The Hardest 3D Printer Nozzles In The Universe: DiamondBack.

[@PraxZimmerman]

The fuzzy inside and outside is because they're cut with a laser. Carbon might have a high boiling point sure but dump 100KW of laser power in a single point and you'll make anything disintegrate. You can use diamond lapping compound to smooth it out if you want, but it's a lot of process time (and consumes a lot of diamond in and of itself (fun fact, the industrial diamond factory I did work for a while back was their own largest customer. 60% of the diamonds they produced went right into lapping compound and grinding wheels so they could cut their own diamond parts)).

[@LostInTech3D]

lasers, of course!

[@dekutree64]

Yeah, laser was my first thought on how to cut them. You don't even need that much power. Diamond isn't heat resistant like other forms of carbon, it will start to burn into graphite at 700C if it's not pressurized.

[@kimmotoivanen]

"Sharks with frickin' DiamondBack nozzles attached to their heads" (sorry 😅)

[@SilvaDreams]

Considering these are synthetic diamonds I might also guess that they are formed in this shape which might also be why they are smooth but still slightly fuzzy.

[@EkiToji]

@@dekutree64 That's because diamond is only metastable at atmospheric pressure. It really wants to be graphite but thankfully for us there's a fairly substantial kinetic barrier that prevents the atoms from spontaneously rearranging.

[@beez1598]

I have one of these I purchased inebriated about 3 years ago. 4,000 some odd hours later, across 3 machines. Printing every filament. Zero issues. None. It’s a fantastic piece of kit.

[@LostInTech3D]

best drunk purchase ever

[@beez1598]

@@LostInTech3D it treated me much better than the 5 pound gummy bear!

[@lawrencenenninger1607]

I put a .6 and a .4 on my printers and haven't given a thought to nozzle tips since!

[@shogoonn]

That thing with the grinding wheel at 11:51 is 100% legitimate and real-time. I've once did more or less the same thing. Had to dress a grinding wheel on a dremel. Just touched the spinny thing with a diamond dresser and got a huge groove. Did the job, and the dresser was unfazed, not even a slightest trace of cutting through alumina. The sensation was unreal, I'm used to feeling the grinding wheel removing material and being hard in general, but a diamond cuts through it like it was made of paper.

[@mrnukeduster]

I adopted them early on. The .6mm has around 7500 hours on it, printing almost exclusively PA6-CF. Still prints like new. The .4mm clogged around 2000 hours, and as I learned the hard way, do not try to use a torch to melt out the jammed filament. Good brand, nice people behind the design; I talked to them a few times.

[@ares395]

Now I wanna see closeups on the nozzle after getting blasted with a torch

[@cameronheinricks8571]

As an employee and 3d printer hobbyist they made these for our own 3d designs for cases and custom organization on the production floor of drill bits being made, tool holders etc, when hobby 3d Printing took off that's when they came up with the idea to ramp up production of the nozzles and sell them. I have been printing with the same nozzle for 2.5 years now and its still clean and perfect, thermal properties are much better too that helps with layer adhesion among other things. The heated presses used for this manufacturing process are mind boggling and incredibly dangerous.

[@TouchofDepth]

awesome, is it not recommended to use this type of nozzle with a glass bed?

[@aronseptianto8142]

@@TouchofDepth i suppose just never ever jog it too close to the bed

[@gsdtdeaux7]

@@TouchofDepthonly if you plan on crashing it into the bed. But also, who still uses glass beds? To each is own but thats just old tech. Get a good reputable brand smooth pei and put that glass in the dumpster lol

[@lawabidingcitizen5153]

@@gsdtdeaux7 Glass bedsare cheap and you can replace them with dollar store supplies I guess

[@cameronheinricks8571]

@@TouchofDepth I use it with my glass bed on my CR 10 V3 just have to be sure you set Z offset right and do not crash into the bed, any nozzle can break a glass bed this way

[@Jynxx_13]

The glare on the nozzle from the lights @4:16 really shows how smooth the tip is.

[@Gitmo314]

Thank you for reminding me of these nozzles since Zack's video. I wanted one so bad since that video released but none would fit into my Bambu X1C, just googled it and they now sell one for my X1C at E3D's website. I paid $100 for it instantly. Lost in Tech, you have done me a great service thank you, may we both drown in elite printing filaments.

[@LostInTech3D]

Glad to help, yeah those bambu ones are brand new, you'll be one of the first owners!

