MACHINE SHOP TIPS

[@CNCDude]

Mr Pete, just wanted to say THANK YOU for putting these videos together. About two years ago I bought a CNC milling machine and have been thirsty for knowledge. Don't recall how I found your videos, but you have become my teacher and what I have learned from you is farther ahead from anything I have learnt from books or other videos. Please keep up the good work and fantastic teaching, as there is really not a lot of good resources out there, and we need them!

[@AngelM158]

You are a great mentor! Your videos are amazing!!

[@MaxDJsWorkshop]

Once a teacher, always a teacher? So cool that you continue to wish to share your knowledge.

[@BrianBuonomo]

Mr Pete, Great video. I learn something new every time I see one of your videos. I purchased the Southbend Lathe video series and it has been great! I only hope that I can convey the same enthusiasm to my students.

[@aplinewalker]

You are a true inspiration and have a wealth of knowledge Mr Pete I don't have a lathe or milling machine nothing like that but your videos have still helped me no end, with drilling tapping filing etc. And in part have inspired me to build a working model beam engine with a 17 inch beam 15 inch flywheel,4 inch dia cylinder, and 6 inch stroke powered by the exhaust from a vacuum. and she ran for the first time a few days ago, and with a bit of tinkering got her to run at 11 and 3/4 R.P.M

[@danbreyfogle8486]

That is a great looking nut. And so easy to make with skill, knowledge, and tools.

[@catmshtr89]

Absolutely love your work. I like how you explain what your doing in layman's terms. Thank you for your videos.

[@HemiRod23]

I really enjoy watching you make practical and useful parts and repairs. I wish you had been MY shop teacher.

[@MilanDupal]

Nicely done! Details are making the whole impression of nice old machinery.

[@Cursorkeys]

Thank you for breaking down the operations into the exact step-by-step how and why. I'm attempting to teach myself metal work and am still at the stage of occasionally having to duck as another expensive tool objects to what I'm trying to do. If I absorb all of the knowledge you very kindly share in your videos I may make it out alive ;)

[@aplinewalker]

(continued from comment below) I was so proud and excited to get her working even though she's made using a bit of lateral thinking and its not true engineering, but your videos skill, and craftsmanship have gone a long way in helping me achieve my goal, thank Mr Pete I will post some video a,s,a,p, im hoping 12 R,P,M will take some beating. Thanks for the inspiration

[@tsees36]

Thanks for the demo. Beats the lengthy task time of taking a nut and cutting the groove with a hacksaw and then filing it round. I do enjoy your vids

[@rlewis1946]

I eagerly await - as many do - your gems of wisdom and great skill. Thanks for continuing to share it with your many viewers! Best wishes from Buffalo! Roy

[@kenzpenz]

Watched this video again for the umpteenth time , and still learned something. Great video....thanks...Ken

[@jimc336]

Almost 3000 views in the first 24 hours. Mr. Pete is a rockstar!

[@aj9270]

Thank you Mr. Pete for another great video !

[@chris-the-bodge-sculptor]

Always a pleasure to watch you videos

[@SlowEarl1]

Can't wait for the next video thanks for taking the time to make great videos.

[@Abom79]

Another good video Mr. Pete.

[@russtuff]

Does parting after threading bugger the the threads at all? What if they were outside threads?

[@mrpete222]

Thanks for watching. Very impressive that you made an engine without machine tools. I love engines that run slow-----you can watch all the motion.

[@not2fast4u2c]

You do Nice work It looks factory original Thanks for the Lesson

[@sazhen86]

Both the centre drill and the tap drill jumped upwards a fair distance on entry to the work. Is the tailstock a bit worn?

[@brandontscheschlog]

I was looking for a way to get rid of the nylon lock nut knuckle-breaker and came across this! Thank you!

[@GaryT1952]

Outstanding Mr. Pete!

[@mrpete222]

Thanks--I was hoping a few teachers would buy it for their classes.

[@stillbashingmetal]

OK, thanks. I understand the threads per inch part of your answer. So, are US thread sizes designated by number, ie a number 12 thread? I have only heard of metric, BSF,UNF, NPT, etc and all of these threads start with a fractional size, for example 3/16" , 1/4", 1/2" etc. etc. American threads are identified by numbers only? Thanks for your patience :-)

[@crackerjax27526]

They closed the machine shop at my school I saved an Hardinge hvl-h lathe and a Bridgeport mill for our fab shop. I can run the lathe but Im new at the mill. Is there a book you recommend for beginner mill users?

[@pedronavajas3532]

I noticed the centering bit and drill bit jumped when making the initial hole does that mean he tail stock is not set up to the perfect height my lathe does the same thing

[@gjkozy]

I find your videos very informative and they take the mystery out of many things. I recently purchased a South Bend 9C with the same exact problem with the crank nuts, really buggered up. From what I have learned from this video is the dials where thumb screws, mine where just a slotted piece of threaded rod, that there is a brass under the screw. While I would like to tackle this as a project, I don't have a mill to cut the slot on the head of the nut. I would imagine many who watch your videos are also in the same predicament, they purchase a lathe but do not have a mill. Maybe you could suggest if possible and if applicable other ways of accomplishing doing things without the mill for those of us without one. Love your channel, keep up the great work.

