The Hardest 3D Printer Nozzles In The Universe: DiamondBack.

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Today we're looking at DiamondBack nozzles - the hardest thing since...well, things. It's diamond. Obviously.
Update! E3D have just announced (yes it's official) a Bambu DiamondBack Hotend - e3d-online.com...
Article about flow rate (Patreon required): lostintech.co....
graphs courtesy of / @3dprintsandleaves
You can buy DiamondBack Nozzles here (amazon UK): amzn.to/3VZmm7Z
or here (amazon international): amzn.to/4cFdque
Also E3D: e3d-online.com...
Prusa MK4: www.prusa3d.com...
FLSUN S1 if you want to achieve high flow rates: lostintech.co....
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Correction:
2:13 - The order is incorrect, the graph should read Diamond, Ruby, Tungsten, Steel, Brass, Copper

[@PraxZimmerman]

The fuzzy inside and outside is because they're cut with a laser. Carbon might have a high boiling point sure but dump 100KW of laser power in a single point and you'll make anything disintegrate. You can use diamond lapping compound to smooth it out if you want, but it's a lot of process time (and consumes a lot of diamond in and of itself (fun fact, the industrial diamond factory I did work for a while back was their own largest customer. 60% of the diamonds they produced went right into lapping compound and grinding wheels so they could cut their own diamond parts)).

[@LostInTech3D]

lasers, of course!

[@dekutree64]

Yeah, laser was my first thought on how to cut them. You don't even need that much power. Diamond isn't heat resistant like other forms of carbon, it will start to burn into graphite at 700C if it's not pressurized.

[@kimmotoivanen]

"Sharks with frickin' DiamondBack nozzles attached to their heads" (sorry 😅)

[@SilvaDreams]

Considering these are synthetic diamonds I might also guess that they are formed in this shape which might also be why they are smooth but still slightly fuzzy.

[@EkiToji]

@@dekutree64 That's because diamond is only metastable at atmospheric pressure. It really wants to be graphite but thankfully for us there's a fairly substantial kinetic barrier that prevents the atoms from spontaneously rearranging.

[@leozolt]

Does it come in 1,5mm? that would be perfect to print heavily filled fibers containing thermoplastics.

[@backgammonbacon]

Diamonds are hard but hardness is measuring resistance to scratching. Abrasion is a different process and hardness isn't a 100% resistance to abrasion. Diamond nozzles will wear down eventually unfortunately.

[@shadowphyre4746]

Great video as usual

[@MVPetroff]

@2:18 the graph is incorrect - hardness of copper is second only to diamond?? Carbide, ruby, steel should be harder than copper as well

[@LostInTech3D]

I've added a correction, it's the order of the labels that messed up

[@deblaiser]

The graph you show at 2:14 is not the correct one. I think it might be the graph for heat conductivity, but definitely not hardness

[@og.StudMuffin]

Not sure but one quick look tells me that it forsure isn't a hardness scale XD

[@LostInTech3D]

oops looks like something messed up there

[@kklogins]

Thnx, that was really confusing me... Back to the rest of the video

[@vacantspace333]

Ofc they put it into a god damn brass body 😒🤦🏻‍♂️

[@LostInTech3D]

Well yes because brass is conductive. Unless you have some data to show that this is an issue then you'll have to go stand with the 50 or so other people who keep commenting saying this will wear, in spite of there being no evidence of that having happened, ever. Not even one person. I am to understand that the company claims to still be using some of their first prototypes.

[@awkwardsaxon9418]

I watched the outro so I won't leave an angry comment about you destroying a perfectly fine phone screen

[@LostInTech3D]

the cover was also already cracked :)

[@CheezeCurdler]

I think your hardness chart was mixed up with the conductivity chart

[@pusnirizda5481]

Thermal conductivity*

[@hippiemcfake6364]

2:16 - Wait, copper is harder than steel and tungsten carbide?? :O

[@uhu4677]

The whole diagramm is totally messed up.

[@beez1598]

I have one of these I purchased inebriated about 3 years ago. 4,000 some odd hours later, across 3 machines. Printing every filament. Zero issues. None. It’s a fantastic piece of kit.

