Making A Silicone Glove Mold

Glove molds are a great way to avoid parting lines in your castings. In this video I make a hybrid mold, part glove and part cut.
I also examine what happens when flaws in the sculpture cause mold problems which then transfer to the castings.
Thanks to Tiffany for sending in her project.
Check out her work at Tiffany of La Baroque Candles on instagram : labaroque_
Here is a list of suppliers for the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5v...
Do you have a project to suggest for the channel?
Here’s a .pdf with everything you need to know:
www.dropbox.com/s/pjb0l6fr7zj...

[@craigmile7286]

"test failed successfully" . This was a great video. a lot of cool concepts at play with this project.

[@MarsFuller]

Thank you for being so generous with your wisdom sir. These are free master classes, what a time to be alive. 👍🏾

[@F-Bomb313]

Another amazing video, I learn more from one of your videos than dozens of other people's. Slowly, I'm beginning to get the confidence to try this as a hobby, thanks

[@RobertTolone]

i’m glad you find my videos helpful Alvin.

[@CrazyHamster777]

You are not only good at what you do, but you are interesting to watch as well. Big thanks to you

[@craigbond5243]

Since I have been following your videos I have learned more in the last few months than I have in the past 10 years of my mold making experience. I typically do brush on molds for glove molds. But this technique is very interesting. I honestly at first was thinking wtf is he doing? Lol then it made too much sense. Lol thanks for all your help.

[@RobertTolone]

Very glad you find my videos useful!

[@jakeed09090]

I love how you threw in the little lesson about beeswax. Great video!

[@KRGraphicsCG]

Now I need some beeswax. Your videos just gave me an idea to put wax on the walls of a 3d printed mold box

[@HalidonDioramas]

I could seriously watch you do this all day, so informative and so calm, great video sir, canot wait to see how she comes out 👍

[@ChempZee]

You always make it look easy. There's no substitute for experience and you have more of it than most. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@rowanstephenson3192]

Wow wow wow what an absolute craftsman you are... Inspired of England 👍

[@Joel-pq8rw]

Just saw your channel a few days ago, and I'm hooked on your videos! ❤

[@mai2015]

This felt like a masterclass! Whoa I feel like I just learnt so much even the interlocking of the cuts of the rubber was genius I would have never thought of doing it but it makes so much sense

[@thorgils0]

You know how to keep me on the edge of my seat. This technique has been in the back of my mind for a long time but I never visualized how to get it done. Now I do not need to work it out. As always , great to see you work. Thanks Robert, you are the man!

[@RobertTolone]

Glad you found the video helpful!

[@martincastro7134]

An other awesome video Robert!!! You are the best!!! Thank you for share your knowledge, I have more than 15 years of experience making rubber molds but with your tutorials I continue learning day by day. Greetings from Argentina!!!

[@JeremyBotta]

Found your channel like two weeks ago and have been running through your whole backlog!

[@user-kw9ul6mi6q]

I love you’re tutorials! Thanks for you knowledge and skills! Greetings from Russia!

[@StoneAndersonStudio]

Ok wow, I would never have thought about making a mold this way. So cool. Thanks for another great video!!

[@linconwalker8329]

Thank you for the amazing, informative content again. The original sculpture definitely appears to be have been made on an FDM 3D printer. My experience is that most filaments for FDM printers do not have the same issue of rubber not setting, in comparison to liquid resins used in SLS/resin printers.

[@robertarthropthesecond]

Always a pleasure to watch your videos Robert, and always I learn new things, and I want to thank you for that!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Cosmo!

[@isaactriujeque2343]

Thanks a lot for your kind videos Mr. Tolone... I´ve really learn a lot with you. I´m a sculptor but also I'm interested on doing my own molds and castings.

[@fuujii6390]

Got hooked right until the end, very eager to see the result next week!

[@scifimodelsandstuff3211]

Wonderful video. So many great techniques shown here.

[@U014B]

That curing test did a really good job of establishing inconclusivity.

[@RobertTolone]

You’re right.

