Making a DIY Kayak Dolly

[@AprilWilkerson]

I know if I made the legs from a solid piece of conduit, that would solve the stress problem. However, I tried to find a solution other than this because I wanted the ability to have two different lengths for the pinning location of the legs and one piece of conduit would eliminate this option. If the legs were one solid piece I would have to have one pivot point and therefore one length to make the up and down position work. By keeping the legs separate from each other I can have one pinned location that keeps the wheel really close to the boat when stowed away. Then another pinned location where I can move the wheel out and be pinned about 3" away from the boat.

[@SeanBZA]

I would add a wooden filler to the inside of the conduit at the top where it pivots, drill through it and seal with some furniture oil, then leave the rest open so it can drain. As well place a sleeve at the base where the axle nut is, so that the tube does not collapse so easily. Yes larger wheels are a must, though they can be very light as well, not much mass to carry and also low duty cycle. Inside the kayak as well you really need a spreader plate so there is less stress on the GRP laminate, you can use thin plywood, and then use flexible sealer ( marine rated type of course) to bond it in place so the hull does not crack around there, as the top is not really a load bearing surface there without extra support inside.

[@johnd5805]

Hey April. Pygmy and CLC kayaks have plans and kits for Wooden kayaks. Some as light as 30-40 pound range. CLC even has one called Shearwater Sport Sectional that allows you to separate the kayak into three pieces. If you really enjoy kayaking which it looks like you do, you'll find these marine plywood stitch and glue boats a dream to paddle compared to a huge plastic and extremely heavy boat. You guys have a great summer.

[@RabbitwoodWorkshop]

Think all you probably need is a brace of some sort to keep the legs from flexing.

[@parkerbirch1635]

I love watching your videos. I love your workshop, i can hear your echo! I love watching your way, everyone does things differently. I love how quickly you learn, design, tools and add the "play by play description. Your video's are perfect for me, you can articulate and enunciate without your favorite music. Keep up the great work April Wilkerson! I promise your truly one in a million..

[@mortcs]

If you made the legs from one U shaped piece of conduit, you would have to make different wood bracket mounts, but you could also set it up so you only need one locking pin or even a spring loaded detent button instead of a locking pin.

[@philod902]

I used three different yard sale/trash picked golf carts and three different configurations before I got an assembly that worked well on all types of terrain. The secret to durability turned out to be an old heavy duty cast aluminum cart for 5 bucks from a yard sale, some PVC pipe, a pool noodle, screw eyes, and ratchet cords. I'm no engineer either, but that's part of the fun and satisfaction, solving problems on the fly. Nice work April.

[@joelsmith4709]

Not everything has to be some perfectly and precisely engineered master piece. You had a problem and found a simple solution (the simple one's are often the best). Thanks for showing us the trials and errors. I think it's encouraging to see the process and know that not everything works out right the first time.

[@kevinmcmanus876]

A couple of suggestions! I would definitely connect the two wheel assemblies with a cross bar or better yet, make one continuous axel. It would reinforce everything and not put as much flex on the body of the Kayak and the wheel assembly. Another suggestion would be to reinforce the mounting brackets with a piece of aluminum plate or even a 3/4" wood plate on the inside of the kayak under the mounts (providing you have access). This would also prevent the shell of the kayak from flexing and possibly tearing out down the road (which would totally suck). Bigger wheels definitely! Pulling the Kayak across smooth pavement is one thing, but pulling it across rugged uneven terrain is another thing. This puts tremendous stress on the whole assembly. Overall, good job!!!!! Love seeing the Ladies get involved in DYI stuff!!!

[@elhigh]

Hi April, Another suggestion to improve your dolly legs: stuff 'em. Get or make some dowels that you can shove/pound into the conduit where it connects to the yak mounts. Insert the dowels with a liberal slathering of waterproof glue or epoxy. THEN drill through after the adhesive has cured. The conduit is experiencing pretty high torque right there at the mounts and though it's steel, it isn't great steel and likely to tear, especially if you're putting a cooler in the boat tool. Adding the filler dowel will transfer some of the torque to the rest of the surrounding conduit material and it should hold up a lot better.