[@LostInTech3D]

best drunk purchase ever

[@beez1598]

@@LostInTech3D it treated me much better than the 5 pound gummy bear!

[@lawrencenenninger1607]

I put a .6 and a .4 on my printers and haven't given a thought to nozzle tips since!

[@shogoonn]

That thing with the grinding wheel at 11:51 is 100% legitimate and real-time. I've once did more or less the same thing. Had to dress a grinding wheel on a dremel. Just touched the spinny thing with a diamond dresser and got a huge groove. Did the job, and the dresser was unfazed, not even a slightest trace of cutting through alumina. The sensation was unreal, I'm used to feeling the grinding wheel removing material and being hard in general, but a diamond cuts through it like it was made of paper.

[@cameronheinricks8571]

As an employee and 3d printer hobbyist they made these for our own 3d designs for cases and custom organization on the production floor of drill bits being made, tool holders etc, when hobby 3d Printing took off that's when they came up with the idea to ramp up production of the nozzles and sell them. I have been printing with the same nozzle for 2.5 years now and its still clean and perfect, thermal properties are much better too that helps with layer adhesion among other things. The heated presses used for this manufacturing process are mind boggling and incredibly dangerous.

[@TouchofDepth]

awesome, is it not recommended to use this type of nozzle with a glass bed?

[@aronseptianto8142]

@@TouchofDepth i suppose just never ever jog it too close to the bed

[@gsdtdeaux7]

@@TouchofDepthonly if you plan on crashing it into the bed. But also, who still uses glass beds? To each is own but thats just old tech. Get a good reputable brand smooth pei and put that glass in the dumpster lol

[@lawabidingcitizen5153]

@@gsdtdeaux7 Glass bedsare cheap and you can replace them with dollar store supplies I guess

[@cameronheinricks8571]

@@TouchofDepth I use it with my glass bed on my CR 10 V3 just have to be sure you set Z offset right and do not crash into the bed, any nozzle can break a glass bed this way

[@maxwell_edison]

"Diamonds! These are real! You probably don't believe me-" Huh? Is there still really people out there who think diamonds are expensive or uncommon? lol

[@eslmatt811]

My son was surprised the first time he saw my diamond tile blade. I explained that pretty diamonds are expensive when you buy them, cheap when you sell them. Other diamonds are common in cutting tools.

[@SilvaDreams]

Yup plenty of people think any diamond is expensive. I've had many people shocked when I told them they could buy like 10 pounds of diamonds for less than 100$ But this diamond is synthetic and formed which is why it's so smooth and shows no cut lines.

[@deaultusername]

cody's lab recovered diamonds from street dust where constructors are cutting

[@TDOBrandano]

There are actually materials harder than diamond, though they are not usually naturally occurring. Lonsdaelite is one and can be found along with diamonds in some meteorites. Others are carbon buckyballs or nanorods, and graphene. But these last, while harder, can only be synthesized artificially, and as far as I know don't create solid compact structures.

[@Jynxx_13]

The glare on the nozzle from the lights @4:16 really shows how smooth the tip is.

[@Gitmo314]

Thank you for reminding me of these nozzles since Zack's video. I wanted one so bad since that video released but none would fit into my Bambu X1C, just googled it and they now sell one for my X1C at E3D's website. I paid $100 for it instantly. Lost in Tech, you have done me a great service thank you, may we both drown in elite printing filaments.

[@LostInTech3D]

Glad to help, yeah those bambu ones are brand new, you'll be one of the first owners!

[@michaeleitel7186]

Sorry to say, but I can not confirm a better flow rate with a revo version. I have a 0.6 and the flow rate is only on par with a normal brass nozzle. I wanted for my R2. 4 a 'never to bother anymore' solution. Wishful thinking. 😢

[@soundspark]

The footage of the nozzle destroying the grinding wheel; diamonds are actually used to dress grinding wheels in industry. When preparing a surface grinder you put a diamond tipped dressing tool on the table and run the diamond across the wheel to make it run true and remove dull/contaminated grit.

[@Slydog43UTube]

I think your hardness scale at 2:19 seems off, Copper is harder than ruby????

[@roderik1990]

Was probably meant to be a thermal conductivity scale instead.