[@Kr0n1kTh3Kl0wn]

it is absolutely enthralling to watch you work. your knowledge of rubber, resin and the science of casting and curing, your craftsmanship and handyman skills, even your theories on evolution and the history of tool making are bar none the pinnacle of professional paragon. it would be an honor to shadow you in your shop as an apprentice, to learn from a true master artiste. i didnt even know i had a passion for mold making and resin casting until i watched your channel. until then, it was a hobby and i was simply searching for tips but after watching your setup, your artistic process, your willy wonka-esque production facility, i feel inspired and have redoubled my efforts to create unique molds. i thoroughly enjoy learning from you, i cannot express my gratitude for the trouble you have saved me already by providing solutions to things i didnt realize were going to be problems. i hope one day that i will be able to step up from working out of shoeboxes in the back of someone elses shop and have my own production studio. heres to looking forward to your new videos, to learning how much more there is that i dont know and how much i havent even considered, and to finding out how much deeper this rabbit hole goes.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks for watching the videos Nick, I appreciate your nice comment!

[@Sgat8516]

FYI Cure Inhibition. I've seen this frequently and know how to get around it. UV resin catalyst (when not 100.00% mixed and fully cures) and the cleaning solvents generally cause Platinum based silicone cure Inhibition. Those chemicals are binding to the platinum catalyst and neutralizing them. You can reduce inhibition by: baking part (150-200F for an hour). Also waiting 2-3 weeks after printing helps, both give catalyst time to dry out or hardened. There is a special chemical made to fight platinum inhibition for UV resin, Inhibit-X. It's basically 0.1% platinum catalyst agent plus thinner solution. It works amazing and lasts a while. It's a dip in solution (or thin brush on), remainder of unused solution can be poured back into bottle.

[@ezrabartsch1505]

Well done, Robert. I was anxious to see how that hair would come out. Looking forward to the next video!

[@jordanhindes769]

Great video as always can’t wait for next week

[@ThyrzaSegal]

aluminum duct tape is what I use with tinfoil to make armatures under polymer clay- The wax worked very well too!

[@thebeheader]

hugs Robert! as always this was a great tutorial.

[@levinebette15]

Great lesson! Thanks, Robert!

[@AndersArman]

Love this guy - my new utube relax channel

[@andreacurrie4245]

Thank you so much your videos are the most informative and easy to grasp! Keep up the good work, good sir! 🥳

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Andrea!

[@glenfisher728]

Thanks Bob another interesting video . Never been a big fan of clay myself but like you said sometimes it's just got to be done .

[@RobertTolone]

A man’s gotta do what a man’s gotta do.

[@wishcloudstudios]

You already did something here similar to what I am going to do, but the process is easier. A friend walked me through the process. It is so easy, I feel very confident that I can do it. But, instead the rubber is painted on in thin layers, and is so stretchy, that it literally peels back onto itself like a glove. No parting lines whatsoever. It is perfect to cast doll heads or the dolls that I want to cast.

[@RobertTolone]

That should work well for you. Make sure you can support the glove so it doesn’t distort when you fill it.

[@wishcloudstudios]

@@RobertTolone Since the molds will be so small, and it will be slush cast, (therefore creating a hollow resin) I think they should be fine. 😊😊😊

[@roger.agburn]

Oh man. I was so curious to see what the flaw in the mold would do to the casting. And then the video ended. ^_^ Nice video and nice project, Robert. Looking forward to see the casting.

[@melanie_kay_6014]

12:30 - "You know what the difference is?" - me: "IT'S BEESWAX!"

[@RobertTolone]

Right!

[@eugeniobarreto]

Very good. You are a great teacher.

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks Eugênio!

[@BlazeBytez72]

That's interesting to watch. Well done 👍

[@AxDhan]

I love your videos, just started watching your channel, I dont do cast but enjoy miniatures and for some reason this was suggested to me, now Im thinking to start casting as a hobby

[@RobertTolone]

What miniatures do you have? I am looking for projects from those miniature worlds.

[@AxDhan]

@@RobertTolone 28mm and 32mm ones, warhammer 40.000, space robots, plague zombies and space marines, I wanted to have something like that as a boy but I couldnt, now Im a little older I can do those kind of things :D

[@RobertTolone]

@@AxDhan Thanks, I will look for those.

[@flytrapjohn]

Wonderful stuff. Thank you.

[@MarkMichalowski]

Brilliant video, Robert - and a slight "Wow!" from me about the beeswax-vs-petroleum jelly difference! Shame about the eye speck, though... :(

[@MarketResearchReading114]

Thanks for sharing, I think glove molds have to be pretty stressful to deal with, you've got the model in there and the mold itself trying to wiggle em out must be pretty tough. Cya in the next video.