[@NiteWolfeFishing]

I applaud your resourcefulness!!! I great first attempt at a diy landing system! As you said at the end you already see some room for improvements. Without having read all the comments (there are a lot of them lol) here are my list of ideas. Once you got it all figured out scrap the wood idea. As a wood worker myself i love wood. But it just doesnt hold up well for this. Find something stronger than the conduct. Maybe some ss tubing. I personally went with square tubing. This allowed for a down and a up with out having all the stress placed on a pin and the holes for the pin. You still want the pins but in this case there just insure the legs dont slip out. They bear no load. You can find 2 sizes that slip into each other. And do make the larger one go full length between the 2 mounts. This is going to involve some welding. If you dont have a welder you can get a harbor freight one cheap or find a local small weld shop. The welds dont have to be pretty and basic welding is easy to learn. After seeing your skill with wood working i fully believe a person such as your self could learn the basics in a few mins. This is how i did mine and you can see some of it on my full build video. But a better example of a professional version would be to look up the blue sky boat works system. TIRES!!! as you already noticed those narrow tires are no good off pavement. I wold personally recommend the inflate ones from HF. They are only 4 bucks each. Good luck with your adventures!!!

[@augustreil]

Pretty cool build ! I have 2 aluminum Grumman canoes and I'm always modifying them...lowering the seats for better stability, rebuilt the transom to accept a bigger motor, little corner shelves made from aluminum for holding my beer or whatever. Never once have I been able to do those modifications on the first shot, so you're not alone. Trial and error. lol I think you did a really good job for the first time, thumbs up !

[@AprilWilkerson]

That sounds awesome. Thank you!

[@applevalleyknifeshop4242]

Looks great, check out boondox landing gear before you make changes. It might give you some ideas.

[@johnbrooks1269]

Thank you April, a creative solution and I know you will improve on it, that's your nature. Point to ponder; conduit is not engineered to flex so watch for cracks, also you are a welder consider using two sizes of square tubing one for the axle and the other for removable wheel mounts. Using pneumatic tires will lesson shock on the attachment points and placing the wheels on the outside will clear the Yak and provide stability. Looking forward to the next VOD. Cheers...

[@scottbowers7875]

Nice build. I always appreciate how you are not afraid to use new materials and tools. This was a good solution to your problem.

[@johnchan6191]

Wow, gr8 dolly & gr8 innovation in making the dolly. Thx 4 showing your building process with the internet. Have fun kayaking.

[@hudsonriverlee]

April, search for Pit pins. They have push buttons on top which push a rod down with notched in them, they allow small ball bearing type ball to fall into the notch. When you release the push pin, the balls are pushed back out.. as well, they typically come with rings to attach a small cable or braided line. Nice design,, looks tidy and fitting for your craft.

[@laurijorgenson6683]

Funny, I was just thinking of making something like this the other day and here it is! Love your ingenuity and tenacity with trying different things. It’s refreshing that you share the goods, the bads and the uglies with us so we can determine our courses of action relative to yours. Thanks April and keep them coming. You’re amazing.

[@WendiAlene]

Try swapping the wheels out with a pair from a golf pull cart maybe? I’ve been toying with different ideas for something like what you made but while watching your video it hit me. Wheels from an old golf pull cart! I shall commence to tinkering! Love your videos!

[@keithbettencourt7569]

Might I suggest a compromise for the conduit axles that will give you more stability AND allow you to slide the wheels in and out? Redesign the wood mounts to hold a 3/4" straight conduit. The two 1/2" conduit axels will slide and rotate inside this allowing the wheels to be adjustable for rotation and width. I'll draw it up for you, if you would like.

