Makita 40 Volt: The Track Saw With Only One Battery

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[@OeStErA1EsCo]

Great saw especially kzbin.infoUgkxxnKxcY0vm4xjW8xkPbjaHuKt10gr-wG_ considering how drastically cheaper it is than every other track saw on the market. Only things I would mention is replace the blade immediately, the 24 tooth blade supplied leaves a lot to be desired.

[@JoshR512]

A little over a year ago I didn’t own an an impact. Right now I’m remodeling my sister in laws place. I’m on all platforms. Big change in life, from sitting down on a desk to tearing down walls. I blame it on you Scott 😅. At least some people think I’m happier now. Keep the videos coming.

[@LewisAvinash]

well said

[@toms9738]

So I shared your channel with a dude I work with, today he told me “the guy from New York has a new video out” I knew right away he was talking about you. He was born in Peru, grew up in Mexico and lives in America (Texas) now. So those are the only places on earth, so when I told him New Zealand his mid goes to New York. He is a great guy, just not to good in geography. 😊

[@Mrredham]

I have owned the corded and 18v versions for years. Once you get cordless it is very hard to go back to the corded saw. One less cord to manage makes it much easier to work with. As for the kickback. I have had 3 occasions of that same kickback. The kickback where the blade rides back over the track (like how your kickback was) is caused by the blade not being parallel to the track when you ran the blade. The front of the saw was angled slightly outward causing the back of the blade to catch onto the aluminum track. If you have any slack with the saw on the track AND you push it slightly off, bit into the track. There are 2 knobs on the saw that control the round wedges to remove any slack while on the track. The round wedges on my cordless saw are worn down so I work around it. For precise cuts, I have my right hand to run the saw and my left hand on the guide plate to help parallel. I try to be on the left side of the track, instead of being directly behind the saw on the right side. One major mistake I made was using a really thin diablo blade with this saw. I change the blade because I didn't want to gum up my Makita blade cutting down 4x8 plexiglass. This blade was too thin for a plunge saw and deflected. It cut into the base place a little and trimmed the aluminum on the track as well. I will try contacting Makita USA to see if I can get replacement wedges for the base plate. I should also note that the blade on my corded saw is thicker than the one on my cordless. I note this because my corded saw will trim off more of the splinter guards on my tracks, so if you switch back to cordless the splinter guard will not be accurate. Since your not keeping your corded saw, it will not matter as much.

[@poppacore6433]

This is one of the things I love about battery powered tools in general. In particular, circular saw when doing plunge cuts, say into some sub floor. Even if you get a bit of kick back, its extremely easy to control if youre holding onto it properly, as the batteries don't have the same amount of potential push as a receptacle does.

[@angrydragonslayer]

While it isnt as big as going from one to none, going from two to one is still awesome

[@WriterAndBanker]

I work at a company that does tool repairs in NZ. The team loves to work on Makita stuff because their parts and diagrams are top notch. Their post sales support in NZ is quite commendable.

[@jacksmith2315]

Working in tool repair, aside from the simplicity of working on makita tools, which brand would you recommend, as far as reliability? Which brands do you see most often and least often? Im in the US so its pretty much milwaukee, makita, dewalt, metabo. My bro and i are both in ridigid/aeg platform but switching. I have a couple m12 tools but thats for my automotive use. We are have pretty much narrowed down to makita or metabo/metabo hpt.

[@jacksmith2315]

One of my biggest reasons for makita was because of the ability to repair the tool. Most of us know the most common failure in power tools is the trigger. Makita tools have a separate trigger which makes it far cheaper to repair than most brands since most brands the trigger is an assembly/wired to the brain of the tools making it far more costly to repair since now you're not replacing just the trigger. Which the cost of replacing a trigger assembly ($100-150) thats not makita, you're almost better off buying a new tool since the cost for a new tool isnt much more than replacing the trigger assembly, well for drills and impacts/tools that arent $300+. Where as makita you can replace just the trigger for $20-30.

