Lubricating stiff outboard throttle and gear control cables

[@John-jc1ig]

Best marine repair and maintenance channel on YT.

[@andrewleigh3]

Hands down, there is nothing like it.

[@scottygodley9094]

This guy is a excellent instructor, explained everything very down to earth.

[@dallasmt2sea590]

Thank you so much for doing this video. This is why I love KZbin. I was going to spend $600 to have my cables changed out on my boat because I couldn't get it to go into reverse. I did this today it cost me $22 and it's fixed.

[@DangarMarine]

You’re welcome mate, glad it worked for you. 👍🏼

[@jstorres486]

What size hose you used?

[@barddzen]

@@jstorres486I just did this an used a 3/8” clear rubber tubing at local hardware store. I used a 45 rated psi tube, I’d suggest one rated a bit higher if you can find it, maybe 50-60 psi.

[@circularebin]

Sorry for replying to such an old video, but damn, that is another brilliant idea. I’ve replaced so many seized cables over the years. I can see this technique being applied to any coated cable. I really appreciate the instructional simplicity and effort you put into making your videos.

[@ramonbodie513]

instaBlaster.

[@n4leqonthego852]

I watched this video and I have to admit I was a little skeptical, not only did it work but it worked relatively quickly . I had one control cable that was stiff and one completely frozen and this technique WORKED. Not only did it free up the frozen cable but they are both now working great. This is the second time you saved me a lot of $$$$$ (the aluminum patch video) and I really appreciate you taking the time to share you knowledge. Thanks for the videos and I will keep watching the older ones to find more bits of wisdom.

[@DangarMarine]

Hey mate, glad the technique worked for you. Depending on the situation it won't work 100% of the time but it does have a high success rate. I first came across it from family business that had hireboats. They would do it as routine maintenance rather than a fix and their cables run forever.

[@Signature3D]

The steering cable on my boat almost seized and according to the manufacturer they are unserviceable. Well at over $300 and only 3 years old that's crap. This guys expertise is spot on - there are many amateurs showing you how to solve this problem and some are hopeless. This guy is spot on and the crazy thing is - he's just down the road from me. Thanks mate - great advice!!

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. Where are you?

[@flmanusa]

Great video. I had a completely seized up cable and used this method to solve the problem. I used a clear tubing which made it easier to check and refill the the WD-40 oil. I started with 70 PSI due to the heavy rust and ended up with 40 psi for deep slow cleaning. Thank you

[@DangarMarine]

Glad to hear you got your cable working again. Using clear tubing is a good idea to keep an eye on the oil level. Would have made a better video too. ;)

[@wg8847]

We. the public are extremely lucky you are willing to share your expertise...

[@peteshelby21]

So many people are using this method and showing on youtube way after you did. You have the best video and method hands down. Thanks bud

[@roberthowell3906]

Thank you Dangar, if I had seeing this video when I first got my vessel You would have save me a few headaches . You have given me knowledge which I’ll teach my kids and anyone else that will listen. So bottom of my heart Thank You Mate. Robert

[@barddzen]

I have been having this issue on my boat for a while now and began pricing out replacing the entire setup to include the cables. It’s a 1988 SeaRay and yeah, the cable and throttle are 35+ years old and it’s probably due for a replacement. However, nothing else is wrong with the engine, throttle, or mechanically broken. This video and solution cost me a few bucks in parts and now my shift handle, button, and cables are functioning with what I feel is normal tension without catching when I’d shift from FWD or REV. Appreciate the video. NOTE: My hardware store had 3/8 tubing rated at 45 psi, I ran the process at 40. If I have to do this again, I’d probably get a higher rated psi tubing and run it at 50 psi or maybe 60. At 30-40 psi, the process took about 2 hours to run multiple cycles of WD40 and oil and I had to move and “wiggle” the cable a bit to get the fluid moving. I feel like a slightly higher psi would have done the trick and made the process a bit easier and faster. I’d also use a syringe or devise a different way to fill the tubing. Taking the adapters off and on or trying to funnel or squirt the oil into the tubing through the air adapter was a huge hassle and at times made a mess. It worked, but there has to be an easier way to refill the tubing.

