Log Splitter Upgrades - Part 2

[@HillBilly-wc4dl]

You just saved me from making a big mistake. I was minutes away from ordering those stroke limiters and thought I should watch a video about them before ordering. Very thankful I did. THANK YOU for posting this.

[@davidferrell1876]

Nothing ventured nothing gained. Thank you for the video.

[@gadgethunter5732]

Sounds like a job for a shear pin, or a lower pressure bypass setting? When I saw that cylinder jump I felt the dread.

[@Ddabig40mac]

You goofed. You owned the mistake, paid for it, learned something, and shared your lesson with others. Thank you. I don't get why some people would leave nasty comments.

[@nicholascremato]

As long as his wife does not find out, it's fine.

[@767dag]

Agreed

[@CTSCAPER]

@@nicholascremato They always find out....

[@mattchildress4136]

You know who doesn’t make mistakes splitting wood? Those A holes that watch KZbin videos and have never split a piece of wood in their life. Forget about the haters, and super appreciate the advice as I stumbled across your video looking to do the same thing to my log splitter

[@beludo06]

Your tool, which you bought with your money. You broke it using how you saw fit, and paid your money again to repair it. After all that said and done, you shared the experience and lesson with the rest of us. You sir, are the real mvp. Brush off any negative comments you may receive!! Keep up the great work!! Cheers!

[@joelgarcia1085]

Awesome video and it takes a great man to admit his mistakes.... Everybody makes mistakes, however, either we blame it on the machine, the manufacturer or the parts.... But few of us don't accept the responsibility of our actions, Innovation is great... Kudos to you!.. Thank you for sharing your lessons. Keep your videos coming... They are a contribution to us.

[@lwwarren]

I'm about 9 years late, but you can easily make an extension for that table with some cheap EMT and some couplers from a big box store with nothing more than a screw driver and a hack saw.

[@CTSCAPER]

Better late then never! I haven't done it yet so I'll keep that in mind.

[@DanKlein_1]

just saw this now. loved the 2 videos. I thought the cylinder stoppers were a great idea. I use those as a stop for my brush hog. not until your video did I even think about where they may be applying pressure to damage the splitter. I just assumed that part of the splitter was indestructible and that was an ingenious way to shorten the unneeded stroke of the cylinder. That failure is nothing to be ashamed of. I hate you had to bear the cost for all of our education but I do appreciate the knowledge I gained from this.

[@thistlefarmer9114]

Anyone can make videos. It takes real class to make videos about one’s own mistakes so the rest of us can learn from them.

[@rickhettwer854]

Thank you for the demonstration on the cylinder stops. This is good to know. I appreciate you sharing it with us.

[@otterman1193]

Good to see your log splitter is back in action. Nice video......thanks for the tips. The drain tube looks very handy. Have fun splitting wood.....

[@LongBinh70]

Thanks! I just saw those shaft spacers in a catalog last week and was going to try them. My homemade splitter has a 24" opening, but I only split 18" logs. That extra 6" doesn't seem like much, on every stroke of a dump trailer full of logs, the time adds up. Greetings from the other side of the Housatonic!

[@CTSCAPER]

It is frustrating standing there watching the cylinder move but accomplishing nothing. So frustrating. I've started keeping my hands on the handle to stop it and accepting if I let it auto-return all the way when I go get another log its part of the process and there's nothing I can do about it.

[@Highnz57]

You live, you learn and you post it on KZbin. Then we get to learn from other people's mistakes. Pretty expensive mistakes too. Thanks for uploading

[@CTSCAPER]

It was a hard decision to make to post the videos but I hope they save others some frustration. Thanks for watching.

[@billjohnson5951]

Just a comment. @5:27 that "birch" sure looks like poplar or aspen. Good video.

[@CTSCAPER]

It's the difference between common names and scientific names, which is kind of like potato potatoe. The scientific name of that log is Betula alleghaniensis, but people around the world can call it whatever they prefer depending on where they live. Here is a video of the tree kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqmqh5Kvg7qXf6s .

[@billjohnson5951]

Thanks for the video. I now agree that is a birch!

