Mahlkonig EK43 Restored: 1 Teardown & Diagnosis

[@wiredgourmet]

Looking for Part 2, the Restoration? Here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIKyXox8mqZpm6s

[@mrmertah5412]

The video is amazingly fun and useful!

[@TheBigslug333]

Great video, can't wait for the next part. The standard of your teardown videos on coffee related machines is just unmatched at the moment

[@nichj487]

Have worked with these beasts for years (and even owned one), so I’m loving this tear-down series!

[@zamarcha]

Your channel is like a miracle

[@AnikiAtRamRanch]

This video is amazing. Thank you so much!

[@kinnikuzero]

Two of my hobbies in one, machining and coffee

[@The_Coffee_Rabbit_Hole]

such a nice source of knowledge ! i really apreciate this as a machinist :) thanks mate ! excellent job !

[@meneither8]

Such a flex of a video! So much attention to detail.

[@AnOtterCoffee]

Stellar job. I'm very impressed by the attention to detail in your videos. :O

[@eddyindia7007]

Fantastic work. Loving it. Looking forward to seeing more.

[@khungreen9773]

Such an informative video, multiple viewing material ✌️

[@eamobyrne1]

Very interesting Thomas. Apparently even brand new EK43's need a considerable amount of work in order to realise their potential.

[@wiredgourmet]

Take a look at pt 2; the final setup is easier than many believe.

[@maycatyuiop]

Perfect!

[@phuthinhvn78]

Thank You so much.

[@brianchhun2826]

Would you ever consider doing tear downs of those really high-end grinders (stuff from Kafatek, Lagom, Weber Workshops, etc.)? Many reviews say they're well-built, precisely machined, etc. I'm now inclined to take that all with a large grain of salt since most probably have not thoroughly examined and considered these machines like you have with the EK43.

[@wiredgourmet]

I'd LOVE to. I have asked a few for loaners, but no one has taken me up on that. They're really expensive, and on a little channel like this, there really isn't a budget for me to buy them, sadly.

[@bluemystic7501]

That was fun!

[@kaim4535]

Hey there, love your serie. Quick question : My ek43s is starting but shutsdown 2 sec after. The motor doesnt really have the time to catchup (like a vehicule not holding it's rpm) Do you thing it's a starting capacitor problem ? thanks =)

[@mrmertah5412]

Mazzer Robur or SJ Restored please!

[@NicolasChidem]

Hey, sorry for the comment not related to this video, but i think you could help me. I just bought a Eureka Mignon Perfetto and i'm annoyed with the lack of fine adjustment (i know it's because of the 1 spin espresso to french). Do you think there's something i could do to increase the range? Like some mod to make it able to spin twice or something like that. Thank you for the videos!

[@wiredgourmet]

IIRC, there is a limiter on the adjustment mechanism just under the top cover. You can unscrew the adjustment knob to get at it. But it has been a while...

[@michaln.2799]

Do anybody know the motor type and wiring diagram? Is it possible to connect it frequency inverter?

[@happycamper2220]

RESPECT!

[@chongli297]

Yes I think you're right that the bleed resistor fooled your multimeter. Multimeters tend to use a timing-based method for measuring capacitance: time how long the capacitor takes to charge to a known voltage. The bleed resistor lets DC current bypass the capacitor entirely, slowing the charge time. An LCR meter (which applies a known frequency AC voltage and measures the phase angle of the AC current) will not be fooled so easily

[@neffk]

I've always hated slotted screws... until I got smarter. Only about 30 years! A boat builder taught me to drive slotted screws properly with the correct fitted blade and with an occasional pause to let the blade fall back into the slot. If you use both hands and concentrate, results are excellent. In the hands of a craftsman or technician, slotted screws are good. Other fasteners were designed for 1-handed operation on assembly lines, where people had less time, caring, and skill. If the design is good, a slot is the simplest and often the best. For example, my dog's collar has a battery that has a push-and-twist type installation. The battery is designed to use a flat part of the collar's closure to twist it. The reason it works is that the slot is wide enough to spread out the force. Interesting video.

[@havox07]

Great video, I have a couple EKs I picked up and am looking to fix up so this is a great reference. Though I am surprised you can find your parts for so cheap, from looking online it seems each Mahlkonig part I find is $5-20, plus $60 per bearing which would put this far above your estimated $175 Euros, guessing pricing is a bit better in Europe for these.

[@wiredgourmet]

The bearings are standard, generic parts, should cost between 8 & 12 bucks each. Don't pay Mahkl's prices. Stock EK43 ones are HCH 6004-Z, shielded. I'm going with SKF 6004-RSL, sealed, for the same price. I will explain a lot about bearings & lubricants in part 2. (Don't buy Kluber paste from them either; it's 25-30 per tube normally.)

[@angrymurloc7626]

Hiiii I love this video, waiting for part 2 :D I wanted to ask you since I'm a baby engineer (software not appliances though 😭) if you can show the mechanism that decides stepsize for the grind adjustment? I have a vintage model of these (1980s probably, seller wasn't sure) and with it the grind quality is super nice but the steps are huge. I was wondering if I could mod it to save like 4000€ for a new one 😅 I imagine they didn't change much? Mine looks exactly the same only in brass and silver not in black If your vid is already in production I'd also appreciate any input by text 😭 I'm on a really low budget and this grinder is saving my life currently

[@angrymurloc7626]

Oh and just a small detail for historic facts, the unit I have has the grind adjustment on the backside not front.

[@wiredgourmet]

I haven't seen one with stepped adjustment.

[@angrymurloc7626]

@@wiredgourmet yeah it's oooold. They have a small rounded piston thats driven by a spring and sort of jumps to the next available hole on the backside of the grind adjustment. I commented on part 2 that I was able to mod it by shielding the hole area Thanks anyway for the reply and your time and this series :D

[@NotnaRed]

Looks like a solid buy for 500 tbh. A bit neglected maybe but that's expected for 500

[@RoryMacdonald-pfff]

Love it 🍿 👍

[@MillersMotors]

Nice video but that winding looks to be perfect ( I wound electric motors for 10 years and work on CNC machines daily) Running the motor longer than it’s duty cycle will not make it rust that’s just silly.. If the winding was overheated the tie straps burn off first and then the insulation will discolor. No signs of any of that. It is not necessary to have phase insulation on the start winding, the voltage difference between the running and starting on a single phase motor is simply not enough to warrant it. Secondly the start capacitor cannot be checked with the bleed resistor, you should remove it and check it.

[@wiredgourmet]

Thanks for dropping by. Do please email me.

[@Winston_Smith_84]

This guy reads Nietzsche.

[@fungt89]

Its insane that junk sold for 500

[@HamidKarzai]

junk? its got an average amount of wear, its easily repairable, the materials are high quality, it's a piece of heavy duty commercial cafe equipment that with some reconditioning like in this video can continue to grind a lot of coffee for a lot of customers for many more years. it just has a lot of inconsequential cosmetic damage on the outside, big deal