Making a DIY Kayak Dolly

[@AprilWilkerson]

I know if I made the legs from a solid piece of conduit, that would solve the stress problem. However, I tried to find a solution other than this because I wanted the ability to have two different lengths for the pinning location of the legs and one piece of conduit would eliminate this option. If the legs were one solid piece I would have to have one pivot point and therefore one length to make the up and down position work. By keeping the legs separate from each other I can have one pinned location that keeps the wheel really close to the boat when stowed away. Then another pinned location where I can move the wheel out and be pinned about 3" away from the boat.

[@SeanBZA]

I would add a wooden filler to the inside of the conduit at the top where it pivots, drill through it and seal with some furniture oil, then leave the rest open so it can drain. As well place a sleeve at the base where the axle nut is, so that the tube does not collapse so easily. Yes larger wheels are a must, though they can be very light as well, not much mass to carry and also low duty cycle. Inside the kayak as well you really need a spreader plate so there is less stress on the GRP laminate, you can use thin plywood, and then use flexible sealer ( marine rated type of course) to bond it in place so the hull does not crack around there, as the top is not really a load bearing surface there without extra support inside.

[@johnd5805]

Hey April. Pygmy and CLC kayaks have plans and kits for Wooden kayaks. Some as light as 30-40 pound range. CLC even has one called Shearwater Sport Sectional that allows you to separate the kayak into three pieces. If you really enjoy kayaking which it looks like you do, you'll find these marine plywood stitch and glue boats a dream to paddle compared to a huge plastic and extremely heavy boat. You guys have a great summer.

[@RabbitwoodWorkshop]

Think all you probably need is a brace of some sort to keep the legs from flexing.

[@parkerbirch1635]

I love watching your videos. I love your workshop, i can hear your echo! I love watching your way, everyone does things differently. I love how quickly you learn, design, tools and add the "play by play description. Your video's are perfect for me, you can articulate and enunciate without your favorite music. Keep up the great work April Wilkerson! I promise your truly one in a million..

[@mortcs]

If you made the legs from one U shaped piece of conduit, you would have to make different wood bracket mounts, but you could also set it up so you only need one locking pin or even a spring loaded detent button instead of a locking pin.

[@joelsmith4709]

Not everything has to be some perfectly and precisely engineered master piece. You had a problem and found a simple solution (the simple one's are often the best). Thanks for showing us the trials and errors. I think it's encouraging to see the process and know that not everything works out right the first time.

[@scikick]

Why not just make a small wooden trolley that cups the underside of the kayak? You can then use bungee cords to attach the trolley to the boat (maybe use the two wooden blocks to keep the trolley firmly in place). This IMO would be a much stronger solution and would put zero stress on the boat. Also, if you place the trolley at the very end, there's no way the boat will scratch the ground. Just a suggestion. Anyway, I love your videos, April. Good luck!

[@4CAMan]

0:40 "...stays permanently mounted to my boat so that I don't have to mess with attaching and detaching something and then storing it in the kayak while I'm going down the river."

[@goodgoin1]

That’s what I did

[@wile1coyote]

Agreed and would take less time to add and remove than messing with the pins!

[@oobaka1967]

That's two advantages of being a big fat bugger like myself. Bending conduit is quite easy and carrying a 65 pound yak is also quite easy. The downside is I can't fit in a 65 pound yak :( Nice job on the kayak improvement.

[@keithbettencourt7569]

The conduit should be one piece. That will eliminate most of the stresses being placed on the axles and the axle mounts and will last much longer .

[@AprilWilkerson]

I know one piece of conduit would solve the stress problem but it also eliminates the ability to have two different positions for the length of the legs. Which I think is more important and the reason I tried to find solutions that wasn't making the legs out of one piece.

[@ThomasBussmann]

Yes, but what if you use two different diameters (for the tubes) and telescope them into each other?

[@linemen71]

April Wilkerson then hane one piece of pipe that fits inside another(a Sleve with a hole and a push pin in the middle) that way you have a solid axle then when rotating it up you can use the push pin to shorten the axle in the upright position.