[@CTSCAPER]

I was wrong; that is Betula lenta, the Black Birch. @@billjohnson5951

[@nicholascremato]

I have seen some amazing German log splitters for the home but they were 14 GRAND!!!! This splitter seems great!!!

[@TNPFan]

I appreciate your candor and willingness to allow us to learn (and save $$) from your experiences. Great videos, keep them coming!

[@garrisonaw]

Whoever told you the auto-detent only works if the cylinder goes all the way back was full of BS. Just their way of justifying charging you an arm and a leg for a new cylinder. The auto-detent function is in the control valve, not in the cylinder. The valve is a simple open/close operation - it has no idea what position the cylinder is in. It releases when the pressure reaches a certain PSI, which happens when the cylinder stops moving, causing the pressure to build up.

[@davesmith8936]

It looks like that the pressure has to get so high that it strips the threads though because thats the load path with those collars on. Without those the piston bottoms out in the cylinder and that's what drives up the pressure. The cylinder is designed to take that force.

[@kutzbill]

@david m That is an excellent point. I have repaired a ton of cylinder threads and have charged about $100.00 if I rebuilt the cylinder too. Repaint it, and for practical applications you could call it new, but it is a rebuilt cylinder. Still, you could tell the customer I have the new one for $500.00 or a rebuilt one for $250.00, but I need the core back. If you buy a new one they should offer the old cylinder back, and perhaps this was done, I don't know. You also could have simply put a shear bolt through the connection and repaired it too. All the real force on the ram is going forward, (unless you use the spacers), so a shear bolt would have worked fine.

[@MrThenry1988]

It has to go all the way back. The pressure in the valve kicks it in neutral. You can't try and stop the yoke. Before enough pressure builds, the yoke strips out just like it did.

[@delbovingdon1824]

All he had to do is rethread the eñd of the cylindet or tac it back on and take a grinder to it if you ever have to repack the cylinder and your correct on the valve because there is always bark and broken wood and debris getting built up on the back stroke and my champion kicks the valve off earlier without pulling my threads threw the yoke and if you don't want it to stroke out so far saving time simply put something at the other end between the block of wood and the end plate like a piece of split wood!!

[@ericpeterson336]

Thanks for showing us what happened. Showing your mistakes helps the community learn.

[@CTSCAPER]

It was a very difficult decision to make.

[@cptophers4626]

I would find another dealer. Those 2 pieces could have been welded and given you years of service. I hope they gave you your parts back.

[@spikedominikovichspikearoo1900]

Like your video i changed the right angle joints (create more heat )for smooth half rounds joints on my hydraulic hoses this helped heeps also move your side catchers down past the cutting bar this will help with your logs entering the catcher i have the same log splitter Northstar in Scotland keeped on stopping after 10 minutes running in the end was the spark plug cheers and thanks

[@Tom.M_nz]

Another great video, John. Always look forward to your uploads. Thanks, Tom.

[@daveboyt6810]

I love the intro (especially the falling tree), and camera angles you used, and no distracting music. Glad you got the splitter running, and in the context of the money you're saving by burning firewood, you're still coming out ahead. I'm looking forward to Part 3 when you work out a better way to control the stroke and add extensions to the table to keep wood from falling off. You could use pipe or tubing that fits over the rod to make extensions, or bolt a back plate on the grate. Next time I play horseshoes, I want you on my side! Thanks for the video!

[@danryan3146]

I thank you for sharing your experience with the collars...I may have tried using them if I happened to spot them on the shelf in my local TSC.

[@neonc2c2]

slide pvc pipe or conduit over the round stock to fill in the space on table

[@CTSCAPER]

I like that idea!

[@joeh4295]

That's actually a really good and easy idea.

[@mannythegraniteguy]

You're a stand up guy and thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@lonefeather4602]

I think a cylinder rebuild should have been the call. You took it without a rant. Good man!

[@CTSCAPER]

It took a lot of strength to stay calm as I explained what happened on camera.

[@mechcntr7185]

The cylinder was probably fine except for the threads. Could a machine shop not have fixed it?

