Making a folded saw back

[@mcremona]

That's a lot of work to fold a piece of metal but the results are amazing. Thanks for sharing!

[@gcarson19]

Good to see you back, Mike! I thoroughly enjoy your tool making videos, although they tend to highlight the fact that I need to get my shop space organized! Keep up the good work!

[@mikescncshop]

Thanks Garret. I've been remodeling the house and haven't had much time in the shop.

[@c.lafont931]

Magnet idea is genius!

[@camiloleon7704]

Muy bueno. Justo lo que andaba buscando. Qué espesor tiene la chapa?

[@davidchiles1726]

awesome work bro, great inspiration

[@JesseHerreraMusic]

I was with you the whole way - anxious for the climax moment when you would fit the plate to the folded back. And instead I saw your niece. She now has a brilliant piece of machinery and a special story with her uncle. And I have a "WTF" in my head. And that same "WTF" is laughing at me to go figure it out on my own. At least the back will be straight.

[@Blasthoff]

The way you add the saw plate is to start a corner and then tap the folded back down onto the top of the saw plate with the tooth end of the plate against a wooden block or piece of two-by. The wood will not hurt the saw teeth. You don't insert the plate all the way, only to about 3/16"-1/4" or so which leaves room to adjust "tensioning" of the saw plate for any slight bend or waviness in the future. The extra space also serves as a sort of "pressure relief" in protecting the saw plate from being kinked.

[@Blasthoff]

Mike, using the angled stock has rekindled my interest in folding a saw back. I was wondering if you've given any thought of thinning around the corner of the angle stock just enough to help facilitate the closing of the bend? I may try this myself. I was thinking of running light passes with an angle grinder along each side of the corner on the inside just enough to reduce the excess mass at the corner as the fold closes up. I'm hoping there's a sweet spot that can be achieved without losing the integrity of the bend.

[@mikescncshop]

Blasthoff It sounds possible. I would probably try using a flap disc rather than a grinding wheel. It can still remove material pretty fast but would give you better control. Let me know how it works out.

[@Blasthoff]

I never thought about a flap disc as I didn't think it would remove much material. If it does it certainly would be easier to control. I'll look into that as well.

[@Blasthoff]

I just happened on to this again after a year. I like the piece of angle stock you used as it seems to be just doable. I came by a piece of 1" brass angle but I can see it is far to thick (appears to be a full 1/8" thick) for bending in a vise, especially the bend!! I've got to get over the brass "kick". I've toyed over the idea of joining single strips of brass together either with rivets from solid copper rod or simply using JB Weld (strong stuff!!) along the seam edge. The steel back is more workmanlike anyway. My one vintage 130-year-old Wheeler, Madden, Clemson backsaw has a steel back. If you want to get "fancy" that soft steel should take gun bluing very nicely but it's not necessary. It's fun working on saws but it's easy to forget they are tools to be used first and foremost. At least I keep telling myself that!!

[@Claudisimooo]

I tried it but I finally bended the vise handle and didn't get good results... I think I need a much bigger vise

[@mikescncshop]

A larger vise works better but it's still a pretty difficult job. I did this to show that it can be done but didn't really expect many folks to try it. If you can find a metal shop nearby, they could probably do this in a couple of minutes for you. You can also buy folded backs in brass or steel in the USA from www.tgiag.com I have been working on a project with 48 hand cut tenons and cut many of them with an $11 Kobalt saw I bought at Lowe's. I had to sharpen it, do a little bit of straightening, and clean the lacquer from the plate, but the steel is good and it works great. I would still like to design and build a wooden handle but the plastic one isn't as bad as I had expected. If you need a cheap saw I can recommend this one. www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-14-in-Back-Saw/1053305