[@balaclavabob001]

did you just put training wheels on a boat ?!? :)

[@husseinalimamasncgj9345]

Balaclava Bob hi

[@getoffyoubassandletsfish8565]

Yup so she doesn’t try to ride it upside down in the water 🤷🏼‍♂️😑

[@morebassman5860]

Nice for getting it to the lake or river but Saftey in numbers!

[@applevalleyknifeshop4242]

Looks great, check out boondox landing gear before you make changes. It might give you some ideas.

[@sjscreations2608]

One must remember whether it be April or anyone else on KZbin that person can’t do it all, of course unless your Jimmy Diresta LOL, and the videos that are put on are there for our entertainment and sometimes ways to copy. Yes there is a million ways to do many things, and we can only do what we think is best at the time and including finances. I respect people like April because she has started with no trade background and become a multi skilled very knowledgeable young lady that I would pay to do work around my house (even though I live in Australia)! April, don’t listen to the nay sayers they fill some hole that they have inside by pushing their negative insults onto others. You have started, learnt and achieved more in a few years than many of us have done in a lifetime! Congrats on this project! Cheers, Sean

[@Yellow_cub]

Well said!

[@lint2023]

👍

[@cousinfuzzy4544]

You damn skippy 👍👍👍

[@lawrencestanley8989]

So, you're an accomplished woodworker, have you made your own kayak yet?

[@chicagorandy]

I'd be inclined to use thick wall conduit and larger wide wheels mounted outside rather than inside the axle. I suspect that in rather short order those pin holes are going to severely elongate Lots of 'flex' showing in the video which will stress those holes over time.. But hey.. what do I know - lol - I'm pretty much a landlubber.

[@donsdiys1140]

I have two kayaks. For me I used PVC in the holes of the kayak. When we get to the water I pick them up and move the kayak to the side and put the wheels in the same holes upside down.

[@ditto1958]

Before y’all continue to comment on how April should have done things differently, keep in mind that there’s normally more than one way to skin a cat. Her solution works, was easy and cheap to build and she likes it.

[@walter2670]

Guys April is not a engineer, she’s primarily a woodworker, with many many tricks up her sleeve. She said she wants to make improvements at the end of the video. In the end she made something that functions great for her and was kind enough to share it with all of us, for free. I don’t even have a kayak, but I enjoy April’s craftiness so I watched. Good work, always a joy to watch.

[@Mike-rq1pt]

Walter Welch ... There are engineering Concepts in woodworking

[@brotherruddlock8905]

You got a gumball machine in your shop? That's not fair!

[@PhotonHerald]

Also, I noted you just painted the wood brace in-place. Make sure to pull it off and get the bottom too. Otherwise you'll get swelling from the bottom and rot. While it's off, get inside the bolt holes too. Finally, you may want to look at some clear caulk between the brace bottoms and boat-body, around the bolts. To minimize water intrusion into the body of the kayak.

[@jrand2631]

Great idea, but it looks a bit flimsy? I know you can't make it too sturdy because of the weight (no point in adding more weight to an already heavy kayak) but I think you'll need to make it more rigid in some way. Cheers.

[@OneManBandWoodworks]

With less than 1/100th of your subscriber base I don’t really get any of the annoying comments but reading through the endless “you could’ve done it better” posts is annoying, I reckon I’d be like John Heisz and keep posting shut up and leave me alone videos! Good on ya for staying professional in the midst of it.

[@LaBeefy101]

Just make the conduit one piece. Duh.

[@AprilWilkerson]

It's been my experience that only children who do not yet understand tack, say Duh.

[@Paul57T]

Tack or tact?

[@cherylseybert5669]

hi 🙋‍♀️ this is really good 😌

[@dabj9546]

I can't imagine that holding up when you add some bumps and a little bit of luggage.

[@pauldean8638]

not to pull you down but just a bit of friendly advice ,please use a vice or such to clamp your work piece when you use a drill press ,they aren't a forgiving tool when you mess up ,the torque from them simply is to strong to hold onto a work piece, it's good to see your projects and hope you do loads more without having prosthetic hands through something that could be avoided so easily ,yes I work in an engineering shop and drill press accidents happen all to often

[@WoodenBoatGuy]

Just added Scotty Mounts to most of my boats. They work great. Great video. Check out my channel if you are so inclined.