[@mrpete222]

I guess you could use a hacksaw or Dremel tool to cut the slot

[@Samwell314]

The centre drill leaves a hole that has a 60 degree included angle and is designed originally for mounting a work piece 'between the centres on a lathe. The spotting drill is a stubby, inflexible bit to make your starting hole. Lots of us use centre drill as spotting drills. I'm an amateur and will defer to folks here with more knowledge than I.

[@gabrielbonannoo]

12-24 is still used on hinges for metal doors and frames. It is also still the standard thread for most rim cylinders ( lock cylinders used on rim locks )

[@AlchemistLair]

Very nice work!! Looks factory!

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Nice job Mr. Pete !!

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@hazemawad]

nice tips man... h've enjoyed the vedio keep on going

[@stillbashingmetal]

What do the numbers 12/24 refer to on the screw? I have heard the number codes used before on YT machining videos, but what do they mean? Thank you.

[@kerrywil1]

great video. any interest in doing a video on fly cutters and face mills for the bridgeport. Difference and use of both. Thanks again for your time and experience.

[@honkie247]

An excellent video as usual. Two points that I noticed tho. Isn't your work supposed to be against the fixed jaw of the vise and the vee blocks against the moveable jaw? And more important, even if your file did have a handle on it, holding it the way you did would do serious damage to your wrist if the file contacted the chuck jaws or bit into the work for some reason.

[@benjamincuningham]

What is the difference between a center drill bit and a spotting drill bit?

[@mannys9130]

You have a lovely voice!

[@marvinrayweast]

very nice and well done! The small parts can be tedious for us fat finger guys.

[@steveb391]

I would have liked to have seen you part the piece off but still a good video, like the work.

[@rickyretic]

MrPete, You got me to wondering as I watched your new post so I did some checking. McMaster-Carr does indeed carry 12/24 machine screws.And of all places I found 14/20 machine screws listed at Lowe's.Go figure !

[@crookedriver2079]

I always wondered why the nuts were made the way they were, on my 1947 South Bend 9A. I always thought it was a bit eccentric or oddball that South Bend made them that way. Now I know why, after seeing the Atlas Craftsman in your video! (The other thing I found surprising is the round keystock, rather than rectangular, in the ball handle. I never ran into that before)

[@AF6LJSue]

I love these videos. :)

[@dustinmasters9239]

Those look great!

[@mrpete222]

+Dustin Masters Thanks for watching

[@andregross7420]

There are ways to fix the old nut, this can be done by peening the burr down around the slot then re slotting it with a small needle file.

[@gushhnet]

You can cut a chamfer or small relief before you part but if your blade is centered and sharp there shouldn't be a problem specially if you feed slowly on the outside threads in the beginning, since it's pretty much an interrupted cut until you clear the thread.

[@jimbailey6522]

Nicely done!..im with you, why buy something that you can make..and even if you didn't have a mill and slotting tool, you could still make it on your lathe with milling attachment and a small end mill..

[@BluegrassPercussion]

The 12/24 thread is used in the percussion industry. Tension rods for drums use this size.

[@gohuskies583]

Steve, Tubalcain has a video showing the parting operation. Go to his page and use the search box for "parting". Good luck.

[@75Bird455]

Just in case anyone is wondering, my 1973 model South Bend 13" lathe has crank nuts that are .555" in diameter, and are tapped 5/16-24. Mine are beat up (and I'm missing one) so I'll be making a pair based on this video. I don't have a milling machine though, so perhaps I can get a good slot cut with a dremel.

[@johnstrange6799]

Thank you for posting this info. I successfully made one today for my older (likely 1940's) 13".

[@mrpete222]

YES

[@chemech]

The threading systems are similar - diameter followed by thread pitch. Metric: 6mm bolt x 1.0 mm thread pitch, or M6 x 0.75 for fine thread American: 1/4" - 20 threads per inch, UNC or 28 threads per inch UNF C= coarse, F = Fine NPT = National Pipe *Taper* pipe does not have straight sides over the threads. There are websites, or the Machinery's Handbook has the information, albeit harder to read...

[@crackerjax27526]

Well done

[@dubphat]

nice job

[@shopdogsam]

,, pencil me in,, present and accounted for,, great lesson today, ""but my center drill moved??""

[@dictare]

1/4-20 is the smallest fractional (fractions of an inch) size machine screw in common use today. Only screw diameters smaller than 1/4" are sized in numbers. Search for "Unified Thread Standard"

[@n6jwp]

The first number is the diameter. The bigger the number the bigger the screw. The second number is the number of threads per inch.

[@JohnLoganMcKee03]

Yeap, the right tool for the right job.

[@dictare]

The first number is the size (diameter) the second number is the threads per inch.

[@wnebergall]

I put acorn nuts on my lathe to help with this problem

[@devilmastah]

i always tear my hands open at my tailstock, myford made it so that the thread of the tailstock actually comes out of the handwheel...

[@nickmuratalla3924]

👍

[@h8ncars]

Foot school to learn ABC but I goto work an earn money from XYZ!

[@MaturePatriot]

You know the lathe feels better that it looks nicer, like a woman after a nice manicure. Why is it called a MANicure when 99.9% of the people who get one are women? HHMMM. There's a CORRECT tool for every job, if you don't have it, take the time to make it. Wish I could get a South Bend that you have rebuilt, that would be a very nice lathe. Would probably be a little pricey though!! lol The Atlas needs an acorn nut.

[@ammagato]

Visto che c'eri potevi migliorarlo.