Making Table Saw Inserts / Throat Plates (Dado & Zero Clearance Inserts)

We'll be showing how to make a table saw insert to fit different types of table saw blades. These inserts are also known as table saw throat plates and can be made for both single blades and Dado blades.
These Table Saw Inserts are necessary for the safe operation of the saw. Shop made throat plates often have their relief cut made by the blade they will be used with making a very close tolerance between the blade and the throat plate, hence the name "zero clearance", but they can also have a wider tolerance in which case they would simply be called "inserts" or "throat plates".
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[@smenon4322]

That hot glue technique for leveling the plate is genius. So approachable and yet modifiable, whether you’re a hobbyist or professional. I’ve learned so much from you.

[@joebrown1382]

Never thought about using hot glue to level these inserts, great idea.

[@knecht105]

I'm glad you liked it Joe. Thanks for watching!

[@dvids2478]

You can just use wood screws, just drill a hole and adjust height of each one in the "corners". Its simple and fast, works as good as glue.

[@KB-kc7ou]

The only issue with this method is that the insert ends up sitting a little bit below the table top (by the thickness of the painter's tape, once you remove it from the bottom of the insert). You could eliminate that error by putting a strip of the same tape on the table top on each side of the throat, and rest the two straight edges on the tape. This should make the height even more precise. Maybe 'too' precise?

[@joebrown1382]

My saw has threaded inserts on each corner. Adjust with allen wrench.

[@nperson]

Much easier using a flush trim router bit. Probably takes under five minutes. Another thing to consider is that most plates also require a small pin in the front of the plate so that the blade can't lift the plate. Nail or a small screw works well for this.

[@beinspiredtomake]

Colin, thank you for your great advice. Making a zero clearance insert was a big improvement to my cheap table saw.

[@catfishcave379]

Hot glue - what a brilliant idea! I can’t count how many brilliant ideas you’ve taught me.

[@jlh5995]

Hey Colin - thanks for taking the time to produce this great video tutorial on how to make a custom table insert - the hot glue is a easy way to compensate for the height of the new insert,

[@mc4kvb]

Always great to learn new things especially when they are to ensure that you stay protected. Thanks so much Colin, as usual I love watch all of your videos and I’ve learned so from them.

[@mathieulariviere2558]

Hot melt glue is a great idea. I will definitely try this. I've always struggled to get it flush with the top. Thank you for the great tip

[@daveb8898]

Just used this hot glue method to make two inserts for the same saw. Worked beautifully. Thank you!

[@hansdegroot8549]

Very useful video. Thanks for sharing. Simplifying things as much as possible is the way to go. But only a few people know to explain how to do that. You're definitively one of them and I am happy having discovered your channel about two years ago.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome Hans! Thanks once again for watching.

[@sapelesteve]

Nice one Colin! Have made a few of these in the past but never thought about the hot glue for leveling to the surface......Brilliant!!...............Thanks for posting.............

[@knecht105]

You're welcome Steve!

[@The_Ol_Bizzaroo]

Like many of your videos, this was terrific information that was extremely useful. Thanks, Colin!

[@D_J_F_4]

Your videos are super clear and to the point. Awesome work man.

[@pf5658]

Great video. Here is one trick I use instead of the glue. Lay original insert on top of the one You’ve just made and adjust the four little set -screws that is used for leveling it to mark locations , then you can pre-drill and use four set-screws to level the new insert. It’ll be almost as the original and has worked quite well for me.😊

[@tomtruesdale6901]

Learning new stuff here all the time. I like the hot glue level trick. I used the plywood that formed the crate my motorcycle lift table came in to make a bunch of table saw throat plate blanks. Will use the hot glue trick next time I need to use one.

[@kengunnell6398]

Just what I needed today, thank you, to the point with tips, love your videos.

[@strangersun7721]

This is great. I need to make one today and you have detailed plans here. Thank you!

[@cetjberg]

Hi Collin, Nice job, explaining how to make throat plates (I call them inserts). Good to see your site. Charlie Berg

[@moonwoodworks4607]

Thanks for the info, I just got a new bandsaw for Christmas from my kids and need to make these, now I know how.

[@rockyriddell8671]

Thank you for sharing you wealth of woodworking knowledge. I know you saved me from making mistakes.

[@laurencemcintosh4488]

Great video, as usual, Colin! I really need to make one of these.

[@barsoom43]

I just made one but instead of the screw to hold down the plate in the saw, I used a rare earth magnet.. I used a Forstner bit to make a socket just deep enough to where the magnet would be flush with the bottom of my new plate. You must use a rare earth magnet for adequate holding power.

[@michaelconstable1211]

My DeWalt is not able to hold magnets. What other ideas for holding the plate in place?

