Digitizing Negatives feat. Nikon D850 and ES-2

A guide to digitizing and converting slides and negatives, using the Nikon D850 and ES-2 digitizing adapter.
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[@brucekraft744]

Thanks for this one, Maarten! I had just unpacked the ES-2 when I saw your post. For me, excellent timing.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I'm so glad to hear you found my video useful, thanks for your kind words.

[@mattslaboratory5996]

Those sure look better than any scans I've done with my cheap Epson film scanner. Good job Maarten. Thanks for the info.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, I appreciate your kind words.

[@richardhsu]

Thank you for sharing this. I have wondered how negatives gets digitized. Now I have some idea.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Experience is the best teacher ...

[@TonyPinto-jr6vw]

That was great! Thanks for sharing.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always nice to read that a viewer has enjoyed my videos, thanks!

[@unrealzocker]

Negative Lab Pro works best when you crop the image to the relevant size, in the newer version (released after the video was posted I think) you can set a border buffer, so for example 10% around the frame will be ignored. You'll get better images that way. Great video!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for adding this note.

[@Trish12303]

Thank you! This was very helpful!!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.

[@johnmurray2704]

Excellent presentation , I am going to purchase the ES and try it out . and see if I can get the quality I need for calendar work.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Ooohhhhh. (breath in). Best wishes for that. I'm pretty sure that it will not live up. Thanks for the kind words though.

[@skakdosmer]

I can see you’ve faced the same problems that I have had to deal with. The one piece of Nikon equipment I own, is the ES-1. I supplemented with similar products from Opteka (= Samyang, I believe) und König (which I suspect is less German than the name might lead you to think). And I experimented with different lenses mounted on my 70D. But in the end I too bought an 850! ...not the D850, though, but the V850: The Epson Perfection V850 Pro scanner. Somewhat expensive, but not nearly as costly as the Nikon D850. And it is so much easier to work with! The tray will hold many more negatives or slides, and the Pro version has a double set of trays so that you can prepare the next tray while the scanner is working.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Sounds like a good solution. Always nice to read your comments, and as always, my thanks.

[@bobcook231]

Thank You !! Very helpful ..

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Glad to hear you enjoyed it, and always nice to know I've helped.

[@Skidoo22]

A great video, thanks

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Your kind words are appreciated, thanks.

[@sandrasdcuocsongcanada9415]

Thanks for sharing. Happy Canada Day.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always my pleasure, and a Happy Canada Day to you also, I appreciate the kind words.

[@joec.1030]

Pretty cool! 👍🏻📷

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, pretty cool.

[@nerdMike]

Great! New life to old photos and no more degrading during years

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's the solution, always nice to see your avatar in the comments.

[@nerdMike]

@@MaartenHeilbron I'm really addicted to photography in this two years: learning, mistakes, used gear, from apcs to full frame to m4/3. My father used to have Canon AT-1 but I've started later with digital cameras in fact. Sometimes I did video review on my channel about it 🤓 I think to have watched all Your videos entirely Sir, from the last to years and back. Fuji xt3 and xh1 almost 20 times each 😉

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thank you for your interest, your support and your kind words. They are appreciated.

[@codyl1992]

I have done quite a bit of these with the D850, but I recently sold my D850 since i've been shooting more mirrorless these days with my Z6 and Sony. But I still have the D750 and I actually prefer just shooting the negatives RAW and converting them in lightroom with the negative lab pro addon. It does take longer, but the results are much nicer. I can still do it with the D750 with the 60mm f2.8 micro, and the ES-2 kit.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your note. I do wish that Nikon would add the feature to more cameras, but also to their editing software.

[@codyl1992]

@@MaartenHeilbron that would be nice! They could easily add it to the z6 too, it would be easy to do with the FTZ with the macro lens.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, I asked my Nikon Canada contact about this and he didn't understand the omission either.

[@Noealz]

looks like a fun process

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not sure "fun" is the first word that springs to mind - "tedious" seems more appropriate.

[@farisalfaris8120]

I did it using my Nokia N8 long time ago with old negative film. Job was done to a great extent using photo editting.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, there's always work to do after you've captured the image.

