Making furniture with 3d printing

I'm making furniture using 3d printing and simple materials.
Get all the files and plans here: www.alch.shop/
Merchandise: teespring.com/...
Thank you Prusa for sending me this great machine! Check it out here: shop.prusa3d.co...
Make sure to Subscribe (and ring the bell!): www.youtube.co....
If you want you can support me on Patreon: / chappel
Follow me on Instagram for more pictures and stories along the way: / a.chappel
All the tools and equipment from this video:
Japanese hand saw: amzn.to/2QcLUMo
threaded inserts: amzn.to/3235sYQ
Orbital sander: amzn.to/2xglSBs
Osmo Oil white - amzn.to/3gR6gWZ
Some of my other favorite tools:
Biscuit jointer: amzn.to/333GzfY
Track saw: amzn.to/2Q07Bj7
Drill: amzn.to/3cKVXCr
Impact driver: amzn.to/2VZFGDp
Jigsaw: amzn.to/2vQtbj1
All my music is from Epidemic - Get a free 30-day trial here!
www.epidemicso...
By using these links I may earn an affiliate commission, which helps support the channel.
Thank you for Watching! Tune in next week for more videos :)

[@BradleyPaton]

That accurate circle jig trick on the bandsaw is brilliant. I've never seen that before, thanks.

[@DennisJHarrisonJrHere]

Agreed!

[@adrianlandreth9918]

I support that comment.

[@lilypower]

Have seen it many times before and used it myself, thought I don't think I've seen it explained this well before 😃

[@luckgrip252]

Agreed!

[@xcruell]

Seen it a hundred times but it still amazes me, how something so simple can be that helpful!

[@shibozou6421]

15:36 amazing 3D printing footage!!!

[@ellen-6190]

Thank u so much for this brilliant idea! I am going to do something similar now that I got a chance to try CAD and 3D-printing myself for a school project

[@JS-up8ff]

I don't know if its the angle of camera on the objects, but the tops don't look to be centered on the legs... It looks like this for both the table as the bar chair if you pause the video at 15:24 for example.

[@mariodegovia4863]

I was utterly charmed that you made the barstool, revealed it, and judged it unworthy of use. That's the kind of humble authenticity I appreciate in your vids. It would've actually been easier to not show or talk about a failed prototype, but the fact that you did builds trust and keeps me coming back. Bravo, sir!

[@zmigyyy]

Totally agree! :)

[@thespacejedi]

Ghey

[@TommyKronholm]

Just signed up to your Domestica course, can’t wait to see more of this!

[@louisvictor3473]

10:58 You inserted the threaded slots backwards. You can actually just use a regular flat screw driver to set those inserts using the side with the slots cut on them (that is what they're for). Pretty much all threaded inserts I've seen have something similar (some are flat screw driver slots, some are hex keys slots, others some weird shit, but usually something that you don't need to use the whole bolt with a nut and them some to pull it out procedure). That being said, the idea of combining 3D printed parts with simple stock that requires little processing to make pieces is imo such a good thing and often under explored. Kudos to you for doing that and on doing a nice job overall.

[@albertogregory9678]

Excellent video, genuinely achievable diy vids are always welcome. The paper templates kick ass! see ya next time

[@juliusbenzonan8723]

Jaw drop for that circle jig 😮

[@Mafields]

OOOO MPCNC cant weit!

[@viktorzacik8988]

Can you please make a tutorial how to make this kind of timelapse with MK3?

[@locksmithjeepguy]

are you canadian? noticed you use Robertson screw (square head )

[@iandrake4683]

When it comes to a chair, I'd be careful of your print orientation.

[@pjak2000]

I would not dare to sit at one with parts printed from ordinary FDM printer. You never know when the non-molded part breaks at the layer bond and you end up on the floor with broken pelvis... Unless the prints are printed on SLS printer or at least printed in nylon or CF reinforced filament.

[@jothain]

@@pjak2000 only total tool would print parts with default perimeter values.

