Lock Your Guitar Strings so they always stay in tune (with out locking tuners)

I show you how to properly install strings on your guitar so that they lock into place and stay in tune - with out locking tuners - just using ordinary 6 in a line tuners.
This process also works for 3 on a side tuners - simply crip the string the opposite direction when you get to the 4th through 6th string (if you have 3 on a side tuners)
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www.findyournextguitar.com

[@blockparty621]

I tried this and worked wonderfully. Little tricks like this really make a huge difference. If only I had seen this 35 yrs ago....lol Thanks!

[@Findyournextguitar]

for sure, my first 5 years of playing I didn't know this and always wondered why I had so many tuning issues.

[@Bottomdweller]

I discovered this method in another video and I still cannot understand how something this easy can solve most tuning stability issues. This video shows it more clearly. I wish I had known it years ago.

[@Findyournextguitar]

It solves tuning stability with tension - for the knot can't slip or un-tie itself once you loop it through as you tighten the string it locks it in place - think of it kind of like a Chinese finger trap - once it's in the harder you pull the tighter it gets - the more you tighten the string the harder it is for the string to slip or slide on the tuning peg.

[@Bottomdweller]

@@Findyournextguitar Thank you for the detailed explanation. Much appreciated!

[@toddposton869]

Simple, clear, precise, and good camera view. Well done, sir.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Thanks Todd😎

[@reidsanity]

Been playing for years and have used a couple different methods. Got a new gibson with klusons and was very close to replacing them until i saw this technique. 100%. Really locks the strings in tune!!! Thank you saved me some time and money.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Awesome, - honestly I played for almost 7 years before I learned how to do this myself... I just only bought locking tuners - my guitars without locking tuners were always out of tune so I just only bought locking. It one of those things most guitar teachers never show you how to do and a lot of the only tutorials are wrong. Thank you for your comment - Dave

[@kiillabytez]

One the most useful video tutorials on KZbin! Thanks for this.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Thanks man, I'm glad it helped :) !

[@mattv1710]

This seriously helped, thanks so much! Definitely my new favourite way to do strings!

[@Findyournextguitar]

Thanks Matt - I'm glad you like it, enjoy your new tuning stability :) - Dave

[@davidparr4108]

okay Under and Over got it thanks

[@danialollis9200]

I just tried this method for the first time today re-stringing my Tele and my acoustic. Saved heaps of time doing it this way. Cheers.

[@bluwng]

Perfect simple technique, no string slack required, trust me and test for yourself.

[@marcustate3513]

I’ve been doing this but slightly different for 40 years. Difference is you pull the parting back towards the body an inch. Once you Mack the last fold over you put tension on the string as you wind it with the key. One wrap is all you need for the round strings and no more than 1 1/2 for unwound

[@Findyournextguitar]

I probably could've made that a bit more clear, I'm actually doing that with my thumb as I hold the string into the nut slot, I'm pulling back on it slightly while also pulling on the top end of the string to make a knot.

[@paradox7743]

Excellent-I'm going to do this to all my guitars that don't have locking tuners-thank you...

[@Findyournextguitar]

It saves a lot of time with re-turning lol... most guitar teachers don't teach this and most self taught players (like myself) don't learn it for a long time, but it's the way your supposed to install new strings anyways.

[@paradox7743]

@@Findyournextguitar Yeah nothing more fun then having to tune the D & G after every song lol.Also don't have to go buy new locking tuners from all my guitars-good on the wallet.Very cool-Gotta check out more of your channel.

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@paradox7743 exactly lol

[@123jozef]

Been doin this since I can remember SANS the amount of wrapping. I just throw a FEW MORE windings down on the strings, especially on the smaller gauges (non-wound) ~ It works until your strings give, which they will.. much sooner than if they were finessed on with a little more wrap and locking power. There is also a nice small pillar of metal there helping the string ring out and sustain a bit more. String-wrapping is NOT 100% about "Locked or not Locked" ~ there's a little more to it than that just for some more connection to your machine heads, especially if you've invested some money into them. You need to anchor your sound in many ways on an electric guitar. One string-winding will NEVER EVER be enough for me, not in 50 years and not anytime soon. I've got to have more metal on metal any place possible, within reason, on my guitar. Just me. Don't matter. Anyone can do whatever the hell they wanna do, but you shouldn't take the liberty of objectively saying "anything more than 1 winding is a waste. I'm sure there others that agree. Don't care if their aren't ~ I'm just assuming that a lot of other life-timers like myself know they can just lock one winding in if they want to, but rarely do you see it... . anywhere. It's not like it's that solid of a deal, otherwise it would have been a "thing" long ago... right? Meh ~ all good. Thanks for the vid tutorial

