LS / Vortec Rear Main Seal Replacement

[@michaelvond8205]

the white insert is for the lip of seal you leave it in and as u drive on seal it pops out.

[@govsux1]

Thanks for that... that makes sense now.

[@deankay4434]

I like the part where he says “Just wanted to make sure I was putting it in the right way”. They all have raised lettering on them that says”This Side Out”. The GM tool is an over-designed expensive Kent-Moore version that centers the cover. Then you used the seal install tool that holds it snug with the white seal lip retainer left in it. You drive the seal home as there is a stop cast in the cover, then the white seal lip retainer falls into the tool. Dry!

[@rafaelramirez8693]

I noticed that, I think is a good video anyway 👍🏾

[@berzerked7473]

The only thing I disagree with is not cleaning the mating surface for your Gasket.

[@deankay4434]

@Ber Zerked Nice suggestion and good catch. As a retired ASE Master Tech, I would hit it with some cleaner, scotch-brite and a dab of high temp red RTV in the corners. Maybe it’s me, but I tapped a seal in place one day 30 years ago and saw the garter spring fall off and lay inside the hole. I have always gently filled a little grease in that back cavity around the spring if there is one. These don’t take lube on the inside on the crank dry by the book. Without opening the LS gasket kit sitting 12 ft. away, I don’t think these use a garter spring. Also, if there is not groove on the rear crank flange, I would still expect to see a burn’t oil ring and using some scotch-brute again, brake clean, I would feel dirty. If the seal, old or new, sits over this, it will leak. Just too cautious from years of production work because a “Come Back” doesn’t pay well. Plus customers hate leaks, even if it’s water dripping out of the HVAC drain on a hot humid day. They still complain!

[@sschevmale24]

@@deankay4434 damn water drip lol . Tell them if it ain't dripping your shit wont be working lol

[@deankay4434]

Carbon, pressure and heat. The next guy will have diamonds.

[@AquariumMania]

That cover and the surface on the block should have been cleaned way better, should of done some light scraping then hit it with some scotch brite. also see those 3 small notches around the rear main seal, right on the cover? Those are so you can tap a screwdriver into/thru the seal and then pry it, its alot easier.

[@ze_german2921]

Here is a tip, if you want to clean pistons or any other internal parts, soak them in Berrymans Chem-Dip. It is $30/gal but worth it. I just re-ringed my lq4 And the carbon buildup was immense. Absolutely nasty. Soak em over Night and they are like new.

[@kevinhumphrey932]

What about the bar bell replacement and did you know they have air and battery operated tools to speed up the disassembly process

[@Givemeafinname]

Pro tip: But a lot of 10 mm sockets so you will have one when you need it..

[@shaneharvey1015]

I’ve never seen anybody install the crankshaft still after they put the plate back on. Did that still end up leaking or did it hold up?

[@CliffsHowTo]

I’ve not had an issue

[@jerryhuff86]

Why don't you get a cordless drill/wrench to take those bolts out?

[@CliffsHowTo]

Good idea

[@fishntools]

You never showed the cleaning of the crank hub? Scotchbrite works great for this.

[@wht240sxka]

I always use a dab of rightstuff in any transition like in your case back plate and oil pan. This is extra insurance that there won’t be a leak. Also with that tool if you were to use a block of wood on the back to drive in seal evenly. If it were me, and had that cover off I would also install seal on bench then use Vaseline around the mating surface to the crank.just my 2 cents all in all nice job.

[@losteroni]

I would also drive the seal in then install the cover using the seal to center it . In fact you can buy the cover with the seal installed .

[@ChrisTheMobileMechanic]

@@losteroni thats what i did, buy a new cover seal and bolts kit. For like 50 bucks. No fancy tool needed. 7k miles and not a drop of oil leaking from my 310k miles 01 Tahoe 5.3

[@govsux1]

Great video thanks. Just my opinion... but unless you see an obvious leak around that larger housing gasket I would leave that whole thing on and just do the rear main seal. Just double check all those 10mm bolts are snug. Use a small screwdriver and slowly,,, without scratching the housing or crank... peel the old one out. Clean the heck out of the surfaces with some solvent.. then put a bit of grease on the crank and slowly tap the new gasket in working you way around if you don't have that $100 tool this guy had. The reason for not doing the whole housing gasket is you are sort of risking creating a new leak at the bottom at the oil pan because you sort of lost your compress fit when you took it off. In other words normally the oil pan would go on after. Now you doing that in the wrong order. So unless you have a leak.. leave that large housing on as you know it's already centered and it's snug at the oil pan. If it ain't broke... don't fix it. That gasket doesn't generally wear out anyway. Just my 2 cents.