[@jaek_898]

Hmm, this is a very interesting option. And with the AF-D version of the 60mm macro lens being so cheap these days it wouldn't be too expensive to try this out... looks like a lot of fun to mess around with

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, lots of fun re-discovering "lost" negatives.

[@Krejstrup]

Thank you for this video. I have been thinking about taking care of my large collection of DIA. I have a Fujifilm X camera and you said that this adapter can be used on any optics, right? That made me a litte more intressed. I saw that holder had place for 135 film. Are there a way to mount 120 film as well? My father and I took a lot of DIA with a Rollieflex back in the days. I think my brother still has the camera... Up to now I have made some atempts of shooting from a tripod on a light table. A lot of adjustments and other fussy stuff though. Not worth the effort!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You may be jumping in a little fast. Not any optics - you'd have to use a macro lens, and you'd need one that's pretty close to 60mm. You'd also need a step up ring to make the filter diameter suit. The adapter only fits 35mm (135) film. I don't think you'd have success with 120. If you've tried the tripod/light table/macro lens approach, this requires the same amount of fiddly work.

[@johncecilian9110]

Happy Holidays to one of the best reviewers on KZbin. So I keep looking for someone who uses their fuji camera to accomplish the same thing just to make sure that I have all of the bases covered. This is what I figured...1. make sure that I have a step up or step down filter to match the device and after that to make sure that I can get the slide or negative at the right distance. It seems to me that almost any macro lens would work if one has the proper extension tubes and it might be a little bit of experiment to get it right. Alternatively, I was thinking that I would use a nikon adapter, and the nikon 40mm macro which apparently fits perfectly on the Nikon ES 2 and then I would be good to go. So my system would be a fuji 24mm camera, the nikon adapter, a nikon 40mm macro and the ES 2...do you see any reason why that combo wouldn't work well? I think the important thing about this device is that you can get better resolution than a scanner and you are assured rather than other DIY methods that you have perfect perpendicular view of the slide. I play with all of my photos in LR so the need to spend 2500 on a new D850 to gain the in camera software seems ridiculous to accomplish this task. haha

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your kind words. Yes, that should work, but I haven't tried it.

[@michaelherskovitz4203]

Thanks for the informative video Maarten. If I’m only working with black and white negatives, would you see a benefit in using Negative Lab Pro ? I’m not adverse to the cost element, but want to think about getting the highest quality image that will allow for bringing out items hidden in the shadows.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

If you are an experienced Lightroom/Photoshop user, there's likely no advantage for black and white or colour.

[@dylanzalman8452]

Kinda off topic but those photos looked like you had a very interesting life. I'd definitely watch a video of you telling your life story and how it all led to launching a camera gear review channel.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks - although, not all of the images are of me. It's my friend and frequent collaborator Doug showing Don McLean a video recording in 1981, and my brother Jacob crossing the finish line at the first Canadian cycle-cross race in 1978. But, yes, that's me showing off my canoeing style. So let me think about that as an interesting topic for a video.

[@gaijinhito]

Thanks for this tutorial. My father had numerous slides he took when stationed in Japan during the Korean War. I was becoming concerned about how to save them for the long term. This might be the solution I was looking for.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I'm sure you will find some interesting images - that sounds like a treasure trove.

[@MarioTorre]

Which side are you photographing? Looks like you mount the film in the holder with the emulsion side up (mat, exposed side up), but then the camera shoot the base (shiny side, back of the film), or did I got it backwards? Thanks!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not sure - the final image should be properly oriented.

[@rolandchambers878]

Would you recommend this process over the light box, tripod route everybody seems to be talking about at the moment? Thanks for this very handy video.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not really. Both are good solutions. I just wanted to illustrate how the Nikon negative feature worked.

[@612morrison]

Hi Maarten, I know Nikon recommends the 60mm fx and 40mm dx micro but will it work with the 105mm vr micro as it also has 62mm filter threads.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Likely it won't be able to focus at the appropriate distance. If it's not recommended, it likely won't work.

