Making A Laminated Top Guitar Part 6 Finishing The Neck

[@joerushing1593]

Thanks for the tips! I am working on my first ground build and this is very helpful.

[@Burnin-U]

You've taught me a lot. Thank you

[@HighlineGuitars]

You are so welcome!

[@GuitarJeff]

Just getting to this video. However, I thought I would comment on the glow in the dark dots. I play live. I have actually had this done to all my guitars. Its not gimmicky, it's actually extremely useful. You get on stage in the dark at night and you can't see crap. You also never know what lighting system they have. I do it only to the side dots though. Not the front. Front face the audience. As a side note. Anyone that wants to give this a try without modifying their guitar. You can get gun night site paint, you can just paint a small couple dots for fret markers down the side. This can be cleaned off with a little buffing if you don't like it.

[@TommySG1]

Don’t think I’ve commented on your videos yet however I like them and enjoy watching them. I’m not a Luthier however I do put guitars together often, I just don’t do any ( aside from perhaps a headstock ) - anyway great videos / tutorials, the information is straight forward and to the point accurately 👍 Thanks, Tommy.

[@matthewfanning3350]

I used jacquard. Solar gold screen printing ink to fill in wood grain.. Sanded and sealed with shellac. Looks great on roses wood. Have you ever tried anything like that?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. There are cheaper products that accomplish the same thing.

[@matthewfanning3350]

Thanks for responding back I really appreciate your videos I've learned a lot

[@Jofuski]

Help! I currently have a PRS style build I’m working on and I am wondering if you could recommend some bright stains/dyes to use under a Solarez “I can’t believe it’s not lacquer” finish. Any tips for not staining my natural maple binding while allowing me to darken the mahogany back and neck? I love your videos, keep putting them out! They have really helped me make better guitars than I was making before I found your channel! Thank you!

[@HighlineGuitars]

Try Keda Dyes paid affiliate link: amzn.to/3jZCb8E To keep dye away from the natural binding, mask off the surrounding wood and apply a few coats of sealer to the binding. Next, mask off the binding and apply the dye to the wood.

[@kyleconnolly5670]

Great videos!! Can you put a link to the tubing your using for the fret markers?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I bought it at a local hobby store. This is the same stuff: www.dickblick.com/products/plastruct-styrene-tubing/

[@steveslate3601]

What is best to use on a pau ferro fretboard to protect and add gloss? Thanks for all the videos!!

[@HighlineGuitars]

I don't use anything on Pau Ferro. I sand it to P1,500 and take it to my buffing machine. It polishes nicely and stays that way.

[@steveslate3601]

@@HighlineGuitars Thank you!!

[@mikeivey8471]

Where did you get that 30" long 12" radius block or did you make it yourself ? That is a brilliant idea for radiusing fretboards & I want one !! LOL

[@HighlineGuitars]

I make my own radius sanding blocks.

[@Metalbass10000]

We do too.

[@garycraw9781]

Excellent video Chris! Can you help me with a question or two? Can you "tint" Danish Oil with a liquid guitar dye like SM's CT "Straw"? Can you apply the Danish Oil when the frets are already on the fingerboard? Thanks. Gary in Colo. Springs

[@HighlineGuitars]

Why would you tint Danish oil? It already has been tinted. I don't know anything about the dye you mention. You'll have to contact the manufacturer for that info. Yes, you can apply Danish oil on a fretted fingerboard.

[@garycraw9781]

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks Chris - I'm trying to get the yellow/amber color of 60's Fender necks - the dye I mentioned is a liquid ColorTone from Stewm - past use of Danish Oil didn't get the neck to that 60's neck shade.

[@massimozirilli3282]

Great videos! Thanks! May I ask you why many liuthers reccomend scarf joints but most valuable guitars are one piece headstock/neck?

[@HighlineGuitars]

You need a thick slab of wood to make a one-piece neck, which is more expensive and harder to source than the thinner boards that require a scarf joint.

[@massimozirilli3282]

@@HighlineGuitars yes of course, but does it brings something more ?! Is there a audible difference? Thanks

[@HighlineGuitars]

@@massimozirilli3282 No.

[@danielbell4007]

Have you ever used the gunstock oil/wax finishes on your necks? Do you like them?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No. I don't feel they are durable enough for necks and they tend to be expensive, time-consuming to apply and lot locally available.

[@dantahoua]

I see you put oil on the side of the neck where it would be glued to the body. How do you deal with that? Does not the oil prevent the glue to make its job? 🤔

[@HighlineGuitars]

Wipe it off some with acetone.

[@sambeguely1132]

by using 'mineral spirit' to wet sand the neck do you mean mineral turpentine?

[@HighlineGuitars]

No! Mineral spirits are cleaner.

[@ToniVarga]

How thick are your necks and fretboards?

[@HighlineGuitars]

I varies, but the fretboards are usually around .25" thick and the necks are .8" at the first fret and .9" at the 12th fret including the fretboard.

[@ToniVarga]

@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the answer :)

[@BenjaminFranceMusic]

Great episode, Chris! What are your thoughts on using something like a danish oil or boiled linseed oil for a guitar body, assuming that it isn't going to be gigged with, and only used in a controlled, home/studio environment?

[@HighlineGuitars]

Danish oil and BLO are the easiest finishes to apply. Go for it!

[@terryclift6905]

What do you think of tung oil vs danish oil? Terry

[@HighlineGuitars]

Pure tung oil is just that, a simple drying oil. Tung oil finish usually contains drying agents to speed up the dry time. Danish oil is either tung or linseed oil based with varnish (polyurethane) added. I like both for guitars. Danish oil is great for bodies and pure or polymerized tung oil is great for necks and fretboards.