[@karlfimm]

My New Zealand trained ears kept hearing "I'll put a PEN in it". Had me quite confused for a moment. Also, step drills are cheap, and good for thin metal or plastic. Much less force so you can be more accurate.

[@chris4814b]

Yeah she was saying "pen" but meant "pin". Not sure if a localized accent or what.

[@petemcpherson2259]

Very cool! I took the PVC pipe cart route and it works great but like you mentioned I have to find room in the kayak for the cart.

[@SouthernStyleDIY]

Really like this! Solving problems yourself by making solutions always beats store bought (in my opinion). I think this is a cleaver design that does exactly what you want it to do! (comment section is....fun...for this one, but don't pay attention to the nay-sayers)

[@XJWill1]

Handheld drilling of round metal with your legs lower and not far away from the drill is dangerous. The drill can slide off the metal and come down on your leg.

[@Shawn-rq4py]

You did a great job on this. May I add my opinion? I think you’d greatly benefit from having a one piece leg. As they are attached now they’re independent. Should you snag one side on something or turn it around 360 degrees it can twist the wooden mount and either break/crack/split etc the pieces or bend the leg. But If it was one solid piece the chance of twisting twisting the one mount would be eliminated and make it stronger. The second thing would be to get larger pneumatic tires. They’ll roll over things easier and make it easier to pull. This is just my humble opinion and in no way am i disrespecting you or your work.

[@MrDonXX]

Great Video April I did notice on the back bottom fin extremely close to the ground like it was scraping are the bigger wheels going to take care of that as well? Just asking your the pro not me

[@AprilWilkerson]

Yep, like I said in the video, a larger wheel diameter will fix that. Although, in the video the shadow made it look like it was hitting ground, but it wasn't.

[@jamesrawlings8493]

Would just making new conduit legs be less costly than new wheels?

[@MrDonXX]

understood

[@jeremyciesla5798]

Man I made the mistake of reading the comments first. You guys are horrible- it's not that bad. It looks and works just fine

[@talladegadude4852]

Yeah, people can be brutal, right? If she likes it, that's what counts.

[@jbratt]

Good call on using white oak and not red oak. Red oak soaks up water like a sponge and will rot quickly.

[@aserta]

Whatever you do, attack a stainless steel "beak" to the tip of the kayak, otherwise you'll drag it to a hole in time. It only takes a drag here, a drag there to pierce.

[@TheJedc43]

I agree with that..Saw how the tip dragged a bit when putting back on truck

[@shrekwazowski7888]

Just need to move to wheel closer to one side, to prevent the unnecessary wear

[@kayakncamping]

She mentions using larger wheels to get the 'yak farther off the ground, which should resolve that issue nicely.

[@shyrebel8813]

This is such a good work around I wouldn't be surprised if a company took this design. Super cool

[@fynbo1007]

It’s a brilliant idea, thank you for sharing your amazing video. God bless you and your family

[@kevinjasper415]

Always react to see your projects come to life but I have one request, can you make your videos longer. Short ones are okay but they always seemed hurried. Building your. Workshop series was great but you could have made them less hurried and calmer.

[@CharltonLatchford]

Kevin Jasper I fully agree. I often have to rewind the video to understand some of the points.

[@taurushipointenthusiast1306]

OOOH AAHHH ARGGGHHHH!!!!!! I have looking at different Ideas for similar dolly/Cart for my 17 foot canoe......Thought I was satisfied few other ideas I got to tell you the truth I love it one piece fixture accessible when needed stowed on the water craft when not needed got me rethinking...AWESOME and the dolly worked out pretty good to hahahahaha..Lets just Just see what evolves If asked I will recommend seeing April, I also have a 14 foot jon boat I am looking 1 dolly serving 2 purposes? Detachable from one to use on the other?

[@adriansims1596]

My head hurts. Want to see a review of this at the end of summer.

[@lint2023]

Longer down tubes instead of larger wheels will also raise the boat.