[@lescooper1198]

On your damaged end of the cylinder you can bore a hole through it and the splitting head.Then install a pin to connect it together. Makes it easy to remove for any repairs to the cylinder or splitting wedge.

[@eugenewillsey2135]

looking at the table grate. at 1:22 the c beam part of the table should go further on to the I beam, of the log slitter .by about 3 inches.

[@timwalker5515]

Thank you for sharing...sometimes great ideas become learning moments. I agree that the table needs to fit your splitter. Hopefully Timberwolf is listening.

[@compdude551]

Does the table push in any further? It looks like it’s barley hanging on. That would help your problem a little with wood falling.

[@alientrade]

Awesome log throwing at the end. I mean it. Nice videos. I was going to try to put something on my ram to stop it from going all the way back. Well, you convinced me not to do that.

[@sandypidgeon4343]

Like your videos. I just picked up a TW-2 that has the 240 engine. They improved the length of the log cradles, making them solid (rather than attached with bolts) with the log lift attached to the cradle). They also added bolts to secure the log tray; however, you have to unbolt them for travel - I'm looking for some quick release bolts, but, this did correct the problem. >>> QUESTION: How do you drain the hydraulic fluid as my manual does not have the procedure. I called the company and they said to disconnect (after de-pressurizing) the hose from the pump to the return. I was wondering if you had done this, and, is it the easiest way rather than pumping the fluid out? BTW, a few teaspoons of SeaFoam in the gas tank on each fill seems to keep the carb clean from the ethanol. Thanks much. GOD Bless

[@CTSCAPER]

I've never changed the hydraulic fluid or filter. It sounds like a great idea! My dealer said the pressure gauge will tell me when to change the filter, which will most likely be a very long time. I wonder if you could use a vacuum pump like this kzbin.info/www/bejne/maCWg6GQa76JosU (Shameless self-promotion) and drain most of the fluid out on a regular basis. The upgrades to the machine sound really nice, especially the log trays. Moving a log splitter is never fun, especially without a tractor or quad for help.

[@sandypidgeon4343]

@@CTSCAPER Thanks CT - this seems a bit easier to move than my last one which was a 27 ton horizontal/vertical splitter. I have a pump like that. Last question for you. Does your engine have the separate oil tank for the centrifugal clutch mechanism? Thanks much. GOD Bless

[@CTSCAPER]

@@sandypidgeon4343 Hmmm. I'm not sure on that one. There may be a tiny tank with some oil on it where the clutch has its joint that's designed to give. I have several videos about the splitter, you may be able to spot that part of the motor.

[@sandypidgeon4343]

@@CTSCAPER Thanks. It has a separate oil dipstick on the left side - I've never encountered that before, and, it talks about that in the Honda engine guide they gave me....just wondering if it was truly separate - probably is - good videos you have! GOD Bless

[@jameschandler2776]

I have had 3 TW-1's . I trade them in about every 5 years. They are great units. I just got a new one last week. It is the best one I have had yet. I do about 20 cords of wood per year. Mine handles oak, hickory, elm, maple, and locust without a hitch. It will handle stuff that it takes 2 of us to put on the splitter.

[@MrKappers71]

I spent all my childhood summer vacations splitting and bagging wood. I fully understand what you were going for with the idea. It's a shame the cast iron ripped out.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

The reason you liked the other splitter so much is that it's backwards from yours. You're running the split wood and wannabees back through every time but the other one kept the unsplit wood on the beam and you just threw the split piece. No wonder. I ended with a stand up job and it's waist high, perfect. MOved the engine/pump back 8 inches to get it out from the wood drop zone and replumbed and remounted the hydraulic valve from the side to the top of the cylinder so it can be used from both sides. Backed the hi/lo down so the engine doesn't have to strain so much and my wood hauling buggy fits right over the engine so it's protected and the right height to hold large halves till they get split. You can have that back breaking rig. I also drilled a hole in the wedge and filled it with old rags and lube the beam with used oil. And I can even use it in the upright position but that's a back breaker too.

