Marlin 2.0 on the SKR 1.3 with TMC2209 and sensorless homing

[@333donutboy]

I just found your channel and I subscribed! You explained settings in Marlin that nobody else even talks about (setting the voltage for stealth chop). I'm setting up my SKR 1.4 Turbo but the setting you go over should really make a difference. I would really like to see you do another video installing the SKR 1.4 with the wifi board and other do dads. Keep up the good content. THANKS!

[@crazyblazeX]

Thank you, I couldn't understand the diagrams to modify the cables of the Anet LCD and you showing what wire to cut and solder helped me to understand. Thanks!

[@souzsec]

Hello, I think your work is fantastic, your videos are easy to understand. I believe it is the best channel when it comes to 3D printing. I would like to ask if you can make a video to better explain the differences between stepper motor drivers and how to choose the best option among so many. Thank you very much and continue with your excellent work. Greetings from Brazil.

[@andremuensti4730]

Very good video. My advice: when enable SPEAKER , you can play a song when the print ist finish. But the code in the End-Gcode.

[@Crosslink3D]

Oh yes, I even made a video about this a bit ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m3XUm2p5d86NsNU. Still looking for more good songs!

[@jamescook6633]

Grate Channel! keep up the good work.Looking forward to your bltouch config video for the Skr-v1.3 for the ANet a8 frame.

[@Crosslink3D]

Coming soon!

[@Tom-yc8jv]

Why no senorless probing for the Z axis?????????

[@x_jaydn]

AFAIK the resolution for sensorless probing isn't precise enough to trust it for Z axis homing; there's an increased risk of your nozzle crashing into the bed

[@danielwren7202]

your videos are very easy to follow fantastic job very detailed ive just subscribed

[@davidcarausu9256]

i love the effort you put into these amazing videos, super usefull

[@andrewavdikos4110]

Really nice, I can say way better explanation than the other 3 guys , though i would like to suggest to reduce a little bit the rate of speach, as your native language is not helping with english accent, else (and/or) [if it is possible] add subs under so it will be easy for every one... Thanks for the explanations and effort... I will keep watching and hope to reach the 1 million subscribers.

[@TheQBall1977]

Loving this series, been with you every step of the way. I wish I’d watched this before upgrading would have saved me many hours. Have you considered adding LED or LED indication, or upgrading to Linear rails?

[@Crosslink3D]

Great! Yes, I'm thinking about doing LEDs! That would look so cool!. Linear rails, I am also investigating but still undecided if that is worth it.

[@honeybeeworkshop807]

@@Crosslink3D i did the linear rails on my am8 .... kinda makes me think of that line from Jurassic park just because we could doesn't mean we should... i saw no noticeable difference.. in fact since the rails are so rigid when the nozzle hits a over extruded section it will sometimes knock the print loose ... the round rods have a little forgiveness the rails do not does look way cool though ...... i am exploring the LED's with the SKR now

[@nicolasjaziel3610]

sorry to be offtopic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can offer me.

[@apollocorbin6279]

@Nicolas Jaziel instablaster ;)

[@nicolasjaziel3610]

@Apollo Corbin i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

[@x87alpha1]

For safety I would reduce the homing speed to avoid damaging the motors.

[@federicomilano5272]

HI! Great video! Thank you! Only 1 question; i reinstalled Marlin, but now the function "Level corners" is missing! Maybe can you help me? Thnx

[@mohammedj5835]

Whats your feedback about this board out of 10? Is it the best ? The average one on market? Why you choose it? I really enjoy learning from you. A fan from Kuwait city!

[@Crosslink3D]

I think in 2020 it's a 9 of 10. The SKR 1.4 I am getting soon for comparison, which I expect to be better. I chose it because at the time I ordered, it was the board that was mostly supported by the community and Marlin. I think deciding between an SKR board or an MKS SGEN is more about where will you get the most community support and I had the feeling that the SKR has a lot of following, so I went with it. Maybe going to try a newer MKS board in the future but for now, I am all in on SKR.

[@revilo.k3215]

Hey Daniel, please could you do an updated version of tyhis video, really strugling to get mine adjusted correctly, all the lines have chnaged and some sections look completely different.

[@kevins2678]

Great video, can't wait for the 1.4 version, So, 0.800v for the 2209 worked ok with the stock motors at the end or you had to tune them more?

[@Crosslink3D]

I did leave it on 800 for now and 940 for the Hemera

[@kevins2678]

@@Crosslink3D I'm running the 1.4 with 2209 with the stock motors and they get really hot with 800 do you still have good results with 800?

[@alpachino468]

I need to install my SKR 1.3 and TMC2209s into my AnyCubic Mega 3-S. So, 4 years later, are these instructions still valid?

[@justinskaggs96]

So helpful and thorough.