[@AprilWilkerson]

I'm thinking both are needed. Slightly longer legs and slightly larger wheels. : )

[@jrand2631]

@April Wilkerson Don't you think that changing the pivot point will add even more stress to the pinning and mounting points?

[@lint2023]

J Rand: You are right. It will whether its longer tubes or taller wheels. Either adds leverage length: ground to pivot point distance. Its an argument for a singular tube but April has reason for separate legs.

[@jrand2631]

@InTnMnNmAz Yeah I know, and I fully understand her reasons for the separate legs, but I'm concerned that the added stress would snap the pinning points, as they're made out of wood, or even rip the screws out of the kayak itself. There is being put quite a lot of stress on those four points, with that kind of leverage - maybe a metal liner inside the pinning points would do the trick, and a thin plywood or stainless steel plate inside the kayak would help to not ripping the screws out of the kayak, when they're under load. :)

[@PaulinaPaulino]

A great concept to fix a problem. Good Job. A simpler solution for the "bending" problem might have just been to use two conduit couplers and another section of conduit... similar to your thoughts at 4:45 . Coupler: www.conduitsfittings.com/photo/pl6419479-aluminum_emt_conduit_fittings_4_emt_coupling_1_2_emt_connectors_polishing_finish.jpg You cut a piece of conduit that would fit between where the ends of the existing conduit are, and mount the couplers to that piece ONLY, leaving the half of the couplers over the exiting bracket loose: this way, each leg can still be lower separately... OR! A SINGLE piece of conduit with a split in the center and one coupler. How would we get this through the wooden holder? SIMPLE! You cut the holder in half through the hole, then mount it with two screws from the top, clamping the conduit in place.

[@KennethSievers]

Great idea and well designed.. Thanks for sharing!!

[@kevina5234]

Dood - haters gonna hate. You had a need and you got it done. Good on you.

[@pierevojzola9737]

Hi, have you tried backing up your vehicle to the water and off-loading your boat straight into the water?

[@twagner6155]

I have used several types of spar varnish and they have all failed. Paint always works better, especially the marine kind that costs $100 per gallon. Your explanation for why you didn't make one long axle doesn't work for me. If you made your pins w/ a spring and a ring device you would not lose the pin in the water.

[@johnofly1lynch728]

Hi April, I live in Queensland Australia & I have only been watching your videos for the last two months... when I'm not @ work but you have been such an inspiration!! I'm not so much of a wood worker... more of a handyman tinkerer but I love my motorcycles & my RCs cars,heli's, & quadcopters so there is all ways something to fix or work on. I am very interested in your triton superjaws XXL but sadly they are not available here in OZ. Can you remember how much it was?? Also have you seen the ROOFUS square & if so I would love your opinion of it? It looks like a quite a use full tool for a wood worker/ handy person. Love your videos especially when you add things like the quad bike donuts when you were building your shed that was cool!! Got to have some fun in between all that hard work. Your doing a fantastic job! I look forward to watching your new projects cheers john.

[@DerikGeddings]

Much like the boonedox landing gear system I've been looking at

[@stevev5849]

But they’ve already engineered out all of the problems 😉

[@TUMOSOOO]

Hola April, soy un nuevo suscriptor. Saludos desde España.

[@franklinfocus]

I’m attempting to build this with a little smaller diameter conduit. I’m hoping the pins work out fine, obviously they’ll be smaller pins!

[@JusBidniss]

While the Scotty mounts would be good to hold up under the stresses associated with fishing poles (even with a big one on the line! :) ), I fear the kayak's fiberglass shell at those 2 points (actually 8 points, since each mounting block is attached with 4 screws) may not hold up over time to bouncing the weight of the kayak over gravels, etc., especially with the added weight of a cooler. You may eventually start to see cracking around the mounting blocks. If you pinch the shell between the mounting block on the outside of the shell and a flat metal or wooden plate epoxied to the inside, attaching the mounting block through this plate with nuts and bolts, you can spread the force transmitted from the bouncing wheels over a larger area of the shell. Admittedly some extra body work involved, but it may save the shell's structural integrity. After any cracking appears, the repair would be somewhat more extensive. (EDIT: I wondered if my fiberglass assumption was correct, and it turns out these shells are actually rotomolded polyethylene, a flexible and relatively soft plastic. So the reinforcing inner plate idea might even be more valid, as cracks in this stuff couldn't even be fixed with a fiberglass repair.)