[@WriterAndBanker]

@@jacksmith2315 Oddly enough we see quite a few Dewault table saws, not sure if it’s just because they’re so popular or if it’s the design but we see a lot with motor issues, could be people just pushing them too hard. Our company mostly services industrial construction rather than builders. So their equipment tends to wear pretty quick. We don’t see too much from the cheap brands just due to cost of repair vs buying new, people always want an excuse to buy a new better one. Personally I quite like Bosch, their parts and diagrams are easy to find and buy so pretty good for self repair. Their standard of quality is quite good too

[@hurcorh]

Kickback on a track saw happens when you're plunging into the timber surface rather than plunging to full depth and then proceeding to make the cut. A riving knife won't stop this, only will aid when cutting thicker timbers that have a tendency to bind on the back of the blade. A longer track like the 1.9m track makita makes gives you a bit more free track either side of a 1.2m sheet for this purpose.

[@paulnorman8274]

Thanks! Makes sense. I have been using the corded for going on six years (on and off, I'm not a carpenter) and never had a problem. Thinking about going cordless, viewing this vid, and got a bit scared of my old saw.... :)

[@ackec-umsekkruch-ekucki952]

How we're talking about battery tools nowadays is also a tell tale sign of how much has changed within the last 3 years. We're no longer concerned about these being underpowered. And that's been my experience with the 36v version. Just recently I had to cut a composite worktop that was super dense and the saw never even blinked once. Just sold my corded festool yesterday and never needed it ever since i got the Makita 3 months ago. Greets from Edinburgh Scott!

[@DaileyWoodworks]

I have the 18x2 (36v) and have loved it. This looks more like putting a new housing for the single 40v battery. I have experienced the “active kickback sensing” or whatever they call it. It does work and quickly cuts off and stops the blade. I’ve never experienced anything like you’ve shown with your corded saw. This makes the battery saws much safer in my opinion. As for battery life I’ve never tested it but with two 5amp 18v batteries the 36v will go a solid day of building cabinets which seems on par with your 40v 4amp battery. I’m happy with my 18v Makitas and make furniture so I don’t have a compelling reason to go 40v. Another good video Scott!

[@ackec-umsekkruch-ekucki952]

Yup, I only have 3 amp batteries which makes me think I should consider upgrading as they don't last quite long enough. Having said that, battery powered is way better. Even if connected to a vacuum it's one cord less to get tangled up in the material. Also, safety like you mentioned. My last job was in a shop cellar and it was impossible to carry materials down as it was too narrow. I just grabbed my saw in one hand, went upstairs to break down the sheets and went back down again. Setting up extensions may not sound like a big job ones per day but doing it multiple times is quite daunting. And you just can't leave them laying about with customers around. Like your vids Scott and know many people that do too! Have a great weekend!

[@maisummarceneiroumdemuitos8037]

I have also 18V makitas BUY the 40V nailer is SO superior than 18V that I had to get a 40V platform to be able to retire my compressor. Some 40V tools ate superior, nailer and angle grinder fpr example, other ones appears to be on pair with 18V x 2 platform.

[@stefmin1357]

Hey Scott, I recently purchased a metabo bluetooth remote starter for use with all my cordless tools and any AC powered vac. Simply plug in the receiver between the wall socket and the vacuum and I attach the switch around the vacuum hose near the tool. Every time you start the tool the vibration from the tool signals the receiver to start the vacuum, it works with any brand of tool both cordless and corded, and any vacuum, Look it up, it sells for about $200 in Oz. Great product

[@mst5517]

I use it for ~6 months, it's really reliable and I'm really pleased with it. The System worked with every Tool so far. As a benefit you have the remote control/sensor on the end of the hose, so after you finished a cut you can switch the vac on and clean your work area.

[@travissanford9176]

Stefano. You are the man! Never would’ve found this. Thanks. Looks awesome

[@HDDopler]

@@mst5517 У меня уже много лет есть проводная и 18-вольтовая версии. Как только вы перейдете на беспроводную пилу, очень трудно вернуться к сетевой пиле. На один шнур меньше, что значительно упрощает работу. Что касается отката. У меня было 3 случая такой же отдачи. Отдача, когда лезвие едет назад по гусенице (как и ваша отдача), вызвана тем, что лезвие не было параллельно гусенице, когда вы двигали лезвием. Передняя часть пилы была немного наклонена наружу, из-за чего задняя часть диска зацепилась за алюминиевую направляющую. Если у вас есть провисание пилы на гусенице И вы слегка толкаете ее, вгрызайтесь в гусеницу.