[@anthonylau3065]

I love the hot glue trick. Quick and easy and gets rid of the wobble. That trick must be useful to make other things level.

[@eddiestipe2009]

Thank you for sharing. Sometimes things are so simple. Thank you for the tip on hot glue what a great idea.

[@knecht105]

You're welcome Eddie! Thanks for watching.

[@judycharvey5790]

Thanks again. I was trying to use tiny wood shims but hot glue is so much easier lol. IDK how many tips I've used of yours, but I believe I'll be a subscriber for life!

[@martinjpkozak]

THIS WAS EXTREMELY HELPFUL

[@wayneblalock87]

Thanks Colin, I have a Craftsman saw with different set up ..but your ideas are going to be useful..Thanks

[@hermannk3138]

Very good idea with the glue. Thanks!👍

[@glennanderson8783]

Wonderful video, as always.

[@boyscout419]

Colin, do you think you''re getting through to me when I'm looking forward to each and every one of your videos? I appreciate your simple profound wisdom!

[@knecht105]

Thanks! And I appreciate you watching and the great comments!

[@JeremyMcMahan]

Several new tricks there. The Hot-Glue for leveling is golden!

[@knecht105]

I'm glad you like the tip, Jeremy!

[@bobd5119]

You are so right, Jeremy. If I thought and pondered for a thousand years, I wouldn't think of that.

[@rinofriio97]

Reallly. Highly professional.. Manuvers....great work

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@galland3496]

Very useful Collin. Thanks.

[@WillysPerformanceCycleCtr]

Great video Colin! Thank you.

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@ashschannel5024]

Another great video Colin, thank you so much for all your fantastic tips! Love the trick with the hot glue!

[@jimmurphy5739]

I don't drill in a finger hole. Instead, I just press down the back end of the plate (where I've placed the hold down nail) and the front end just pops up. Love the glue trick! Thanks Colin!

[@aaudain1]

Awesome tips, thanks for sharing

[@dennisteicheira7662]

Anthony Audain I

[@andrewbieger5004]

Hey Colin. Loves the videos with the tons of great info you are providing to give us non-professional types the benefit of your experience with less of the usual mishaps when I just "wing it". I like the idea of a solid, non split master Lexan template for the inserts, as my original (Delta type) insert is cast metal, with the split at the rear, as does yours. I am (shortly) going to make a stack of insert blanks to have on hand for various applications, but I want to try the router template method to save some time. One routing template method I have used before, discovered quite by accident, was the use of the heavy duty 3M double stick tape, which is approx 1/16+ thick, one inch wide and comes in a 10 foot roll. I was looking for my roll of the regular double sided stuff (thin variety) in my shop, without success. I found a partial roll of the thick stuff and used it to attach the template to the new work piece. Using the traditional pattern bit with a bearing worked well with careful adjustment, as the double stick tape is just thick enough for the clearance needed to avoid nicking the template. The downside of that 3M tape is the cost (approx. $6/ roll). I have found that you can cut the stuff in half lengthwise and still works well, as it is very sticky stuff. ATB

[@knecht105]

Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!

[@DavidWhite]

I really liked the hot glue on the plate what a great idea Well worth the price of admission... Thanks Collin

[@jonwilson1866]

Thank you for this video. It was very helpful.

[@lachlananthony6983]

Simple, easy and effective. Nice on

[@knecht105]

Thank you!

[@mr.silverkeys6467]

Well done! The hot glue level . Genius!

[@BengalsOfRidanos]

You are good teacher!

[@knecht105]

Thank You!

[@Bramsshed1913]

Good idea that, the hot glue to level up ! Cheers, Bram.

[@knecht105]

I'm glad you liked it. Thank for watching!

[@Kqto]

That's exactly what I was looking for, my table saw has a throat plate that's a couple of millimetres lower than the table so I must make my own inserts.

[@joycemiller4716]

Great tips from England

[@knecht105]

Thank you for watching!

[@11Burns11]

I made a plywood template using my original as a template. In order to avoid the flexible end I stopped half way through and swapped the ends. I was using a router table with a 1/2 inch flush cut bit with the bearing on the end. My saw is a Dewalt 745. I used your hot glue method of leveling.

[@rickbraden4272]

You Are The Man.

[@leebrewer1190]

Genius idea with the hot glue!

[@armychris9148]

Thank you sir great video

[@liamliffey8258]

Thanks Colin. Again a very good video. I have to say it would be useful if we could see the whole process with cutting of the blade guard. Thanks again.

[@knecht105]

Thanks for watching Axel

[@shotparrot]

+1 on this. I would think using the forstner bit would make an unnecessarily large groove for the riving knife/splitter/blade guard. How do we make the narrowest opening possible?