[@scdobserver835]

Very nifty feature from Nikon D850. I use a canon flat bed scanner to digitise my negatives and slides. I think they are time consuming, but the quality is quite good. I wonder will you be tempted to compare which method produces the best results, i.e. between the D850 and a good quality digital flat bed scanner?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Great suggestion. Let me see - however, I suspect that the resolution of the sensor on the D850 will provide superior results.

[@fekard]

I found that to make a copy from slides can be done much faster without using the slide holder. Put camera on tripod and face upward at light source and insert single slide directly into adapter. Gravity will hold slide in place. Also use hdmi feed from camera to a TV screen for optimal focus. Works very quickly. Negatives take more time indeed.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good notes, thanks for taking the time to comment.

[@GeologyUpSkill]

Have you tried Silverfast software? Originally designed for scanner control, but they have a batch editing version that is designed to handle images that are previously scanned.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I haven't but it sounds interesting, thanks for the tip!

[@spacemanspiff01]

Negative Lab Pro is easily a much better option than using the negative converter mode in the D850. Sure, you spend a few extra minutes on each image, but the quality is much higher. With NLP you can convert from a raw file, save as a tiff, and make adjustments from there. I use ControlMyNikon software tethered to view the negative as a positive when scanning. Takes me about 15-20 minutes for an entire 36 exposure roll.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Good tips, thanks for sharing.

[@rsridhar63]

Hi! I am invested in a new Fuji X-T3. I would like to know if there is something similar to ES-2 available for X mount lens. If yes, what macro lens will you recommend for it? Thanks.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I recently reviewed this X mount macro lens: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qajco3yAZa-GoNU I haven't seen any comparable Fujifilm accessory. On the other hand, you could use any light table or backlit surface.

[@sh8736]

Thanks this is really interesting. Can I ask you to clarify the lenses? I have the Nikon 40mm but it’s a DX not an FX lens, will this work? I don’t know that a 40mm fx exists. Otherwise what about the 50mm fx lens?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, glad to hear your enjoyed the video. The manual provides the following detail on the lenses: • AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G • AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED (requires supplied 62 mm adapter A) • AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D (requires supplied 62 mm adapter B) Hope this helps.

[@ychamda]

Thanks for sharing. I've started using this setup for digitizing my own negative and slide collection which works well overall. One frustrating issue however is the inability of the slide holder to accept thicker slide mounts. My own slide collection has a wide variety of slide mounts and a huge portion of my collection does not work with the slide holder. I have had to copy them shooting vertically on a light table. How could Nikon screw this up?? Maybe someone would manufacture a third-party slide holder that accepts a variety of mount thicknesses.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I encountered that with a few slides I'd rescued from the telecine tray when I worked at TVOntario - they are in thick glass mounts and wouldn't fit. Thanks for the kind words.

[@CarmineTavernaPhotography]

HELLO, First let me say I have a terrific time watching your KZbin videos. Now my question is, when I use my D850 to scan b&w negatives, witch picture control should I use in the camera? AUTO, STANDARD. NEUTRAL OR MONOCHROME? THANK YOU

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I would record RAW files, making the adjustments offered by picture controls in editing. Thanks, it was a pleasure to read your kind words.

[@VariTimo]

Negative Lab Pro yields amazing results if you it right. You get the amazing colors and contrast curves from the Frontier and Noritzu scanners.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not much help with these files then?

[@VariTimo]

I don’t know your process and the stage of the negs. But with fresh negs I always get nice results with a good enough white balance.

[@saintsi6997]

Top man, Si.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for the kind words, appreciated.

