Machining a Post Drill Feed Screw

[@graemedunstan2470]

for a long time I have watched your work, I do not comment very often, but at 72 I have spent many hours doing what you do and when I look at what abom79 does and the age difference between you two, I smile and then smile again, keep doing it your way Young Man, you are what we were taught and thank you, it makes me remember and I enjoy, thank you.

[@robertkalbas6264]

Oh I love you I

[@kevinbyrne4538]

Very gratifying to see an old post drill saved from the scrap heap.

[@joepie221]

Get ready for more parts from that guy. That part is going to look and work so well, he's going to want to rebuild the whole area. Good job.

[@brianermelin5658]

Thank you sir,! I very much enjoyed your video. It's been many years since I have done any lathe work. When I was about 10 years old my best friends father was a Shop super at DuPont in De. so his home shop had it all. He taught us the basics of safety and how each tool worked. After that we were allowed to basically run amok. The Lincoln welder and the Oxy. Aced torch were the only tools we were not to use. 48 years later and I don't think that there has been a day that I didn't have a tool in my hands. I taught both my sons early on and by their mid teens they knew more than most adults. Both sons make a comfortable living and I couldn't be more proud of them. So keep making your videos because you are planting seeds in the minds of many young people. Thank you.

[@robertpickard6045]

I watch in awe as you and Abom turn a piece of stock into a finished piece with such precision. Please, more like this.

[@shadrachmalooly9394]

Thanks Kieth. Another superb video. My secondary school in the UK used to have a machine shop. We had 6 lathes and 2 vertical milling machines, a couple of floor mounted pillar drill and associated tooling. There was a drafting room, brazing hearths, vacuum formers... it was amazing. (this was a regular state school... nothing posh) We were taught how to use them correctly and safely. I didn't know of any other schools that had such "Design Department" but I practically lived in there....making... anything in my lunch break and helping older students with A level projects. So, I really enjoy your videos, they take me back to hot sunny lunch breaks in the school workshop... the sounds and smells. Keep it up sir.

[@dbracer]

I think this was fairly common - my comprehensive had a machine shop with Colchester Student lathes and even a forge. But that was back in the early 1980s. With only one teacher for a sizeable class, it was difficult to provide enough supervision to keep things safe. Looking at the school on a satellite picture, it's been completely redeveloped and I very much doubt that the shop remains.

[@gagasmancave8859]

My comp school in Hayes West London even had two shapers, one of the two lassies I'm my class used to turn 3" ally blocks into the most amazing ashtrays with a spiral slot milled around the outside

[@BowlerHatHatHatHat]

Been coming here for your videos for years. I hope they continue to be enjoyable for you, as well, for years to come! Cheers!

[@userunavailable3095]

First time I've heard the locomotive in your videos in a long time. :) I love the museum curator's heart and approach to your work.

[@jeffnagel918]

I really enjoyed seeing the old shop. I like the light, camera angle and the old dirty shop atmosphere it is. Thanks for bringing us back.

[@michaelshea5427]

Keith is correct! Feeding in at 90 degrees instead of 29.5 degrees when cutting 60 degree threads results in the threading insert cutting on both sides. Feeding in at 29.5 results in the insert only cutting on the leading side. This will result in less tool wear, pressure and produce better threads. Joe Pieczynski has a great video explaining this further! Thanks again Keith for another awesome video!

[@AtelierDBurgoyne]

Michael Shea It can be done cutting only on one side of the bit with the compound set at 90 degrees and advancing the compound by half the distance of the cross slide with every cut. That is how British machinists were taught in the old days.

[@jusb1066]

yes it can be done both ways

[@stefantrethan]

You sure? I distinctly remember Spiderman was a straight in kinda guy, at least with carbide. He uses the upside-down reverse backwards method of threading.

[@rleeAZ]

Would be interesting if all the folks who you make parts for would send in some pics or vids of the reassembled working machine. A collection of those would make a good video.