[@kateselby8734]

Thank you!

[@dannyeaster1976]

Awesome 👍

[@EdPalmatier]

This is great. Going to try and make some this weekend.

[@knecht105]

Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!

[@EdPalmatier]

I made four. Thanks again.

[@pikubird]

Neat trick, leveling with hot glue. Thanks

[@gosborne13]

Wow....super video. Loved the hot glue trick.

[@sedenter]

Thanks Collin!

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome, Eugen!

[@smithpianoservicing3421]

Excellent

[@robhimself79]

Your glue idea is really slick.. Some genius Red Green show level stuff, except it works!! I use the ridgid hybrid saw so unfortunately my plates are very thin and I can't use your method but it sure was fun to watch!

[@knecht105]

Keep your stick on the ice. -Red Green

[@bobm6423]

Rob, find a solution yet? My Ridgid throat plate is also very thin.

[@weekendwarrior9570]

excellent

[@davidvaughn9152]

Hey Collin I have an old Black and Decker table saw with a square insert and 3 offsets along the edges. Any ideas on how I can build an insert for this saw?

[@melkc345]

Thanks. Jim

[@knecht105]

You're Welcome!

[@johnwadsworth7086]

thanks colin

[@davepillow8478]

Hi Colin, I’m new to woodworking. I’ve been watching your videos and I appreciate your tips on how to do certain things with the jigs. I have a question about using a dado blade. I have a Craftsman table saw that I bought in 2019. I want to make finger joints/ box joints. My saw has a writhing knife that can’t be removed. I want to make a zero clearance insert. My question is, will the writhing knife be in the way of dado blades when I make the cut ? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

[@TrionAlpha]

That hot glue trick is a great idea. Do you recommend coating the throat plate with polyurethane or wax to help wood glide over the insert? Seems like it would help as you run wood through the blade.

[@leebannister3759]

great video. for a dado insert, do you put a full stack in and slowly raise it up to cut the blade hole? or something different like cut one blade and then jig saw out the hole?

[@TheMistashmoe]

Good video. Dumb question but do you have a video on making the plastic template?

[@MrGoosePit]

Love the hot glue gun trick. Thanks Colin!

[@Bramsshed1913]

I need a zero clearance insert, so where do I look first ? Thanks Colin and the hot glue tip is a good idea Many thanks, Bram

[@JamMastaJew]

You just watched a video about how to make one

[@realdarkknight7679]

If I make a throat plate for a dado set, do I just raise the blade up through the wood the same way as in a single blade? Also, do you then make a dado plate for each thickness or just make it to the thickest dado setting? Thanks

[@kentrichardson9070]

You forgot to mention to use a smaller diameter saw blade such as a 7”-8”-9” to make the initial cut. A dado blade will work to. I rout a recess for my inserts. I usually make a bunch at once out of 1/2 mdf. Like you, I make a template for a tighter fit. I also tap and thread leveling scews right in the saw that only have to be adjusted once.cheers.

[@sherwinerwinpia8686]

Now i know how to use hot glue, what a great idea, thank you for the tip....

[@woodstover]

I've made a few out of 1/2 BB but I found they warped after a short amount of time.

[@asietz2170]

do you have experience with the chip formation above? will that be less with the zero split insert?

[@talltimberswoodshop7552]

If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, tape off the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside, filling the slot. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.

[@andrewkanis3383]

so to accommodate the angle when the blade is tilted would you slowly tilt the blade while it is totally up and running or would you lower the blade tilt the blade totally over and re plunge it thru the plywood ?

[@daddywoofdawg]

Any thoughts on making a "clip" for the insert? I have a craftsman table saw 113 series and on one end it clips under the lip. haven't figured out how to tackel that issue.

[@kennyg6482]

I have the same issue.

[@akaredcrossbow]

James McGuire router! Leave just enough material where the tabs are then use a router to shave them down to the correct thickness.

[@craigwarner1060]

Use packing tape, its thinner and allows the insert to be closer to the plane of the table saw. There will be less of a lip on the outboard end so the work is less likely to snag on it.

[@jram1852]

sorry for the stupid question, what is the purpose of the insert and can you still make angle cuts with it inserted?

[@ronaldzilli2005]

For a dado insert would you do the same thing, raising the dado blades up into the plate?

[@user-hd8ej8yx9p]

Ronald Zilli sane question, I wonder if it’s too think and will make the insert break?

[@kennethspengler9934]

Yes

[@carmendesjardins53]

My original throat plate is made of metal and is less than 1/8" thick. What material should I use to make a zero clearance throat plate? Is it OK to use 1/2" plywood and thin the underside edge to fit the opening?

