Lubitel 166 Universal: Punching Far Above its Weight.

[@DFermain]

You are totally correct, this is not a toy. It's a super camera. Thank you for posting this vid and setting the record straight.

[@Ces1um]

Have this camera. Love it as well. I gotta disagree about the flip up magnifier. I find it useful but you need to use it along an edge located on your subject to line up the split screen focusing.

[@ausgeknipst]

Great camera and tutorial. I just got one from my uncle for Christmas. He has come from Ukraine to visit us and as he knows I am into Vintage Cameras he bought me a Lubitel 166B. He got it from a old man that has bought it 30 years ago but never used it.

[@room111photography5]

Thanks for your kind words. Enjoy your visit with your uncle. Hope you make great memories with your camera. Merry Christmas and be well.

[@iwishiwasfreefalling]

Best video about Lubitel 166! Thank you so much, really useful :)

[@room111photography5]

Thank you very much for your kind words! Hoping you enjoy your Lubitel. Be well.

[@andrewlyonsmandolin]

Great video, love your shots. I just picked up a Lubitel 2 last week. I've had no problems focusing on the Lubitel 2 though, perhaps it's different? I hold it to my eye with the magnifier to focus the centre matte circle, then lower the camera to my waist to compose and shoot.

[@elierfernandezguerra]

I can't believe you took those photos with a lubitel 😲. I just bought one, and I'm eager to get it. I have seen some of your explanations to get good photos with this device in the comments, I will take notes ! . Thanks for sharing dude 👍, and nice review 👏👏👏

[@reading2495]

This video shows examples of photos taken with the original camera. "TLR Lubitel 2, Lubitel 166U cameras examples of black and white photos" Fomapan 100, D-76, Watch and be amazed!

[@davidsmithson9236]

I too really enjoy the '166. The mistake that I have made, is forgetting to remove the lens cap. Learn and live.

[@neilpiper9889]

Always use a double cap on a twin lens reflex

[@meghauw]

I have to disagree with you on the magnifier. Without it I can't focus at all, I really need it. But my eyes aren't very good, so that might be the reason.

[@Wakame-kun]

I started shooting film on this camera and i can say that when used right (steady and in good lighting), the results are stuning. Plus, i love the swirling bocket this lens has :) super cool effect. Yes it's plastic, yes it's kinda slow, yes it's not very easy to focus. But i still had a lot of fun shooting with it. Also it's great for double exposure ;)

[@KcLee677]

I bought USSR LOMO Lubitel Universal 166 with everything.. Sweet bundle for beginning photography.

[@newq]

I'm so sick of explaining to people that this camera is very much not in the same class as Holgas et al. It's not just a great intro to medium format. For many (most?) people, it's all the medium format you'll ever need. Not even kidding.

[@tvsuncanilijek7477]

Looks good,makes great pictures,it's cheap...I like your military photographs.

[@room111photography5]

Thanks again for your kindness. You choose words that build bridges. May God bless you for this.

[@sneekylinux]

Ahh, i still have my 166 from way back in the day(1980's) and it still works to this day, you will get used to the focus oddities in time mate..

[@Михаилматвеев-ы7ы]

просто нужно поменять экран , подойдут с алиэкспресс. внутренности нужно зачернить и вы получите гораздо качественную картинку.

[@LuisMuniz2]

Thanks for the focus trick

[@deejaesir]

Dope video! Going to try my first roll :]

[@room111photography5]

You're going to smash it. In a good way. 👍

[@andrewweis3028]

Thanks for a great video, but I think there is a ‘pink elephant in the room’ that was not discussed and that is, the shutter speed. What speed do you set it at? The speed of the film and not vary it, which would make some sense? Thanks for the feedback.