[@jasnh9392]

I was hoping you were going to explain what those white things actually intended to do for the cylinder as an upgrade?

[@jasnh9392]

Good job from what I can see.

[@m16ty]

Just now saw your video, and it wasn't the stroke control sleeves that broke your cylinder rod. That same cylinder is used in applications where they pull as much as they push, so they are designed for that threaded part to hold rated pressure on return. I have seen the sleeves themselves break (they are just made of cast aluminum), but that cylinder rod and yoke was on its's way out anyway. I would imagine it was ran loose for some time, and all the back and forth wore on the threads, and it was already weak. Granted, it would have probably ran for years with the worn threads, because there is normally very little return pressure on that joint. That being said, I wouldn't have bought a new cylinder. I would have went to a welding shop and have him weld the yoke onto the rod for probably $20.

[@benscoles5085]

Great Vid, the ending was really good, got my laugh for the day, now I am going out to split some wood.

[@markmathews5117]

Must have been some crap comments form people that have never made a mistake. Thanks for the video.

[@Paladin-wz8gl]

So there's no way to re-thread when that happens? With a tap and die set?

[@ktmpasser]

Not enough material left on rod to clean up the boogered threads. Best fix for that application would be to re-assemble it, drill 1/4 hole through both parts and run a bolt through to act as a roll pin. Oh well, live and learn.

[@johnkennedy5655]

Good video got my subscription easily enough extend the table if you can get pipe to slide over the pipe that's there

[@williamdowell7646]

I believe you could have had the striped cylinder rethreaded and the splitter retapped and bushed a lot cheaper. If worse came worse you could have welded it back together. We all live and learn

[@muellermaxwell]

Welding would probably warp the cylinder, but it could be repaired a multitude of other ways

[@davidbiros6231]

Anyone that tells you they have never made a mistake is a fibber. At least you have the guts to admit it and help people at the same time. Forget the trolls, keep making great video's.

[@SeriousSchitt]

And mistakes, so that I can keep learning.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Last year's Christmas tree, top of a separate pile

[@johndoe-zk1yu]

tack weld some rebar in the pipes to catch the small pieces.

[@barwood2x2]

Is it possible to move the cradle toward the wedge by one hole? I am only assuming the 3 bolts that hold the cradle are equal spacing, moving the cradle would close the gap That’s my no cost thought! IF this is possible, then drill a new hole and mount the cradle securely. My question to Timberwolf would be, why are the cradles so short? Having an out-feed table is nice. I added one to mine 2 years ago and also a 42” in-feed table for logs ready to be split. Both in-feed and out-feed tables are made from wood. Thanks for sharing your experiences and solutions, although this one costly, but a much happier ending you had in this video. Bryson

[@barwood2x2]

***** The cradle(s) I am referring to, are the 2 wings mounted to the beam when you first place the log on the splitter. Maybe the next time you use the splitter, this will seem clearer. I’m sure you will come up with your own solution that suits you best. It’s time for my last load of wood in the heater for the night and one big glass of water to guarantee I’m up early before the fire gets too low.

[@OnchiotaHunter1977]

I didn't read all of the comments so someone has probably already suggested this. What if you took the two red wood holders that were already on your log splitter and moved them towards the new table maybe 6-8 inches. I think this wood solve your problem. Also sorry you had to make such a costly mistake with breaking your cylinder but the machine looks like it's in real good shape and well worth fixing. Now it should give you years of good service. On the bright side this video should help keep others from making this mistake in the future. Again if some suggested the same thing I am sorry don't mean to step on anyone's toes. Love the videos can't wait to see more.

[@shanechambless8]

The threads on the cylinder couldn't be chased just wondering

[@dbrownjr.1410]

If u don't know, u don't know. Live and learn. That's how you really find out. Thanks for the information.

[@gregbrooks9546]

I have never owned a splitter but have rented them. Do you wished it had the vertical splitting capacity to do those 200 lbs pieces. Thinking about buying the tw p1

[@bosdad7]

Never go back to that dealer, you got screwed ! that ram was an easy fix. not to mention you could have gotten a brand new cylinder shipped to your door for about 150.00 and done the job yourself. it's two pins and two hoses.