[@awkwardsaxon9418]

I watched the outro so I won't leave an angry comment about you destroying a perfectly fine phone screen

[@LostInTech3D]

the cover was also already cracked :)

[@CheezeCurdler]

I think your hardness chart was mixed up with the conductivity chart

[@pusnirizda5481]

Thermal conductivity*

[@hippiemcfake6364]

2:16 - Wait, copper is harder than steel and tungsten carbide?? :O

[@uhu4677]

The whole diagramm is totally messed up.

[@soundspark]

The footage of the nozzle destroying the grinding wheel; diamonds are actually used to dress grinding wheels in industry. When preparing a surface grinder you put a diamond tipped dressing tool on the table and run the diamond across the wheel to make it run true and remove dull/contaminated grit.

[@TDOBrandano]

There are actually materials harder than diamond, though they are not usually naturally occurring. Lonsdaelite is one and can be found along with diamonds in some meteorites. Others are carbon buckyballs or nanorods, and graphene. But these last, while harder, can only be synthesized artificially, and as far as I know don't create solid compact structures.

[@nathan-shearer]

I have many of the Diamondback nozzles, and they are absolutely the best nozzles. They are worth it!

[@zachary3777]

Do they make one with a cht style high flow insert?

[@nathan-shearer]

@@zachary3777 As of 2024-09-23 I don't think that they do make one with the CHT 3-way flow splitter inside the nozzle.

[@nilz__]

Diamondback nozzles are available for many custom printers (I counted 10 different interfaces). They even have them for Bambu printers for example.

[@LostInTech3D]

who has them for bambu printers??

[@parkerbradshaw4122]

​@@LostInTech3D E3D does, can also be seen on the diamondback website

[@username9774]

@@LostInTech3D revo

[@Trevellian]

@@LostInTech3D Believe it's only possible when using the BIQU Panda. It would be great if there were a fully assembled Diamondback Bambu hotend (high flow), like there is for E3D's ObXidian.

[@nilz__]

@@LostInTech3D E3D sells them, but they seem to all be out of stock.

[@maxwell_edison]

"Diamonds! These are real! You probably don't believe me-" Huh? Is there still really people out there who think diamonds are expensive or uncommon? lol

[@eslmatt811]

My son was surprised the first time he saw my diamond tile blade. I explained that pretty diamonds are expensive when you buy them, cheap when you sell them. Other diamonds are common in cutting tools.

[@SilvaDreams]

Yup plenty of people think any diamond is expensive. I've had many people shocked when I told them they could buy like 10 pounds of diamonds for less than 100$ But this diamond is synthetic and formed which is why it's so smooth and shows no cut lines.

[@deaultusername]

cody's lab recovered diamonds from street dust where constructors are cutting

[@Noneofyourbusiness2000]

When I proposed to my wife, 16 years ago, affordable man made diamonds of that size and quality didn't exist or weren't accessible. Recently I was looking at diamond rings to help my friend price one out. Not even taking inflation into account, today I could buy a setup using man made diamonds with the equivalent size and quality for about the quarter of what I paid over 16 years ago for my wife's engagement ring. Keep in mind jewelers can't even distinguish between real and man made diamonds today. While diamonds were never a rare resource, their availability was rare for a very long time due to market manipulation. Now that the Chinese can make high quality diamonds, market manipulation is impossible. It will still take a generation of affordable diamonds being available for the idea that diamonds aren't expensive or uncommon to be understood by the general public.

[@Dramure]

I would totally buy that soldiering iron and hot knife add to that too...

[@See-essEll]

I was given a couple for testing and had issues printing polycarbonate with it it actually seemed to stick to it more than with the Slice Engineering Vanadium nozzle I had been printing PC with beforehand. Bridging also seemed to change, as calculations in slicers seem to take into account the filament sticking to the nozzle as it's pulled. With the Diamondback nozzle, it was slipping off instead of getting stretched. Big thing is, you will need to change your temp settings (at least at the flow rates I was using). I was printing PLA at 180 and ABS at 205 with it.

