Magnets and 3D Prints Part 2

[@P-Ian]

I really like the esthetic of laser engraved 3d prints in your video, makes them look way more professional

[@henhen7890]

wow thanks for the tip, i was wondering he he got something to print on that printed surface

[@tinkertv]

The idea of using magnets to hold down the 3D print is insanely good! Great video, mate! Can't wait to see what's coming next :)

[@venugopals9680]

Its a great contriubution to the 3D printer Community. Thanks for publish your great work. please keepit up. hats off to your level of work and detailed analysis.

[@Krostheproto]

Honestly, im happy this wound up in my recommended, just got a new printer w/ magnetic bed and after printing the mandatory benchy I was going to try and use magnets in a print. Good thing I know if I somehow mess up the bed's magnetic array is can be restored to a working order.

[@NinjaGorillaFTW]

Great video! I would have liked to see the broken halbach array under the magnet paper!

[@01XxMafiosoxX10]

This video is an incredible contribution to the 3d printing community. Thank you for sharing hours of your hard earned knowledge with the world!

[@Jessterrr]

Good point about the magnetic bed interference. I converted to glass 4 years ago and had removed the magnetic sheet from the bed heater plate. Magnet inserts were no problem but I recently got a PEI bed plate and installed a new magnetic sheet. I'll keep that magnetic interference in mind.

[@sigma682]

I got served this video without seeing the first part so you might not want to assume that everyone saw your first video and include a link to it in the description, as well as mention it in the video itself.

[@batchresearchlab]

Thanks for pointing that out, we’ll remember that for next time.

[@radish6691]

80 seconds in and I’m ready to start buying stuff. Where are your affiliate links? C’mon man, monetize while saving me the trouble of searching…it’s win-win!

[@rubenverster250]

ikr... I need so many of these...

[@rubenverster250]

But you can make and print these ones yourself ;)

[@radish6691]

@@rubenverster250 I can do anything but I can’t do everything. I’m not going to make tweezers or the beeping polarity indicator. 😆.

[@rubenverster250]

@@radish6691 The tweezers are purchaseable :) The polarity indicator as well On Temu/Aliexpress :D But I definitely want to make that organizer ':) The mechanical pole indicator is pretty cute though XD

[@rubenverster250]

@@radish6691 It can't be that hard Let's brainstorm We have a magnet suspended, and if a + and + pole are measured, it would push the magnet back, creating a circuit loop, and then it completes power for a little speaker :D

[@Zodliness]

Question is: Did an unseen force compel me to watch this informative video about magnets? 🤔😂

[@batchresearchlab]

🤣

[@radish6691]

Same! Except I really wanted to watch the video when I was facing north and when I turned around 🤮

[@glennfelpel9785]

Outstanding research! You have provided very valuable information. Thank you for all the effort you put into this.

[@natmickan]

For anyone tweezer-hunting, please note that there are reverse-action tweezers that are magnetic, and ones that aren’t (like the ceramic ones shown). The material is what’s relevant for this application, not the action (although reverse-action tweezers are my favourite too. Just don’t want someone getting reverse-action ones only to find they’ve bought ones that make magnet work harder rather than easier. Hope this helps

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you for lookin' out and providing the clarification 👍. We definitely could have worded that better in the vid.

[@darrennew8211]

It never occurred to me the print bed might repel my magnets. Another way of doing the north/south thing is to glue a small magnet to the end of a stick (think chopstick), then one facing the other way to another stick, and color code the sticks. Then you can pick up the magnet with the appropriate stick and put it in the hole at the right time. Complexify the tool as desired. It makes it easy in smaller builds because you don't have to label things in advance, the labels don't rub off, etc.

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you for the tip!

[@Kori-ko]

This is great! There's something satisfying about that manual operated magnetometer. The only minor thing I have to offer on feedback is that the magnetic hold-down part should be a sub-part of the part you want to attach it to, since that will cause the slicer to better integrate the brims together. It's a small difference but I've been burned by lifted corners enough to figure that out. The idea of the magnetic hold-down itself is really good and I think I'll go and model some for the magnets I keep on hand now.

[@batchresearchlab]

That is an awesome tip and a great catch! Thank you 🙇

[@pipdesignshop]

I have prints with 4 circular magnets (10 x 5mm) arranged in a square with alternating polarities (matching polarities across from each other). I don’t know which polarities are facing up, but they always match up when used with matching magnetic prints.

[@luxnovamedia8092]

These are some amazing investigation, I really appreciate you putting out the time to making these interesting videos exploring the potential capabilities of what we can make with our 3D Printers.

