[120] Chinese 9-Pin BiLock(ish) Euro Profile Cylinder Picked and Gutted

[@Potti314]

The rust is great. The older the lock gets, the more secure it becomes ;-) Well done on picking and gutting. Thanks for sharing.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Potti314 LOL. Never thought of it that way.

[@laurv8370]

This guy, after picking a *9 pin* lock in *30 seconds* : "pins are a bit rusty, that explains why they gave me _so much_ difficulty", haha, i am laughing here like an idiot and I can't stop... kudos man, well done!

[@brianhignett8954]

Hi Harry, Thanks for showing the .... I hesitate to call it a BiLock copy, because as you said it's nothing like a real BiLock. Interesting none the less. The original BiLock keys start out as a wide rounded "V" they are clipped not cut, and then placed into a folding device that folds them into their final "U" shape. Rough pins in the Chinese lock, but enjoyed the pick. I'm away for 2 weeks. Regards, Brian.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Brian Hignett LOL. I had a funny feeling that me calling this a BiLock would rub you the wrong way... I was waiting for your comment! ;-) And for what it's worth, I completely agree. But clearly, this Chinese maker was hoping to capitalize off of consumer confusion between the two. Also, thanks for the correction on the key clipping/formation process.

[@PapaGleb]

Yep that's exactly the one I have. Thx for the video, I won't be giving this lock any of my time.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Papa Gleb Thanks. If you ever gut yours, please let me know if your driver pins are rusty as well.

[@brillopading]

Excellent - I'm not surprised you broke the lock - you tension really hard - I've never seen a bow in my Sparrows pry bar like you get. In the UK we pay for one Sparrows pry bar what you pay for a whole set. Do you pick disk detainer locks ? - I had to because of my work - they were front openers but I've just got the pick for rear openers but not used it yet. I would have like to try Abloy disk locks but the pick here is stupidly expensive. Another lock that interests me is Medeco with the bi-axial pins and side bar as we had loads at work - I might be able to borrow one even though I have retired from work. Love the picking - you and BosnianBill offer the best picking videos I've seen.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+chris oates Thanks. I do tend to use very heavy tension... for many scenarios, it makes picking much, much easier. I have not tried many disc detainer locks yet. I will eventually make the leap, but for now, I'm spending my "self improvement time" on some nasty sidebar locks (medeco, mt5(+), primus, assa twin, etc). I'm glad you like the videos, and being mentioned in the same sentence as Bill is a huge complement... after all, he's the one who got me interested in this hobby. Thanks.

[@aihtdikh]

@@lockpickinglawyer I didn't realize it was Bill who got you into this! Nice to stumble across this bit of history from before the disc detainer pick that BosnianBill and you made.

[@TallanPick]

Nice work mate, thanks for sharing ;-)))

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Tallan Pick Thanks.

[@l0ckcr4ck3r]

Interesting lock, thanks for sharing.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+l0ckcr4ck3r Thanks.

[@pickbeard2690]

I love the Chinese way of thinking ( put rust on the pins to add extra pick resistance )😂😂😂 Nice picking and thanks for sharing 👍👍😘🍻🔓

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Pick Beard LOL. Honestly, the rough, rusty pins was the hardest part of this pick!

[@wmmt]

So basically this is the Benfolds equivalent... 🤔 Also, I love how the removal key in a BiLock is simply drilled by the locksmith, effectively meaning any operating key can be theoretically converted to a removal key if they knew what they were doing.

[@thelockpickinglebowski633]

I have one of these and the core does not flop. These are actually construction key locks. In Bosnian Bill' video he has one of the (2) key "A" which is not labeled. That's for construction. The remaining (6) of key "B" is labeled "B". If key B has turned the core 360°, then key A will no longer work. Your key bow doesn't look like either of my A or B.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

👍 got it.

[@tonyholt90]

Never seen that type of lock. well done for making short work of it ...

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+tonyholt90 Thanks. I'd never seen it either, until I found it in Lockpicking Bulgaria's eBay store.

[@HG-nv8fk]

Have you picked a real bilock? Have looked through your videos but have not seen any thing, but I could have missed it. Am asking as I have just acquired one and an looking for inspiration and technique. No sense reinventing the wheel. I would think after your videos involving sliders in locks this may need the same wiggle test to see if you have a faulted gate or real gate. Would appreciate your input. Regards HG.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

Yes, but not with regularity. And yes, you only pick sliders in bilocks that are completely seized up. Good luck with it.

[@lourensvanderveen4156]

LockPickingLawyer have you made a video of this? I’m curious of how good they are. Kind regards Lourens The Netherlands

[@FuddButter]

@@lockpickinglawyer I used to sell BiLock here in Aust, I picked one lock, It did take a while, but got there. Everyone said they were impossible to pick.. They are way easier to drill though.

[@crispeybear]

very interesting nonetheless! thank you lpl!!

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+crispey bear Thanks.

[@erikbongnilsson246]

Still seem to be a very difficult lock to pick for almost anyone that don't specifically love picking as a serious hobby, wouldn't you say? Just unfortunate the quality of the hardware is so poor

[@jeffmoss26]

another interesting lock!

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Jeff Moss Thanks.