[@OrvilleHarmison]

I followed this link to here from your latest video, Jan 6th, 2020. Thank you so much for including it, I wasn't following your channel way back in 2014 and I would never have found it otherwise. I have 5 boats and all of them would cost a lot of money to replace the cables. They range from a 14 ft skiff to a 40 ft sailboat so you can see I have a lot of control cables. I am retired and boats are sorta of my hobby but I do have a somewhat limited budget to work with, so anytime I can save some money in one place I have that to spend somewhere else. BOAT: A hole in the water to pour money into! BOAT = Bring on another thousand! LOL and I am sure other truths I haven't heard yet. I find you viedo's so easy to follow and your explanations step by step very informative. Be sure that I will be recommending your channel to everyone. Thank You Orville

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate. I was originally shown this technique but a family that ran a fleet of small hire fishing boats. It must have saved them a fortune with about 40 cables to look after!

[@ajcaine]

The first one took a few hours to force the oil through, occasionally working the cable from the engine end. Pressurized with a valve stem and about 45cm of rubber hose. The second one was quicker using a nitto fitting instead of the valve so it was under constant pressure. Great technique!

[@yakksk6378]

Thanx for the video i had a seized cable and i tried your method after about 20mins works like new...saved myself 150 bucks cheers keep the videos coming

[@DangarMarine]

Good news. Glad to hear you had a win. :)

[@NairobiDino]

Dangar Stu, Thank you so much for this video. I have a restoration project of a Broom Speed Boat with a 350 Volvo Penta Outboard. I watched your video last night and went straight to the boat to give it a try. I took the control box and cables off and set up a rig using vise, a garden hose and a compressor that is part of a booster pack (to jump a dead battery)- it gave me about 60psi. Applied WD40 first and then oil as you advised and it worked like a charm. Within 1 hour I had both cables, which were completely seized, loose and able to move them freely by hand. You saved me the cost and hassle of trying to find the correct cables for this old beast and the joy of making something come back to life. You are a genius- God Bless you Dangar Stu!!

[@DangarMarine]

Dean Norby I'm glad it worked for you, but I certainly can't take credit for inventing the technique. I was given those hose adapters as a leaving present when I stopped working at a marina up the river. They've really come in handy ever since! Good luck with your restoration project, let me know if you post any videos of it. :)

[@Tony-ot4mh]

Thanks for the tip, watched lots of your other videos as well. So much good advise and well executed, no irritating music.......Thanks from South Africa, Mossel Bay

[@ve2vfd]

Just used that technique to lube an almost seized shift cable on a Mercury 3L Alpha One inboard and it worked perfectly! Will eventually need a new cable (which means removing the whole drive unit), but in the mean time it saved the rest of the boating season.

[@RobertSmith-xe6uq]

Love your channel. I grow up on the water but first time owning my own boat. Your channel has helped me a lot. Please keep the videos coming.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks, will do!

[@butterbean4195]

the best cable oil video on YT. ive used it two times with my cables. i found having different sizes of tubing around helps and using clear tubing is best so you can see how much oil your using. also i just use a portable air tank instead of tieing up my main compressor. and i use lucas engine treatment because it is thicker and will last longer... gday from america

[@ballantiner]

This actually works, did it right there on the boat without removing the cables. Thanks!

[@DangarMarine]

Hey Rob, glad you got your cables fixed up. It's an oldie but a goodie this technique. :)

[@buck3y3man1]

Great to see I don’t have to take the cables off completely I will be doing this tomorrow

[@Squirrel4242]

You are a legend mate! Helped me revive a 1957 mercury shift cable for my 1957 mercury Mark 55, this cable is no longer made. Add a pop up that says you prefer ATF fluid, as i had to sort through the comments to find the answer. cheers

[@DangarMarine]

Glad to hear you got your cable working again. I'll take a look at adding the popup.

[@hansslob6749]

8 years ago but today I could help someone with this, nice!

[@kevinpeagam6045]

Hello Stu, Thanks so much for the great tip. I ended up using some two stroke oil combined with de watering spray along with 50 psi air pressure to push it through from the helm end. Worked a treat after about 6 hours or so to restore a seized throttle cable on my Yamaha 60 outboard. I'll run some more oil through tomorrow as it seems to be more of a water / oil emulsion escaping the cable atm. Once more, thanks a heap and keep up the great work. Thrilled to bits about the success !!!!!