[@Qwarzz]

@@roderik1990 That would make sense

[@nilz__]

Diamondback nozzles are available for many custom printers (I counted 10 different interfaces). They even have them for Bambu printers for example.

[@LostInTech3D]

who has them for bambu printers??

[@parkerbradshaw4122]

​@@LostInTech3D E3D does, can also be seen on the diamondback website

[@username9774]

@@LostInTech3D revo

[@Trevellian]

@@LostInTech3D Believe it's only possible when using the BIQU Panda. It would be great if there were a fully assembled Diamondback Bambu hotend (high flow), like there is for E3D's ObXidian.

[@nilz__]

@@LostInTech3D E3D sells them, but they seem to all be out of stock.

[@mrnukeduster]

I adopted them early on. The .6mm has around 7500 hours on it, printing almost exclusively PA6-CF. Still prints like new. The .4mm clogged around 2000 hours, and as I learned the hard way, do not try to use a torch to melt out the jammed filament. Good brand, nice people behind the design; I talked to them a few times.

[@ares395]

Now I wanna see closeups on the nozzle after getting blasted with a torch

[@nathan-shearer]

I have many of the Diamondback nozzles, and they are absolutely the best nozzles. They are worth it!

[@zachary3777]

Do they make one with a cht style high flow insert?

[@nathan-shearer]

@@zachary3777 As of 2024-09-23 I don't think that they do make one with the CHT 3-way flow splitter inside the nozzle.

[@DrSwolemeister]

wow, just earlier today i saw your 2nd video and was thinking "damn i wonder when part 3 comes out" good looks brother

[@Janovich]

The reason I don't buy these is because Im worried they'll unrecoverably clog. Rather just buy cheap ones and throw them out whenever I have a clog every now and then.

[@username9774]

Can you next do a test of CHT nozzles (also the 2$ aliexpress ones) when it comes to purging in an MMU/AMS? in my experience there is a lot more colorbleed when changing color depending on the nozzle, but I can't really measure that. Can you please

[@LostInTech3D]

Good idea

[@igiannakas]

Indeed you’re right. I’ve had to bump up my flush volumes in both my Voron and Bambu since equipping them with a cht nozzle. Especially black to white.

[@coreyfro]

There has been a diamond filled filament! It actually wants to embrace it all, it was more lubricious. That's another advantage of the diamond nozzles, the surface is incredibly slick so you have very little chance of the filament sticking. The diamond filled filaments also took advantage of the heat conductivity properties of diamond as it was advertised as a high-flow pla. I think that gimmick has disappeared off of the interwebs though

[@TheAdeptGuitarist]

I am curious if the process heats to 1400⁰C why the suggested max temp is 300⁰C everywhere I've looked. Looking specifically for an all arounder nozzle for mainly enclosed technical filaments. The new Polymaker PPS-CF sports a melt temp of around 340⁰C and the YZ-Polymer PPS (CF lackthereof) around the same melt temp.

[@LostInTech3D]

not sure, could be the brass I guess.

[@thomasnixon4440]

If the diamond part is shrink-fit (which seems reasonable), it could become loose at high temperatures? It looks like the theemal expansuon coefficient of PCD is a lot lower than that of brass.

[@cameronheinricks8571]

its the Brass around the tip that is the limiting factor.

[@somhunt5446]

Brass could be the limiting factor, however Tungsten or hardened steel insert variants do not have the same limitation imposed.

[@TrollFaceTheMan]

Poly means many or multiple. A poly crystalline structure means it isn't a solid crystal structure. It has different sub crystals with their own orientations and directions to them. Vs a mono crystalline solid that everything is lined up the same. So kinda like the difference of having a solid block of concrete vs one that you made with fresh concrete but also broken bits of older concrete too. The solid block of concrete is going to form a solid structure that can be subseptable to sheering along structure lines. Whereas the concrete with the old concrete mixed in will have a non solid (Uniform) structure through it becuase of the old concrete chucks having different directions of alignment and such. This helps eliminate fault/sheer lines that a non poly crystalline structure would have. (And is why adding aggregate to concrete or grog to pottery makes it much stronger too.) Poly crystals CAN be stronger in all directions over Crystalline structures. However full Crystalline structures CAN be much stronger in directions of strength depending on the crystals structure. Also monocrystals tend to be more thermally and electrically conductive over poly crystals as the changing directions of crystals causes resitance. That is a big reason why Mono solar panels are a lot better at producing power than poly. But yes in a way Poly crystals are like crystals inside crystals. Vs mono crystals which is just one big crystal.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Pros and cons, as always. Personally, not accidentally breaking the stupidly expensive part because I was a bit rough on it is worth those cons.