[@jarrodworlie6288]

Those aluminum foil condoms are handy when you don’t wanna run to the art store. Also. I like your drill, haven’t seen one of those in decades.

[@RobertTolone]

Drill is a mid 1980’s vintage Porter Cable.

[@berniepetterson257]

Fantastic.

[@securityrobot]

Superb!

[@AAR210]

sometimes i feel like this whole channel is an elaborate ploy to sell bees wax. thank you for sharing your information with us mr. tolone!

[@RobertTolone]

Unfortunately I do not have a bee farm. 😭 I could be rich!

[@anettebianca6855]

but beeswax is amazing - you should buy it ;)

[@j0hnf_uk]

If you're able to turn the mould inside out, then you could possibly repair the few spots that tore out by attaching small quantities of rubber that will inversely translate into indents on the final piece. Whether than would work in practice, (at all or partially), can only be answered by doing it, I guess.

[@MarkMichalowski]

That's what I'd have tried, John - especially if I still had the speck that Robert removed from the model.

[@entermens]

You are amazing.

[@sadieross-johnson2800]

Brilliant video, can you explain why you didn’t use fibreglass and resin for the outer shell? We use a fibreglass and resin frequently in the uk

[@justynea7171]

i sell silicone rubbers and do 3D printing! If you ever need to cast a 3D print it's usually SLAs (resin prints) that inhibit silicones due to the sulphur content, giving it a post cure and using an enamel spray over the surface usually helps with any silicone inhibition! Also printing in a clear resin will make sure the UV penetrates further throughout the print :)

[@mattiasfagerlund]

If you're creating a mold from a 3D model, you can use the 3D file - expand it - and 3D print a mother mold for your glove mold to go into. Removes so many steps. I'm sure it could even be done by using a 3D scanner to scan a master where you don't have the 3D file. If you ever try this, make sure to expand the surface of the master - don't just scale it up because that won't work. Added benefit; you can exactly compute the volume of the glove mold, though then you're deep into your 3d software.

[@RobertTolone]

In my cad system I can use a shell command but I find it is important to design the shape of the mold case. A surface offset isn’t usually optimal for the case. By the time you add the parting surfaces and keys, etc and then print the case I’m not sure you actually save much time over hand-built cases. Also I use manual methods because many of my viewers do not have access to 3-D printing. But I will be doing some 3-D printed mold cases in upcoming videos because it’s too much fun to resist. Thanks very much for your comment.

[@mattiasfagerlund]

@@RobertTolone Thanks for replying! The surface offset isn't perfect - and in Fusion 360 it often fails for complex models. Here in Sweden, silicone is $100/liter, so any excessive mold material quickly becomes expensive. Using the 3D model means you can create a mold where the silicone is 10mm, 5mm or even 3mm on each side. I often end up making the mold cavity by hand, slicing of parts that aren't needed and moving those parts over to the mold box/mother mold instead. However, as you say, you need a 3D printer and you spend the majority of your time on the confuser. With your technique you need neither 3D printer nor CAD software. I'm guessing a lot of people do casting because they want to work with their hands - which would make your technique much more satisfying. If one goes down the route I outline, the 3D printed box is square and can be made self locking so no rubber bands or clamps are needed to keep it shut during casting.

[@gentiligiuliano7882]

Older times I used to make some small modelling molds for white metal cast, I used glicerine as detaching agent. It worked ok.

[@RobertTolone]

You used the glycerin with silicone molds?

[@gentiligiuliano7882]

@@RobertTolone It was silicone. It was a stiff reddish RTV kind for lead based alloys. I made a few times. I guess it was glycerine, at least I remember I bought it for this purpose and I think was the thing I used. But it seems from your surprise my memory could have some faults. I never used vaseline or wax for sure. Maybe once I tried hand cream (but it has in the content a significant ammount of vaseline so we can consider it as vaseline for this purpose). I must give a look to my old stuff if I can figure out.

[@jezfish1]

Another great video, Bob, Thank You. If you weigh the clay you will get a very good idea how much rubber you're going to use, assuming you know the SG of clay and rubber. Best Regards Jez

[@RobertTolone]

That’s a good idea, although it requires a little foresight and planning. Two things I’m bad at. Which is why I always end up resorting to the sneak-up-on-it method.