[@Azmodon]

I love that one of my first jobs out of college was as the head of R&D for a PCD / CBN cutting tool manufacturer, and still have my first non-school related 3D animation of our machines reshaping the round tools loaded into the boring bar at 2:28 lol. All of our tools (including making holes) were done with Wire-EDM before final shaping with abrasives. If they used a laser, given how diffraction, focal lengths, discharge from the hole as it's being bored causing side venting... I'd be more impressed that they could use a laser at all, but would question why they wouldn't just drill a starter hole, feed in the wire, wait 2 minutes, and have a perfectly contoured (slightly eroded looking) hole. - after having looked at the geometry of the tapered hole, this looks like erosion edm. Graphite negatives are used as electrodes rather than a wire, they're easy to produce and provide extreme dimensional accuracy. I think Titans of CNC have a video or two showing their monster of a machine off, but they can be as small as a carry on (which line up with the video shown of the fab shop, they're not making 2 different tapers meet a shelf at an orifice with a laser, let alone one that small). My experience was with 2 inch pucks though, not the 3/4" coins they make.

[@jim5148]

One user completely broke the diamond tip by using pliers to install and remove the nozzle, and presumably slipped off the flats down onto the diamond. Using pliers is not a good idea, but the diamond tip is not indestructible.

[@vientosnomadas655]

i have one of these on my K2 Max and i love it, it prints fantastic and allows me to print CF HTPLA for automotive parts. i have noticed the quality and consistency of my prints is very good as well. well worth the $100 IMO

[@DrSwolemeister]

wow, just earlier today i saw your 2nd video and was thinking "damn i wonder when part 3 comes out" good looks brother

[@coreyfro]

There has been a diamond filled filament! It actually wants to embrace it all, it was more lubricious. That's another advantage of the diamond nozzles, the surface is incredibly slick so you have very little chance of the filament sticking. The diamond filled filaments also took advantage of the heat conductivity properties of diamond as it was advertised as a high-flow pla. I think that gimmick has disappeared off of the interwebs though

[@BasedF-15Pilot]

I have been using a diamondback in my v400 for a year now. It's amazing.

[@kailuasurfing]

Awesome technology, definitely a use case. The downside is it can still clog, no fault of the nozzle design. It is really convenient to toss a dirt cheap nozzle and move on. Pros and cons.

[@Thisdudechannel]

I love my diamondback nozzle. Can you do a macro shot from threaded side of the nozzle to see what the diamond looks like?

[@RegularOldDan]

Um, your idea of a diamond-tipped soldering iron sounds fantastic.

[@TheElectronicDilettante]

What would be great to see is some of your excellent close up shots of the diamondback nozzle after a large volume of highly abrasive filaments.

[@dennisolsson3119]

It would be interesting to see how a filament unloading/change is affected. It looks like there is a lip on the inside where the diamond is seated and where plastic can get stuck and be mixed in after change. Same with "lesser" nozzles having rough insides

[@Kumquat_Lord]

As nice as they are, I prefer a solid carbide nozzle for one reason- the body of the diamondback is brass, and that part can still wear over time.

[@marcusbuschbeck1121]

I own a Gühring Dianoz as V6 Nozzle. But this is very expensive. So i'm impressed of the price for this Nozzle here.

[@Janovich]

The reason I don't buy these is because Im worried they'll unrecoverably clog. Rather just buy cheap ones and throw them out whenever I have a clog every now and then.

[@TrollFaceTheMan]

Poly means many or multiple. A poly crystalline structure means it isn't a solid crystal structure. It has different sub crystals with their own orientations and directions to them. Vs a mono crystalline solid that everything is lined up the same. So kinda like the difference of having a solid block of concrete vs one that you made with fresh concrete but also broken bits of older concrete too. The solid block of concrete is going to form a solid structure that can be subseptable to sheering along structure lines. Whereas the concrete with the old concrete mixed in will have a non solid (Uniform) structure through it becuase of the old concrete chucks having different directions of alignment and such. This helps eliminate fault/sheer lines that a non poly crystalline structure would have. (And is why adding aggregate to concrete or grog to pottery makes it much stronger too.) Poly crystals CAN be stronger in all directions over Crystalline structures. However full Crystalline structures CAN be much stronger in directions of strength depending on the crystals structure. Also monocrystals tend to be more thermally and electrically conductive over poly crystals as the changing directions of crystals causes resitance. That is a big reason why Mono solar panels are a lot better at producing power than poly. But yes in a way Poly crystals are like crystals inside crystals. Vs mono crystals which is just one big crystal.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Pros and cons, as always. Personally, not accidentally breaking the stupidly expensive part because I was a bit rough on it is worth those cons.

[@TrollFaceTheMan]

If you are doing a lot of macro shots you might want to look into focus merging to give you a much better DOF on stuff. It can be difficult to see things when the plane of focus is maybe only a mm.

