LowRider v4 DIY CNC - BETA TEST Amazing hardwood cut at 3000mm/min and 12mm depth of cut!

[@design8studio]

FluidDial CRADLE v2.0 - for LowRider v4 (attaches to YZ plate on X-min side) www.printables.com/model/1037601-fluiddial-cradle-v20-for-lowrider-v4-attaches-to-y

[@GGGG_3333]

Mr. Ryan is truly an amazing person. I remember building my first ever cnc from his mpcnc burley set. The sad part is that I couldn't source the electronic parts as I used to live somewhere where it was hard to get even the basic equipment 😅. It still has a special place in my heart though ❤. My daily drive now is a Queen Ant Pro V2, but I might build myself a low rider v4 seeing your videos on it 😬. Thank you both for being so generous with your knowledge, experience and time ❤.

[@design8studio]

Yes, Ryan is a great blessing to many people. Much appreciated.

[@stephengolaski6451]

SUPER EXCITED TO UPGRADE. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HARD WORK TESTING DOUG.

[@design8studio]

😊 All the thanks to Ryan for this!

[@stephengolaski6451]

@@design8studio ill thank him with $$$ lol just ordered the upgrade kit.

[@jeromesurffoil7033]

It was so satisfying and impressive to watch! LowRider V4 is on my short list of next projects. Also, using the oscillating tool to cutout parts is a great idea!

[@design8studio]

I recently started using a sharp chisel to cut tabs, and there’s a lot to like about it, because it can reduce the amount of sanding needed afterward. You do have to be careful though, because you could cause a little bit of a blowout at the last part where the tab meets the other surface.

[@sethgibbons80]

Man I can’t wait until this is released!

[@design8studio]

The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two! Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@kimnach]

Well now, I'm two years into my build (still have not started the wiring on my V3 and now this. Good thing I'm retiring in a year and will actually have time.

[@design8studio]

Check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@davidchester5784]

Wow great job!

[@design8studio]

😊

[@just_bright]

Doug I have had my failed Lr3 build staring at me for over a year in the garage. I ordered the metal plates to upgrade to the lr4 but that was a month ago. I just seem to not be able to do anything technical like everybody else. It's been a long couple years of nothing but defeat. I'm trying to get the willpower up to start again and tear apart the lr3 and restart again. Looks awesome man as always.

[@design8studio]

@@just_bright I’ve been there myself. I figure probably everybody goes through that at some point. It’s probably a little bit like when an author has writer’s block. It’s really worth it if you can push through and make at least a little bit of headway every day.

[@luke.and.his.adventures]

Nice to see how it works and im really looking forward to print and build it.. lr3 was awesome

[@design8studio]

I predict you will be very pleased!

[@luke.and.his.adventures]

@@design8studio hope it will be soon ready to print :) we need more capable ppl like you :D

[@TheWelshrosie]

Awesome! Can’t wait to upgrade my LR2 to a LR4 🎉

[@design8studio]

You are really, really going to like it!

[@13blackandblue13]

Ah yeeees!!!! ive been waiting to build the LR4, i will start printing tomorrow as soon as possible

[@design8studio]

It is truly exciting! I'm seriously proud to have been permitted to be part of the beta crew, and can't wait to see what people make with this machine!

[@13blackandblue13]

@@design8studio I currently run my LR3 on your Parametric Bed Design, and now im going to build the LR4 which you are involved in with a new bed hopefully the unistrut version. And yes you should be proud for many reasons, thanks to Ryan and all involved in this including you, i was able to solve the Heart Surgery of my child.

[@design8studio]

@@13blackandblue13 thank you! I plan to install the LR4 on the same table my LR3 was on!

[@juanandrescarri27]

ooooooohhhhhh yeaaaaaahhhhhh!!! AMAZING!!! THANKS

[@design8studio]

😊

[@BRADtheracingMAN]

When will Ryan add the LowRider V4 on the website?

[@drkline69]

Yeah I'm only seeing the v3 on the website right now.

[@design8studio]

@@BRADtheracingMAN remember, he is a one-man shop, so be patient. My understanding is that he did get the hardware kits listed on the website today. I think it may be tomorrow or later before he gets the printable files made available.

[@kupperbikerackmounts8784]

@@design8studiothat’s awesome, I’ve been waiting patiently for

[@willemjoubert9316]

@@drkline69 I checked earlier today, and they are up. I was getting ready to build a MPCNC and decided to switch over to the lowrider V4. Exited to start working on mine this weekend.

[@landonhillyard]

Any word on if I can use my recently purchased Lowrider three hardware kit to build the Lowrider 4

[@design8studio]

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

[@manray8513]

Dayum, i just done printing for the mpcnc primo and saw your vid, i should’ve build this instead

[@design8studio]

It's a great machine!

