Making A Collet Chuck For the lathe

[@musicauthority7828]

I have to say that I really appreciate that you explain every step in the process. including steps that you would make improvements on. vs other videos that only have obnoxious music and and maybe some captioning.

[@ProAudioIQ]

That’s so great. Thanks! I’m just entering this world and learning from you as I do. For the manual threads. Your video gave me an idea of possibly rigging a gravity/spring mounted hand drill in a way that using a solid friction connection with the drill to your chuck you could use either a worm drive or spur gear for still slow, but powered speed control for turning threads (?)

[@jerbylmachinist599]

Taig Tools has a 3/4-16 to ER-16 adapter that, with a small modification, works well with a Sherline mill or lathe. I bought four of them for use as tool holders. These are much quicker to mount than using the Morse Taper because they don't need a draw bar. They just screw on and they are relatively short. But you will need to shorten its base by about 3mm because the threads are recessed into the base and you will only get about 1-1/2 threads engaged unless you do the modification.

[@alancunningham479]

I worked for a company that had a very large piece of 17-4 that was bound for the recycle bin and work was slow at the time so I cut a solid piece right on the spindle,manually produced the correct six hole pattern and made pins.I used that tool a lot.

[@garrattfan]

You start out with a bar of mild which you assume to be round. Ground silver steel is guaranteed to be round, which would theoretically lead to a better result.

[@hansschmidt1961]

I think that I would make the chuck with 3/4-16 internal threads so as to allow for material through the spindle bore as well is have much less overhang.

[@glennfelpel9785]

Good idea for setting up the angles I had not thought about doing it that way. Thank you and by the way good video as well.

[@karlmansson8319]

Nice project! As others have pointed out there are better ways of setting a taper angle. If you don't have access to an existing morse taper to use as a reference (set it up between centers and dial in you top slide to zero on it) you can use trig to calculate the angle from expected values. the taper surface is going to be the hypotenuse and you measure on it to get the short leg of the triangle while the long leg is the travel. Also, tool center height is really essential for turning tapers, lest you get a parabola in the taper. I realized this myself lately when trying to turn maching tapered parts. A workaround is to use a shear tool for external tapers where you don't have a single point that cuts but an angled edge tilted backwards. That way you will always get center line contact. You are losing a lot of rigidity and get increased runout with that overhang. Why make the body of the chuck so long? Nice work! Karl

[@artisanmakes]

Cheers, and thankyou for the feedback. In retrospect that is not a great way to set the taper angle, but I have said to quite a few people, you would be amazed at how close the protractor got it. I swept the angle with a dial indicator and it was to within a few arc minutes (using trig). it probably took me close to 40 minutes to get it to within to under an arc minute, in part due to the poor design of the compound locking nut. And to be perfectly honest this is really not the ideal machine to cut tapers on, I really am asking more than I can from this little machine, no the result I got was pretty good. I am looking into buying a taper attachment for the Sherline for doing this in the future as I can get much more precise parts from it. About the overall size of the chuck, the length is designed specifically to accommodate blanks of silver steel that I have laying around. The length is not optimal, but if I made the collet any shorter I would not have enough room to chuck the steel I have, since the draw bar limits how far back I can have the steel. Certainly not optimal but a compromise for a part cutter I needed to make.

[@karlmansson8319]

@@artisanmakes I see! A draw tube with internal thread could be an option if you want the chuck to be shorter but still be able to feed thin stock into it.

[@artisanmakes]

Great idea that I might need to look into. Certainly wont be much wiggle room since there is next to no space on a morse 1 taper

[@Trevoroml]

Tir you got was incredible for the order of operations Any reason you didn't machine the Morse taper first then turn the taper for the er11 in the machine itself to minimise runout ?

[@artisanmakes]

Hi Trevor, the way that I made this is not the way I would have liked to optimally make it. You are right, cutting the taper first and finishing it on the sherline would have been the best way to go. However since the sherline doesn't have the thread cutting attachment, it just made sense for me to cut all the features on the big lathe in one go. It was always dialed in to under 10 microns, so at the end of the day I don't think the order mattered greatly. And the end result is within the tolerance I need. If it fell outside that I certainly would have recut the tapers on the sherline. Cheers.

[@Trevoroml]

@@artisanmakes ah I missed the fact you had to shift machines for the threading either way the runout achieved was incredible

[@AlliPrice371]

@@artisanmakes I had the same concern. Thanks for explaining your reasoning!

[@rjordans]

Nice one. Another variant that came in realy useful for me is er11 collet blocks, haven't been able to find those for sale so making the was the only option at that time.

[@trashes_to_treasures]

6:40 ah Artisan Makes. The only person in the internet that owns two lathes, a mill and no bandsaw... 😅😘

[@GeneralChangFromDanang]

I would recommend eventually drilling a small hole all the way through the length. Something is bound to get stuck in there at some point and need to be tapped out.