[@Findyournextguitar]

Hey Tommy, I'm not just objectively saying more than one winding is a waste - I'm actually quoting the guy who ran ESP's custom shop and built the personal guitars for metallica and several other major artists - from a physics standpoint - in theory it shouldn't matter - however it's gotta be really tight as in you yanked in with a pair of pliers tight. After that you have to completely stretch out the strings and go back and make sure it's still snug. I will give you - most people aren't going to do that, I use locking tuners on all of my own guitars, and if you have the excess string it's not going to hurt at all. It really boils down to personal preference, and how often your changing strings. For MOST guitar players that extra loop is not going to make any difference. It can't change the sound or how the string rings out because it's crimped in the middle of the tuning head. This method helps prevent any further slipping through the head like a locking tuner would. I don't think I did mention to stretch the strings, but for people with tuning issues or have the string slip, you can almost always trace it back to not properly stretching the strings before playing. Once a string has stretched beyond the initial stretch it needs to be changed and will probably break soon, you'll also hear a noticeable volume/output difference. Not trying to argue your point, it's just I'm not randomly saying what I said, of the hundreds of strings I've changed on my own guitars one wind is fine, and many other professionals agree with me too.

[@vikingrus94studio33]

Thanks for video, was slot of help.

[@vikingrus94studio33]

*alot

[@otraperspectiva]

This is a great video, straight to the point what i was looking for. Thanks

[@Findyournextguitar]

and thank you for your comment - I'm glad it helped - Dave

[@mopetenstaub]

Fantastic video, thank you very much!

[@Findyournextguitar]

Thanks, I'm glad it helped - Dave

[@shermanballz]

This is not a horrible method, however it can produce some pitch instability. Any time that string somes out of contact with the tuning peg you introduce a region of flexible tension. If you examine a tuning peg, they are not straight. They are concave. This is so the tightening strings will pull up toward the hole, locking the string in place, making this method unnecessary. Taylor Guitars has an excellent video on stringing their acoustic guitars, and its perfect for electrics as well. It's also SOOO much easier 😁

[@Findyournextguitar]

I hear what your saying, but the string IS in contact with the turning peg, the wrap is what "locks" the crimp into place so that it can't slide out creating the flex your talking about - I mean if you want to get extremely technical with "flexible tension" every time you pluck the string it goes in and out of tune, it's just a matter of how out of tune and how much you bend the string. Got a link to the Taylor video? I'm sure they have a good method - the method I'm using here is the same one PRS suggests using on their non locking turners. I've never had any issues with pitch or intonation, but hey I strung my guitar the wrong way for like 5 years before I learned this so maybe I'll like the other method better. The "locking" for this particular guitar or Strat type guitars in general is so you can use the trem and not have to worry about the strings literally pulling out of the peg a bit, if you don't lock the wrap then lots of trem wobble will eventually rock the string out of place and it will break or slide out of tune or all the way out of the peg and at that point the string is probably done.

[@shermanballz]

@@Findyournextguitar Hey! Yeah, I probably came off as a bit of an ass 😁 I tend to think about these things theoretically, but to be honest, my ears aren't even good enough to tell the difference! Also, I've mainly played accoustic, and only recently bought an electric. I havent even used a tremolo, but I can see how the instabilities introduced would be much different than what happens on a stationary tuning. I would link to that Taylor video, but I'm on mobile and think I'll lose the message if I try to pull up the link 😁 The easy part about that method is you cut first. Don't need to worry about that string end wrapping around. Measure, cut, and spin. That's it. Hope these comments drive your numbers. You still got a like from me 😁

[@Findyournextguitar]

@shermanballz All good 🤣... funny thing is you can actually cut it off first, because once the string is crimpped it's very unlikely it will slide out, but I thought it was too difficult to see the over under movement in the video when I cut the string first. I typically do cut them first, but you gotta watch out for the damn evil G string... every time I don't pay really close attention or use needle nose plyers it ends up under my thumbnail... super painful. If you make a video like this you have to expect nasty comments, I actaully got several death threats from the truss rod vidoe lol... that's when I knew I had something good going 🤣