[@manray8513]

I think i’m gonna use primo for making the frame for low rider, 32mm railing is huge

[@jolonandrade2793]

When will the files for printing be up?

[@design8studio]

The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two! Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@aaamott]

So exciting! Now all I need is 5x9 feet of extra space... And a few more of those mks closed loop stepper drivers

[@design8studio]

😊

[@jesse00077]

We have Alder - supposedly used here - in Finland.. We call it Grey Alder -> Harmaa Leppä which is regarded as soft wood.

[@design8studio]

Ah! Sorry for any confusion about the material

[@design8studio]

My efforts to research into it on Google had indicated that it is classed as a hardwood, though is on the softer side among the hardwoods. I did an additional search just now, and apparently there are variations of the species which are either classed as hardwood or softwood, depending on the variation!

[@jesse00077]

@@design8studio yeah there are many variation of Alder and obviously the climate might effect on hardness as well. I am not true wood specialist here. Anyhow I am really amazed Your cut depth and speed etc using Nema 17! And You mentioned that even AL is been cut 1/4" on a single pass... quite unbelieveble. I am not concerned of 3D printed CNC parts moreover of the power of Nema 17....

[@design8studio]

@@jesse00077 if I’m not mistaken, the test cut shown was powering them at a very comfortable 0.8 A. They can afford to have the amps upped to 0.85, 0.88 or maybe even 0.9 before getting very warm, and if someone were to print their motor mounts (and parts that are close to the heat) out of PETG, then someone could run the NEMA 17s at even one full amp or more, and so the holding power and torque are more than what most of us would imagine!

[@jesse00077]

Check out "Janka hardness scale"

[@Pippy626]

Wonder if we could swap the spindle/router for sander when we are done with the cutting. Or have a second Z that lower on the back side of the spindle

[@design8studio]

Perhaps doable. So, a few things here. 1. The new LR4 can have the mounts loosened to remove the router, without loosening the mounts themselves from the core. It was not that way on the previous version, LR3, and I think it's a great improvement. 2. Frequent removal and reinstall of router / other tools would probably be made easier and better if you install a power outlet socket right by the core, and lop off most of the power cord of the router, and have a plug on the end of a very short router cord (and same for other tool being swapped in). Then your power cord with the mounted outlet on it can stay permanently installed in the gantry's wiring harness. 3. I had an idea for a cam lever based way of removal and reinstall of router. I have not done it yet. I suggested it privately to Ryan. He pointed that the tolerances will be tight on the right amount of tension. 4. The tool mounts are designed for the diameter of your selected router. To make a sanding tool fit in the same mounts, it would either need to be same diameter as router, or be made to match via [printable?] adapter. 5. One can always redesign the mounts to hold two tools, but the further away a tool is from the core, the more forces there are that cause deflection, runout, etc. The tool where those forces matter the least, would be best choice for the added on tool.

[@Pippy626]

True I didn’t think of the deflection.

[@stevemecham7281]

is there a reason not to use 1/4 MDF for the struts?

[@design8studio]

@@stevemecham7281 1/4” MDF is a pretty good material for the struts. According to Ryan, he ranks MDF highly, just underneath hardboard. He recommends avoiding plywood, especially the lightweight, flimsy kind. Basically raw (unprocessed) wood can expand and contract, which is the opposite of what you want, so dimensional lumber is not a good choice, and plywood is better, but only somewhat. At least not ideal. My understanding from Ryan is the more processed a wood byproduct is, the more resistant it is to stretching and contracting, and this is why highly processed materials such as MDF and hardboard are what he recommends.

[@frederickwood9116]

Thanks for sharing. Can you give a little tour of the new design at some point. The gantry, the x and y rails, z axis arrangement. It looks like a full redesign. I never managed to build the LRv2 or the LRv3. Perhaps the LRv4 will materialise over an upcoming holiday season 😊 Thanks again for sharing.

[@design8studio]

One of the best ways to get to know your way around it, is to check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@stevemecham7281]

Any plans on reworking it to get more height on the Z like you did for the LR3?

[@design8studio]

The new LR4 has more Z movement range than the LR3, and neither Dan nor I saw any need to bother with modding for additional height, especially since the LowRider's most rigid position is all the way down, so upper regions are not the best strength for cutting. For those who need to cut deep, a drop table, aka deep cuts table, is better. Instead of raising the machine, lower the material!

[@badcraftwoodworking6682]

@@design8studioany examples of a drop table that are in use for full length machines? Really grateful for the work you guys put in!!! 🎉🎉🎉

[@design8studio]

@@badcraftwoodworking6682 All that is needed for that would be, for example, to buy some long strips of MDF, and stack up as many as you need, and attach them to the sides of the table for the LowRider to ride on them. If those strips are secured, and the LowRider belt tensioners are securely attached to the top one, then you have just increased the LowRider’s ability to make deep cuts in a way that does not compromise the machine’s rigidity. We need to find a new name other than drop table because it unintentionally gives the impression that the table needs to be able to move or drop when really what we’re talking about is giving the table added height on the edges where the LowRider runs.