[@pieterbotes8938]

If you have a digital read-out, use it and a dial indicator to set the angle. Most accurate way! If whoever doesn't know how to do it, just ask and I will tell you.

[@jadedelite]

For thread cutting you should just make a crank handle to go onto the headstock, to the outside of the motor, so you can just spin it that way. Would speed up the manual thread cutting.

[@MikeJD-hv9fp]

i am wondering how to manually cut a thread without a gearbox, I mean how to make sure the thread is even?

[@untamedhacker]

@@MikeJD-hv9fp just use a die???

[@BedsitBob]

I'd have probably machined the tapers last because, if you screw up something like the threads, the job is scrap, and all your work on the tapers is wasted. It would also be a good idea, to cut the front taper (ie. the one for the collets) with the collet chuck installed on the lathe, for maximum concentricity.

[@fsecofficial]

You don’t need a Morse taper on it unless you’re using it in the tailstock for drilling. The sherline bore is 12mm end to end. Just add a shoulder.

[@artisanmakes]

Cheers, but this collet also had to be used in another spindle that I had that used morse 1

[@rustyscrafts]

Nice video, though setting the taper angles with only a protractor isn't the most precise. Another thing you may want to try is polishing the tapers for a nicer fit (or ideally using a grinding attachment). I've had issues with the slight ridges from tool marks, especially in mild steel.

[@Fidel_K]

Если бы мне пришлось изготавливать цанговый патрон с конусным хвостовиком, я бы начал как раз с хвостовика. Проточил бы конус, нарезал резьбу под шомпол, установил бы заготовку в конус шпинделя и в таком виде обтачивал бы переднюю часть, под гайку и цанги. Это было бы максимально точно, на сколько возможно. И постарался бы сделать весь патрон покороче.

[@bobweiram6321]

You can grind the jaws in situ using the tailstock to make a 3 jaw concentric and true.

[@brendanshorter5550]

Not if there is wear in the scroll

[@gerrykavanagh]

Nice work!

[@pauldevey8628]

Great video. Yes, I learned alot. I want to make this for my own Sherline. Thanks and please keep up the good work.

[@Smallathe]

Very nice build. Nice and elegant. Results look very good. I'll be watching...:)

[@hogan6216]

Another Great job..Very nice...

[@rallymax2]

If you had made the Morse 1 first and put it in the spindle you would have gained better concentricity in the er11 taper cut. Otherwise it worked out pretty good. I think you have some rigidity problems in your cross slide based on your hss tool cuts. Something to check beyond just the gibs.

[@criggie]

I have a sherline lathe from 1976, and was considering a MT1 to ER40 collet so I can work with 20 and 25mm aluminium round bar. I've been whacked by the chuck jaws once too often. I only have the one lathe so thread cutting is not possible. Instead I was going to buy a cheap ER40 to something collet holder off aliexpress and turn the back end down to morse taper 1, on the sherline. Am I a glutton for punishment? I get maybe 3~5 thou DOC in steel on the sherline, might take a long, long time.

[@nardaoeletronica]

Excellent work.

[@artisanmakes]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@MyRadDesign]

At 3:28, you show dialing in the end of the workpiece, but fail to check the workpiece near the face of the chuck. You could have a huge runout on the part and never know it if you only check the end of the shaft.

[@artisanmakes]

Cheers, but I did infact do this but, like a lot of things it never made it to the edit. Still getting used to editing down 2 hours plus of footage into 15 minutes and sometimes I leave some parts out that I shouldn't.

[@mahmoodbahramzadeh3772]

Very beautiful

[@kefler187]

Couldn't you have cut the M#1 taper for your spindle bore and drawbar threads and then do the collet end with it in the spindle for even less runout ?

[@artisanmakes]

That would be the way to normally do it, but I can't can't accurate tapers in the sherline so I had to do it this way.

[@ParsMaker]

nice work

[@artisanmakes]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@laloloud]

Neat.

[@miro6138]

You should set the angle for the morse taper with indicator, using some existing morse taper tooling chucked up in the lathe, there is no way you got even close with that cheap protractor. Resulting runout is (by some miracle) pretty good, but this is not how it should be done.

[@artisanmakes]

Hi Miroslav, cheers for watching. You might actually be pretty surprised at how close the protractor got the taper angle initially, from memory it was within a few arcminutes. Although I must admit, there were quite a few antics that I had to do off camera to get the angle right. It took about 40 minutes adjusting with a dial indicator to get the taper right. I probably should have filmed that. Cheers

[@miro6138]

​@@artisanmakes Well from the video it seemed that you just used the protractor and nothing else, that's why it didn't make sense to me, how did you manage to get such good runout.