[@username9774]

Can you next do a test of CHT nozzles (also the 2$ aliexpress ones) when it comes to purging in an MMU/AMS? in my experience there is a lot more colorbleed when changing color depending on the nozzle, but I can't really measure that. Can you please

[@LostInTech3D]

Good idea

[@igiannakas]

Indeed you’re right. I’ve had to bump up my flush volumes in both my Voron and Bambu since equipping them with a cht nozzle. Especially black to white.

[@kennethdavis1628]

Great video. MicroSwiss has an upgrade part for Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus that uses DiamondBack nozzles.

[@WaffleStaffel]

I'm dying to get my hands on one of those diamond discs! I'll buy it from you once you get bored with it. Unless you're like me, and you tend to accumulate toys and never let them go.

[@LostInTech3D]

I am, and I do 😂

[@WaffleStaffel]

@@LostInTech3D 😞I wish I could find one to buy, but searching is futile given the available terms. I have a 1"x3"x1/4" piece of pyrolytic graphite, ready to be split into knives, but I want actually use the diamond for heat distribution on an electronic component.

[@arthurmoore9488]

@@WaffleStaffel Just contact the company. It's probably not cheap, but they'll certainly sell it to you. Heck, I think this is the only product they sell directly to consumers. Which is a pity, because I want a 1/8in sandblasting nozzle made of the stuff.

[@WaffleStaffel]

@@arthurmoore9488 Good idea, it's worth a shot. I guess since a heat pipe has 3x-45X more thermal conductivity, diamond is better off as a novelty than a practical component cooling material.

[@stratos2]

I would love to have a diamondback nozzle that has the new internal structure which splits the extrusion stream into three with drilling or a copper insert

[@reyd8]

I've been using Diamondback nozzels since they became available for my hotend. I recently tried CHT nozzles, which is what you are referring to, and to be honest, I still got better performance out of my diamondbacks.

[@tasa4904]

As a sidenote, these nozzles can clog. They're not cheap so you're likely going to keep using the same nozzle instead of tossing it when it's not printing properly. Once it happens, be prepared to cold pull if you switch rapidly between multiple kinds of filaments (PLA -> PETG -> ASA -> PETG -> ASA....) and your filament load/unload process doesn't try to grab and pull the leftover gunk in the nozzle. (Extrudes slightly before cooling the nozzle and then unloading). You'll know it's happening when you need to poke a thin wire in to open the nozzle. After a few times over a month or two, eventually you'll get to the point where that doesn't clear the opening anymore and a more serious solution is needed.

[@arthurmoore9488]

Is it more prone to clogging than other nozzles, or is it just it can clog like any other nozzle can?

[@tasa4904]

@@arthurmoore9488 It's probably about the same. Maybe a little more frequent since a diamond nozzle isn't going to wear like a bronze one so you can trust the orifice to remain at the specified diameter when the bronze ones start tearing itself open from the heat and pressure. The problem is that this is the kind of nozzle that you don't just throw away, so the extended use time means that it WILL clog eventually.

[@TechieSewing]

There is a lot of food for thought in that linked article, but it's a bit hard to chew and digest. Might contain diamonds ;) I used to leave the outer wall with 0.4mm while all the other lines tend to be 0.6mm or more, but that nozzle is some 18 months now, I'd better use wider lines with it.

[@TheAdeptGuitarist]

I am curious if the process heats to 1400⁰C why the suggested max temp is 300⁰C everywhere I've looked. Looking specifically for an all arounder nozzle for mainly enclosed technical filaments. The new Polymaker PPS-CF sports a melt temp of around 340⁰C and the YZ-Polymer PPS (CF lackthereof) around the same melt temp.

[@LostInTech3D]

not sure, could be the brass I guess.

[@thomasnixon4440]

If the diamond part is shrink-fit (which seems reasonable), it could become loose at high temperatures? It looks like the theemal expansuon coefficient of PCD is a lot lower than that of brass.

[@cameronheinricks8571]

its the Brass around the tip that is the limiting factor.

[@somhunt5446]

Brass could be the limiting factor, however Tungsten or hardened steel insert variants do not have the same limitation imposed.

[@JohnDoe-mg7ht]

As you allude to, tungsten nozzles have both excellent abrasion resistance and excellent thermal conductivity. Suggestion is to get ones that are solid tungsten rather than just a tungsten tip. Not only are they significantly cheaper (about $50) vs. diamond nozzles but some suggest they are less likely to chip or break. Plus the whole body is tungsten so you may overal get better thermal conductivity than just a diamond tip (after all the melting all occurs long before the tip)

[@ares395]

Would be interesting to see vs tests of these 2. I wonder how smooth the bore is in the pure tungsten nozzles.