[@jtpro]

Thanks for your ".02". I'm up to about a dimes worth right now. I've had no less than four other mechanics or knowledgeable vehicle people tell me the exact same thing. I'm getting ready to swap out my transmission and transfer case in my 02 Silverado and the general consensus is leave that cover plate alone and just do the rear main. stating the exact same thing as you did rarely leaks and I could potentially be creating more problems down the road. Thanks for chiming in with this advice. 👍

[@Trident_Euclid]

Doesn't the seal need to be slightly lubricated first before installing it?

[@CliffsHowTo]

I’m pretty sure it was pre lubed with grease. If yours isn’t, then put a little grease on it before install.

[@deankay4434]

That robotic room where the LS engines I was assembled did not use lubricant on the front or rear seal. Plus, GM’s electronic service information says to install both front & rear seals dry. It is temping not not used. It is not the same viton-type seal with a “Garder Spring” on the back, to hold it tight on the shaft. Oil or lubricant attracts dirt which accelerates wear creating the wear lip witness mark. Yes, completely assembled by robot arms, bearings, camshaft bearings are picked up, spun to locate one oil hole, then hydraulically pressed in place. Ever notice the cam is hollow? A long shaft passes thru it, comes out the back side, then slid in by plastic cover robot arm. Only at the end, fluids are added, yellow mark is painted and ran on natural gas for 10 minutes at 2K RPM, tagged, drained of coolant, boxed and disappears thru a plastic door. On the far side on the room, another freshly machined block comes in thru plastic doors from the “Blanking” room. It is a 24 hour ballet, just electric servo motors, arms repeating movement and compressed air, “DaVinci-III measuring arms and optical sensors over roller trays everywhere. I only saw 3 people inside the room in space-suits, 1 ran checks on engine while on natural gas, and two others loading parts & checking fluid tanks. Amazing, 100% automated. Retired ASE Master Tech/ Raytheon contract employee-Retired.

[@adamwest3637]

I’m just starting to look this up. I’m mechanically inclined but new to this type of repair. Is it possible to do this on the truck without a lift? Do I have to remove the transfer case and transmission? I’m sure there’s tons of tricks I don’t know but I’m sure I can figure it out.

[@CliffsHowTo]

You can do it on jack/stands. You will need to pull the transmission and transfer case.

[@x-man5056]

Does anyone know if this is the same (roughly) configuration of the main seal on '03 Chevy Vortec 4.3ltr.?

[@craigcochran5729]

Reminds me of Skyrim with the delay of sound with the hammer lol cool video though, I like it 😁

[@johnnywright1083]

i just watched this and i put my new seal in backwards when i took the old one out i laid it on the floor like it came out and then when i picked up the new one i noticed it looked like it went in with the lip to the inside wrong now gona have to drop trans and transfer case

[@expatconn7242]

Is there s part number? For that alignment tool?

[@deankay4434]

@

[@deankay4434]

@anthony marasco >Just buy the ones sold buy Sac City Corvette. You can hard work reusable tools for both ends, foe the price to one he used in the video. Alway install rear seal interior dry. It is designed this was using different compound. Also, Sac City Corvette has a “Bar-Bell” shaped rear oil passage part that eliminates contaminated oil from going into your lfters bearings, lifters, mains & rods etc. the OEM one is plastic and I would suggest replacing. Hopes this helps.

[@baldemar2102]

Is this same seal and plate for a v6 4.3l? 2009 silverado 2door 2 wheel drive

[@CliffsHowTo]

I’m not sure.

[@customer3060]

Loosening the oil pan is unnecessary and could result in you having to change that gasket as well that tool should work perfect without loosening the oil pain

[@buddyrebel_Garcia]

That is what I was looking at. He didn't have to loosen the pan, that's what the tool is for.

[@Autotruck7213]

Since you're doing all that work you should have replace the galley barbell/ oil diverter plug while you had the rear main cover off..