[@pjak2000]

@@jothain Its not about the perimeter count. Even with 10 of them it is still like laying spaghetti one over another. I've been there done that...

[@jothain]

@@pjak2000 lol. I've only twice failed my prints between layers. Also there's really, really big difference in different perimeter amounts and it radically affects layer separation possibility.

[@RedSpeedRuns]

@@pjak2000 could print the parts big enough to where you could oven treat them to melt the layers together -it shrinks from oven baking so would need to make it just big enough to compensate.

[@NicksStuff]

Could you use two "middle part" on the stool?

[@medmahdiaimeur1148]

great Bro, you're all the time great.

[@ГригорийЛисовский-у7т]

Very nice content, keep going!

[@confushiarch3421]

i would want someting carbon reinforced if i wanted to print a barstool or something along those lines... that or a cast aluminium part using lostwax fillament.... but i can imagine more worth will thing to cast out of aluminium..

[@sanjitmathur5895]

Hell Yes

[@achappel]

:)

[@sanjitmathur5895]

@@achappel Are you kidding me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@vasiliynkudryavtsev]

1K left before end of the one100KSuscribers campaign.

[@dzmecano485]

did you used PLA or PETG please?

[@achappel]

Pla

[@dzmecano485]

@@achappel Thx. PLA is very strong, but for chairs for example, where you need a little bit of flexibility, I would have used PETG. Sufrace finish on PETG (even on the prusa) is less smooth than PLA, but it gives you more robust and constraints resistant parts. Your channel and your work is incredibly creative and highly professionnal. Keep us with this very good work.

[@Ger1nga]

i think, him is beck🧐

[@erumesty]

ゼットソーあるのか...

[@Albanez39]

It's so refreshing to watch a KZbinr that uses Metric. I'm tired of all the Americans and their Imperial system, which is only used by about 400Million people in a world of 7Billion!

[@ForrestSchultz89]

Wait up, 7 printed parts, "I've got 5 of them right here, and the other 3 are on the printer", let's run that back.

[@achappel]

:P

[@SittingDuc]

5+3=7. You heard it here first folks! ;)

[@vancegiannini5601]

And there was only 4 on the table haha

[@NRMT-A]

Confused me too for a sec

[@JavaRacingCo]

I would love to see a video of you designing these 3D printed joint connections! Do you use fusion 360?

[@AthanCondax]

The Prusia i3 MK3 is an incredible printer. If you're curious about dabbling in 3D printing, it's one of the best options. You can opt to build it yourself (helps learn about your printer very well) or you can buy it fully assembled (removes a lot of troubleshooting in foreign territory for beginners). It has a huge community for support and it's widely used. I bought a MK2 a few years ago and immediately upgraded to the MK3 when it came out. It's a great printer any way you slice it. Josef Prusa and his team of very talented salespeople are fucking awesome and I think they make great products as they're true labors of love.

[@awdhootkanawade]

My advice to every new comer be like : Want best printing quality and convince buy prusha Want something affordable thats gets job done with more then decent quality get ender 3

[@achappel]

@@awdhootkanawade That's pretty good advice :)

[@awdhootkanawade]

@_ David _ no one can beat ender as best printer for bonniest i use my ender for all my RC stuff

[@AthanCondax]

@_ David _ I was a beginner and I bought one as my first printer, so I politely disagree. I also sold it for almost the same price I got it for so it held it's value over 2 years. Price and experience don't really make a difference. If you don't end up liking it or getting into the hobby, you can sell it.

[@xdarrenx]

Missed opputunity to make plastic ends for the tips of the chair with the perfect angle and fit. Also the feet are where it wears the most, so when they wear out u can always print new "feet". Most industiral chairs have plastic on the ends probably for this reason.

[@drkline69]

I was thinking the same thing. Would have saved a lot of manual labor having to sand the ends.

[@lilypower]

But also added hours to the printing, manual labor is usually a lot faster than 3d printing! 😅 With that said, I do agree, it would've looked a lot more refined.