[@charlesmckinley29]

I agree the dealer hosed you hard. There was probably only one set of threads stripped. Running a die over the ram end probably could have brought it back to work. Worst case I would drill through the wedge and end of the ram and put a bolt through to hold it. Or replaced the cylinder myself as Bo's dad suggested.

[@Mad.Man.Marine]

Or how about just pinning the end on by drilling a hole through both the clevis and the cylinder rod. If you do it right the rod would be bottomed out in the clevis bore so the pin would only take the stress of the return cycle. Which isn’t much

[@georgeanderson3754]

Couldn’t you have welded it?

[@chrisbond8821]

If the table is made of tube, why not stick some solid bars inside the tubes you want to extend and stop logs falling back?

[@chrisbond8821]

+Land Designs Unlimited LLC If you wanted it to look really smart, you could then slot more tube over the bar so it all looks the same, but that may be getting carried away! let us know if the idea works though. As you said, I don't understand why the table is made like that anyway.

[@crappiefishingmississippi]

Have you had any hydraulic ruptures with the system yet?

[@timroy51]

why couldn't you have drilled and pinned it ?

[@lindarobinson195]

Like your hat. Like top of the pile near cowtown on country road south west of woodstown nj i noticed a woodpole like yours but must of had a coverbelt machine it was slender and tall like the empire state building in nyc yours truly Evans w Robinson ret sgt

[@billhauck6425]

It DSlate but you cylinder could have been repaired. I am an ex machinist and a welder. If you still have the cylinder it could be worth 200 to 250 broken. Sorry for your loss.

[@kutzbill]

Kind of funny, when I lived in Illinois, I cut wood at my Uncle's land, and I had Oak and Hickory, some Black Locust, and Cherry. I knew I had it good, but I didn't know how good. Out here in Colorado, Oak goes for $600 to $700 for a cord! One place sells non-seasoned Oak for 15 cents a pound. The only wood I can get for free is Cottonwood, and some Elm, and the occasional Willow. I get the wood nobody else wants, like the huge knuckles and just plain big ones. I made a log splitter back in Il., but out here I bought a Earthquake 22 ton unit. It has performed quite well, splitting some Cottonwood over 50 inches Dia. I have another project one, but I am going to have to re do a lot of it. The one I made before I had 2ea 6" cylinders set up one over the other. I had them set up so if the first cylinder was pushing hard, the solenoid opened up and then both cylinders pushed. With a V-4 Wisconsin 42HP, and a 45 GPM 2 stage pump, it could split all day and not even breathe hard. I put a lift on it, and used a 12 inch I-Beam with a 3/4 " web and 1" thick flanges. I actually bent the I-beam on a big piece of elm. For the money ($800.00 new) the Earthquake has performed admirably for a 22 ton, but I am looking for a bigger one to be able and split the big ones I have. I have had people make fun of me, burning Cottonwood, but the first year I moved to Colorado, I used 3 tanks of Propane, (500 gal), and now I use about 200 gallons per year. Laugh if you will, but a local tree service is happy to dump the wood off, rather than paying the landfill to dump it there. I was looking at the 37 and 42 ton ones, but after seeing the issues they had with those, I am going to have to take a hard look at what I can get. Cycle time is not that important to me, but durability and power is. A firewood processor is pretty much useless with the kind of wood I have. When I saw the little attachments on your splitter, I thought that stripping the thread might happen, but the only reason I suspected it was going to happen is that we did the exact same thing on a reaction molding press. Fortunately, I had a machine shop at my disposal, and I could weld up the ram, and re-machine the threads on it, and do the same thing for the female part. Still took some time. Thanks for the free info and for posting!

[@michaeldoidge1838]

The reverse release pressure is controlled by a spring and ball in the control handle. Not the actuator.

[@TheUncommonKIBBLES]

how many ton?

