Laser Engraving 3D Prints Part 2

[@LincolnWorld]

I used to teach laser cutting/etching and other tools at a maker space, and I've seen a few videos of people using lasers on 3D printed parts. For most of those videos I felt the way they used the laser was almost pointless. This video on the other hand,... Wow! I am amazed at the work you did to figure out how to fix the issue, and the results are way beyond anything I've seen anyone else do. I subscribed before I even finished the video. Keep up the great work! I'm also glad you mentioned the safety issues. There are many materials that would be severely dangerous or even deadly, so people should always know 100% that what they are putting on the laser is safe to use. Some materials can instantly cause toxic clouds that will ruin any metal (such as the wires in your laser cutter) immediately.

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you; we are humbled by your praise 🙇. And you bring up a good point; it might be good for us to post a listing of materials to avoid 🤔

[@bwp890]

I can't tell you how much I've looked for a video exactly like this. Thank you for recording this. If you run any other tests please record it!

[@Bdiers]

This is a wonderful experiment! A friend of mine recently got the same machine, and I could see many extremely useful applications with this technique. Thank you for putting this out there!

[@batchresearchlab]

Thanks! Yeah, we're pretty excited by some of the possibilities. Since it seems a lot of folks are interested in the outcomes, we may try some variations like more materials, etc. Like, how would this work on wood filled filaments or some of the others. We need to do a little more homework on safety, etc, but man, some cool things happen once you start combining processes!

[@hrdcpy]

You speak with great clarity and precision. I look forward to more projects from your lab and absorbing your knowledge. 🖖

[@sar2908]

Great info, thanks for sharing. Those extra bars outside your scan area reminded me of a similar approach I used to use in my giant format digital print days. We used two strip of cmyk bars running the length of a long print to keep the heads firing. Especially helpful for prints with lots of white areas.

[@batchresearchlab]

Oh interesting; that makes sense. I think I remember something similar being mentioned by one of the vendors we used to work with that handled longer run offset print pubs like magazines; especially for some of the glossier, less absorbent substrates. It's a similar principle, I suppose; trying to even out ink dissipation vs heat. Thanks for checkin' us out 👍

[@MakerMindset]

Your content is absolutely fantastic! Your ideas are original and look amazing. However, what makes your content so special is the production value. The movement of the camera; the narration; the scientific approach; the attention to details... I am speechless! The only constructive criticism is that you have very few videos! I hope that you can remedy that, soon. 😉

[@macman4529]

Never thought about it. The possibilities seem endless :)

[@thatmanfromukraine]

Outstanding results and instructions! Thanks for sharing, can wait to get my F1 and start implementing your approach.

[@kawag2780]

Fascinating. There has been an influx of creators testing with the 1064nm bandwidth on 3D prints.

[@batchresearchlab]

We've been surprised about that too! When we did the first one it's because we only found a few and they maybe weren't answering all the questions we specifically had. I think we were really excited about how you can use the layering effects to create some awesome patterns/designs that aren't just paint or some other manual process.

[@SantaDragon]

Thanks for sharing the files

[@batchresearchlab]

Of course! Hope they work well for you!

[@busyyoungexec]

Awesome Video! How do you guys get the "pebbling" texture effect on your pla prints?

[@batchresearchlab]

We printed them face-down on a Bambu Textured PEI plate.

[@busyyoungexec]

@@batchresearchlab oh that’s awesome! What brand PLA are you using for that dark brown, it’s beautiful!

[@KeylithosWorkshop]

I would be interested to see what putting some really high flow air over the piece while it is engraving... Kinda like if you don't let a really small 3d print cool down before the next layer it can mess things up..

[@batchresearchlab]

That's a good idea 👍. We'll keep that in mind as we move forward; though we'd just need to make sure that the air didn't move the piece at all while the laser was doing its thing. On the same note, we do seem to get a bit better results with the F1's hood all the way down (you'll see that we shot this footage with it up so that it was easier to see what was going on). Maybe with the hood down and the filter fan going, we're getting a bit of heat extraction as well 🤔

[@TheBasedShark]

gotta love seeing the scientific method applied successfully

[@brisance]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@lowrob7661]

Great work, perfectly explained 👍

[@batchresearchlab]

Thanks! We’re glad it was helpful.

[@SamCampbell]

Excellent explanation!

