Making traditional frame ledge and braced door Accoya Gates part 2

[@BradshawJoinery]

If you would like to show your support by giving back to us go to our Patreon page here - patreon.com/BradshawJoinery

[@catabaticanabatic3800]

Apart from having been built by Messers. Hepplewhite or Chippendale, I doubt there could be a finer pair of wooden gates in the land. A masterclass in the art of joinery. Definitely the best videos of subject on the tube.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha!!! brilliant, thats really great to hear, thankyou

[@jixuscrixus1967]

What a fantastic set of gates! Your shop, tools, workmanship, materials, accessories, attention to detail all absolutely superb. I’ve subscribed!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Very much!!!

[@gregsmith3406]

This is gorgeous work. Thanks for the video. I hope you get paid for your superb level of craftsmanship. 🤓

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Greg!! Mostly yes i work on commissions, unless its friends or family!

[@triplex86]

Awesomely good. Really superb - I can imagine those gates still standing proud well into the next century. A real joy to watch you build them - I bet your client was delighted.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers mate, Yes they are very nice gates and have not moved a millimeter since installing. I see them regularly! He is very very pleased!

[@rogueratt]

WOW….Fantastic……The gates are bigger than my shed. Love the workshop too. :-)

[@BradshawJoinery]

Haha! They are bigger than my shed at home too!! haha. Thanks ill do a workshop tour soon.

[@antonoat]

I have to say joinery at this level really is an art form, you are quite the artist! Cheers and thanks for sharing what you create! PS I bet your customers are queueing up for your time!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou Very much! I have a fair waiting list yes! Tricky to manage Loyal customers with long lead times unfortunately

[@alexyoung3387]

Stunning work.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers Alex

[@jackjones7615]

WOW mate they are spectacular gates and the video was brilliant many thanks. Robbie from Huyton Liverpool UK.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Robbie !

[@GaryThomsonJoinery]

I’m doing the exact same thing this week in my shop. Double gates. 3M wide 1.7M high, mortise n tenon joints. Nice job 👍 ( subbed 😊)

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks for the Kind words, and the Sub Gary! Enjoy making the Gates, Ill try and keep uploading more work as i encounter it!

[@adnanlami5373]

That’s amazing skill Beautiful gates

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thank you Adnan

[@michaelfabricius7294]

Great video! Thanks for sharing, good to watch a pro at work. Shooting the video must add quite a bit of time to the job....

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Michael, it adds a little bit of time to the job, the more i'm doing the easier I'm finding it to position and get better footage quicker, the Editing and handling of the big files is the most time consuming part. Luckily i have a very talented editor, to stitch all the footage together and setup the Channel/Videos Etc, i just have to do the work and film it.

[@johnsherlock7147]

Lovely work

[@BradshawJoinery]

Cheers John

[@rogueratt]

'Great', make it soon please, as I'm due to knockdown and rebuild my garage into a hobby/workshop...would love to get see some different ides.:-)

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Joseph

[@therabman_5606]

Lovely job mate 👍🏻

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou 👍👍

[@Bacrenfencing]

Beautiful, enjoyed that, keep up the fantastic work - subbed 👏😀

[@BradshawJoinery]

Awesome, thank you!

[@mtbslayer6414]

Hi great gates what I'm I seeing in the middle of the 2 gates when fitted is this some kind of seal as to stop prying eyes as You've not used a plant on rebate keep up the good work.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Is the stile of the gate, I rebates them together and added a bead moulding. It helps to keep the proportions of the rebate looking the same. (The moulding is the same depth as the rebate. I did this before glueing the doors together. I think it's in the film

[@TheNorthernmunky]

Stunning!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Again buddy :)

[@crm.carpentry]

May I ask, what is that your putting within the tongue and groove boards? Corking? Filler?

[@BradshawJoinery]

It is a Vgroove sealant. Very flexible and overpaintable. As it's Accoya and very stable I seal the joints with this and paint over for a clean finish. Sikkens sell a good one under the Kodrin range and teknos v groove sealer is good too. Teknoseal (2000?)

[@Homestead_Ireland]

Very nice job there! A credit to you. I noticed you removed the posts and painted them but had them set up to make the little side fence. Were they steel posts and how are they fixed?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yeah steel posts, flat plate on bottom with holes in, drilled and resin 12mm threaded bar into concrete slab.

[@Homestead_Ireland]

@@BradshawJoinery Thanks for the reply!