[@trinacria1956]

Wow, was thinking of something like this for kayak but stuck on materials, the bending conduit idea is great! Thanks !! My kayak is bigger and heavier, a Hobie Outback, so will add a cross piece that cradles underside through the rear set of scupper holes. Also need more height.

[@skiddytwin4759]

I kayak by myself a lot. I have a wheel thing for my kayak.....but I didn’t make it myself. I admire your independence. Good job

[@petemcpherson2259]

Very cool! I took the PVC pipe cart route and it works great but like you mentioned I have to find room in the kayak for the cart.

[@gerardfallon9204]

Nice boat! Good idea to get out on the water and away from all the other noises. I would epoxy the brackets first then install them with backer plates. You might consider square tubing to take advantage of the 90 indexing through your brackets. I just love messing around with boats. Bsafe

[@fcschoenthal]

Nice project and love to see your showing the issues and how you work through them instead of just showing a finished working project. Keep the mind working and nimble and the rest will follow.

[@donsdiys1140]

I have two kayaks. For me I used PVC in the holes of the kayak. When we get to the water I pick them up and move the kayak to the side and put the wheels in the same holes upside down.

[@LariTanner]

You are amazing and I can't wait to see the collab with you and your bestie!! Safe travels! I learn so much from you and to think I found you a few months ago when I was trying to convince my husband that he should build me a patio cover. I found your video you did on your old house and we both watched, and now we are hooked! We are so inspired by you!! Thanks so much for all your videos and just for helping us to see that we can do it and it's not too late to learn. He and I just finished building a coffee table together thanks to your inspiration!

[@ShutterUp]

April, I have a 12' sit on top about 70 lbs. I built a PVC cart that stows in my rear compartment and my crate/cooler fits on top of it so I loose very little space and everything is self contained. My yak has gunnels under neath and the pvc cart slips in the gunnels. Unless it's very rough terrain, I don't even have to strap the kayak to the cart. Slip it off the truck like you do, slip the cart under the back and go. I'd be happy to send you pics if you want, ping me.

[@thomasnewbery7449]

Rather late to the party, but if you haven't already, I suggest you use "fender washers" under the nuts securing your mounts to the hull. This'll spread the twisting force on the hull. Should beef it up and prevent those nuts from tearing through the hull.

[@ianmyers1593]

April nice work,try spraying the EMT with zink-it . Drilling and cutting conduit removes the galvanized coating and it would start to rust over time...

[@NateBury]

Cool build I understand why you went with the two arms instead of the single. I've seen kayak dollies before they keep the wheels closer to the end which I think helps with clearance and mobility

[@shyrebel8813]

This is such a good work around I wouldn't be surprised if a company took this design. Super cool

[@kirstenwhitworth8079]

The instant I saw the wheels I thought they needed to be bigger; the larger they are, the easier it is to roll over imperfect surfaces. Somehow, boat ramps always have gravel and small rocks strewn about. Enjoy your newly found freedom and thanks for the video!

[@curtfatherree7474]

That conduit bend you did shortly after the 2:20 mark might have been easier if you'd put the bender on so the 'long side' was on the floor instead of the 'short side', which would give you a bit more leverage to complete the bend.

[@532bluepeter1]

This is a pretty neat idea. I have been wrestling with the idea of a portage trolley for some time and part of my problem is stowing one in my archaic design of skin on frame boat. I like this idea though I will not be using it myself as it would be really out of place on mine but this is a really neat solution. Larger wheels would certainly raise it to protect the stern of the hull. Maybe the next project could be an F1 kayak to save much weight and obviate a trolley?

[@scikick]

Why not just make a small wooden trolley that cups the underside of the kayak? You can then use bungee cords to attach the trolley to the boat (maybe use the two wooden blocks to keep the trolley firmly in place). This IMO would be a much stronger solution and would put zero stress on the boat. Also, if you place the trolley at the very end, there's no way the boat will scratch the ground. Just a suggestion. Anyway, I love your videos, April. Good luck!

