Making your own high quality carbon fiber sheets with aircraft grade

[@compspace]

So great to see a new video from you. Merry Christmas :)

[@joel_laguardia]

Great to see you again Andrés!

[@hartmetall515]

Nice demonstration! How do you like the LG 735 resin for regular layups/ vacuum bagging? I'm not sure if you are using L285 in the video,but in general, is there a better resin than L285/287 available,even though it might not be certified yet? I'm asking because small 1 gallon (4KG) containers of L285 cost over 300USD in the US,and H287 sells for over 100USD per kg,plus there are additional substantial hazardous freight charges for the H287.

[@hortenmicrolight4961]

We used L160 + LH260S in the video. L285 and 385 might work as well, but L160 has lower viscosity and allows making larger parts with thicker layups. LG735 from GRM is very nice, it suits vacuum infusion very well, and we've produced a couple of non-ciritcal parts with it. LG735 is pretty much the same as Hexion's RIMR 935. There are certainly other industrial resins around, that are very good and maybe better than certified ones. So why does it sometimes makes sense to use a certified resin at all? Well, for several reasons: - requirement: you might not be allolwed to use uncertified material. At least in Germany it's the case for usual non-ultralight airplanes. - availability: chances are very high that you'll get a certified resin, such as L285, in the future. That's unsure for other resins, such as LG735 - in particular true when there is only one distributor. - quality: certification means that the resin is constantly controlled and its properties are bery well documented. Parts produced with certified resins are known to keep their strength even after decades of use. So for critical parts, which failure would be catastrophic, for example, a spar, taking the risk of using an uncertified resin might be intolerable. Based on this, we decide which resin to use. For critical parts, we prefer to use certified resins, while other industrial grade resins suit very well for the other parts.

[@foesfly3047]

Thank you for the English subtitles.

[@tommyn47]

Thanks for your efforts!

[@bhismaputra8559]

Good job on infusing that thick laminate😊. I have some problem with pinhole on my infusion method. I using low viscosity resin so it can penetrate well, no bubble, and Its leak free but it was still in there (pinholes). You mention in the video that slow infusion prevent dry spot ,but in my case because the resin is so runny the vacuum sucked it fast. Is this the problem that i had?

[@andreschavarria1450]

Thanks! Pinholes can occur due to several reasons: resin not sufficiently degased, too dry laminate, wrong or not suffiently ventilated release agent, ... It's always better to infuse slowly, in particular when the laminate is thick, as it takes time to wetten all the layers. Use a clamp to control flow speed and use good flow media, so that the infusion front is even ideally a line. It's important not to close the resin inlet right after the infusion front reached the end - unless you really know how much resin is needed. Else you might end up having a too dry laminate with pinholes. Let it flow somewhat longer. With a MTI hose you can wait until almost no resin is sucked up anymore. With a resin trap, wait until a good portion of resin is trapped. You can check of your product is properly wetted by checking the fiber volume fraction: A properly wetted laminate should have about 50%. For nice looking surfaces its better to wetten it slightly more, say to 40-45%. I hope that helps!

[@bhismaputra8559]

@@andreschavarria1450 Thanks for your advice that was great. I saw many youtube chanels like EC, RWC and many more did it in very good result but when i tried myself its just about those pin holes lol. Let me do some more practice.

[@jeanfrancoispoivre4438]

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