[@xdarrenx]

@@lilypower Making say 3 foot pads of such (small) size would print in 20 minutes or so. You can probably get away with super fast print speed as well with this type of coarse "feet". Manual labor can be faster, but the machine is set & forget. So you can print while at work or sleeping, effectively freeing your time 100% to do w/e else u want to do, while the machine happily produces away. I often print before going to the supermarket, and when I'm back it's done. I can't be at supermarket and build at once.

[@cchaffin2012]

Only 7 parts 5 right here and the other 3 lol it’s ok keep it up bro 😜

[@achappel]

ahhahahahahahha😅

[@connor1186]

Just a note for you, you can print steeper overhangs by using inside-outside and thinner layers.

[@JamieRogers95]

Again, killing it with the DIY projects you can actually do yourself. Too many youtubers forget we don't all own giant shops full of machines and rely on simple tools used properly. Good work! :)

[@JamieRogers95]

And before anyone chimes in about the 3D printer, they super inexpensive and common in a lot of homes.

[@wuerfel_schmied]

You don't need gluestick on these PEI sheets. Just clean them with isopropal alcohol. I printed hollow parts, without bottom or infill, just sticking with 2 or 3 perimeters. No problem.

[@GoodBaleadaMusic]

What are you trying to pull off here? That screw rotated the wrong way at ~5:58. I can't stop thinking about this. I demand answers.

[@thefakemaker]

Hi there, I just bought the files. I was wondering how much infill you printed yours with. I’m currently trying 15%.

[@e.k.anathorist6910]

Rounded leg end is a HORRIBLE IDEA. It will focus all the weight on a single spot and will damage the floor structure. Thats why we never see this design in commercial furniture.

[@jmisc]

Making the bottom part of the leg round, I think, can be bad for the floor. I wonder if you can improve the design by adding a TPU-printed attachments.

[@raugust6786]

I make 1/6 scale diorama items and wonder if one could make 1/6 bar stools and tables using just smaller dowels and scaled down prints of these parts? If I order the set and try it out, I'll reply to my comment with any feedback.

[@Packless1]

Very nice...! :-) ...i like the trick with the bandsaw...! 11:00 ...you should use a washer, that prevents the inserts to go too deep...!

[@GregMakesStuff]

Wow those turned out great! I'm definitely intrigued by the grey part in the end 🤔

[@achappel]

Thanks :) hehe, You'll see soon, can you guess what it is?

[@joostvanputte]

Alexandre Chappel some sort of linear sliding mechanism.

[@achappel]

Joost van Putte you're not wrong :)

[@abmakes9583]

@@achappel From what I've seen, I don't believe you have a cnc router. Possible DIY Cnc Router?

[@achappel]

@@abmakes9583 nope :P

[@cianvaugh3411]

cant wait for the cnc machine (my guess what that upcoming project is😂 )

[@achappel]

a 3c printed cnc! jeah!! but no :P kind of close tho... moving axis but no motors.

[@LaserMadeProducts]

Amazing video! I love the simple 3D printed pieces that come together to create the side table. It came out beautifully. I just discovered your channel and it's very similar to what I'm doing with my channel. Keep up the great work!

[@lilianaprina5991]

Alexandre, I see wood-workers using a sharp solid metal tool to make holes gentle hitting top of this tool to shape small rectangular hole. It kind of looks like a giant scredriver but heavier and stronger. What is the name of this tool?

[@TheAntibyte]

Wait is round stock the correct term for dowel? That's what I always called it growing up.

[@iblackfeathers]

speaking of flexible platform beds, have you seen creality’s prototype treadmill 3d printer? lots of interesting developments in the 3d printing world. made it through all the forced youtube ads to get to the end of this video. 😅

[@jellalfernandes9542]

Couldn't you use the same sort of circle jig on the table saw but put the blade at an angle then you can cut the chamfer easier? I think....

[@giomjava]

Great video! Is that PLA or ABS material?