[@EclecticLensYT]

Great video! Looking forward to the update! I too wondered why they haven't come out with a diamondback soldering iron tip! I think the benefits would be worth the price 👍

[@Slydog43UTube]

I think your hardness scale at 2:19 seems off, Copper is harder than ruby????

[@roderik1990]

Was probably meant to be a thermal conductivity scale instead.

[@Qwarzz]

@@roderik1990 That would make sense

[@lonewolfsstuck]

I have a tungsten Carbide nozzle from Dawnblade on my V2 neo and have 0 issue with it and love it, have printed many abrasive things like CFPETG and glow in the dark pla. 0 issues. Only complaint is that there isnt a V6 version so i can use on my other printer.

[@michaeleitel7186]

Sorry to say, but I can not confirm a better flow rate with a revo version. I have a 0.6 and the flow rate is only on par with a normal brass nozzle. I wanted for my R2. 4 a 'never to bother anymore' solution. Wishful thinking. 😢

[@stefanguiton]

Great videos as always!

[@LostInTech3D]

Thanks! :)

[@username9774]

A whole tungsten carbide nozzle like Oston sells makes more sense in my opinion, it won't crack when you hit the bed too much and is only 43$ on aliexpress

[@LostInTech3D]

I have the phaetus tungsten carbide waiting to do something with :)

[@username9774]

@@LostInTech3D the pheatus one is not completly tungsten and way worse

[@adeo]

​@@LostInTech3D As other have said, the phaetus WC and SiC nozzles use press fit inserts, and those are not good for a multitude of reasons. The best thing is a full WC (tungsten carbide) nozzle, like the bozzle/oston/undertaker/nanoflow/panzarnozzle

[@Hallo132HalloMiau32]

@@LostInTech3D I heard on the voron discord that many people had problems with the pheatus one since it is not a whole tungsten nozzle, just a insert

[@katherinehackworth]

​@@adeowungsten carbide

[@AndrewAHayes]

Hardened steel nozzles seem to last me forever, I have had them on my Ender 5 Plus machines for over 3 years and haven't worn yet. It would cost me a small fortune to get a full set of Diamond back nozzles and just for one printer!

[@TheBaseUK]

I wonder with these nozzles, its just the very tip that has the diamond. So wouldnt the actual brass body wear out from abrasive materials being pushed through it? Scalloping out the inside walls of the brass? Id assume the pressure build up in the nozzle would be enough to cause some wear over time?

[@LostInTech3D]

Not really, but explaining why is quite hard and I'd probably get it wrong. The tip always wears disproportionately too as it's from being dragged over the printed surface

[@adamsvette]

They may not have diamond filled filament, but there is carbon fiber filament. And that's probably at least equally as tough as diamond

[@dekutree64]

12:08 Makes it seem kind of stupid to ever use the exact nominal diameter of the nozzle. I've been using the same 0.4mm for years. Next time I have something to print I'll try setting it to 0.45mm or 0.5mm and see if there's any difference in print quality.

[@LostInTech3D]

Prusaslicer uses .45 for a .4 nozzle on most printer profiles, they kinda already are ahead of the game on this one 😁

[@ThePrimaFacie]

04:16 this is the shot when talking about Polycrystalline structure (I think, not an expert) since it reminds me of a Solar Cell, somewhat. Since there is a polished flat face you can "see into" the structure(s). Maybe some different spectrum of light and a few polarizing filters could make it pop? IDK if it is a thing it really just seems like it could be. Either way I really like this shot and then again at 04:33.

[@justinchamberlin4195]

Metallurgist here - polishing surfaces and then looking at them under high magnification absolutely is a thing to look at the crystalline structure at the micro scale. While there are certainly applications where inspecting samples in the as-polished state is useful (looking for inclusions in steel and evaluating graphite structures in cast iron are just two examples), it's usually more helpful to use a process called etching to better reveal the various grains (crystals) and the boundaries between them. This process got its name from the most common method of revealing the grain structure - applying acid to the sample, which preferentially dissolves some grains more quickly than others depending on their orientation to the surface. There are other methods that can be material- and sample-specific, including "optical etching" by way of polarized or oblique lighting techniques. I'd love to be able to comment specifically on diamond, but my best reference book for ceramography (something I haven't even accidentally done once since 2011) is at my desk at work while I'm off all week for our annual plant shutdown. It's not impossible that something in the grain structure could be revealed in the as-polished condition under polarized light, especially if impurities collect at the grain boundaries, but a tint etch, heat etch, chemical, or electrolytic etch may be necessary to really make it pop. And it's highly likely that higher magnifications would be needed - most macro imaging equipment tops out in the 50-80x magnification range, whereas my inverted microscope at work has objectives at 50x, 100x, 200x, 500x, and 1000x and some specialized models can go well past 2000x, into "poor man's electron microscope" territory. And now I'd love to see someone put a Diamondback nozzle into an electron microscope to see what can be seen at extremely high mag, and to run a spectral map via EDS to look for impurities and how they may be distributed.