[@Thomaslind66]

Regarding the lowered rpm. The 40v got 1400rpm lower then the 2x18v model, but the 40v one does have the same constant speed control as the new Makita 40v angle grinders, which basically means you won’t have a drop in your rpm when plunging into hardwood, such as oak. Great video. Cheers!

[@damienradford]

Bluetooth system on chip modules like the Nordic NRF52840 are priced at around $3.50 in bulk. There's no way they should be charging $100 extra for a pluggable bluetooth add-on to a $350 tool. IMHO they should either integrate it into the tool or sell the add-on for like $15.

[@WhangaFish]

Having to buy the aws chips stopped me from buying into the system. Already spoken to other tradies who have damaged or lost the chips so that was a deal breaker for me

[@kytddjj]

.

[@damienradford]

@@WhangaFish Oh yeah, I didn't even think about losing them. Users need to push back on Makita and get them integrated into the tools.

[@ealdydar]

Ive been running my 36volt cordless Makita track saw with a dewalt chop saw bag and taped the blade change hole and it does amazing on the dust to my surprise.

[@WhangaFish]

Mate thanks for that video. I hate tool review videos in general (unless they're AvE's). But that answered so many questions I had about this saw and the dust extraction as a system. The fact we pay an extra hundy for the chip is ludicrous to me. It was good to hear some thoughts about a tool AFTER it's use in the real world. No stupid torture test or running it flat out till the battery dies. Just on site use doin a job... so much more helpful bro, cheers.

[@dougsaunders8109]

That is because AvE’s reviews are as Scookum as Frig

[@neiledwards4780]

Another great review Scott, I own the 36v makita track saw and love it, appreciate the reviews as we don’t have stores in uk where we can try out tools before purchasing them so watching videos to get an idea of what there like is the only way. Love ur channel keep up the good work 👍🏻

[@Sgten01]

I ended up going with Dewalt's Flexvolt track saw since im already on DeWalt's platform. It's not as feature rich as Makita, but still does a great job and takes only 1 battery.

[@mtnbikeman85]

I have a 2x18v makita track saw. I really liked the cordless when doing my decks, I left all the deck boards long then one cut down the ends to get them all perfectly even before putting the picture frame boards on. I've also really grown to like the cordless in the shed to avoid the clutter.

[@MrDjpete1]

Hi Scott I had the same problem with dust on my track saw. Try covering the blade change hole with tape . It makes a massive difference as that's alot of open space for the hoover to combat . It make the extraction focus more on the blade exit where the dust is.

[@iamjogun]

Just wanted to say I love the videos Scott. I've never really built anything and I'm not a carpenter and don't plan on becoming one but dang these videos are just so interesting. Keep up the great work!

[@CraigularjJoeWoodworks]

its never too late to become a carpenter!

[@learningcoach1]

Thanks to your previous reviews of the makita track saw i bought my first 36 volt and i love it thanks scott for such a great review now i want the 40 volt (in time) awesome video as usual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@SamMarkham]

I'm not in the market for a track saw. However I am on the 18v Makita system and still watched the whole video. Great review

[@terrytopliss9506]

Always like your tool revue videos Scott,very honest. Thank you for the video.👍👍

[@135Ops]

That's a nice objective review Scott, makes a refreshing change from lots of paid promotions we see on other channels.

[@marcpeloquin1762]

3 things: The active feedback works well when you are going through deeper stock. You will notice mostly kickback happens at start when you are plunging, you are plunging at a taper angle (two knobs need to be calibrated, tighten and then release back a bit for glide). Another big point. Many makitas arrive with a very loose blade out of the box, sounds like the blade is supposed to spin on the harbor for safety. Mine was so loose that there was enough kerf loose to eat up the tracks lip, out of the box, the saw was vibrating, I checked and the blade was way loose and so not flat parallel to the tracks.