[@shermanballz]

@@Findyournextguitar Dude: remake this video and cut the strings before winding. It will be SOOOOO divisive (pun intended). Put it in the thumbnail. People scrolling by will say, "WTF? That guys crazy! That can't work!" But then they'll click 😎

[@Findyournextguitar]

@shermanballz ehh I have about 350gb of video to edit still lol... I don't mind the filming or video ideas, but I need to get an editor 🤣 ... also clickbait stuff kinda crashes and burns I'm going tor long term, somewhat on accident. The first video I uploaded about 7 years ago I never thought it'd get 10,000 views and it's pushing 1 million, I'm at about 2mil total between both channels now but one of the things that helps the video alot is comments + watch time so thank you for all of your comments :)

[@cfdemarco2]

Whenever I pressed on the Bigsby on my Gretsch G5420T, it put the smooth G out of tune. I purchased Grover Locking Tuners but they are too big. So, I put some lead pencil into the nut grooves, and used this string locking method, with new strings. Staying in tune much better. Someone said Locking Tuners are more for just making strings easier to change, not necessarily keep your guitar from going out of tune....anyway...thanks

[@Findyournextguitar]

You don't "need" locking tuners, but it's nice to have them - it does make it easier to change, but this method of stringing should help your tuning a lot. I would say DONT use pencil lead as a nut lubricant - it's mostly clay, not graphite - which clay is actually sticky and an abrasive. Most pencils are 75% clay, unless you have a 90% grapite drawing pen, go to the hardward store and get some powdered graphic - it comes in a tiny tube as lock lubricant - you want the powder NOT the spray. It should be somewhere between $2-$5 and it should lasy you forever. You can't really apply too much since it'll just fall away, but sprinkle a few puffs of the graphite in the nut, each time you change strings. It should help a lot. You can also put a little on the bigsby saddles. Do be careful with it since it's kinda messy and gets everywhere. You might want to put a little masking tap on the neck before you apply it - it won't hurt the neck, but it's almost impossible to clean it all up since the powder is so fine. - Dave

[@damo1140]

ty heaps bro

[@andrethegoatboi9872]

thanks so much!

[@Findyournextguitar]

glad it helped :)

[@RockG.o.d]

I been doing it almost the same way, though I leave more slack to get string loop around a few times.

[@Findyournextguitar]

either way works fine, you technically just need one wrap, some guys like more, I like it to be easier to swap strings because multiple wraps are a pain to get off and I alwasy poke the g string into my finger lol

[@kevingamache1512]

I put more them one wrap around the posts as it will push the string down the post and i feel it enhances the angle and tension of the string over the nut. Less important for the strings under the string tree obviously. I still and have always done the tie But leave a bit of string for a few wraps. Good video.

[@Findyournextguitar]

If you have a decent tuning machine and it's properly installed, once the "knot" is tied the string really can't slip out without breaking. I've found it's personal preference, I've never noticed a difference when I did more wraps. I'd also like to point out, changing my stings is probably my least favorite thing to do, right up there with picking up dog dirt, or taking out the trash.

[@kevingamache1512]

@@Findyournextguitar There used to come in i think fender string packs. This plastic D ring looking item that you used to stretch your strings. Yeah it does help for sure

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@kevingamache1512 With steel strings they are pretty malleable - if you stretch them right at install they tend to stay in tune longer and not break as much - it kind of works any kinks out opposed to them coming out when you play. I would bet that's what it was because the string can't change the tonal properties of the wood. Now I will say some strings are crap strings and sound bad, but most reputable string companies are pretty even when it comes to sound and quality. For the most part it comes to personal preference. I don't think one is much better than another, there are really only 6 companies which make all the guitar strings in the US some brands are even wound on the same production line and put into a different box so hopefully after a few hours of playing your back to normal. I would think after they stretch out, they will sound better... I'm really lazy so I have a lot of dead strings on my guitars, but when you change the strings on a nice guitar you can hear and feel the difference for about two weeks if your playing about an hour a day. At that same time, I know guys who can wear out their strings in one session lol. It partly depends on how hard you strum and they type of music you play.

