Making a "HitBox" Controller to Save Money

[@sav_noob]

Flashing to firmware worked fine up until being able to test the comtroler, nothing would recognise it what can i do to attempt to fix it

[@ko-yoshi]

Awesome vid! Especially appreciate seeing how easy it is to flash the firmware onto the Pico!

[@sav_noob]

This didn't work for me idk why

[@imanny99]

Great video. I was working on my version of this too and I've definitely learned a thing or two from your video and revisions you plan. I would suggest making the round sests for the mechanical keys in such a way that they are removable. That way switching the type of key would just entail printing more seats. I also think if the key caps are printed like a cylinder, the side can go into the opening and provide more stability.

[@DarlingAFK]

Hey bud, good work and if youre trying to minimize post processing for elephants foot just add a small chamfer to the edges of the places youre worried about the elephants foot and it acts as a bit of compensation, hope this helps!

[@lampwith]

thx for all!

[@werdna5559]

This was a great maker vlog, I look forward to your success with future videos

[@totheunknownigo9550]

Hi there im interested in how you coded the arduino ? Can you put the the source code or give me a hint

[@abbshadow1]

It's not an arduino, is a rapsberry pi pico.

[@Butcher-m7y]

Hi there, I'm trying to do this project and use your 3D files, will a PLA print work too ?

[@SamCampbell]

Yep! PLA should work

[@json_n]

does mechanical switches act like just a standard tactile button?

[@SamCampbell]

Mechanical keyboard switches are quite similar to official arcade buttons such as Sanwa. Not exactly, but close depending on the switch type

[@json_n]

@@SamCampbell I just googled it, it's a single pole single throw switch. I can use these instead and carve out the housing on a plywood. I can do the soldering myself. Sanwa buttons are too overpriced/expensive, where I can get mx switches for 0.60$ each.

[@infernape28]

PSA do not put UV resin or prints into the sink. You'll ruin your drains

[@SamCampbell]

Yeah it's a really bad idea, I can't convince my friend to stop doing it. He says, kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKurhIWZr9mdjdU

[@terraleonardo_]

Great build! Did you solder the wires directly into the Raspberry Pi? Or did you crimp terminal plugs in the cables? I'm kinda new to electronics and I've found some builds that use the terminals and others that don't detail the soldering too much, so I don't know if the plugs are necessary for the board to work.

[@SamCampbell]

Thanks! I soldered them directly to the board. If you want to make it easier to replace switches or cables in the future then terminals will make that process simpler, but they're not required.

[@thebloodeye9377]

i made a Leverless controler for myself and i used pico just like you but when open game controler setting in windows there were some buttons are pressed. load the Tekken 7 to confirm and its giving commands on its own. i checked my soldring and wiring nothing was wrong so i thought pico is broken or faulty. i changed pico. solder the new one plugged in same problem. change 3 data cables but no success can you tell me what could be the problem or how i can fix this issue ?

[@SamCampbell]

That's interesting. I would take a multimeter, set it to the resistance measurement and then place one probe on the ground pin then place the other probe on the opposite pin of the affected buttons. There shouldn't be a short but if there is then it could be the button itself

[@thebloodeye9377]

@@SamCampbell The Problem is its not giving command by any specific button or buttons its giving on any button randomly and rapidly like its giving F, LP , select , RP

[@SamCampbell]

You'll have to narrow down the issue. Try removing all buttons, testing the board, then add one button at a time, testing each time you add one to see where it starts to have issues.

[@thebloodeye9377]

@@SamCampbell done that remove every wire from hadders plug in empty its doing same thing check the soldring on both picos with magnifaying glass nothing wrong both are doing same thing

[@MichaelHarto]

hmm... in my area, we could just commission someone to print a 3D print design. cheap service. you only need to send them the design and pay the cost.

[@roninstormYT]

why are you using that Rasbery pie board not a brook universal fighting board ?

[@PandorusFightStick]

because its better, has more options, like led and oled screen, and way cheaper!! response on these is 1ms too

[@momo.ru-kun]

GP2040's average latency is 0.87ms, Brook is 3.9ms. It's not even close. The only advantage of Brook is its out-of-the-box compatibility.

[@LJCG777]

Faster, cheaper, more freedom of upgrades at the low cost of not having out of the box universal connectivity. Also it won't affect people who only game on a console and pc thanks to steam input. If it's a problem you just gotta worry to remember the buttons to switch between direct-input/keyboard/ps4/ps5/switch/xboxone/Xinput.

[@chris_topher1984]

i want to convert a usb-c keyboard that has a female usb-c port on the board into a hardwired keyboard. have you ever done that?

[@moyeetus]

Oh wait, wow! So this means the only Electronics component I really need is a rpi?

[@SamCampbell]

Yep! And any switches/buttons you want that are normally open. It's a great entry point into building your own controller

[@moyeetus]

@@SamCampbell Does it work with PS5?

[@shinyfrow]

@@moyeetus no

[@LJCG777]

​@@moyeetus Yeah it works

[@Corphish_]

9:54 oh god I knew where he was going with this.

[@JessicaFEREM]

Now all we need is a cardboard box hotbox.

[@3nertia]

Bruh, how is your mouse scroll wheel so loud? Lol

[@kanapkalol]

Yeah. And then you want to plug this into PlayStation and it disconnects after 8 minutes because it is not the original controller... So you have to buy an adapter/dongle for ~40€

[@abbshadow1]

Or u can use the controller that came with the console itself 😮