[@jpdj2715]

MH, I feel Nikon owes you a 'thank you'. Your vids with your down to earth tone (relevant and valid) were 2nd to, in my head, turn away from resentment towards the brand and look forward. Bought a Z7, FTZ and 35/1.8G. Shot some tests in the studio last night with old fashioned and eye detect AF, tethered into LR, radio remote controlled, with Wifi and LiveView. It's all a breeze. The i menu and ability to reconfigure it, great. I noticed the picture profiles now have explicit parameter settings that I can change. I think I'll go to "Flat" with all parameters on zero. Not clear if these values change Raw and the sensor>pixel AD conversion, or are stored with meta data. Also noticed flash does not allow lenses to fully open depending on lens and ISO. And the AF Assist light on the left side is blocked by a fat 85/1.4G. Food for spec peepers. I love the crispness and gradation and extremely neutral tone on a calibrated display. Hundred shots and I've become aware this new camera is great. As to Depth of Field, the firmware has a split screen feature - I have asked Nikon san if they could connect this to front and back in-focus edge definition. I also asked them if they could give me constant EV adjustment in Manual mode, in the next firmware update. And if the SC-29 i-TTL extension cable's autofocus assist would work with Z7.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for your thoughts and detailed notes. Just wondering why you want EV in manual mode. Isn't it easier to just adjust the ISO?

[@jpdj2715]

@@MaartenHeilbron- if I have constant EV, rotating one direction would make shutter faster and aperture wider, and vice versa, like on the old Hasselblad Zeiss lenses. If I can stay at ISO 64, I prefer that.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@jpdj2715 The effect you're looking for is available in Program mode, and is called Program Shift.

[@jpdj2715]

@@MaartenHeilbron- appreciated, did not know that. But I really need "Manual".

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@jpdj2715 I would suggest you take a few minutes to study the capabilities of your camera and to assess how its features might best meet your needs.

[@rogersenemugwemm.d.4093]

lol, relevant questions and civil comments I really enjoyed watching this video and would like to know how much the kit cost.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Sorry. I've put a link in the description: bhpho.to/2NvOcI1 (U$140.)

[@automat8]

Great hair Maarten. I have a D810. Do you think this ES-2 would work with it? Thank you.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It would work, as long as you have one of the compatible lenses. And, as the D810 does not have the negative digitizer setting, you'll have to convert the images to positives using software.

[@RussDnB]

Hi. My new lens arrived today, meaning I can have a go at this process. Already ha the D850 and ES-2. However, I've run into something strange, and wondered if you could help shed some light on the issue. When I take a raw pic, I get the expected negative image. If I load that image into Picture Control Utility 2, and invert the curve, I basically see an image that looks like the right polarity (is that the correct phrase?), but has the same 'brown' tint. If I load the image up into NX-D, I see an RGB curves slider. I can invert that, and the image colours look correct. I have also tried creating a Picture Control file in Pic Control Utility 2, placing this on the camera to try and 'invert' the image on camera, again, so I can snap in RAW rather than JPEG (strange omission that isn't it). But again, I only see the 'browny' coloured image. Do you have any idea how I can resolve this, without having to relegate my plans to a JPEG image using the Negative Digitizer mode? In short, I'd like to see the images looking the correct colour before I shoot, so I can have a reasonable idea of what to expect when they arrive on the computer. Thanks, Russ.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

This process is not designed for RAW files. You'll have to do all the processing on your own.

[@RussDnB]

Maarten Heilbron Thanks for the reply 👍

[@Film_Fog]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think you are mistaken when advising people to Expose To The Left for capturing images of negative film. It should still be Expose To The Right always with a digital sensor because you still want to saturate the digital sensor even though you are capturing an image of a negative film. For the best dynamic range, use RAW and do the conversion in Post processing. I’m workings my way through thousands of film negatives and I find CaptureOne a good tool to control the camera and import live. Speeds up the workflow and helps get optimal images shots using live histograms on the computer.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for the notes. The key, of course, is to expose properly, and in general, I found the dynamic range of the negative images to be less than what current technology delivers. Does Capture One do a better job of turning negatives into positives?