[@danmcginn772]

Love your Videos,i am using a lot of your ideas.I am In Nova Scotia ,Canada.Recently got my hands on an old 13.5ft Sun Ray Speed Boat,made in Quebec Canada.It had no Helm or steering cable.Not wanting to spend a fortune on a new one,I came across an old Helm and Cable set up....and when i say old,im talking 50s or 60s.Its the type where the cable has no exit,it only raps around on the inside.That being said,i hooked it up to the 1991 30hp Mariner that was on the boat and by god it moved the motor back n forth with the BRUT force of a 240 lb man,almost completely seized.So yesterday i watched this video,found the things that were compatible for my boat,to try your method.Holy Shit MATE!!!,It WORKED out.THANKS and Happy Boating in Austraila

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Dan, glad this worked for you. It's a great technique that I was shown many years ago and works most of the time, but unfortunately not always, so it is great to hear you had a win! :)

[@africanjew1596]

You’re the man dangar! Helping all us do it ourselfers!

[@bentackett6299]

Wow! Such a simple method. Brilliant! Thanks, I'll be lubing up my 58 year old cables this weekend. Probably clean first with WD-40 and or lighter fluid 🤔

[@DangarMarine]

A clean first is a good idea.

[@adamtomschuster]

Thanks, got my boat shifting like butter 👍

[@lesroberts2244]

Thank you, brilliant, no more new cables. Regards from Bangor North Wales UK

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Les!

[@davidelliott2948]

Your instructions worked perfectly. Thanks for taking the time and effort to help.

[@canarysol1]

Gracias por el curso de mecanica Nautica en general que haces 👍🏻. No entiendo muy bien el idioma pero como lo explicas no hace falta 😁 Sobre todo para novatos como yo 😬😅. Gracias y un saludo desde España 😉

[@ng4410]

saw a YT video doing same job. They added some powdered graphite to thin oil mix. To add to slipperiness.. Great videos . From Tassie. Doing this job on a boat I bought next week.

[@kijetikimavi]

Thank you man.. Helped me alot You will go to Heaven... Marine section of heaven...

[@DangarMarine]

Glad I could help

[@TheBarracuda]

Thanks for this video! I did mine earlier today while still in the boat, I didn't have any old oil/grease to push out but the fresh oil is in there now.

[@hstfk]

I am gonna do this in a moment now. And I am gonna leave the cables also in the boat. Only disconnect them at the gear/ throttle lever

[@TheBarracuda]

@@hstfk how did it go?

[@hstfk]

@@TheBarracuda It worked great. I put 3 atm/bar presure on the oil. It took the oil about one and a half hour to reach the other end at the engine. There is no reason to take the cable out of the boat for this

[@gregorythomas333]

Excellent video...works great! Just came from the video you released today (2020/01/06) and find that your clock is actually working fine here in the past :)

[@DangarMarine]

It had it's day in the sun!

[@Always1fisherman]

Rick from Texas: Works just as well today Oct.5,2021. Great videos!!

[@m4ini]

Thanks from cardiff mate, just bought our first boat, doing it basically from the ground up - this beats buying a new throttle cable by miles. Just have to get it running properly now to actually use the cable too. :D

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. Good luck with your new boat! :)

[@m4ini]

Cheers, we'll need it, hehe.

[@bishoyr3552]

Mate you are a legend! have helped me solve every problem I have encountered since I've bought my boat. keep up the good work

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate, glad the vids have been helping you. :)

[@damoog5985]

Excellent. It has inspired me to have a go at my throttle cable - right now with our Mercury 50 bigfoot we only get 2 speeds - slow, and then shudder into fast(ish). I don't have a compressor, so I was thinking of trying a foot pump (for tyres), or just leaving a funnel full of oil with some height to let gravity do its thing. Might take up the suggestion of using WD40 first - it's been a number of years since anyone has paid any attention to this cable.

[@DangarMarine]

I do have another version with a tire valve instead so you can use a foot pump. Both are fine, even gravity feed will work, just slowly.

[@fransoldman841]

Thank you once again for an insanely useful tip. God bless!

[@darcylytle7927]

I tried this trick. It takes lots of patience but does work.

[@beerturbogarage]

just got myself a boat, and the fwd controls seems a bit stiff....im going to give this a go & your other video about dissembling and cleaning fwd controls have been verry helpful....have actually just been watching all your videos of late, some really good advice, keep it up mate.

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate, this technique works wonders for most control cables. Sometimes they are too corroded for the oil to make its way along to the end, but it works more often than not.

[@Justin-kl7ec]

Your a star great video and also using the compressed air technique you can save a load of time by not removing the cables from the boat just disconnect at the control box end.