[@Crosslink3D]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kegra]

Nice video, maybe you can clarify why you leave the microsteps to 16 and not crank them up to 64 or even higher ? all videos I have seen leave this at 16 but no one explains why. Wouldnt be better to use native 256 microsteps and not interpolate to 256 ? or even interpolate from 64 to 256 rather interpolate from 16?

[@Crosslink3D]

It depends. Using more microsteps also means less torque per microstep, because the available energy is distributed over more steps, which could mean that it moves smoother but cannot push as as heavy carriages. This effect will be most obvious when the motors have to start a new movement or change direction, where cranking that value up too much might increase the chances of layer shifting. Good point to mention that, I will give it a try and eventually share my results.

[@Grumpyoldtwit]

Excellent tutorial. I've now got my firmware compiled and ready to go... Sorry for a dumb noob question, but, how can I upload the firmware to the printer if I can't run a USB cable to the printer? I print wirelessly over wifi using Repetier and the printers are on the other side of the room to my desktop 'poota. I find VSCode very confusing

[@seanlin97]

Why should someone use sensorless homing? Great info and video as always.

[@Crosslink3D]

Why not? Of course, switches work as well. Sensorless homing is just nice. Another switch that cannot break or fail.

[@seanlin97]

Crosslink You have a great point. Just wanted to know your opinion I’m new to 3D printers.

[@worms32]

@@Crosslink3D what about z axis sensorless homing? Is not it great to get rid off endless z sensors?

[@nikolascook6658]

@@worms32 I'd look towards a BLTouch or a different ABL system. The issue with sensorless z homing is that the lead screw system on the z has such high torque that detecting a small change when it hits the bed is difficult and oftentimes would not be accurate. The closest thing would be if you look at the new CR-6 printer from Creality. Teaching Tech did a good video on a mod to an ender 3 he did for this

[@stevebelis6589]

just know you can do it and if someday a switch breaks you can activate it. thats what I do atleast

[@meltonpieman959]

Great video. When you cover the BLTouch, could you cover changing the bilinear probe grid? I have tried to increase from 3x3 but seem to have all sorts of eprom problems then! David

[@Crosslink3D]

Yes I can

[@meltonpieman959]

@@Crosslink3D Great, I look forward to it. When I tried I got an EEPROM Index error! David

[@Crosslink3D]

So, I tried it also. Did you init the eeprom after changing the number of points?

[@meltonpieman959]

Crosslink I do not think that I did! Does that solve it?

[@stefanominervini286]

ciao, thanks for the video. I'm going to use SKR1.4 Turbo with TMC2209, sensorless on x and Y, NOT Z. Not sure if i have to cut the additional Pin for the Z stepper. any suggestion on where i can find info ? thanks again for your video.

[@derekrowe9199]

How is Z homing handled? I'm fussing with Marlin right now for the SKR 1.4 turbo with 2209's, and it doesn't look like you can enable sensorless Z homing. Can I still use a home end stop switch? I don't have a bltouch.

[@_F5X]

Eine Frage, ich benutze für X, Y & Z Achse TMC 2209 Treiber und kapazitiver Sensor fürs ABL (NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -44, -5, -1 }). Alle mechanischen End-Stops sind deaktiviert. Wie funktioniert beim sensorles Homing Z End-Stop wenn ABL Sensor ausserhalb des Print-Beds ist. Danke

[@curtiswest4272]

Awesome tutorial.

[@Crosslink3D]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Seamanforever]

Hi, great video! I've a MKS_SGEN_L V. 1.0 on an Anet A8... tried to apply your indications but sensorless don't works,,,I setted different value as X_STALL_SENSITIVITY and Y_STALL_SENSITIVITY, but x and y collide..any suggest? thanks

[@questionsfrog1918]

It doesn't work, forget sensorless homing. Even if you get the steppers to behave, they won't move at sensitivity 61 (but still send current to the motor so it gets hot which isn't how its advertised) and sensitivity 60 will send it straight against your carriage. There is no middle ground,stay on mechanical endstops

[@martinhyska1206]

I have same problem, for me it works only for low speed 50*60 feedrate homing. If go over 100*60, I cant find any sensitivity values to work.

[@martinhyska1206]

I found that sensorless homing works to max DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT. If set values for homing higher, it not work.

[@vandit6354]

I have an SKR 1.4 Turbo on its way which I'm fitting to an Ender 3. Does this Marlin configuration work just as well for that printer?

[@finalquest]

Yeah, just change the board for the 1.4 and the default_envs = LPC1769.

