M8 121" Clutch Adjustment on a '23 CVO

[@Bamlydean]

Oh my gosh. Thank you soooo much. This worked for my 24 road glide. So frustrating how the service manual does not cover this

[@ITFZone]

Awesome! and agree!

[@cvo121]

Cannot waiting and so excited about another great and useful video. Keep going man. Very happy with your channel. You give me confidence and really learn from you

[@ITFZone]

Really appreciate the comment, I for sure remember my first Harley and not wanting to mess with it but as I learned you are really missing out by not doing so. Especially in the winter months I can get as much satisfaction on doing the maintenance as ridding it!

[@DuffyOne-m5b]

Thanks for the vlog. It helped out a lot. After 1000 mile service clutch engaged too far out. Almost the end. First adjustment it was too close to the grip ( 1 full turn). It felt right for me at 3/4 turn. Thanks again.

[@ITFZone]

Excellent! Adjusting your clutch is well worth the effort!

[@kmeades43]

Really appreciate the time you take to make these videos. Super detailed.. So helpful 👍👍

[@ITFZone]

You are most welcome, appreciate your support of the channel!

[@lancmac]

Glad I watched.. I feel like I did a dry run through. It will make my adjustment for the first time much easier. Thanx again

[@ITFZone]

Most welcome! Get it dialed in to your spec!

[@stefansgarage3014]

Thank You very much for spending the time to do the adjustment both ways.

[@ITFZone]

You bet! The key is to put just a little tension on the spring to get the sooner engagement. I found the full turn was nice a first for a wider friction zone but after the bike got warm it was really too soft. Half turn was a very aggressive engagement. Always great to have you in the comments, hope you are enjoying your new bike!

[@motorman857]

Excellent video. I ride a lot of new Harleys. I find the clutch grabs too far out for my tastes on most of them. On my 2022 Street Glide ST the cable is much easier to access. As soon as I got home I slid up the rubber boot, popped out the red clip and compressed the spring just a tiny bit. That let the clutch grab at the perfect spot for me and I never had to mess with the primary adjustment. My cable seemed to be a lot easier to compress than yours. Maybe if you turned the front wheel straight you'd have a little more play in your cable. Fatbaggers makes a much better adjuster than the stock unit.

[@ITFZone]

Hello! Honored to have you in the comments! The cable to me is too short on the new Road Glides but I continue to be happy with my adjustment. Truly appreciate the work you do!

[@Gpadellaro]

your videos are awesome! very helpful because of the clear explanation and examples, thank you!

[@ITFZone]

Appreciate your feedback and support!

[@billyjones3787]

Related but not related, I put a little silicone grease on each grommet of the shroud to make removal and install easier. The shroud comes off easier and it doesn’t put as much pressure on the plastic. I also do that to my side cover grommets.

[@ITFZone]

Agree, great tip!

[@johnmyers8588]

Was looking for this..... Thank you!

[@ITFZone]

Excellent glad you found it! My clutch continues to grab in the right spot, at least what is the right spot for me!

[@kevinblane3211]

Reminds me of my mouse trap clutch on my old 54 pan

[@ITFZone]

LOL! Some of the history still remains in these new bikes.

[@hammmernnails1504]

Thank you for the explanation & detail

[@ITFZone]

You are most welcome!

[@RichardLMogermanMD]

Thanks for the really great videos!! Being hunting season, I was rummaging through old rifle equipment, and I came across a trigger-pull scale/gauge, which may work well for the 4-pound pull and measurement (calibrated in pounds, lower weight then the luggage scale). Mine is a rather cheap manual model, and I see they have a variety of pricey digital ones on Amazon (I like Wheeler tools, and some have the perfect hook for clutch pull measurement). I'll try it soon...

[@ITFZone]

Yep I explored many options like fish scales, I wanted a “soft” hook that would not mar the black finish. I also have a daughter in college that tends to over fill a bag! Appreciate your support!

[@brucem8129]

Good job!

[@ITFZone]

Appreciate the support!

[@harryhowell5644]

Looks much like my 21 road glide limited. Easy adjustment once you get used to it. I have the lower fairing so its harder to get that plastic piece slid up.new bikes the cable will stretch and need adjustment sooner.😊

[@ITFZone]

Indeed it’s not too difficult, I am really pleased with the adjustments I ended up with.