[@4CAMan]

0:40 "...stays permanently mounted to my boat so that I don't have to mess with attaching and detaching something and then storing it in the kayak while I'm going down the river."

[@goodgoin1]

That’s what I did

[@wile1coyote]

Agreed and would take less time to add and remove than messing with the pins!

[@2-old-Forthischet]

Having had five boats, two kayaks and a canoe, I would suggest pneumatic tires and a strap on type kayak/canoe carrier. The after market type carriers can handle quite a bit of weight and the pneumatic tires will make pulling it a whole lot easier on uneven terrain. If your kayak has scupper holes for a proper kayak carrier, it would be much better. Good luck.

[@MrSims-ky2ne]

Excellent job April! Great results!

[@AprilWilkerson]

Thanks so much!

[@bernardinodasilva8571]

You can do longer tubes and outside or inside fit another one . The main pipe slide in the other .Give you extra resistance and equilibrium .

[@onniherrera2010]

I congratulate you on your excellent videos, I do not miss any of them. I like them because I see that you are a very proactive woman and determined to do things .. A greeting from Venezuela ...

[@jllaine]

Very creative design. The major flaw I see is that the deck of the kayak won't take having the weight 'hung' from those mounts, especially if there is any gear in the kayak. After a few uses, especially over rough ground, you will find the mount screws ripping through the deck. You can have one set of holes in the legs and instead put two sets of holes in the mounts for down and spread out, another set for up and tight.

[@zedwpd]

Great trial and error. The new shop is super and you have lots of great toy/tools. I'm envious.

[@oobaka1967]

That's two advantages of being a big fat bugger like myself. Bending conduit is quite easy and carrying a 65 pound yak is also quite easy. The downside is I can't fit in a 65 pound yak :( Nice job on the kayak improvement.

[@michaelstephan7237]

Great job! Looks quality, functional and relatively inexpensive! You built a great kayak dolly and did a superior job explaining the build! Thank you and best of luck to you always!

[@JusBidniss]

While the Scotty mounts would be good to hold up under the stresses associated with fishing poles (even with a big one on the line! :) ), I fear the kayak's fiberglass shell at those 2 points (actually 8 points, since each mounting block is attached with 4 screws) may not hold up over time to bouncing the weight of the kayak over gravels, etc., especially with the added weight of a cooler. You may eventually start to see cracking around the mounting blocks. If you pinch the shell between the mounting block on the outside of the shell and a flat metal or wooden plate epoxied to the inside, attaching the mounting block through this plate with nuts and bolts, you can spread the force transmitted from the bouncing wheels over a larger area of the shell. Admittedly some extra body work involved, but it may save the shell's structural integrity. After any cracking appears, the repair would be somewhat more extensive. (EDIT: I wondered if my fiberglass assumption was correct, and it turns out these shells are actually rotomolded polyethylene, a flexible and relatively soft plastic. So the reinforcing inner plate idea might even be more valid, as cracks in this stuff couldn't even be fixed with a fiberglass repair.)

[@jerrybrownell5682]

Might need something on the bottom to prevent a hole being worn into it. It seemed it was rubbing just a bit on transfers/slopes. Also maybe two tubes of different size that overlap and then pinned or screwed in the middle together to relieve stress. Great idea

[@JustinThorntonArt]

Cleaver idea. Next time when you bend the conduit put the longer end on the ground. It will be much easier that way. I’m interested how the Emt conduit will hold up over time. I’d think that a thicker walled conduit would work better like Ridged or stainless. But that is harder to bend and more expensive.

[@1bakerblue]

Do you have a plate of some sort on the inside of your mount on the inside of the Kayak... To give the plastic some more strength...?