[@DangarMarine]

Yep, can definitely done with the cables in the boat.

[@wg8847]

Man i love your ideas!! You make my thoughts come to life..

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks mate.

[@plumbdownunder]

Fantastic thanks for that. My cables are very stiff so I will be giving this ago when I get to that part on my boat engine restoration.Thanks again.

[@DangarMarine]

No worries mate, hope it works for you.

[@MrJeffDemme]

Thank You Stu! I have been dealing with a stiff throttle cable on my starboard engine for a few years. It works, but takes muscle and its hard to get the revs to match the port engine which works well. I rigged this up with junk from my shop and forced some 10w40 through the cable. Now its easy and smooth. Zero cost! You are the best Stu and I really enjoy all of your videos.

[@tonywalker5402]

Another excellent video. Well done again.

[@ButchNackley]

I need to do this to my cars shift cables. Thanks for sharing your method.

[@TitanIV_Pad_Rat]

Love your channel! Watch all the time. You have saved me so much money! Going to make a donation. Another awesome video. I want to know who the kid is in the video?

[@docriordan7787]

Just fabricated that genius device and used it on my stick steer cable, saved over $200!

[@jstins]

Doc Riordan Hey Doc, what diameter is the hose?

[@docriordan7787]

@@jstins Its a 3/4 still not a perfect fit but using radiator clamp and tie straps I had no leaks also I did not add more than 65 psi to the hose. I sacrificed a Syphon - 3/4" Self Priming Siphon Hose a to make the device, good luck!

[@cadillacescalade1]

I took me 3 days to unseize my steering cable oj jet boat under 40 psi continuous pressure using wd 40 Fast Degreaser . The Cable was not renmoved from boat . disconnected cable from helm side and attached it to hose like you did. 👍👍👍👍👍 It was sooooo slow bcz of mud inside cable housing

[@DangarMarine]

Hey mate, glad you got there in the end! :)

[@ryanwynn4441]

Dangar Stu - professional boat mechanic that thousands look to for advice searches everywhere to find a screwdriver making the average Joe realize they're not the only ones who do that. :-)

[@GordonPettieFishing]

Thank you! Another you tube video that just saved me money and time!! IT WORKS!

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Gordon, glad you had a win with this technique. :)

[@tedsouers3383]

Awesome trick! I may be using this soon! Thanks Stu!

[@DangarMarine]

Welcome, hope it gets you good results. :)

[@lacewalls]

great video, I'm in Ft Lauderdale and am glad I found you !!!

[@wexcellence]

Thank you for the demo Dangar. I'm wondering if you think any particular type of oil would be better than another for protecting cables.

[@DangarMarine]

wexcellence I would use a light oil. I've had Automatic Transmission Fluid recommended to me for its ability to penetrate, but any light (5W or 10W) would do.

[@pavloskourris277]

Great video. Trying to lubricate my control cable using gravity (don't have a air compressor) and probably is why no oil is coming out the other end. I was told to use transmission oil, you are using regular oil. Which is best and should I try a thinner oil so it can travel easier? Will also try WD40 and then oil.

[@kadenelles6909]

Thanks for the vid, really helped with my old 70 evinrude.

[@benlyons5884]

Good idea. Thanks for the lesson.

[@potatoes1049]

Just did this to my throttle and shifter cables. Huge difference! Thanks a lot from the US!! Also, I used a CLP gun lube and it's been great so far.

[@DangarMarine]

Glad it worked for you, I have also found it helps a lot.

[@1tonkajoe]

Great idea. Thanks for the help Sir!

[@cadillacescalade1]

Excellent technique

[@DangarMarine]

+Qatari Man Thanks mate!

[@MethuselahMusic]

Nicely done. Can't wait to try this. Thanks!

[@tedturner5299]

Another excellent video. If no compressor is available will gravity be enough to push the lubricant through the line overnight?

[@DangarMarine]

It can do, but you can also just use a schrader valve and a normal bike tyre pump.

[@tedturner5299]

Good to know, thanks!!!

[@luke_fixed5266]

Having bought a new steering cable kit, I went to remove the old almost seized system. The helm unit and gearing was in OK condition and look better engineered than the Chinese one I'd bought. So I thought to try the "long" garden hose and schrader valve method, with the steering cable still in the boat. "Universal Car Truck TR43E Metal Clamp-in Tubeless Tyre Tire Wheel Schrader Valve" can be hose clamped straight into garden hose.. WD-40 followed by SAE30 oil. It took a few hours. Periodically pump the cable back up to pressure and heave the engine to the left and right extremities, you could feel the lubrication working. However, it's so free now, I can't drive hands free. Fantastic channel Stu.

