TMC2209 and TMC 5160: Guide for MKS Gen L and SKR V1.3

[@TeachingTech]

My apologies for the flickering light. I'm always trying to improve lighting and sound, trying a new setup for this video. Alas, it didn't work out so well. I will continue to try and improve things.

[@parrita2300]

I'm more concern that you look like a muppet behind the desk on the intro :P

[@TeachingTech]

Haha I can't argue with that.

[@thomasmroz]

I just connected a brand new monitor and this was the first video I played on it.. Was worried until I scrolled down.. lol

[@QuantumRob-yt]

Content is King my friend. The content always makes up for the little things. Don't sweat it!

[@airwolf...]

You ever planning on upgrading to a 4K setup?

[@tensioncompressionshear4758]

Note: As of November or earlier, there is no longer any need to solder a jumper wire between clk and gnd for the BIQU/BIGTREETECH TMC5160 V1.2. They have an internal 10k pulldown resistor to connect clk to gnd (you can verify with a multimeter). You do still need to clip or bend the clk pin to prevent the control board clock from interfering with the internal clock. Thank you for a great guide!

[@marsyas9860]

You sir, are an AMAZING contribution to the 3d printing community and I just wanted to have you hear it directly from me. My SKR v1.3 was delivered today and I'm in the middle of setting it up. I literally have a full set of 2208's in my Amazon cart right now and am going to switch them over to the 2209's based on this video alone. I didn't choose them then due to all of the possible issues I would have to deal with in my delta machine. You have given me the confidence to order the newer drivers with full confidence. In the end, my setup is going to be MUCH more capable than it would have been if I would've clicked "checkout" earlier this evening. I have you to thank for that. **Thank You**

[@spaceshipdev]

It is sincerely a great contribution but from someone who's just bought a stock Ender 5 brand new to 3d printing it's intimidatingAF. What on earth have I got myself into. I heartily recommend BigTreeTech put this video into a kit so I can just buy it and plug it in :-) Soldering iron you say!? Good heavens.

[@Robothut]

What a great series this has been. And as you keep adding too it as more drivers pop up these will the go too place for stepper driver upgrades. Thank you for sharing.

[@ryanmacewen511]

Boards with removable drivers are the only way to go. Drivers can go smoke, and do. Having removable driver chips not only allows you an upgrade path, it can possibly eliminate replacing the board itself. Truly an excellent video. Nicely done.

[@omahena]

Michael, great guide! BTW you are using BIGTREETECH TMC5160 V1.2 drivers here. BTT claims one of the key module features is that it internally pulls down the CLK pin to ground (and also has better aligned MOSFETs, 6-layer PCB for better heat dissipation, ...). In case you need to pull down the CLK pin on an older version, you can also use a trick - if you melt the CLK pin's solder on top and apply pressure on the pin from the bottom, you can push it all the way up through the board so it looks like one of the SPI pins. Now you can solder a short wire to the GND pin, like you suggest, but on the other end you can have a single pin female Dupont connector that you can attach to the modified CLK pin when you want to ground it, or disconnect the cable when you don't want it grounded. With the SKR Pro 1.1 + TMC5160 V1.1 kit that I received, they delivered the SPI loom anyway as part of the TMC modules - so I could just snip off some wires with a single pin female Dupont for the grounding job. Obviously in case I need to push back the CLK pin at a later point, I just need to heat up the pin again and push it through the PCB to its original location. On my SKR Pro 1.1 in my CR10 Mini I have extreme difficulties calibrating the stepper drivers to make the motors not overheat, not have skipped steps and have sensorless homing working.

[@tomashornacek--balik8068]

Thanks a lot - I was installing 5160 to SKR 1.3 board and your "easy to setup" guide really guided me in right direction!

[@DasGrinch]

Excellent video. I powered my board via USB to get the initial setup going, the problem I ran into is that m122 doesn't work, or doesn't return the right results, if you're not powering it via the 12/24v port. Banged my head on the desk for a while reading old forum posts and things before I found the solution. Everything else was great! Thanks again!

[@iandawkins2182]

Another great learning experience. Love the channel and what you bring to the 3D printer community.

[@alexandrugroza839]

Nice video , i have a mks gen l and tmc 2208 instaled on my ender 3 from your videos , it works perfect , tanks for your videos , i have the 0.76 and 0.9 for e vref and it works great , all day it was on , but the stepper motor and the heated shink were cold , the motors works perfect , they have power . Only my e E steps per mm didn't were god , now i have set them and the cura flow to 60% and the print looks great !