[@See-essEll]

I was given a couple for testing and had issues printing polycarbonate with it it actually seemed to stick to it more than with the Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzle I had been printing PC with beforehand. Bridging also seemed to change, as calculations in slicers seem to take into account the filament sticking to the nozzle as it's pulled. With the Diamondback nozzle, it was slipping off instead of getting stretched. Big thing is, you will need to change your temp settings (at least at the flow rates I was using). I was printing PLA at 180 and ABS at 205 with it.

[@Thisdudechannel]

I love my diamondback nozzle. Can you do a macro shot from threaded side of the nozzle to see what the diamond looks like?

[@motopimp2006]

I haven't watched this video yet. I would just like to say that I exclusively print with carbon/nylon. I make production parts for various industries. I cant speak highly enough about these nozzles. When every orint counts, any variable you can remove as a potential problem, the more time and money you will save.

[@Wassermelonenbaum]

Wooaaa wait a second! You didnt print the official "Banana For Scale"??????

[@WaschyNumber1]

I bet in the future Chinese shops will sell nozzles like this for less with the same or better quality. 🤔

[@anthonyfigueroa2395]

I would totally buy that soldiering iron and hot knife add to that too...

[@vientosnomadas655]

i have one of these on my K2 Max and i love it, it prints fantastic and allows me to print CF HTPLA for automotive parts. i have noticed the quality and consistency of my prints is very good as well. well worth the $100 IMO

[@imthedentist]

You should change your name to lost in nozzles at this point

[@username9774]

A whole tungsten carbide nozzle like Oston sells makes more sense in my opinion, it won't crack when you hit the bed too much and is only 43$ on aliexpress

[@LostInTech3D]

I have the phaetus tungsten carbide waiting to do something with :)

[@username9774]

@@LostInTech3D the pheatus one is not completly tungsten and way worse

[@adeo]

​@@LostInTech3D As other have said, the phaetus WC and SiC nozzles use press fit inserts, and those are not good for a multitude of reasons. The best thing is a full WC (tungsten carbide) nozzle, like the bozzle/oston/undertaker/nanoflow/panzarnozzle

[@Hallo132HalloMiau32]

@@LostInTech3D I heard on the voron discord that many people had problems with the pheatus one since it is not a whole tungsten nozzle, just a insert

[@katherinehackworth]

​@@adeowungsten carbide

[@TheElectronicDilettante]

What would be great to see is some of your excellent close up shots of the diamondback nozzle after a large volume of highly abrasive filaments.

[@dekutree64]

12:08 Makes it seem kind of stupid to ever use the exact nominal diameter of the nozzle. I've been using the same 0.4mm for years. Next time I have something to print I'll try setting it to 0.45mm or 0.5mm and see if there's any difference in print quality.

[@LostInTech3D]

Prusaslicer uses .45 for a .4 nozzle on most printer profiles, they kinda already are ahead of the game on this one 😁

[@BasedF-15Pilot]

I have been using a diamondback in my v400 for a year now. It's amazing.

[@TheBaseUK]

I wonder with these nozzles, its just the very tip that has the diamond. So wouldnt the actual brass body wear out from abrasive materials being pushed through it? Scalloping out the inside walls of the brass? Id assume the pressure build up in the nozzle would be enough to cause some wear over time?

[@LostInTech3D]

Not really, but explaining why is quite hard and I'd probably get it wrong. The tip always wears disproportionately too as it's from being dragged over the printed surface

[@ancomscicomm]

I think you got the hardness graph at 2:20 wrong - everything after PCD is backwards, because there's no way copper has a tensile strength of 24.5 GPa

[@timha4102]

Not quite. Tungsten carbide is harder than steel.

[@Kumquat_Lord]

As nice as they are, I prefer a solid carbide nozzle for one reason- the body of the diamondback is brass, and that part can still wear over time.

