Machining a D1 4 to ER32 Adapter Chuck

[@frankmarian8122]

Thank you for explaining such a simple way of setting the angle of the cross slide for the ER 32 collets so accurately.

[@gordonagent7037]

Thank you for such a detailed explanation. My turn now!

[@petera1033]

Nice bit of 'fitting and turning' Cam - subscribed to your channel supporting fellow Aussies! -:) Pete

[@camatbattler2233]

Thanks for dropping by Peter and commenting. Very glad to have you on board. Cam

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

Ouch that factory machining was snarky. Great work making it more gooder. _Dan_

[@lagunafishing]

Didn't you need to recut the thread too?

[@gordonagent7037]

Hi again Cam, I see you are in Aus, can I get one of these adapter plates from Hapco. Thanks

[@davesalzer3220]

I’m gonna do that to mine. Awesome fix

[@wladimirlopes5841]

Saudações do brasil meu amigo.Qual o diametro externo do seu camlock o diametro dos pinos.obrigado

[@jagboy69]

Do you have a link to the guy that sells this?? Thanks!

[@stanstevens3783]

Very informative video. Could this be corrected by machining the collet side of the chuck instead? Thanks for showing this

[@camatbattler2233]

G'day Stan, I guess you could machine the internal taper but these collets are very temperamental. The thread if it is out will also pull the collet off centre. With these cheaper tools you have no idea how they were machined and in what sequence. Clearly mine was a shocker, weather the threads and the taper were both out is anyone's guess. The only way to guarantee perfect alignment was to let the collet component settle to it's natural state and machine the D1-4 to suit. As you can see visually it worked perfectly. Cam

[@stanstevens3783]

@@camatbattler2233 Thanks for that info Cam, and the prompt reply

[@whatupg1]

Great work Cam, Thanks for sharing mate. can you please tell me why you would use a er32 on the spindle as opposed to the 5c collets. many thanks Max

[@camatbattler2233]

G'Day MFS, trying to catch up on correspondence. 5C would be the way to go particulary if you can 'Draw Bar' them in to lock onto the work piece. I don't have any 5C gear in my arsenal but have a full set of ER32 with a range of arbors for different setups. The other factor is cost, can't justify another type of tooling set, well at least not to my wife. Cam

[@chrisnixon2179]

What's is the name of the company you got it from, I can only find er40 d1-4 chucks. Would like a er32 d1-4 chuck because is have about 40 er32 collects in metric and imperial. The only er32 chuck I can find is from Europe and the price is outrageous. Any help would be appreciated

[@camatbattler2233]

Hi Chris, I bought mine from M&G Productions - www.mag-pro.com.au/index.php but I notice they no longer have then on their site. Try Ausee Machines and Tools - www.ausee.com.au/shop/search.aspx?search=er32 Cam

[@chrisnixon2179]

@@camatbattler2233 thank you

[@denniswilliams8747]

Hi From My battles with er 32 chucks, I found the threads have to be concentric to the axis, The nut will if the thread boss is off center will pull the collet off center. Good luck.

[@camatbattler2233]

G'Day Dennis, as per my reply to Max, one thing I don't scrimp on is collets, The quality of your work can be affected greatly by the accuracy of your tool holding jigs. May cost more but its worth it. Cam

[@turningpoint6643]

@@camatbattler2233 OEM runout before re-machining was roughly .004" I've got some good Emco 3 jaw scroll chucks that average close to one thou and even a couple of drill chucks over twice as accurate as how that came from the factory. Blindly using it as it was without checking would be a huge step backwards. And 100% in agreement about not trying to save by buying the cheap collet sets either. I bought a full set of Bison ER 40's since I wanted dual usage from them on both the mill and lathe. Yes there expensive, but if your not gaining any accuracy there's no point in using them since a chuck would be faster. I see far too many posts on the machinist forums where a whole lot of cheap tooling is recommended by some, yet it seems to be almost universal that few will take the time to actually run the checks to be sure what they bought is in fact good enough without further work. I had to learn the hard way not to trust anything if decent accuracy is wanted. If you don't do those checks there's no way to be sure of what you have. That was an impressive change from what you started with and the final numbers.

[@JBFromOZ]

great stuff thanks for sharing Cam

[@camatbattler2233]

Thanks JB. Its pretty disappointing when you purchase something only to find its way out of spec. Anyway, it made a good video for anyone who might find themselves in a similar situation.Cam

[@kenjohnson6338]

Doing something similar now. To a minitor d360..... and a 250mm chuck......bollox , run the bit into taper that I made.. brain fart , not happy...😢 , will have to weld and harden I suppose... But to machine using one lathe is problematic... removed old chuck and clamped new chuck onto original backplate , in reverse... to machine backplates... Seems to be working out.. Will see how this pans out when I get back in shop..!!

[@denniswilliams8747]

Thank you for the vid. You have giiven me some ideas to try.

[@atlasasher3519]

A tip : watch series on flixzone. Been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.

[@sullivankorbin4183]

@Atlas Asher yea, I have been watching on Flixzone for months myself =)

[@mikelevyonline]

If I correctly understand your method of setting the angle of the topslide, you moved the topslide exactly one inch, and this is the number you used for the run. But this is the hypotenuse of the triangle, and therefore the topslide was actually set to an angle whose sine=.125, whereas what you really want is the angle whose tangent=.125. The difference is about 3 minutes of arc. I don't know in practice how significant that is, but it would explain why your reference taper looks like it only picked up blue on the front edge.

[@camatbattler2233]

Yes you are correct. I should have calculated the hypotenuse for the top slide travel. Good pickup Cam

[@Michael-he7xn]

Brilliant!

[@weldmachine]

Hey Cam. Did you do something Bad in your last life as it seems to be coming at you now. First the Workshop was sinking. Now you a truing up a Brand New part. They say Bad things happen in 3, s. So that means you only have one more to go. And then you are Gold. ( well hopefully ??? ) See you on the next one. All the best. Regards Peter.

[@weldmachine]

Hey Cam. Good to hear from you. I was thinking i was off your Christmas Card List, lol. Have not heard from you in some time. All good, talk to you soon. Peter.

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

that seems to be an all to familiar story with those collet chucks , one brand i tried ( MT4 to ER40 collet chuck ) was Mechanika - a hungarian company the tools are made in taiwan & middle of the road cost wise & very good quality , i think i found them on e-bay .

[@camatbattler2233]

G'Day Max, yep quality is certainly hit and miss particularly from the Asian regions. I now buy knowing I'm saving quite a bit of money but also I know I'll getting only 80% of the product. The other 20% is my time to bring it into spec. One thing I do buy for quality and will spend premium is for the actual collets, these things if they are out of spec are throw aways. Cam

[@ShevillMathers]

👍👍😁🇦🇺🔭

[@JLK89]

Cool approach. I'd have rather machined the inside of the er taper. D1-4 is difficult to do, plus you're subject to the accuracy of the er collet you're using (which could be pretty bad assuming they're also Chinese)

[@camatbattler2233]

G'Day Kobus, thanks for the reply. One thing I haven't compromised on is my ER Collet sets. I buy high quality from industry dealers. It costs, but you can't get repeatable accuracy with the cheap stuff.