[@flaviohdsgs297]

Awsome Thank You.. That was Great... Enjoy. 👌🇦🇺👌

[@ITFZone]

Appreciate your support! Thank you!

[@waterkoppie]

Well, the original description of the clutch play is pretty complicated, with the cardboard and force measurement story etc. It is sufficient to backup the clutch center adjustment screw only 1/6 turn of the allen key. This play is for the heat expansion indeed, but the play only gets bigger with a warm engine, so to the safer side, because the clutch pack expands to outside, away from the clutch push rod (of course do the adjustment with cold engine). You can check this difference on your lever play when cold or hot. By the way, this difference between hot and cold is eliminated or "self adjusted" continuously by a hydraulic clutch actuation (same principle as brake pad wear compensation). Then adjust the cable itself so that the lever has 1 or 2 mm (1.6 mm = 1/16 inch) free play to its stop (becomes 2 or 3 or 4 mm so 1/8 of an inch with warm engine depending on temperature). This then is cable and clutch center together. It you give the clutch center even a full turn, the cable adjustment after that can "eat up" this play partially already, possibly putting the 3 ball clutch actuator under lift and tension unnecessarily, and thus limiting its max throw (defined by the ball sizes). I am not a professional either (or at least not a Harley tech), so do not blame me :), but this way you make full use of the handle bar lever (and cable/actuator system) throw to fully disengage the clutch, as far as possible regarding the clutch pack/plate/spring flexibility. By the way, I never have to readjust the clutch center screw (just feel by finger, not unscrewing), indicating that my clutch plates do not wear (for example even not untill 91000 km / 56000 miles on my 1998 Evo when I sold it in 2013, nor 74000 km on 1994 Road King sold in 2001, and current 2013 Road King at 28000 km). So, this works very well for me, can be different for others. If you drag your clutch a lot however, you may need more center screw play to survive a service interval. Adjusted in this way (and using the clutch sensibly) my gear box rarely makes a sound when put (gently) in first gear, nor during shifting up or down when moving. And I think the Harley clutch is very nice to operate, it takes up the load very smoothly when released after shifting or riding away from a standstill. And I like how you are describing every aspect of your new CVO, thanks for this content !

[@ITFZone]

Truly appreciate you sharing here! Great information back to the community! Appreciate your support as well!

[@Sir-tuck]

You are a trail blazer! Thanks for the great detailed video. Do you take request, say......... how to take the the tank off?

[@ITFZone]

Ah good idea, I will add to the list.

[@adarngoodjoe4043]

That spring adjuster with the clip should be easy to collapse. You may not have had the clip fully released. It really does help to use a small flat blade to push the clip all the way out

[@ITFZone]

Yep this is my first bike with this clip. I actually removed the clip all together and it made no difference. I really think the clutch cable is not long enough on this bike. I may replace it with the option that John just posted on CycleFanatix, would be nice to be able to fine tune with a traditional threaded option. Thanks for your post!

[@qualuedtke]

@@ITFZone On my 24 RG, I too had the clip completely removed, and could barely compress the spring. I had my wife pull in clutch lever, the spring collapsed completely and I reinstalled the clip. It gave me a ton of free play. If you needed to remove the lever to lube, this tip might help.

[@ITFZone]

@@qualuedtke Agree good tip! I guess one could use a clamp to pull the lever in. Something I will try, thanks for sharing!

[@Green2011Leaf]

Difficult to collapse by hands, but I have found a way. After fully unclipped, press the clutch, while holding the clutch press the clip back in lock position, release the clutch. This will fully collapses the cable.

[@ITFZone]

You are correct, I discovered this as well and it makes sense pulling the cable naturally collapses it. I found if I just take the slack out of the lever I can then collapse it without as much effort and its a little easier with no helper handy. I am still tempted to just dump the stock adjuster however.

[@bryanmontgomery4050]

1/2 and 1 is only for heat. If you ride hard, go 1, if not 1/2. I just set mine at 3/4. And set the cable at a dime gap.

[@ITFZone]

Agree, but setting the gap that small seems to create a very late engagement at the lever. I have since gone even further out with the gap to get the early engagement. This “auto” clutch cable is not great!

[@philterranova8637]

Great content!

[@ITFZone]

Appreciate your support!

