Machinist's Minutes: Completing a 100 year old design with a hammer (BB 2/3)

[@donavinnezar]

the beauty of fixing something old with modern machines is you often end up marginally improving the quality

[@lembriggs1075]

You guys are too cool! Love your videos! What a valuable education with EVERY minute of video! Thank you so much for sharing all of this to the public!

[@Etudekilla]

The alask railroad rail cars in the background are such a flex, I love driving by those things.

[@svetkadystopia]

Absolutely love the '58 suburban! I built a '57 plaza into a rat rod at our vocational center when i was in highschool. I just found your channel a few days ago and it's my absolute favorite! I've been a mechanic and heavy equipment operator my whole life and recently been working towards starting a small machine shop. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, you're downright awesome😎

[@HOWEES]

The 58, is planned to get a 2003 Dodge 4x4 frame, and a 4bt engine. I have most of the main components, The 4bt is fresh, as is the 47re, I have a low mileage transfer case, and a 2003 frame/axles, but time is keeping it in the waiting room.

[@robdixon945]

Thanks for the show guys 🍻

[@garychaiken808]

Great job. Thank you 😊

[@bob-the-Millwright]

I have to remember to use the Precision BONKING!

[@superdupergrover9857]

I believe you are referring to _percussive maintenance_

[@theoldstationhand]

great job👍

[@sion023]

What is the most appropriate oil for large bronze bearings like that? I have one does 270rpm, 4½" in diameter with a ring oiler. Are there any oil types to avoid?

[@HOWEES]

Load, temperature etc, all play a roll, so I am hesitant to give a specific suggestion, as are most oil manufacturers. I have seen commonly the recommendation of a turbine oil for this general type of bearing, the viscosity choice is varied iso22 to iso680, the most common would be iso 68. I use chevron GST68, along with other weights, I only give this, so that you have a starting point for a turbine oil by a manufacturer's designation. Do not use GL5 gear oils, they contain too much additive for oil adhesion, so they will erode brass/bronze alloys.

[@russelltaylor7779]

Don't use any oil that contains sulphur ! Many years working as a machine tool fitter I have seen phosphor bronze worm wheels and bearings eaten away by sulphur additives. Best check with oil suppliers.

[@rotorhead5000]

​@russelltaylor7779 Interesting, I had always believed that the high sulpher content oils were good because the sulpher was a great high pressure additive, good to know it sticks to/breaks down bronze. I'm just a hobby machinist, so nothing I do is critical, but the more you know...

[@sion023]

@@HOWEES thankyou for the very helpful input. Knowing little I would have reached for gear oil thinking that thicker must be better and if it doesn't cause the bearing to heat then it should be fine. Maybe i should have given a bit more detail really - it's a sawmill crankshaft, a reciprocating vertical frame saw. Peak cyclical load on the bearing at BDC is only about 5 tons per bearing, and the crankshaft rotating assembly is about 1 ton, so I would estimate it to be relatively lightly loaded for the size of it, but intended to do 1000s of hours, and then 1000s more with minimal maintenance,

[@sion023]

@@russelltaylor7779 thankyou, I thought I had been told something about avoiding a specific additive in the dim past.

[@ryanbutler8724]

You need hi spot blueing for contact check. Not lay out blue for scribbing marks.

[@HOWEES]

That is high spot, I find the spray-on type gives a much thinner, and more consistent covering. The Crown brand is the only Prussian spray, that I've found to work well.