[@walter2670]

Guys April is not a engineer, she’s primarily a woodworker, with many many tricks up her sleeve. She said she wants to make improvements at the end of the video. In the end she made something that functions great for her and was kind enough to share it with all of us, for free. I don’t even have a kayak, but I enjoy April’s craftiness so I watched. Good work, always a joy to watch.

[@Mike-rq1pt]

Walter Welch ... There are engineering Concepts in woodworking

[@markdenomme5151]

Add to your kayak playlist. Love your work and new shop.

[@georgefeary4277]

Drill a hole for the pen.love the texas speak. How about using bead and hole stops like you would see on canes and walkers. Rotate wheels out of way when not using , click when u rotate into position. Lengthen arms that way too.that can also raise height, stop scraping bottom.

[@s10m0t10n]

Endlessly inventive, April. Nice work.

[@markbucci2172]

Like the idea. I was thinking of making some canoe stabilizers for fishing. I may use this concept and incorporate it into the design. Thanks!

[@danieldibiaso9342]

Good job April. What if the legs were extended to about a few inches of each other and use a coupling of sorts like electricians use to secure the legs. I think that would make the legs sturdier not just relying on one point if contact.

[@PhotonHerald]

Also, I noted you just painted the wood brace in-place. Make sure to pull it off and get the bottom too. Otherwise you'll get swelling from the bottom and rot. While it's off, get inside the bolt holes too. Finally, you may want to look at some clear caulk between the brace bottoms and boat-body, around the bolts. To minimize water intrusion into the body of the kayak.

[@Texas-Bob]

Great project ! I think I’ll follow your ideas and do the same for my kayaks 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I’m laughing now reading all of the comments about how you could have done it better. These armchair ‘experts’ are a hoot ! I hope you don’t read all of them. Just keep doing what you do and how you want to do it girl...

[@stevecoppin2890]

😊NOW THATS AN AWESOME IDEA, WAS GOING TO MAKE MY OWN STANDARD YAK TROLLEY BUT THIS IS WHAT I WILL DO, THANK YOU, 🎉🎉

[@AprilWilkerson]

Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! It's perfect for moving my Kayak around!

[@fancyhillsawmill7123]

Just a quick tip, When bending the conduit turn the bender around so that the conduit longer behind it. Hopefully this helps

[@woodbean3031]

Nice solution to your problem, April. Shake the haters off; keep kickin' ass.

[@railfan439]

April: Same wheels, longer legs. Be sure to put backing plates on the inside of the kayak for the through-bolts. Adds strength. Also, put the two oak pieces on the conduit before bending. You won't need the cross piece of wood, and when you raise one wheel, the other will raise at the same time. Good to keep two locking pins for extra strength. Jon

[@NateBury]

What about an up position to use as a sail or to protect from the sun?

[@Rusticus-jy8pp]

the golf cart dollys (Walmart, kmart) have wheels that work well for that, they are very light all plastic so no rusting and they are very wide to float over soft sandy areas.

[@atcguy77]

A couple of thoughts: because it is just conduit material, I suggest turning plugs from plastic or aluminum (wood would soak up water) to use as plugs that would reinforce the area the axle bolts go through. The other idea is to make a single leg that mounts to the very front of the transom, and can swivel up 180 degrees. It might be lighter, further out of the way and perhaps the peak on the front (I assume there is a handle mounted on the front, too) is stronger than the top portion where you mounted the blocks.

[@WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

Will definitely be making these for my son's Yak's. Thx for neat ideas again.

[@motzemog]

Really enjoyed the troubleshooting/design on the fly of this video. End product came out great.

[@derschwartzadder]

I foresee a remake coming soon as you break off those legs/ the screws pull through the plastic. You're also going to scrape a hole in the stern of your boat if you don't fix the rotation/angle of your wheel legs. It's a good idea overall, but you need to take another crack at the implementation.

[@danlynch1154]

Like the concept and see the need. Would love to see any improvements you might make.

[@cterrell1343]

good piece of work and lots of useful general practical tips in the video, well done. I've gone for a different design strategy but there are many ways to solve the problem and you've got a very clear aim with this.