[@Film_Fog]

I’ve tried Photoshop, Capture One, Nikon NX2 and Luminar. Luminar was terrible for this process. Photoshop was good and can be partly automated with scripts. Nikon NX2 can be used to create a picture profile that can be loaded into the Nikon camera and so the negative image is made into a positive ‘in camera’, making the RAW file and resulting post editing easier. But, CaptureOne is top my choice for capturing the image because it has a live view mode that can be seen full screen on the PC/Mac. This enables easy and accurate live positioning of the negative holder in the ES-2 body; and the histogram ensures the most optimal remote control of the camera setting when used with a constant light source. I have it pointing straight up to a frosted skylight. I find LED lights do not have full spectrum light. Flash can’t be used with live view mode (on a Nikon D850). Using live view is important as it allows Electronic shutter instead of Mechanical shutter and so eliminates vibrations from mirror/shutter movements.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@Film_Fog Wow! Thanks for the helpful notes - I would certainly encourage you to create a video or blog post that details some of these steps - like create a negative picture profile - as that would be very helpful. It sounds like I should spend more time learning Capture One, and I don't have a lot of tethered shooting experience - also both good topics for more discussion. I like the suggestion about the skylight, but the colour temperature of sunlight can vary widely. I use LEDs that are rated with a CRI of 96, and I can capture and preset a very accurate Kelvin setting (although I said use AWB in the video, as I feel that's generally good enough). Using a full electronic shutter does introduce some artifacts. I recommended using electronic front in the video after I discussed this issue with Nikon engineers.

[@dejapex1]

Thanks for the video!! Can I perform this operation with a Nikon D5000? If so, what lens would you recommend? Thanks

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Well, the only advantage the D850 has is the negative mode. If you can process the images yourself, then sure, it works with an Nikon camera. I'd use the AF-S micro 60mm that was used in the video. However, consider that you can achieve similar results with a light table to illuminate the slides evenly and a macro lens that provides a nice sharp image of a 35mm slide.

[@dejapex1]

@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks for your reply. Take care

[@iyzyz]

Excuse me if this question is dumb, but do you have to develop the film before digitizing it? Or can you just digitize the film straight out of the camera?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, the film must be developed first. If you take it out of the camera it will continue to react to light until its developed.

[@iyzyz]

@@MaartenHeilbron thank you sir. I love you and your videos.

[@budl6782]

I want to use the negative digitizer in a new D850 with the ES-2, but in Live View and pressing i as I scan the menu, Negative Digitizer does not appear. What have I forgotten to do?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not sure. Have you contacted Nikon support?

[@jpdj2715]

Nice presentation, Maarten, as always. It struck me that the wobbly connection between mounting ring and slide copying tube is kind of awkward. Makes the whole Nikon slide copier package seem very expensive, as if this would have been between $25 and $ 50 when a 3rd party name were on it.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's a good observation, and it does make the system a little finicky. Let me know if you find a less expensive alternative. And, thanks for your kind words, always appreciated.

[@jpdj2715]

@@MaartenHeilbron- i was just in the 2nd hand dept of a large local retailer. They had this Canon bellows set for old Canon cameras with the bellows slide copying adapter. And thought, had it been Nikon, I'd have bought it, with a lens reversal ring and a very good 50mm. You are aware of reversal rings and the idea behind them?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I haven't seen a bellows, or a reversal ring, in years - thanks for the reminder of things past.

[@simonharding5696]

Great video, Maarten. I was thinking of buying this kit to digitise my film and slide stocks. I have a variety of lenses, including a 105D micro-Nikkor (with a 52mm filter thread)....does this mean I cannot use this kit as I do not have the two lenses you mentioned? Prior to this, I had set up my slides on an LED light panel, set my camera and 105mmD lens on the D850 and adjusted the centre column of my tripod to set the appropriate camera to subject height......is this my only method if I do not own those two lenses you mentioned?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, I appreciate your kind words. Essentially, yes. The kit comes with adapters for those two lenses. However, not only is your method a good one, it's also a very practical one. Of course, it would be possible to use an adapter ring to match the filter thread diameters for other macro lenses.

[@simonharding5696]

Maarten Heilbron thank you for this. I can go ahead and order the kit. Do you know where I would source the adapted ring for a 52mm thread? Apologies for the question barrage!!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Any photo store, including online ones like B&H will have step-down rings. Search for the two diameters you need.

[@simonharding5696]

@@MaartenHeilbron thank you, sir. Very much appreciated.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always happy to help.