[@manuelurdaneta8649]

I am going to buy my first table saw, how do you make an insert for the inclined blade?

[@mdk2066]

Well, I don't understand - earlier in the video you couldn't put the blank insert in because the blade couldn't be cranked down enough. Then you could to cut the kerf. Smaller diameter blade?

[@sherwinerwinpia8686]

I've noticed that your blade is red which looks like a diablo blade, please advice me for some best table saw blade (of coarse considering the price and quality) to use for a new DIYer like me, thank you

[@TheLookingOne]

Hey Colin ! For a dado insert, do you just run the dado stack up through? How many dado inserts did you make for your stack? How many blades are in your stack?

[@davidrocha9579]

I have the same question. I'm new to this and need to make a dado plate.

[@TheLookingOne]

@@davidrocha9579 Hey David, if I don't find out before, my plan is to try about 3 inserts first (in hyper-safety mode), and if all goes well, move on up to 8 inserts. What do you think?

[@scottreichinger3218]

Like many of the other comments, love the hot glue tip! Any chance for one of your 5-minute hacks videos on using hot glue? I don't own a hot glue gun. I think I need to get one and learn more about using them because I'm sure I'm missing out on some handy uses like in this video. Thanks again!!

[@knecht105]

I'll add the glue gun tips idea to the list of videos to make for the future. A glue gun is worth having in your toolset. Thanks for watching!

[@spenzo144]

What does the screw do? Where is it screwing into?

[@RealRuler2112]

Say one has a contractor's saw, the metal plate is ~1/8" thick, and that's all you have to support it. When plywood is thin enough to fit, the throat plate flexes. Any ideas of how to overcome this? I'd thought about casting a plate out of aluminum, but that's a lot of work.

[@Joe-ks1jx]

RealRuler2112 Use thicker material and mortise out the areas that will contact the plate supports to fit. You can use a drill bit, router, or chisels to get just the areas that contact the saw to the right thickness.

[@derekwynn1778]

Get a piece of aluminum flat stock

[@frameriteairdrie578]

Also, look for Izzy Swans video about making a zero clearance insert out of PVC pipe. His saw also has a very thin lip on it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZa2e4SHjtpnbZo

[@francoiskleingeld6194]

Can you make an insert with perspex?

[@dennisbracci9212]

great video. I s that a craftsman glue gun. If it is i have one just like it. got to be 50 years old. All american made

[@daveduback7974]

Safety is important! A big fringe benefit is greatly reduced tearout on many materials...

[@knecht105]

Agreed. Thanks for watching Dave!

[@christopherdekonstrukt444]

Need one for 45 degree angle to make bevel cuts.

[@andreabasney]

I have to use a smaller blade to make the first zero cut in the insert, because my 10” blade (while in place) doesn’t retract below the bottom of the insert. Problem: I can’t find a smaller blade that has the same kerf thickness as my 10” blade. What is the solution here?

[@cheek1m0nkey]

I've used two 7 1/4" blades to make the first cut.

[@bethmurrow5626]

Hi there! I know this is an old video but j was hoping you could still answer a question for me. I have an old craftsman table saw and I want to make a zero clearance plate. But the origanal one is steel, strong but thin, an 1/8" thin. I can't buy a plate because it's discontinued. How can I make a plate that is strong but thin? I made a plate for my portable table saw, it's an 1/8" , out of wood but it's not strong and has bowed some because of humidity. Can you help me out? Thank you

[@MelindaAKraft]

I have the same saw and problem. I was wondering if I could route the edges of 1/2" plywood to fit? That's pretty thin, though.

[@j.m.castilla7150]

OK, gracias por sus videos, thanks for your videos Subscriber: J.M.Castilla@2018

[@knecht105]

You are welcome!

[@marko6394]

My blade doesn't retract below the bottom surface of the throat plate. What's the best way to elevate the plate to get the blade started?

[@wooddoug1]

Put an 8" blade on your saw to make the cut

[@tonydeleo3642]

I think I would leave the tape over the hot glue so that, should the glue soften, it won't stick the insert to the saw.

[@chrisweigand1817]

if you never use the router what's the need for the plastic template? Why not just trace your factory insert?

[@hansbachtold1966]

💪💪💪🛠🛠🛠👍👍👍

[@TheOrcasRule]

I don't have hot glue, but I wonder if a silicone caulk would be basically the same?

[@TheOrcasRule]

(Of course hot glue dries almost instantly, so that's a big advantage there.)

[@TheOrcasRule]

As it turns out, I just made a zero clearance and a 1/2 inch dado insert, and they were both perfectly level so I didn't even need to worry about the hot glue!