Replacing Drive Belt Tensioner on a 1998 Toyota Corolla (1998-2002)

[@andrewtechnerd9344]

Confirmed I followed this and did this with only 2 regular wrenches 12mm/17mm . No motor jacking needed. Thank you!

[@jimeagle1155]

Great video! Simple , straightforward, great visual representation and no annoying music track playing over everything. Only thing that would make this more realistic is if you racked your knuckles at least once and if that nut you dropped would have vanished like a fart in the wind when you went to look for it.

[@blakefreeman1077]

Good guide for the procedure on a 1zzfe engine. The people who are talking about needing to jack up the engine in order for that tensioner bolt to clear the frame rail are referring to the 2zzge, ("XRS "), engine. The bolt securing the tensioner is MUCH longer on the 2zzge engine, and it DOES require the engine to be jacked up a couple of inches to remove it. Otherwise, great video!

[@jonathanconway]

100%

[@russellmaddock3492]

You did good by buying an OEM belt tensioner pully assembly. I have used cheap ones and either the tension piston wears out prematurely, or the piston itself is of poor quality and the tension is too strong. I had one cheap tensioner so strong I broke the casting nut trying to prime the piston before putting the belt back on. I have seen videos of others having this problem as well. It is best to by a quality OEM part and not have to do the repair a second time. Very good video. Thanks for sharing.

[@LukasM1213]

I had the same exact issue today! Thankfully I was able to switch out the pulley and the piston from the new onto the old «body»

[@reallyavidhunter]

This might be the best video on this specific repair

[@Kipple2088]

Bro! The diagram is GOLD! It's what got me out of a rut with trying to route that belt back on ! Thank you soo much! This is the video to watch if you're doing this job on an old Corolla !

[@MichailZacho]

Great descriptions of every step (which were all well-photographed), such that we gain a direct, not over-complicated description by example of what we need to do~!! Thank you~!

[@thatgameingchanel]

Bro when you said “grinding and squealing noise and losing power steering” I felt that so much

[@samanthaarden3592]

Excellent video, it helped me a lot! Thanks for the easy to understand process. My repair went good (it would have been great if I had your better tools). You’re the King of Car Repairs from now on for my Toyota Corolla (270k+ Mileage and still going strong)! 😊

[@jonathanconway]

Awesome video. Yes, be careful and don't use a 12 point spanner, I stripped the dummy bolt on mine. Absolute nightmare and yes, $120 wasted!!!

[@LithiumSolar]

Yeah I learned that lesson the hard way too after I stripped two brake caliper bolts off my truck with a 12-point. It took me days to get them out. I ended up having to use these bolt extractor sockets that bite in the more force you apply and a 10ft breaker bar to get them out. Not fun...

[@markcollard9326]

I would check out rock auto, they had mine delivered for $34 total.

[@jimeagle1155]

Anyone else here because they went all he-man relieving the tension on the belt and broke the bolt head off? No??? Just me then?

[@ForwardGuidance]

1998 makes me miss my 98 Honda Accord that just wouldn't quit, but it was broadsided in front of our house. Our dogs really torn it up so I called it a dumpster on wheels, great car though, every time I see one, I stare. Good job btw.

[@LithiumSolar]

Damn, sorry :( This one is the same way, it just runs and runs. They don't build them like this anymore. They're all computerized with a billion sensors and tiny motors, less mechanical, more difficult to diagnose, and less fun to work on.

[@johnderose1061]

Yes, it was very helpful! The BIG problem I have is a quarter of my bolt holding the tensioner on, broke off in the hole!

[@johnmcminn9455]

My tensioner bolt is rusted in so I replaced the pully The dampened looks easy to get to w/o removal of the whole assembly as well. I am lucky I had a tensioner where there is the bolt ...not a rivet . Needed M10S socket which is different than the splined 6 or 12 sets in Harbor Freight ...amazon had it in 2 days

[@gail6904]

after u loosen the belt do u have to retighten it by that 19mm bolt used to loosen I know u loosen to front of car but then do u have to retighten that bold after installing belt?