[@craigpereira6381]

Nice idea, you can see the boat does touch the ground almost when going up hill.

[@sjscreations2608]

One must remember whether it be April or anyone else on KZbin that person can’t do it all, of course unless your Jimmy Diresta LOL, and the videos that are put on are there for our entertainment and sometimes ways to copy. Yes there is a million ways to do many things, and we can only do what we think is best at the time and including finances. I respect people like April because she has started with no trade background and become a multi skilled very knowledgeable young lady that I would pay to do work around my house (even though I live in Australia)! April, don’t listen to the nay sayers they fill some hole that they have inside by pushing their negative insults onto others. You have started, learnt and achieved more in a few years than many of us have done in a lifetime! Congrats on this project! Cheers, Sean

[@Yellow_cub]

Well said!

[@lint2023]

👍

[@cousinfuzzy4544]

You damn skippy 👍👍👍

[@vaalrus]

Nifty. I fabricobbled a built-on dolly for my dad’s flat bottom fishing boat… I took two matching bicycles from the scrap yard. cut off the rear suspension, used the mounts to make two minmal brackets that I bolted to the bottom back of the boat, and mounted four eye-bolts to the top rail. one pin for each wheel, and one long cross pin through the eye bolts, and the wheels sat on the back *just* off the ground, like a moving dolly set down on it’s rails. Pick the front of the boat up six or more inches, roll it around anywhere you want. The wheels took up hardly any space when stowed, or you could leave them on in the water with little interference. Later on I put a bracket on the front and made up a single wheel with a tiller, and mounted the motor from an electric bike on it. You could sit in the boat and tool around the beach… but I wouldn’t recomend it. :)

[@vaalrus]

photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipP14qN9qyrrN3q7s6AgPN7MDg1BMnIbCu_ObXZA

[@vaalrus]

photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNisH9HAELl_ESenxYkYQBTkCBKKQ_HIFCCGIaG

[@hmarshall9x19]

several people have recommended a one piece axle, i disagree, the two piece allows you to move the wheels in towards the center of the boat when you flip them up. however, using a flat board across the top like that is forcing the same deforming of the top of the kayak that you had before the board was attached. i think you should have contoured the base or mounts or the top so it would not deform. also, since its multi position, you could also add outriggers (not sure thats the correct term) for more stability.

[@karllaun2427]

Just a thought: Apply finish to the bottom of the brackets. Water will get in there and stay longer. The one-piece leg would definitely be stronger. You could make the "up" hole(s) in the cross brace wood.

[@chevymarineretired]

Mount your wood blocks, then take a straight edge across both and draw a line. Drill your holes in line with the line you put on the blocks. Run your conduit with a bolt with the head cut off between the two ends. Drill and pin with a cotter pin. You won't need the board across the top.

[@charlesevans913]

when on the water always make sure to have a buddy with you and always have pfd on. these two rules have saved my life more then i can count. ( i also paddle on river with a good flow so having a rope in a bag tethed to me and my boat has saved me from losing my yak)

[@bravoone17]

Good project April! Like seeing the progression of the trials. I can appreciate this one as I wheel my kayak down to the local lake too. Thanks, Mike

[@Zogg1281]

If you got a second piece of pipe, slightly larger then your independent axles can slip into. Then when the wheels are down you could also have another set of pins that go through the axles and cross tube. It should add some more stability as well as helping one axle not to twist if it gets cought in a rut or hole, that way both axles will absorb the weight and instead of one axle twisting, it will rock the boat about a bit (which is fine as your carry handle at the front is designed to move around when carried).

[@scrout]

Makes moving the kayak easy peasy. You could also epoxy an aluminum scrub plate on the underside/rear for protection from dragging as well.

[@jasonbice1103]

bevel the bottom of your wooden block to match the contour of the top of the yak so that your opposite hole is straight across and on the same plane, you would have to slip your blocks on before you bend them, and in stead of larger wheels just lengthen your conduit legs.

