Little details that make a BIG difference || RS 200 Boat Bimbles

[@flyingmedic]

I have just started dinghy sailing again after a few year to introduce my daughter 11 into the sport. She’s progressing through RYA stages and I’ve just bought a Lark to get her double handed . Your endeavours are fab to spur her on. Thank you:-) Paul

[@alastairwilson4564]

The most useful RS200 video I've seen, so many good ideas, which pedestal mount for mainsheet block do you use

[@MozzySails]

Thanks! It's the harken 25mm low load base. www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4935&taxid=376

[@jamesa1116]

Nice video and really helpful. Could you do a short video/explanation on the 3:1 toe strap adjustment please? (Or if i have missed it point the way to the relevant video?)

[@MozzySails]

Hey, it's the same method as used for the adjustment on trapeze line at 5:32 in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ_Rk5pso7yNmpo Imagine the purple friction ring is the kicker fitting and the trapeze cleat is the crews toe strap. Start with an eye splice (not attached to anything), go forward and round the kicker fitting (purple friction ring). Come back and round the toe strap webbing (cleat). Go forward and make a turn through the first eye splice, then finally come back and dead end to the toe strap webbing (cleat). It sounds more complicated that it really is. It is only two eye splices. The system holds under friction, and you just shuffle the rope back and forth so it's either doubled over, or tripled over.

[@jamesa1116]

Really helpful. The first eye-splice on the rope leading down to kicker fitting is a standard Brummell hitch - no worries. Could you help with the “finally come back and dead end to the toe strap webbing” please? How do you “dead end” the rope to create the second eye splice? Many thanks

[@mattheweverett6567]

Like your use of quick links for the jib halyard but is there a reason you wouldn’t use soft shackles instead, given potential saving in weight, snagging potential etc?

[@adamcatlow7496]

Give us some speed tips for the 200. What’s your fast settings and how to stay quick during manoeuvres, light winds, etc...

[@MozzySails]

I'll get something up this winter on boat speed for sure

[@mattheweverett6567]

Really like your use of quick links on the jib halyard but is there a reason you wouldn’t use soft shackles instead, given potential reduction in weight and snagging potential etc. Thanks.

[@MozzySails]

The only reason I haven't is because I was worried about wear between the soft shackle and the thimble on the jib halyard wire. But it would probably be fine. I've also got some nice protective covering from marlow which I will try over soft shackles where there might be wear.

[@mattheweverett6567]

Interesting, thanks...be a good thing to do a video on if you felt inclined, the ones you have posted so far are excellent!

[@laurentb5401]

no ball on the tackline? Just a soft shackle?

[@mattheweverett6567]

Looked at this video a few times, great set up! On your elasticated forestay, is it 3 parts: dyneema from the mast foot to shock cord, then back to dyneema for the attachment to the forestay? How have you linked shockcord and dyneema reliably? Thanks for the advice....

[@MozzySails]

The elastic is spliced into the dyneema and stitched. I don't have a stopper knot or anything, so it's this continuous piece of dyneema to holding the mast up should the jib halyard fail.

[@alexcurtis692]

Really like the idea of having an adjustable tack line on the kite. Currently got a bobble in my tack line at the end of the pole which limits how far the pole can come out. With an adjustable tack how do you stop the pole from going too far forward?

[@MozzySails]

I always have the pole at maximum extension. So the launch line where it comes out of the pole is right up against the block near the bow. Then I trim the adjustable splice to set the tack height. If you watch the Sandy Shell race you can see I am running it quite long in the light winds.

[@alexcurtis692]

@@MozzySails cheers mate, will give it a go!

[@andrewdavies7816]

you mentioned on your boat chat about a splice for adjusting the mainsheet bridle. Would you attach friction rings to the holes on the hull to connect this system?

[@MozzySails]

In short, no. I've got a video coming up on this. Friction rings make them a little easier to adjust, but also rub on the deck. Instead I just make a one inch loop with a diamond knot as a stopper under the gunwal.

[@andrewdavies7816]

@@MozzySails Really enjoying your videos. Allowing me to live vicariously through you as my logistics mean I can't sail at the moment!

[@Fred41239]

Great Video. Which part of the kicker fitting are you measuring the 37cm from?

[@MozzySails]

from the forward side of the kicker fitting eye to the end of the aluminium extruded part of the boom

[@Dowza99]

What size low friction rings are you using for the control lines? I like the idea a lot!

[@MozzySails]

It's 10mm internal diameter. It's about as small as you'd want for two 4mm lines

[@andrewbarnett3153]

Great idea but how do you get the grab rail off to change the block. Thanks

[@MozzySails]

@@andrewbarnett3153 The carbon strip just prises off, then you can unscrew the rail. My carbon strip stuck back down but you may need contact adhesive.

[@fabmanly1070]

These boats are very expensive, pity.