[@LithiumSolar]

It's not actually a bolt, it's just a piece of metal that your socket fits on and compresses the piston when you pull. It's just relieving tension on the belt. Yes, you have to pull it the same way to return the belt, but it's not actually loosening/tightening anything.

[@Andre-tc1wj]

BEST Video ever. You just saved me a lot of time.. Thank you very much

[@nomadyesmad4875]

Why does your new tensioner look beefier than the old? With how tight the spaces are is the bigger one the right one even if you can get it to fit?

[@marcostorres5044]

Do you have to pull back on the belt tensioner only if it new or when you replace the belt because I change my belt and the tensioner didn't go back to adjust back so I had to push it back to the windshield so the belt to get tight it was making noise at first I played with the tensioner and it stop by I think I need a new one what your thoughts need help man

[@LithiumSolar]

The tensioner's job is to keep the belt tight. If yours is not doing that and you had to manually push it back towards the window to get it to tighten up, it sounds like it's broken and needs to be replaced. I definitely would not drive it like that. If that belt comes off while it's running, it will whip around and could destroy things in your engine bay.

[@TheFrankman711]

Just did this for the 3rd time on my 99 corolla. Bought these cheap knock offs from ebay, first one broke after 2 month, 2nd one lasted 6 month, now I got the OEM one and hope it will last.

[@LithiumSolar]

Yeah, I learned that lesson the hard way too. After going through two new driver-side window regulators and getting tired of taking the door apart, I finally bought the OEM regulator and it's been in there for about a year now without any problems. :)

[@dgray3484]

Good video. Some car repair videos are too far to see and some too close and/or dark to understand. You explained everything clearly. I have a '98 corolla. Hope you post some more videos for your '98 corolla.

[@jefffilth6786]

Awesome mate cheers, love the bit about no undo the engine mount and jack it up, I saw plenty that did. Good onya mate.

[@lawrencejensen1240]

I took a break today from putting this on because I looked online and it said to unbolt the motor mount and jack it up.

[@BK-yu8xh]

Did the same repair on my 2004 corolla and had to jack up the motor because there wasn’t enough clearance for the bolt.

[@dinodemauro4855]

Best and clear instruction ever 🎉thank you Sir.🏄😎

[@CmurkGam3ing]

How many miles are on this corolla mine got 289k on it just bought it and have to do a few things

[@guyva_unito_sree3]

any idea what is inside the tension piston thing? is it gas pressure or just a spring?

[@amthevision8931]

There is a hydraulic piston or spring tensioner option.

[@salsalvador4945]

Did you use a breaker bar and socket to Break this bolt loose? Or did you just use that 12 point ratcheting wrench and it gave? Mine is seized on good and I’m worried I’ll snap the bolt head off. Thinking of getting a 6 point wrench, any ideas? Thanks, great video

[@guyva_unito_sree3]

its a tough bolt it shouldnt be a problem. its threaded into aluminum too and these bolts dont seem to rust on the threads or anywhere. if you got a short wrench its probably not enough leverage.

[@sotechy92]

Thank you so much! Straight to the point and very good visuals on everything you did.

[@LithiumSolar]

Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helped! :) How did your repair go?

[@rebeccalyon4851]

You saved me so much time. Thank You!

[@edisoncaguioa6871]

Bro can I ask. Before u remove the belt tensioner. No need to set the pulley in TDC. U can remove direct the tensioner. Thanks bro I am a Filipino watching u from new Zealand

[@LithiumSolar]

No, you don't need to worry about TDC for serpentine belt-related activities. That only really comes in to play is when you mess with timing (removing the timing chain, cams, etc).

[@AnthrozoologyTV]

What pulley is the one in the very lower left of the engine?

[@markcollard9326]

A/c I believe.

[@markcollard9326]

Just did this myself, didn't replace the worn belt initially just in case something went wrong. The old belt was stretched significantly enough to make it squeal even with a new tensioner. Replacing the serpentine belt fixed it fully.

[@eddielittle153]

excellent video simple and quick !!