[@kevingamache1512]

@@Findyournextguitar Im one who actually likes the sound of a "broke in" set of strings. A fresh set it seems to me too bright. I remember many years ago i would set this piece of wood under the six strings around the 21st to 24th fret depending on the guitar. Tightening as needed ( not too tight) for a couple days. Just to think in my mind they were nice and broke in. Haha

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@kevingamache1512 The biggest difference is when your recording, you can really hear a huge difference then, more specifically with acoustics rather than electrics, it pretty drastically changes the volume. Either way it comes down to style and personal preference.

[@sicilienz]

Thanks it works great!! It even corrected the frets buzz i had. However it seems that my acoustic has lost its natural sustain doing it. is that normal?

[@Findyournextguitar]

So if by sustain if you are referring to how long the string rings out, maybe a tiny bit, but it could have been the string was loosening before you had used this locking tuning. It can kind of create a sustain effect, but then you have to tune your guitar all the time. If they are brand new strings - did you stretch them at all after you put them on? If not, then I would suspect it will come back after stretching the strings or playing a few hours. Let me know how it goes - Dave

[@stratkiller86]

been playing for about 25 years and am now discovering this method. I have a Warlock with tuning demons, let's see if this helps.

[@Findyournextguitar]

It should unless it is has some odd issue with the tuners or bridge... If your trying to do dive bombs without a floyde rose or locking system, it might not help. I played for 10 years without doing this myself lol. Also, it really helps to stretch your strings - at first I thought it was a stupid waste of time, but it makes a huge difference.

[@stratkiller86]

@@Findyournextguitar Gotta say it's helped a lot, really made this guitar playable again. 👍👍

[@russellhayden82]

I have never tried that. I always pull the string tight then pull it back about 2 inches then start winding it. It gets about 3 full wraps. I also use a pencil and rub inside the slots of the string nut. And I also find that bent saddle have less surface area to get stuck on than block saddles. I have an '89 squire strat. Plastic string nut, upgraded trem with bent saddles and brass block and stock tuners. It stays in tune all the time unless I try to use the whammy bar which I never use anyway.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Hey Russell, You probably don't want to lubricate the inside of the turners because they need to "grab" the string and hold it - don't get me wrong they shouldn't be sharp or rusted on the inside, but if you add extra lubricant it can cause the strings to slip out of tune. I'd highly suggest replacing your plastic nut as well, there a lots of great musical materials they make nuts out of today - anything other than plastic will probably be a big improvement to your tone as well as tuning stability - the pvc nuts tend to wear fast as well as grab the string an not let it ring freely - this sucks the tone out of it as well as creates tuning issues.

[@CarpeDiem23]

When I bought new strat, it had strings wrapped 3 times around, and it still stays that way..I'll try this once when needed, and on my other acoustic guitar as well

[@Findyournextguitar]

When you lock them like in the video it's literally tying the string into a knot when you turn the tuning posts. Wrapping 3 times is kind of over kill, but you can do both. I just think it's a bit harder to get 3 loops around some string posts which is why I showed it this way. It's technically the "Traditional" way to do it, but It's really not necessary.

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

You should listen to this man carpe diem. He knows his shit. I tried his technique shown in this video on my gretsch silver falcon, my ric 620, my heritage h 150 because fuck g sting issues on gibson les pauls lololol, my 4 some odd fenders, and I even did it on one of mosrites last guitars he made before he sadly died from cancer : ( But clearly the technique makes you stay in tune better. But I still think getting locking tuners is a worth while investment none the less in the long. Makes string changing a lil faster and they are just plain kool.

[@87BruceH]

carpe diem when you bend a string, it can go out of tune when you have too many wraps around the tuning post. The less loops around the post, the better.

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

@@87BruceH Well said. Too little loops though makes it so that if you ever change your tuning to say... Drop D for example it might be a little risky. So I say a few loops is fine. Too many is a problem. On the biggest strings I think 2 or 3 loops is fine. On the 3 smallest ones who really gives a shit? I tend to have 2 pegs distance of slack when pulled tightly. Kind of a rule I abuse and it's worked out pretty great : )

[@87BruceH]

I’m having issues with my dean. The tuning stability should be phenomenal because the Floyd rose bridge, but it still goes out of tune a lot. The guitar even has Grover 18:1 self locking tuners, but I still have an issue. I bought the guitar second hand from shopgoodwill.com, I’m thinking the previous owner abused it. I have new strings and I will try this technique today when I install the strings, then I will comment on how well it worked in a couple of days. Thanks for the advice. 🤘🎸

