Making the Cill And Head On a Sash Window Part 2 - Mighton Series

[@BradshawJoinery]

www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1234343315/bradshaw-joinery-sash-window-sketch-up Visit my Etsy store for the Working Sketchup model and cross section drawings of this window.

[@88flik88]

Little tip for you, have the step in the cill further back and rebate the bottom of the sash over it, i always think it wouldn’t take much for someone with a crow bar to get all the way under the sash and pop the fasteners doing it your way, will help with part Q compliance on building regs

[@mauserkk98]

Great start.

[@rick91443]

Great stuff. I never have seen these styles of windows here in France; saw them when living in the states on the east coast...cheers..rr Normandy, Fra.

[@raydriver7300]

That was brilliant, Oliver. Such clear explanations and demonstrations by the master. I wondered where you’d gone 🌞

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Ray! :) Good to hear from you too

[@chrisallen4328]

Good to see you back mate.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Chris, I've been mega busy hopefully get a few videos out but I've a hectic summer ahead too haha

[@zeuszuki6698]

Love your work and enjoy the channel 😀 I wish I had all that awesome machinery at my disposal 😍 I am currently rebuilding a bay window fully as the whole thing is rotted out (12 windows incl lead lights, sills, the lot) and only have a table saw and hand tools but its going well. Your uploads help me hugely with strategy at each stage and provide great little construction tid bits. Thankyou for this invaluable content, very much appreciated 👍🍻

[@BradshawJoinery]

thankyou! Its great to hear success stories following any advice given or shared!! Keep up the good work

[@alexeynechaev266]

Tremendous value of the video for those looking to build windows. I am planning to build the whole-house package myself and one of the first questions - choice of wood. Stuck between African Sapele and Accoya/Kebony. How long did you use Accoya lumber, did it keep up with advertised rot- and mold-resistance?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Just use accoya would be my advice. PU glue, stainless or brass (no mild steel) and anti stain paint.

[@rocklobstersteve]

What would be the best glue to use for assembly?

[@Quaker521]

Impressive and skilful work as usual Ollie. Though I'll never build one I do find your videos interesting to watch and you do nicely explain the process. Thanks for the upload.

[@BradshawJoinery]

thankyou matey really appreciate it! :)

[@nigelknight1435]

I have watched your video's and may have missed the traditional Wagtail, do you fit one?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes👍 it's in the long video of this whole build a few episodes before this

[@bchdsailor]

Always impressing work

[@BradshawJoinery]

thankyou!! :)

[@marcmcgettigan3580]

great video 👍

[@jedmc8419571]

Really enjoy your videos, great content and always interesting projects. Can I ask what the significance of your help for heroes wristband is? I'm a veteran 👍💪

[@Dazza19746]

Nice to see you back mate! Tossing up between the 100 mm rebate head or a dedicated cill head. I guess really I’d only be saving myself one operation ( making the step plumb on 9degres bevel) Think I’ll run with the rebate head for versatility 👍🏻

[@BradshawJoinery]

I would yeah. I dont really miss not having the cill head, although i would definitley get a spiral rebate block. with the square carbide knives. they cut so much better than the big long blades. www.whitehill-tools.com/cutter-heads/spiral-heads/100017/ Thats the dream!

[@Dazza19746]

@@BradshawJoinery that’s actually perfect mate! I actually remember I needed about 115 on the splay of the lowest bevel ( it’s 33 mm sash stile out here for the most part and the cills are 165x65) and I wasn’t keen on readjusting to continue where a 100 mm would fall short This does 125 !! Next time I get a couple of decent jobs, I’m on it! Actually got an 80 mm one very similar apart from no ‘scorer’ for a clean rebate, brilliant for Template work but, I use it with a bearing for my horns. ( until I get the horn cutting head and work out what I’m going to put it into 😂 RAS would be perfect!! Just not sure it would spin fast enough on the rail arm spindle 🤔) Ps. I was talking ( nicely) about you to Mike Lewis, from Accoya. He was out on a trip 👍🏻

[@JmackL]

Super stuff. Really admire your work. Any chance you would do something on your kitchen carcass method?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou, i may do in the future, but im not doing any of that work for a while now!

[@JmackL]

No prob. Would it be possible to get a sketch? I'd have no problem in paying you for your time. Thank you

[@christiangastin4229]

Dear Sir I am very much interested to have a go on making my own colonial double hung sash windows , ( 6 ) straight out format and ( 3 ) bay windows also colonials styles i have some understanding with tools , I am now retired near ( 78 years old ) and feel that i could possibly achieve my goal . I was quoted near $ 70,000 to supply and install that lot , i have just purchased a planer / thicknesser and i do have a table saw , a router and cordless drill , and ready to start , are the plans printable being a digital download or do i need some program to access the details .....I plan to purchase the plans . Kind regards

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI, you are buying a 3d sketchup model (no use to you by the sounds of it) but i have recently added cross section drawings with dimensions. These are 1:1 scale on A4 so you can print out and measure off them. If you need any further measurments let me know and i will add them to the document and help where i can.

[@310strawberry]

As ever really informative and so helpful. It would be great if you could list all the cutter blocks you use for each stage for us newbies!! Also what wood you are using… thanks again Mark

[@BradshawJoinery]

I will update the descriptions with this in time, thankyou!! As always there will be alternative tools/methods if you dont have a specific machine or tool.

[@tammamakkari8046]

Great video and explanation. Thanks! Wouldn’t it be easier to have the bottom sash sitting on a flat part of the sill instead of having a 9deg slope? We normally see the slope on the external side of the sill ..

[@BradshawJoinery]

In a more modern design window i would always have the slope on anything that couold get wet, steeper the better, but i would cut the bottom of the sash off square. so it touches at the back and creates a gap at the front for the water to drip from.

[@freebornjohn2687]

Great video. I'm making some Georgian casement windows and one of things I struggle with is the jointing and alignment of the glazing bars so they look straight and not up and down or side to side. Any tips or a video on how to get it right would be very much appreciated when you cover making the sashes.

[@BradshawJoinery]

When marking mortices flip the timber to its becking they are centre. The length when tenoning is important as the errors are multiplied so time needs spending here to make sure they are spot on. Other than that it's just alignment at glue up. A slightly larger mortice helps and can use a very fun wedge once they are aligned to lock it in place. Trim off after. I now groove half the tenon width out the bars on interlocking glazing bars and poke the tenon through the mortice so it can be glued to the other half of the opposing glazing bar locking them together if that makes sense...?

[@freebornjohn2687]

@@BradshawJoinery Apart from the first sentence I understand your points. I was aware that some people slid one bar's tenon over the other - though I have never seen anybody actually do it. Before tenoning the bars I put the frame together with clamps and mark the tenons for the bars. I've also tried having the stiles next to each other and mark across them for the bars tenons and likewise for the rails. I'm careful but sometimes it comes out on the piss. Maybe I should like you say make the tenons slightly larger to allow for alignment. Thanks

[@richardstevenson2727]

👍

[@holman26]

hope ur ok bud been a while

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks, yeah all good just mega busy.