[@julianweiser9985]

Thanks! I'll check that when mine arrives today.

[@Peter-qz8oi]

Love your honest reviews!

[@danielwilliams3437]

Great review Scott. Totally get your point about the wisdom of getting cordless vs corded, if in most cases you have power on site and the potential hassle of having to juggle multiple batteries between being on charge or not. I recently got the TS55 as I couldn’t justify getting the cordless version given the need to have multiple batteries, plus seemed a bit pointless given I always use it with the vacuum. Loving the new cabinet videos as well! Cheers.

[@GPG7754]

I bought a 36v version and use it for everything. Love it

[@phreakyzeke5824]

Love your channel, custom cabinets without a cabinet shop is painstakingly hard, or can be depending on variables. Track saw for the win. Love the channel. New zealand is beautiful id love to come there and frame.

[@mathijslieshout4791]

After using a corded festool drop saw for about 15 years ( yes it was time to get a new one... ) I got the Makita 40 volt dropsaw. Its really good, very precise.

[@mytoolbox871]

I'm a bosch guy thru and thru, but i love my 36v makita tracksaw, its so sinple intuitive and just a joy to use, bosch came out with an 18v one, but I cant justify jumping oj it, yet, my makita works just great and I'm already used to it.

[@conorlavery4762]

Hey Scott....... enjoying all your content all the way round the world in Ireland 🇮🇪....... keep up the good work.

[@masontejera506]

Thanks for the great review Scott! Regarding the blue tooth dust extractor chips - TOTALLY hear you that it's super expensive. I've been buying the Festool blue tooth 'bugs' for ~$50USD and attaching them to all the non-Festool cordless tools that I want dust extraction on. My setup then effectively becomes corded, but I still like the convenience of having cordless options for all my tools if I'm building in a space that doesn't need dust collection.

[@nathankostelecky419]

Awesome real world review! Keep the videos coming!

[@richardgordon9649]

Cordless is the only way to go, I like a super clean work area and cords being gone is a welcome addition. My whole set up is cordless. At this point the cordless performance is spot on. And for the blue tooth vacuum I got the module for my Festool CT26 so the switch is right on the end of the hose to me this is about the best solution for all the different brands we use. Brand loyalty is ok but it's nice to pick the tools you want without being stuck with a certain brand.

[@wittworks]

I have the corded one and love it. Congrats on getting a free one! How did you establish a relationship with them? That's one of my channel goals!

[@adamcastle2691]

I have the 18volt track saw. Love it.

[@engdarfatgalalyelectrical1076]

Your work is great and helpful

[@brewclan1]

Hello Mr Brown ( - : i applaud the fact that you chose to give your current track saw to one of your (workers/mates ?) and in a way paying it forward as your new one was a gift....if i were Makita i would have been happy your honest review.

[@dannywening6233]

I had a kickback when I first got my Makita and wacked the track like you did.. I now use the little tab for holding it down during an angle cut.. figure it might help hold the saw down if i ever have another kickback

[@thorstenganther1828]

Try the 40V track saw with a Makita dust bag. Obviously it is a bit more dusty but it really gives you the full advancement of a battery saw. I use the bag when i’m working in the clients garden or drive way.

[@amuongosia624]

Hey Scott, that explains the kick back lol, I was using the corded track saw for full month of cutting laminated sheets, I recall does twice kick back, freaks me out! But I like the square sharp edge, especially if apply pvc clashing on the edge on the panel after cutting. It’s a better cut then table saw, similar quality to a Beam saw.

[@HDDopler]

У меня уже много лет есть проводная и 18-вольтовая версии. Как только вы перейдете на беспроводную пилу, очень трудно вернуться к сетевой пиле. На один шнур меньше, что значительно упрощает работу. Что касается отката. У меня было 3 случая такой же отдачи. Отдача, когда лезвие едет назад по гусенице (как и ваша отдача), вызвана тем, что лезвие не было параллельно гусенице, когда вы двигали лезвием. Передняя часть пилы была немного наклонена наружу, из-за чего задняя часть диска зацепилась за алюминиевую направляющую. Если у вас есть провисание пилы на гусенице И вы слегка толкаете ее, вгрызайтесь в гусеницу.