[@Thebowzer221]

John, very good video, once again. When I saw those collars for the piston I thought they wood B crushed on the return. They held up but busted the end of the piston. Do u think u should notify the company that their collars can cause this type of expensive damage? I enjoy your videos. Watching from Florida, as a former resident in what was formerly the Great State of CT, Thanks 4 doing what you do.

[@gregbrooks9546]

Hi John, I am wanting to buy my first log splitter and trying to justify the cost of buying the Timberwolf TW-P1. However, my local Lowes has the Dirty Hands splitter 20T which is the same power for half the price. Just curious to know why you went with the Timberwolf.

[@CTSCAPER]

If you look at it you can see it's built beefier than the others in that size. The Timberwolf is a lifetime machine and parts can be easily obtained through the dealer. Not sure how that works for the Dirty Hands one. I'm sure they're both good splitters but if you can save the change the Timberwolf if Great. P.S. I bought mine used because I couldn't handle the cost either.

[@jerrywayneray]

I purchased a new TW5 as well, due to the extra beefy they build these. I custom ordered one with a 36" ram - so as it can split logs up to 36". I have the log life, table grate, 4 way, and 6 way wedge.. love MOST of this. However, as seen in his video, mine does the exact same thing, in that roughly 40% of what I split falls between that gap.... :(

[@mpccenturion]

yeh- getting fooled on the short-shifter is one thing that hurts the pocketbook. I opted for an electric splitter. I think its 4 ton capacity. In all the years, we only had a couple really twisted elm's that would not split green. After a year of drying as whole, they all broke. Its about 1/2 the Gas splitter and it means working closer to the house. But we had a woodhouse on the south side of the home. 3 steps and you were in the house, back and forth. In the house we had a steel catch-all for about 2 days wood. It has worked the last 10 years and still sees action. Cheers

[@wackedcanadian1264]

hey bud canada here u just saved me i was thinking or doing the same thing with spacers a buddy told me we need a hydrlic tether type switch it t sin the lines place it on i beam chanel to set it to the length u want i hate letting mine go back t far then wait for it to come ahead only takes 5 seconds but times that at about a thousand times lol so thanks and sorry for u to

[@Annegers83]

I know it's a old video but slide the wings back to take up for the gap in the table

[@harmab2]

thank you for the video's, it was a learning experience

[@jameschandler2776]

Some nice looking ash. Unfortunately I have been burning a lot of that the last few years. All of mine have died.

[@1armedguy4]

I've used a good many wood splitters over the years and from what I've seen of yours it wood be close to the bottom of the barrel as far as use ability and performance is concerned, just my two cents worth !!

[@scottladd5692]

I was going to do something similar that would trip the handle. Some sort of linkage. I rethink it and thought it would be more trouble. Maybe you could have drilled a hole and inserted a pin. A lot less than 500

[@alexanderkerr3878]

Why do you split your wood so small?

[@benmillard3755]

I've seen people drill through the shaft and just insert a grade 8 bolt, just a thought to save $500

[@denifitz1]

mine is made like that from factory

[@gtb81.]

Could you have maybe re-cut the threads?

[@jasnh9392]

I thought you were in CT how are you not under 10 feet of snow?

[@jasnh9392]

***** Near about! Keep up the good work on the videos man!

[@mjallenuk]

haha ... really enjoyed that ... honest and fun ... keep em coming chap ;o)

[@michealodonovan95]

why not weld the rod to the end same result it works and saves 500

[@Fentanyl3]

The coupling needs to have slack so the ram itself doesn't break from off center forces. A cylinder ram is extremely tough, although it cannot withstand lateral forces.

[@Fentanyl3]

the clevis should allow for a lot of lateral flex, it didn't occur to me that the previous poster was perhaps actually suggesting the clevis being welded to the rod. that fix would work great except for requiring rod end machine if the clevis ever failed.

[@michealodonovan95]

im saying pull out an angle grinder and grind down the broken thread and weld the crap out a it not replace the whole rod nothing to lose

[@ronaldpotts7436]

I run stroke limiters all the time but the ends that screw onto the rod are steel not cast or mandible iron. This end had probably been ran loose at some point in time causing it to be damaged in the past and setting it up to fail whoever had of done this.