[@jasminelognnes989]

When you have a lock that you haven't picked before. How do you figure out which pick to choose? And if you have the key, can you then tell which pick that will be the optimal? I mean, some picks are round and other flat at the end and how deep should it be?

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Jasmine Lognnes I'm not going to do this topic justice in a short comment, but here's the very short version. Pick selection is mostly guided by the keyway and (sometimes) by bitting. With a wide open keyway, I will always start with a #1 hook. That’s because the shallow hook is easy to move through the keyway, and the wide flat tip makes it very easy to get positive contact with the pin you are picking. If I can’t reach a particular pin’s shear line because of bitting (something that’s relatively rare on your average lock), I’ll switch to a deeper hook for just that pin. With a paracentric keyway, I will usually go straight to a #7 hook. See my video #82 for why I like that pick for paracentric keyways. Now for the pick tip. You are correct that some are flat and others are rounded. Still others (half diamond, gem) are pointy. Let me explain why. It all relates to how you insert the pick into the keyway, and get it past the pins that hang down. With a shallow hook like a #1 hook, because the hook is so short, you usually don’t have any difficulty slipping it under pins. As such, you can afford to use a wide flat tip with a pointed front. When you get to deeper picks (like the gem or #7) that flat shape with a pointed front would make it near impossible to move the hook to the back of the keyway without getting stuck on the pins. As such, the fronts of the hooks are angled (like the gem) or curved (like the #7) to facilitate maneuvering the pick under the pins hanging down into the keyway. Of course, that curved/angled shape makes it more difficult to firmly apply force to a pin without slipping off, but that’s the compromise you need to make. I hope this was helpful.

[@jasminelognnes989]

+LockPickingLawyer Thanks a LOT for that detailed explanation! I never used any of the deep hooks before, but after watching your gem of of a #82 video, it really improved my picking! I still haven't picked any locks open yet, but now at least I could find all the pins and press them up one by one. =) After picking for 2 hours since reading your comment, I have the some following up questions, if that is ok?: Ok, so the curved/angled pick shape is to mimic the front of a key, and only (?) used for the pins in the back? For now I only want to spend my time on standard pins. Is there a quick (?) test you can do to reveal if all pins are standard before doing the actual SPP? Is there a way to tell if the lock have very good tolerances before doing the SPP'ing? When a lock have good tolerances, how does it feel for you when picking it? What I mean is, I suppose it must give almost no rotation after setting a pin, so when you apply tension, and press on the pins (on a lock with good tolerances); will all the pins then feel more or less the same, because your tension can press on more than one pin? The reason I am asking is because I am sitting with a very old Ruko, and even with heavy tension all pins feel just as springy...

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Jasmine Lognnes (1) You are correct that the curved/angled front of the pick is very much like the angled front of a key, and it serves the same purpose. That’s a good way to think of it. It is most useful in the back of the keyway, but since companies generally don’t make flat-topped medium/deep hooks, you need to use it for the whole lock. It would be a PITA to switch off anyway. (2) There is no easy way that I know of to test is all the pins are standard, but you really don’t need to test. I treat every lock as if it contains nothing but standard pins until the lock tells me otherwise by providing feedback and/or a false set. (3) Tolerances can mean many different things. Usually when people talk about good tolerances, they are referring to core/housing fit. You can tell if a lock has good core/housing fit by wiggling the core in the housing. If there is a significant amount of play (like most kwiksets), it has bad tolerances. On some of the very best tolerance locks (like many kabas), you will not feel any movement at all, and you can’t even insert a shim from the back! The amount of rotation is less important... that usually deals with pin/hole fit, which is not often important to pickers. For pickers, another tolerance of concern is the hole alignment, which affects binding order. A sign of this type of tolerance is all of the pins binding at once, but not firmly. This makes picking pretty hard! The way to deal with that is absurdly heavy tension. If that doesn’t work, start looking from something else blocking rotation (check pin, sidebar, etc.) (4) Most Rukos are a little tough for a beginner, and many are too difficult for even the most accomplished pickers! Don't feel bad if you don't get far with it. I'd suggest concentrating on easier locks for now. If it makes you feel better, several of my videos are of locks that I couldn't open when I first got them, but opened easily when I revisted them a few months later (I've only been picking for about a year, so I'm a relative beginner myself).

[@jasminelognnes989]

+LockPickingLawyer 1: Ok, really good to know. 2: The reason I would like to test for all standard pins is so I find the once I should begin with =) 3: Very interesting to hear about the various tolerances! For me that was hole alignment before reading this. 4: Ok, then I will save the Ruko for a later time =) Wow, that is impressive that after just one year your now picking the most nefarious locks! Do you buy them at ebay/Amazon? I tried to search for locks on those sites, but each gives me ~700k hits, and what I really want are just those that sells a bunch of old locks.

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Jasmine Lognnes Ebay is where I get most of my locks... that and from fellow pickers in trades. As for ebay, knowing what you are looking for is important. You can't just search for locks, or the results will be overwhelming. Searches like "used American padlocks," "used sc1 sc4 kik cylinders," etc. will give the best chances of finding good practice locks.

[@pinpickers1175]

might be a knock off but still good to watch

[@lockpickinglawyer]

+Pin Pickers Thanks.

[@RAkers-tu1ey]

nice pick... terrible lock