[@andrewcourt5156]

Hi Scott... I look forward each week for the next exciting video.. I like you way of doing an honest review.. based on the everyday practical use of the tool and what features “float your boat” and what do not / annoy you. That 40volt track saw is nice, but a bit above my price range for the sort of DIY stuff I do.. I started out on the cordless path with a deWalt drill that was given to me, then I went down the Ryobi one plus route which suited my requirements... but I have recently go Makita because I was able to purchase for $60.00 a very large plastic bin full of Makita cordless tools that a local kitchen cabinet place were disposing of.. 12v and 18v stuff.. a few a bit dead, but many impact drivers, drills, a planer,.. So am now a deWalt, one plus & Makita shop, and I have a misc selection of batteries and chargers to prove it!.. I need to develop a system to keep track of the batteries that need a charge or appear to be on their way out.. perhaps a bright red plastic bin to put them in, then at the end of each workshop session load up the chargers... Keep up the good work.. cheers

[@katrinabell7684]

Very Interesting SBC as always! 😎👍

[@RMMaryport]

Great review mate

[@jack_brooks]

I run a corded track saw and I'm really considering going battery, mostly because I find it really easy to get the cord snagged on the end of the track. That causes the saw to stop suddenly mid-cut, often wrecking the work and potentially wrecking the track. I now purposely set the cord out of the way before starting, but this is after learning the hard way. It is just one more step to forget. The vac hose isn't as much an issue because of its large diameter.

[@snwman862]

Good review Scott. I recently changed from the festool ts75 first gen 110v to the metabo cordless plunge/track Saw. Same idea as Makita singular battery run. Reason I went metabo was the cut depth can still cut 54mm doors(fire doors and front external doors easily) its strong enough to go through all types of materials I've cut. 50mm oak is the only timber I've to go through twice. Which to be fair even the ts75 struggled with.

[@gordonx145]

April 2022 bought this unit with charger,1400mm rail and 2 batteries $1299. Worth every cent after 1 day of use.

[@scandinavianfarming]

You need a sleeve on your vacuum hose. Specialy now your cordless, I just put one on mine, and now I don't have any snagging on corners or on the end of the track. it is so nice.

[@jamesthebuilder3141]

great review Scott as you know i like the other brand that wasn't mentioned lol i did have the corded Makita as my first tracksaw and i will admit it was pretty good i really did like the scoring function and like you have experienced the kick back which was a bit scary the flexvolt dewalt runs on 1 battery and has the riving knife but hey at the end of the day you buy the tool that is going to do the job regardless of the brand

[@VincentParrett]

Did anyone notice that last shot was using a Bosh tracksaw!

[@che_]

I did and I’m curious to know what’s coming next!

[@adriansams6066]

Like your honesty and integrity Scott...................

[@sappernz]

a good honest review Scott. Any wonder Makita does support you. Great

[@thetallcarpenter]

Great video mate. Interestingly, here in the UK a single 40v, 5ah battery costs £149.99 and two 18v, 5ah batteries cost £134.50 so the two battery thing may not be such a big issue over here.

[@lisaferrara8120]

I have used my 36V Makita track saw to square a dimensional framing post since I could not fit the post on my table saw. I use it for anything that a square cut is important.

[@whirled_peas]

$100 for the bluetooth chip isn’t even funny. They probably cost about $1 (+/-1) to produce.

[@spilleradam]

I agree that chip should be included, the XGT tools are expensive anyway just ridiculous $100.

[@phreakyzeke5824]

They probably cost mere pennies to make.

[@robertrada6040]

It's never good when Festool offers the infinitely less expensive options.

[@mozismobile]

The annoying thing is that most of the cost is the socket on the tool and the packaging for the chip. If they just built it into the tool it would cost $5, but the packaging plus the retail box plus the whole sales chain... that's why it costs $100. Plus it's another hole in the tool where water and crud get in and play with the electronics.