[@cschwad559]

Very good, keith, always nice to see horizontal working.

[@austinwagoncompany]

I don't think you, Keith, have to feel bad about stringy wrap-up. Most of us know you're a good machinist and that it happens. Thumbs up buddy!

[@tjofmaine1]

Thanks for the video. Hope you have a fun day tomorrow at the museum.

[@bobmacrae8395]

Thx Keith for another great vid. Looks like your like ur horizontal shaft has a bit of run out in it.

[@evanpenny348]

Yep. Sounds like it too. Doesn't upset the final result though, other than perhaps getting a slightly deeper key way than intended. As an aside the tool maker who originally owned my lathe said that if it sounded wrong it is probably because something is wrong. Mind you he was stone deaf by the time I knew him.

[@johnlanham9057]

Love watching you work! Sometimes I take notes. No lie !!

[@WillyBemis]

Thank you Keith. I really appreciated your explanations of threading, and the part looks great!

[@xenaco]

Another great video and thanks. I must say that I was rather surprised that you did not test fit the parts before completing your threading. Since you knew the parts were worn it would probably have been a good Idea to start test threading the parts earlier than the final pass at depth per the books.

[@evanpenny348]

Had the same thought David. Mind you I imagine that the fit with the new shaft would be lousy anyway given a lifetime of hard use and wear. The best way to approach a repair like this in my view would be to bore and bush the hand wheel and re-thread it to fit the new shaft. Probably over the top for a blacksmith's drill, and Keith was not asked to do this.

[@garymucher9590]

Nice built and I like the left hand thread cut. One day I will get my lathe finished setup and do some more playing around with it. I am presently take sections apart to recondition and repaint them. Yea part of my OCD ideas.

[@jefferdman5921]

Nice little project! Nasty little chips! Thanks for your always great content.

[@shawnstrode3825]

Nice to see the horizontal mill in action. With all of the projects you have going on ever thought of doing just an update all of them in one video? On another note; We have some local schools doing mentor/apprenticeship programs. Not sure if there are any in your area but having a couple come over for a seminar would be value added. You are a wealth of information and they could get some hands on machine exposure. Basic cleaning, setting up, lubrication, shop organization, painting, just getting a shop ready to do work. They could learn and you could get free labor.

[@lecnac855]

Keith Fenner has many videos on straightening shafts within. 002 Worth a look. I enjoy your channel and look forward to your post.

Nice to have a selection of lathes to choose from. The part is excellent.

[@SteveSummers]

Looked and cut like stainless steel . Thanks for the video Keith. Thumbs up!

[@arlynsmith9196]

I hope the LeBlonde is an easy fix, but I have to admit I love to watch you working on that Large and Shapely! You make it look easy but of course I know it's not.

[@johnwarkentinnikiskialaska8364]

We had that kind of drill in our shop when I was a child...I’m 70 now

[@63256325N]

A job well done, thanks for the video.

[@ItsAlwaysRusty]

Nice save of a vintage tool. Should work great..

[@tomherd4179]

How would you have held it it it was not hollow on the threaded very end? Really liked your comment on the "extra feature".

[@websitesthatneedanem]

great stuff Keith!

[@nigeleaton5715]

I do sometimes wonder: Given how much easier it is to cut LH threads on a lathe, why did we end up with RH threads being the "standard"?

[@jimc4731]

Kieth, you said the stock ID was not true to the OD and that you would bore a 60 deg. center to make the OD true to the ID when you turned the OD with a live center. Well, what actually happened in your process was you made the 60 deg center concentric to the OD, because you were holding on that OD of the part, unless you dialed in the ID in the 4 JAW and did not show/mention it on camera. When you turned the part your way the ID was not any more concentric to the OD than the original piece of stock. I only mention this because you are teaching the world and someone that is trying to learn by your example will not have the correct idea. I enjoy your videos. I had my own shop over 50 years. JIM

[@Peter_Riis_DK]

I didn't know you're supposed to hold and support the edge tool while adjusting. Good info. ;)

[@DRrandomman22]

Maybe you could look into having the spindle taper reground

[@sparkyprojects]

Would it be better to stop the cut occasionally to break the swarf ? i know this shows on the part, but it's going to be threaded, and would be safer.