[@alexandrugroza839]

@@weirdoku the steps per mm are almost calibrated , maybe 1/2 mm error , but if i set flow to 100% i get horyble prints, overextrusion , not sticking to the bed , that becouse it extrude too much filament , the bed is perfect calibrated with a piece of paper that is 0.2 mm , that is my first layer height , soo it soulth be only that problem, it extrude too much filament , soo i go down until i get it fine, and now it is arount 60% and the e stets 93, and i printed the extrusion test ok

[@deadspeak2007]

Perfect timing my 2209's and skr board are currently in the air. Thanks for the great content

[@johnmhavlicek]

Would love to see an SKR 1.4 / 1.4 Turbo and TMC 2209 video from you now that those are out. I and a lot of others out there are struggling it seems with getting them to work.

[@danielhertz7266]

Your channel is my first "go-to" channel on 3D printing tech. Very thorough & clear presentation. Awesome awesome work.

[@piotrsiwek]

I'm reprap fan since... well when Mendel90 was a new construction. I can say that until now I have not seen many yt channels as helpful as yours is.

[@TheXerberim]

BIG, BIG Thanks! My Ender 3 Board messed up and without your guides i would have spend weeks to get the printer to work again. Keep on with this great work!

[@real_kwyman]

The amount of detail and effort going into this video is really amazing!

[@miketorri4776]

I enjoy your detailed video's. I use them as good reference. I am using this video to help me configure TMC2209 on ReArm board with Ramps 1.4 driver card. Thanks

[@andreanizzola4645]

Hey, were you successful with mounting the TMC2209 on the ramps 1.4? I haven't found any guide, tutorial or anything that says that they are compatible, how did you do it?

[@Burak0015]

I Got my SKR mini v2.0 motherboard a few month ago and I realised it it was working very loud I tried editing TMC driver settings but that did not work then I see my video and edited my software settings to tmc2209 as you showed and it is now very quite thank you very much. great video

[@tinayoga8844]

The chart in the video shows a value of 20 amps for the Bigtreetech tmc5160. The linked webpage has a maximum current of 5.5A and a maximum (peak) RMS current of 3.0 Amps (~average). Maybe the mosfets have a rating of 20 Amps, but according to the specifications, the module does not. Also the mating connectors used typically have around a 2 Amp rating. So what you plug the modules into may be the limiting factor. I would love to have a 20Amp rated driver, but that is highly unlikely in this form factor.

[@GordonGEICO]

What exactly would you use a 20 amp driver for? Like a positioning module for some super heavy platform? I was window-shopping a NEMA34 CNC kit and even those big monsters only needed about 7-8 amps.

[@hansmaulwurf8027]

I also was confused by this high rating. They definitely have better mosfets which run cooler. But 20A seems a bit way to high. On the watterott shop page it says the 5160 can run without a heatsink. At least on the low currents on a printer this should work. But from my experience with my tmc2208 I would always place a headsink

[@tinayoga8844]

@@GordonGEICO I am not surprised about using a 20 amp part. The maximum current rating of the part is only one factor when it comes to part selection. The 20 amp part will have a low resistance when switched on and that is probably the greater reason for it's selection. The amount of heatsink cooling capacity for these modules is very low. The 20 amp rating on the part may be a dc rating. Turn the part on and hold that current. With stepper use the part is switched on and off rapidly. That causes additional heat compared to switching a pure dc current. Thinking about the designs I have done (I design electronics for a living) and the maximum current rating for semiconductors I have used would typically be three times the current the circuit was expected to switch. And this is about what the TMC5160 seems to be. 20A/5.5A ~3.5 times (maximum rating) But the temperature for the complete module would limit the continuous (RMS) rating.

[@78audioguy]

@@tinayoga8844 actually I believe the 5160 driver itself (maybe with the external mosfets in the circuit) could handle the 20a current it's rated for, when force cooled properly... But installed on this tiny circuit board with a tiny heatsink that doesn't even touch the actual chip (only the mosfets!) as well as having such tiny traces, the cooling capacity and hence forth current rating is greatly reduced. The chip is basically over specced for its application, but that is why it is deemed safe to use without any extra heatsink with low current devices (I'm putting a heatsink on mine anyway, and I'm considering some form of additional physical connection from the heat sink to the heat spreader on the board for the actual chip to be cooled).