[@trinacria1956]

Wow, was thinking of something like this for kayak but stuck on materials, the bending conduit idea is great! Thanks !! My kayak is bigger and heavier, a Hobie Outback, so will add a cross piece that cradles underside through the rear set of scupper holes. Also need more height.

[@ytrbro1041]

good job, u may want to check out a working model for a better design. this youtuber "BeyondTheBounds" has a vid called "Boonedox Landing Gear Kayak Cart Review" it has the similar permanent kayak dolly mount like yours.

[@dougrobins8291]

I think you can improve on the mechanical design for holding and rotating the conduit. Depending upon a small diameter pin going through a small diameter hole in thin conduit is not going to hold up to the torquing produced when pulling it over uneven terrain. If you had a 2" square block to which the conduit was permanently connected, you could have a stronger mechanism for rotating 90 degrees. And if you had a steel u-channel with a 2 inch slot to accept the square block, then you would be much stronger. You might even think about using 1'2 threaded pipe with 90 degree angles instead of the weak and wobbly conduit. Of course, then there is the rust that would occur...hmm stainless steel might be better, or even weld something from aluminum...or titanium to keep the weight down. I'm loosing it, so will quit here.

[@ShutterUp]

April, I have a 12' sit on top about 70 lbs. I built a PVC cart that stows in my rear compartment and my crate/cooler fits on top of it so I loose very little space and everything is self contained. My yak has gunnels under neath and the pvc cart slips in the gunnels. Unless it's very rough terrain, I don't even have to strap the kayak to the cart. Slip it off the truck like you do, slip the cart under the back and go. I'd be happy to send you pics if you want, ping me.

[@ericchabot2174]

Nice job April! What type of tubing are your using? I built a PVC version that I found on Pinterest (palmettokayakfishing.blogspot.com/2011/04/diy-bulletproof-kayak-cart-build.html) that does the job. The fact that it's sit higher from the ground, and the inflatable tires help driving around. Compare to yours, the fact that I have the rack more in the middle of my kayak put less weight on the driver, however once on the water I have to strap it on top so it's a bit cumbersome.

[@gerardfallon9204]

Nice boat! Good idea to get out on the water and away from all the other noises. I would epoxy the brackets first then install them with backer plates. You might consider square tubing to take advantage of the 90 indexing through your brackets. I just love messing around with boats. Bsafe

[@michaelstephan7237]

Great job! Looks quality, functional and relatively inexpensive! You built a great kayak dolly and did a superior job explaining the build! Thank you and best of luck to you always!

[@jllaine]

Very creative design. The major flaw I see is that the deck of the kayak won't take having the weight 'hung' from those mounts, especially if there is any gear in the kayak. After a few uses, especially over rough ground, you will find the mount screws ripping through the deck. You can have one set of holes in the legs and instead put two sets of holes in the mounts for down and spread out, another set for up and tight.

[@charlesevans913]

when on the water always make sure to have a buddy with you and always have pfd on. these two rules have saved my life more then i can count. ( i also paddle on river with a good flow so having a rope in a bag tethed to me and my boat has saved me from losing my yak)

[@Zogg1281]

If you got a second piece of pipe, slightly larger then your independent axles can slip into. Then when the wheels are down you could also have another set of pins that go through the axles and cross tube. It should add some more stability as well as helping one axle not to twist if it gets cought in a rut or hole, that way both axles will absorb the weight and instead of one axle twisting, it will rock the boat about a bit (which is fine as your carry handle at the front is designed to move around when carried).

[@thomasnewbery7449]

Rather late to the party, but if you haven't already, I suggest you use "fender washers" under the nuts securing your mounts to the hull. This'll spread the twisting force on the hull. Should beef it up and prevent those nuts from tearing through the hull.