[@jerrydparks5173]

Is this new version 4 using same board box as the lr3 etc. For jackpot board or skr ?

[@design8studio]

Yes indeed. Can still use any 5 driver board. List of recommended includes Jackpot and SKR.

[@design8studio]

Regarding the case / enclosure for the control board, Ryan has offered a basic box that fits and works, and some variations or self-created versions were made during the beta, but I don't think they were shared yet.

[@jerrydparks5173]

@design8studio sorry for the late response , thank you !!

[@jerrydparks5173]

I see on v1 website the v4 is there and printables has dust shoe stl. Files for v4. When will the rest of the printable parts be available for download ? Didn't know if you had any incite !!! Thank you in advance !!

[@design8studio]

@@jerrydparks5173 Ryan will be posting them to Printables.com and Thingiverse.com as soon as he can. The hardware kits did go on sale on his website yesterday, and we’ll just have to wait patiently for the printable files. Hopefully soon!

[@jerrydparks5173]

@design8studio awesome thank you for the incite ! This is an amazing update, I'm excited for this new build ! Appreciate all that you do for the community as well!

[@jdrollason]

So the real question is do i want to build this or the mpcnc. I have a blank slate for a workspace so now i need to do more research

[@design8studio]

@@jdrollason several are pointing out that they feel that the LowRider is better in both small format and large format. It is a little bit more involved of a build than the MPCNC, but those who have built both say that they like the LowRider’s easier material loading options and other things about it.

[@design8studio]

@@jdrollason look for a thread on the V1E forum, titled “LowRider stubby.”

[@jdrollason]

@design8studio that helps. Thank you. I do the like the more open concept of it. Thank you

[@jlg23us]

Is this a pre-tuned firmware, or is this after testing and calibration on your end?

[@design8studio]

This config file for FluidNC was originally downloaded from V1E.com and I later increased its max travel speed, and I think I upped its acceleration value by some amount. The machine itself ought to be tested for both squareness and the gantry being trammed to the table, however when this test was done, I had not done either squareness or tramming. Because this machine is smaller than a full size table, it's less crucial but should still be done. Ryan, founder of V1 Engineering, mentioned likely updating the downloadable config file to account for the increased rigidity and ability of the new LR4. I don't know yet if he did that. If anyone wants to see my config file to compare to their own, I'm willing to share, with the caveat that it's not advisable to simply swap in someone else's config file, because they may have add-ons (I have a FluidDial pendant) and the latest config file from V1E.com may have newer content that is beneficial.

[@yellowyuzu1311]

Why was I expecting it to make a lowrider car hahaha

[@design8studio]

@@yellowyuzu1311 😂

[@miguelcirc]

A M A Z I N G! Thanks! Yes, it's truly exciting! Do no know when we'll can buy the kit in the v1e shop? Thanks a lot for you contribution!

[@design8studio]

Late Monday night, Ryan said Tuesday! I don't know what time on Tuesday, but sometime!

[@miguelcirc]

@@design8studio of course, here in Europe we are on the morning and there on the US are a few hours sooner

[@nostalgicmusic571]

@@design8studio wow finally

[@iangraham6730]

The day I've been waiting for 🙂 Gonna try printing as much as I can on my Saturn resin printer using ABS-like resin, it will be much faster and probably stronger then PLA . . let you know how it turns out!

[@design8studio]

Sounds awesome. The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two! Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@iangraham6730]

@@design8studio Cheers Doug!

[@fenixasin]

How much / difficult is it to upgrade from v3 to v4?

[@design8studio]

I'm doing that now! Takes longer to take the old LR3 apart than it does to build the LR4 that replaces it. The hardware, steppers, couplers, bearings, idlers, etc all carry over. The lead screws need to be longer, unless your LR3 was a "tall" version. The linear guides also need to be longer. There is new build documentation being worked on as we speak. Check it out at: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@baudrigatz]

Awesome ! Is the MPCNC going to be also upgraded ?

[@design8studio]

Only Ryan could answer. His track record is that everything is potentially upgradable.

[@jesse00077]

Unbelievable that this is done with Nema17 motors..!

[@design8studio]

Yes, indeed! The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two! Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

[@AzaB2C]

Very cool. Neat machine and video of the cuts possible. Cheers for sharing details about what settings are working for you! Is this Alder hardwood?

[@design8studio]

Thanks, awesome friend! Yes, my best understanding is that it is Alder hardwood.

[@RoboArc]

Not a fan of the low rider, I do like to check out their desgines though. Its good for most hobby situations though. I built my own cnc that's printed its able to do soft and light hard metal work.