[@Crosslink3D]

Yes, but better look up the board name in the boards.h file and replace the skr_v1_3 with skr_v1_4, this is the same effect

[@marshalltjones]

Daniel, great videos. I had a question. I have an Ender 3 Pro into which I am going to install an SKR 2.0 board with a BigStreetTech TFT display and a BLTouch sensor. What workflow should I follow? Which .h files do I start with? SKR has precompiled firmware for the Ender 3 Pro with BLTouch, but I cant enable the TFT display. I can start with the SKR 2.0 .h files and modify things to enable the TFT and BLTouch per your directions. Not really sure. Also, the SKR 2.0 has a broken out header for the BLTouch - which option do use for the pins? Do you know if the SKR boards use a bootloader? How would you load it? I figured it anybody would know you would.

[@norbertseibert659]

Trying to get a SKR mini 2.0 with the TFT 3.0 working on an Anet A8. Lerarned a lot in the vid, but it is unclear to me what configuration file is used. Is it the Anet A8 or something else? I get the Ender 3 to compile, but there might be a lot redundant stuff in it.

[@minkorrh]

Hi Daniel, Great video! Do you know if the 2208's are the same setup? I ordered the same board but with the 2208 uart option.

[@nikolascook6658]

2208s don't have sensorless homing, if I remember correctly.

[@Crosslink3D]

2208s don't have sensorless homing and support less current per motor

[@OceanSlim]

I got my x and y axis working but can't seem to get my z axis working with bl touch.

[@martinhyska1206]

If I use default marlin homing values feedrate 50*60, I can manage to work it. But if change homing feedrate speed to higher values like 120*60 i get total scrap homing sensitivity. I go slightly down with sensitivity, but it not moves and when continue slightly down get big crash.

[@martinhyska1206]

From my testing sensorless homing not work at all when homing feedrate > steps per unit.

[@ReubenHorner]

Hey there, whats the story on the diag pins for the xy axis that need to be hooked up for sensorless home on 2209?

[@jukkapekkaylitalo]

So i have been trying out sensorless homing/probing with Z axis. So i want to know is what is minimun current requirement for dual motor z axis? Because Low Z stepper current means more sensitive Homing/probing.

[@acestu]

Hi Daniel, The Bigtreetech TMC2209 drivers come with a factory set vref of 1.2 volts and my stepper motors have a nax current of 900 milliamps, so would this be 900 / 1.2 = 750 ?

[@kaiserucho]

Hi! maybe can help me to configure the tmc2209 for my anet a8? lose steps and motors to hot, maybe can share the config for the printer? I use mks robin nano v2 with 5 tmc 2209 and 12v power supply

[@Enjoymentboy]

I know this is probably a dumb question but how do you change which side the x axis homes on? If it currently homes on the right side but I want it to home in the left what setting is that to edit?

[@Crosslink3D]

I think X_HOME_DIR it will be

[@Enjoymentboy]

@@Crosslink3DAWESOME!!!! Thank you!

[@halfuglaar3394]

X_HOME_BUMP and Y_HOME_BUMP is no longer defined in the config files for Marlin 2.0.6. I tried using a older file from the Anet A8, but the build failed saying it has a older config file and use the current config file.

[@Crosslink3D]

Yep, start fresh with the config file matching the version

[@halfuglaar3394]

@@Crosslink3D So then sensor less homing will work ok without it being defined? Thanks

[@questionsfrog1918]

@@halfuglaar3394 it won't work either way,save your time

[@bin2hellnbak]

I have followed the tutorial multiple times but i get this weird problem where my z wont home properly, it just stays in place and sets its position to homed. I havent put a jumper on the z pins. When i jump the z pins for sensorless homing, the z does move down except it doesnt stop moving. Im not sure how to disable sensorless homing for the z axis.

[@bin2hellnbak]

Actually the reason for this, if anyones wondering is i needed to invert my z endstop logic in the firmware. Ofc I just find out after posting the above comment

[@pl5882]

Let me see if this video can help me finally compile Marlin 2.0....

[@Crosslink3D]

And how did it go?

[@lovecastle7154]

FYI if you enable MONITOR_DRIVER_STATUS you may get a 2hz clicking noise on the stepper drivers - I had to turn this off as I couldn't find any other solution

[@5am___]

I find your videos very helpful and was wondering if you could do one of these for the SKR Mini E3 V2.0

[@kovdenyr]

I did everything according to your instructions, but the stepper on the X axis does not work out and slips in place, and on the Y axis it twitches slightly and nothing else. Something is missing from your instructions.

[@yarinmauda]

first of all thank you for all of you videos i wanted to know when the skr 1.4 turbo with TMC2209 installation tutarial will be uploaded end if i can use this video configuration on my skr 1.4 board (i have an anet a8) tnx in advance

[@Crosslink3D]

It is planned but still needs to be done probably somewhere in September

[@stephenkosloff6081]

brilliant i got the moming working

[@ahmetbozac1861]

you didnt cut any pin on tmc2209 for z endstop? i read we have to cut some pin on tmc2209 if we wanna use normal endstop .