[@mrprimenumbers6448]

You should try making the wheel bar one whole piece an then make your brackets in two half's a top and a bottom. Then put it all together. It will give your wheels more strength, possibly reduce the load weight.

[@thedookster4143]

Amazing job. Really like the way you showed the real stuff. Everything does not always go so smooth and some make it seem that way.

[@kannapolislawncare2153]

a pretty kool idea. But last month I just decided to go buy one at Academy Sports, when they went on sale. Yes, it cost me money, but!! I Did gain a whole afternoon of boating with my hubby.

[@potbelliedolman8939]

You are one handy little lady! I really enjoy your videos! Keep it up!!

[@markreardon3472]

Great thinking outside the box. Like they say "Work smarter not harder"!

[@franklinfocus]

I’m attempting to build this with a little smaller diameter conduit. I’m hoping the pins work out fine, obviously they’ll be smaller pins!

[@gkevineady49]

consider a "skid plate" where the tail end drags a bit when pulling - orrr, the wheels need to raise it higher.

[@jamesautry7432]

I noticed the keel scraping the ground as you were putting it in the truck. I would either lengthen the wheel leg and/ install a keel guard.....nice job

[@reymalaret9664]

April this was 2 years ago, have you make any changes to the wheels or the system in general?

[@PhilipJongejan]

Some comments recommend using 1pc of conduit. That's a good idea. However, if you keep this 2 pc design, you could flip the conduit while stowed for use on the water so that the wheels are inboard instead of outboard.

[@no_handle_required]

Everything you do is just cool. Outtakes would be awesome too.

[@franl5585]

Clever concept. Solves your problem nicely. Good job!

[@johnklein4558]

Wheeleez wheels make rolling it over soft terrain really easy. Also I second the recommendation of checking out CLC stitch and glue kayaks.

[@KennethSievers]

Great idea and well designed.. Thanks for sharing!!

[@dreamchaser321]

Nice truck! I love that color on the taco!

[@joshuatall8134]

Genius idea! i hope it works on my 15' Coleman canoe! Thank you!

[@JointerMark]

This is a great idea, I am fortunate enough that I can lift and stow my 'yak on my roof rack. Does the weight of the wheels affect the balance much? Does it roll as easily as before the wheels?

[@beanzie99]

very nice job. my kayak is so heavy its a struggle for my wife to help me carry it. I plan to make something like this as well.

[@PJGalati]

Love your creativity and positive attitude all the time April! You have great trouble shooting skills, I enjoy seeing how you figure things out.

[@PSWerkstatt]

Always nice to watch your videos. I like it how you realize projects. Always a pleasure... 👍🏻

[@johnofly1lynch728]

Hi April, I live in Queensland Australia & I have only been watching your videos for the last two months... when I'm not @ work but you have been such an inspiration!! I'm not so much of a wood worker... more of a handyman tinkerer but I love my motorcycles & my RCs cars,heli's, & quadcopters so there is all ways something to fix or work on. I am very interested in your triton superjaws XXL but sadly they are not available here in OZ. Can you remember how much it was?? Also have you seen the ROOFUS square & if so I would love your opinion of it? It looks like a quite a use full tool for a wood worker/ handy person. Love your videos especially when you add things like the quad bike donuts when you were building your shed that was cool!! Got to have some fun in between all that hard work. Your doing a fantastic job! I look forward to watching your new projects cheers john.

[@FredMcIntyre]

Awesome work April! 👍🛶👊

[@derekrowlands1189]

Great video, no advertising how refreshing.

[@MikeTheMaker1]

Jimmys gonna need need one of these for his for his canoe.

[@mansurnasyrov8329]

Hello April, Hello from Siberia, where you have so many tools firm Triton.

[@glenngoodale1709]

I always learn from your videos...you have a gift.