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you for your interest. We are glad that you are finding the information valuable.

[@cohnodonnell9747]

This video was worth it for the simple pointing out of use of titanium and non magnetic reverse action tweezers. The latter of which I will purchase post haste!

[@99NOFX]

Yes I had the same corner lifts. No magnets.always the one closest to the doors first. Your control must include wind draft

[@Jandodev]

This is amazing :) I would have never thought to use magnets as adhesives! I've done alot of magnet inlays inside of prints batches of 20 magnets and never looked this far at it! These tools with polarity checks would be a life saver! Another little trick I've used if you don't have them check the polarity one time on the magnets and keep them in a stack when you go to feed them into the print use the stack itself to place the magnet by shearing it off! That will always ensure your placing to the correct polarity :)

[@batchresearchlab]

That's a great tip 👍thank you!

[@KaliKavala]

The issue with the warping is often seen. If this is PLA, then you should print with opened door and removed glass. For ABS ofc closed. Both are prone to first layer issues, especially with a boxy design like this, which could be solved: - Check infill type. Grid is prone to more internal stresses. Use other type - By default the distance between brim and object is smth like 0.1 which imo does not stick to the model and does nothing. Thus making it 0 would connect to the model and hold it - Use so called "mouse years". This would be the best choice imo When I had issues with small model that was for calibrating it had the same issues. Mouse years on each corner and it prints nooooo problemo. It is like 1min of work in the slicer itself

[@batchresearchlab]

Thanks for the tip

[@WhamBamSystems]

this is truly a remarkable study, thank you so much for sharing!

[@Stormstormstorm]

So many great ideas thanks for sharing guys!

[@williambryce8527]

Awesome video with lots of very good information. Underrated channel!

[@phirechicken]

My guess is that your prints are high infill to solid so 90 degree corners are going to want to pull up no matter what. You need to make sure you are cleaning your bed extra carefully and using as good of bed adhesive as you can get your hands on. If you are using the cool bed, Go to a different style bed and up your temps to 60° c for the bed.

[@eriklundqvist4221]

Did you watch the video? 😊

[@RicH0864]

Useful information in a nicely produced video? You earned a sub! Having a default magnet orientation for projects is so smart!

[@ohernand99]

What a great idea about the warping!!!

[@luisfernandobkumruya]

Corner lifting was one of my most annoying errors to solve. After some studies I found out that it had something to do with the way I was trying to design the models itself. So for me it was basically a new "rule" when modelling parts for FDM printing - I had to make shorter pieces. The explanation (not very well detailed, sorry, but I guess with this little info you can find way more helpful info online) is that the warping happens due to the length of continuous extrusion on a given side of the print. Even with a controlled temperature chamber, a long single extrusion (such as a wall of the long side of the part) will create such an enormous tension that the adhesive will simply not be able to hold it down. Plastic contracts when printing - heating + cooling (I don't know which one you are using - ABS is the worst) but every material has a coefficient of expansion/contraction. This force is exponentially higher with a longer continuous extrusion on a given wall. Easiest solution - print shorter files (and then join then together) Slightly harder solution - take this into consideration when modelling the file and try to design it in a way that would "break" continuous extrusion (the same way we all design parts with "overhangs are evil" mindset for example)

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you for the insight!

[@chuckmccollim]

Great research, thank you for documenting and sharing your work!

[@TheCRibe]

Great video! What laser are you using for the text engravings ? Those look sweet !

[@batchresearchlab]

For this project we primarily used the xTool F1's 2 watt IR laser. Though we did use the F1's 10 watt diode laser prior to the IR on one of the logo applications on the end of one of the black cases to see if we could get a bit of a recessed look. We've got a couple more videos on using a laser on 3D prints if you're interested 😉

[@remoozfpv6611]

I was wondering the same thing. Thanks for asking/answering.

[@SebbyRuiz]

Phenomenal video! You guys deserve more subscribers!!

[@andyb7754]

Very interesting and informative channel, subscribed. Keep up the informative videos, thank you.

[@kevbot.]

Great video! I learned a lot!

[@dennisbourg5393]

Great video!! Was that a xtool F1 laser etching the print?

[@batchresearchlab]

Yes!

[@macrous2120]

You could simplify that magnet detector. It only needs one axis for polarity testing right? This design seems like it’s for much more delicate detection (maybe not in its 3d printed for though)

[@snart]

The part pulling off the bed seems to happen on the left side of prints on Bambu printers. Turn aux fan to OFF.