[@TrollFaceTheMan]

If you are doing a lot of macro shots you might want to look into focus merging to give you a much better DOF on stuff. It can be difficult to see things when the plane of focus is maybe only a mm.

[@Wunderbolts]

I’m no expert but I don’t think the graph at 2:16 makes sense. Copper and brass are harder than tungsten? I use tungsten tools to cut copper and brass at my job all day.

[@LostInTech3D]

there's a correction :)

[@o0Adx0o]

What if the diamond tip nozzel is paired with CHT...It can improve the flow rate ig...

[@LostInTech3D]

that's kind of how the flsun S1 is configured, and how it gets so high flow

[@Shannon-Smith]

Interesting. I wonder how a diamond heatsync would go on a CPU???

[@LostInTech3D]

I'd say yes

[@dbuezas]

Noted: produce a diamond soldering iron tip and ABS with diamonds, and I know whom to sell it to

[@LostInTech3D]

Oh yeah, I'm 100% up for that. I might be the only customer though.

[@TechieSewing]

There is a lot of food for thought in that linked article, but it's a bit hard to chew and digest. Might contain diamonds ;) I used to leave the outer wall with 0.4mm while all the other lines tend to be 0.6mm or more, but that nozzle is some 18 months now, I'd better use wider lines with it.

[@RegularOldDan]

Um, your idea of a diamond-tipped soldering iron sounds fantastic.

[@St0RM33]

2:18..wtf is that chart..def not in the correct order mate

[@LostInTech3D]

see the correction

[@marcusbuschbeck1121]

I own a Gühring Dianoz as V6 Nozzle. But this is very expensive. So i'm impressed of the price for this Nozzle here.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Hardened steel nozzles seem to last me forever, I have had them on my Ender 5 Plus machines for over 3 years and haven't worn yet. It would cost me a small fortune to get a full set of Diamond back nozzles and just for one printer!

[@lonewolfsstuck]

I have a tungsten Carbide nozzle from Dawnblade on my V2 neo and have 0 issue with it and love it, have printed many abrasive things like CFPETG and glow in the dark pla. 0 issues. Only complaint is that there isnt a V6 version so i can use on my other printer.

[@dennisolsson3119]

It would be interesting to see how a filament unloading/change is affected. It looks like there is a lip on the inside where the diamond is seated and where plastic can get stuck and be mixed in after change. Same with "lesser" nozzles having rough insides

[@stratos2]

I would love to have a diamondback nozzle that has the new internal structure which splits the extrusion stream into three with drilling or a copper insert

[@reyd8]

I've been using Diamondback nozzels since they became available for my hotend. I recently tried CHT nozzles, which is what you are referring to, and to be honest, I still got better performance out of my diamondbacks.

[@tasa4904]

As a sidenote, these nozzles can clog. They're not cheap so you're likely going to keep using the same nozzle instead of tossing it when it's not printing properly. Once it happens, be prepared to cold pull if you switch rapidly between multiple kinds of filaments (PLA -> PETG -> ASA -> PETG -> ASA....) and your filament load/unload process doesn't try to grab and pull the leftover gunk in the nozzle. (Extrudes slightly before cooling the nozzle and then unloading). You'll know it's happening when you need to poke a thin wire in to open the nozzle. After a few times over a month or two, eventually you'll get to the point where that doesn't clear the opening anymore and a more serious solution is needed.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Is it more prone to clogging than other nozzles, or is it just it can clog like any other nozzle can?

[@tasa4904]

@@arthurmoore9488 It's probably about the same. Maybe a little more frequent since a diamond nozzle isn't going to wear like a bronze one so you can trust the orifice to remain at the specified diameter when the bronze ones start tearing itself open from the heat and pressure. The problem is that this is the kind of nozzle that you don't just throw away, so the extended use time means that it WILL clog eventually.

[@Billybobble1]

I'm a hobbyist, and in the last two years, a very slack one. I understand you (Lost in Tech) have only been into 3D printing maybe a little longer than myself, i.e. not that long relatively speaking. My question is, how are you so good at getting into these technical aspects? I enjoy your playful approach, but I also feel you know a lot more than you let on, despite being a relative newcomer. Would it be to rude to ask, what are your credentials? Do you have a Phd in engineering or similar? What is your technical knowhow to guide you on these exploratory paths? Or are you just a smart mofo that found their lane? Genuinely curious. Thanks.