[@fredred476]

Hi Maarten, thanks for the video! I am wondering if you can change the orientation of the device a full 90 degrees, as well as just making fine adjustments (2:29), to allow you to take 'panos' of a slide or negative, to stitch together higher res files. Thanks in advance, Freddie

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I don't see how that would work.

[@fredred476]

@@MaartenHeilbron thanks for getting back to me. As in you don't think the orientation can be changed so the negatives are on the vertical axis instead of horizontal?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@fredred476 Yes, but why? You want the orientation of the slide to be the same as the sensor. If you need to turn it, do that in post.

[@fredred476]

@@MaartenHeilbron haha, yeh, that is definately the more convenient way. I have a 26mp camera, so I was wondering about making files with higher resolution to make prints >20". To be fair I don't know how well 35mm will enlarge above 20"... But the way I figure I might be able to do that is to shoot with a longer focal length, or alternatively just change the focal distance of the device (which my require some sort of threaded tubing). Then to effectively shoot a panarama across the negative, with the sensor orientated in portrait, ideally with the top and bottom of the sensor (ie the short edge of the sensor) lined up with the long edge of the negative. I figure it will take around 3 shots to get across the whole of the negative. There are quite a number of what ifs there, with potentially a fair bit of fiddling, but I quite like that. I can't see anything that would make that setup impossible, but maybe I'm missing something..? Thanks again for getting back to me.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@fredred476 Although there may be a way to do that with a different macro lens, it's not possible to do that with this adapter.

[@vermontmike9800]

Hypothetically, could this device work on an Olympus EM1 and 60mm macro with a step up ring?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, but try a light table first.

[@monmioamio]

✌🏻Cool hairdo. The young man in the canoe 🙂

[@MaartenHeilbron]

The young man in the canoe is now the producer/host of this channel.

[@monmioamio]

Only the hair changed ✌🏻

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You are very kind, thanks.

:) Gracias, tambien parecen existir opciones de marcas genericas compatibles con otras cámaras.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Sí, hay muchas maneras de lograr resultados similares o mejores.

[@joffemannen]

Upgraded from Nikon D7000 to D780, so I also upgraded from the Kaiser adapter to the ES-2. I'm using the 55mm AF Nikon Micro, and with the Kaiser on a DX sensor I only used about 65% of the sensor. With ES-2 I can choose myself. But the negative digitizer mode doesn't impress me. My recently taken photos using a Nikon F and a Nikon F-501 all come out with a positive vignette. Really hoping the RAW and conversion in Negative Lab Pro option does a better job. Also, my Dell won't let me do live tether capture, I guess all USB C aren't created equal - the one that might work is used for 2nd display. And I hear Negative Lab Pro wants some of that white (black) buffer(?), to do a perfect white balance. I don't think the negative holder from the ES-2 kit gives you that, unless you don't put the film in a bit wonky

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for adding your interesting notes.

[@rujakandroid]

awesome

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

[@bjnslc]

If you use LEDs as a light source, be sure the have a good CRI.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That goes without saying, but thanks for adding that note.

[@VariTimo]

CRI?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@VariTimo Colour Rendering Index - is measures the ability of a light to provide a wide enough spectrum to render colours faithfully.

[@Channel_Yo]

Is the light from the lightbox not a good enough light source?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Likely it is, but even less convenient than this solution.

[@efferoconsultingabprojects3500]

Interesting! Would this device work with a Tamron 90 mm G2 macro lens?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I have no experience to offer for this question, but it seems to me that 90mm might be a little too tight for this adapter, and may not have the range of adjustment to suit. And there is the issue of the lens thread. If it's not 62mm, you'll also need a step-up ring.

[@efferoconsultingabprojects3500]

@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you Maarten the lens take 62 mm filter. Does the product specify a maximum focal range och focus distance?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

That's the diameter that's supplied. No, that information isn't provided in the instructions (which you can download from Nikon).

[@Mrbluesplayer43]

A well explained video. Can it be adapted to be used with Canon cameras though ?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I'm sure that someone could McGyver this solution, but there are certainly simpler ways. A macro lens with the slide or negative on a light table would be my first recommendation.

