Make Insanely Huge Prints on the Creality CR-10 S5!

I made a first look video about the Creality CR-10 S5 a couple of months ago, but this is my final review of the Creality CR-10 S5 after using it for hundreds of hours of printing.
Models I printed for this video:
Pao bust from Build It And They Will Come: www.builditandtheywillcome.co.uk
R2-D2 Dome from Mr Badelley: / mrbaddeley
Pit Beast Skull from Skull Wars/3D Kitbash: 3dkitbash.com/collections/par...

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

A few random notes: I sliced all the models with Simplify3D using the Chris Elkins profile that you can get from the CR-10 Facebook page (just altered so it would have the correct build area). Unfortunately you can't really link to it on Facebook, but it should be possible to find if you join the group and poke around a bit. I forgot to mention it in the video, but I did occasionally experience false positives with the filament sensor (where it would stop the print even though there was still filament). It was not very common, but it's still annoying when it happens. Still, I would rather have the sensor than not have it. Mr. Baddeley has revised the R2-D2 dome I mentioned in the video to be higher res, which will hopefully get rid of the faceting issue I mentioned. More info here: www.patreon.com/posts/full-scale-domes-16524087

[@jimallen4382]

Mighty Jabba's Collection hi is this the page to get the life size heads etc

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Which page are you talking about?

[@jimallen4382]

Hi for the life size starwars heads

[@Thomas-lh4hf]

Mighty Jabba's Collection .. Hi , Did you print R2D2 in PLA ? I would assume so since the large circumference doesn't cover the heated section of the print bed. Do you plan on installing a new heat bed for your printers ? Ive been waiting to buy the CR-10 S5 till I could find a good sale. Let me know if you want to sell one of yours ! :))

[@adhithyan2200]

bro, can it also make 3d model with hanging parts (needs support structure)?

[@OliverMillin]

These printed look absolutely fantastic!! Thanks for making the video!

[@totalbullion5882]

OMG I didn't expect that! HAHA That's the most impressive 3d model I've seen yet!

[@TheDementation]

I havent enjoyed a 3d printer video as much as this for some time now. I really like how you looked at the problems associated with not just the printer itself, but with large scale printing.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Thanks for watching.

[@slotdino1]

Awesome quality now I’m considering buying one Omg freaking amazing thanks for testing I can’t stop smiling

[@black7monkey]

Definitely looking into getting into 3d printing. Love seeing videos like this.

[@FilamentForge]

Wow that's a awesome print got to get me a cr10 nice video

[@chrinamint]

That is the most awesome thing I’ve seen of 3d modeling, bar none!!!

[@habiit7178]

This is the most amazing 3d print ive seen so far.

[@jaydenpharaoh5028]

Wow your awesome ,this is my first time here and I loved your video, I am planning to whatch all your videos to learn from you .thank you so much for shearing your time and experience with us.

[@3dprintwiz378]

Now this is what the CR10 is for! It's good to see someone pushing the limits of this machine. Good job man, keep it up, and hope to see a full scale model of a superhero one day, maybe Batman or Ironman, just an idea, hehe.

[@billyjimbobjr]

Galactus

[@TYSLYS]

Cthulhu

[@agepbiz]

Crazy cool prints!

[@raymonddunne627]

Awesome print, well done

[@VeganRashad]

Your video just saved me time and money! Thank you! I have 3 smaller printers and This printer will be for larger prosthetic parts.

[@xmanthomas234]

THAT IS A LOT OF FILIMENT!!!!!!!

[@SinanAkkoyun]

damage

[@michaelmundie1590]

How much would all of that cost?

[@johnkkkj]

Mr. This is the first time I have stumbled onto your channel. I noticed the retractable security tag holder on the top of the printer holding up the cables and Bowden tube. Just brilliant!

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Thanks, I didn't come up with the idea, but it does work quite well.

[@nerys71]

Holy living crap dude that thing is freaking EPIC !!! and it looks fantastic too! that thing is so big its almost an illusion. you put the parts in the camera frame and I was like ok thats pretty big AND THEN YOU PUT YOUR HAND ON IT and my mind was blown.!!! holy crap. accidental or intentional the way you presented that on camera was spot on perfect. mind blowing. I am stealing that trick for mega prints. very effective.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Heh, yeah I thought that would help convey the scale a bit.

[@idealmethod]

The more I watch the closer I get to buying this. I was thinking an r2 unit then you started to talk about yours, you got me hook line....

[@DMARQUIS97]

Thank you so much! I have only used the plastic buildtec surfaces on my 6 machines. Thinking about another 6 in the near future.

[@timmc6009]

Awesome video!!!!!! I've been waiting for you to make that rancor skull lol. Can't believe it took that long to print. Wish I had a printer that size. That site you mentioned where you got that rogue one bust looks pretty cool as well.

[@PsychicSwoop]

Awesome video 👏

[@briant444]

Good vid, great narrative.

[@lordferdinand85]

A grayskull castle in that size, wow I just imagine how fun will be

[@travisutkin3728]

WE made it to the future.That is awesome!!

[@totalbullion5882]

Nice, these are the kinds of prints I want to do.

[@monogramadikt5971]

i brought this as my first printer, i was completely naive to be honest, with no previous experience in printing i had truly plunged into the deep end etc. i spent weeks pulling my hair out trying to gain control over it, only to achieve moderate success with the various small prints i attempted to print. after doing endless research online through various forums, facebook groups etc it seems the only way i might stand a chance of moving forward was to buy and install a hand full of popular mods and upgraded parts to ensure consistent functionality of the machine. anyway, two years later its currently sitting in the corner gathering dust. i jumped in with excessive enthusiasm but this machine brought me to my knees after about a month lol, i do plan to try again but ive got a lot on my plate currently and will need to put some money aside for all the expensive little bits and pieces i will need to import to enter round two of the learning curve, wish me luck yeah ;) *oh and if anybody here knows any good trouble shooting threads for these machines please comment and share links if possible ;) cheers

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I don’t think any major mods are necessary (I haven’t done anything but add strain relief to the heat bed cable) but as I have mentioned before, this would be a pretty brutal machine to start with as your first printer. The biggest issue is just physically leveling such a huge bed. Without some experience and a “feel” for how to do it, it is very challenging. Maybe try getting a smaller cheap printer and getting some successes under your belt before going back to this.

[@monogramadikt5971]

@@MightyJabbasCollection man i tried practically every recommended leveling technique under the sun and then some lol, and then the issues with adhesion to the glass build plate began, and i tried every possible variation of glues, hairsprays etc to get my prints to stay in place during printing with mediocre success at best. dont get me wrong, i did manage to get a few a few good test prints done, but practically every time i attempted to launch into a serious print, everything would seem to start nice and smoothly but then i would run into issues half way through the print etc , such as the print coming loose from the surface, strange things randomly happening with the printhead destroying the print etc and the whole process would be a massive waste of time and materials. like seriously, how can a print be going so well and then 16 hours in it just goes to shit when you had maybe 2-3 hours left of the print before completion ??? it was just too frustrating yeah *im also curious why they ship those warped bits of glass with such an expensive machine, surely they could throw in something more accurate and reliable as a print surface ? for me it will cost about $400 australian to import a decent build surface kit from america so you can see why the machine is currently sitting in the corner gathering dust lol. i was admittedly a bit stupid rushing in and buying such a big machine but i just assumed they would all be basically the same to operate no matter what the size difference was ? if i had known i would have brought a smaller one to start with

[@vaughanza]

Excellent prints

[@rhaqbani]

thank you for this great review :-) .

[@PaganWizard]

You can get a Keenovo heated bed to replace the stock heater. The Keenovo will heat the entire bed, rather than just 60% of it, and it will heat up much faster, and maintain temperature better as well.

[@ericarchuleta9531]

dude nice work......................thanks for sharing!!!

[@thebman80]

If I have a spool that's about to run out during a print I just quickly put the new one on and use a lighter to soften the ends and press them together so it continuously just keeps feeding. You might have to use a X-acto knife to shave it just a little if you deform the ends a lot pressing them together but it works.

[@anthonyvargas8145]

I'm going to have to try this sometime

[@Kelvin555s]

Great review. thanks

[@1stage]

I JUST got the CR-10 500 on Tuesday! I'm already a Baddeley Patreon supporter, so I'll ask him for that version of the dome! Also, thanks for the tip on the X/Y Axis movement speed. I was skeptical that a floating bed would handle that much potential mass, and you solved the problem before I experienced it! Thanks! I ran into EXACTLY the same issues with the bed leveling wheels and the strain relief bracket. I'd love to see the link for that, because, like you said, the 500 has those support bars on the bottom.

[@1stage]

Also, how long did the full R2 dome take on the S5?

[@Tao-j3rt]

If it was me: Okay lets do a big 3d print **look at the print time** *"A month of printing time"* ME: INHALE... DIES...

[@ruffryder1337]

resurrects.. buys a big nozzle..

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

I've thoroughly enjoyed my CR-10 and wondered how the big brother version would work out....looks good. On my wish list

[@paul7195]

Best choice when getting skipping is not to cut the traverse speed, but to lower the acceleration so it does not try to accelerate faster than it is physically capable of moving.

[@execration_texts]

I realize I'm 3 years late, but I cant think you enough for this.

[@anthonypon]

hey man pretty good video!

[@skirbs9394]

Love your vids keep it up

[@PinBallReviewerRepairs]

Oh man I need one of these for my pinball machine for ramps and stuff. :) I do not have the money for another 3D printer though. I just got my Anet A8 3D printer just about 4 weeks ago and is my first one and I am happy with it. :)

[@Gjallarhorn85]

The mind boggles... A month of print time for the rancor skull. And I think a couple of days is tedious. Hats off for a job well done!

[@DanielRenardAnimation]

Ohhh, I've really done it now... I've ordered my first 3D printer and THIS is the one, due to the size of it/its prints. Plus two packs of 4x filament in various colors. Set me back quite a lot, but I've wanted this for years and I finally took that leap. -NOW I CAN PRINT OUT ALL DA WAIFU'S!!!- lmao

[@brianbak6405]

I would absolutely love to se a Project where you Design and print a complete body kit for a car! It would just be so cool :)

[@Robothut]

Great job on the review. Once it warms up I will finish my Jumbo 3d build of a walking Silent running drone that I started on my channel. Just too cold in the shop for that big printer right now.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Sounds very cool. I like your channel BTW

[@8BitLife69]

Layer shift is from a moving Y axis style printer. The CR-10 Really should be a static bed at that size.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Yes, I agree. It works for the smaller models, but I think they may have taken it a bit too far with the S5.

[@IDMENTAL]

wooooooow! Amazing!

[@ttandc]

Awesome :D

[@mmnissanzroadster9]

Looking at the thumbnail I was like "Okay so where's the hand" and left with the knowledge that there was not only one hand but two and an entire body in the thumbnail XD

[@LondonMus]

Great upload. How much filament was used for the R2D2 head & when the filament finish on one roll did it pause & wait for you to add more and then resumed printing? Many thanks your work is amazing✌🏼

[@michor10]

Wow, that was impressive. Great video. I'm building a 500x500x500cm printer myself but I'm going for a model where the bed stays static.

[@mitakadan]

How is the project going? I'm quite curious to have a look

[@ryanoglesby6603]

Awesome print...but completely unrelated to that I was glad to see the badge re-tractor holding the cables up...I have been looking for a more permanent solution and it looks like i found it...Thanks!

[@LindyDesignLab]

Wow and I though my fell beast head was a big print! Very cool.

[@jprest13]

just purchased the 10s4... huge step for me.

[@locant23]

Holly hell didn't realize how big it was until R2 came along.

[@etheangel2220]

15:18 Its funny how such cutting edge technology would make use of a TI-82 style readout display.

[@JeffDM]

It's just what fits the build budget. Some competing machines do use color touch screens.

[@peekpt]

it's all about performance, you can have a good display but it eats memory. This kind of displays have low memory allocation. Just a bunch of chars in memory and send it pipelined to the screen

[@ElOndeeadoM1]

Nice!

[@macmund]

Thanks for the nice review, how I wish I can get that big a printer. Can you provide details on how you can get the 3D files (Modular) for the R2D2 build? Since I am planning to do that this year. Thanks

[@mumiemonstret]

15:30 is my favourite moment. When the hand comes in for comparison... SVARA

[@Spacekriek]

Indeed ! When we think in pure linear terms the S5 does not sound that big, but when you start to deal with true volume the prints are really gigantic.

[@Whiteoverred5]

Leveling the bed sounds like fun😂

[@Spacekriek]

You'll require some hair on your teeth, that's for sure.

[@weswesley826]

Rather impressive and I actually gawked in awe at the completed rancor skull. Even though it was rather tedious and time consuming do you have plans for an even larger closer to life size version?

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

No sir, I do not! It would be way more work to print a larger version of the rancor because I would have to cut it up into a lot of little pieces that would have to be glued together, and I also don't think the model has enough detail to be blown up that much. I do however have a different life-size project in mind that might be even more impressive. Stay tuned...

[@abdullamasud4278]

@@MightyJabbasCollection Hey can you link it in the video description? Life size prints of sci-fi world does sound very cool!

[@didierklein9025]

Thanks for the review, the prints you did look quite impressing! i like very much how the r2d2 part came out, it looked quite complicated to print without supports. Im looking at this printer for the large volume, i have a cr10 already (along with other printers) and think it's a good printer. I have read that the bed is not easy to calibrate and that it wobbles a lot, what do you think? Obviously you had quite some success with printing large stuff, did it warp at all? I just subscribed to your channel!

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I don't know that I would say the bed wobbles exactly, but leveling can be a bit tricky. For the most part I didn't have any warping, although one of the pieces of the rancor jaw did pull away from the bed a bit. I think if you use enough glue on the bed it will generally be okay.

[@suncoastbart]

I thought i was listening to Kermits Dad there for a second. If you ever need work, hit up the Muppets man, I reckon you’d nail it 👍

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Devilish Printing I’ve been getting that a lot recently. But at least people stopped complaining about my freakishly hairy arms!

[@suncoastbart]

Mighty Jabba's Collection ....totally a compliment mate, love Kermit. Subbed btw 😉

[@originaltrilogy1]

My wife asked if I was listening to a Seth Rogan podcast, so your voice has many famous associations :)

[@surronzak8154]

1 mont print time !!!! With no issues, my dream , you should put a volcano hot end on it ;-)

[@stianbulandlie2711]

Expecting a life size Death Star print soon

[@tuskawilla]

great video, makes me want that printer now so i can do large format items like the r2 head. If you don't want that R2 dome you can always ship it to me...............

[@legionjames2.091]

The heated bed is good if your printer is in the garage or cold are cause shrinkage of the filament when it hits a cold glass plate will cause the part to pull off the bed in some areas. Heated bed is optimal but only useful for the first 10 layers or so ever

[@plentyofair3845]

I would have a crazy Halloween costume every year with a printer that big

[@petermaerkitz2846]

You are crazy! 👍

[@nachtburgemeester]

Thanx for the video. How about Low Poly printing. Is that more difficult than a detailed version? ( because of the tight surfaces)

[@MatthewsFabrication]

You did an Amazing job, thanks for all the tips for the fails & for a first time buyer like myself to start out with something smaller like the Cr-10S. What are your thoughts on the Prusa MK3? Thanks

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I've never used a Prusa, but I've pretty much only heard good things about them.

[@Xxtictoc1216xX]

10:00 damn that infill tho

[@tobiassalbaum]

Thanks for the great review! I just was wondering, can it print the full 50cm x 50cm horizontally? Or is there a border area you cannot print on? Cheers!

[@Xailow]

I think there's an option for variable infill (there is in cura, not sure about other slicers) so the infill is more dense near the top and bottom and largely empty in the middle. Saves lots of plastic and time.

[@DrewLSsix]

Given the nature of this machine I think it would be worth the time and effort to model your prints specifically to have exactly the support you need without any necessary at all from the slicer. If necessary you might use support on the outside but internal supports could just be part of the model assuming you don't need the interior volume open ,like with a wearable helmet or something.

[@lilithcal]

I’d be interested in where to find the STL to expand the bed leveling knobs. All of the ones I found appear as if they’d be too large and would collide with the rails.

[@Drinnan]

Great video and amazing prints. Just bought my first printer, an Ender 3 pro and it will do me for now anyway but judging by your video I'd rather have 2 smaller printers instead of 1 big printer

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Probably a good choice unless you absolutely need huge things printed in one piece

[@Drinnan]

@@MightyJabbasCollection yeah I was really tempted to get the cr-10 with the 300x300x400 build volume but maybe that will be my 2nd printer eventually

[@Drinnan]

@@MightyJabbasCollection p.s. thanks for the reply. I wasn't expecting it on a video posted over a year ago

[@nicklassayshi]

Really cool and informative video. I'm looking to purchase a cheaper version of this printer (the regular CR-10 with a 300x300x400 print bed) and I have two questions: 1) What's the process like when you change filament during a print if the print is so big that you're going to run out of filament? 2) When the manufacturer specifies print bed dimensions of 300x300x400, is that then the *actually* dimension you can print on, or is it actually a smaller surface? I'm looking to print something that comes close to the limits, and that is why I want to buy the printer. But if it struggles to print something at 280 x 280 x 390 or similar, I won't buy the CR-10. Thanks in advance :)