[@ryszardjacekrusniak7993]

Thank you for excellent instruction.

[@xaviertabor5702]

Is it necessary to use a torque wrench?

[@tonistarks2874]

Yes it it bro...it sets ur part to the correct torque spec from the manufacturer so ur part has more life and not wear the part out sooner...I torque all my replacement parts always...that way u know it was tighten correctly

[@guyva_unito_sree3]

no not really. none of the nuts and bolts here seize the tensioner in any way they just hold components on. just give them a decent snug. maybe put some blue loctite and thats that. the torque is probably for factory workers or people with no sense so they dont strip threads lol use torque wrench maybe on wheel nuts or just give them all equal 90 degree turn for the last turn to make them equal pressure. it supposedly matters but i cant confirm.

[@exrodriquezz]

Thank you bro! Big help

[@jakoblucero7726]

BEST Video ever ;-)) Thank you very much!

[@tuannguyen-yt8ty]

Very clear and explain 👍

[@florinflo2531]

Sweet, thanks, the man is a legend

[@crescenciog2182]

Excelente video 👍. Gracias!

[@roy-sr5ct]

You can't do that on my 01 celica! Thats for sure...you've got way more clearance for your hands and my ac lines are right in the way. There no other way but to jack up the motor and then it is still a pain.

[@guyva_unito_sree3]

i hate when they dont put enough room the idiots engineers

[@leogetsome]

Awesome video 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@alexmoi2735]

Thank you very much! Very helpful video.

[@milzalez12]

Thanks you for saving time

[@gail6904]

oh great video thank u soooo much!

[@vsenarma]

Great vid....helped me out alot

[@ruth9370]

I watched a stupid video yesterday that showed to jack up engine. It made me regret thinking of doing the replacement. I thought Toyota engineers are very stupid. Now I know it's the guy instructing we need a jack that is stupid!

[@hassemsadiq]

Awesome video On my one I noticed the 17mm bolt is slanting to one side and the belt is in the middle I tried tightening it but it keeps spinning also the tentioner not pulling to get belt off

[@carlos12953]

Thank you for the tip very helpfull

[@christopherohara9421]

Thanks

[@brianmerel513]

Thanks man!

[@guyva_unito_sree3]

jacking the engine up is probabbly for later models. why does toyota sell that large lever arm instead of just the pulley and piston tensioner. it would save time money resources. toyota has a proprietary nut on the pully too they designed this component with greed in mind most likely. alternator on last is harder because its pulley has that raised edge on it increasing the diameter needing to pull more on the tensioner

[@hoodstruggles708]

Thank you

[@nataliecalderon5790]

Good job

[@Jv4150]

I inherited a 99 Corolla rund drives sometimes starts think it may be the park neutral switch. Aside from that its decent. I willing to invest 1000 give or take 200 on any parts I should replace. Vehicle has over 175 000 miles two old ladies own the car. I want it the car for my future daughter in law. I will change out the fluids, do a leak down test first, spark plugs and wires alternator hoses belts water pump and brakes and bleed probably look at suspension shocks ball joints. Amy of these over kill or anything else I should consider. I'm a new technician not much experience but I know enough to get me in trouble. Thank you

[@LithiumSolar]

This generation of Corolla is a fantastic car that should last her a long time :) The only problem worth mentioning that they had was the 1ZZFE burning oil because of piston ring fatigue and the drain holes becoming blocked due to a design flaw/change. I bought mine around 100k miles and rebuilt the engine at 165k. It was burning about a quart every month, now it doesn't even loose a drop! Other than that, just the common-wear items like you mentioned and check frame for rust. I still have the original water pump, alternator, brake parts (other than the pads obviously), and most of the suspension. I've had to replace the rear struts twice since owning it.

[@LithiumSolar]

I'm not a mechanic or anything, just a hobbyist who enjoys working on these things and loves this car :)

[@XxXButtXNuggetsXxX]

The oil problem will bite you over time. 315k and found a loose timing chain bruh. Possible video coming in a couple weeks if I can record well.

[@poeta12branky]

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