[@aware2action]

Wonderful content, well presented👌. Glad to have found a sustainability focused channel. Look forward to more interesting content, to enable use of technology for a sustainable future.❤👍

[@batchresearchlab]

Thanks! We're also finding some cool things in the sustainable space as far as materials, design processes, etc. If this is interesting to folks, maybe we can do a livestream discussion or a video focused on some interesting ideas there.

[@aware2action]

@@batchresearchlab Would definitely love that. We did explore something similar in the past. Looking forward to the livestream.❤️

[@TheLittleInternet]

Super interesting and informative video. I wonder if you can make an adapter for the print head to hold onto the halbach array and write gcode to re-magnetize the bed in a more controlled fashion.

[@batchresearchlab]

That's an interesting idea 🤔. Yeah, you can see how awkwardly wobbly we were rolling the magnet stack 😆! Another idea we thought of, but haven't tried yet is to make handle attached to the either end of the stack bolt so that you could roll it more like a paint roller.

[@rky.91]

Have you tried printing the piece without adding magnets? Just to exclude other factors, like warping caused by the auxiliary fan in the left side of the bambu

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you for the suggestion 👍. That was also similar to one of our theories as to why the corner was sometimes lifting. In some of the prints though, the errant corner was in the front right of the plate away from the fan. You'll see in the video that we also tried printing 'walls' around the problem corners, to see if we could redirect the airflow a bit, but it didn't seem to help in most of the instances. Granted, we printed those walls right along with the piece itself (instead of pre-printing them separately), so there would still have been the potential of 'bad' airflow right over the top. But in most cases wouldn't have had the space needed to put those walls far enough away from the piece to allow the nozzle head to have the room it needed to print the piece without being obstructed.

[@rky.91]

@@batchresearchlab usually what I do to manage the airflow is simply lowering down to 30 or 40 percent the auxilary fan. if that's the case, such solution should be sufficient. Certainly different filaments have different behaviours.

[@Wurlipurili]

You've got some style. I want a laser engraver now too

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

This is a COOL video on many levels.

[@NsRhea]

Do you have an stl for the magnet labeling tool? I checked your site and don't see it :(

[@batchresearchlab]

Apologies, that was an oversight 😞, we forgot to include those in the ZIP file. It's uploading now, but check back in a little while. We've updated the link, but we also updated the files so that all the magnets are 3 mm high. That way you only have to pause the print one time. Thank you for letting us know.

[@radish6691]

Apply liquid glue. Printing with a brim is my last resort…I can remove glue with running water but a brim can take some work. Bambu Labs liquid glue works fine; Layerneer works even better and has a much better applicator too.

[@zaka5875]

What is this Goldbrown filament from the part at 2:02? That color looks interesting.

[@batchresearchlab]

That magnet labeling tool is made of brown Hatchbox PLA Pro+, and the lighter areas are laser markings.

[@TheNewton]

The kit for the alternating polarity stack, ala pseudo-Halbach* array stack, to remagnetize/strengthen print bed could be it's own video or short. *As noted in the write-up it's not a true Halbach array

[@LincolnWorld]

Very good points. I've been subscribed since your last video. Glad I did! I never new that's what it's called when magnets have lines of polarity like that. I think that is how rubber magnet sheets work as well.

[@batchresearchlab]

You're absolutely right 👍 Researching how those were made was actually how we found the solution!

[@DerSolinski]

This is not an Halbach array. Just a normal alternating polarization that already helps a lot. If it were one, you wouldn't be able to demagnetize it with your magnets and would have serious issues to get your magnets of the plate. The Halbach array is a very specific *forced* arrangement of magnets, that basically squeezes the magnetic field lines to one side. The net effect is a very asymmetric magnetic field having a lot of power in one area while weak on the opposite side.

[@batchresearchlab]

Oh man, thanks for schooling us on this 😞. Guess we didn't dig deep enough on this (we were just so excited to have resurrected our bed 😅). We see now that the tool we made was a simpler alternating polarity stack. Now we're wondering HOW we could build an actual Halbach array tool🤔...seems like we might need specially drilled cube magnets with the holes drilled from the 3 different axes (in relation to the polarity direction) for the various cubes in the stack. Thank you for the insight 🙇. We'll update the info on the site page to make sure we set people straight 👍

[@DerSolinski]

@@batchresearchlab Building this tool with an actual Halbach array would boost it effectiveness like 5x or so, so go for it 👍 But please be careful they behave like a female dog in heat... Best practice is usually to epoxy them in place. Great video btw. forgot to mention that 😉

[@filmweaver2013]

Your research is very interesting! Valuble info… i can imagine a lot of this information can be used (partly) print in place motor designs? 😮 Anyways, love your video format, calm, informative, cool aesthetic! Ngl, there was a very click baity video right above yours in my feed and I clicked that and went back to come to your video and stayed…

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you. That really means a lot to us! 😊

[@macrous2120]

So does exact polarity really matter that much? What I mean is, are there applications where you need to know N and S as opposed to like A and B? (Still keeping track of the polarity in the second situation relative to other magnets, but not sure which is actually north and south.)