[@Findyournextguitar]

Hey Bruce, I'm a bit ashamed to admit it, but I've never worked on a Floyde rose or learned about them because it was a guitar I didn't think I'd ever own, as well as I've heard lots of good vs bad things about them. I would think that your guitar has locking tuners, but if it doesn't the floyde rose mechanism should force the strings to go back in tune - as that's the purpose of having one... So you can dive bomb so hard it'll almost break the neck and then go right back in tune. I wouldn't take it to a big box guitar store - I'd look for a local guitar shop which you trust, the big box stores probably won't have a tech who knows how to properly setup the guitar. Based on what your saying the tuners / floyde mechanism probably needs to be adjusted, I doubt it was abused to the point of not being able to stay in tune - most floyde rose guitars are specifically designed to be gigged heavily in low drop tuning and be able to take abuse. I would think the mechanism just needs a setup - as for tying off the strings - it will help, but if the floyde isn't set up right then it won't stay in tune anyways. I hope that helps - I wish I had a place to send you for better info, but I'm not currently aware of any - Dean might have some setup tips and instructions on their website

[@YNGWIE998]

With the locking wrap method, it is easy to do the wound strings, but the plain strings, not so easy. I have pricked my finger loads of times on the G, B or high E strings, so be careful.

[@Findyournextguitar]

That's no fun... I've done that a few times, it helps if you use a pair of needle nose pliers - I swapped most of my guitars over to locking tuners, which makes it a lot easier and less likely to prick your fingers.

[@aryangaunkar1276]

thabksss s

[@robertkapty5053]

Great video but I have one question. When I restring, I always hold a ton of tension on the string so they go on the tuner very tightly with almost zero slack. Watching this video it looks like the string is pretty relaxed and doesn't have a lot of tension on it as you are winding it. Am I causing issues by holding it so tightly and should I just hold a wee bit of tension? I have several decent guitars and I always have tuning issues so maybe I am doing it wrong bye winding it so tightly.

[@Findyournextguitar]

@robertkapty5053 great question - the answer is both yes and no - typically if I wasn't fimlming this I use needle nose plyers to hold the end of the string, but they were in the way too much an you couldn't see what I was doing to I didn't film the vidoe with them. Once the first wrap is around the "knot" you don't need tension anymore becuase the wrap has wrapped around the "knot" part so after the first turn each wrap is holding down the knot tighter and tighter - it krimps the string in that spot so you do want to have a bit of slack untill you tie the knot otherwise the string might break - though if you are going to hold it really tight you will need to make sure the peg holes are straight in line with the neck - anyone who's strung their guitar a few times probably does this by habit already - but if they peg holes are pointing out to the side of the head stock vs straight down the neck, you might snap a string or damage the tuning peg if you have a lot of tension on it. You can also possibly damage the head stock if you are using something like plyers - it can crack if you put too much pressure on it. Granted, it's pretty rare you'll actually damage your headstock - I just felt the need to mention it incase someone else reads this and tries to man handle it... Just be careful if you are using plyers - if your hand hurts and veins are sticking out of your arms - it's probably too much pressure lol.

[@AeonShlasouf]

I will try this on my firebird because i put locking tuners on it and now it neckdives like crazy so back to the drawing board 😂

[@keanelimusic]

Does the single wind accommodate occasionally tuning down a whole step?

[@Findyournextguitar]

As long as you loop it properly, you're tying a locking knot around the tuning peg, it shouldn't slip with one wind so long as you pull it through - I normally snug my up with a pair of pliers when I'm winding it - keeping tension on the end of the string with the pliers to ensure it's pulled through. I have not had any issues with mine and the 2 wind rule is really more to make it look clean than anything else, with this particular wind. With a traditional wind, the two wraps are important, but for this locking wind it shouldn't make any difference. Just be careful if you use pliers - you can easily crack a head stock if you use a lot of force. I use them because more than once I poked the g string under my thumb nail, it's very painful lol

[@redfoxse7en52]

Is leaving the slack vital to this? I tried repeatedly to leave some slack on the string and it was just not working.

[@Findyournextguitar]

it's really a matter or preference - once you wind the string it gets rid of the slack, but if you don't properly crimp it your going to ruin the string - make sense?