[@Sasquatch6987]

7:12 That diameter size... I think I know what the chair and table are being used for...

[@mattgardner83]

@alexandre have you seen this video about using 3d printed parts to round over table and chair legs? its right up your street, would love to see you build it and use it in a project : kzbin.info/www/bejne/opbHd5Z8oNx5fsU

[@1987jaffa]

you can drill in the inserts with just a flat head if you had turned them around. But i kind of feel this was intentional, because the insert looks way better the way you did it. (definitely going to drill them in this way in the future)

[@MannYgfx]

May I ask what your "local hardware store" is? Har søkt lenge etter stenger i ask men finner de ikke noe sted.

[@basvanharen2904]

I build my own (Annet A8) 3d printer, fun hobby:-) But if I were to buy one i would probably go for a Prusa. I like the way Joseph is doing things and love his story. Also great idea on this furniture, I might build a table for my own, thanx!!👍🏻

[@DavidAW27]

He could have made the bar stool less wobbly by adding another support structure underneath. usually higher to the seat.

[@Dragonited]

Nicely done. You are however using those threaded inserts the wrong way. The slit in one side should be on the outside since they should be used to putting the insert in with a large flat head screwdriver.

[@Marco-Tusenartist]

What kind of PLA are you using? I love the looks of the texture that PLA has!

[@g43s]

the 3d printed parts would've looked better in white, nice build tho 10/10

[@Bungee75]

Why did you turn insert wrong way? Those slots in them are intended for flathead screwdriver.

[@RamDragon32]

0:55 Queue Picard impression... "THERE ARE FOUR PARTS!"

[@JohnDeLong797]

Love watching your videos! Thanks for sharing your ideas! Sorry if this has been asked before, but what software do you use to design your prints? I've been using SketchUpFree so far but wondered if there was a more ideal program for making parts like these.

[@matiasbobadilla2450]

You can use fusion 360, inventor, autocad, and more

[@denizcancgsar2810]

I am surprised you have not printed a template for cutting the sticks..

[@Creative_Electronics]

Now you have some beautiful furnitures 👍👍 Awesome video 👍👍

[@dominicodematte]

Instead of sanding the feet why not print some round feet that will slide over the end like a cap

[@thigerns]

How can you not have millions of followers! !? This channel is absolutely fantastic! I love your energy and your nervous little laughter when you speak! Keep up the fantastic work! Greetings from Sweden

[@vinc878]

Fuck yes

[@E36uk]

> 45° is damn clever

[@julz9261]

How many days did it take to print? Im using my Ender Pro 3 and my slicer is Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 and to print just the Side table top mounts its going to take 1 Day 17 hours & 11 minutes and thats with 100%infill and Quailty 0.16mm Oh and im using Black PLA 1.75mm

[@achappel]

I printed them in 0.2 layer height and the "fast" setting, with the 04 nozzle i used 4 or 5 perimeters and 20% infill :)

[@JoyElectric567]

Why is he laughing all the time when he`s talking? It freaks me out

[@infinitewars6373]

lets admit the adapters that are 3d printed look like shit in this assembly!

[@DanielBulyovcsity]

I like that you created Scandinavian design maybe intentionally or unintentionally. So good to see some european minded makers.

[@GamingMad101]

For the legs, if you want to save lots of time sanding, assemble the legs then use a pencil on some coins or scrap wood to draw a line around each leg parallel to the desk, cut this line and your legs will now sit flush. Might be worth chamfering the edge a little bit if you do this, just so there are no sharp edges that could chip easily.

[@imashaman-ei9ie]

kanker veel werk terwijl het veel sneller en simpeler kan? waarom doe je dat niet?

[@davidgruty]

How could one strengthen it? Painting with resin?

[@shrimpinpat]

math is what prevents me from being able to do these things

[@70newlife]

So the mystery remains what materials this was printed in!!

[@greyspot00]

Is there a reason you use broom handles instead of similarly sized wooden dowels? I figure they would be much cheaper.