[@joek600]

Ι learned alot from this video! My heart sunk when I saw the little ripped piece of the mold in the eye. Im really curious about the fix. Maybe trying to put the sculpt back in and add abit of silicone with a brush? Instead of foil you could use cling wrap. Btw the sculp has alot of problematic areas and those print layer lines are going to reproduce

[@RobertTolone]

Oh yes, the mold faithfully copied every printing artifact in the model. One day maybe filament printing will be as clean as resin printing but not yet.

[@olskratch]

With the beauty coat (eyes, hair, etc) does dipping the brush in degassed rubber not introduce air bubbles? I've never tried that approach but always feared that would be the case. I always pour on and brush outward but my method can certainly be more tricky than simply brushing directly on.

[@NotesFromKrautland]

Weighing the used clay should provide a good estimate for how much rubber is needed. Well, plus the space the foil used. Lubricating the outside might help sliding it off. Sometimes the friction makes it much worse.

[@jerryhardman6365]

Hey Robert. I can’t tell you how much I’ve loved your videos. They’re the best guides you can find anywhere on silicone molding. I’ve applied much of your techniques to great effect. Question: Where do you go to get your wax products? And what is the tool called that you use to apply the wax. If this info is in another video I haven’t gotten to yet then maybe someone can link it to me. Thanks

[@RobertTolone]

www.freemanwax.com is where I get my wax and this year they began supplying waxes to the channel. The wax tool is a Foredom wax carving pen.

[@GRUNGEHaunts]

Hi Robert, I love your channel and have been a fan for a long time but never wrote a comment. I have a question about glove molds. I made a glove mold for a skull with silicone rubber and am having a tear issue on the cut when I cast resin skulls. The tear kept getting larger and larger and now I have to remake the mold. Do you have a technique or perhaps know of material I can add to my mold to reinforce the area that needs to be cut to free the castings?

[@MySelfishPlace]

Hey Rob, any tips for molding and casting miniatures for tabletop role playing games? Love the content and the way you educate us. Thanks

[@RobertTolone]

The first Miniatures on the channel are in production. If you have any specific pieces in mind for your role playing games let me know. I am looking for game pieces to mold and cast.

[@FullChokeFowl]

Thank you for your lessons. I wonder if others are having the same questions that I have when I watch your tutorials..Would you please share a picture of the "Bee's Wax" or a material list with brand names? Also, where did you get that soldering iron/wax tool (what is it called) and what wax are you using to "glue" the foil?

[@deliastubbs6243]

Hey Robert I love watching your videos, I have a question for you, so I’m making an 11” figurine and I like doing the brush-on rubber mold so my question is what do I do to not have bubbles in the rubber or the resin? Thank you robert

[@RobertTolone]

If you are doing a brush-on mold bubbles are pretty much inevitable. The best way to avoid bubbles in the resin casting is to orient the model properly in space and provide proper venting so that all the air can escape.

[@Animaniac-vd5st]

Wouldn't it have been a good idea to cover the clay by alu foil or saran before putting the resin on to save 10+ minutes of cleanup?

[@MarkMichalowski]

Now that's a REALLY good idea that wouldn't have occurred to me. Nice one!

[@emilflognoid1532]

Good video

[@johnwinters]

I liked your video but I had couple questions about things you didnt mention. What did you use to fill the gaps in the hair to avoid undercuts? Also how did you mount and keep scupt mounted to the board when replacing the mold halves in preparation for filling of the cavity with rubber?

[@RobertTolone]

I filled the gaps with sculpting wax and I secured the sculpture to the base with sticky wax. Watch my most recent video, it’s all about the waxes I use.

[@IdRatherBeMaking]

Hey Robert, is there any downside to gently heating the clay in order to ease removal? The PLA on the 3D print isn't supposed to deform until it hits 60c (140f) so I'm thinking blow dryer?

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, heating really softens the clay. It wasn’t too hard to remove but I could have safely done it.

[@wereshnefer]

Hi Robert, I was going over some of your old videos and I watched this one as well as another where you were making jackets. What struck me was that in this video, you make the jacket first and pour the rubber into it and in the other you brushed on the rubber and made the jacket over it. I'm wondering what kind of situations would be to use one or these techniques over the other.

[@RobertTolone]

Both methods work. I use the brush-on first method when the model has hair or other very fine surface details.