[@ThePrimaFacie]

@@justinchamberlin4195 SHHHHH with this talk hes going to need to buy more gear. Im am impressed at the quality of the shots he has in this vid tho. Maybe "Breaking Taps" could throw some electrons at it? IDK Yeah to see the structure is cool like a carbon opal type conglomerate but without a matrix? Maybe Im just mixing up stuff and this can be explained easily differently. like its just rough diamonds pressed to be a bigger one 😅. Either way that tech/process is really cool.

[@Amybnuy]

how do you take these macro shots? I have a soldering camera but the quality sucks and the focal distance is so low, I can only see a small portion in focus at once. tbh tho it doesn't stop the other parts from wearing.

[@LostInTech3D]

The first nozzle episode is where I go into how I do it, much to peoples' annoyance apparently :)

[@freedomofmotion]

I got a nice 51mms³ out of my slightly modified Kobra 2 max hot end recently out of a 0.6mm nozzle. I'd say barely though as I could hear the extruder missing steps but 49/50 out of such a cheap printer and such a cheap mod is super cool.

[@mvadu]

9:08 it doesn't exists because solder won't stick to diamond tip! You kind of need that to actually solder parts. If it's just applying heat then it might work.

[@smokeduv]

I have mixed thoughts on the conductivity stuff. The fact that it’s the most conductive sounds very relevant to 3D printing, but it just means that the behavior would be different but not strictly better. It will get up to temperature a lot faster than any other tip, but it will also get cold easily with the fan or the bed or the already printed plastic, so this “might” lead to a bit of inconsistency while a relatively poor conductor (not exactly an insulator) will take time to heat but it will also retain that heat quite well, so the temperature won’t change a single bit, so it might not need a powerful and very fast heating element or not as big of a heating block, but well, diamond is also very hard and will last a very long time, so it’s still better than anything just because of this

[@arthurmoore9488]

The wear resistance seems to be the major selling point. Especially when working with engineering plastics which are highly abrasive. The higher conductivity is good, but only if you have a good heater and thermocouple right next to it. Along with good control software. The problem with large thermal mass is the control system might not detect a problem until it's too late. A relevant comparison is soldering irons. The cheaper ones have a heater cartridge, a separate thermocouple, and a changeable tip which slides on top. The more expensive ones have all three integrated. The "tips" are a solid piece with at least three conductors. V+, Gnd, and sense. They have less thermal mass, so heat up and cool down quickly, but the controller can maintain temperature better. That's important as soldering large parts wicks all the heat out of a regular iron, and it takes too long to catch up.

[@MrRitzyVlogs]

Where did you get the discs of diamond and other materials for the ice test?

[@LostInTech3D]

DiamondBack provided them 😁

[@ancomscicomm]

I think you got the hardness graph at 2:20 wrong - everything after PCD is backwards, because there's no way copper has a tensile strength of 24.5 GPa

[@timha4102]

Not quite. Tungsten carbide is harder than steel.

[@imthedentist]

You should change your name to lost in nozzles at this point

[@bkm83442]

Polycrystalline just means that it is not all one single crystal, but a whole bunch of smaller crystals that grew into each other.

[@ZergRadio]

Diamonds Are Forever by Shirley Bassey

[@motopimp2006]

I haven't watched this video yet. I would just like to say that I exclusively print with carbon/nylon. I make production parts for various industries. I cant speak highly enough about these nozzles. When every orint counts, any variable you can remove as a potential problem, the more time and money you will save.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I'd definitely like to get some of these some day, butt like you said, it's much more worth it if ur printing constantly, so I'm holding off for now; they'll always be on my mind (heh, mind) tho

[@sakkeply]

I'm interested in tungsten carbide nozzles and their lifetime. And other thermal conduct properties. I have 3 different sizes of Phaetus' nozzles made out of TC and for now, I haven't changed the nozzle. Only hotend. It's been great but I recommend filming those with macrolenses. Rough surfaces but job well done.