[@allisterdavidson9805]

@@mozismobile I suspect (just like the car parts industry) there is money to be made in 'add-ons' and if they sell it separately people will buy it. They only need 1 in 20 people to buy it @ $100 to be square over a $5 addition to the tool. Mind you - if they sold it already in the tool for say $30 more than the non chipped one, people would probably fork out the extra $30 making them even more money.

[@cyklatillbahamas]

Same with the festool ones, corded just got more power and grit, but the battery ones are nice when you don't need full on monster power

[@Cameron2874]

I have many Makita tools but not the tracksaw. I have festool and had the corded and after trying the cordless I decided to get it ( strange as it's the only batt tool I have that seems to have more power then corded) not sure on Makita bag but I find I use the tracksaw with bag n not dust extraction ( hoover) in tight areas or smaller jobs which makes it even more versatile than the corded version. Love tracksaws as started off with cheap titan one many years ago and never looked back but once you go cordless (especially if you work on properties when sometimes the power is temporarily off) the tracksaw was only tool I had to wait for power again but no more 😍

[@luciflash]

I've experienced kickback that almost spilled my guts (with the AC powered Makita Tracksaw), so a riving knife would have been a useful addition.

[@sparx2391]

I bought the corded Bosch track saw, which is based on mafell, I'm more than happy with it, I also bought the Bosch 18v circular saw, which they made to fit the Bosch and festool tracks, I think the corded one fits festool tracks too. I do like the Bluetooth function on the makita, they should include it with the tool though, for the price they charge.

[@raylawson72]

cracking show i just so admire your honest views ,,, thinking of purchasing a track saw now ,,,,

[@thekiteboatparty3568]

love the silent bits in ur vids

[@thekiteboatparty3568]

and the bro science 🧪 😂

[@Kaledet]

A small tip for scoring laminate. When i do it with my cordless 36V makita Tracksaw, i pull it backwards while scoring. It tends to give a more clean score. 👍

[@gordonx145]

every time I see a Scott Brown clip I am stunned that TOYOTA has not sent him a new van yet. he has for sure sold a $$$$$$$$$ butt load of makita tools ( i am up to $2,100 40v myself ) so if you are a toyota rep reading this then DO THE MATH !

[@tippo5341]

Great review Scott, should do a follow up in say 3-6 months to let us know how it's still going, and how you're finding battery life etc etc

[@michaeljensen32]

Love my bosch cordless track saw

[@booboo-nl3wi]

Great video, made a lot of sense 👍

[@koputai]

Thanks for the good, honest review. Nice saw. But I already have the corded version, no need to change…………yet.

[@cafepablo]

I bought the dual 18V cordless track saw because of this channel and I've loved it. My only issue has been when cutting thick lumber (1"+) that the blade doesn't cut square and tends to wander a little. The blade is so thin (.057") that it has a lot of flex in it so countertops and doors are an issue. The Festool appears to have a rear guide that keeps it square, but it may be operator error. Maybe I'm supposed to use multiple cuts.

[@noskills9577]

I’ve used that saw quite a bit on oak worktops, you need to cut in 3 or 4 passes to keep it really square - otherwise like you say the blade wanders/deflects too much.

[@liamthomas3049]

For that reason I've stepped up to a 2mm blade for thicker materials where I want to reduce that deflection. Seems to work well so far and also doing fewer passes as the blade won't distort when it heats up.

[@taicoun0ne]

like Scott has said many time: "If you use dust extraction, its no longer cordless."

[@davidlowson100]

Unless you have the cordless back pack vac.

[@georgemartin6389]

If you connect to the hoover you're no longer cordless. There by cordless tracksaws are useless if you like Scott always attatch to a hoover

[@EdwardT9]

I got the corded one 2 months ago and love it. I did get it to kick back once by plunging before the blade got up to speed. I think that’s what happened to you with the kickback when scoring.

[@nialstewart8263]

So the blade dug in rather that cut? That would make sense

[@miniplayerr]

300k coming your way!