[@pignuts9797]

your dump truck is cool

[@garrydoucette3335]

I would drill a 1/4" hole thru in both the threaded shaft and push bolk and drop in a bold --- Full fix---$0.75

[@PapaRug.58]

We have all bin der dun dat that’s how we learn A good hydraulic shop should be able to either repair other end thread on that cylinder if you kept it

[@donaldchristen6862]

I would have welded it. Worst case u have to get a new one anyway

[@jayv7404]

It could not have been rethreaded?

[@CTSCAPER]

I've heard that a lot. Where do you take a hydraulic cylinder to be re-threaded. I'll have to remember that for next time.

[@pignuts9797]

what kind of dump truck are you sitting on at the start of this video?

[@pignuts9797]

looks like a nice truck i have a 12x7 dump trailer. I have to drop off the skid loader and go back for the dump trailer.

[@rc391995]

Mine slowed a seal between the cylinder and piston by the time I took it and went to pick it up for hundred more dollars I bought a brand new splitter. If I can build a tool to make cylinder apart I might try to change seal myself . anybody know where a cells get a print like that ? Its a 20 ton splitter I don't know if that the designation to look for or not I'd think a 7 or 8;ton would be out of question. Everything breaks man most times it's something I didn't do right.

[@rc391995]

Bought cylinder not whole splitter had it drop shipped for about $350

[@rc391995]

Damn if you don't watch auto correct nothing comes out right. Anybody know where to get the seal oring or whatever it is between cylinder and piston. I like working on things thought I'd see if I could fix the old one. I've got nearly enough parts to build a second one for very little money might sell one or both im getting to old to try to keep a stove burning. One thing about it you can run around in only underwear you stay warm

[@johnme7049]

As far as the table grate, take some steel water, (not electrical), pipe with an inside diameter large enough and cut lengths that will slide over the pipes forming the table and reach to the machine filling the gap.

[@CTSCAPER]

I like that!

[@jerrywayneray]

i have a TW5, SAME issue. Mine was custom ordered with the 36"splitting ram splitter for longer piesces. 40% of what I split falls into that gap on my timberwolf as well.

[@fxpestoperator5527]

Brother, I don't know if this would have worked, but couldn't you have just welded the wedge back on the shaft for free?

[@phillipwashburn2424]

Failure ,brings knowledge ! It happens to all of us. Therefore ,continue on,I see NO Reason for any tee, teeing, Right ??! Naugatuck,Connecticut Great job,thanks for all your great videos.

[@MrRandom750]

alright, I figured it would have been a bit more. those AG style Pistons are usually about 200 to 300$ for that size and tonnage. the re-shims probably about 20 to 50 and labor to put it all in. if that happens again take a look for a local hydraulic shop cause I guess that piston rebuilt is around 175 ish. just trying to save some dough. what part of CT are you from?

[@CTSCAPER]

Perhaps next time I'll give it a go. I'm in the Southwest Corner of CT.

[@MrRandom750]

ah ok I grew up near the Cheshire area

[@CTSCAPER]

That's a beautiful area.

[@kjinohio5897]

Honestly it was more of an adjustment issue on the auto cycle valve in my opinion. If you were holding the handle and making it squawl I could see it but the auto cycle should have a pressure kick off/out I hope they let you keep your old cylinder as it can be used by someone else. We had a homemade that the slide broke off under pressure and it had a lot of slop before hand. Broke the rod off at the first cut thread(weakest spot) In a bind on a weekend so I took it to the shop and penciled both ends and welded it up. Dad went and bought another cylinder for it and we figured we'd switch it out once it broke. It never did in 20 years. I made my own splitter up with all the ideas I've had in my mind of what I wanted. Swing away tables, waist high working height, swing boom with winch to lift and hold the big ones. Check it out and it will put a Timberwolf in it's place. imageevent.com/kevininohio/woodsplitter?n=0&z=2&c=4&x=0&m=24&w=0&p=0 I admire you for posting the mishap and being up front about it. I really like your videos by the way.