[@Rusli1659LPSoldier]

wait.. does it work on 3x3 headstock like "Les Paul" and others? I was trying to lock the strings but I don't want my string getting snapped. Nice video btw. I need that string winder for me. But I need a Guitar technician to fix my guitar to be in tuned.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Yes it does, though you need to tie it off the opposite direction on the other side for 3x3 tuning heads... you'll know right away if they are going the wrong way because it will slip out.

[@Rusli1659LPSoldier]

@@Findyournextguitar oh the opposite direction? Can you show me the video of it with the 3x3 headstock?

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@Rusli1659LPSoldier Hey Rusli - check out this video from Paul Reed Smith guitars - all 3x3 tuners work in the same way - aside from locking tuners. It had a very good explanation and visuals, it's probably easier to understand than my video kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5-9ZqiqbrJnp5I&feature=emb_logo

[@kiillabytez]

@@Rusli1659LPSoldier Just do it reversed on the other side you simp.

[@Rusli1659LPSoldier]

@@Findyournextguitar ok thanks!

[@ck2music712]

I use this method, but I'm curious how much slack people use...

[@Findyournextguitar]

I don't use much at all - I think its personal preference for the most part - l feel like less gives you more consistent tuning

[@Whiskey04]

The only difference with my technique is I make sure the string is taut leaving no slack on fret board followed by string stretching

[@Findyournextguitar]

Good points, I do that as well, I actually make it snug with the needle nose plyers, but I didn't want a bunch of ppl to yell at me saying I'm showing people how to break their head stock - I did think some ppl might over do that part so I left it out. The stretching I should have mentioned as well, it does make a huge difference, I also feel like it increases the longevity of the strings, since I started stretching mine, I haven't really had any string breaks. Thanks for your comment - Dave

[@4142Wilb]

Now, once you’ve done that, can you detune your guitar at any point and still maintain “a lock”?

[@Findyournextguitar]

Of course not, you can only do that with the Gibson robot guitars... A floyde rose won't even hold tune if you purposefully tune it down...

[@TheMisanthropeLives]

If you're someone who detunes, you should wrap the string a few times. Technique still works.

[@toulousedarling55]

it is a great idea to lock un-wound strings ! ....however, there is no advantage to locking wound strings !?!

[@spoon7250]

Is this will work on squier strat?? Cuz squier tuner is so awful

[@Findyournextguitar]

yes, it will help, probably more than you would think. Unless it's stripped and the tuner is slipping...it shouldn't be unless you beat it to death... On the flip side, you can pickup a set of locking tuners for like $20-30 if you want the cheapest possible ones. Wilkinson makes good quality tuners, I've used a few sets - they are fairly easy to swap out if you are handy with wood/tools. If you aren't good with tools or woodworking, you can easily crack the head stock - so for sure be careful before you attempt swapping them. It also may just make sense to buy a better quality guitar sometime in not too distant future. The newest squire's a fairly decent, they should last you a long time, the tuners are junk though. Also - if you are switching tunings all the time or trying to do dive bombs - that will make it never stay in tune. If you are using really cheap strings that could also be an issue, any big brand $5 guitar string will work just great, but the dirt cheap $1-$2 strings are junk. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions - Dave

[@spoon7250]

@@Findyournextguitar thanks a lot man, it'll help me a lot. Done taking a screenshot of that comment.

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@spoon7250 so many people have asked now, I'm going to eventually make a video about it, just haven't had the time.

[@tommylarsson2025]

It's actually no rocket science to put strings on a guitar. Although you see tons of different ways of doing it. And to be honest most of them works perfectly well if you be sure to stretch the strings enough before starting to play and expect that the guitar will stay in tune. It's when the vibrato system being used on strats we start to get tuning problems. And the main reason for that is more often that something grab the string and denies it to go back to it's main position. If you have tuning problems after just bending the strings, without even having a vibrato system, the windings can be a part of it, but more likely it's the friction points that is the problem. The nut for example. Although, this way of winding the strings is to be prefered so thanks for sharing it. Good job!

[@Findyournextguitar]

Agreed! and no one knows how to stretch their strings. If I had to guess I'd say maybe 5% of guitarist do this when they change their strings (granted I'm talking everyone who plays which is over 1 billion people globally)

[@tommylarsson2025]

@@Findyournextguitar Yes, you are probably totally right! Most people probably just play and tune and play and tune until the strings has stretched enough to stay in tune. Hopefully, with some help from youtube, more people realise how and why they should stretch the strings. Have a great day! :-)

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

I think the vibrato system on strats is shit sadly. I prefer my music man cutlass to do vibrato or a bad ass bigsby never fails.