[@room111photography5]

Hello, Andrew. For E-6 slide/positive/transparency/chrome I shoot at box speed, never varying. For B&W or C-41 color I either shoot at box speed over overexpose by a stop. Since both of these are ASA 100 films and the aperture was f/16, that would give me a shutter of 1/125 at box speed. Since I do not want to go to 1/60 (too slow handheld) on the shutter for +1EV, I generally keep the shutter at 1/125 but open the aperture to f/11. If in shade, which isn't often, I adjust the aperture to f/5.6 or f/8, whichever my meter gives me, and generally stick with 1/125. Street photography is different, becoming shutter priority. If sunny, I choose 1/500 to eliminate any facial blur in the subjects and then go to f/8 on the aperture. It's all reciprocity, really. The only time I ever blew negatives beyond recovery was when I took my Nikon FM2n out of storage a couple of years ago. The internal meter was telling me I was underexposing so I opened the aperture too far. Common sense told me not to do it, because I was in sunny outdoors and the meter was telling me correct exposure was f/5.6 at 1/125. Like a knucklehead I "did what the camera told me" and overexposed by three stops (Sunny 16 is f/16 at 1/125 if using ASA 100). Could not recover in post. Sorry to go long, but this weak battery issue can become important to the discussion, as well as shutter and aperture, and let's not even mention older selenium meters that do not need a battery. Those 1950s meters will also throw you off by stops and stops. Always trust your Sekonic, Sunny 16, or a free app on your smartphone. Selenium light meters and weak internal camera batteries can throw you way off. I know this long answer went beyond the scope of the Lubitel, but I always try to help newcomers who might be looking at this reply. I never take anything for granted. Would rather go long, being inclusive, as opposed to going short and leaving somebody behind. Be well, sir. Shoot and make art.

[@matthaft2048]

When it got to your color photos I started thinking “man that looks a lot like main post on Ft. Bliss.” Then i saw the water tower lol.

[@room111photography5]

Greetings, Matt. Were you with 1AD?

[@matthaft2048]

@@room111photography5 I was! 3rd brigade 1-13 CAV 2011-2014. I think they reflagged to something else after I ETS’d though. We were at the very back end of Biggs

[@room111photography5]

@@matthaft2048 I think they might have been reflagged because I don't remember the unit. Not sure, though. I was there three years 2016, 17, 18 with the Mob and Demob mission for Guard and Reserve Soldiers. I loved Bliss. Awesome post. But I didn't like the senior leaders. As you know when an NCO makes E9 he stops being a Soldier and becomes a politician. Same with officers. When they make O6 they stop caring for Soldiers and think of nothing but their careers. The Army is toxic. I just retired after 35 years and I don't even recognize the Army anymore. It's a joke. The only reason anything was done about SPC Vanessa Guillen was the story hit the national news. If not for that it would still be business as usual. Be well, sir.

[@matthaft2048]

@@room111photography5 Ain’t that the truth…..BTW nice video on the camera, i stumbled on this cause i found what appears to be a good one on ebay and am thinking of buying it once my VA check hits on the first

[@room111photography5]

@@matthaft2048 It's a good camera but it has its limitations, as discussed in the video. BTW, thanks for your positive words. Really appreciate it. If you want a good camera that will have no issues, I would recommend the Yashica MAT 124G, a Rolleicord, or the Mamiya C220/C330 series of cameras. These are mid-level. The low end is the Seagull, Lubitel, Holga, and Flexaret. And the high end is the Rolleiflex. The low end is around the $50 - $100 range, the mid-level is around $350 - $450 or so, and the high-end TLRs are over $1,000. It all depends on the purpose of the camera. For me the Lubitel was for fun, walking around and taking casual images, but I didn't want the Holga toy look in my photos. I wanted serious photos, and the Lubitel delivered nicely. But for paid work or photos you desire to one day hang in a gallery or a museum, you will want to hit the mid level or the high-end cameras. If you're exploring the TLR and want a camera that can take awesome images, your choice of this Lubitel is fine.

[@scotthogan4974]

Hello, Just watched your video on this camera, I have the same model. It took me a while to figure out how to focus it, the correct way is to forget about how the Rollei type cameras focus Open and put magnifier in up position put the camera down around waist level this will eliminate the vignetting and allow you to get greater focussing with the fine grain in magnifier that's how it was intended to be used! move it up or down to get the fine grain in focus then focus image accordingly and Not up to your eye as with other waist level cameras you will not be able to get the fine grain to focus with eye right up to it. It will be spot on!! Try it you will see a big difference and easier to focus the camera. And yes I have Too many cameras!!!! You and I have many of the same Enjoy while film lives!!!!!

