BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 Mainboard - Full Install Part 1 - 2209 Drivers - Chris's Basement

[@gg-gn3re]

It's sad to see professional teachers and then see someone like Chris & how much better he does at displaying and relaying information. I wish companies would directly pay people like you.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@torinschraven4957]

@@ChrisRiley Chris, if I'm using this with a cyclops extruder and hot end, how would I set up the filament run-out sensor for the two different filaments but only one extruder? because it says define the number of run-out sensors, one per extruder, but there is only one. Would I just say there is two extruders as to have two run out sensors?

[@MostlyInteresting]

wink wink....I know who that barb was aimed at. :)

[@techdiyer5290]

i think that its a little easier to explain things well and quickly with editing power/ when you actually have the knowledge and you know how to teach... Chris u did a great job!

[@bernonic]

Even after 2 years this still a good guide to understanding Marlin setup - current rev of Marlin has functions at different places but the explanations still stand - thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, thanks for the comment, glad it's still helpful.

[@jonmarler]

I am working on setting up the SKR 1.4 Turbo on what started as an Anet A8 printer and is now just a frankenprinter. Thank you for your simple and easy to understand description of how to configure the jumpers. This helped me out tremendously. I read the PDF documentation, but with all the model and part numbers flying about, I wasn't exactly sure how to set it all up. I'm confident I can get this setup now. Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help!

[@machielvanderschoot5180]

After watching several video's on your channel, it suddenly hit me. Your voice is calming. It's the voice of "I got your back bro, everything is going to be allright!"

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, well that is great! I was hoping that is what I was conveying. I am always here to help!

[@machielvanderschoot5180]

@@ChrisRiley Half an hour ago I had the maiden voyage of the SKR1.4 and it worked like a charm. So you definitely helped me. And a lot of others I assume. Thank you!

[@garyblake4296]

My 1.4 turbo board landed today and as ever this is the first place I look for a comprehensive easy to understand tutorial. Good to see the subscriber numbers climbing.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your support!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I ordered an SKR 1.4 without knowing what I was getting myself into. Way more than I signed up for, but glad I'm learning to do it. I'll be watching this video several times.

[@ChrisRiley]

Good luck with your project!

[@tomdevine3633]

Chris, perfect timing! I received my SKR v1.4 and TMC2209s last night! Got everything going by going through this video, your TMC2209 video, your SKR 1.3 video, and your VSCode video! and a little bit of googling... BLTouch is working, sensorless homing on X/Y, hotend fan controlled by E1 etc!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome!

[@Solitaire1]

Well, that was timely. I'm just installing an skr v1.4 turbo in my Ender 5 right now. There were a couple of things that I was unsure of but this video helped clear them up. Please don't be too long in releasing part 2!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful, it will be out very soon.

[@nachiketmhatre7411]

I just love how Chris has replied to absolutely every comment in here. And that attitude shows in the thoroughness of the guide as well. The advice on crimping and electrical safety is on point, and usually missing from most other channels in this space. Keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Wow! Thank you

[@JeanPierreLereboullet]

Thank you Chris ! Great Tutorials ! I don't like cutting pins and I didn't cut any pins on my five TMC2209 used with a SKR1.4 Turbo: 1) I just commented the two lines //E0_DIAG_PIN and //E1_DIAG_PIN (in pins_BTT_SKR_V1.4.h file), and use two filament sensors. 2) As I use a BLtouch, I changed - in the same file - Z_MIN_PIN to P0_10 and Z_STOP_PIN to P0_10 (without changing the Z_DIAG_PIN from P1_27).

[@emaayan]

yea but then you have to remember not to upgrade that as well, i hate changing any other file then the config and adv ones, as for the bltouch, there's an entire issue going on about that, i'm using mine WITH z endstop.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I hate cutting the pins too, very nice work around. I am going to tackle the BLtouch soon as well.

[@t0talbozA]

I didn't change/cut anything and it still works, don't know why. I am running stallguard on X and Y , Bltouch is connected to Z endstop header( didn't want to go to the computer to build again so I tried it..)

[@mironfs1]

@@ChrisRiley you can buy pin extenders, cut those and plase them between board anc driver

[@ChrisRiley]

@@mironfs1 Great idea.

[@jimfishify]

To those few people that gave Chris a thumbs down, there are two steps I can offer you. 1. squeeze your rubber ducky a couple times it will make you feel better. 2. Watch the film again, because Chris is very thorough and has done an amazing job... Thanks for the education on the BTT

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, thanks! They just need more duckys.