[@rachelwells3051]

Lovely stuff

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thankyou

[@jonathanwalker2219]

Very nice workmanship! Gotta love the wedged through tenons and careful haunch layout! We don't have these types of gates in the US. More sadly, we don't have much of a public awareness or the same history and appreciation for craftsmanship which you have in the UK; there is some, but it's more limited. We do of course have exterior doors, french doors, etc, but a common and more economical approach when someone is attempting to do good work is to use 'floating tenons', where both the stile and rail are mortised with either a slot or bench mortiser, then separate tenons are installed. Along with the use of epoxy these can be very strong if done right, but still not the level of what you're doing - really excellent work! So what's the story with the 'accoya'? Never heard of it or seen it over here. It looks to me like a very fast growing pine, maybe 'almaciga'? Do you find that these wide gates hold up over time? I think I'd want something a bit harder than the pine, if that's what you're using?

[@BradshawJoinery]

The Accoya is a radiate Pine, if you look for the Accoya website there is a lot of interesting info, and likewise the Tricoya website. The traditional method for making doors is well exactly that. Stems from how doors have been made for centuries over here. Buying a door from a building suppliers now will get you a dowweled door as you describe but there are still a few joiners shops producing proper joinery! The strength is testimony to the fact that doors are still swinging and in use from many canturies ago. I can't see a dowelled door having the same longevity.

[@jimbow2310]

Have another question for you. What formula do you use when deciding the width of each TGV when making your own. Do you go by the width of the stiles?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I usually do a drawing on the Google SketchUp or a rod in the workshop, dividing the full width of the door equally, making sure it can be made with the timber you have (bearing in mind t,g,&v has a tongue which is a further 7/8mm lost from raw timber width after planing and on board has 2 tongues if your grooving into the stiles. So. A 150mm raw board might only achieve a 130mm finish plank.) Single doors usually have stiles around a 100-120mm and bigger doors/gates 115mm-150mm.

[@RJ_Effect1078]

Amazing work and quality ! What finish combination did you use for protection against the elements ?

[@BradshawJoinery]

think at the time i was using morrells waterbourne joinery system, spray applied. there is a v groove sealant, endgrain sealer, then primer and 2 topcoats. its a comprehensive coating!!!

[@rickyblabla2796]

Did you use stainless steel pins? Not sure if they are needed given the finish you have applied.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes stainless 18g brads 40mm long. These gates are still perfect, I cycled past them last week. It's incredible timber! I wouldn't use normal galv brads

[@newlandpark]

Fantastic gates wish I had all of your machinery! can you tell me where you bought the hinges from please?

[@BradshawJoinery]

newlandpark thankyou, keep buying little bits it soon builds up, that's what I have done. The hinges were from 1stFixSouth, these were galvanised but they do some nice stainless gate hardware!!

[@newlandpark]

Bradshaw Joinery Thanks for reply

[@kevinfox2533]

Hi, I love your channel and I am learning a lot. I am making some large gates from Larch and have made one large panel comprising of boards that are glued together, this then fits into a rebate in the frame. Is this a good ideas or not ?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Kevin, thanks for watching and I'm glad the content is of some use! I'd say it's not a good idea, I would personally keep the boards individual like T,G and v matchboarding, and fit them with a gap between each board to allow them to swell and shrink independantly. A single piece could move quite a lot over a big board from fully dry in the summer to damp through in the winter! If you did keep the board in one, I would probably have it ontop of the frame(like a ledge and brace door) so it isn't likely to push the gate apart if it swells up. Or have a really big tolerance around the outside for movement.

[@kevinfox2533]

Thank you, that's how I will do them in future. This gate is rebated 25mm in all round so will have to see what happens now !! Can you tell me what are the spacers that you are using please. Cheers Kevin@@BradshawJoinery

[@frankmatibs8076]

Hello mate I'm making ledged and braced oak gates no frame I'm dubious about screwing the boards on as it stops movement But I'm worried that pins wouldn't hold the weight as they weigh a ton

[@BradshawJoinery]

Single dob of pu glue in the centre of each board at every rail and 50mm stainless brad nails should be ok. Could use stainless screws but they snap easily with seasonal movement.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Fire the nails in at 15 dedree angles. I prefer nails as there is alot of hold even with movement, 5 brad nails at every rail (four corners and a centre) on each board is brilliant hold. A pocketed screw can snap 👍

[@jameswilliams5982]

Hello mate. What are you using in the grooves?, exterior caulk?

[@BradshawJoinery]

It's v groove sealant, but yeah very sticky and elastic caulk

[@johanderuiter9842]

Silly question maybe, but how do you paint the bottom of the gate. Do you do this first or last?

[@BradshawJoinery]

I sealed the end grain before painting, then sprayed them, then laid them flat and painted the bottoms by hand. not a silly question at all, its something you need the luxury of time and space to be able to do a proper job and get a few coats onto!