[@Rompestromper]

The Mafell also uses 1 battery and is quite strong. I recently changed to the mafell and probably won't go back to the makita and festool i previously owned but all 3 are great saws

[@harveysmith100]

The Mafell batteries are compatible with Metabo tools. A nice feature

[@FixthisCD]

@@harveysmith100 nice to know

[@boobye6305]

@@harveysmith100 you mean metabo batteries are compatible with mafell

[@harveysmith100]

@@boobye6305 You are correct, the design and manufacturer is Metabo. I worded it as I did because the gentleman has a Mafell battery, if he wanted to buy a Metabo power tool he knew his Mafell battery would fit. Always understand that English may not be people's first language so it is important to be clear.

[@hairsonabobbin]

Mafell is at a bit of a different price point. The Makita is €325, the Festool €440 and the Mafell is €750. You can get a Festool with 2 batteries and a charger for the price of a Mafell body. It's an amazing saw, but you also pay for the quality.

[@ozeitonmendez3743]

Valeu Scott quase se machucou com a serra cuidado 👏

[@TheOffcut]

Great review Scott! Answered a lot of questions I had about this track saw. Still love my corded Makita track saw. And always using it with a vacuum, especially with power take off, I wondered if the 40V version would be worth getting. But given that my shopvac doesn't have bluetooth and that you need to get the addon for the tool separately, maybe I'll stick to the old fashion corded version. Still a bit jealous though :P

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

Yeah man, it is my favourite Makita track saw so far. But not by much! Being more workshop based, a power track saw is a good option for you I recon.

[@triggeredtroll6466]

I have the 36volt Makita track saw, I love it, it's got the dual 18v. Only tip I have is the makita track is a rip off, get the one off Amazon. The saw comes with a thin blade that cuts really nice, it's gotta be a little over 1/16th, the blades at HD are 1/8 if not close to it. So the only con I have is the makita blade cuts so much better. I don't have an issue with the batteries, I got the makita lawnmower and I hate it... if it has to actually cut thick grass the batteries last 10 minutes

[@TeToruFarms]

The corded version will probably last a lifetime.

[@michaelmancini5773]

I have the Makita ( Corded) track saw, my partner has the one your reviewing, his is more convenient, mine has steady consistent power, he's always using mine because we cut a lot of Oak and other hardwoods, corded is the only way to go.

[@juniorsalas3687]

Luuuuucckkkkyyyyyyy!!!!!!!! Cheers from Northern California.

[@petesheppard8798]

You should take a look at the Metabo tools. The Vacuum is dual battery, but has an autostart that works with any tool, because its triggered by vibration. The track saw is 18v and only one battery but somehow cuts like a champ. The dust extraction on the tracksaw is also really good. Metabo is slowly replacing my Makita tools...

[@davesmulders3931]

It's one of those tools that you mostly hook up to a vacuum anyway. So I just strap (velcro or preferably full sleeve) the cord to the hose and it saves me the weight of a battery. By the way, Festool sells bluetooth buttons that you can strap to the end of your vacuum hose. Press to toggle your vacuum, when you are using a battery powered tool. Great for quick clean-up as well. Works for me, even use it above the blade of tablesaws (with a shroud) to get rid of the resin or melamine spray.

[@alvarogonzalez4743]

Hi- It was about time those guys give you something. You should be a Makita ambassador if there is such thing.

[@gregfletcher3358]

Scott, you could just get the blue tooth device for the festool dust extractor with the remote control on the hose or pin it to your shirt or belt.

[@jimcoogan1529]

I have the Festool and as good as dust collection is I out a piece of tape over the opening on the side and it worked great. Then people starting creating covers you could clip in and take off to cover that opening. Might want to tape of your and see what happens.

[@Gidjoiner]

😂 There's a couple of scrapes in my tracks from the Makita kicking back 😂 I use a dust bag on the saw, that works ok provided i remember to empty it regularly

[@simondavies5411]

Hi Scott love the videos, I had the same trouble with my makita and I found that when i had more track under the saw before it starts the cut I solved the problem and have not had a problem since. Hope this helps 🙏 welshmen in crete greece

[@AdrianJTube]

Whoa. Close call with the kick back there. Glad that moment didn't turn out bad. Didn't think about the the riving knife or lack there of, but thanks for pointing that out. Would love to get your take on the things you learned while making the cabinets. I have never made cabinets before, but want to in the near future and some tips or things to consider / take into account would be appreciated. Cheers!