[@ster9765]

@@78audioguy Well, the actual chip is not regulating the current, the mosfet is... so it makes perfect sense to place the heatsink on those.

[@Arthzil]

Great vid as always! Definitely picking up SKR 1.3 and TMC2209 :)

[@xaviers.8873]

The froggie I am is so grateful for your guides, because of your work and time you put to your KZbin channel i've been able to do so much things to my printers. From this video i've been able to configure and install SKR1.3 motherboard with TMC5160's on my Alfawise U20 (=Longer3D LK1, a CR10 clone) Oh and because of you i bought an ender 3 a month ago and in few days that printer was already printing amazingly without modding much. Keep up the good work !! Wish i'd still be in australia i'd offer you some beers. I might visit your patreon page ^^

[@hansmaulwurf8027]

On my Ender 3 I changed from TMC2208 to (1) TMC2209. The 2208 were dying in my case (2/5). I guess because of temperature. In stealchop these drivers can get really hot. I bought 4 TMC2209 from Watterott and installed only one on the Y axis. And I installed a Fan in the top lid of my ender 3 back-case. So far no driver died. In spreadcycle my 2208 are causing a whining noise in the motors, when they not move. I guess it is because of the holding current. The 2209 feature CoolStep where they can tune the current with the currentsensors for stallguard. These drivers don't whine with the same settings in spreadcylce. The TMC2209 are really worth the extra. Thanks for this video and how to setup the sensorless homing. I haven't given it a shot because there were a lot of comments on github/marlinfw that this is tricky to setup.

[@patrickvalk]

Could you make an explanation of the encoder that is possible to use on the TMC 5160? Would this make it a closed loop stepper?

[@cyrillonix]

Very useful

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Nice easy to follow guide.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

For those of us who have a good tune in 1.1.9 there's WinMerge. It makes it easier to compare the settings between 1.1.9 and 2.0 that translate across the versions.

[@Fresco272]

Or if you don't need UART you can use them with 1.1.9 and TMC 2208 Standalone setting.

[@PRO3DESIGN]

Great content again. Keep up the nerdly content. It is much appreciated

[@danieldoesmanythings]

Is there a mistake at ~6:20? It looks like you calculate the RMS current and the VREF, then you input the VREF result into settings for current under each driver.

[@DavidHazekamp]

Can anyone help clarify on this? Why do we insert voltage numbers for XYZ_CURRENT in Marlin?

[@inbcow]

I think it’s a mistake. The comments in marlin call for RMS current directly. The value he’s putting in is much closer to peak current ((rms * 2.5)/1.77) than I’m comfortable with.

[@joelevi9823]

i will erase my comment i wrote the same

[@belkocik]

Thank you for this video. Are you planning to make a video about skr mini e3 soon?

[@AkijoLaGrand]

Im looking to upgrade my stepper drivers, so I have been watching many videos comparing them. One thing that is not mentioned much on anyone's videos is regarding the differences between UART, IC2, or SPI interface modes. Is there any benefit using a stepper driver that supports SPI over drivers that are strictly UART. Anyone know how these various interface modes effect 3d printing?

[@Worelock1966]

Great work once again Michael, thanks

[@spikekent]

Hey Michael, Finally got the MKS 1.3 installed on the #Borg, and my 2209 (v1.2) drivers should arrive in a couple of days. I would have had a much tougher time if it hadn't been for your videos. Thank you.

[@thebeststooge]

2209 handling up to 2A tells me it will run cooler than the other older ones at our 300ma-1.2a current 3d printers, right?

[@TeachingTech]

Yes it should.

[@nunopereira6092]

It does. The difference isn't staggering or even relevant for most use cases, but it's there. I have both types of drivers, each running on their own SKR 1.3.

[@thebeststooge]

@Nuno Pereira Would this mean I could remove the fan that my current A4988 has to have?

[@ster9765]

@@thebeststooge I would leave it.

[@LucasHaither]

I'm always pleased for your great work, perfect. Thanks!

[@tcgtherapy6073]

Learned how to uncomment from this video!! NOWHERE online was I able to find an article telling me how to uncomment something !

[@mururoa7024]

A year later, are these steppers still be best available?

[@ajejebrazof8579]

Finally..you are the best! Thanks

[@thisiskeithb]

Glad to help!