[@adamshay1592]

So far the most informative and easy to follow video I have found to date. I have this board (turbo) I have been trying to get running with the tft35 v3.0 I feel this has gotten me the closest. got bummed out when i found out the video just went out, looking forward to a sequel. been a tough learning curve for first dip into coding.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Adam, the second part will be out soon.

[@brannonmcevers1854]

Thanks for all your in depth Kipper videos. Nobody else does Kipper better! Much appreciated Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you so much for the $10! You are very welcome, I'm glad the videos help!

[@markferrick10]

Thanks Chris, great video as usual. At 13:34 NEVER solder wire and place it in a screw clamp terminal. Ferules ARE the best choice. Have to watch the pin assignment part a few time to absorb what you are saying.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mark, during the pins file part I was starting to confuse myself.

[@TrevFD3]

Thank you, thank you and thank you. This is by far the clearest and most in depth walkthrough of everything needed. Your teaching style and knowledge is excellent and have turned a Marlin newbie into a Marlin newbie 2.0. Just what I needed to get this up and running with an Anycubic Mega X which has been nothing but trouble. I finally understand how Marlin, compiling and the inner workings of my printers which will help so much with my other machines. The only difficulty I am having is with the dual z motors and the two strings endstops which are on the machine. I'm getting away with just using one z endswitch and manually syncing each side. This is something I'll work on in the future. Thanks again and keep up your awesome work on your channel

[@ChrisRiley]

Next, Marlin guru! Thanks for watching

[@DavidTLutz]

Excellent video. You do a great job anticipating what some lesser experienced viewers (myself) might not know to fully understand what you are describing. 👍👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you very much!

[@anthonyrich1592]

I love this sort of video. Great job, Chris! Whenever I get a new board I use a red Sharpie marker to draw indicator dots on each of the positive screw terminals. Saves a lot of grief when you're trying to hook all the wires up in limited space inside a printer and can't see the silkscreen.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! That is a great idea, I never seem to just do this easy stuff first, I always wait and struggle later. Someday I will learn my lesson. :)

[@oriongaby]

@@ChrisRiley I suggest a silver Sharpie since the terminal blocks and board are both black, non-metallic Sharpies are very hard to see on a black surface.

[@lukemason2232]

I painted the +ve terminals red. A sharpie seems much easier

[@cybernetix86]

At around 31:30 my brain started to melt with all the pins infos. However, your video are amongst the best for explaining those kind of things. Great job Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@meltonpieman959]

Great Chris. Wish you had made this a month ago ..... it would have saved me many headaches! Even so, your explanations make me understand more of what I did by trial and error. David

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey David, sorry it wasn't sooner, but thanks for watching anyway. :)

[@MrWaalkman]

On one hand, it's great to see that the more affordable boards are stepping up their game and coming out with some nice hardware. On the other hand, having to go to this level of difficulty setting up the board for Marlin is, well, daunting. I went through this process for my FLSun, which was mandatory since the firmware as provided by FLSun did not work. More correctly, the SD card that came with the board was faulty, and/or wasn't loaded properly at the factory. FLSun support consisted of email support, which wasn't much help at all, so I took a config file out of the Marlin source that resembled my machine (the CL-260 IIRC) and created my own firmware. It took forever, but I got things working fairly well, and then two things happened. My Z endstop quit working on the board (something that had also happened to other FLSun owners), and Marlin rolled out a new version and broke many of my settings for my board. Enter the Maestro board. But for someone on a tight budget, this board really does look nice. And it is a whole lot cheaper than a Duet. And your knowledge of the Marlin firmware is encyclopedic, very impressive!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! I know it's still kind of a pain, but Marlin has some stuff in the works that should make things easier.

[@kevinm3751]

Awesome, my 1.4 turbo arrives Thursday and will be putting it in my Ender 3 pro so these videos are timely as usual Chris, U ROCK!

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Good luck with the build.

[@kevinm3751]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, yea chomping at the bit and watching my alerts for your next video. I am stalled right now at the end of your first one as I dont want to go further until i get Marlin setup right. I tried to use Teaching Techs video on this same topic but after two attempts to follow his it just crashed with error when I uploaded the firmware and so far you have already touched on things he never even mentioned which I find odd. I think I backed the wrong horse as I signed up for his Patreon, going to change that this weekend and give YOU that money instead...;) Here I set patiently waiting for part 2...;)

[@ChrisRiley]

@@kevinm3751 Thanks Kevin, I am finishing up editing now. Very soon!