[@Crosslink3D]

Nope, no pins to cut

[@ahmetbozac1861]

@@Crosslink3D ok ı learned it is for skr v1.4

[@matuskunik2068]

Hi Daniel, can you please provide us the config file of your settings.. I need to check my config with yours, what are the differences, because of layers shift and weird fast sharp printer movements.. Thanks.

[@jsebtarot5006]

I have AM8 with original Stepper same marlin when i set X=85 is not enought 84 the moteur grrrrrrr. I don't understand why. I use MKS GENL v2.1 but are same problematic can you help me ?

[@kkmechanics]

Daniel Hi, I did a skrv1.4 turbo upgrade on my anet am8 blv edit, but my prints are getting Y axis mirrored, tried home inverting settings but so far no success. Do you have an idea?

[@Crosslink3D]

Did you change any of these? // Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way. #define INVERT_X_DIR true #define INVERT_Y_DIR true #define INVERT_Z_DIR false

[@kkmechanics]

@@Crosslink3D Thanks! I did a mistake in those lines. Cheers Daniel.

[@anteyru]

If you have a choice, then which motherboard to choose: SKR 1.3, MKS SGEN_L, Lerdge-X?

[@Crosslink3D]

I would take the SKR mainboard. But that's just my personal preference.

[@ahmetbozac1861]

mks sgen l nearly all pin same like skr v1.3.

[@stevebelis6589]

Hey, thanks for the vid helps me out alot ! I have one problem tought. When I change my stepper moter current in the Firmware it doesn't effect my stepper drivers. When I mesuer them out they still will be at standard Vref setting. I tried to reupload the firmware but it will not work. Has anyone an idea how to fix this.

[@TotoGuy-Original]

can i use the same steps per mm from 8 bit configuration in 32 bit?

[@Crosslink3D]

Yes

[@marianodiaz461]

Hi; how about setting the z home with mechanical switches please?

[@Crosslink3D]

Can you explain a bit what that means for you? I am using a Z-Switch for endstop in this video already.

[@marianodiaz461]

Hi ; what I mean is that I can’t see a reference to the manual home switches setting on the Z axis on this video.. ( at least I can’t) . I have been trying to stop the movement of the Z axis on the home command by closing a switch wired to the Zmin ground and signal , but the axis keeps going , I heard that there is an issue with the pull down resistors on these boards? What do you think?Thank you for the prompt answer..

[@christianeisner3590]

Vielen Danke!

[@robertjamessantos9708]

Can you please help me compile a firmware for a ender 5 plus with skr2 stm32f429vgt6, tft35 v3.0 screen, dual gear extruder. Im a newbie and having issue compoling and getting so much errors. I don’t mind paying if that is necessary. Thank You for all the vids you makes. It makes my work easier on printing stuff

[@luizcarlosfelizari1982]

Thank you!

[@thumbwarriordx]

lol my anet power supply blew up and I'm just here mentally preparing myself in case the PSU failed high and fried everything. Upgrades were due anyway I suppose.

[@LocDeu]

Hallo.Daniel, super video, aber der Hintergrund ist schon echt dunkel... Du bist gut ausgeleuchtet, als wenn im Hintergrund was fehlt.

[@Crosslink3D]

Ja, am Hintergrund des Studios muss ich noch arbeiten ;-)

[@stephenkosloff6081]

my skr1.4 turbo board does not work, it does not boot up - BIQU are not responding to me - i have been trying to resolve things with them now for 3 weeks - VERY POOR AFTER SALES SUPPORT - BEWARE

[@marcalamo]

How to fix this? #include errors detected. Please update your includePath. Squiggles are disabled for this translation unit (C:\Users\Alamo\Documents\Marlin\Marlin\src\MarlinCore.cpp).

[@s8nlx661]

If anyone is using an Ender 3 with an skr1.4 (regular or turbo) you don't have to invert anything. Its built in for 2209 and sensorless homing to make it easy. Youll get fails

[@JohannSpringsits]

can i upoad the config h trough arduino ide?

[@BrettCulley]

is it safe to unplug the endstops afterwards? i am leaving my endstops in physical place for now, because my 3d printer uses the actual endstop to hit home on x and z

[@Tom-yc8jv]

That completely defeats the sensorless homing feature if you do. What do you think the sensorless homing does?

[@goes2112]

I loved my A8 but can't justify pouring money into it. Probably going to junk it. My Sidewinder X1 is so much better.

[@Crosslink3D]

This is all about the fun of tinkering. You can certainly buy something new that has a lot out of the box. Depends on why you are in the hobby

[@Godzillah]

Just a buy a new machine bro. New one have all of this.

[@Crosslink3D]

Sure, but where would be the fun of transforming something average into something totally unique, customized and awesome?

[@daanvolvo5719]

What are the benefits of the skr 1.4 besides the original main board on the anet a8