[@s8nlx661]

OK so I watched the skr 1.4 (stock and turbo) and was a great setup install config. However you only briefly went into the 2209 setup because you directed us here to the full 2209 setup. But there is a huge difference which makes this tutorial null and void...this is the skr 1.3. And yes at first it seems like they're the same and that would be right...but the 2209's are apparently completely different and really need their own in depth setup for the skr 1.4 models. The jumpers on 1.3 and 1.4 are completely different. Normally it wouldn't matter with most drivers...unless you have the 2209's. The jumpers are all over the place on the 1.3 and although the 2 boards are very similar, they're still a little different. And those little differences seem to be big issues. The 1.3 work great but give you "tmc connection error". So there's clearly something different needed. There's a bunch of setups out there. But not 1 showing all components and configuration for an ender 3 with. Theres alot with 1 or 2 parts but not the whole thing. Skr 1.4 turbo, 2209 (sensorless homing) And tft35 3.5 e3 v3.0 display. All for just ender3. Theres a ton of people out there with this same problem. They get the new stuff but cant seem to get it all running. And the support is infamous for not supporting. So if theres an issue or questions...Goodluck. you're odds of getting support help are slim to none. But somebody really needs to make a full config with setup for the ender3. These tmc connection errors are getting real old

[@hotbrakepads]

Well done. Thank you for posting this information. This is very useful for setting up my new board.

[@EugenioCiullo_V-Blog]

Hi, for me who have the artillery x1, can you tell me what the wiring is for the 2209? your video is missing the fifth stepdriver (motherboard si mks_gen_L v1.0)

[@chad541121]

After setting up my Ender 3 Pro with she skr mini E3 v1.2 and flashing the latest firmware from bigtreetech I have extruder skipping problems. I noticed you recommend vref values to X,Y,Z at 760 and E to 900. Bigtreetech config file currently has them at X,Y,Z at 580 and E at 650? Please advise what settings to use to fix this problem and what the safe and max settings are. The extruder is a creality 42-40. Thanks

[@rikdenbreejen5230]

it is quite weird what he does! he inputs the Voltage in the X_Current and current is AMPS so i think the x_current is supposed to be the previously calculated RMS current in milliamps which will be "x, y, z: 596 and E: 706 as for the Vref you will have to set that value manually on the drivers them selves (tmc2209)

[@joeyend1968]

Thank you so much for these videos!! This is my first foray into 3d printing so modding them is new as well. I don't know if this would be the proper place to ask a question but I'm going to give it a shot... I've updated to the SKR E3 DIP V1.0 with the TMC5160's. Thanks to you it pretty much went flawlessly thanks to this video. The only gremlin I've run into is that the Z Stepper is not very quiet at all. All other axis steppers are SILENT! I've double checked the code to be sure I did enable Stealthchop and it was. So for the heck of it I commented it out and reflashed the card but pretty much the same noise. Tried the Google and have not been able to find anything similar to this issue documented anywhere. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!!

[@gabri6673]

Joey Endriukaitis is it possible to contact you privately? I would like to ask you something since we have the same motherboard. thank you

[@NorthGaSawyer]

Michael, this comment is regarding your slicer tuning video. I'm posting it here in case you don't read comments from old videos. Your retraction test gcode has an error. The 2mm retractions don't start until Z = 12mm, not 7mm as stated in the video. So the first 10mm are at 0mm retraction and at 10mm the 2mm retractions begin and then increase by 2mm every 5mm. Thought you and all others should know this.

[@Deathwarror01]

I'm looking at trying the MKS SGen L with the 2209s. Do you know if this board follows the SKR 1.3 or if it is a mix between the two?

[@czajuniapawulonik3148]

Thanks for another nice tutorial. Just to quickly double check something as I am setting my v1.4 with 2209s on Ender 4. When using 2209s in UART mode do we still need to make any adjustments on the driver using the potentiometer (as we do in standalone mode) prior to setting the current in firmware? Or do we skip that step altogether? Since you don't mention anything about it I don't suppose we have to adjust anything on the driver but wanted to double check in case there is some base value that needs to be set beforehand. Thanks a lot!

[@czajuniapawulonik3148]

Just to answer my own question here in case someone else is also interested. There is no need to adjust anything hardware wise as everything is set in firmware.

[@joanS12]

​@@czajuniapawulonik3148 Thank you for your answer, i was wondering the same. And it's unclear in the video. It must be explained in 1 of the videos of the 37652 video of Teaching tech, but after spending 2 days trying to find the solution on the video, i decided to go through the comment, and i found yours! Thanks for this help.