[@bcbloc02]

I actually think the led out keyway produced by the horizontal is stronger than an endmill terminated keyway. There is a large stress concentration at the end of a keyway cut with an endmill.

[@ExtantFrodo2]

back the end mill out as you near the end.

[@sbtl8888]

bcbloc02

[@bxb590]

Another good job by Keith Rucker.

[@chuckhaynes6458]

Some "Non-Spec" extruded steel has an alloy added to aid in the extruding process. Henceforth the gummy feeling. You don't get this in 4130-4140 etc. I think this is also why some foreign fasteners are butter bolts.

[@britishreaction54]

The long stringy swines...I think with carbide you have to work it harder, so bigger depth of cut and higher feed rate, to get the chips to break.

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing.

[@paulkoomen5262]

Love watching you make things, but why Have you not made your own spindle, or arbor for this mill?.

[@fartzinacan]

The gummy metal is a proprietary blend from Haribo.

[@tedsykora1858]

No mattet how many times i have cut a thread i still find it real cool.

[@wood0366]

Have you thought about truing up your arbors?

[@rickswanberg4995]

When cutting the keyway do you have a problem with a burr getting raised on the thread?

[@evanpenny348]

GOOD STUFF, BUT WHY DOES THE CUTTER ON THE HORIZONTAL MILLING OPERATION SEEM TO HAVE A LOT OF RUN OUT? Sorry about the caps lock.

[@georgebliss964]

Keith , I have seen many videos showing external single point thread cutting. I have not seen any reference to the fact that the crest of the threads will not have their radii formed using this method. Am I correct in saying that the O/D should be truncated to ensure contact with the internal mating part on the flanks rather than the crest tips?

[@steventeklinski9585]

George, the female thread major diameter will always be larger than the male major diameter. That keeps the crests of the male threads from interfering with roots of the female thread. This ensures the point of contact is only on the thread flanks. If you could see a close up view of the threads Keith cut you would see a small flat spot at the top of the threads. So the threads are already effectively truncated. This will leave a small amount of clearance for the female thread root. Rounded thread crests are not needed for most applications and this threaded part will work perfectly.

[@georgebliss964]

I did notice that the broken part was flat on the major diameter and so would not apply in this case. I was just talking generally about thread cutting which can be machined with specific form tools which have one and a half threads on them which machine the full form including the crest radius.

[@georgebliss964]

I did notice that the broken part was flat on the major diameter and so would not apply in this case. I was just talking generally about thread cutting which can be machined with specific form tools which have one and a half threads on them which machine the full thread form including the crest radius.

[@tek4]

That tool, center night, is smart

[@kkendall99]

Not going to true it self up if the center boar is critical. In any case looks great.

[@tomblough3257]

You could have cut that at home. Flip the tool over, run the spindle in reverse, feed right to left, and you'll have a left-hand thread.

[@outsidescrewball]

enjoyed Keith

[@ruperthartop7202]

Great video. Thnaks

[@tehsimo]

Doesn't a long stringy chip like that mean you aren't feeding the cutting surface in fast enough?

[@comictrio]

The depth of cut wasn't deep enough to utilize the chip breaking feature of the insert cutter.

[@blankroomsoup666]

Generally yes, however faster feed also needs high rpm which many of the old lathes aren't capable of.

[@JimRodgersWoodturner]

tehsimo 6

[@danburrill8716]

I suspect it might also be due to the metallurgy of the stock, since it was an extruded pipe it would need to be fairly ductile.

[@rickbrandt9559]

CHEEP expert commentators.

[@johnnyholland8765]

Keith...... What happened to your index finger (left hand)? Did you have an injury?

[@oldschool1993]

You can see the ratchet teeth on the handwheel which feeds the drill down with a cam driven arm.