[@batchresearchlab]

Well, it didn't at first, but we had situation where different team members were working in different locations on different parts of a project, at different times. Without the luxury of always waiting to have the parts with magnets you need to match in-hand, we began to worry that parts that were to eventually meant to come together (made by different team members) may end up having magnets installed to repel instead of attract. So we needed to find a universal way to figure out which way magnets - any magnets - were 'facing'.

[@inoid724]

That is realy good stuff. Thank You.

[@benjaminandersen1097]

very cool project!

[@stefanguiton]

Great video!

[@jameslee522]

what kinda laser machine do you have?

[@batchresearchlab]

We used the xTool F1 for this exploration, using its 2W IR laser

[@zackj997]

What laser etching machine do you use to print the text on your 3d prints?

[@batchresearchlab]

We used the xTool F1, using its 2W IR laser, for this project

[@Etrehumain123]

Fascinating, thank you

[@NishitChokhawala]

Will adding iron/sheet sheets on bed below build plate help?

[@batchresearchlab]

We haven't tried that, but if you do please let us know if it works!

[@rayge]

What laser are you using?

[@KiemPlant]

I second this

[@batchresearchlab]

For black and the brown PLA we primarily used the 2 watt IR laser on the xTool F1.

[@dp2791]

Great video production! maybe run your voice audio through AI post processing

[@ne0xys]

I couldn’t find any of the files. Have u made them available?

[@batchresearchlab]

There's a link in the description to a write-up of what's in the video. On the bottom of that page is a Materials Reference link that should expand to a list of details about the project. The link to the relevant project files should be at the bottom of that list.

[@stiljohny]

what was the laser engraver you have used ?

[@batchresearchlab]

we used the xTool F1, using its 2W IR laser

[@Babyfasty]

What is the laser u used to engraved?

[@batchresearchlab]

We used the xTool F1, using its 2W IR laser

[@eric_io]

What kind of laser are you using to engrave?

[@batchresearchlab]

For this project we used the xTool F1

[@B3D]

cool to know.

[@christiansrensen3810]

Well done. Good vid.

[@Dein-Online-Stress-Coach]

Which engraver did you use?

[@batchresearchlab]

For this project, we used an xTool F1

[@traceurAlex]

just dont know how do you manage to make it not lose strength when heated?

[@batchresearchlab]

We actually haven't encountered the bed demagnetization issue due to heat yet (maybe because we demagnetized them before the heat had a chance to have a detectable effect 🤣) . But if we eventually do, we'll post an update. If you do encounter it, and the remagnetization method works to repair it, please let us know!

[@JamezTran]

I'm using this gold textured PEI plate and even when printing with PLA I keep the bed temp default at 55C and never have parts lift from the bed.

[@antoniopezzella2174]

Fascinating

[@rayfungpi]

Base support 1cm can solve it

[@quasarix]

Nice!

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

Technically no Bambu Lab printer has a temperature controlled chamber. Only QIDI X-max and Q1 Pro. The Bambu Labs only retain heat so they get somewhat warm (45 °C at most, usually), but cannot control it.

[@Hyydr0s]

Ummmm… X1E?

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

@@Hyydr0s I totally forgot about that one

[@fatih_uytrewq]

Anyone know about the laser engraving machine?

[@batchresearchlab]

Apologies for the late reply, we are using the xTool F1. Were you interested in which laser it was or were you looking for more info on it?

[@fatih_uytrewq]

@@batchresearchlab No problem. I asked just curious. I love the way that it gives an interesting look to 3d part it was great. Thank you for the reply.

[@SlinkySlonkyWaffle]

pretty cooooooooooool

[@CyberdriveAutomotive]

Is the voice of this video machine generated?

[@batchresearchlab]

You are correct. We are a bio-android techno-craft hybrid, living tissue over a metal endoskeleton.

[@CyberdriveAutomotive]

@@batchresearchlab Okay, thank you for being honest about it, I kept hearing aberrations in the voice and it was very uncanny valley for me haha

[@anonymousmc7727]

Great way to erase you atm cards😂

[@DarkChaosMC]

Good video, but I’d prefer to see a face every now and the speaking so that I sure it isn’t AI. No offensive if that truly in your voice, but confirmation would be nice.