[@artisanmakes]

My bad entirely, just my error not including it. Mostly was done with small taps with the machinist hammer to ever so slightly nudge compound. This lathe is really not set up or designed for cutting morse tapers, so once I got it to within an arc minute I left it at that.

[@gibamec7636]

Very good job Thanks 🇧🇷

[@jean-michelriviere4726]

Bad order of operations. Hou are very luky to get so low runout. A good way is to first machining the mors taper and after, with the morse taper in place in the headstock, machining the ER colet.

[@artisanmakes]

In retrospect I can admit it was not a great choice on my part, but the run out is in no part to luck. A lot of set up to get the part in the 4 jaw to get the run out to less than 10 microns, which is what I can get on the Sherline. If I had the proper taper cutting attachment for the Sherline I would have cut all the internal taper on it. However since I don't currently have that I did it the way that I did it in the video. Overall a well dialed in set up should easily offset a less than ideal order of operations, and the results that i got show this to be the case.

[@desertTooHot]

Nice video!

[@MachiningwithJoe]

Hey dude great work very impressive work from your channel. Your giving me great ideas for my channel keep it up

[@Users_rx]

2:55 software name?

[@artisanmakes]

solidworks

[@theselectiveluddite]

Nice work :) For cutting threads, would it be possible to make a simple crank handle and attach it to the tail end of the spindle? Cheers

[@artisanmakes]

Certainly would be, it is infact the method that is used for cutting threads on sherline lathes. If I cut threads using the lead screw more often I would make a handle, but i rarely do, in fact this video was probably the last time I cut threads this way.

[@donmittlestaedt1117]

I made a crank handle for my spindle to cut a 1/4" length of 1.50" dia. X 8 TPI. My mini lathe has no reverse on the lead screw (yet). It too was a one off job.

[@ОлександрСанталов]

Дякую. Дуже цікаво)

[@stevestevenson6155]

the runout could be better if you had done the morse taper first and did all other operations on the Sherline

[@artisanmakes]

I had to do it this way since I can not cut accurate tapers in the sherline

[@marynollaig4124]

It is very hard to cut a taper accurately

[@WagonLoads]

I liked your video, but why didn't you just make the back end on the first lathe, then do the front end on the lathe it was made for. This should have resulted in less error.

[@artisanmakes]

Because I do not have the taper catting attachment for the Sherline so everything must be done on the sieg. Furthermore with a properly dialed in 4 jaw chuck the run out is just as low as it would be if I cut it on the sherline. The set up took a very long time. It was not optimal but I work with what I have. Cheers

[@WagonLoads]

@@artisanmakes I think you did a wonderful job... You said in your video that the final result had a ever-so-small wobble. (Did you use your finger gauge to measure the spindle accuracy of the second lathe?) What I was trying to say was(if there is a wobble in your second lathe's spindle), if you made the taper on the first lathe, then doing everything else on the second lathe would make the chuck true to the fitting on the second lathe. (The 2 errors would cancel each other out) And if you make an index line where the two parts come together, then any offset error on the second lathe's spindle will be not be added to the chuck if the chuck was inserted in a different rotation from the position it was created at.. -- I hope what I am saying makes sense..

[@artisanmakes]

I understand but I can not cut tapers on the sherline (second lathe). To do that requires an aftermarket attachment isn't in the budget.

[@doug3458]

The mistake I keep seeing when test fitting the ER collet taper is using an empty collet. ER collets are split from both ends and will conform to the taper even if the angle is wrong. Insert a pin of the correct size, or even the shank of a drill into the collet, then check the fit with marking dye or Sharpie. I've made a few collet chucks of various sizes up to ER40 and would be disappointed if the run out was greater than 10 microns.

[@tranphihung3879]

Ok

[@antonmursid3505]

Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇲🇨

[@cucubits]

Does he hate parting tools? That hacksaw is present way too many times :)

[@artisanmakes]

This lathe just isn't rigid enough to part steel. Much quicker to use a hack saw

[@pieterbotes8938]

Virtually everything the Chinese produce needs to be checked. It's not an idea, it's a fact

[@pieterbotes8938]

A 4 jaw independent chuck will not solve your run-out problem if the jaw faces are not parallel with each other. So, first check for parallelism. Grind jaws if necessary. Stay away from Chinese trash collets.

[@artisanmakes]

Thanks for the feedback Pieter. I haver owned this chuck for quite some time and I have machined drill rod with it and it seems to reduce the run out quite nicely. For an economy chuck it has exceeded my expectations and gives me part tolerances that I need. Cheers

[@dariodalcin5177]

Alternative video title: how not to cut precise tapers

[@DolezalPetr]

yeah