[@Mrbluesplayer43]

@@MaartenHeilbron Yer, you're probably right although I like the simplicity of this set up and you don't have to mess around trying to get your camera exactly parallel to the slide. Mind I've just looked at the price in the UK for the ES-2 and boy is it expensive.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@Mrbluesplayer43 Try the light table.

[@VariTimo]

Do you think I could make it work with a Canon 60mm f2.8 macro on the EOS M50 and some step up rings and maybe and extension tube?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Seems doubtful. I'd use a simpler approach. Just put the slides or negatives on a light table.

[@VariTimo]

That’s what I’m doing right know and it’s a pain in the ass to keep the light table, film holders, and copying tripod dust free. It also takes quite a while to set up. If I could use a lens attachment and the light table as just a light source and not as a surface to put the film on I’d cut my scanning time in half.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@VariTimo Right. Dust free does not get any easier with the Nikon adapter.

[@VariTimo]

So the Nikon adapter simply attaches via regular lens threats?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@VariTimo Yes, threats are not necessary, it mounts fairly easily.

[@terancepickles]

Any idea if this works with the 55mm f2.8 ais lens? Thanks for your video!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It is not one of the lenses listed as compatible by Nikon. It needs to be a macro lens.

[@terancepickles]

@@MaartenHeilbron ah, the 55 f2.8 is a micron lens, but I wasn't sure about filter threads. Thanks fur your response!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Should have checked that before I replied. The filter thread on the adapter is 62mm - but there are lots of adapters to make that work.

[@terancepickles]

@@MaartenHeilbron thanks dude!

[@MaartenHeilbron]

always happy to help

[@triggrhaapi]

How would you say this process compares to using an Epson v750 or v850?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

More work, but higher resolution images.

[@jgr757]

I scan my negatives with an Edson V600 using Epson Scan and get .tif files that are about 45 MB for a 35 mm image. Then I work the .tif’s in LR as necessary (mostly sharpening and contrast), are the resulting .jpeg of the Nikon system as flexible in LR? I generally don’t do any processing with .jpeg files because they fall apart pretty quickly IMO. I’m also curious if you have used this to convert any black and white negatives. Great review, Maarten. I always enjoy your straight forward no-nonsense approach to your videos.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@jgr757 It sounds like you have a good process, although clearly it sounds like saving RAW files is another advantage that the Nikon process offers - of course that requires giving up the in camera negative conversion. I did try some black and white images - I found them to be much easier to deal with. Thanks for your kind words it's always nice to know my viewers appreciate my work.

[@farisalfaris8120]

Could the Sony a7r4 develope photos from negatives like the Nikon?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, however it does not have the negative setting so you'll have to reverse the image in your editing software.

[@farisalfaris8120]

@@MaartenHeilbron Thanx a lot. You are doing a great job in your videos, I respect your being honest, precise but conciese, and smiley. I wish you best luck.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@farisalfaris8120 That's very kind of you to say, thanks!!!

[@farisalfaris8120]

@@MaartenHeilbron Not at all. Welcome.

[@ramanbhardwaj7099]

In my d850 digitisation i options window is not open.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

You need, as I mentioned, the Nikon ES-2 adapter.

[@defender1961]

Thanks for sharing. But why mounting the camera on a tripod? Motion blur should not matter as long the background light is homogeneous.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Because it's easier to work, one less thing to hold and fiddle with.

[@bassamhassan1119]

I would like to ask u. I am colour blind and I love photography. I want to buy a camera, I don't think I would use the RAW images, I would only use jpeg. I can afford a used Pentax k1 or Fuji x-t3. Which would u recommend?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I haven't had the chance to review the K1 (although I've been trying), so the X-T3 tops my list.

[@bassamhassan1119]

@@MaartenHeilbron thanks

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Always happy to help.

[@tommyestridge9301]

How about copying B&W negatives?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Same, but easier.