[@kjinohio5897]

I worked on a farm for 12 years starting while I was in High School. We used those collars all the time for new kids working ground so they wouldn't go too deep with tillage equipment. they would bottom them out and squeal the hydraulics all the time. NEVER had one break or pull through. In looking at your first video again, Your slide moves all over the place and the cylinder is bucking up, sideways and such. BAD situation as has WAY too much movement. It's either wore or badly designed. My guess it it worked the threads enough to basically wear them out. Could have been bad threads to start with too. Some of the collars have pinch bolts to basically lock threads tighter but I do not see that on your collar. I never liked using collars, especially aluminum ones as they can scuff the rods or gall metal on them. this will kill the seals quicker causing leaks. My adjustable stop on the splitter I built hits the slide from underneath. No issues. Without addressing the sloppy slide, your new cylinder is in for the same fate eventually I fear..

[@kjinohio5897]

Thanks on the splitter. Makes the job fun now. On yours. Don't be so hard on yourself as what you did was not the reason it broke. It was just the straw that broke the camels back. Other issues here.

[@screemer122]

CTSCAPER it dose cost to fix things ,,,but some shops will tell you oh we have to fix it this way ... i hope you kept to old cylinder .. extend it out put a cloth around shaft wet it and weld a new end on ,,not the one that came off .its cast steel .strong but bridal.. use just steel . .. and with it welded you can still rebuild the cylinder .. shops will screw you ..not all of them but they will..they test you see how smart you are and go from there .. .. and the truth about the kick off is it works in the control valve so the add on should have worked they have on mine for years . wish i lived close to you could have fixed yours in a hr

[@randymack1782]

this will go to your post in video 1, but for oil drain, instead of plastic pipe get a empty 1 gallon antifreeze jug, now where lid goes, between lid & handle draw a line top to bottom, now cut it there, now you have a trough with the lid, & you slide it under & let oil drain out lid opening, simple & you can use other items, like oil containers, laundry containers, etc... but works well

[@zack9912000]

Couldn’t you have welded it back on

[@efrostrup]

Get the shaft welded to the yoke for the time being; if it breaks again, we’ll- up to you.

[@nicholascremato]

I would love to build an electric guitar from that red maple!!!

[@mikespain8655]

Five hundred and change is what I paid for my nearly new, used splitter 13 years ago. Still got it.

[@Fentanyl3]

Hey man, You did not break that cylinder, it was was worn out at the threads. That valve has no idea what the cylinder ram position is, it simply kicks it out at a predetermined pressure. The repair man told you that because he also doesnt know, or they want you to belive it was what broke it instead of a poor design. That coupling needs to be drilled for a bolt. to much retract pressure and it simply sheers the bolt. Those rings are designed to protect equipment from a cylinder retracting too far. For example a lot of wheel disk and do-alls can suffered a broken lift frame if a cylinder retracts too far. The ONLY REASON that cylinder coupling separated was because the threads were well worn, and the disk exerted enough pressure. you could have had a machine shop cross drill the rod end and the ram slide for a slip fit bolt and gotten 20 more years out of that cylinder WITH the retract limiting rings installed.

[@gregorym9591]

Oh by the way your mistake is a great lesson learned. You seem to be on the ball. I am looking for a machine . But I am trying to do my homework first. ( pro & cons) What could happen to ruin the machine? Ok, do you have an issue with the oil getting to hot after a lot of time operating the machine? Is the vertical machine better than the horizontal . all information would be great.

[@CTSCAPER]

Gregory the oil never gets hot and you could run that machine all day. It's a heavy duty unit. I considered the horizontal/vertical unit but went with the simplicity of a vertical machine. I think I did a review of the splitter and I have no regrets since the review.

[@gregorym9591]

Thanks for the reply.

[@nicholascremato]

The wood looks and sounds good enough to build furniture with!

[@scottleppard3290]

Have you told anyone yet that your wife was on the other side of the pile??? Nice vid!

[@17hmr243]

try not to split the hole log put next log on to push it. ? to stop back falling

[@CTSCAPER]

That makes a lot of sense.

[@johnpuzyr8039]

extend the table by the wedge