This is my first time posting anywhere... Doug, your content on this channel on on forums had been INVALUABLE. Thank you so much for devoting the time and effort to sharing your experiences.

I had some issues getting this printed. Can you tell me if you had any issues getting it printed? I tried printing the first part of it last night, and it left a sizable chunk of the part and I had to cancel it. Any help is appreciated. I am using flashforge PETG and the ORCA-Flash Maker software. I am wondering if that might be part of it.

I’m using the stock camera and for some reason im getting only 2-3 frames, what i do wrong?

This works well however I had to modify the body STL a bit to make it work with 20mm M3 screws since I didn’t have any 23mm ones.

I spy some LR4 items 😮 can't wait to hear how it is

Have you found the switch useful after all? I am now in the process of sorting electricity, so just wanna know your opinion :)

Hi Doug, tricky question for you. Does one attach the power supply directly somewhere on the jackpot case / lowrider beam? Or is it better to have it on the table somewhere and bring just the cable to the jackpot? Thank you.

Wow its amazes me that a 3d prtinted thing can be so powerful :)

Does anyone know how to calibrate the load cells? I did the load_cell_tare command, but my bed mesh probing is still inconsistent. It triggers probe before hitting the bed in certain spots, but certain others probe just fine. It's weird...

Does one print the drag chain too or did you purchase yours and just made the additional adjustments?

Would you do the grid so fine again? Did you do something similar with your Jackpot too? :)

Can I use smaller magnets and attach them just with glue? I have some around, with smaller diameter and I don't wanna purchase a package of new magnets just to get two of them:)

Hello? Did you have good weekend? I have a problem. The speed of 3D connexion settings cannot be adjusted in each app. Even if I lower or increase the speed bar, the moving speed is the same. Is there anything I did wrong? I am using the old firmware version, but the new firmware version is also the same. So in my cad, which I use, the speed is too fast, so int totalSentitivity=70; (350 --> 70) Since the value of is lowered a lot, it is usable in my cad program. :-)

Excellent ideas on this channel!

Thanks for your great contribution to the CAD community. Everyone who made remixes and added something contributed to the development of these ideas. I've wanted this manipulator for a long time, but now??? Parts are already flowing to me from Ali (much cheaper) and I will start construction soon. Good luck with your next projects.

Hey Doug, using a bunch of your mods currently on the AD5M. Really enjoy them and make the AD5M way better. One issue I have is for some reason my drag chain slaps into the top left side of my enclosure when the extruder goes all the way to the left. Was curious if you knew how to fix this? Im using the stock chain that came with the ad5m kit + one extra link and your drag chain termination.

Is it possible to use key button actions when using the previous code? I couldn't find the key-related code in the code. I have an idea. For example, if you quickly push the stick knob down twice, it switches from CAD to the home position. It looks good, but is this possible?

I am not at the point of squaring yet (still in the assembly part) - but is there somewhere any decent guide how to make DIY Z-probe? :) Thank you

Does it have to be connected to the USB source too? I am not getting the EST32 board. Do I have to run separate cable to the board? So one for the 24v and the other one for the 5V USB? Thanks Doug. :)

I have one question. When I tilt the joystick, the modeling rotates and zooms in slightly at the same time. What is the solution? When I used teachingtech's code, it worked normally and was fine. I tried modifying the sensitive values ​​and settings, but the problem is the same.

every time i tried to use this mod the printer seems to crash a lot from the system overloading

Hey Doug, I'm finishing up the build of my Lowrider 3 and I love your idea of the torsion box table with the metal rails. The only thing is I cannot find a metal rail file version that is 6" tall rather than the (LR3 Table, Metal Strut Rails, 23/32’’ plywood (Slot_Width 0.719’’ or 18.2562mm) 3 5/8’’ tall). Do you have a 6" tall metal strut version file?

do you know is FluidNC dial pendant is compatible with grblHal. If yes is it plug and play? thank you very much :)

There is no need to drill a hole in the joystick plunger to secure the joystick and ball. If you look at the top of the joystick plunger, a 1mm hole has already been drilled, and it is easy to assemble using M1.5 screws. You can also make some modifications to the ball.

Ok, so is the pedant connected to the driver board or to the PC that connects to the lowriders esp?