[@Shannon-Smith]

Interesting. I wonder how a diamond heatsync would go on a CPU???

[@LostInTech3D]

I'd say yes

[@Wassermelonenbaum]

Wooaaa wait a second! You didnt print the official "Banana For Scale"??????

[@o0Adx0o]

What if the diamond tip nozzel is paired with CHT...It can improve the flow rate ig...

[@LostInTech3D]

that's kind of how the flsun S1 is configured, and how it gets so high flow

[@rel4518]

Did i see that text on screen right? (55mm^3/S) as in 55mm cubed?

[@LostInTech3D]

Yes!

[@leozolt]

Does it come in 1,5mm? that would be perfect to print heavily filled fibers containing thermoplastics.

[@ericolofsson]

How much of the nozzle are Polycrystalline Diamond? It just says diamod tip the site. The inside walls of the nozzle would still wear and probably most of the thermal transfer are down with the copper parts?

[@alexanderdaum8053]

Regarding the diamond soldering iron: Does molten solder stick (slightly) to PCD? In a soldering iron, you want the solder to be able to wet the tip, as that results in increased thermal conductivity, it acts like thermal compound between the iron and your part. (Note, that I'm not saying you should melt all the solder on your iron, just that a little molten solder on the tip will increase thermal transfer to the joint, so you can melt the solder on the joint faster).

[@MVPetroff]

@2:18 the graph is incorrect - hardness of copper is second only to diamond?? Carbide, ruby, steel should be harder than copper as well

[@LostInTech3D]

I've added a correction, it's the order of the labels that messed up

[@shadowphyre4746]

Great video as usual

[@erikkalmar4965]

Maybe surface ironing with diamond nosles is why also worth it to buy one of this

[@iopfarmer]

Diamond filled ABS! OMG this needs to be a thing! Make custom grinding wheels with is 😅

[@arthurmoore9488]

But would that actually work, and is it worth it vs just ordering one from a custom manufacturer? Seriously, I know Tennessee Abrasives does custom orders for not too much.

[@jonathanrogers9961]

Cool, but a bit overkill for my needs. Running a Ender 3 v2 neo, so far with PLA and PETG and the factory installed brass nozzle. Just ordered and upgraded nozzle to try from MicroSwiss. Got one of their high temp nickel plated M2 nozzles. Its probably also overkill for my needs, but it was also only $20, not $95 (half the cost of my whole printer) and hopefully will be on the only nozzle I wind up needing to buy.

[@Skuxxoffroad]

The fact that they haven't made a bambulab compatible hot end yet is borderline handicapped. So many people would buy them immediately

[@LostInTech3D]

I suspect it's imminent

[@JojoJoget]

Well slice engineering just released the Mako

[@username9774]

they have, revo diamond

[@soundspark]

I have a tungsten carbide nozzle on my 3D printer. About half the price, and will also happily carve up my bed if the Z offset gets messed up.

[@option350z]

Not to mention you can reach high temps with TC. A PCD tip does nothing for you when you stick it in a brass nozzle. Have fun not going above 300C.

[@backgammonbacon]

Diamonds are hard but hardness is measuring resistance to scratching. Abrasion is a different process and hardness isn't a 100% resistance to abrasion. Diamond nozzles will wear down eventually unfortunately.

[@3D_Printing]

6:38 Mr. Bond, James Bond 007

[@obant]

I want your pitcher plants at 8:40! haha

[@JojoJoget]

What advantage does this have over tungsten carbide? I don’t think 3d filaments have additives that are that hard that would warrant a pcd bit

[@username9774]

tungsten filled petg prusa sells would be bad ish for tungsten nozzles

[@jayfc3]

just curious if you plan on testing the obxidian nozzles since they are a bit more affordable for the average user.

[@LostInTech3D]

not sure - Tom Sanladerer did some pretty exhausting testing on those.

[@dbuezas]

Noted: produce a diamond soldering iron tip and ABS with diamonds, and I know whom to sell it to

[@LostInTech3D]

Oh yeah, I'm 100% up for that. I might be the only customer though.

