENGINE FLUSH it now !

[@mindshelfpro]

The engine oil hasn't changed in a Nissan NR 2013 car for 5 years (oil topped up every few months)... around 30,000km. The engine stutters now. An engine flush should be used on it right?

[@josephbarrerareyes]

Buen video amigo, gracias por compartir

[@ebbonemint]

Does anyone actually follow the 10,000 mile oil change intervals lol? I do all my gasoline vehicles at 2500-3000 intervals, And the diesels at 5,000. Yes it’s expensive, But I drive my vehicles hard, If I could afford it, I’d change the oil every time I drove them.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

Yes i agree but unfortunately people are driving 10,000 miles and even more. However im preforming a test that will take years and several cars to see if 1500 mile oil change intervals will make a difference worth the cost. Also i may try just a few over and send to a lab in order to find out if the wear rate increases over time. What do you think? Ideas for testing? Any products or maintenance improvements .

[@Voltrondefenderoftheuniverse]

I use marvel mystery oil for engine flush ., and works great

[@simsneon2]

VOLTRON i’m with you friend I enjoy Marvels mystery oil it’s a great product and I put my gasoline every time I fill my tank I’m a mechanic of 23 years and I’ve seen great improvements throughout all the vehicles I have owned

[@makevelicustoms]

simsneon2 can I add that to my 2012 Jaguar XF 5.0 V8?

[@simsneon2]

Makeveli Customs yes marvels mystery oil can be added to your gasoline and engine oil I will say follow the directions on the back of the bottle to the letter it is fairly inexpensive and sold at Walmart it is also catalytic converter safe it helps with upper lubricant when added to the fuel system and also protect coats and cleans the fuel system I love it it’s been around for a very long time I put about 4 ounces in every time I fill my tank but try for two or three tanks if you don’t like it discontinue use I’ve used it for decades now thank you for your interest my friend have a wonderful day

[@artislocklear7358]

When checking compression needle should jump up half way of maximum at first hit till it Macs out

[@livefreeordietrying7242]

So I say all that to say iv was adviced that I should use the mystery oil,But would you think it will help unclog my oil lines,or pump or what ever I cloged up??Thanks in advance

[@mikeltv1]

I definitely neglected changing the oil in my car. My car eats oil so I just top it off when it needs to be topped off. Did oil change twice a year. So I thought this might be bad for the engine at 350k miles. Gave the flush a try with some regular oil....drained the oil + flush it came out all black.....product seems to do the job....now hopefully my engine has some life left for many more thousand miles.

[@toofine9]

damn he didnt say a word about it at the end..thumbs down

[@UNLVbasketball]

He didn’t have to, I guess unless your blind it’s pretty hard to not tell the outcome

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

I try to have the people decide the results without so much talk. As the saying goes seeing is believing or not. What do you think? Did it work? Was it harmful?

[@JASONXMARIELA]

We want to hear your first hand experience.

[@nightwolveX]

@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO no offense bit isnt an oil flush designed to clean an engine before a new oil change? From the after video the flush removed say 80% of the old dirty oil from tge engine which would help to keep the new engine oil which you would put in after the flush of the old oil.

[@grahamclayclay360]

It lost compression

[@snakeeyes3733]

Looks like it cleaned things up very nicely. Great video by the way, you should get a lifetime's supply from them for this haha

[@michaelmoses4019]

I believe engine flushes work very well, my only concern is someone buying a used car with some sort of stop leak in the system getting flushed out. Also the variable valve timing systems may be sensitive to things like it

[@bashkhaled]

do you think it might damage a bmw n52 engine ? got it used 170k kilometers

[@chrisjfox8715]

I'm torn as to whether I should do it on my newly purchased 2014 Mini Cooper S with 76k miles. It runs great!, especially after I changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, and air filter and ran intake valve cleaner through the pipe. But in this effort to ensure the car's starting off with as clean of a slate as possible, I'm tempted to flush the engine...then just proceed to take care of all maintenance religiously.

[@bashkhaled]

I did the flush and oh my , the car got smoother , quiter and the response was regained

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Never seen a stop-leak actually work. At best it might slow the oil loss a tiny bit. These stop leaks have a seal-sweller chemical which can cause main bearing seals to become "wrapped around the axle", literally, which will definitely not help oil consumption

[@marioh.880]

@@chrisjfox8715 Could you share your results if you did this? & If so how often did you have to change your oil to get the black out to normal color oil. Thanks.