[@scottgreene5379]

That's a great idea. I think I'll try that with my cables this winter.

[@DangarMarine]

I find it helps a lot about 90% of the time.

[@mitchcarey2018]

Awesome vid mate… I am not getting any air or wd40 coming through after about halfa…cactus cable?

[@bradshawtx]

Great video, can't wait to try this.

[@DangarMarine]

+Bradshaw TX Thanks mate. It's a great technique. Some cables it can't help but there are many it will make as good as new.

[@sherriegrimes4975]

super solution to a very difficult task--Mike G

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Mike. :)

[@cabledog]

Great tutorials, keep them coming. What would be the best quick fix for a dirty carburetor to help get your boat motor through the season.

[@DangarMarine]

If you aren't keen to take them off and clean them properly, I would start by taking the drain plugs out of the bowls and then squeezing the primer bulb for a while to flush any rubbish out of them. I would then just add some carburettor cleaner to the fuel. You can also spray some carb cleaner directly into the mixture screw holes, but you need to recorder their settings before removing.

[@narleyburritos2823]

Thanks for the video! I'll be doing this tomorrow

[@westhurman2819]

Definitely going to try this. I'm even considering trying this on my steering cable. I have a narrow boat and the last time disconnected the steering cable, I had to remove the motor from the transom. Hopefully I won't have to do that this time.

[@DangarMarine]

Hope it works for you! :)

[@Mrrightgetoverit]

Great video! Just wondering the process without the compressor? You said something about a plastic bag? Lol I have a little compressor but I dont have the fittings to rig up that hose your using

[@DangarMarine]

Yes you can just tape a bag around the outside of the cable, fill it with oil and hang the cable off a balcony and let gravity do the work.

[@texascoastwandererkayakfis672]

Dangar Marine Greetings from Texas !! I did this tip n my cables are smooth as silk now.. thank you But I need ur opinion please as to what part might b failing me on this shifter on my 1976 Evinrude 35 hp outboard 🙏🙏🙏. I am attaching link or you can just view my vid on my channel.. I’m at a loss.. thank you ! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nGfHnqJ8m9V5lcU

[@rollyandrew]

This really works, saves you a good $100.00 from purchasing new cables

[@pkoerner6]

Would there be any problem with leaving the cable in the boat, and just disconnecting each end?

[@DangarMarine]

No, nothing wrong with doing it that way.

[@mckavity]

Excellent info. How large diameter is the hose ? Also, can you for see any issues doing this to cables already mounted in the boat ?

[@DangarMarine]

Just regular garden house. Yes, can do it with the cables still in the boat, just disconnect one end.

[@officialWWM]

Awesome. I assume you need some kind of high pressure hose?

[@DangarMarine]

No, I just used normal garden hose. You can run the pressure quite low and just leave it overnight.

[@officialWWM]

Dangar Marine great, thank you :) I'm restoring a 1970 Hartley Vixen with my 8 year old son and your videos have been invaluable!

[@sambar_slayer]

Great video stu I'm going to try this technique this week and hopefully I won't need to replace the cable was going to ask what oil should I use ???

[@sambar_slayer]

Great video stu I will try this technique this week hoping it will work so I won't need to replace it what sort of oil should I use ???

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks Nick. You can use just about any oil 5W-30, ATF are good.

[@slimeball23]

Thanks from Florida !

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome. I went to Florida on a holiday once. Great place! :)

[@terrymoore4786]

Awesome, Great video

[@DangarMarine]

Thanks!

[@fartherstill]

Great help guy. Thanks!