[@christianludvigsen5641]

Have to admit, this is a lot cheaper than a Bondox Landing gear ($250) but mine moves (loaded down) about 150 LBS. Nice job on yours!

[@JustinThorntonArt]

Cleaver idea. Next time when you bend the conduit put the longer end on the ground. It will be much easier that way. I’m interested how the Emt conduit will hold up over time. I’d think that a thicker walled conduit would work better like Ridged or stainless. But that is harder to bend and more expensive.

[@PhilipJongejan]

Some comments recommend using 1pc of conduit. That's a good idea. However, if you keep this 2 pc design, you could flip the conduit while stowed for use on the water so that the wheels are inboard instead of outboard.

[@JUNEORJUNE]

SHOULD HAVE PAINTED THE WOOD PART GREEN TO MATCH THE KAYAK

[@1bakerblue]

Do you have a plate of some sort on the inside of your mount on the inside of the Kayak... To give the plastic some more strength...?

[@trongod2000]

Cool solution to a common problem. Agree with you on the bigger wheel idea. The small ones might be OK on a boat ramp but if you get into anything close to nature bigger ones would be a big help. Just a thought.... BBQ grills come with stupid little wheels that are almost useless on a lawn and worse than that on loose soil or sand. Your idea applied to a grill might really solve that problem

[@husseinalimamasncgj9345]

trongod2000 hi

[@andrewhart5783]

Classic case of a design being sidetracked (hijacked?) by something existing, the best solutions are usually found when you start with a clean sheet of paper.

[@kannapolislawncare2153]

a pretty kool idea. But last month I just decided to go buy one at Academy Sports, when they went on sale. Yes, it cost me money, but!! I Did gain a whole afternoon of boating with my hubby.

[@trevorcrowley2569]

I agree with Len. He was giving his opinion and some suggestions on improving this dolly. I am a big fan of your channel and the vast majority of your topics and your enthusiasm while presenting. This dolly is poorly designed.

[@phonedave]

I'm not sure if you can get access to the inside of your hull or not. It looks like you reused the Scotty well nuts on your mounts. With your dolly the force on those well nuts is pretty much pulling straight away from the hull. I would worry about the well nuts failing. If you can get inside the hull, use regular bolts (stainless) a backer plate, and nylocks

[@alienphysics8592]

to better aid you when marking an item thru a hole to be drilled, purchase a set of "transfer punches ", ... if someone hasnt told you already.........

[@Crewsy]

Simple solution. Buy a new lightweight kayak and ditch that 65 lb behemoth so you can carry your own ‘yak to the water. The wheel setup looks horrible and when you were returning to your truck it most certainly was dragging.

[@derschwartzadder]

I foresee a remake coming soon as you break off those legs/ the screws pull through the plastic. You're also going to scrape a hole in the stern of your boat if you don't fix the rotation/angle of your wheel legs. It's a good idea overall, but you need to take another crack at the implementation.

[@mrprimenumbers6448]

You should try making the wheel bar one whole piece an then make your brackets in two half's a top and a bottom. Then put it all together. It will give your wheels more strength, possibly reduce the load weight.

[@evolutionglitch4739]

Make a 2.0 version of the video. Then u can make a U shape with conduit. Attach it to the very back of the boat and the wheels I tube down position will just flip 270° to have the wheels rest on the boat.

[@stevewalston7089]

Should consider using a single piece of conduit rather than two, although the bends will get trickier. Also, larger wheels will roll over smaller obstacles (like stones or sticks) without skidding.

[@103m95g]

April is that a Spyderco Delica in your pocket? find a mower some one is throwing out, and salvage the large back wheels, they should be tall enough

[@nevillemadden5210]

You painted the visible parts of he timber, but did you paint the bottom of the braces and the parts of the braces and the cross member that join together !? ... They are he parts that will be more vulnerable to being affected by water.

[@georgefeary4277]

Drill a hole for the pen.love the texas speak. How about using bead and hole stops like you would see on canes and walkers. Rotate wheels out of way when not using , click when u rotate into position. Lengthen arms that way too.that can also raise height, stop scraping bottom.

