M157 M278 turbo cooling lines - Mercedes Benz AMG

[@quiggybug5653]

Great Information, thanks. 2014 CLS 63 M157 (80,596 Kms), the left turbo coolant plastic lines were extremely difficult to remove from both the water pump and the turbo charger. These typically break at the water pump even with extreme caution since thermal stresses fatigue plastic. On the turbo charger you can hardly see this bolt and can only imagine what it would be like to re-install the bolt and line up the two coolant lines at the same time with the bolt hole trying to get this bolt in. I removed the drivers tire and inner fender cover, then drill a 1/2" hole through the frame directly where the bolt head sits at in the engine. You can now see this bolt easily for removal with 1/4" drive ratchet and easy line up of coolant line bolt holes when installing. Installed a bit of grease and a rubber plug in frame afterwards to prevent any corrosion. There is no reduction in frame integrity with this method and saves so much time and frustration. Another item that typically breaks is the 3 clips inside thermostat housing that hold the thermostat in place due to thermal stress on cheap plastics used for coolant system parts. You then need to replace the whole housing

[@EurochargedBoston]

What you drilled through is the main frame. Its never a good idea to do that in case of accident, as you introduced an unintended way for the frame to buckle. Worse, you created a structural rust source. The rubber plug is useless.

[@akinbode2298]

Sir you are correct, other option would be to drop the power train all together from the bottom.

[@maviblue1168]

Very good and informative. Thank you for sharing. I wish you would also showed disassemble procedure.

[@EurochargedBoston]

the job is very labor intensive, and not exactly a youtube DIY subject. you're better off with a shop doing it for you.

[@maviblue1168]

@@EurochargedBoston Thank you. You said you were going to give part numbers but I cannot see in description?

[@EurochargedBoston]

@@maviblue1168 turned out its too simplified. There are several versions of them, and should be ordered by VIN only.

[@anthonywilliams4100]

Did mine about 2 years ago on my 2014 S550 sedan along with the WP, I changed all of them. I now have a 2015 S63 coupe and already have all the parts for the job on hand when the job is necessary. MB could've used hard lines to braided for flex. Plastic in any engine bay in for such an unforgiving task as coolant movement is designed in failure.

[@mikimiki195]

Well I got leak outer day I started last night everything was pretty much straight forward but getting lines out of turbo housing is Bi#%😊. I still don’t have them out it started to get late last night plus I’m in no rush I don’t have new lines in yet but it’s crazy hard to get them out. This video help me a lot just to visualize whole thing because you can’t see much. Thanks for making this video 👍🏻

[@hoisassa]

Thanks for great information. Mine failed at ski resort with 2m of snow around me.

[@EurochargedBoston]

these things always happen at the worst time possible

[@carminesilano8319]

yep, coolant line blew at the plastic clip, overheated the engine, melted the gaskets. all fixed now, but what a pain.

[@EurochargedBoston]

when the dash shows yellow warning for low coolant while driving, driver should pull over and turn the engine off, immediately. The car wont make it home. Its a serious message and should never ever be ignored.

[@carminesilano8319]

@@EurochargedBoston For sure. As I turned out of my driveway, my powerssteering was intermittently slipping, so I was distracted thinking about what could cause that. I was not even 2 miles from the house and the temp hit the yellow warning, then the red warning nearly instantly. Gauge was pegged past the red zone :( Pulled over immediately, but man, that cooked fast. Power steering was lost because the coolant hose was spraying on the belt. Thx for quick reply.

[@huracanian3051]

What about that metal screw that's in that one line that goes to the hose? Is that a check valve? Like how do you set that? You just make it to it snug? Is there a torque? I've been looking it up for like 2 days now 😂

[@H.S.H.M.]

Very good information. Thank you

[@E39M5SPEED]

Buddy it has nothing to do with weight savings and it has nothing to do with clearance of room. If you look at the aluminum pipes that come before they’re actually center and skinnier than the plastic parts they connect to. The only reason this was done by Mercedes engineers was when these cars go out of warranty. This is a great job for the service department to make a quick couple thousand dollars from the customer in replacing these pipes.

[@EurochargedBoston]

yep, thats 100% it. KZbin commentators know best

[@E39M5SPEED]

@@EurochargedBoston iv Done this job probably 10x more then you.

[@EurochargedBoston]

@@E39M5SPEED you want a cookie?

[@jrm163]

Seems every car manufacturer designes some such small (but could be fatal sometimes) failures to “feed” their dealers and mechanics! What a great “food” chain! It’s well planned! Either planned obsolescence or planned “feeding”!

[@paulaven2021]

Did I miss something? My M278 has an entire separate cooling system with reservoir for the turbos.

[@juniordace1347]

Was the water pump still good so you only had to replace the coolant lines? Is that for w222 s550? I think I have the issue on my 2014.