[@Hilmi12]

You need to test it with PETG and especially with ironing top layer

[@cameronheinricks8571]

Nothing sticks to it but if you get a bigger blob started it will stick to the brass portion above the diamond tip

[@Hilmi12]

@@cameronheinricks8571 I've been debating getting one as I print lots of CF PETG for products I sell. PETG blobs have messed more than a few prints for me

[@KP-ty9yl]

Is glass filled TPU actually a thing :o

[@LostInTech3D]

I made a video about it 😁

[@KP-ty9yl]

@@LostInTech3D cool! I wish there were more wacky, exotic filaments like that around

[@corrupted1850]

You ever get 74mm^2/s flow with a 0.5mm nozzle well that's what the VZGoliath hotend can do might be because the meltzone is like 50mm's long

[@FlyingPeteNZ]

Nice Sarracenias... Anyway apart from the insanly high flow rates, I don't see the point of these forever nozzles. I started with a E3D V6 based printer many years back, had several nozzles in that, none of any of the fancy material (i.e. not brass) nozzles ever wore out before I moved to a E3D Revo, which recently got jammed up and I wrecked my fancy Obxidian nozzle and heater trying to seperate them, used this as an excuse to get a Bambu A1 which uses yet another nozzle type. I guess what I am saying is tech changes so quickly they don't get a chance to wear out. Check in again with me in around three years time and I will probably be using something else entirely.

[@ibot9828]

Unfortunately this definitely not a "forever nozzle" the brass will be damaged over time. By filled filaments, nozzle cleaning etc. A full tungsten nozzle will last way longer and may be the real "forever nozzle". If you really want a diamond nozzle, I would recommend the Trianglelab DLC copper one. At least more wear resistent than bradd.

[@WaschyNumber1]

You can get in every shop in the uk bananas without any problem in many kilograms if you wanted.

[@Billybobble1]

I'm a hobbyist, and in the last two years, a very slack one. I understand you (Lost in Tech) have only been into 3D printing maybe a little longer than myself, i.e. not that long relatively speaking. My question is, how are you so good at getting into these technical aspects? I enjoy your playful approach, but I also feel you know a lot more than you let on, despite being a relative newcomer. Would it be to rude to ask, what are your credentials? Do you have a Phd in engineering or similar? What is your technical knowhow to guide you on these exploratory paths? Or are you just a smart mofo that found their lane? Genuinely curious. Thanks.

[@Billybobble1]

I only ask this because I really do appreciate your content, this should be a way bigger channel x

[@LostInTech3D]

I think it's more about just being obsessively curious about things I'm interested in. No engineering qualifications unfortunately!

[@TechieSewing]

He's too modest to tell you, but it's 'just a smart mofo' option ;)

[@LostChaos1313]

55 holy f@&$, as a user of a ruby nozzle, I need to upgrade.

[@Wunderbolts]

I’m no expert but I don’t think the graph at 2:16 makes sense. Copper and brass are harder than tungsten? I use tungsten tools to cut copper and brass at my job all day.

[@LostInTech3D]

there's a correction :)

[@Chad.The.Flornadian]

Love your videos. Curious...are you ever going to make a cameo in one of your videos?

[@LostInTech3D]

I figure it'll have to happen at some point but....at the moment I don't even have room in the studio unless I get right up in the camera and nobody needs that lol

[@3D_Printing]

Copper is too soft but a good heat transfer option compared to expense

[@nosenseofhumor1]

Wow impressive flow rate- it just occurred to me that if you get the nozzle size close to the filament diameter you really don’t really need the filament to melt all through way through… hmmm

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah

[@ThorstenWirth]

Isn't ruby already good enough?

[@AaronALAI]

Interesting 🤔 would be good for very abrasive filaments

[@ThatGuy-ou4ev]

Tungsten filled filament that is used for radiation shielding...

[@marty4286]

There's a different brand on Amazon that sells what it claims to be diamond nozzles. If it's actually polycrystal diamond as claimed, it doesn't seem to be manufactured to the same high standard because most of the negative reviews I've seen of it is about how for some people the diamond tip has fallen out of the brass. I wonder if you can abuse genuine Diamondback nozzles until that happens to them as well

[@LostInTech3D]

I'm guessing that might be one of the things that sets them apart - I've not seen any first hand accounts of broken diamondback nozzles.

[@marty4286]

@@LostInTech3D I can't believe the "cheaper" guys get any sales at all, because they're not actually that much cheaper. $80 instead of $100, and you get shoddy workmanship or QC while still spending quite a lot for a nozzle

[@philippeholthuizen]

Hahahhaaa, love this video and its many many side comments. So just to be clear, the 1mm nozzle has superhigh flow, compared to other nozzles? How much higher?

[@LostInTech3D]

future video :) but as things stand, "a surprising amount".