[@CliffsHowTo]

Yup. And should have done that timing belt! I think I’m going to round up another motor soon to rebuild and swap in. Put a cam and some head work into that one...

[@acelio23]

You should had change the barbell oil bypass plug in while your ware doing that oil seal

[@CliffsHowTo]

I agree!

[@robertmunguia250]

Nice video! What are the torque specs for all those bolts?

[@CliffsHowTo]

+Robert Munguia I thought I said in the video, but you can find them here: www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

[@smms1276]

Probably 18 ftlbs

[@cadenbrown7407]

For those size bolts usually it will be 18ftlbs, but be sure to look up the torque specs just in case

[@nemoraymond]

How much wear did you see on the lip area? was it noticeable? how many miles?

[@gbenz6494]

What type of engine hoist are you suspending the engine on?

[@CliffsHowTo]

www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html

[@gbenz6494]

@@CliffsHowTo Do you know if the harbor freight engine stand will maneuver OK over or under the harbor freight hoist legs or base? Trying to find a good combo hoist and stand so I can avoid issues when transferring the engine from the hoist to the stand.

[@CliffsHowTo]

That’s what I used. Didn’t have any issues.

[@Synaux]

Oooof I hope you are still needing to do the oil pan because you forgot to rtv the corners :o

[@CliffsHowTo]

Yeah, I had to take it back off and do that.

[@jayaguilar8253]

11:11 just taaaaaap it in, give it a little tappy tap tap tap ah roooouuuu

[@shroom903]

Using the largest thumb detector possible

[@jerryhuff86]

Consider chasing threads before reassemble

[@frankyhernandez476]

I know this is a different seal, but I have an 05 Envoy with a 4.2L, seal is very similar but I’m struggling to get the seal in. Looked like the same problem you were having, then suddenly once you realized you had it going in the wrong way, you skipped passed the install. Any tips on getting the seals to seat properly, or did it just slide right in?

[@CliffsHowTo]

Yeah, it’s hard to do things and hold the camera sometimes... what you need to do is find something circular the same size to put over it and tap it in. I think I’m this instance, I used the old seal.

[@rafaelramirez8693]

I see 3 years since this video. For sure you don't need it no more but the seal come new whit a round soft plastic "installer guide" but this guy on the video he removed and installed with out. It hard that way. Again you don't need it but maybe someone will can check the comments. Have a good one 👍🏾

[@DONTCALLMETHAT]

I did mine 4 years ago. 2004 Tahoe. Required no special tools. Hasn't leaked a drop since

[@betosgarage]

You just recplaced the gasket and circle seal and reinstalled it to torque specs?

[@robertmunguia250]

What are the proper torque specs if I may ask?

[@buddyrebel_Garcia]

18 ft pounds for the upper 12 bolts and 106-inch pound for the bottom long bolts.

[@SebastianHernandez-mc6qw]

Do you know the torque of the motor oil pan of every single screw it seems like is different torque when it gets to the screws close to the filter and transmission help me with that one bro

[@chasbader]

This is with the engine out. How hard is it to pull the engine?

[@CliffsHowTo]

That is a relative question. Would I pull the motor just to do this job? Probably not. Although, if you have the right tools, you can pull the motor pretty quickly. When I pulled the motor to put this motor in, I had out in about 2.5 hours.

[@ggonzalez3181]

Thank you for your video and your time 👍👍👍👍👍🍺😎

[@wesleymareels]

you forgot to ad past in the corners of the pan where the to seals meet😏

[@bcbp14]

What the blue filter looking thing called? Looks like and oil filter but obviously isn't. Fuel filter maybe?

[@CliffsHowTo]

That’s the oil filter.

[@bcbp14]

@@CliffsHowTo what's the aluminum cylinder with the fuel lines running into it. It's bolted to the block.

[@bcbp14]

I got it. The oil cooler.

[@mlez7197]

Great video ,what's the amazon installer part number ? Thank in advance

[@CliffsHowTo]

CBM Motorsports CBM-10449 LS Series Front and Rear Cover Alignment Tool www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLMZCHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S0rjAb4JC8M4X

[@kennethwelch1811]

Rob show this to colby

[@SebastianHernandez-mc6qw]

Good job all I want it to know is the torque and what to removed and dont removed you should it done it from the starter how to remove the transmission and change the the reten I'm sorry bro but that how you say it in Spanish

[@jim1934]

Sorry bro, but who cares how to say it in Spanish?