[@EurochargedBoston]

The water pump was leaking. However, when dealing with car with unknown history, a bore camera is your best friend to find out where the leak is coming from before you order parts. Generally speaking if you need to take the pump out, the lines will break and will not survive removal.

[@juniordace1347]

@@EurochargedBoston got it, so you replaced the water pump and the lines basically too? Did you have to replace all 3 coolant lines? Do you have an email I can reach out to and I can send you my vin to see if the parts are the same?

[@HMINawar]

Good detailed explanation 🎉

[@EurochargedBoston]

Glad you liked it

[@austingtir]

Looks doable to me to make the plastic connections at the waterpump end out of alloy with thicker wall than normal alloy hard pipes coming out till the end of that turn and then use normal high temp rubber hose crimped on from there to give it some movement allowance. Would save doing this again in another 10 or less years.

[@EurochargedBoston]

Thats kinda how the factory pipe is. The problem is not the molded pipe snapping in the middle, but it always snaps at the crimped ends. 10 years of heat cycling is a lot for rubber and plastic. It can be made stronger, but nothing will last forever

[@demarcoboy1]

You have the part number for the 3 coolant lines?

[@EurochargedBoston]

They need pulled by vin.

[@boyb72]

Having a heat sleeve over those plastic pipes help for longevity maybe?

[@EurochargedBoston]

In theory, probably, but its easier said than done, there is not enough clearance between the block and blanket to wrap properly. But a sleeve like whats used in M177 turbo cooling and oil lines is what you're thinking of... You may be on to something

[@boyb72]

At what mileage do these tends to fail at? Im in california. About how many hours to do a job like this? Also how long do waterpumps last as well? So for the right passenger side lines no need to do them?

[@EurochargedBoston]

about 80-100k is when you start seeing these issues on average, but the issue is brittle plastic, so age is also a factor.

[@babak4999]

Thank you for the video. I am doing the same job on my 2014 E63, but I am stuck at connecting new cooling lines to the turbo on the driver's side Any recommendations on how to fish the line to the turbo? I have heard some people say the A/C compressor has to be dropped, which I am not able to do. I appreciate any help you can provide.

[@EurochargedBoston]

the two lines are fully exposed for the entire run. just take off two brackets that hold the lines to block and they come off, there is nothing to fish.

[@babak4999]

@@EurochargedBoston thank you for your response. By fishing, I am referring to getting the turbo side of the cooling line passed between the turbo housing and the chassis. It's just a very tight space.

[@EurochargedBoston]

The room in there is very tight to get the bolt out, you need low profile rachet. However if you have no room for the line tip to be pulled out and new ones inserter, you likely have blown engine mounts and engine is not sitting where it need to be @@babak4999

[@babak4999]

@@EurochargedBoston, that makes a lot of sense, considering that car has 60K miles. Thanks so much for your guidance. I need to take it to a shop to replace the mounts and finish the rest of the car. I wish I was still in Boston to bring the car to your shop. If you know a trusted mechanic in San Diego, please let me know :)

[@babak4999]

@@EurochargedBoston@EurochargedBoston, would it be possible to raise the engine a bit with a Jack to create more space for the lines? If so, how do you recommend doing so? Thanks again.

[@Mr.AMGZUS]

Is it necessary to replace the water pump if it's not leaking when im replacing all 3 coolant lines?

[@EurochargedBoston]

Not at all, it break fix approach for the water pump; only replace it if broken. However, the other way around, if the water pump is leaking and needs replaced, the lined are very unlikely to survive the job.

[@illyapalamarchuk3525]

My serpentine belt was rubbing against the damn plastic line because some idiot decided they didn’t want to bolt the lines to the block now I have to deal with this bs. I started took me 30 minutes until my torx bit won’t clearance with ratchet to fan need to go get a smaller bit and try again.

[@EurochargedBoston]

I tell my staff all the time, and I relay it verbatim as I got it from my mentor in Engineering school: "a single bolt on the production line will cost between $10000 to $1000000 on average over 7 years production span, between engineering, material, and labor to turn it. Rest assured if the car functioned without it, the factory would have been more than happy to omit it. DONT DELETE HARDWARE BECAUSE YOU DONT UNDERSTAND ITS PURPOSE"

[@joejoe-q1h]

@bayhas kana what would you say the mileage / years of age would be ideal to just replace rather than wait?

[@EurochargedBoston]

when they get brittle or leak

[@BrianErwin]

i've seen anywhere between 60k-80k as a good time to do this job, but you could luck out with some that just last, so maybe no need to be proactive

[@Kidmayham]

Hey can you put the parts numbers for those 3 lines please

[@Kidmayham]

WDDHF7GB1EB053826

[@EurochargedBoston]

Part number varies by model and vin and revisions, that's why we didn't include it in the video so we don't spread wrong information. Part number can be provided with VIN to our customers, or the dealer can look them up for free when the parts are ordered.

