Part 2 Underground shipping container shelter

If you have not seen part 1 click the link below
• Underground shipping c...
this is part 2 of how to safely build an underground shelter from a shipping container.
part 3 will be coming soon

[@senseipaans]

I watched the whole thing. I love your idea for a storm shelter AND root cellar. better and more spacious than ANY others I've seen. good job

[@michaelthomas3340]

This man knows what he is doing. Some advice on shipping containers is far from ideal. Beware the roofs ARE NOT STRONG,as the weight is normally taken at the corners.I built a strong bunker (not from shipping containers)I just welded etc.My own bunker is on KZbin under my name.I don't think you will go far wrong following the advice from this gentleman.

[@jasontate8829]

not to be an ass but all the steel he has installed to stiffen his bunkers I'm sure he gets damn near free because if you pay attention he sells it for a living. Just saying steel isn't cheap! however I am very impressed with his ideas and concepts! he addresses lots of very real flaws in other people's techniques.

[@micahjared8082]

this guy.... a modern day W.T.Sherman if i ever did see one. incase you forgot who he was; he was the guy who knew exactly how to reach the end goal- tho it was simply up to the 'rest of you all' to listen. Listen to what he says, and be rewarded. If your to do it - do it RIGHT! nice video learned a good deal more than i had thought of previously! thnx for it God Bless

[@Richard-pe4cx]

seems so obvious after you go through the reasons why you need to invert and strengthen thank you

[@firstgoinpostal]

I would have deconstructed two other containers for the added plating,and reinforcement materials.

[@ginaalwaysavip1177]

Great job I'm glad there's someone that knows what he's doing!Thanks

[@firstgoinpostal]

Put the bottom of one on the top,and plate it with the core 10. Then take core 10 to plate the bottom. the remaining framework from the deconstructed containers can be used for reinforcement of the walls. Buying the new steel would probably cost alot more than what two old beat up containers would.

[@MrClickbang357]

AAt first I wasn't gonna watch ur videos (cranky old man voice: I ain't goona watch some guy try to sell me nuthin') WOW am I glad I did Thank you for putting out the word!!! I am oging back right now and watching vid #1!

[@kentmosher2880]

Okay just to back up every word you said! We had a big fire here in Willow Alaska last year which took out many families homes. After the fire our church worked on cleaning up after the fire on many of the places which maybe lost everything or some only some outbuildings. I worked on one families home where the house and garage were good no damage but the greenhouse and one out building was lost. The outbuilding was two shipping containers with a trust roof over for a large shed. This was all burnt to the ground EXCEPT for the two containers. Now that little stick construction you show in your video with the big slab on the ground and the four post in the corners is all that was left! Now I thought that the sides would have still been there but NO, we did not find anything left of the sides or roof. You are correct when you say the sides and top are just for show not for work. Kent in Alaska

[@valevarkasys]

one thing you could have done is went to lowes to get a 6 mil, 20ftx100ft heavy duty tarp and cover the top of the container with it, then push the dirt on top. If you're careful with the dirt covering, the tarp shouldn't have any holes in it. This will provide true 100% waterproofing without having to look for every single crack in the container.

[@loveihi]

yes Marc I do cover it with plastic also put a coating of roofing tar on it will be in the part 3 episode. I'm a bit behind on getting that out because I had surgery the container is in the hole but I have not covered it yet in a few weeks I should be able to finish it and I will publish the part 3 showing the rest of the installation

[@gavinwalsh5238]

awesome videos would it be a good idea to surround the container with concrete to double the strength of the structure

[@donkeyboys6552]

Have you thought about pouring cement for your "new" floor? Even for the new roof a nice slab would strengthen it up the cheapest way, and if you make your forms so they are thick and wide enough you would cover the corners which would help you distribute any load above the rough. Like you said, the corners are the strength of this box.