[@WendzDarKnight08]

I get the tone that engine flushes are bad from this video. Results speak for itself

[@stu_jam]

Change your oil and filter every 3-5k miles and you'll never need to use this product. Preventative maintenance is king.

[@erjavec10]

Hi, I had problems with my fiat 500 multijet (diesel) with 85K km. The car started to consump far more diesel per mile and was not going as fast as it was. I started with DPF additives. No big change. I proceded with aditives for nozzles. The change was not very significant. I also noticed, the oil at the change was very dirty - black. It's normal on diesels, but this was too much. It's not so old car. When I saw some things about engine flushing on youtube, I bought an engine flusher (Adinol). I took about 1/2 litres of engine oil away and aded Adinol oil flusher. Ran my engine for about 1/2 hour in neutral with pushing throttle up and down and finaly let my oil out. I was surprised at how dirty the oil this time was. I mean - I changed it only 1K kilometers back. I let the oil to get out for several hours, lifting and letting the car up and down - to get everything out. Also changed oil filter. Than have put new oil and filter. When I started the engine and ran it for some time throtteing it up and down, I have checked the oil on my dipstick. It was much cleaner than ever after oil change. After, when using my car, some significant changes occured. First of all - my gas mileage dropped for more than 1 liter/100 KM. The car also seem to be much more alive and fast, but it's hard to say, I haven't do the final test on the highway yet. When the car was new, I made something between 190 and 200 KM/H. Later when problems occured it made 180 KM/H +. Since it's hard to get empty highway, I haven't checked the final speed yet. But my filing is it goes much better, but still not as good as new. I must admit that the greatest job I still have to do - cleaning the intake manifold, valves and EGR valve - be happy for tips. About the engine flushing, I can only say it is a real revelation for me. I can remember several diesels in my life starting running some kind of heavy at mileage above 50.000 KMs. I think engine flushing would have done a great job for them too.

[@v12-s65]

what car do you have? Planning to do it on my passat diesel at just before 300'000km. I don't have any problems with it, just wanna keep it running smooth.

[@justinsnider1451]

You can do the exact same thing by adding a quart of automatic trans fluid to your oil. When Ford first started using vvt, doing an oil change with a quart of trans fluid and driving for 300 miles was step one in the diagnostic process. No bullshit... That's what Ford says to do. So, you can spend however much on this stuff or just change your oil with one quart replaced with a $3 quart of trans fluid.

[@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO]

I really appreciate this thank you for sharing with the NIA Community.

[@FlyinTrapezious]

That trick is old as the hills. ATF has strong detergents to keep valve bodies, pumps and orifices clean in automatic transmissions. I have a 2005 Nissan Xtrerra with 450,000 original miles , no rebuild. I installed a Fumoto drain valve and remove 20% of the engine oil and replace it with transmission fluid 500 miles before an oil change. I also used the same technique on my over the road trucks( Mack/Freighterliner/Volvo).The all went over 750,000 to 1,000,000 miles before trading in or selling. I use Liqui-Moly products but not the engine flush . It does work and is a good product but the tranny fluid technique I find works better and is very cost effective..Their Mso2 additive and engine oils are excellent. I cannot forget to mention that Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone Engine treatment are also excellent for engine cleaning. I have experimented with both products versus ATF . They all work extremely well and are very cost effective.

[@robertmedina6875]

I was happy to see your comment my uncle taught me that when I was just a 14-year-old boy. 1 quart of transmission fluid in your oil

[@elduderino7767]

the problem being ATF wasn't specifically designed to clean but to lubricate, it works because of it's relatively high detergent concentration... but you are better off using purpose built stuff, it's going into the engine after all, get the right stuff and it'll do the job you want it to do properly

[@PsylentSir]

*Guys how long does it take to have Engine flush to a 2.5 Diesel engine?* *How many liters of flushing chemical should be for a 4D56 Engine?*

[@alejandrogerardo5725]

I use liqui moly in my integra and it always makes a difference, it’s really good stuff and worth it!