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

1) That looks like an FDM print to me. Do those PLA/ABS/etc filaments also cause cure inhibition like resin prints tend to do? 2) Have you ever considered trying sticky wax? ;)

[@Toystorations]

I haven't heard of FDM prints causing inhibition, and the two brands of silicone I've tried haven't had any issue curing. I use PLA.

[@crain43]

I tried once, and leave the mold three times the normal time and worked perfectly with an ABS model. But something that works even better was to sand it and fill the lines of the print with wood filler. That got me a smooth surface once I casted the part.

[@RobertTolone]

1) I’ve had pretty good luck with most filaments recently. 2) What’s sticky wax?

[@matthewazevedo274]

So what could be done to keep the clay from sticking to the shell? A mold release, beeswax? Would that then ruin that clay for future use?

[@lucassmith1886]

I have heard that slow and easy heating of the clay really softens it. So using something like a hair dryer or a heat gun with adjustable settings should be a massive help. Although i also heard someone suggest possibly just covering the clay in aluminum foil or saran wrap before applying the rest. Hope this helps :)

[@user-uj6ry2hu3q]

What about spraying the model with mold release?

[@truegret7778]

Many of the 3D printing tools (slicers) provide a means to generating a mold, as the model is being printed. This bust of a woman is very, very detailed and cannot say how good of a mold will be/could be generated . I have not tried the mold feature (Ultimaker Cura 4.11) yet. Just a thought.

[@RobertTolone]

If it is a rigid mold and then it will be a waste mold unless you cast only flexible material into it. One of the two materials has to give otherwise you’ll have interlocking.

[@truegret7778]

@@RobertTolone Yea, good point. What I have seen is "slicing" the 3D mold into halves, and this person used clamps (not rubber bands). They tried this material called Instamorph (don't know why he did, but, he did since it is moldable at 66°C / 150°F and solidifies at "room temperature"). I was wondering whether one could use this "3D printed mold" for rotational projects. BTW - I love your work, teachings, experience, and channel! I've learned a great deal. Thank you [;^)

[@MarkMichalowski]

@@truegret7778 Instamorph (PCL - polycaprolactone) is really cool stuff (well, apart from when it's hot - LOL!) and I've used it to make rigid mother molds, especially when I've only needed them for a single casting - cos then you can melt 'em down and re-use them for something else.

[@EagleSoar1381]

Ok, letting my geek flag fly here... I do both casting and 3D printing. The easiest way to cast a model like this is to print the mold. How I do this, I load the model that is going to be printed/molded into a 3d modeling software, I then put it in a 'block' and subtract the original model from the 'block'. Next I split that block in two, then just up-scale it in the printing software by 10-20% and print the 'block', then print the model. What I then do is glue the model to a board (like Robert does) then I glue the 'block' to the board around the model, then pour in the silicone and you have a perfect "glove" mold. I have done this with crystal balls so I can then resin cast the crystal ball, I have done this with detailed models etc etc. Takes 10 mins on a PC then however long it takes on the printer. If you are looking at mass producing the model, you can even make multiple silicone casts of the same model/block over and over again

[@dwerenat1]

What kind of silicone molding compound do you use normally? I'm just taking the hobby up again after a fifteen year absence and I'm really behind on sourcing good material that doesn't cost me two limbs and a goat.

[@RobertTolone]

I use Econosil 25 from www.silpak.com. It is a tin-based silicone rubber and is the most economical one they sell. Sorry to say there is no such thing as cheap silicone rubber and resin. At least I have not found any yet!

[@carlosberdeal2562]

Do you have a video on just cutting your parting lines in silicone?

[@RobertTolone]

No, I do it so often in my videos I have never made a video specifically on that part of the process.

[@USALibertarian]

"Let's condomize this girl." I have searched my entire life for a vocation where I can say that legitimately and eureka I have found it!!!

[@danje748]

Would spraying mold release on the clay partying line have helped you with taking the clay away in between making the two mold halves?

[@RobertTolone]

Yes, but I like to reuse the clay because I’m cheap. And I’ve never found an easy way to clean silicone spray off the clay. Still, it’s a good question. Always a balance between the value of labor and materials. Would the time saved use using the release pay for the clay? Quite possibly.

[@danje748]

@@RobertTolone It did not even enter my mind that the clay might end up being caput thanks to the mold release. But yea, it then becomes a cost vs time thing. =/ What if you resquished al the clay with that in it. Would you not end up with workable clay then? I mean sure the spray would accumulate over time. But it might get you a few more uses of the clay that way. Sort of like how they use thumbtack as a eraser.