[@steviemanzoeillo2238]

I am made two wheels with Kayak ,I am happy river/fishing. You good ides make two wheels with woods Kayak that Cool April

[@chevymarineretired]

Mount your wood blocks, then take a straight edge across both and draw a line. Drill your holes in line with the line you put on the blocks. Run your conduit with a bolt with the head cut off between the two ends. Drill and pin with a cotter pin. You won't need the board across the top.

[@hmarshall9x19]

several people have recommended a one piece axle, i disagree, the two piece allows you to move the wheels in towards the center of the boat when you flip them up. however, using a flat board across the top like that is forcing the same deforming of the top of the kayak that you had before the board was attached. i think you should have contoured the base or mounts or the top so it would not deform. also, since its multi position, you could also add outriggers (not sure thats the correct term) for more stability.

[@curtfatherree7474]

That conduit bend you did shortly after the 2:20 mark might have been easier if you'd put the bender on so the 'long side' was on the floor instead of the 'short side', which would give you a bit more leverage to complete the bend.

[@jswinsphoto]

Hey!! You probably have - but if not - you should check out a Pack Canoe!! You can get them under 30 lbs!!!

[@willr322gt]

Great work. Bigger wheels should lift it up a bit more off the ground. The only thing that does worry me a bit is the amount of bouncing it does. Sooner or later and hoping not something is gonna bend or break. Rather than that great job.

[@danieldibiaso9342]

Good job April. What if the legs were extended to about a few inches of each other and use a coupling of sorts like electricians use to secure the legs. I think that would make the legs sturdier not just relying on one point if contact.

[@jasonbice1103]

bevel the bottom of your wooden block to match the contour of the top of the yak so that your opposite hole is straight across and on the same plane, you would have to slip your blocks on before you bend them, and in stead of larger wheels just lengthen your conduit legs.

[@johnlittle1137]

Just an observation good idea but! April your height dragging the boat will it not grind away the hull on the back end of the boat, just an observation 😜

[@jamesautry7432]

I noticed the keel scraping the ground as you were putting it in the truck. I would either lengthen the wheel leg and/ install a keel guard.....nice job

[@TheSeancassady]

I bet you could make something much smaller that would fit right at the end of the kayak where the weight of the kayak would just rest on the "dolly" as you pulled it. Then you would just set it in the netting area you placed your cooler or make it so you could just rotate it around so it was on top while you are on the water maybe with a small bracket just to hold it.

[@jerrybrownell5682]

Might need something on the bottom to prevent a hole being worn into it. It seemed it was rubbing just a bit on transfers/slopes. Also maybe two tubes of different size that overlap and then pinned or screwed in the middle together to relieve stress. Great idea

[@JointerMark]

This is a great idea, I am fortunate enough that I can lift and stow my 'yak on my roof rack. Does the weight of the wheels affect the balance much? Does it roll as easily as before the wheels?

[@markbucci2172]

Like the idea. I was thinking of making some canoe stabilizers for fishing. I may use this concept and incorporate it into the design. Thanks!

[@linemen71]

Why not make it using a single piece of pipe? It’ll be stronger and no need for the brace at the top you had to put in. Just slide the wood mounts on the pipe then make your bends. That way the wood mounts are trapped where they need to be

[@mansurnasyrov8329]

This tool is very expensive,I can not afford it,although I dream of such a tool, I'm also a novice joiner.

[@hardrockminer-50]

Now, someone might have said this but, if those wheels were the wide air or foam filled, they'd flaot right over the sand and on the water they'd be outriggers...

[@oscarbarbero5180]

Feliz año buenísimo te felicito de Argentina

[@RobGrognerd]

maybe keep the legs the same length, but go with larger tires mounted on the OUTSIDE of the legs

[@kassiman5307]

*A VERY INTERESTING VIDEO .... THANKS FOR THAT ....!!!!*

[@damianxarni6585]

But add a new pieces don't change the balance centre of the kayak? The physic? I don't know nothing about kayak :D

[@thiodorchalkias8906]

The legs are sort!!! If you see you have already destroy the back end of your kayak on the concrete of the ramp!!!