[@MikePoole-m4m]

i believe you may would be able to collapse that spring using the clutch lever once the clip is released

[@ITFZone]

Correct! Bit on these new bikes the cable is really not long enough, I was not able to collapse the cable all of the way.

[@qualuedtke]

@@ITFZone That trick worked well on my 24 RG.

[@UncleOldskool]

Took my 2024 Road Glide into Harley for the 1k and the clutch was perfect (friction zone started almost as soon as I released the clutch lever)…after the service, I have to almost let it completely out to get to the friction zone. Did they mess up or was my clutch not properly adjusted from the start? Either way, I don’t like it so going to try to make an adjustment. Thanks for the video!

[@ITFZone]

I wouldn't say they messed it up necessarily but I would say each Harley Tech has their own method for clutch adjustment and what is "normal" to them. When adjusting the clutch there are 2 factors that will impact how it feels. How far you turn out the hub adjustment, half to full and then the clutch cable adjustment itself. In the case of these new cables the spring is to set it for you but I have opted to compress mine just a bit to get a closer to the grip feel. As to full or half turn, this is difficult to recommend and will vary by clutch wear ect. I would try .5 turn first. If it bites too hard go further out, unfortunately you have to go through the whole process again to make this change.

[@UncleOldskool]

@@ITFZone Thanks! I think I will start with a small adjustment to the spring and see if that is enough..seems to be the easiest to try!

[@lancmac905]

I changed to a FatBaggers cable.... Lets you adjust the cable on threasds like the old way... Works much better and much easier.

[@ITFZone]

Yes I worked with another viewer with this same option, gives us back the range of adjustment without having to disassemble anything, like it should be! Harley should just back to the original design! This "Auto" adjuster is not an improvement.

[@PapaBiker]

Great!

[@ITFZone]

Appreciate your support of the channel!

[@denis9272]

🙏

[@stefansgarage3014]

I would enjoy it, if I didn’t have given it to Wilbers…😇 It looks like they are developing something worth the sacrifice, stock forksprings are only linear and pretty stiff.

[@ITFZone]

Oh my, but excited to see what they come up with!

[@Tonybfast]

Thanks. I’m Working on 23 Streetglide Sat and this adjustment is kicking my butt. When I compress the cable spring and try to push the clip back in to lock it in place it doesn’t lock the spring in place. Any idea?

[@ITFZone]

Hello! I have to assume the red clip is not aligned or possibly broke? Try rotating the yellow holder. Send me a picture or short video, [e-mail]

[@GMAN0444]

Great video and thank you for taking the time to help us out. But if harley stuck with the superior hydraulic clutch system instead of a inadequate 1930 clutch system we wouldn’t have this labor intensive procedure

[@ITFZone]

For sure I did not like the hydraulic clutch at first. But once you get used to where it grabs it was always the same. I was not a fan of changing the DOT 4 fluid however, just a personal task I don't like doing. Bit of a trade. I will say setting the cable just out of spec to get it to grab earlier has been really great for me.

[@GMAN0444]

@@ITFZone thanks for the reply and adjustment tip. When you were scoping the pistons, I did expect them to be a lot cleaner than that. Do you think HD’s less tension piston rings contributes to the buildup and oil consumption. My old 18 CVO would go through a litre (quart) every 1500 km (1000 miles) Harley says normal but I say it is not

[@ITFZone]

My '18 did the same. I have not noticed this yet on my '23. My understanding is with the M8 venting issues we are seeing the rings compromised more than the TwinCams. These new motors vent to the tranny now but I would say venting is still an issue.@@GMAN0444

[@cmdr.sypher1820]

I learned if you want to make something seem to complicated involve engineering. No one in their right mind would use decimal measurements to adjust a dang clutch cable. OMG just adjust the dang thing till it feels good to you and works. Please try and remember it was an engineer that did away with the simple little adjustment and lock ring on the handlebar lever itself. In this reliability specialist opinion the little plastic clip and spring is nice to make up for minor free play changes but just introduces another failure point. KISS - Keep it simple stupid. Great detailed video, hope you are not engineer...lol

[@ITFZone]

Love this comment and completely agree!

[@DC-sh8mr]

Squeeze clutch lever then lock in place to get freeplay.

[@ITFZone]

Ah good suggestion, I will try it