[@achappel]

Jeah broom handles are way cheaper :)

[@random1za]

Am I missing something or did you put those threaded inserts in upside-down? isn't the notch on one side meant so that you can use a flat-head screwdriver to screw them in rather than the whole nut and bolt thing you did in this vid? Why not just use that?

[@imprenta_3d]

I think the same

[@bennylee2582]

Maybe i missed it but is that PLA or PETG?

[@hector456]

Excelente !!! gracias por mostrarlo.

[@brandonpau6395]

loving your videos and your channel! you're right up there with all the maker alex's on youtube, alex cnc, alex french guy cooking, alec steele... wont be long till your channel will be huge! cheers x

[@iloveamerica8541]

Please don't call this furniture

[@Richard_Cunningham]

Hi. I sent you a message on Instagram as I believe someone is selling your files for the barstool. I may be wrong (hopefully) but said I would let you know. Thanks 🙏

[@CUBETechie]

The conectors could be a little bit snuck

[@davidalarcon8633]

You said the material is Galaxy Black, is it PLA or PETG?

[@achappel]

David Alarcón pla :)

[@marcelabarcenas9513]

You should try a resin 3D printer

[@findbradford]

what 3d printer are you using?

[@Stoobers]

Mind blown with how you did the circle cut with the bandsaw. Nice!

[@synco1985]

at the bar stool maybe you can add another brace , or maybe two, and it will give the whole thing more rigidity. nice job man!

[@achappel]

Thanks dude! And jeah, that would probably work :)

[@silvioschroeter_tesla]

Nice work in hole go on subscribtion is now on

[@CocosLaurentiu]

Are you using Jared's voice from Silicon Valley ?

[@CocosLaurentiu]

I know this comment is bizarre for those of you who don't watch Silicon Valley ... but his voice is so similar, it's like I'm listening to Jared kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHLUc5aAmNhkpLM

[@laurentbreyer]

Try another colour of filament

[@adisharr]

Like others have said, the Prusa is a great printer. I have about 1500 hours on mine and the only time I've had any issues is because of something I screwed up myself. A lot people are fans of the low cost Chinese printers and they can do a fine job but you don't buy a Prusa because you want a hobby modifying your printer to make good prints. You buy a Prusa to use it as a tool and make professional grade prints.

[@herohema5]

no one:... Alexandre: awkward laugh

[@suraphic]

ur interesting, sub'd. ty 4 tips

[@karllidbetterr]

wow you should make a 4 leg bar stool

[@jonsaystv8942]

Really nice project sir!

[@Ronnebaum]

in regards to the 3D printing issue that the objects do not stick to the metal sheet. Since I clean my metal sheet thoroughly before printing (washing-up liquid is enough, and does not cause so many problems with PETG-filament compared to isopropanol) I don't have this problem anymore.

[@kuukuuplays2449]

what filament was this though??

[@nkings10]

In regards to the prints not sticking. The glue stick is actually to help PETG (and other sticky filaments) parts release, not stick. I use the smooth sheet for PLA 100% clean. Then use the textured sheet for PETG also 100% clean. If you need to print PETG on the smooth sheet use the gluestick and also add a 1 layer brim to the print. This will help the part stick and is very easy to remove after printing.

[@EmbraceMaking]

What material did you use for printing?

[@Jkauppa]

sculpting and hdpe casting

[@Blast357]

no need to use any glue on a PEI sheet. your first layer isnt squeesh enough. the only thing a PEI sheet need is windex as a release agent. even glue is used as a release agent normally (for PETG, TPU/TPE, PC, etc...)

[@justinheinen2666]

I've been using an Original Prusa MK3 for 2 years now. The way to make sure the prints stick to the bed is to wipe down the bed before every print with some isopropyl alcohol (I use 91%). About every month or so, wipe it down with some acetone to also rejuvenate the bed -- but not too often because it can make the PEI sheet on the bed brittle. If the part has a small surface area, I make sure to print it with a brim (about 5 or 6 mm wide). Hope this helps!