[@czajuniapawulonik3148]

@@joanS12 Pleasure. Glad I could help.

[@charmed1nz]

I'm not sure how to work out correct vref settings for the 2209. Is it the same formula for the 2208. Love your detailed video's.

[@julienlescurat9005]

3dmodularsystems.com/fr/drivers-moteurs/661-tmc2209-driver-moteur-hyper-silencieux.html Calibration du courant: formule de calcule du courant dans les moteurs: i=Vref Vref = Imot

[@biskero]

would like to see a video for the SKR Pro v1.1 and also the SENSORLESS_PROBING. btw, great video!

[@thebeststooge]

How do you like the pro and all of that circuitry so close together (crammed together) like it is?

[@biskero]

@@thebeststooge doing some tests in the coming days, but it does not look too bad.

[@MrFox_Adventures]

Any luck now that it has been a bit?

[@biskero]

@@MrFox_Adventures no issues with the board for now, testing sensorless homing and probing in the coming days. I attached heatsink to all the mosfets and cpu, both on top and bottom so that cooling is good with fans as I need to print for couple of days. You can check hackebike project here on youtube/facebook

[@biskero]

still trying to make 2209 sensorless homing to work on skr pro!

[@SianaGearz]

There seems to be absolutely no need to bend out or remove the pins (MS, RST and SLP) on an MKS Gen L at least not on my 1.0 unit, once you remove the MS jumpers. MS are only connected to 5V if jumpered - disconnected otherwise; and RST and SLP aren't connected anywhere at all. (correction - SLP and RST are connected to each other; just make sure SLP is unconnected within the step stick) There is also no need to use two pins per serial port, just pick pins suitable to RX, and alias the TX pin to the same in the configuration. Inline resistor should be used just in case. 4 wires instead of 8. I'd even have an urge to just hardwire it on the back of the PCB to the corresponding RST pins. Besides pins 63, 64, 65 and 66 on AUX2 also pin 11 from the servo connector is usable for RX, making it possible to use all 5 axis with firmware control.

[@TheMindverse]

I'm using an Ender 3 + SKR 1.3 + TMC2209 in UART mode. I keep getting "Unknown command" when I try an M122. I'm *not* on USB power, but am using 24v. M119 worked so I know communications are good. Great videos, they've enabled me to try things I never would have on my own!

[@TheMindverse]

Also, this may be related and help anyone answer. I'm using Big-TreeTech TMC2209 v1.2 drivers, and the SKR 1.3. Is there anything I need to solder, bend, or cut on these drivers to enable UART???

[@goyetus]

Why the 2.0 version from Banggood need to be soldered between pins? Is not Uart Ready for use in a skr 1.3? Im trying to find out what version to purchase (1.1 from bigtreech or 2.0 Fysetec). regards @teaching tech !!!

[@ster9765]

Version 3 from BTT/BIQU is UART ready.

[@garybarbourii8274]

If the 2208 and 2209 don't support SPI, and Marlin does not support UART, then how are you using them?

[@fabianzambrano7061]

I would love to hear the sound of that drivers, please make a video of sound comparison between this drivers.

[@thebeststooge]

2208 and 2209 sound the same and are damn near silent. You will hear the fans instead of the drivers AND, best of all, the pattern you can see in the light (no Salmon skin though that is gone too) if you hold the object just right is gone with them.

[@aggronn]

Love the series! Nice content like usual, just bought the 2208 so maybe in the future i will take the 2209

[@maxcelosdev]

Works nicely on a Tevo Tarantula Pro with TCM2209v1.2 and MKS Gen L1.0. Just had to invert X and Y home direction

[@spikekent]

Hey Michael, another great video that I have been eagerly waiting for. I'm planning to install the SKR 1.3 with 2209 drivers on the Borg. Not sure when yet as I have recently started a new job. Anyway, since the Borg has dual Z motors, can you do a video on setting up Marlin 2.0 for that? I understand that the E1 driver port will be used for the second Z driver and motor?