[@doczepi]

Did exactly the same..very good idea with the gardenhose..also had a coffee.lol...but now i wanted to put everything together but i got issues withthe correct "timing".here is what i did,btw its a yamaha 40hp 1986: put control stick in neutral as well as on the engine.attached the cable BUT there is some "play" in the cable,maybe 10mm when i pull it out or push back.question would be: doi have to pull the cable OUT before attaching it again or in?thanks dude.enjoy your next coffee..greetz from adelaide

[@DangarMarine]

doczepi Hi mate. The cable should be a fixed length end to end. By play, do you mean it the other doesn't move at all until the control end has moved 10mm or it doesn't go into gear for 10mm? As the cables have a locking grove around each end, the two ends of the outer housing are fixing in position and then you just move the cable until it lines up with the pins on the throttle control and at the outboard end. If they are not matching up then you need to twist the ends to lengthen or shorten the cable as required. Let me know if I'm missing what you are saying. By the way, I grew up in Adelaide then moved to Sydney part way through high school. :)

[@doczepi]

Gotit..just some fine adjustements now with my carby cable.doesnt go back to the idle position-sort of same issue with shift cable i guess..you should come back to adelaide and teach me..lollove your videos.btw. My yamaha 40hp 1986 needs some gasket replacements.any ideas what the torque specs are for the bolts for waterpump housing?

[@DangarMarine]

I'd have to check my service manual, but to be honest I don't recall there being torque specs for the housing. I generally just snug them up and then give them another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Thinking about it now I think the manual calls for loctite rather than a torque spec. I'll get back to you. Or watch my vid on changing an impeller. ;)

[@doczepi]

NEW issue..oh no it drives me nuts..lol.my little 4hp yamaha 1984 was leaking petrol out of carby when i tried to start it(obviously a float issue).took it apart and spottet the arm between carby float and the needle was bend and didnt move really.now i dont know which way to bend it so the needle got the right adjustment.have you maybe got a close picture to look at it so i can bend it back where it should be.and send it via email([e-mail]).

[@geoffmeurk8821]

Hi Stu I have an auxiliary DT8 Suzuki Outboard I use when trolling for trout at Lake Taupo. My main outboard is a Mariner 90. I am going to install a temporary connecting arm between the 2 outboards for steering while trolling only. I would also like to install a remote control to the DT8 so I can operate the speed from the helm also. Have you already got a video on that or any comments you would like to make?

[@DangarMarine]

I haven't done a video on adding forward controls to a motor, but I am planning to do one soon. Really it is just a matter of getting the parts and swapping them over. With regards to linking the steering I would just take your clues from the way catamarans are setup with twin outboards.

[@masterpainter12]

Thanks for the reply. I have a rack on mine. If they will pull out I will give that a try. Thank you again. Great Videos

[@richarddowner4292]

I thumbs up, and subbed. This will help me a lot. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. Saved me a lot of $$$$

[@Kraziken0]

Would there be anything wrong with just leaving the the back end of the cable connected to the outboard motor while doing this? I figure put a rag under neath to catch the sludge.

[@DangarMarine]

No, that's fine. It would hurt anything to do it that way.

[@DangarMarine]

Sorry, meant wouldn't.

[@cloudk2030]

You’re a good wrench m8

[@ianr5978]

Great video... just did the cable off my Honda 50.. smooth as a babys bum now.. so thanks for the informative video.. I would like to shorten some Honda electric cables ( the ones with fitted Honda plugs) RPM, Ign module etc... there are about 6 feet of coiled cable in my console, I would like to tidy it by cutting off the excess, is this possible do you think, and how would you go about tackling this... Regards.. Ian

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Ian. I would open the forward control and disconnect all the bullet connectors. You should be able to cut the cable and then put new bullet connectors on each of the wires then re-connect them.

[@michaelvangrondelle5916]

Thanks from Canada on all your great videos. They have helped greatly!! I have a Honda 40hp on my pontoon and when the engine is at operational temp and I put it in neutral the revs go up from about 800rpm to 2500rpm without touching the throttle cable. Is this a stuck cable or possibly a vacuum leak? Advice or a video on this problem would be great.

[@ct026]

Awesome tip.

[@DangarMarine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scottd3532]

Did u do a video for the plastic bag method?

[@ManuelHernandez-iz1jb]

Awesome video man! I sort of "inherited" a 1979 Sea Ray SRV 192 with a Mercruiser 470 and after taking it out to the lake, once, everything seemed fine. Then when checking it out 4 months later before planning another trip to the lake I noticed the shifter was not moving the throttle lever. After finally getting the shifter off, I noticed the control cable was not connected to the shifter. So I looked around for the pin and found it in a cup holder below the shifter. I put it back together and appears to work fine now. But I can't help wondering, what if the pin were to come out again while I was out on the water? I know I would be able to manually move the throttle lever worst case. And take tools aboard for repair. Do you have any ideas why the pin came out? Now that I think about it, it could have been when manually pushing the throttle lever with the cable still connected and moving the shifter at the same time this could have move things out of alignment maybe popped the pin out? The cable did take a very strong push/pull to move so maybe it is seizing up... I think I'm going to buy an air compressor so I can perform this cable maintenance (and keep the trailer tires up to 40 psi). I'm sorry I rambled on. Any thoughts?