[@apsilonblue]

I've had kickback on my Festool which has a riving knife but it was on a 2mm scoring cut so the knife wouldn't have come into play anyway and I'm pretty sure it was my fault as I was really reaching on that cut and think I tilted the saw over slightly. I'd still rather have the knife than not though.

[@terryeckmeier7027]

Review " I like it, it's good." Given how modest Scott is that is a solid honest review.

[@wormhole2010]

i got a lot of respect for you giving an honest opinion of the tools and not just saying there great because they've been given to you. each yr a new model comes out, the price goes up and the quality seems to go down.. they should't even mention the blu tooth feature if they don't include it within the tool

[@outthere3461]

Hi Scott, A Utube vid (can't remember from who) gave me an idea to put a Makita dust bag that came with my Makita drop saw on the track saw of course with slight mod, and tape up the cover hole for better suction. The saw creates its own suction, not as good as a vac but very close, have to empty the bag often tho but beats dragging a hose around, totally cordless.

[@scottspropertyservices6877]

I do this aswell. Works great! I got a rubber festool hose adapter & slightly modified it to fit into the dust extraction point of the 2x18v track saw & now I can either attach a bag or the small rectangular 18v dust extractor (dcv750) Because Makita never make 2 tools with the same size dust extraction point, my only gripe with them!

[@ScottBrownCarpentry]

That's a cool idea, I might try that if I am trimming a door. Cheers!

[@felixboulianne8360]

Nice honnest review!

[@Pistol_Knight]

To cut down on your dust try looking for a Blade change 'opening' cover it clips into the 'hole' where you access the blade change, keeps the dust more in the machine give the extractor more of a chance to catch it I have one for the Festool saves a lot of dust

[@Dooban]

Just use a piece of tape

[@harrylenton9984]

Great review 👍

[@strummer6642]

The main reason I went for corded (apart from price) was that if the hose gets in the way, might as well tape the lead to it. Plus the advantage of using a pto on a mains extractor, and is a lot cheaper than buying blue tooth.

[@aarongreenway222]

Scott, great video. I noticed you've used alot of old clips of other Makita tools and its made me think about how you store and file all your video clips whilst editing. Id love to know how you organise it all, (even and editing spesific video). Im imagining a folder full of titled clips about each tool???????

[@chamferreyes6747]

I wanted the makita but I choose festool for the dust collection. On my jobsites it is vital and necessary.

[@sashaiaremko3109]

9:50 hey Scott, if you will cover hole on the side of the saw with the masking tape you will have much better dust extraction.

[@vemundmellevold3203]

Now i have done this, I do not understand why I thought og this and not Makita. So its probably not a good idea?

[@jamiemittermuller6470]

I love my corded makita track saw. I have built a shed, 2 planters. My only fault is I can’t get a perfectly square cut and that more a fault of my inexperience. My thinking is I use a plug in vac so might as well buy the corded

[@ny1984]

Maybe comparing to the dual 18v would've been showing the 40v advantages better. Thanks for the review!

[@pcplsdxtc]

There is now difference besides number of batteries. That's why he made comparison it like that. It's sponsored video. As well he is talking about riving knife and shows kickback from the beginning of cutting. Riving knife won't help in that case. So again. Sponsored.

[@gordonclark7632]

That just happened to me the other day and got the same result on my track. Was I annoyed! Sad for you but glad it can happen to a professional so I don't feel so incompetent.

[@g_force3857]

Had mine for a few weeks now, very happy with mine…. Festol still have same bevel drive motor which is why the have the the wedge, if they jam they shear the motor… pull it apart and have a look ask me how I know..

[@giuseppelibrici7584]

Hey scott so long without video!!!! Regards from Belgium my friend

[@user-ed5jh3ff6u]

Had corded, got rid of it because of dangerous kickback, have had 36v for quite awhile, no kickback, no cord. Thanks for the reviews,

[@user-ed5jh3ff6u]

Also the trigger on the corded has an odd feel with the soft start, like they are out of sink, cordless trigger does not have that issue,