[@Billybobble1]

I only ask this because I really do appreciate your content, this should be a way bigger channel x

[@LostInTech3D]

I think it's more about just being obsessively curious about things I'm interested in. No engineering qualifications unfortunately!

[@TechieSewing]

He's too modest to tell you, but it's 'just a smart mofo' option ;)

[@ZergRadio]

Diamonds Are Forever by Shirley Bassey

[@Azmodon]

I love that one of my first jobs out of college was as the head of R&D for a PCD / CBN cutting tool manufacturer, and still have my first non-school related 3D animation of our machines reshaping the round tools loaded into the boring bar at 2:28 lol. All of our tools (including making holes) were done with Wire-EDM before final shaping with abrasives. If they used a laser, given how diffraction, focal lengths, discharge from the hole as it's being bored causing side venting... I'd be more impressed that they could use a laser at all, but would question why they wouldn't just drill a starter hole, feed in the wire, wait 2 minutes, and have a perfectly contoured (slightly eroded looking) hole. - after having looked at the geometry of the tapered hole, this looks like erosion edm. Graphite negatives are used as electrodes rather than a wire, they're easy to produce and provide extreme dimensional accuracy. I think Titans of CNC have a video or two showing their monster of a machine off, but they can be as small as a carry on (which line up with the video shown of the fab shop, they're not making 2 different tapers meet a shelf at an orifice with a laser, let alone one that small). My experience was with 2 inch pucks though, not the 3/4" coins they make.

[@umbratherios5614]

This thing looks amazing... but calling it a nozzle that "lasts forever" (as many people do) is a bit of a false point. the tip will last forever, sure... but the interior MUCH softer brass will get worn away over time, especially when printing CF. it'll last longer than regular brass nozzles... that's about it. you will have AMAZING prints... and then suddenly a catastrophic failure as the tip literally just falls out, or the wall behind the diamond tip just... blasts through as it gets worn thinner and thinner... like those ruby and sapphire tip nozzles. the brass behind the gem tips just get... worn away... Oh, and also, a lot higher risk when doing cold-pulls. I... really don't think they are all that worth it. Because of the brass "body" I physically cannot see them lasting as long as people advertise them to last. atleast when printing abrasives.

[@FlyingPeteNZ]

Nice Sarracenias... Anyway apart from the insanly high flow rates, I don't see the point of these forever nozzles. I started with a E3D V6 based printer many years back, had several nozzles in that, none of any of the fancy material (i.e. not brass) nozzles ever wore out before I moved to a E3D Revo, which recently got jammed up and I wrecked my fancy Obxidian nozzle and heater trying to seperate them, used this as an excuse to get a Bambu A1 which uses yet another nozzle type. I guess what I am saying is tech changes so quickly they don't get a chance to wear out. Check in again with me in around three years time and I will probably be using something else entirely.

[@NoMercyFtw]

When printing manufacturers keep changing the nozzle types the looks, the geometry, how long they are, what thread they have, whether they have threads or not, buying an expensive nozzle to maybe sell that printer and change manufacturers 2 years later is bonkers, when a hardened nozzle will probably last you that two years if not longer depending on how much you print...........

[@freedomofmotion]

I got a nice 51mms³ out of my slightly modified Kobra 2 max hot end recently out of a 0.6mm nozzle. I'd say barely though as I could hear the extruder missing steps but 49/50 out of such a cheap printer and such a cheap mod is super cool.

[@kennethdavis1628]

Great video. MicroSwiss has an upgrade part for Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus that uses DiamondBack nozzles.

[@corrupted1850]

You ever get 74mm^2/s flow with a 0.5mm nozzle well that's what the VZGoliath hotend can do might be because the meltzone is like 50mm's long

[@alexanderdaum8053]

Regarding the diamond soldering iron: Does molten solder stick (slightly) to PCD? In a soldering iron, you want the solder to be able to wet the tip, as that results in increased thermal conductivity, it acts like thermal compound between the iron and your part. (Note, that I'm not saying you should melt all the solder on your iron, just that a little molten solder on the tip will increase thermal transfer to the joint, so you can melt the solder on the joint faster).