[@tommylarsson2025]

It's shit if people believe they can use it as a Floyd rose. Otherwise it's ok. I would feel naked without the opportunity to use it for tremolo or slight dive. It gives an extra dimension to the sound.

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342 100% the oem strat bridge is crap... the only plus side being low cost. It's a shame they haven't innovated this more on their $1500 + guitars although I guess the market wants the "traditional" bridge... The only floating trem system I've really like was PRS's "knife edge" system. It stays in tune, I've never had any issues with the one on my Swamp Ash Special - granted it also has locking tuners. Personally I like hard tail systems / tune - o - matic bridges. I don't like the size of the bigsby personally, but I can appreciate the functionality of it.

[@serranodavid3247]

I used this method for years and years, till l finally started to use locking tuners. The method works good,, if you have the time.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Yeah I put locking tuners on most of my guitars - this method is very good if you have a vintage spec guitar or don't have locking tuners.

[@serranodavid3247]

@@Findyournextguitar exactly 💯

[@whitneywilson6347]

I thought you had to give it some slack

[@Findyournextguitar]

when you say slack, if you mean for the string while your winding it - that will just cause tuning issues - if you mean you should wrap a few more coils - it's really personal preference the laws of physics don't like so they aren't really necessary, but some ppl swear you need them, but you really do not. they might possibly have some benefit for deep drop tunings, but aside from that you want the string to be very tight with no slack. I've had my guitar stay in tune a year later after using this method, I don't play my strat too much, and a year later it was still perfectly in tune. The loop locks the string in place so the string can't slide loose - which is what causes the string to lose tune.

[@BryanClark-gk6ie]

@@Findyournextguitar Perfectly in tune a year later? Are you saying every string was perfectly in tune ' tuned to 440 pitch a year later? You didn't tune in between time? What kinda strings are you using? Did you have it in an isolated' humidity controled room? How old is the guitar' body and neck woods dried out?

[@J__C__]

Why is that string tree sitting so low? Look at the angle of those strings. They aren't supposed to go down, then back up to the tuner. There's supposed to be a spacer under the string tree. 🤷‍♂️

[@Findyournextguitar]

They really aren't that low - part of it is the shadow and part of it is the angel I filmed this at. I just got the guitar when I was filming this - it was the first set of stings I put on it. Yes the string tree spacer is missing, yes it matters - but not all that much - it varies from guitar to guitar. When the strings aren't properly aligned then it can create tuning instability... However, I'd like to point out that the current Gibson les pauls being manufactured today still have a much steeper angle and most people don't have a problem with it because they lock their strings and lubricate where the string touches the nut. The key is to reduce friction between the nut and the strings as well as any surface the strings touch so they can vibrate freely. There's isn't necessarily a right or wrong way - I think we could agree having the strings even and not a steep angle a best practice, because it will cause less frustration with tuning and less wear on your guitar / strings. But it doesn't mean the guitar won't tune or be playable. Some people swear the gibson les paul angle gives it a sharper sound and twang (which it does) it's really kind of personal preference as well as what spinfoil hat guitar magic you believe. Personally, I was just being lazy and didn't want to re shoot the video, my go to is my paul reed smith where I don't have to have a stupid string tree because they drilled the holes in a sensible spot and they aren't at a sharp angel like Gibson. I only need to tune my guitar once every 3 months if I don't change strings.

[@J__C__]

Actually, now that I watch the vid closely, I'm almost sure that's what I did. I cranked it the wrong way so the tuck & wrap didn't lock correctly. Ugh! I hate being an amateur 🤣 There went $8 for strings lol I'm almost positive as I was still thinking "lefty-loosy righty-tighty" and just watched you crank left to tighten them. I'll get it eventually. I swear! 😉😄

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@J__C__ just don't do what I did and push the sharp end of the G string under your thumb nail it really hurts! Be careful with the g, b, and e strings lol... Those are the ones that make you bleed. They are like little needles. 😂 On the plus side - making mistakes is how you find out what doesn't work and learn how to be better... I don't know anyone who hasn't done that at least one time. It took me about 20 tries and I still have to look at a chart or this video to make sure I get it right - so I just upgraded to locking tuners lol. You can get a decent set for about $60 maybe a bit cheaper than that. Just make sure the holes are the right size if you have a strat or tele - you'll probably need to google the specs. They will be modern or vintage, one is smaller than the other... if they are the wrong size for your guitar they won't fit.