[@chrisw5742]

Aircrete would be nice

[@michaelledford4751]

I inverted mine and used nearly the same bracing as you except I added two extra support channels on the outside of the long walks, I then insulated the side and rear wall with crush proof below grade insulation before backfilking ,at every weld joint I used belt and suspenders by applying a 1/2 thick head of Vulkem 1A polyurethane caulking over every weld and into the structure 6 inches ,for my roof I added two interior support beams ,I filled the channels of the corrugated with lightweight gunnite ,insulated with 6 inches of insulation glued to a 1' plywood before applying a 100 mil EPDM rubber roof with a layer of 1' crush proof insulation on top of the finished roof ,then I loose laid a solid sheet of 45 mil EPDM rubber over the roof before back filling ,the only thing I wish I had done was to create a functional basement under the shelter vs just the crawlspace & 4 sumps we put in to keep it dry .

[@michaelledford4751]

@Nimbus Nimbus go away troll,i spent 4 years in a trade school earning a journeymans card so i woupdnt have to deal with scab hacks like you ,point out a single step i took that isn't to code or far above code or stfu.

[@loveihi]

a couple people commented on using a sump pump. my design it is not needed. welds are tank quality. (like the hull of a ship). sump pump run alot if you below the water table. weld it water tight and there is no need for a sump or pea gravel.

[@stevemazz3121]

If you invert the container the floor should be water tight regardless of the new flooring you put in place since it is built to be water tight to begin with... Your flooring only adds strength to the floor which was lost when the container was inverted.

[@michaelthomas3340]

Shipping container floors are designed NOT to be 100% watertight. This was a stipulation from insurance companies, as if containers floated around for evermore, they would pose a terrible risk to shipping. A hole caused by by a collision with a ship could cause many, many, thousands of dollars to repair & even loss of life.

[@CC-NH]

some people would have put a tarp over that container for the night while it was raining??

[@robertjnels]

Nicely done. Can't wait to see then next video. I'm wanting to do the same thing.

[@thomasfrazier505]

I wonder if you could stack one container on top of another one and bolt and weld it together. cut the top from the upper one and seal it. I don't know! It's just a thought. Use all the scraps from the upper one to beef up the lower one. That was my plan, I'm hoping it works. What you are doing will work perfectly. I was just trying to squeeze a dollar.

[@bobv8219]

a tarp would have been good no now you got a lot of clean out to do brother and anyway keep going with your project have a nice day

[@SpectrumSurvivalist]

I would pour those spaces with concrete. Then weld on steel plate.

[@PaulHollandWheels]

Hey Guy, Cool video this is very good information. Suggestion Please use a respirator when you're inside that container welding. When I was a child there was a man in our town bulding his retirement sailboat and it was a doosy he never set sail because he burn out his lungs welding inside that thing. The whole town cried. Serious business you don't smell it any stronger than normal but its there thicker than usual. I hope this isn't too late. Have a good day.

[@loveihi]

+Paul Holland Yes you are right, I should be clearer about welding inside. I cut the escape hatch first and add ventilation fan. plus grind all paint where it is to be welded. a charcoal respirator would be a very good idea also. thanks for pointing that out, I will cover that on my next video.

[@jsbrodhead2999]

Great info!

[@hillbillydude]

I'm diggin the idea

[@wbwills2]

Liked & subscribed

[@richardlove4287]

Wouldn't you be cheaper to dig your hole put down a concrete slab then lower your container in and then do your steel reo and cover the whole thing with concrete. It's all water proof and you can then build a shed on top. Good vid though, thanks.

[@celticnations2460]

Something to consider as well is the wood in a container is treated with some pretty heavy pesticides and if it is used then you don't know what may have been spilled in it.

[@toolbox7890]

when flipping it over and your floor becomes your roof and before you add the steel over the beans would that be the time to add your electric for lighting and other what nots

[@SilverStarHeggisist]

I don't know about you, but I'd want all that accessible to easily maintain and fix

[@glockslice5027]

I'm deff into this an doing this next summer

[@thesurvivalist.]