[@lucassmith1886]

@@danje748 Interesting proposal, I for one am curious to see if that could work... I also saw a couple of other possible remedies as well you might look into as well. The first is simply heat, slow and steady with something like a hair dryer, or maybe a heat gun but with adjustable settings so as not to overheat anything. This will soften the clay quite a bit, and aid in it's removal. Another suggestion which I'm very curious to test is to simply cover the clay in aluminum foil, or saran wrap before applying the resin. Essentially wrapping yet another condom around the clay itself. However I haven't personally tried either of these myself so take it all with a grain of salt. I don't want to be the one suggesting techniques that may inhibit or downright ruin someone's project. But i figured I'd let you know in case you didn't. :(

[@danje748]

@@lucassmith1886 thank you for the ideas =)

[@sw8398]

Hi Robart , I luv your videos, as well as the Craftman..this one though, ni think you got it wrong for a glove mould, i think it would have been easier to partition the original with a clay wall and keys, paint into and then layer up the silcon, (a dash of food dye )for alternate layers, to see coverage for each layer, say four layers, bit over an 1/8,...cake up, over the silicon (with whatever , your mud stuff, plaster, or even fiberglass), turn over and repeat for the second half....separate, and hole up with a cork bung for a good slush cast two piece...

[@RobertTolone]

For me, the point to a glove mold is to avoid parting lines altogether. This mold required some cutting because of the sculpture shape but most of the mold was uncut. So the parting line on the casting was short and easy to clean. Two-part clay up molds are lots of work to make and produce an unsightly and unavoidable parting line which runs all the way around the sculpture. So in fact it would have been much more work to do a clay-up mold and much more work to clean the parting line off each casting.

[@sw8398]

​@@RobertTolone Robert, I hear you, but if you have a tight key system, different shapes not all rounds or bolts, then parting linesd wont be an issue, also consider what the client will cast the end sculpture in, for example, if that bust were to be done in bronze, the the only way to exit a wax shell from your one piece would be to pour the investment in, other wise you would just deform , at best, the wax shell getting it out..not so with a two piece

[@patchworkpants]

Have you ever tried casting in other materials like cement or Jesmonite?

[@RobertTolone]

I have cast polyester and epoxy resin as well as hydrocal, hydrostone, etc. I should definitely try Jesmonite.

[@Mark_Agamotto1313_Smith]

I have a smallish question, which type of resin has the highest tensile strength? I want to make buttons out of resin and want them to be functionally useable.

[@RobertTolone]

I don’t know from personal experience so I Googled around and came up with Tough Cast 65D from Specialtyresin.com and the Task series of resins from Smooth On. Freeman Manufacturing and Silpak.com (channel sponsors) both offer a large variety of resins. If you contact them they will be happy to recommend a suitable product. Hope this helps.

[@Mark_Agamotto1313_Smith]

@@RobertTolone Thank you.

[@kainoctis7724]

Finally, a glove mould. Edit: Personally i would've just done a brush on mould.

[@RobertTolone]

Me too, normally. But I was planning to both rotate and pressure cast using this mold and it’s very easy to get bubbles in brush-on molds.

[@kainoctis7724]

@@RobertTolone Be gentle, I'm still a silicone n00b. My answer to everything; glove mould xD

[@davesilva9174]

@@RobertTolone I find when I cast my brush on molds in a pressure pot the pressure intensifies and expands any little bubbles you may have in the silicone( I use Dragon skin 20) and inevitably ruins the silicone mold. So frustrating!

[@RobertTolone]

@@davesilva9174 That is exactly why I did this mold as a poured mold and not a brush-on mold. It is extremely difficult to avoid bubbles in a brush-on mold which are not a problem for rotational casting but a major problem for pressure casting

[@US-vy8up]

I love beeswax

[@nagyesszep]

Hi Robert! I'm a professional sculptor and I often have to do silicon/resin molds. I have this problem - and I've been trying to find a good solution for such a long time - that after the pour has cured the silicon/resin sticks to the wood/cardboard. Do you know of any substance that would prevent this?

[@historex54tamiya]

Hi, I run my own casting and sculpting business. I use sellotape on the inside of my cardboard mould boxes and bases to prevent silicone sticking. Lightly sand the tape on the base with fine wet and dry and it helps on the master being tacked to the base.

