Maple Fingerboard Re-Fret/Compound Radius/Fingerboard lacquer tips@StringTech Workstations

[@lukeh7776]

Interesting to see the neck finish work. Great video!

[@freto_cognito9001]

Absolutely beautiful video, Mike!

[@shadowstorm1928]

I've searched entire stores to hear a guitar play the way all of yours play when you are done teching them out. I've never heard of compensated bridges and nuts until I ran across your video. All my life I've played by feel and can't read a lick of sheet music. To hear yours play is like the first time I heard a note with my soul and the reason I started playing. Pure and free,or what a guy pictures as such in his minds eye.vWish you could tech my Alvarez:) cause you've got God's gift for musical instruments.

[@jipes]

Beautiful Nitro finish and great attention to details as usual. Great service

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Thank you kindly MMcC

[@johnstitt2615]

I dig the video. Saying hey from Niagara. ✌️🎸✌️

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Cheers John. Seasons Greetings. MMcC

[@Emiroj]

At 5:48 do you mean that the truss rod should be loosened a little bit before setting the frets in to get that relief possible? I am leveling the fingerboard right now and my truss rod is tightened so that the fingerboard is completely flat and straight.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

The adjustment of the truss rod will change from neck to neck. Ultimately; in a perfect world , after the neck has been levelled / corrected for the installation of the new frets; the truss rod should have a slight bit of load on it, so that when you back it off ... there is a little bit of relief ( even without string load on it ). Hope that makes sense for you ... Cheers , Michael

[@Emiroj]

@@StringTechWorkstations so If I understand everything correct, I put a bit of load on the truss rod and level the fingerboard flat. After that I dont release the truss rod and proceed with fret install straight away? I'm from Sweden so I'm having a little bit of language barrier!

[@StringTechWorkstations]

@@Emiroj That's right. Leave the load on / install the frets / level recrown + polish.

[@Emiroj]

@@StringTechWorkstations thanks man! Your channel is really informative and I've learned so much from watching your videos

[@wizrom3046]

Thank you for sharing your process and explaining it in such detail. It looked like you did not do any fret levelling after fret installation? Just a polish? I expected to see testing with a fret rocker and maybe some light levelling of high frets, because my work always seems to need it haha.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Honestly, that was a few years ago ... I don't remember. But I would think that I probably did do a light fret dress.

[@wizrom3046]

@@StringTechWorkstations thanks for the reply. 👍

[@stephenfeldman8104]

@19:15 you say the measurement at the 12th fret reads 5/32" from the top of the crown to the bottom of the 6th string. Looks like 3/32" to me. What am I missing?

[@StringTechWorkstations]

The string "E" distance is 5/32". The High "E" distance is 3/32".

[@jordandupont7430]

I enjoy these - thanks for making them. If you were using stainless frets wouldn't you have to radius each fret for each slot? Or at least every 2-3 slots? Then leveling them afterwards - would you use a steel beam along the string line ?

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Hi Jordan. I am not a fan of SS frets. I use the EVO frets instead. Never used a steel beam. I roll the fret wire ahead of time in a continuous loop. Take a minute and watch thiskzbin.info/www/bejne/gYrHmYmrrs5ql7M it explains my approach. Cheers, MMcC

[@jordandupont7430]

@@StringTechWorkstations thanks - I am installing some stainless in a guitar I have now. Have done quite a few and I really do like the feel of stainless (have installed evo several times as well). I am installing frets with a caul / press so I am switching caul radii every 3-4 frets to match the board.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

The regular fret wire has a lot more flexibility than EVO or SS. This simplifies the install; by simply over-radiusing the wire ... and then letting the beads "grab" the saw kerf to hold it down tight to the wood of the fingerboard. I find the SS too rigid ( IMHO ) ... where as the EVO is "slightly flexible" .... also allowing a bit more forgiveness when driving the fret home. I understand that lots of people use SS ... it wears MUCH longer than regular wire. I find the EVO wears about 7X as long as regular fret wire ... but is easier to work with than SS. That's why I go that route. Thanks Jordan ... this all makes for an interesting conversation. Cheers, MMcC

[@scaira60]

Michael, I always forget to ask, Do you ever bevel the fret slots with a tiny file before you put the new frets in?? I have seen a lot of guitar builders on utube say that you should bevel the fret slot a tiny bit to help the frets seat & reduce tear out if it ever needs fret removal. Thanks Michael🎸🎼🎹👨🏻‍🦯👨🏻‍🦯

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Sometimes with an ebony fingerboard I will open up the top of the kerf with a small triangular file. With maple I don't bevel that top edge. Rosewood ... sometimes .... if the kerf is a bit tight for the tang. Thanks for asking. MMcC

[@one1gretsch]

Excellent work on that Tele, with more "sealing" work than i could imagine. There are very few videos on the subject, on KZbin. And I kind of understand why, it must be expensive and for some, the guitar may loose it's relic appearance. But the maple fretboard suffer a lot, I guess. Question, can a "spot" lacquer job work?

[@StringTechWorkstations]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZOxZX2Xgr1mj8U

[@alexng3375]

Please don’t mind I ask. Did u say string height is 5 thirty seconds for the low E ? Or did u mean 5 64?

[@StringTechWorkstations]

5/64" from the top of the fret crown to the underside of the string ... at the 12th fret. Thanks for catching that ! MMcC

[@yoheff988]

I have a request, can you please indicate those small measurements in mm as well? When it goes below 0.25 of an inch I'm completely lost LOL

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Got it. Will do.

[@MoGiMaL]

Thanks again for teaching me to make a compound radius by hand. Do you think there's an ideal amount of taper to the cone shape for playability? For example Collings does a 14-26", which is more than I've seen you do here.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

14" -26" sounds nice ! As long as you under stand the concept and support the instrument properly ... you'll be in the driver's seat. Very Best Regards, Michael

[@bukcot]

EJ Strat has a 12 radius from the nut to the 21st fret.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Thanks for the heads up on that Marino !

[@StringTechWorkstations]

The Ultra features a 10”-14” compound radius that get flatter as you progress up the neck.

[@stevedimebag]

How long are you leaving that fretboard lacquer for before taping off and levelling/crowning the frets? Is there ever any issue with tearing lacquer off with the tape ?

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Good question Steve. I give it a couple of days to set, before rubbing out. Never had any issue with Darcy's work. Only on original Fender fingerboards. I'll post a video link tomorrow for you.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZOxZX2Xgr1mj8U

[@acanoli]

Gostaria de um dia ter a oportunidade de ter uma das minhas guitarras em suas mãos, seus trabalhos são incriveis.

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Thank you ! I have always dreamed of going to Portugal. Hopefully we get to meet one day ! MMcC

[@mikemikemike701]

EJ strats are 12 inch radius. Not compound, I have two

[@StringTechWorkstations]

Yes you are right. Someone else had corrected me on this as well.

[@김규식-s6y]

I would like to request a guitar. I want to change the curvature from 7.25 to 10. I believe it, but this is South Korea

[@StringTechWorkstations]

In most cases it can be done. We recently shipped another TechDeck to South Korea. Email me : [e-mail] I will find that contact for you. MMcC

[@StringTechWorkstations]

I did find a SK contact for you. Let me know if you are interested. MMcC