[@MercedesE63S-AMG]

Trust me they could have put a nipple on the water pump & a form shaped hose on there with a regular hose clamp on it. That would have cleared everything too. Someone should make an aftermarket kit to fix all of those plastic hoses. They would make a fortune. I'm having a coolant leak on the top of my left frame rail. I can not figure out where that is coming from. 🤷

[@EurochargedBoston]

We tried and didnt last longer than stock. In fact it lasted 2-3k miles, and nobody will make a fortune from 70 bucks hose. Conditions are brutal in there and we're lucky the stock ones last 60K+, the hoses need improved at OE level with proper engineering study.

[@damytzeus]

@@EurochargedBoston what about making the hoses from silicone? silicone hoses?

[@EurochargedBoston]

needs to be shaped and molded to clear components and not rub against them, pulleys and belt in particular, once you make them rigid, we're back to square one and they will dry rot 10 years later@@damytzeus

[@damytzeus]

@@EurochargedBostonthank you for info. it sounds like it would require a complete redesign of the engine to rethink hose routing, allowing for more durable hoses.

[@damytzeus]

@@EurochargedBostonalso, it sounds like the plastic hoses are failing much fewer than 10 years?

[@mikimiki195]

Can you just use heat gun on front and slip hose off and just replace plastic part so you don’t have to take off AC compressor

[@EurochargedBoston]

You cant, its a lot more flimsy than that, and the entire hose end is plastic and needs replaced.

[@illyapalamarchuk3525]

Why do you have to take off ac compressor?

[@EurochargedBoston]

@@illyapalamarchuk3525 you dont

[@MrDukowski]

Where does the return coolant goes?

[@EurochargedBoston]

The radiator. They go out of the pump, into turbos, and back to be cooled in the radiator

[@mizterblicky5569]

Where are the part number i have a 2012 s550

[@EurochargedBoston]

the dealer selling you the parts will look it up by vin.

[@mysandrute]

Part numbers?

[@EurochargedBoston]

contact us @eurochargedboston to lookup the car by vin for you

[@user-ez7mf]

I was told that, in m157 engine turbos have its radiator that is separated from the main radiator, and I want to know if it is true or not?

[@EurochargedBoston]

incorrect. The Aux heat exchanger (radiator) is to cool air charge in the low temp cooling circuit, not the turbo cartridges. Turbo cartridges are cooled through the main coolant circuit as shown in this video.

[@AnontheGOAT]

Where’s the weep hole on this water pump?

[@EurochargedBoston]

bottom of the assembly, its a piece of the assembly that slides in (interference fit). The bearing leaks at the neck when it fails and pump is not intended to be rebuilt, so it doesnt have a weep hope in the sense of conventional weep hole we all know

[@AnontheGOAT]

Ok so here’s my question. I have a new pump, t stat, and coolant lines on the way. Prolly will be here in a week or two. I can tell the pulley on the current one is moving out because the belt is no longer centered. Like one rib is hanging off. I can tell it’s been like this for a while. Is failure imminent? Like would I be safe to keep driving for a few more days until my parts show up? Or will the pulley keep moving out and thus end up with the belt slipping off?

[@EurochargedBoston]

@@AnontheGOAT check your idle pulleys as well. the less you drive it the better if you lost a rib already. if the belt fails stop immediately and tow it. engine will fail and overheat with no belt

[@AnontheGOAT]

@@EurochargedBoston I didn’t lose a rib. The belt is 100% good. I’m saying that I can feel one rib of the belt is hanging off of the back of the wp pulley. The belt is centered over all of the other pulleys except for that one. The wp pulley is close to touching the plastic coolant line in front of it. But here’s the kicker, when I move the tensioner to loosen the belt whilst checking for play - I can’t get the wp pulley to move in and out, or wobble side to side. Also when I turn it by hand, it doesn’t make any noise. But it’s definitely failed because the leak is coming from the bearing. If you don’t mind taking a quick look to better understand what is going on, I posted pictures on mbworld w212 e63 sub forum - thread titled “ugh, coolant leak”.

[@EurochargedBoston]

@@AnontheGOAT I wouldnt drive that car until fixed, its likely to breakdown soon. if you have to drive it, do it for short trips during the day, so towing wont cost a fortune.

[@jrm163]

I guarantee you that aluminum pipes have much more flexibility than the stupid plastic/glass pipes! It’s DESIGNED TO FAIL by Benz for whatever reasons!

[@EurochargedBoston]

those evil engineers ROFL

[@frankrobinson4917]

😆 【ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ】