Making a Bustle Era Victorian Hat

It's one of the biggest hats I have ever made, but I could have gone a little bigger? Something to remember for next time! Today I use buckram and wire to make a hat to wear with the carmine gown.
My Pinterest board of 1880's accessories for inspiration: / accessories
The hat that inspired me the most: / 460563499401184166
Hat tutorials on my blog: theclosethisto...
Petershams UK : www.petershams...
Giant paper scissors: atlaslevy.com/T...
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound.
Need to make a block pattern? There are many options, and I talk about several in this playlist! : • Making a Bodice Block ...
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But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching!

[@margaritagerman]

"Perfect is the enemy of done," so true. You inspire and encourage -- not paralyze with fear of doing it wrong or poorly. Thank you so for sharing, your work is beautiful and inspiring.

[@cherylrosbak4092]

Bianca, I appreciate your improper technique, because proper technique is often much more difficult for those of us with chronic pain. Sometimes the lazy way is the only way. And that hat is fantastic.

[@khaxjc1]

So true ❤️

[@foxylovelace2679]

Exactly. And it's not lazy, it's efficient!

[@CandycaneLane999]

My dear do not sell yourself short! You are by far the best at making hats that I have seen, a few high end KZbinrs could learn a thing or two from you!!

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Unlike most other people who make hat tutorials, Bianca (and also Angela Clayton) make hat making seem accessible even to complete beginners like me. And that’s so valuable. I see her hats and am super impressed with how awesome they look, and I watch the making of and think “actually, I reckon I could make that”

[@agcons]

I love using silk thread in tailoring, but it was always hard to find until the advent of on-line shopping. I improvised for years with a good quality polyester thread - Metrosene was and is my favourite. It can be run through beeswax then pressed between two sheets of white paper, and yes, it holds on to most of the wax. I had no issues getting it to mould properly when pad-stitching or hemming, and I've even made hand-rolled hems with it. I defy anyone to spot the difference in the completed project. Tradition should be acknowledged and honoured, of course, but if craftspeople are willing to accept some modern analogues for traditional materials - buckram was originally linen, I believe, and not cotton - why not thread?

[@dawsie]

It’s times like these that we could get to wear hats and outfits like this everyday 😊 that hat is so cute My Mom told me once, “there is the proper way, and then there is your way, which one did you enjoy the most, then that is the best way” Over time we find our own style of making things, as long as it looks like what you wanted, then really there is no wrong way.

[@StephanieCanada]

Me: made terrible hats in college. Also me: here to watch Bianca kick my butt in hatmaking.... and happy to do so.

[@NoDecaf7]

Fascinating, a lot goes into making a single hat. I hope you're enjoying your vacation in The Nature ❤️

[@shelleymonson8750]

My millinery class was also many years ago, but I seem to remember that the tabs on the tip were put to the inside of the side crown. But your trick of smoothing it with water and an iron looks like it helps a lot. Also mulling the frame (covering it with something like flannel or thin batting) hides a lot of sins!

[@CharredFibers]

When you said "ribbons & feathers...ribbons & feathers" at the beginning, it reminded me of Minnie Fay from Hello Dolly!!!

[@pulliss]

Black and yellow colour combination is dear to my heart since those are colours of my home province of Savo in Finland and the hat looks amazing.

[@blue_mara]

This is a wonderful hat! And yes to a pumpkin hat. Yes to pumpkin everything actually :D Have a great trip!

[@khaxjc1]

I would kind of love to see a hat with pumpkin and leaves. Or a row of bat appliqués down the side similar to how she did the cicadas on the back of her bodice.

[@chaeburger]

I have been waiting so impatiently for this video! I love how the hat turned out!

[@ColorwaveCraftsCo]

Using the fusable interfacing to smooth out the brim is actually a great idea… even if it’s not the “accepted “ way to do it, seems economical and simple, so why not?

[@shirleydrake1602]

I think this hat made in white satin and using white flowers and seed pearls with a veil attached would be pretty in a wedding for the bride. A less fancy hat, made in the brides chosen colors could be used for the brides maids. I see this with dresses made I. Your era of 1890 until 1905 would be great for the dresses. Then the gents would need the hat in black, worn with long tail coats and ruffled shirts, maybe with black work Embroidery on the ruffles. That might be out of the period , buts that’s what I see! Someone could make a fortune with making those, if they ever caught on.

[@thegreenroom338]

Thank you soo much for making this video. Your hat is soo beautiful. I’ve watched this twice already and after finding out I have a steampunk dinner in a few months I’ve decided I’ll finally make my own. My supplies arrived yesterday and today I made a test out of cardboard. I’m going to watch this again before starting. I’m soo excited

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@bcldavis5085]

I just love your beaded crafts.

[@judyharter8265]

Very cool looking hat. Really enjoyed your "improper" methods of hat making. Safe travels.

[@Marsenvy]

Ok... Where to begin... First... Your voice is wonderful. Being unique is your brand... *End Of Story* B. I totally love when you say... Ok... Don't do what I just did... *True MAGIC* III. Your gothish 30-50ish style is marvelous... *SO ECLECTIC* Delta~~ Even the outfits you don't like... Are still spectacular... *Goals* Finally... You & your channel are phenomenal... *Thank You*

[@MisSiszY]

Oooohh it looks amazing! Safe travels on your journey and I am looking forward to any potential vlogs!

[@marilynstreight7775]

Loved it. Can't wait to hear about your trip.

[@Tuijjcc]

Gosh! Thank you for speeding it up! What a great turorial!

[@hanananah]

You're not passing on bad technique! You're passing on confidence. You don't have to know everything to jump in and make something cool.

[@juadonna]

Very well said, Hannah!

[@nataliestanchevski4628]

I hope you have a wonderful adventure! Almost 20 years ago my aunt and I made a road trip from San Diego to Grand Junction and back again. It was beautiful, so many natural wonders to experience along the way.

[@rtboothby3053]

Another exquisite outfit. I loved the Carmine gown and now we have another wonderful hat. You spoil us so much. Loved the tips about dampening the buckram and burnishing with the iron, and using strips of fusible interfacing to cover the rough edges of the buckram is brilliant. Thank you so much for these videos.

[@the_internet_332]

This video should have many many many more views. You are amazing.

[@digitaldgirl4459]

Gorgeous little hat.

[@aliloucreations1817]

Awww Bianca don’t pull yourself down , I love the way you make your hats , I don’t care how others make theirs, I’d much rather watch you , I don’t even watch anyone else 😂 , we think your great ❤️❤️❤️

[@hesperheart6622]

This was so wonderful to relax and unwind to. For real, you are the best.

[@saltlifegull4091]

WOW, so happy I found you! Awesome:) So appreciative of you sharing your talent and skill.

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you!

[@lynn858]

I appreciate knowing that this is not the same as couture hats are made, just to be aware of that. But should I wish to make a hat, I now know at least one effective way to accomplish it, which will yield a higher quality and more durable result that than cardboard and a glue gun.

[@willynthepoorboys2]

Thanks for the video and I hope you have a safe and pleasent trip.

[@deborahwager5883]

Oh my, I love this hat!

[@AnneAndersonFoxiepaws]

You know I live in London and, listening to you, I think I may just look out for any courses in hat making or indeed anything to help me, and build my confidence in my sewing. I would have said sewing skills, but I'm not sure that describes them accurately. I am of an age where Domestic Studies, which included needlework and Cooking and home economics, was a non-negotiable part of the curriculum so occasionally, I do find that I am able to do things I dont really remember learning, but obviously did. Crochet is one, I can knit but cant get my knitting tension right so wouldnt want to try kitting something that may end up being a waste of yarn. I can also do embroidery to an extent and can handsew but am actively frightened of electric sewing machines but can renember using a Singer treadle machine quite well. I am contemplating buying a vintage Singer but am not sure whether treadles or hand cranks are my best bet. Theyre virtual Tanks (Singers) and I dont have the same anxiety about breaking them. Anyhoo, you have made me think (a rarity lol!) and I live in the best possible place to find such courses so I think I need to stop procrastinating!

[@judybraden1553]

WOW! That is so cool! Keeping up the good work!

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Judy!

[@kaytiej8311]

Love the hat, don't care about right or wrong technique! As long as it works. As you said, we're all our own worst critic. None of us are judging. More likely sitting with eyes wide and mouth agape. What glory! Have a wonderfully refreshing and satisfying trip. We expect some kind of haul video, you know. 😉

[@Siansonea]

I would love to have some yellow silk like that to make doll fashions. I'm in Denver too, but I don't think I've been to any fabric store that carries that silk. Close to me I have basic Joann fabrics and that's about it. I'd love to find a place that has a little more offbeat offerings than Joann.

[@marimba26]

You can get heavy buckram at Lacis. I've bought it there in the past, it's been a while but they seem to carry it still. Regardless, the hat came out great! Safe travels!

[@panacheluxury4262]

Beautiful work, Bianca! Enjoy your vacation and safe travels.

[@michellecornum5856]

I love this hat. Of course, this begs the question, what is the difference between "real" millinery and theatre millinery?

[@aliceadler4569]

Great hat!!! I know you are now on your Day 1 of vacation & hope you are staying on the horse!!!! Lol!!! Sending you & Cleo lots of love & hugs!!! ♥️♥️♥️💐💐💐🐎🐎🐎. PS. Love the feathers!!! 🪶🪶🪶

[@TheMMFamily9]

How about a hidden thin elastic around the back to secure it, I do it all the time

[@aprildriesslein5034]

All your drafting instruction has really inspired me! I am currently working on some breeches for a Robin Hood costume, which I drafted myself. Fingers crossed!

[@prof.mommyarty]

Love the intro 😍😍😍 I haven't seen the dress yet but couldn't couldn't resist skipping forward to this. I've made unstructured hats but never attempted something like this, it's really cool 😎. I always wanted to make a top hat! I totally agree with Cheryl Rosbak below! I'm not a purist. Yes great scissors lol. Love that little shell dish you keep your pins in 😍. I was just thinking pilgrims hat. Stunning hat, would look brilliant with a 40's suit! Tfs and hope you're having a great trip! 😁

[@melodywatts7322]

We call that a “ Tall Hat” in our Renaissance Faire circles 1550’s on up , I also use mine as a Victorian “ riding hat “ I think it might be a little large for 1940’s though . Thanks for the tips . ( you might try Leko’s for Hats , on line for buckram .

[@caporotte]

I love this hat! Technique might not be proper, but it's super fun to watch you make it. And the whole gown project, too!

[@alexiscarlton1355]

Have fun on your trip! Nature awaits :D

[@lesleyharris525]

Hi,your hat turned out so pretty,I have tried making a bonnet before,it was for my daughter for the school Easter parade,looks ok in the picture but it was a mess of sticky tape and paper flowers.💖

[@ladyjo581]

Love this hat!!! Be safe on your trip! 🥰💙

[@EmelieWaldken]

"Not that I would ever make a Regency costume because me and Empire waist, it's a NO." Couldn't agree more. Same here.

[@narelleworks8448]

Love it as always!

[@jasminnemcdonald94A]

That looks absolutely beautiful. But how was it even possible?

[@TheMMFamily9]

I love your process better then mine

[@wowzieee]

The hat is beautiful. It s great to see your creativity. Keep inspiring.

[@ShineyWrap]

your videos are crazy informative even if its just to watch how you did the pleating in an overskirt to check that im doing right but this. THIS. I may not be make to make as fabulous a hat as you but after watching this im no longer too intimidated to try

[@TheClosetHistorian]

Thank you Laura!

[@kimberlyshutt8171]

I'm obsessed 😍!!! Can't wait for next project!!!

[@theoffkeydiva]

Loved it!

[@MysteryMommy1]

So lovely

[@alexkl6084]

love how it turned out! and i hope you do edwardian costuming at some point, i think you'd look great in it!!

[@JosieStev]

Beautiful 🤩

[@TheDeerhunter316]

Could you do a yellow evening bodice? You could do some sort of design and do Black and yellow to make a BEE bodice

[@emmsmillinery]

Beautiful hat, beautifully made 🖤💛

[@deborahf3738]

I made a hat...once. I think there was a problem with the instruction details, but I adore hats. Of course, after my hat attempt I found several good videos about constructing them, so maybe another one will be in my future. Thanks for the video....

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I totally respect the polyester thread, I sometimes do that for particularly strong seams that I never want to have to redo! If anyone is close enough to my historically-adequate clothing to tell that I used polyester thread, they're standing too close. Also, in my experience, polyester thread is available in a much wider variety of colours than cotton thread!! Sometimes the colour matters more than the content!!

[@PolyvoreThea]

Love love love!!!!

[@suppertimesims]

Just wanted to say I just started watching your videos and you remind me a bit of safiya nygaard love your videos :)

[@Hugoderpugo]

Your intro always sounds like the narnia battle song to me

[@peggyriordan9857]

Love the PBS reference at the end!! Waiting for the Viking plug! LOL! And, what??? Mood didn't have buckrum?? Shame on them! When sewing some of the pieces together, it looked like you were knotting each stitch. Did I see that correctly or not? I love hats and have several, but none are really special ones like yours. I would like to experiment making a hat and am so happy that you have taken the time to show us how to do that. I like the wide brim hats with one side curved up. I had a beautiful deep purple velvet hat like that, but it got wet and the brim curl got wonky and it looked terrible. I didn't know what to do to fix it, so it ended up in the garbage bin. Again, the hat is fantastic and I hope you are having the time of your life on this trip!! Can't wait for the vlogs! Take Good Care!

[@mimzyriepensell1423]

Love watching you making hats!! I have no training at all, so my way is similar to yours in that I do it however it works....I made a Bridal headpiece recently, and would love to send you pics.....I don't see improper techniques, because the finished product is what you desired....it would only be improper if it hadn't worked....JMHO

[@nelekyumakilnoma5664]

Not gonna lie, using interfacing seems genius. And potentially be used to keep the pokies of horsehair in tailoring down (despite using tapes, but still genius nonetheless)

[@mrs.knecro7044]

Lovely! I ha e thimbles but they make my fingers sweaty and they are just kind of awkward to use for me. What’s a little blood on your seems right? I hope you have a safe trip and enjoy yourself! Hope you enjoy/Ed the drive through my state Utah and that the terrible drivers didn’t hinder you at all.

[@TheMMFamily9]

Oh I have a bunch of fake birds , I love them I have used them many times

[@rosevampire70]

I use dental floss as thread for when making & repairing hats.

[@cindyfrye3026]

wouldn't the tip be attached to the inside to be covered by the lining? i noticed the brim was attached that way

[@ginalou5774]

Loooooove it!

[@daedubois9428]

The Hat is wonderful! How many hours did it take to make this, start to finish?

[@FLAMENCODELACOSTA]

I need help with getting the angle of the crown cap even all the way around? Help!!

[@hjordis7630]

I like you just the way you are!

[@Tuijjcc]

WOW!!!❤

[@JoeGosling1964]

Hmm...further to my last post - anybody know where I can buy these scissors from in the UK?

[@ladyduffield]

LOVE THIS!!

[@WakenImagination08]

What type of White fabric is that you were using in the video?

[@vampyran]

While I'm watching the video... What would you call the fabric your blouse is made of 😍😍😍 its amazing.

[@marcco44]

if you are are passing thru pasadena let me know, will treat you to lunch!

[@bast713]

Don't feel bad if you're not using the correct milliner names for pieces of the hat. Some of us don't know them anyways, so describing it instead is actually much clearer.

[@teleriferchnyfain]

The Victorians would have gleefully seized on polyester thread, fusible interfacing etc lol

[@kathympage]

How do you get the curve for the brim? Thank you

[@TheClosetHistorian]

I just bend the wire little by little with my hands after I have it all constructed ✨

[@kathympage]

@@TheClosetHistorian thank you

[@ГусакШалений]

❤❤❤😊

[@anessaharris9947]

😃

[@tracieeaton1082]

G'day Bianca, I have sent you as DM on Instagram about a couple of Vintage hat pattern books I would like to post to you.

[@simonecummings9157]

Three months later Me: ...fezes are cool.

[@juliemeanor6531]

👍👍💐

[@amyjanefrater1447]

You look so pretty in your hat! It is exactly the right amount of spice for your Carmine gown. BTW - I love the photo of your complete ensemble. I went to JoAnn's this week and somehow, everything I bought is red and yellow.

[@GoGoGoLilQueenie]

The hat turned out beautiful! I also just wanted to thank you for mentioning Allyn's in your videos. We have little or no choice for lace fabric where I live, so we took a weekend road trip to Denver. I went from having no choice to being overwhelmed with choices. Because of you I was able to find the perfect lace for my daughter's wedding dress, so Thank you Thank you Thank you! I now need to find the nerve to cut into it…

[@TheMMFamily9]

See I tend to make bands with all the feathers and everything attach all at one time in diffrent styles and leave the hat bare...so you can use fabric from the outfit you sew for it.. In short bare hats and lots of diffrent attachable bands with feather on patches too 😊🤣

[@believeinfaeries8713]

You always manage to make millinery look so effortless and easy, which the mark of a true craftsperson. I know how not easy and effortless it is but yet you manage to make it look attainable. I hope you are having fun on your grand adventure and look forward to your vlog!

[@susiecarson]

I love it! I think this is the only historical hat style I would ever actually wear. I immediately thought of Pikachu when you cut out that ribbon, lol.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

I’m one of those that absolutely cannot hand sew without a thimble. I think it’s also partly because I don’t have much strength in my fingers and hands due to nerve damage, so having a metal tipped finger to push the needle through is very helpful. Also of I need ro pull from the other side, the metal helps to grab it and pull- like half a pair of pliers, really. Though my manicure does suffer (hah, not that I do anything more than buff my nails anyway). I could use the open ended tailors thimbles, but I prefer the traditional metal thimbles, so my middle right finger has a very short nail, where everything else is longer (not long, but longer). I’m a bit vain about my nails, they’re very nice nails. I’d never cover them in fake nails, and I prefer them without varnish. And I used to have the wooloowoo manicure anyway, so it’s not a big deal. Not so much now, because I haven’t dated in hmhmhmh years.

[@mcwjes]

The bird is a golden finch, Washington's state bird. My neighbor has a bird feeder that these pretty birds love so now my neighborhood has a tiny gang of little birds. Not all heroes wear capes. Some lure birds.

[@lyndacarlson7660]

Fabulous as always. I've tried doing the thimble thing. Just too bothersome. Enjoy your solo road trip! Looking forward to watching your vlog about it. Sounds like fun! Take care, stay safe

[@khaxjc1]

For me the problem was my fingers just didn't want to do what they were supposed to. My hands found the proper form too uncomfortable. It actually hurt, so I adapted and found what felt right to me and that was nowhere near "correct." Which honestly makes sense since all my life Ive gotten complaints from others that I hold things incorrectly. From silverware to crotchet hooks to writing implements. I have come to accept it. Now I just go barehanded unless Im sewing through a lot of layers or going to be at it for hours.

[@tiffytattoo2450]

I'm so glad time travel is not a real thing, because we would lose you in a heartbeat to the victorian ladies who go crazy over your beautiful work!!!