[@Cadwaladr]

I think the feed screw on my post drill has acme threads; I'm surprised this one isn't acme.

[@johngermain3535]

I would guess the mystery metal is DOM (drawn oner mandrel) it never cuts clean always stringy chips.

[@BedsitBob]

"I'm gonna feed in on the cross slide." Don't you mean compound?

[@markenna5955]

That looks like 1144 Stressproof Steel, Darn stuff is gummy.

[@yqwgjsg]

Nice

[@frank64409]

I'm sorry Keith, But that threading was not your standard work. Lefty to loosely.

[@Militarycollector]

It seems that it always turns out to be one pass too much…😎

[@michaelkenefick]

Ja' Nette calls hers Large and Shapely. ;)

[@NavinBetamax]

at 25:17 .........inch per inch per inch.....?? Lol.

[@troyam6607]

poor feelings getting hurt left right and center hahaha

[@charlesmiles9115]

😛😛😛😛😛😛❤❤❤❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@sblack48]

You went too far on the thread depth. I'd never do that. Wait....why is my nose growing......gaaaaaa! 🤥

[@samueltaylor4989]

Old, worn part and you cut to within the diameter of a human hair! Yes you should have stopped and checked it at 80 thou at most!

[@carryitaround]

2

[@tobarapprentice6618]

Great video as always. I have to ask though, and let me preface that no disrespect is intended. You have so many tools, and there seems to be video after video of new “additions to the shop”. Why would you not put some resources toward making sure you had a straight and true arbour for the mill. I understand that getting a new arbour or having one made will be costly, but if you are using these machines to “make” parts isn’t the idea that those parts be as close to “perfect” as we can get them? With a worn arbour/shaft you are essentially failing before you start. I would say a mill with a shaft that isn’t true is like a Mercedes without tires, sure it’s nice to look at, and you could drive it, but really, what good is it? In this case the tolerance on the key way was a “non issue” but what about the next project where tolerance might be more important. Thanks again for the videos, as a “newbie” I very much appreciate your efforts. Regards, sir.

[@jusb1066]

need lots of arbours for lots of cutter sizes, then it may be the spaces causing it, in all, we'd love to have all the tools, just have to make do with what we have now

[@nothermarkgnomex]

Aside from money and time as reasons not to buy or upgrade there is a factor of "good enough". Back when we measured in 64th of an inch one could go for absolute accuracy. In today's world where we can measure out several decimal places past 0.001 we have to think about how good is good enough. As Keith said, run slow and it will be fine for a key way. Consider how accurate a key way needs to be...

[@tobarapprentice6618]

I did say that in my post, that with a key way, you don’t need to be super accurate, but what about the next project? Perhaps the accuracy may become necessary. My point is, why bother filling a shop full of toys, if all the toys are to some degree, broken. “Good enough” is not something that works for me; I’m an airline pilot by profession.

[@jusb1066]

Everything has accuracy issues the lathe beds etc, you work within it and learn to deal, in the real World we are paying not passing the cost to others, it would be like firing you for a rough landing

[@tobarapprentice6618]

You are missing my point. If your mill is not accurate, and you can fix it why wouldn’t you? We watch Mr. Rucker host scraping classes, show us techniques, rebuild grinders and lathes. To what end? Allow me to answer, to fix what can be fixed and to make them accurate. Anyone can learn to “deal” with the nuances of a machine, My mill is a 70’s knee mill and my Lathe, a 1948 Atlas 10”. Beds and ways of both were ground and scraped to “fix” the inaccurate results I was getting from the machines. My point is simple, why not put money into making your machines as accurate as you can. Fix what CAN be fixed and learn to work with what can’t ahead of filling the room. That said, I probably could be accused of “overdoing” things, both my mill and lathe have a maximum .0002 error which for a basement shop is more accuracy than I can “work to”. A good discussion however everyone. Cheers to all.

[@jonka1]

You made the male thread way too small.