Good work

[@stevygee605]

Ill be concreating the floor and using it as the roof. That would solve the issue so the wood acts as a form for the concrete with the steel beams is how many do cement roofs for a block underground container. The roof becomes the floor which is water tight. Weld doors airtight or open into pre entry room. I may overhanng roof and to a wall of brick or may contimue slab to extend roof structure and built to block work, half container half blockwork, double size. Their needs to be a slab so i think making a larger slab us no extra work. However goin to this length i keep comin back to just leaving the container out of the picture and just build blockwork to slab and roof/steel/concrete roof. I want something thats water proof. Any way great vid.

[@patharris5004]

Could you use two containers stacked Bottom container put in the hole right Top container placed upside down

[@georgebarnes4410]

I’m thinking about buying one of these and turning it into a house. Not burying it. It’ll sit on a slab. Is there any need to do all of that reinforcement? Eventually a second one will go right up against it on the side and a roof pit over the 2.

[@baconneggs2406]

looks like it would make a good shed but i wouldnt put the time energy into putting one of these in the ground

[@layna8924]

GREAT STUFF!...THANKYOU...;)

[@kwvtsalem]

Love the way you did it but I was thinking of he flipping. First having the floor able to "drain" is a good idea I think if it stays the floor. The issue is water mitigation form "the pit" is it not. I would think an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Looking at other videos adding pea gravel and a sump may be just that prevention. As to the structural I agree with the walls and other support. Now I am not a welder so My mind goes to other ways to solve that problem. Since the other pillars are how we can stack these that is the real weight bearing points is it not? By placing 6" or 8" I beams across them and then adding your internal support you have a way to hold the weight form the earth in the end. By the placing cross I beams from left to right and adding metal on top of that followed by 6" or more concrete you gain all the structural you need. As shown in other video leaving a 3' plus gap all the way around the container with the earthen wall covered with gunate (blown in concrete or the like with the earth in an angle of repose you get a area you can walk around but more importantly a way to inspect and keep no contact with the soil.

[@lejink]

Wonder what it would have cost to coat the container in bedliner for pickup trucks That stuff is pretty durable, if you could seal it up good it would be waterproof for a long time I imagine Or if that's expensive you could spray it with automotive undercoat, should give a decent rust protection

[@nt4g1]

I wish I could weld.. I like the inversion but being cheap I would invert, Pour concrete on the bottom/roof and put in a sump pump.. Then with a six inch space between container and earth pour concrete about 3 feet in rebar and let it cure and do the same every week until covered.. Spiral staircase into the shelter...

[@jsly5473]

weldingtipsandtricks.com

[@OffgridManiac]

I'll be watching put in a drain it will be fine we used. crushed gravel to back fill and dug it all out when the shelter buckled we ended up using it for storage on the job site and burried our school bus but it leaks to so just put in a drain

[@tessasimmons7536]

could I ask you how much did that cost you to fix everything in sid thank God bless u

[@macysmith5400]

GREAT

[@nathandean1687]

use expanding fire rated foam? then seal the top.

[@tbirdracefan]

What would you think of inverting, coating the old floor and beams with a roofing tar, then filling between the beams with concrete? My concern is that any water that could eventually make it into contact with the wood roof would eventually cause rot. I suppose termites could also be a problem area to address. Really like the Idea of inverting!

[@loveihi]

myself I would not choose to pour concrete between the beams. I know concrete is porous. and steel is not porous for a 20 foot container. it will take 5 sheets of 4 X 8 quarter inch steel plates. if you weld it solid there is no chance of moisture getting to the wooden ceiling. as far as termites they would not be able to enter the hatch area it has a seal. only other option for them is to climb up the vent pipe and and in and I doubt they will do that. inside you coat the wooden ceiling with a good sealing paint and moisture will not be able to contact the wood.