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

1) You can pause the print and change the spool. If you're using the filament detector, it will pause automatically when it runs out, but as I think I mentioned in the video I had some problems with false positives, so I ended up just keeping a snippet of filament in the detector to fool it into thinking everything was okay. When I want to change the filament I remove the snippet. Or you can also select Pause from the menu. 2) I'm not sure what the exact usable dimensions are, but it's probably good to assume that you can't something that is exactly as big as the build volume. Still, it's not a huge difference. If you really need something that is exactly that size, consider getting the CR-10 S4 instead.

[@seanhornchek6440]

i love solutech filament

[@AvengerDK]

Amazing print. How long would it take to do the finish and painting?

[@chuckarrivas9686]

Try using the variable infill settings in Simplify 3D

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Chuck Arrivas Yes I was going to mention this. Using these settings probably would have been a good idea, but after one failed part, I was afraid of screwing it up somehow, so I erred on the side of caution. But that could have saving some time and plastic

[@hintzofcolorconcepts]

A couple nitinol muscle wires animating the skull would be awesome to see

[@figuresix]

Cant believe this printer is over 5 years old and still over 700 bucks. I just ordered one to do some life size statues, and larger cosplay parts. At least new one comes with auto bed leveling.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I didn't even know they were still selling it. It does seem kind of surprising. I guess there is still a need for a printer this large that isn't being filled by other things on the market.

[@jankoppandi4518]

I will buy this model. What additional parts would you recommend to get the best results out of it?

[@Mike-nk3ue]

Great work! Did you do any modifications on the printer? There are some different opinions about this printer. I ask you because others do a lot of modifications on it and have worse printing quality then you. I am not really experienced in printer modification as I had only Prusa MK3 and all went well with it. I want the CR-10 S5 because I want to print bigger models. Thanks for your help! Great video with lots of explanations!

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I didn’t do any meaningful modifications, no. But this machine can be difficult to use because of its size. Maybe that accounts for some of the differences?

[@mvm1162]

Just saw your video, very informative. Have ordered the same Creality CR105S printer just today as am in need for a large printer than I currently have but for the moment did not want to spent too much money on it. Funny enough, it's will be my cheapest printer yet. Do have a question though. You seem to be printing all your models in PLA. Have you ever done large prints in other materials on the CR10S, like PETG, ABS, ApolloX or TitanX? Only about 20% of my orders are in PLA, but nowadays about 50% is either ApolloX/TitanX and about 15% is PETG. All my other printers (mostly the larger Creatbots) are enclosed but the CR10S is very open. So, would like to know if I can use the CR10S succesfully for such materials as well?

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I have not been very adventurous in my material selections, so yes it is almost all PLA. I do think others have had some success with some other materials, but I know ABS is notoriously difficult with an open design like this.

[@mvm1162]

@@MightyJabbasCollection Thank you for the quick reply. In that case, I will just have to try it. Can always build some sort of enclosure for the printer if needed of course, althoug I think that for large prints that would probably not be sufficient.

[@Schwift3D]

Looks awesome! Great work, but question. why didn't you use multiple processes to change the infill at different layer heights?

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

The short answer is that I was afraid of screwing it up somehow. I do know how to use that feature, but in the end I decided it would be best to just ensure that it had enough support, even if it took more time and filament.

[@tommitchell6832]

Hi there - great video on the joys and pitfalls of the CR-10 S5. I bought one about a year ago and I just got around to trying to set it up. I know - but life happened. Anyway, I bought a PEI steel plate but haven't installed it yet. I saw in another video where someone took off the glass plate completely and applied the magnetic sheet directly to the metal build carriage and compensated the height with washers. Since you have a lot of experience with these printers, and you noted that the heavy build plate along with heavy models caused greater inertia resulting in layer shifts - I was wondering if you think this is an advisable mod. You seem very knowledgable so I thought I'd check here. Thanks!

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I’m not really sure to be honest, but it’s worth a shot.

[@amazac2078]

thumbs up man we done ,i think if u upgrade the nozzle size to 0.6 and speed /sec with temp. controls +boxing the printer by wind or air shield might be a shorter time and acceptable results .