[@SteinerSE]

I'm also curious about dual Z, is it better to use 2 steppers or just a splitter for both motors from one? (SKR Pro have 2 z connectors connected to one stepper)

[@maulikpatel5311]

Hi, I tried this with MKS TMC2209 V2.0 driver with MKS GEN L 1.0 board(for Tevo Tarantula) and this works super silent. I only updated X and Y axis as I think Z and E do not make much noise while printing. The only change which I did for MKS TMC2209 is I saw on one other video like they solder R8 and UART pin together. Rest all I followed your steps and it works simply well. Though I need to disabled this "MONITOR_DRIVER_STATUS", as with latest release of marlin they are generating an error if this macro is being used with software serial. But in short, many thanks for this video, it really helped me on following end to end steps from software and hardware perspective.

[@nehrox2567]

Hello there, I just got the TMC2209 v2.0 for my Gen L v1.0 as well. Do you happen to still have the video you mention about soldering R8 and UART together? Just want to make sure I don't do anything wrong. Thanks!

[@maulikpatel5311]

@@nehrox2567 Just saw your comment. Here is the video in case anyone needs this in future. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYTLlHmBjdeJftE&lc=Ugx9N2oAOx7GBFb0Lqx4AaABAg.9J_pLsJKYF89K0Vqrgz2ME

[@vojtator]

Hey Michael, is it possible to share config files? I can't find mistake in my config and want to compare it.

[@Duckers_McQuack]

Could you make a video how to calibrate junction deviation? :)

[@user-on2je4vc9b]

I have the TMC 2209 drivers for the Manta M8P boards. I am having issues with the Manta Series which has lead me to the Duet 3 HC6 board which has TCM5160 drivers. The SLI can control micro stepping: micro steps: 128 rotation distance: 40 full steps per rotation: 200 This will greatly improve the printer resolution. They also run cooler.

[@tilmaen]

I love your guides to 3d printing! Your configuration tool is an absolute gem! I recently upgraded my sapphire pro to 2209ers. (from 2208). When using them in UART thy skip steps like crazy :-(. Motor current is on the high end (850)

[@zeealpal]

The timing is perfect! I just came to your channel to check the stepper direction settings as I'm setting up my SKR 1.3 with 2209's and I see this instead!

[@johncraven3560]

Great video! But i would like to add one comment on bench testing a new board/firmware. I just picked up a SKR E3 DIP and 5160 drivers. I followed your instructions. But i couldn't get the M122 test to work. Wasted a lot of time. I was only using USB power to the board. Turns out E3DIP/5160 needs 24V input connected to return proper M122 test response. Maybe its obvious to advanced users, but it wasn't to a noob like me. Cost me a lot of time going around in circles, thinking drivers were bad or i missed something in the firmware.

[@sasoyu8922]

I followed your guide for tmc2209, but i am using klipper (It needs only one wire for Uart communication). Anyway i have cut the 2 pins but i still have issues with the communication. It says unable to read stepper register

[@markvreeken]

Great stuff mate I used the config file you provided in one of your other videos changed the steppers from A4988's to 2209's. One thing of note was that Atom would not successfully compile the file until I placed the files in the PlatformIO projects folder. It wasn't happy with it in a folder of my own choosing. It couldn't find the files even though they were there. Copy and paste and success. Not sure why but maybe this will help some one else who may be stuck on compiling

[@Dan-lz1ix]

I've got the SKR 1.3 and TMC2209 drivers. My driver registers are all showing 0xC0:0C:00:00. I'm trying to do this in VS Code, but I don't know how to add in the Driver Library, so I'm guessing this is causing the issue. Also, Sensorless Homing isn't working for me, and I'm hoping this is also due to not having the Driver Library added. How do I do this, or should I use the Arduino Editor as you did?

[@StevePrior]

You mentioned a previous video on setting up the 2209 in standalone mode, but I can't find it - can you provide a link? I'm looking to upgrade the TMC2100's on my MKS Gen L (stock Sidewinder X1 board) with 2209's as simply as possible. Thanks.

[@escknx]

Love your tutorials. Make possible for average Joe to fine tune 3d printers in their current state. Hope you can get your hands on Anycubic Predator, with that brilliant extruder placement. I'm trying to upgrade mine with Bond BMG + e3d v6 + SKR PRO 1.1 TCM5160+ esp01s

[@michaelallbright9736]

I bought an SKR v1.3 after watching your video and was amazed to find 2-3V of ripple! on the 5V switching power supply even though the 24V input had only 120mV of ripple going in. They do seem to have put some thought into the filter network on the 3.3V supply (not that it helps much with right around 1V of ripple), but there's no such network on the 5V supply. Just curious if this is typical, or if my board is just defective--have you tried putting an oscilloscope on yours?