[@RobertTolone]

Use a heat gun and brush on melted beeswax. It’s a miracle substance.

[@glenfisher728]

I'm sure Bob said something about bees wax ?

[@18net2]

bees wax is the best stuff in the world ... hahaha... 👍👍👍

[@scottypres1]

Fantastic work! Great example of a technique I’ve never used. Quick question, why wouldn’t you just do a cut mold? Yes, it would use a lot of silicone (I’m sure 1-2 gallons if not more), but it seems like you spent hours upon hours making this mold, and time is money

[@RobertTolone]

True, time is money. When doing my client work I basically use the exact same materials and methods on almost every job. But that would quickly get boring on a KZbin channel. Here I try to demonstrate as many different methods as I can.

[@thegrafxguy1]

why not put it in the vacuum chamber when it's in the mold? is there some reason not to do that with silicone? or am i just totally off base asking dumb questions? i've never done this before, it just looks like a really neat hobby to go along with 3d printing which i already do.

[@RobertTolone]

It’s not a dumb question. I don’t do it because the resin I use sets up too quickly and cures while the bubbles are expanded by the vacuum. There isn’t enough time for the bubbles to rise out. Also you would need to design the mold to have a reservoir to contain the resin. Materials under vacuum have a larger volume because of the expanded air.

[@thegrafxguy1]

@@RobertTolone thanks for the explanation, that makes perfect sense!

[@I4getzalot]

What kind of stretchy mold material is he using? Name brand?

[@RobertTolone]

It’s from Silpak.com. Silicone rubber R 1318-10 extreme flex rubber.

[@I4getzalot]

@@RobertTolone Thank you so much!!

[@ArcticFlies56]

Ok, Robert the question is, why didn’t you coat the tin foil with Bees Wax?

[@RobertTolone]

No need. You saw how easily the clay came off the foil. Also I was afraid that some of the melted wax might seep through the cracks and get on the model.

[@ArcticFlies56]

Good answer! Could you have coated the Trowelon 60 to make separating the clay easier!

[@pival801]

I'd just like to point out that that bust wasn't printed with resin but with some kind of thermoplastic (PLA, PETG, ETC), so there shouldn't be any kind of cure inhibition.

[@MarkMichalowski]

Yeah, I thought that seemed a bit strange, cos I've never had any problems with silicone and PLA.

[@secondarycontainment4727]

Robert - next time try COMPRESSED AIR to liberate the lady.

[@FedericoFaure]

Water based clay is the key

[@RobertTolone]

In what way do you mean?

[@Darkbulb1]

Mold release would solved the majority of issues in this process.

[@RobertTolone]

I did not use a mold release on the clay because I reuse it. And I did not use it on the model because it was not necessary and I did not wish to clean the model afterwards. Release would not have prevented the bits of rubber from sticking to the model where they did because the rubber was trapped in those locations.

[@imnotvintageimgrumpy586]

I would have sprayed the clay with Crystal Clear, the clay would be easier to clean off.

[@RobertTolone]

True but then it would pollute the clay and I’m so cheap I use it over and over.

[@maverickstclare3756]

The irony being that the person who supplied the model could have printed the outer shell too.

[@RobertTolone]

A project like that is in the works.

[@Xonkykong]

I think the print is not resin it seen to be fdm printing so there should be a problem of the material (probably pla) inhibiting the cure of the silicone 😁

[@RobertTolone]

It worked out ok this time.

[@1dunnj]

that is such a long process, do 5 minutes then let it dry over night, do 5 minutes and let it dry, and let it dry again... but the good thing is, with the rigid resin case, you could use rigid expanding foam instead of a solid resin to save weight/cost/ etc.

[@RobertTolone]

I generally only use rigid foam on larger molds, like life size figures.

[@slimanus8m]

Elongation Muskation

[@Tarex_]

Compressed air would've saved cutting the mould and be used as an air wedge, it would've inflated the head and given birth to the model through the neck without needing to flip or cut.. reading this sounds very greek mythology lol

[@tetsuoswrath]

The phrase "aluminum foil condom" makes me wince. :{

[@user-rf6rp6ou2r]

Hi, Robert ) Check your email please. There is a mail from me

[@jordanhindes769]

Great video as always can’t wait for next week