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I've been using .8mm nozzles for my life-size Jabba project and they work quite well. In fact I think it's almost a necessity to use a larger diameter nozzle when printing large on these printers.

[@amazac2078]

Ohh sounds great cheers

[@pointblank8541]

Why do u not have many subs. This channel is amazing. I think that it would do better if it were more than just jabba, but the quality is great.

[@KyleSSamuelson]

8:15 Dont blame the printer, its the model that needs adjusting. Overhang geometry needs to be perfectly straight, you cant print a curved line mid air because its not being stretched, rather produces slack and droops.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

I wasn't really blaming the printer, just pointing it out. The model isn't optimized for printing all in one piece so a few issues are to be expected. By the way, I did print a revised version of this dome that eliminated the faceting that I mentioned. I will post a video about that at some point in the future

[@sandragon2714]

Awesome! Getting one for my birthday in a couple weeks. Where did you get your retractable cable real?

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

It’s a retractable name tag holder I got from Amazon

[@umake3dprinting]

The inertia is a really big problem for large size printers with a moving bed. I solved it on my CR-10 S5 bij reducing the acceleration, because F = m • a

[@raymondturpin3265]

Large 3d printers are best made without moving the bed. The bed's weight is counter to the speed and longevity of the stepper motors. The vibrations and the movement of the bed with large prints can more commonly cause defects in the prints.

[@NoirBeard]

That is so fracking cool. I can't wait to wet my feet in this hobby.

[@paulrippcord506]

It’s great. I got into it a month ago. It’s a learning process but the reddit forums have been very nice and useful. Plus KZbin tutorials. And with Creality printers being some of the most popular printers, there’s so much documentation and upgrade parts out there.

[@andrewgalbraith11]

I don’t know if you have fixed the heated bed, or if anyone has helped, but I got the same error mintemp on my ender 3. I ended up replacing the transistor (I think that’s what it’s called) it’s basically the heat sensor. I just bought an entire new hotend (the problem was with my hotend sensor, not the bed. ) and that fixed it perfectly. Hope this helps.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Thanks. In my case I'm pretty sure the issue is the cable being worn where it connects to the heat bed. I think a number of issues can potentially lead to the same mintemp error.

[@roadstar499]

Very cool giant scull... I wonder how much money that is worth... all that time and filament.. how long did little on take to print roughly?thax

[@m4th1js]

I did get the CR-10 S5 myself, but despite the printer is good for the money, I think it is just unusable with the bed heater it is delivered with. They deliver the printer with a heated printbed and a glass buildplate. For a glass buildplate to get your prints to stick to it, temperature is really important. The heated area of the printbed is only 40x40cm, resulting in an uneven heated bed with differences in temperature between the center and outer regions of the buildplate that can differ 15 degrees. Plus the fact that the heated bed cannot even get to temperatures needed to print ABS. The solution to the problem is getting a 1500W silicone heatpad for the printbed, a must-do upgrade to be able to use the printer with other materials than PLA. I always dislike the fact they do not offer it like that out of the box, the heatbed that's on it also costs money, plus they could do a good job getting the price of the heatpad down by buying thousands of them. I would be willing to spend more on it with these options installed from factory instead of having a disappointing experience first and having to fix it myself.

[@koffeekage]

i want to get one of these for making custom computer chassis

[@The_Wildfish_]

when you say it was going for a month, do you mean a month continually? or turning it off at night?

[@coffinsnail6930]

I got s5 as first. Leveling was not rocket science. Now I may have artifacts in my prints because of leveling but overall I keep hearing it's difficult yet I used paper did 6 different prints before I noticed one leveling knob had unscrewed itself yet caused no failed prints. I think those who test lots and declare this hard to level say so beacsue they have lots of experience and expect perfect models from day 1.

[@professord8888]

You need to print the rest of the body!

[@IanSRutter]

Great information. Did you have problems with the heat bed only being 300mm x 300mm? Your rancor monster was printing to the 500mm x 500mm limit so some of the extruded plastic would not be kept warm. Were there any warping problems because of that? Again, insane prints and well done.

[@MightyJabbasCollection]

Ian S. Rutter In that particular case I didn’t run into any real problems with the heater size, but I think it will depend on what you are printing. I do think that as long as you use glue you can mostly get around it. I don’t remember if I talk about it in this video or not, but the heater on one of my S5s died completely and it is still pretty usable

[@IanSRutter]

Thank you so much. Really good to know. Have fun.