[@joevalaska1000]

While browsing AliExpress for the TMC2209 drivers I saw that there is both a v1.1 and v2.0. I am not able to find a clear comparison of the two. Is there any value in getting the v2.0? Your amazing and I am always learning from videos. Thank you so much.

[@Turbo7968]

Ok, I'm a noobie trying to learn, but Micheal mentioned the v1.1. From what I see v2.0 is missing two pins whereas v1.1 has them. Other then that , that's as much as I know.

[@Joe_Galaska]

@@Turbo7968 Thanks for your reply. I have sets of each on order. When they arrive i will try to find out more about the differences. I am not sure of the purpose of extra pins but will continue to see what I can learn.

[@derrickolson9611]

Do you happen to have the file made for the SKR and 2209 with BL touch? The file I got from your other BL touch and SKR wouldn't build(I tried both with the basic drivers and updating the drivers)

[@gsuresh2u]

Hi, it's great info, I am using Nema23 motors with 4A/phase, and I am using TMC5160 v1. 2, these drivers are heating so much, using 4 motors for Z axis, what will be the correct current settings in Marlin for TMC5160 v1. 2 driver and 4A motor?

[@samsong2652]

thank you is working you are a real hero

[@jeandrecoetzer9062]

I followed your video using a SKR1.3 board with TMC2209 driver. My settings are all the same but i just get a bad response from the printer on all stepper drivers when running the M122 command. Do you have any advice on why i do not get a response from the stepper drivers?

[@originaltrilogy1]

I have the same problem, did you sort it out?

[@imakebidyo22]

Hello Michael , May I ask if for the ‘Bigtreetech v1.2 , all the jumper should be taken out too? To put the ‘TMC2009? Many thanks !! Cheers !!

[@gionibegood6950]

hi, i want to make an exoskeleton for my mother after a stroke. I've already made the whole mechanical structure and now i am on electric. these boards fits perfect to my project (6axis for hips, knees and ankles) can you recommend me one of them? i intend to read the angles for the segments of the legs with BNO055 and after a "learning mode" of the microcontroler using a friend with same dimension as my mom, the exoskeleton to follow those angles. TMC5160 as drivers but which mainboard?

[@richardboyce4921]

Hi Michael, your tutorials are so concise and easy, thank you for your hard work

[@lauckstreet]

I've installed the SKR V1.3 in my Ender 5 and have run into a problem that I hope you can help me with. When I plug in the any of the end stops, the board won't boot. The axis move (haven't tested E0 yet) but the end stops cause the board to not boot. Any idea why?

[@JessicaRyan7of9]

Hello I am wondering if you can help me with a tiny problem. In atom I am trying to upload marlin 2.0 bugfix to the SKR 1.3 board. Using the environment lpc1768 and it keeps failing. My laptop is using Windows 10 I am just wondering what operating system you are using and if you have experienced this same issue. Any help I could get with this issue would be very much appreciated. Up it was the thing that I have noticed in the sketch there is every other board set up when you scroll down in configuration h but there's nothing for the SKR V 1.3.

[@thedude5-6]

I know this is a old video but it was new when I took a break from printing I'm getting my printer going again and I'm upgrading to use the new stepper drivers available now. The mks gen L has a new version that handles UART without jumpers and mks has a 2209 Bob too I get the gist but and it seems 8 but control is going to the wayside but maybe you could revisit this

[@bruceyoung1343]

Mike. Which would you go with. TMC2209 or TMC5160 for Ender 3 Pro and a btt v1.4 TURBO ? In near future I’ll be getting Ender Extender just not sure if increasing to 300x300 or the 400 x 400. But in either one I’m thinking on having twin Z motors?

[@hotasfireph]

Hi, I bought a Ender 3 Board, but I received a Creality V4.2.7. Now it's not working on my Ender 3 Pro. Do you know what firmware should I install?

[@phazedude]

According to all data sheets the 2209 supports native 256 microsteps... in the video i could see that you are leaving it as set to 16... what do you think about changing it to higher number or just set it to max 256 ?

[@ZTNET]

Once again thanks for the info, I just have a question since a just found in my country 2130 or 2208 as I like the idea of sensorless homing im looking at the 2130, im planing to do this in a CR10S the original board finally die after thousand of hrs of printing, I guess 1.2A its more than enough for the CR mine is already silent so I guess stealthchop1 will be an improvement anyway vs the meltzy, im an octoprint addict, so between 2208 and 2130 i guess its ok if I go for 2130.