[@labemolon5739]

It is uncanny how I was mentioning lasering some 3d printed parts to my son *earlier today*, and then KZbin suggested this video to me this evening.

[@batchresearchlab]

It is crazy how that happens! We’re so glad you found us and hope the information was helpful.

[@willofthemaker]

This is really cool. Im trying to start some 3d printing businesses and thisbcould be usefull. Do you know if this could work for marking (not cutting) foam? I have some products that use neoprene foam on the bottom tobprevent them from sliding. Would love to brandbthat part

[@batchresearchlab]

Not sure on this one, but if you decide to try, just double check from a safety perspective. My gut it neoprene might not be dense enough and is extra "melty" and flammable. Other foams might handle it differently however. But again, from my days casting molds, etc... some foams are pretty toxic stuff when heated or burned, so just do your homework and be safe. If we go in that direction though we will post the results!

[@willofthemaker]

@@batchresearchlab thanks for the response. Fumes would definitely be a concern. Might need to think of something else instead

[@printasticuk]

Awsome work, thankyou, Subscribed 👍

[@magic1nds]

absolutely love thsi video well put together and very informative well done for your hard work in testing creating and video and teaching structure Kudos subbed.. ps was it bambu pla Black and Brown Fillament you used if not what brand please and thans for your kind sareing of the project files and write up..

[@batchresearchlab]

Thank you 🖖. It was Brown Hatchbox PLA Pro+ and Black Polymaker Matte.

[@magic1nds]

@@batchresearchlab thanks appreciate it going to try it

[@gsestream]

spot electro-plating in copper sulfate water bath, with a electrode point. and the build plate is a copper or any platable metal sheet.

[@terryevans1976]

Very cool.

[@Brocknoviatch]

I am surprised how light a colour you can get on black pla. Would love to see what you can do with white!

[@batchresearchlab]

If you haven't had a chance yet, you should check out our other video kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4nJgaOOh7JrmLcsi=Vtt7d0AS8LCo7KXg . It's not quite as deep a dive, but we do try a few different filament colors. We're finding that results can be somewhat unpredictable and we really have to test each filament to find out how it will react.

[@kesor6]

This was excellent and interesting. But the very sharp noise at the first seconds of the video almost tore my ear drums out.

[@batchresearchlab]

Sorry about the noise at the beginning, but we’re glad to hear you found the video interesting.

[@injectionAI]

Was that text 1:05 laser engraved in your test or was that just video editing?

[@batchresearchlab]

If you are referring to the gold text (with triangles) that was shown on the filament chip around the 1:05 timeframe, that was laser engraved.

[@skallinator]

What is better for 3D printed plastic prints? A fiber laser or CO2 laser or IR laser or UV laser?

[@BojanSusic-qi4qn]

IR in this video but in a different video I saw someone test on multiple filaments with a fiber laser, so idk whichever is more available to you

[@batchresearchlab]

As Bojan said, it really depends not only just on the type of plastic, but also the laser type AND the frequency, etc... Often Fiber and UV are the best for most plastic as far as marking, but cutting is a different consideration. White plastics are very different from black, etc... I will say, if you're curious to go deeper on laser types, capabilities, etc... we have found @LaserEverything to be a super deep resource for all sorts of different setups. Also, they have a community that shares settings, configurations, etc. Really great stuff, overall. We will also continue to experiment, but our stuff is usually focused kind of at the intersection of different technologies, materials, etc as we work on product development. I hope that's helpful!

[@dr-onestuffido]

How about using a laser on 3d printed resin parrts?

[@batchresearchlab]

We haven't tried that yet; but that sounds like a good thing to try! 👍

[@dr-onestuffido]

I look forward to your videos then :) thank you@@batchresearchlab

[@Babyfasty]

What kind of laser it is? Diode?

[@batchresearchlab]

For this test, we used the xTool F1's 2W IR laser

[@Babyfasty]

@@batchresearchlab thks for answering

[@electronicsandewastescrapp7384]

great work, sub earned.

[@ryanslack4766]

SOLID SCIENCE

[@MakerMindset]

ABS is extremely toxic. You should always print, and laser etch, ABS inside an enclosure. Proper ventilation is also a must. When printing with ABS inside an enclosure for a prolonged period of time, an oily residue starts to accumulate inside of the enclosure. I assume that this oily ABS residue is what has caused your Laser lens to fog up. If I were you, I would do my best to stand clear from ABS. 🤨