[@room111photography5]

Hello, Scott. Sadly mine is truly broken. I cannot focus the camera. Many older cameras have issues. Rangefinders usually have focus issues due to the coupling mechanism. Some cameras lose their metering abilities so Sunny 16 and reciprocity are needed. Even though the Lubitel is not a rangefinder the focus mechanism just died. It's okay. I just work around it. Thanks for your comment and be well.

[@EpicDubstepManiac]

​@@room111photography5 There is nothing to die actually, someone (most) probably removed the top lens and put it back without taking care of coupling it the same way, as they are interlocked with gears, instead of being on the same plane which shifts, there is a chance to get it working again, it would just need some tinkering, putting tape on the back to to see what is in focus, and trying to move the top one a bit to get them in sync again.

[@calinguga]

@@EpicDubstepManiac that is correct, focus should be checked on old tlrs and it can be adjusted by aligning the viewing and taking lenses properly

[@standupstraight9691]

would make more sense if the 6 x 4.5 mask was up the other way?

[@brineb58]

I bought mine the the 1990s to use for the Krappy Kamera Photo Contest ... I was surprised at how much better it was than a Holga and I decided it wasn't "Krappy" enough!!!

[@room111photography5]

That's funny. It's like being disqualified because your photo was too good.

[@Justmt6940]

Thank you for this review as I just got my Lubitel after 4 months of doubts...I feel like focusing is the hardest part. Did you shoot portaits on 1.3m with high aperture?

[@room111photography5]

Hi, Alex. Yes, focusing is very difficult. You best bet if focusing close is to choose a small aperture like f/16 or f/22. If you try to focus close with f/4.5, you are most likely going to miss focus, with a resulting blurry image. This camera is at its best when shooting objects far away at infinity focus, along with f/16 or f/22 aperture selection. The camera can't miss with this combination, and therefore produces excellent results. Be well.

[@Justmt6940]

I will keep the logbook of settings that I took and let you know how did it go. At first I wished to use it for portraits, but it seems that it will be re-purposed.

[@Mercsss111]

Hi great video I’ve just got the 166B should I use same f16 f22 on this version for focus thanks.

[@room111photography5]

Yes, I would. You buy yourself depth of field when by using a small aperture such as f/16 or f/22. It allows you a little more room for error if you miss focus. The best way to use it is to ensure your subject is far enough away to place the camera at infinity focus. Infinity focus + f/16 or f/22 = beautiful images. This is the camera's sweet spot.

[@room111photography5]

You should close the disc around the window to block light from entering the camera. You only open it when you advance to the next frame so you can see the numbers. Once you reach the next number, you should close it again. This way you minimize the chance of light entering the camera and ruining the film. By the way, when you advance the film, do it in shade. Never let the red window be exposed to direct sunlight. Once you close the disc, you can position the camera however you like.

[@qnetx]

Very impressive. Looks very compact compared to a Mamiya C-330 or Even the Yashica Mat124. Do you know if the lens is glass or plastic?

[@room111photography5]

Hello, qnetx. Yes, it is very compact, substantially smaller than the more well-known TLRs. It measures 120 mm top to bottom (viewfinder closed), 95 mm front to back (75 mm body + 20 mm taking-lens protrusion from body), and 95 mm side-to-side (80 mm body + another 15 mm for the protrusion of both take-up spool knobs). The lens is glass, which is why the images are actually quite usable for serious photography. It vignettes mildly, even at f/16, so I would hate to think what it does at f/4.5. But please keep in mind my main point: if users understand the limitations of the camera and exploit its strengths (taking images at focus of infinity with aperture at f/16 or f/22), then the camera is operating at its sweet spot and can yield beautiful photos.

[@jonlouis2582]

Nice presentation. I like your images too. The only issue with these cameras is if you like the Lomo look, the shots are too sharp and not enough light leaks. I love the look of the lens though at f/5.6, but as you say, risky. If you hit focus, loads of character. The bit about the numbers on the roll film was very interesting.