[@mvadu]

9:08 it doesn't exists because solder won't stick to diamond tip! You kind of need that to actually solder parts. If it's just applying heat then it might work.

[@adamsvette]

They may not have diamond filled filament, but there is carbon fiber filament. And that's probably at least equally as tough as diamond

[@WaschyNumber1]

How can they make almost 69000 bar and keep the prossure under control for artificial diamond making 🤔

[@kailuasurfing]

Awesome technology, definitely a use case. The downside is it can still clog, no fault of the nozzle design. It is really convenient to toss a dirt cheap nozzle and move on. Pros and cons.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I'd definitely like to get some of these some day, butt like you said, it's much more worth it if ur printing constantly, so I'm holding off for now; they'll always be on my mind (heh, mind) tho

[@AndroidA258]

till you get a clog and soften the blass by torching it trying to get the clog out and ruin the nozzle, tungsten carbide nozzle all the way

[@Mark.Question]

🤔 hey m8, i think something went wrong at your hardness-chart @2:20 🤔

[@NiksSofa]

How corosion resitant is diamond? that might be a reason not to use diamond soldering tips.

[@WaffleStaffel]

I'm dying to get my hands on one of those diamond discs! I'll buy it from you once you get bored with it. Unless you're like me, and you tend to accumulate toys and never let them go.

[@LostInTech3D]

I am, and I do 😂

[@WaffleStaffel]

@@LostInTech3D 😞I wish I could find one to buy, but searching is futile given the available terms. I have a 1"x3"x1/4" piece of pyrolytic graphite, ready to be split into knives, but I want actually use the diamond for heat distribution on an electronic component.

[@arthurmoore9488]

@@WaffleStaffel Just contact the company. It's probably not cheap, but they'll certainly sell it to you. Heck, I think this is the only product they sell directly to consumers. Which is a pity, because I want a 1/8in sandblasting nozzle made of the stuff.

[@WaffleStaffel]

@@arthurmoore9488 Good idea, it's worth a shot. I guess since a heat pipe has 3x-45X more thermal conductivity, diamond is better off as a novelty than a practical component cooling material.

[@erikkalmar4965]

Maybe surface ironing with diamond nosles is why also worth it to buy one of this

[@3D_Printing]

Copper is too soft but a good heat transfer option compared to expense

[@charlesurrea1451]

Imagine if you really wanted to prove it? you could make a system that would perpetually use the same material over and over. If you put the head up high enough, you had the feed rate proper it would cool in air and then could be taken up to start all over again

[@LostInTech3D]

you'd have to call that machine "Sisyphus"

[@KP-ty9yl]

Is glass filled TPU actually a thing :o

[@LostInTech3D]

I made a video about it 😁

[@KP-ty9yl]

@@LostInTech3D cool! I wish there were more wacky, exotic filaments like that around

[@LostChaos1313]

55 holy f@&$, as a user of a ruby nozzle, I need to upgrade.

[@philipnel8471]

CPU coolers using Diamond core WHEN?

[@3D_Printing]

When making it make it to the shape wanted

[@JohnDoe-mg7ht]

As you allude to, tungsten nozzles have both excellent abrasion resistance and excellent thermal conductivity. Suggestion is to get ones that are solid tungsten rather than just a tungsten tip. Not only are they significantly cheaper (about $50) vs. diamond nozzles but some suggest they are less likely to chip or break. Plus the whole body is tungsten so you may overal get better thermal conductivity than just a diamond tip (after all the melting all occurs long before the tip)

[@ares395]

Would be interesting to see vs tests of these 2. I wonder how smooth the bore is in the pure tungsten nozzles.

[@ThorstenWirth]

Isn't ruby already good enough?

[@Altirix_]

sadly all multipart nozzles are flawed, they will eventually break apart. or they leak from the seal. full body tungsten carbide (oston, bozzle, deez) is significantly cheaper and while on paper isnt as good as diamond, id go with them anytime. remember theres no real benefit to use harder nozzles unless you are actually printing with abrasives. theres also the Gammamaster that ive seen quite a few people recommend but ive not used it, and the warranty excludes glow in the dark filamen.t the CHT is still the best if you aint using abrasives

[@MrJofArnold]

Plus with WC nozzle you can blowtorch you clogged carbon fibres out without worrying too much.