[@jimbow2310]

I have noticed that some joiners screw on TGV and some nail like you have done. Does different timbers dictate what method should be used?. I ask as i am in the process of making a iroko gate and i am not sure whether to nail or screw.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Jim, yeah both are valid options, I have in the past screwed through the board face using pellets to hide, I have also screwed from the back through the rails into the board, again using pellets. It's a bit of a personal preference thing. Screws through the board face is strongest, but if there isn't enough gap on the boards for expansion it will pop the stoles off the rails when the boards swell, whereas using Brad nails, while it is strong enough to hold the boards in place, if there is any movement the tend to give a bit better and will allow the board to pop (easier job to repair) than if the stile goes. I'd be using stainless Brad's and screws. Otherwise you get black staining. There are several 40mm stainless Brad's on eBay cheap normally, about £35 for 5000. (UK)

[@jimbow2310]

Thanks for the quick reply :) I didn't realise iroko had a problem with steel. Does that mean iI cannot used galvanised hardware? @@BradshawJoinery

[@BradshawJoinery]

Protected steel will be fine, but to longevity id always suggest stainless. Especially Brad nails as where the pin is struck, it damages the coating, and that's also the part exposed to the weather

[@allydances]

Another beautifully crafted project. What kind of wood and how does it hold up?

[@BradshawJoinery]

The Timber is Called Accoya. It's actually a brand name as it's originally Radiata Pine that has been through an acetalization process to improve rot resistance and stability. It comes with a 50 year guarantee, it's incredible stuff!

[@jimbow2310]

Hi great channel!! Could you tell me what router bit and size you use on the ends of the TGV? Also what router bit you use to take the arris off? thanks

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks Jim, the boarding sits in a groove roughly half the boarding thickness, in this instance I used an 8mm groove, then ran a 45mm router bit to create an even chamfer and a v joint that can be sealed to protect the joint between the board and top rail. The Arris bit is 3.2mm from Axminster. External joinery paint warranties all state minimum 3mm rounding to all external corners.

[@jimbow2310]

@@BradshawJoinery Is the arris bit a round over cutter? just tried to find it on Axminster

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes it's sold as an axcaliber 3.2mm ovalo but comes with two bearings, one for roundover one for ovalo. www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-ovolo-roundover-cutters-ax807115?sel=666047

[@drewbyscoobywho]

Hi, great work. I noticed you caulking the joints in the tongue and groove. Does this not inhibit the movement of the timber? I am interested as I am about to make a large (3m x 3m) pair of workshop doors using the same construction method and had not considered this an option. Can I ask what type of caulk you use? I hope my doors turn out half as good as yours!

[@BradshawJoinery]

Hi Andrew, thanks for the Kind words, hopefully you can see how I've done most of it from the video!! The caulk is a v groove sealer designed for sealing joints in joinery and helps with spray finishing as it gives a smooth unbroken coating across the joint and doesn't let water in with seasonal movement in the joint. It's quite flexible but also shrinks alot during application. Sikkens make a good one as do teknos, called something like flexiseal. I have used it on these gate as Accoya has very little movememt, I've never used it on hard or softwood type boarding to see the results. I can't see it being a problem though.

[@kerrymckenna8725]

Amazing craftsmanship. It is wonderful to watch. You have some great equipment too. Do you make external doors and frames?

[@kerrymckenna8725]

Just seen another of your videos and you do! I’ll be in touch.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks, yes I do. A new video will be on soon.

[@evermore8888]

Again, superb work mate....I just wish YOUR CLIENT had asked for a clear finish rather than paint as having the timber and your craftsmanship on show would have been so much better to see.

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks again Bud, its fine, i like the painted finish, they look great and with the sprayed, opaque paint the grain texture still shows through. A lot of joinery is quite often hidden, it is not until its uncovered, or looked for that the skill that went into building it is seen!

[@jimbow2310]

I am confused why are you filling the TGV, surely it needs a gap to move?

[@BradshawJoinery]

Yes the nature of that style of boarding allows the timber to move, the sealant I am using is a very flexible sealant specifically for filling v grooves, it will compress and expand if necessary and seals the cavity which is practically impossible to seal with paint otherwise. Having it all sealed will help the durability of the paint coating. (Plus these gates are made from Accoya which has very very little movement so really the gaps shouldn't move. Anyway. Search Sikkens WV472. It dries clear so can be used on stained joinery before final topcoat too.

[@akhilvarghese2498]

Amazing are you able to quote me for a very similar gate ?

[@BradshawJoinery]

HI, Thankyou, I can quote yes! Where are you in the country?

[@akhilvarghese2498]

@@BradshawJoinery I am in Staines in Surrey.

[@FasterThanJesus666]

no idea mate how you have so few subscribers.

[@BradshawJoinery]

haha, thanks Simon, Slowly creeping up, :)

[@richardstevenson2727]

🫡👊

[@Janne1Hirmu]

Horrible music

[@BradshawJoinery]

Thanks, yeah refining the edits as we go, I am a joiner not a media expert 😂👍