[@iammatty777169]

+loveihi Hey Mike, what do you think about using that Rhino-Liner spray ? I'd bet it would be a great idea. Try to see if you can get it cheap, and give her a good squirting. its gotta work in some way, yes. thanks brother 👍

[@dougiequick1]

Knows what he is doing but not crap about audio

[@goriverman]

Why did you not cover the top up with canvas if you knew it was going to rain.

[@oleysanches5698]

wouldn't it be easier to use those cross members that you put in the new "floor" to straighten it for a roof and put down some polyurethane on the wood to seal it and leave it right side up

[@Vincent2wice]

I heard the since metal trucking containers weren't made for underground, the roof and walls are NOT re enforced and will buckle and collapse once dirt or derbies are piled on it... Be careful!

[@bryanlewis7945]

How is the container doing these days? As of 1/2/23

[@mrjlesher]

Did you use a special rod or wire for welding ?

[@antonioporter7395]

Would you do work out of state?

[@heavenboundfarm2159]

I see what you mean about the floor. How much do you charge for a unit

[@briha3142]

It would be great if you could've given the costs associated with putting more steel in the (now) flooring, as well as costs to put 1/4" steel plating over the floor joists/wood (now the roof)! I think it'd be a lot cheaper to hot tar all nooks and crannies in that new roof (old flooring), compared to all that extra steel with full welding!! I don't know......if you flip a shipping container upside down, you're saying to basically put in added steel for flooring AND roofing! OMG, that would probably double the purchase price, just for that?!! But then i guess you're trying to up-sell this type of construction for extra revenue, eh?! You gotta eat, right?

[@justsoyouknow1196]

man where do u get ir steel? advice? thats a lot of money for just the steel

[@miket7763]

Why didnt he tarp the floor(top) after flipping ?

[@curtis133]

sweet whats your address , just marking spots on my trusty bunker map, when the zombie appoc happens im gonna need to move in, stock lots of salt n vinager chips , thanks in advance!

[@smooveking773]

Is this from a train or truck

[@garrettharding1775]

Does it stay pretty cool being that it’s under ground?

[@RangerOberon]

Garrett Harding it should just like a basement, or cellar, cool in the summer, insulated in the winter

[@ken25302]

Just a thought why not put container in place and fill with concrete?

[@loveihi]

that would be fine if you had access to it. Most installations are Miles back in the wilderness with no roads you would not be able to get a concrete truck to the site.

[@michaelthomas3340]

Yes,using the container as permanent shuttering is another good way. You'd need to put in temporary supports (steel or wood) every few feet, to stop the walls from pushing in,until the wet concrete had set.You could then remove & re- use these same props to support the roof, poured later.Personally I'd at least put some steel mesh in the walls. Do put in plenty of rebar across the short (8ft) span, set 2 inches above the roof on fibre spacers. (If you are not inverting the container I would use at least bar 5 every 8 inches or the centres of the ribs, with a roof at least 8 inches thick above the highest part of the ribs, particularly if you want a blast shelter, perhaps with over 2 ft of earth above.

[@joneangl]

At this point WE KNOW the top is what used to be the bottom. It kind of odd your talking like we are stupid but no tarp to stop rain and rust.

[@JarrettWilliams99]

Cost it in hot tar and it will last forever

[@daltondye705]

8:56 something ran behind him, looked like a coyote to me

[@lindalama2229]

Looks like the top of a black Truck to me

[@grantbeuchel691]

cant hear you

[@MrDawggie]

Too bad you couldn't Line-X it

[@nikond-vp9wt]

I live in ohio

[@zacharymiller260]

are people realy building this ?

[@patrickhatas3868]

I tornado or hurricane areas ? Your survival chance is almost 100% underground

[@jsbrodhead2999]

Unless you don't keep the water out... especially if you're in a low spot.

[@mikesmith5375]

buy a valley shelter cheaper in the long run- you will live:)

[@glockslice5027]

I'm deff into this an doing this next summer