[@philippeholthuizen]

Hahahhaaa, love this video and its many many side comments. So just to be clear, the 1mm nozzle has superhigh flow, compared to other nozzles? How much higher?

[@LostInTech3D]

future video :) but as things stand, "a surprising amount".

[@smokeduv]

I have mixed thoughts on the conductivity stuff. The fact that it’s the most conductive sounds very relevant to 3D printing, but it just means that the behavior would be different but not strictly better. It will get up to temperature a lot faster than any other tip, but it will also get cold easily with the fan or the bed or the already printed plastic, so this “might” lead to a bit of inconsistency while a relatively poor conductor (not exactly an insulator) will take time to heat but it will also retain that heat quite well, so the temperature won’t change a single bit, so it might not need a powerful and very fast heating element or not as big of a heating block, but well, diamond is also very hard and will last a very long time, so it’s still better than anything just because of this

[@arthurmoore9488]

The wear resistance seems to be the major selling point. Especially when working with engineering plastics which are highly abrasive. The higher conductivity is good, but only if you have a good heater and thermocouple right next to it. Along with good control software. The problem with large thermal mass is the control system might not detect a problem until it's too late. A relevant comparison is soldering irons. The cheaper ones have a heater cartridge, a separate thermocouple, and a changeable tip which slides on top. The more expensive ones have all three integrated. The "tips" are a solid piece with at least three conductors. V+, Gnd, and sense. They have less thermal mass, so heat up and cool down quickly, but the controller can maintain temperature better. That's important as soldering large parts wicks all the heat out of a regular iron, and it takes too long to catch up.

[@3D_Printing]

6:38 Mr. Bond, James Bond 007

[@rel4518]

Did i see that text on screen right? (55mm^3/S) as in 55mm cubed?

[@LostInTech3D]

Yes!

[@nosenseofhumor1]

Wow impressive flow rate- it just occurred to me that if you get the nozzle size close to the filament diameter you really don’t really need the filament to melt all through way through… hmmm

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah

[@sprinteroz2239]

mine is a ruby 9 on hardness scale

[@iopfarmer]

Diamond filled ABS! OMG this needs to be a thing! Make custom grinding wheels with is 😅

[@arthurmoore9488]

But would that actually work, and is it worth it vs just ordering one from a custom manufacturer? Seriously, I know Tennessee Abrasives does custom orders for not too much.

[@JojoJoget]

What advantage does this have over tungsten carbide? I don’t think 3d filaments have additives that are that hard that would warrant a pcd bit

[@username9774]

tungsten filled petg prusa sells would be bad ish for tungsten nozzles

[@Hilmi12]

You need to test it with PETG and especially with ironing top layer

[@cameronheinricks8571]

Nothing sticks to it but if you get a bigger blob started it will stick to the brass portion above the diamond tip

[@Hilmi12]

@@cameronheinricks8571 I've been debating getting one as I print lots of CF PETG for products I sell. PETG blobs have messed more than a few prints for me

[@sakkeply]

I'm interested in tungsten carbide nozzles and their lifetime. And other thermal conduct properties. I have 3 different sizes of Phaetus' nozzles made out of TC and for now, I haven't changed the nozzle. Only hotend. It's been great but I recommend filming those with macrolenses. Rough surfaces but job well done.

[@ibot9828]

Unfortunately this definitely not a "forever nozzle" the brass will be damaged over time. By filled filaments, nozzle cleaning etc. A full tungsten nozzle will last way longer and may be the real "forever nozzle". If you really want a diamond nozzle, I would recommend the Trianglelab DLC copper one. At least more wear resistent than bradd.

[@ericolofsson]

How much of the nozzle are Polycrystalline Diamond? It just says diamod tip the site. The inside walls of the nozzle would still wear and probably most of the thermal transfer are down with the copper parts?

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Love your videos. Curious...are you ever going to make a cameo in one of your videos?

[@LostInTech3D]

I figure it'll have to happen at some point but....at the moment I don't even have room in the studio unless I get right up in the camera and nobody needs that lol