[@2iinfinite]

I know this may be outdated, but would a einsy rambo board found in prusa printers be considered as having integrated stepper drivers

[@sycoaniliz]

Setting the voltage that will cause usage over those values, up to 1.414x higher in the version of Marlin I'm on, 1074.64 and 1272.6 respectively. This can and most likely will fry peoples' stepper motors over time.

[@originaltrilogy1]

With the new drivers allowing sensorless homing, would it be in theory possible to have sensorless bed levelling as well? Where you have the nozzle touch the bed instead of a sensor for probing, and then doing a mesh level the same way?

[@kylemarshall3042]

I don't quite follow the logic behind the VREF calculation @ 6m15s - you calculate a voltage but then enter it into Marlin as mA? Can someone explain where the numbers in this equation come from?

[@xeon_one]

I want to THANK YOU for all the hard work you do for all of us. Now I have a major problem my problem is I can't get it to scale to the right height.All the sudden it starts scaling lower than what it is. I didn't change anything I tried cura 4.1,4.0, 3 .6 version. I calibrated my estep's now it prints a lot little better now but I still getting the scaling problem still small! My setup is ender 3 with skr 1.3 w/ 2208 v3 . Can you please help me.

[@JustKyzuuh]

Thanks for the great guide! I'm hoping for a little guidance. I installed the skr mainboard and the tmc5160 on my CR10s clone and the extruder is dead silent but all other axis are normal volume. Adjusting the current does nothing and all drivers are functioning properly otherwise. No overheating, no missing steps, stealthchop mode is enable and I put the hybrid threshold very high to ensure the motors were in stealthchop mode. Any advice? I'm thinking that it may be the fact that I'm running a 12v power supply.

[@mariogayoso]

Hey Mike. For the lowrider CNC and tmc 5160, do I need to solder the cable connecting pins from corner "top" to the other side?

[@bootloopgaming8642]

All was well, but i had to disable the hybrid line otherwise it would make this racket as if skipping steps during auto homing. TMC2209 and MKS GEN L v1.0. Marlin 2.1.x on a Tevo Tornado and stock motors.

[@pikodesigning]

Is it same on MKS gen L V2? The board seems to be a bit different. It already has jumpers for uart mode but for the sensorless homing there are some jumpers looks like those on SKR v1.3. I could not find any information for those jumpers but they have same name. Thanks for the tutorial anyway, it help out a lot!

[@JamesGames.]

Looking for clarification. If I am using UART, should use the potentiometer to trim to the voltage AND set something in the firmware, or just set the firmware?

[@armochim]

Hello, I´d like to know if I can build a lowrider 2 and use a MKS gen l instead a SKR 1.3. I watch your videos about lowrider2 built but you (and github) does not use MKS Gen l.

[@fer662]

Suggestion: since you're doing a bunch of videos where you configure marlin differently for each driver, why don't you fork and leave the modifications somewhere instead of downloading a zip? That way, the less technologically inclined can download a zip from your fork with the changes in there

[@ster9765]

the fact that your asking this is a very good reason you don't want that. Learn.

[@fer662]

@@ster9765 I'm not asking for me :)

[@ManiekJG21]

The steps used for SPI for TMC5160 can also be used directly on TMC2130 v1.2 SPI drivers for SKR 1.3 board?

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Michael do you know first what driver the S42C chip unit uses and can it do sensorless homing? I am using 2 one on each axis X and Y. I am thinking probably not but this is an upgrade to the S42B version. I just got the BTT Octopus Pro board. I know it is overkill.

[@diygizmos1837]

do you have any experience with skr pro board? i try to connect tmc5160 to skr pro but no luck. tried everything.

[@rodredman4122]

Hi Michael, I was wondering if you or anyone could give me a clue on setting up the Vref on my TMC2209 V2.1's for my Ender 5? I cannot find any documentation on either the TMC2209 v2.1's, or the Ender 5 motors which are NOT the same as the Ender 3 motors. The I-rms on these drivers is higher than those on the 2208's for which there is a plethora of information. I watched your video on the Ender 3 with the 2208's, but I do not understand where you came up with the 1.41 numerator for the calculation unless it was derived from the I-ms of the 2208's which is not the same as the 2209's. Please help if you have the time. Thanks