[@room111photography5]

Hello, Jon. Yes, I was mildly shocked at the image quality, expecting light leaks and such. Amazing camera for $30. Thanks for your comment. Be well.

[@m.acie.k]

I know its a bit late, but I have a question. I have a "Lubitel 166" no "B" no "Universal" and it's a bit different. My film rolling ring doesn't spin infinitely, it stops and forces to pull the shutter lever, also the camera lacks that small window on the back. So will it automatically take a proper amount of film for each shot? And how do I know when to start shooting when I don't have a preview window to check the film position?

[@room111photography5]

Greetings, M A C I E K. As you may know, 120 medium format is universal. It can be 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, 6x8, 6x9, and 6x17 panorama. In some of these TLRs, a mask could be used to make them either 6x4.5 or 6x6, which is why some had the red window, and the photographer advanced each frame by looking into the window for the next frame counter on the paper backing. On the other hand, some were fixed, as in your case, and it sounds as if it is a fixed 6x6. So just index each frame as if you were using a normal 35mm camera. As for where to begin the roll, I would also treat it like a 35mm in the absence of a user manual. Put the film in, close the back, advance and fire off two frames just to get past the part that was exposed to light, and treat the third frame as your first image frame. Just remember that if it is a fixed 6x6, you will have 12 images in your roll of film. Thanks for your question. Be well.

[@m.acie.k]

@@room111photography5 Thank you so much!

[@m.acie.k]

​@@room111photography5 Hiii, it's even later now:) But I finally got my hands on the first roll of medium format and some questions came along. I understand what you mean by treating it as 35 mm, but I imagine that not the entire roll is 'exposable', you have to roll it up to some point first right? Should I advance the film until I see some arrows, then close it, fire 2 shots, and shoot normally? Or will it just work straight away? I'm sorry if I'm confusing, it's hard to describe and I couldn't find any video with the same model as mine. I can provide some simple video of how my camera behaves if that was helpful.

[@room111photography5]

@@m.acie.k Keep sort of a journal when shooting: make simple notes in a notebook. Wind the film on. Start shooting at frame #1. For example if it is a red car make a note that frame 1 is a red car. Frame #2 might be a tall building and note that. Frame #3 might be a portrait. Let's say you get your film back and all exposures are accounted for then you know it truly starts at frame 1. If the red car is not on the returned film but the building is, then you know it starts at frame 2. Etc. Hope this helps. Be well.

[@m.acie.k]

@@room111photography5 ​ I will do that. Thank you once again! May I just ask whether I'm right about the film not being light-sensitive at its full length? I know that 35 mm is, but 120 doesn't seem so.

[@comfortablyblind6853]

All your photos were hand held? No tripod?

[@room111photography5]

Correct. No tripod.

[@comfortablyblind6853]

@@room111photography5 Cool! Think I'll get one. Watch for a video coming late this year. It'll take that long to get one from Ukraine. lol

[@rovasphoto5233]

What other lenses work with it?

[@calinguga]

the lens is not removable

[@shethatgirlll]

I am soooo gonna get one of these

[@suzanaurlich9170]

How to clean a lubitel 166 universal

[@neilpiper9889]

The Cooke triplet lens was designed in England way back and the 3 element lens on this camera would be based on that. Sharp Centre at f4.5 sharp all over from f8 to f16 Zeiss used a 4.5 copy of the Cooke prior to ww11 call the Triotar. Seagull 4bi has a 3.5 version on it. The Seagull can be focused properly but is more expensive than this Lubitel.

[@room111photography5]

Great info, Neil. Thank you very much. Wishing you well.

[@harrystevens3885]

I am baffled as to why you and others are struggling on how to use the focusing, I have no trouble using mine.

[@room111photography5]

Hello, Harry. Sorry for the delay I was not notified of your post. The answer is quite simple: the focus mechanism must be the Achilles Heel of this camera. Mine is broken and many others report theirs broken. On higher-end TLRs this is not an issue as the mechanisms generally work. I have many TLRs, and the only one with a defective focus is this one, but I still love it for its value. Be well.