[@TheGregd81]

The cover above the oil filter? Where did u purchase and name?

[@CliffsHowTo]

+Greg d Greg d oil cooling line bypass, eBay.

[@thardrick96]

Ict billet

[@vunit8213]

Dose seal go in dry? Or are you supposed to lube it with oil first?

[@CliffsHowTo]

I think the seals I had were prelubed. However, if they are dry, you’d want to lube the seal surface which makes contact with the crank.

[@general23cmp]

@@CliffsHowTo Not according to the instructions I saw. You aren’t supposed to lube the seals at all on the ones I have. They specifically say to not do that.

[@traviscarr6536]

Good video

[@keving1774]

I would have clean that backplate up as well as the engine block mounting location for that plate. That looked pretty dirty.

[@CliffsHowTo]

The whole engine is pretty gunked up. The plan is to just get it running with this motor, then build another with a little more power.

[@knifethrower9733]

Plastic ones are better 😉 they have a rubber o ring and don't scratch anything!!! Cheaper too !!!!

[@plastite]

anyone drill and ream for a couple dowel pins before removal of the cover?

[@GarageAlliance]

Who makes that tool?

[@CliffsHowTo]

+Garage Alliance I don't remember the name. I bought it on amazon.

[@kevintorcoletti3395]

can you please place a link from amazon to buy it?

[@theautoanswerman8063]

SacCityCorvette.com makes them

[@workinghandsautomotiveands4104]

Great vid I subbed to your channel

[@smms1276]

WELL DONE 👍 👍 SWEEET VID 🚹

[@christopherhendricks4369]

Curious which part you used? The Chevrolet performance pn 12639250 seems to be a good choice and it's an updated design with a new cover and 13mm head bolts vs the old 10 mm heads.

[@cannonball1395]

Fuck that i wouldve bought the rear main seal an a new cover all in the same backplate.

[@hdwrenchheadevans7227]

Next time use blue devil like i do, 10k times easier...ha ha lol

[@jamessarti5088]

What do you mean blue devil to press the seal in or something else

[@hdwrenchheadevans7227]

Blue devil is an oil additive to make the rear main seal expand back to original size so to speak. To slow down the leak or in light cases stop it. I have a video on it

[@TheGregd81]

It boggles me why there is no seal between the rear cover and the oil pan?

[@CliffsHowTo]

+Greg d Greg d the oil pan gasket creates the seal between those two surfaces.

[@hasanalzaabi]

If u open 1 f the covers the seal is getting weaker

[@iradmarquez6604]

Dirty surfaces and oil seal is installed the wrong way

[@CliffsHowTo]

Dirty yes, but how is the seal installed wrong?

[@anthonybeamon3276]

You can just mark it white out

[@robertbock409]

Wish my hands could move 100 x fast like that. My gf would love me 100 x more

[@lesbratton]

Should have spent the money on a speed handle.

[@Koua.L]

Every1 has there own way of replacing the rear main seal, y not install the seal while the cover is in your hand already out hahah...lolololo....other youtubers did it n they have no probs ....

[@CliffsHowTo]

Because then the cover isn’t centered on the crank, and you develop a leak. How do you know the other youtubers didn’t have to do the job again, 6 months later because it started leaking?

[@mochanic5498]

No reason to remove the rear cover to do a seal change! The gaskets RARELY ever leak and are best left alone.

[@meathead1011980]

Randy H. Unless you’re running boost and it blows out from the crankcase pressure lmao... ask me how I know lmao

[@lit549]

Why in the hell would you do all this work to NOT change it while your there??!!

[@smms1276]

HAHA YOU MUST CHANGE REAR COVER GASKET WHILE YOUR IN THERE... THEY ARE LEAKERS, THEY WILL START TO LEAK AT SOME POINT 👍

[@jarodmorris611]

Interesting that you keep the video of you talking but discard the video of you cleaning, snugging up bolts, etc. This video is helpful, but not as helpful as it could have been

[@CliffsHowTo]

So, in my opinion, the “talking”, is the important information I attempt to convey in my videos. Watching someone turn a wrench, is not important information, in my opinion. However, I have taken feedback, and my newer videos all have me turning the wrench in the video. Ask and you shall receive!

[@mdc1ful]

No gasket surface clean-up. bad news.