[@DangarMarine]

+Manuel Hernandez Hi Manuel. Still cables will definitely put extra pressure on the end that is being pushed from, but most pins will be locked in my some means: a circlip, a cotter pin etc. Can you see another pin to compare it to? Maybe the housing where the pin goes through is worn too. Compressors are great. A simple air gun to blow away debris is worth the price of admission alone!

[@ManuelHernandez-iz1jb]

+Dangar Marine I checked the shift cable and I saw the same type of pin there. I don't think I saw a cotter pin but I will double check when I take it apart again to perform the maintenance. If it is supposed to have a pin then I want one on there. Thanks so much! As a new boat owner I feel your videos are awesome! By the way, I already ordered an air compressor on Amazon.

[@DangarMarine]

Nice one. I hope the boat gives you years of enjoyment and I'm glad the videos help. :)

[@barddzen]

In my case, there is a pin on a small plate and the plate has another hole that goes over a threaded bolt where the pinned plate fastens. If yours is similar, I’d say you are missing a nut that fastens the pinned plate to the bolt to keep it in place. if not a nut, maybe a cotter pin or other method to keep the pinned plate in place.

[@cadillacescalade1]

Hi and greeting to you and charly. Which is better? Injecting synthetic oil inside the cable long or inject a molten wax? Or liquid wax? Thks

[@tyronebartell4284]

Hi Stuff. love all of the tips you providers with. can you please give me some advice. I have a 1984 Yammi 30hp. The top gear shifter rod had corroded off the lever. Is this a big job to reattach? I have been told that the powered needs to be removed.

[@DangarMarine]

I'm not familiar with that year model, can you post a photo of the problem and send a link to it?

[@masterpainter12]

Watched your video and it is great method. My question is on some steering cables, do I have to remove cables from rack under dash or can I just push oil through from motor end leaving cables connected to rack.

[@DangarMarine]

+masterpainter12 You can leave the cable connected, it won't really hurt anything that much, but given those helms are quick disconnect I would almost be inclined to pull the locking pin, wind the cable out of the helm and push the oil in from the steering wheel end as you don't have the push rod to get past with the hose.

[@FlukeTog]

Brilliant. Thanks again

[@DangarMarine]

Welcome. :)

[@brianofarrell1149]

Stu love the video and it is a great technique. Tried it today but unfortunately it didn't work so well. I left the cables on the boat and pushed the oil from the engine to the binnacle (shifter). When I put the cables back together it was extremely stiff and hard to shift. I am wondering if it is because I used the wrong type of oil. I used 3 in 1 multi purpose oil. Should I do it again with a different oil? Also is it possible that I left the pressure on too long and pushed all the oil through the cable and it has no lubricant in the the cable any longer? Any advice you could offer would be great. Thanks

[@DangarMarine]

Hi Brian, I would have thought 3 in 1 would be a good choice, but you could try put some standard 10W 30 or something in and as you say, stop pushing it through as soon as it reaches the other end. Is it stiff to move the controls while the cables are disconnected from the outboard? Once they are oiled you should be able to disconnect them from both ends and push them by hand pretty easily. This will help you make sure the problem is in fact the cables and not the forward control of the linkages in the outboard itself causing the stiffness.

[@jrz7325]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing.

[@DangarMarine]

You're welcome Jim. :)

[@ringerdiggsycobbsy6254]

Thanks for the advice mate I'm going to do mine right now

[@daryl7909]

gday stu i just seen a thing on ebay called a cable luber so cos there cheap i bought one to see if it does a similar job have you seen them before cheers daryl

[@DangarMarine]

No haven't seen one of those before, I'll check it out.

[@daryl7909]

Dangar Marine it's called a cable luber

[@noiseythunder9151]

May I suggest using diesel fuel to pour in and lube the cable. Diesel is lubricant and it also has a low viscosity and can penetrate into gaps very well.

[@davecavanaugh66]

Great video - what size (diameter) hose did you use? Was is standard 3/8” air hose or 1/4” or bigger?

[@DangarMarine]

From memory it was just standard garden hose.