Would love a video showing how to set up the wifi

I have added new firmware sketches to my Printables listing here: www.printables.com/model/908684-spacemouse-mini-slim-profile-with-easier-assembly Here’s a description of the newly added firmware options: Arduino Sketches fine tuned for MacOS and Windows NEW firmware sketches (as of June 16, 2024): Mac and Windows • Kudos to Printables user @stavros who pointed us to a newly revised repo on Github that works with all axes at once, and likewise kudos to Github maker AndunHH who posted this new code, which is available here: github.com/AndunHH/spacemouse • The new code supports keys being added to your Spacemouse. I'm not yet using this new feature, but maybe you want to. • After careful efforts, I have created two variations of AddunHH's work, which I am providing here, and they each have the following attributes:  • The “config.h” file is already created for you, but you should still do some hardware calibration, which is made easier by use of a semi-automatic method triggered by setting the debug mode to a value of 20, and then compiling and uploading the code, and turning on the serial monitor in Arduino IDE, and physically toggling your Spacemouse's knob all around to its extremes in all directions, for about 15 seconds. The serial monitor will then spit out some values to copy and paste into your config! Cool. • Of the two new sketches I added for Arduino IDE, they both work for either Mac or Windows. The difference between them is one is for up+down = zoom (my preference) while the other is for forward+back = zoom (the default behavior for the 3D Connexion tutorial). So here's what to do: Steps to setup and upload one of the new firmware sketches: 1. Using the info above, be sure you add the modified content to your “boards.txt” file for Arduino IDE, so it will show a choice for you, under "Tools > Board > Arduino AVR Boards" of “Spacemouse Pro Wireless (cabled).” 2. Download and unzip your choice of either -“spacemouse w fwd-back = zoom.zip” or -“spacemouse w up-down = zoom.zip” 3. Browse into the subfolder named "spacemouse-keys" and double click on the “spacemouse-keys.ino” file inside that folder, to open it in Arduino IDE. 4. Select your board under "Tools > Board > Arduino AVR Boards" of “Spacemouse Pro Wireless (cabled).” 5. Select your port under “Tools > Port” -presumably this is a USB port by which you're connecting your Spacemouse. 6. Click the “Upload” button (arrow icon) or press Command+U (Mac) or Ctrl+U (Windows) or in the menu, tap on “Sketch > Upload” - to compile and upload your firmware. 7. To edit debug mode and do some calibration, go to the subfolder named “spacemouse-keys” and open the “config.h” file in your favorite code editor / text editor such as Visual Studio Code. 8. Set the debug mode to 20, save the file, and repeat the upload step above. 9. In Arduino IDE, switch on the Serial Monitor -in the menu tap “Tools > Serial Monitor” 10. Once the upload completes, the output in the Serial Monitor will tell you to physically move your Spacemouse's knob all around to its extremes in all axes for about 15 seconds. Once it gathers the movement data, it will show you values looking something like this: MINVALS {-526, -517, -522, -518, -508, -506, -508, -512} MAXVALS {497, 506, 328, 505, 515, 517, 515, 511} 11. Copy those values and paste them into the “config.h” file, replacing the existing values, but being careful to not remove the following at the start of each of the two lines: #define (Note: all lines starting with "//" are merely remarks that the compiler ignores.) 12. Do any other debugging modes you like, which are explained at the start of the “config.h” file. 13. Download the driver from 3Dconnexion, and install it. 14. In 3Dconnexion Home, run the trainer. 15. If you have trouble with any directions being wrong, be aware that although I have them working right in my environment for both Mac and Windows, on some systems they may need tweaked. The tweaks would happen either in the “config.h” file or the main “spacemouse-keys.ino” file. 16. Happy Spacemousing!

hey again doug, its been while but i finally got my low rider mostly built, its just waiting for its table to be built its a non standard machine slightly over 4ft (1320mm) for the x and a bit over 8ft for the y. seems a lot has changed since i got the chance to look at my machine esp with these fenders, ill have to get more blue grey and black filament lol

How did you remove the Flashforge logo from the enclosure top and ad your logo ? I would like to do this for mine . I have all of your upgrades printed and ready to install when I get the top part of the enclosure printed .

For the holes with 'false bottoms' I've been having a lot of luck using the stepped-up-line support method. Make it so there are 2 bridges across the primary gap that skip the center-hole, then do it again rotated 90 degrees one layer up, then it lays the curvature areas onto that. Works like magic and gets rid of that whole manual punch/drill process for any recessed hole. It also looks cleaner, and might save someone from accidentally poking themselves.

just found this after being only mediocrely happy with the "original" space mouse by shiura, will be printing this with a different knob as soon as my current print is done.

Didn't he make a smaller version already? Or is this the one?

Do you mind sharing if you had to do anything out of the ordinary to get the webcam to work in Mainsail? Thanks!

maybe this should not have been one of the first videos I watched ....my god I am lost AF!!!!

Would this allow us to use an ams of some type?

Please edit-out your failures, my time is valuable!

I just purchased this printer and plan on doing the enclosure mod . Do you have a list and source for all the different fasteners ?

Where did you get the knifes because i woukd really like to install this. It is so annoying having to take the lid off and tube in and out of the printer.

Hello Mr. I see that the XYZ axes are always in mm can I put the reading in degrees as if they were 3 horizontal indexers and maybe add more axes or indexers as A B C and if you can also add a speed regulator to the head or Motor? it is for a Nema 17 notor with a reducer with a ratio 100/1 I have 3 motors and their reducers to be indexers in degrees thank you

Can you improve it? This is not suitable for use on the 5m pro, the original tow chain end will be blocked

Can you tell my why my tool path is being cut also

thank you so much for this code lol i was so lost with this

May I ask which Chinese company you ordered your Magnabend from?

Thanks for putting these projects together as one whole. This is a simple upgrade that brings a lot to quality of life for this printer, or any modern print system.

Great solution, Doug! Thank you.

Simple and efficient , very nice.

hi. where can i found set of build plates? from 17:15

Hi, thanks for that great topic, I' ll use it for my printer 👍