LowRider v4 DIY CNC - full-sheet capable - 24v power routing, COB LED, cooling fan

NOTE: 24v fans are available, affordable, and would make it unnecessary to use a buck converter. Please don't assume a buck converter is needed to make a fan work on a LowRider. Just wiring the right fan to the power terminals is good. I bought 24v fans, but the ones I got were very loud, even when under-volted. So, I used a quieter fan I already had on hand, but it was 12v and thus needed a buck converter. I could have, and probably should have, explored quieter 24v fans!
Jackpot control board from V1E.com running FluidNC firmware - enables TMC2209 drivers powering the NEMA 17 stepper motors.
LR4 cut videos:
Doug’s LR4 Beta hardwood 3000mm/min and 12mm depth of cut - • LowRider v4 DIY CNC - ...
Doug’s LR4 Beta MDF pocket cuts - • LowRider v4 DIY CNC - ...
Jonathan’s LR4 RC2 Cutting Plywood - • LR4 Beta RC2 Test Cut
Philipp's LR4 Beta vs. Aluminium (8.2mm DOC Trochoidal!) - • LR4 Beta vs. Aluminium...
Philipp's LR4 Beta Test Box for a Bullitt Cargobike - • Box for a Bullitt Carg...
Philipp's LR4 Beta Test 33 second CNC Drag Race - • LowRider 4 Beta - 33 s...
Links:
Build log for my LowRider v4 CNC (upgrading full size LR3 to LR4): forum.v1e.com/...
Free plans for LowRider DIY CNC: docs.v1e.com/l...
Download LowRider v4 STLs: www.printables...
Jackpot CNC Controller I use on my LowRider: www.v1e.com/pr...
FluidNC firmware I use on the Jackpot: wiki.fluidnc.com/
V1E Theme for FluidNC WebUI v3: forum.v1e.com/...
FluidDial firmware I use on the Pendant: wiki.fluidnc.co...
My build log for my LowRider v3: forum.v1e.com/...
My build log for my FluidDial pendant: forum.v1e.com/...
Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes: www.printables...
View all my Design8Studio models and remixes on Printables: www.printables...
My PayPal tip jar: paypal.me/desi...
*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

[@design8studio]

NOTE: 24v fans are available, affordable, and would make use of a buck converter unnecessary. Please don't assume a buck converter is needed to make a fan work on a LowRider. Just wiring the right fan to the power terminals is good. I bought 24v fans, but the ones I got were very loud, even when under-volted. So, I used a quieter fan I already had on hand, but it was 12v and thus needed a buck converter. I could have, and probably should have, explored quieter 24v fans!

[@1powelrainbow2]

Love it! I'll take notes for my own ideas once it's time for LR4

[@design8studio]

Cool. NOTE: 24v fans are available, affordable, and would make use of a buck converter unnecessary. Please don’t assume a buck converter is needed to make a fan work on a LowRider. Just wiring the right fan to the power terminals is good. I bought 24v fans, but the ones I got were very loud, even when under-volted. So, I used a quieter fan I already had on hand, but it was 12v and thus needed a buck converter. I could have, and probably should have, explored quieter 24v fans!

[@clayscustom]

Nice! Looks like we are on similar paths for the v4 builds.

[@iangraham6730]

Nice! Keep it up Doug!

[@design8studio]

Thanks!

[@alumunum]

I should build one.

[@design8studio]

It is an impressive machine!

[@landonhillyard]

I just recently bought the kit for the Lowrider V3. Any news on how much of my hardware is still useful?

[@design8studio]

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

[@landonhillyard]

@ exactly what I wanted to hear thank you

[@DIYSTUDIO-b1y]

😮