Making fire with the Casström No.10 Swedish Forest Knife and Casström Fire Steel

The only tools you will need to make your campfire! Here, Casström's owner, David Cassini-Bäckström, gives a short demo of the art of making fire with the Casström No.10 Swedish Forest Knife.
Here's a link to the knife and fire steel combo:
www.casstrom.com/knives/fixed...
And a link for our UK customers:
casstrom.co.uk/products/no-10...

[@justinthompson4029]

The more I research this knife, the more I am sure it will be my next one. Awesome piece of kit.

[@florinemanuel6306]

Did you get one yet?

[@justinthompson4029]

@@florinemanuel6306 in the next couple of days I will be ordering one.

[@rilledulu]

Mycket trevlig film David!

[@CasstromSweden]

Tack!

[@florinemanuel6306]

Which steel do you prefer for cold weather?

[@CasstromSweden]

both Sleipner and Sandvik 14C28n perform very well so no preferance there.

[@florinemanuel6306]

Thanks so much! Most probably next week i'll get a no.10 sleipner with oak handles, can't wait!

[@florinemanuel6306]

What do you think, isn't a 10cm blade too short?

[@CasstromSweden]

For battoning and fireprep only it is nice with a longer blade but it is more practical with a shorter blade for other woodcarving or gameprep tasks. All depends on what you want to use the knife for.

[@florinemanuel6306]

Thanks for the help! :)

[@greekveteran2715]

The older version works way better. That 0.2 of a mm for a scandi play a huge role. The older models used to be 3.4mm, which is very close to Moras, who are considered the best bushcraft knives, because of theire geometry mainly. At 4mm that these newer Sleipners, are the scandis don't work properly, actually they suck.and that's true, no matter what edge angle, or geometry you put to the edge, or whatever you try, nothing can make it work, as if it was at 3mm. For example, when featherstiicking the feathers are not thin but very thick and also don't curle much. That's not even called feathersticks.. it sucks at carving, notching, everything is much worse and some bushcraft tasks, can't even been done properly or at all. That's only 1mm difference, but in scandi grind, it matters that much. KZbin ,ignoraance, and marketing ,is the reason knives, become harder and harder and thicker and thicker everyday. Nice for ignorant collectors, but bad for users or people who really know and appriciate knives,for what they are supposed to be, the most important, and most used tool, of our everyday survival.

[@CasstromSweden]

This is your opinion, but looking at most of the custom-made knives in the bushcraft sector they generally come in at 4mm thickness and this thickness is usued by Bushcraft instructors the world over with no complaints. The main factor for effective cutting for most wood-related tasks is edge angle, and if you have a micro bevel or not. The "thickness behind edge" factor for a scandi is undetectable between 3,4mm or 4mm, but can matter more when using a full flat grind since the "shoulders" are part of the actual cutting operation. The main "issue" with thicker scandis is getting around tight turns when spoon or bowl carving, and those are tasks most suited to more specialized wood carving knives with much lower edge angles and blade widths. Best reagards.