[@J__C__]

I forgot I even posted this lol. I'll get some locking tuners soon enough. I'm sure that'll be the first thing I swap out. Yea, I've stuck myself more than a couple of times so far. Doesn't hurt any less now than the first time 🤣

[@doedesjel]

Looks like you're not leaving enough length on every string to be tuned properly at the right tension so that's a big nope! from me

[@Findyournextguitar]

No problem black void, keep stringing your guitar with the un-nessicary wraps - the extra loops are a myth, physics locks the strings in place

[@DugiDevetCarabolium]

03:37 Actually no, this is a waste because when your string break 99% happens on the bridge and then you dont have extra wire length from the tuner to fix it, you need to buy whole pack of new strings or separate 1 string, why if you have on tuner just to fix it? So what i like to do for years now is to do the same thing but i measure the distance of breaking point to the hole in the bridge, how much i need to roll on tuner extra rounds if breaks so i can fix it. Do extra rounds, that is not a waste!

[@Findyournextguitar]

Once the string is crimped you can't use anything above the crimp - if you do this properly you are crimping the string before the wraps and can't use any of the string if it breaks - if they break you should replace them all anyways. If you don't crimp the string before the wrap then it's not locking it in place - the physics of it is there is a lot of friction on the crimp, if it lets go you strings going to slack out of tune, wraping after the crimp doesn't help it at all...

[@DugiDevetCarabolium]

​@@Findyournextguitar I do everything like you, i just do not tight the wire before bending, i leave more and hold with my right hand the wire when i start to bend with my left, to have enough wire to roll back if it breaks on the bridge, i have always at least 3 or 4 circle after bending so i can ALWAYS roll back a least 5cm of wire back if it breaks on the bridge, and that saved me for 7 times now. Thats why is not a waste to roll extra, the waste is when you tight everything and when it breaks on the bridge, no roll back.

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@DugiDevetCarabolium I thought you were saying after - if someone pulls it very tight while winding it - you are correct - it could break - though I've only seen that happen with excessive force or really cheap strings...

[@Findyournextguitar]

@@DugiDevetCarabolium which brings up another point - you should also lubricate your bridge where the strings sit, as well as the saddles - I really like using graphite powder for this, as it isn't oily, though it is still kinda messy it just wipes off - any micronized powder graphite works very well - not pencil graphite because it's mostly clay, which is actually sticky and abrasive... it typically comes in a little powder tube called graphite lock lubricant, you want to make sure you get the powder not the spray, they spray has oils in it. But if you string is breaking on the bridge, it might need filed down or lubricated - I see this happening mostly on fender style bridges, it doesn't happen a lot on PRS or tone-pros style bridges, but that was a good point to bring up - thanks for your comments :)

[@haamishmcgarry]

How to destroy a brand new set of strings

[@kenny.m.olsen95]

How was it destroyed? I just think he should have added a wound and not cut the tips so short personally.

[@mstecker]

For the love of god, stop doing this. It does not help tuning and makes working on the guitar a nightmare.

[@Findyournextguitar]

Matthew...dude what are you talking about??? It makes a substantial differences it doesn't make working on the guitar a nightmare if you do it correctly and don't over wrap it and tie it in a knot.

[@monoonlagoon7641]

This really does not make your string tuning any more stable i call nonsense, i have asked every luthier i have met they all agreed, only helps on nylon strings.

[@Findyournextguitar]

There are a few million people who disagree with you.... I mean you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink... String up your guitar whichever way suits you best. I do have to ask - how many luthier's have you ever met? I don't know I can say I've really ever met one? I mean maybe the guy who ran ESP's custom shop who showed me how to do this, but he's probably full of crap right?

[@TheMisanthropeLives]

I did work for a luthier. For years. We built and finished guitars for Spector, Anderson, Viellette, Sting, Geddy Lee, Richie Sambora, Dave Matthew's, Rex Brown... and he preferred a slightly altered version of the method shown here but with more slack, 3 wraps and not cut quite so short.