[@jpdj2715]

Expose to the left or right? My position: if a sensor readout is done linearly and linearly (AD) converted to a binary value, then there would not be a difference between left or right. If the AD conversion would follow a binary logic (base 2 log or exponential like exposure and ISO) then the bright side might actually compress (lose) gradation resolution. In the film days, we saw density of film as a straight line function of 10 base log I*t (where i and t are intensity and exposure time), indicating a loss of gradation resolution or compression, to the right. With all details I know about "digital" photography, my understanding is that how a camera and firmware developer does this AD conversion is actually the secret sauce that forces 3rd party software developers (DxO, Adobe, C1) to buy cameras and reverse engineer the raw conversion each time, down to the firmware version level. It would be nice if a KZbinr with significant enough subscribers could have some interviews with camera manufacturer or 3rd party software developer people to expose the subject and illuminate the community more about this.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for adding this detail, and for your suggestion.

[@F-Pfiff]

try to use SilverFast NegaFix to convert your negatives into positives

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for the tip. Didn't find that in my searches.

[@Mrbluesplayer43]

Funny that Adobe created the DNG digital negative file but don't support native negative conversion in LR .

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, I've incorporated that into my standup routine!

[@calvinchann1996]

Also not sure why conversion isn’t an option in Lightroom.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

None of the popular photo management/editing applications seem to have this.

[@BaluSrinivasan]

Nice video. Which Lightbox are you using? Which one would you recommend?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I've had it since the 1970s, and the brand isn't identified on the unit. It's the quality of the light inside that matters - but the camera's white balance should be able to help with that as long as it's reasonably full spectrum (meaning, avoid fluorescents).

[@BaluSrinivasan]

@@MaartenHeilbron , thank you for reply. Though I do not plan to add more gear for a limited purpose, and plan to stick to my Epson V550 for my Negative Scans, I do miss a Negative Lightbox. From your reply, it appears LED Lightboxes (which are the only ones available these days) are okay for my purpose. Have any to recommend?

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@BaluSrinivasan Sounds like a plan. Sorry, no idea what's out there in the market.

[@david4god78]

I like the idea of using a digital camera to "scan" your neagatives more than using a dedicated scanner. Buying a dedicated negative scanner is not in my budget. Especially when I don't shoot very many photos

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, that makes sense.

[@johnmccann4041]

You don't need the expensive Nikon tool, much less a macro lens. An old slide copier (lens and holder) will do the job. (Nor even a tripod, since it's locked to the body - where one goes, the other goes.) My kit for my D850 cost £20.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Perfect, thanks for the suggestion.

[@colnagocowboy]

I have a 40 year supply of slides and negatives (and still shoot film). An actual film scanner cost less than a single new lens.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

It's always nice to hear that there's a solution for every wallet.

[@dhedc]

Very interesting. I have lots of slides and negatives I’d like to convert. I would need to use a service. The donut yourself process you describe is too time intensive for me.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

I think that's a valid observation and an excellent suggestion. And always nice to see your comments here.

[@1911geek]

I hope he will not knock the camera off his table

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Spoiler alert: He does not.

[@akhyarrayhka4048]

kids today wont understand the purpose of this LMAO

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Not so fast, both of my children are still using film cameras.

[@johnjon1823]

Riding a 10 speed in the snow and ice with narrow tires, or for that matter at all, is kind of suicidal.

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Yes, but the winner of the race - the first Canadian CycloCross Championship - was my brother Jacob, who is now a member of the Mountain Bike Hall of Fame.

[@johnjon1823]

@@MaartenHeilbronWe need not emulate others in jumping off cliffs or otherwise, as I am sure your mother told you. ;)

[@MaartenHeilbron]

@@johnjon1823 Apparently that message did not get through to my brother.

[@ron5935]

Lets see, plastic adapter ring seizes on lens like cheap aluminum filter on a real lens. A bit of paste silicone fix. Second must relevel for every negative because mechanism is plain sloppy and the film carries spins. PITA big time. Fix with two supports , one for each side. No hand tools, but a good electric miter saw. Sorry design

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Thanks for sharing these useful notes.

[@ForTheViolence]

you don't need a tripod

[@MaartenHeilbron]

Maybe YOU don't. I do.