[@mikestrong82]

guides like this are hard to find anymore. keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, will do!

[@saschacutic6728]

Chris, almost every second of your two videos is full of valueable information. I keep constantly coming for reference! Thanks a lot

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, that is great to hear.

[@BigDaddysChannel]

I have been struggling for the past 3 days trying to get Marlin configured correctly, I just finally got it to work last night. I am running a coreXY machine and Next I want to figure out how to run 2 stepper drivers to run the 2 Motors. The reason why I want to run it this way is because Marlin has an option to level the bed from side to side (Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN). My setup is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm.

[@ChrisRiley]

Cool, yep, that is pretty easy, in configuration_adv.h, there is an option already setup for that. You just uncomment it and it will use your E1 driver for the second Z by default.

[@dalecooper7218]

These SKR 1.4 vids helped me so much. I just replaced my GT2560 with BTT stuff. The connectors on the board are JST-XH. I tried duponts on the Z-Stop. I found them too sloppy, or 'my dupont' connections were too sloppy, and kept falling off the pins.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great, yeah, the duponts aren't a great long term solusion.

[@PJC3DP]

Great video, I recently forced a SKR V1.4 Turbo into my CR-10S Pro. I am using Vanilla Marlin 2.0.5. After a bit of googling I managed to get the BL touch probe port enabled. I am really happy with sensor less homing and the access I have to adjust firmware settings through my TFT35 V3.0 duel mode screen.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Glad it's working for you.

[@dongletreehenley9744]

Hey Chris great you got round to doing this setup on the skr 1.4/turbo..I smoked about 3 of the 1.4...lol..I also had the tmc2209 and although I got things to work like stalgard..I could not get the bltouch to work..and now I see why..I think.. like you pointed out you need to clip the pin on the z ..this was never really made clear in the documention..I hope you will maybe cover the setup of the bltouch ,using the dedicated pins on the board..it seems a lot of people could not get it to work and just tried using the z min end stop pin...again great work Chris..so glade your on this!!..I now will order myself a new skr turbo and try again!.

[@Firstleaker]

Dongletree henley - Hello Dongletree, yeah there is some confusion about the BLTouch wiring. Tripods Garage has a video that was released last week using the dedicated pins on the Skr 1.4 Turbo. Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful, I do intend to go over the bltouch setup as well.

[@ador75]

Thank you Chris. Great timing! My SKR 1.4 with 2209s is its way to me. Looking forward to going back to your video to help me set it up.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great! Good luck with your build!

[@Flat4BRM]

Good stuff here, Chris. My BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo w/ TMC2209's are on their way. I'm installing it in an older Omni3D Architect 1.1 that utilizes optical endstops. Would you recommend using sensorless homing, or use the existing endstops? Also, the printer came with an RAMPS 1.4 board....any further tips on transferring connections from the old RAMPS board to this new one (ie: hotend fans, cooling fans, etc.)?

[@ChrisRiley]

I would probably start with the endstops to just confirm everything is working before moving to sensorless homing, it can be flaky. RAMPS you probably had dupont connectors, you will have JST on the SKR, you can either remove the plug shrouds from the board or make an adapter.

[@Robothut]

Fantastic job Chris. So much detailed information on these new boards and proper set up. Thank you for sharing with us all.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching John! I watched your Robothut walk-through the other day, really awesome place. I want to come and take the tour.

[@johnlytle6633]

Hi Chris, Thanks for another great lesson. I am retrofitting a Maker Gear printer that has a 24v power supply. I haven't been able to find out what the DC IN is supposed to be. Would you please let me know what input voltage is recommended? Never mind, I found the input power specs for the SKR 1.4, 12-24 VDC.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yep, 12 or 24v work just fine.

[@georgeventurini1301]

Hello Chris. Your videos are very helpful. THANK YOU. However to anyone considering this board...DON'T... I have had three fail. They work great until they don't. Additionally don't expect any customer service from BTT. I have been waiting for over two years for a response to an email. If it wasn't for guys like Chris there would be no help at all. Thanks again Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Sorry to hear that, thanks for the heads up.

[@demonprincess5634]

i just got the board and i been pulling out my hair, so far your video is helping...

[@ChrisRiley]

That's great! Good luck

[@bobkinloch]

Have just done everything in part 1 ,, really great , informative and spot on. I cant wait for part 2 and get my printer going !!! Keep up the good work Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Bob! Part 2 coming very soon.

[@The_Mimewar]

I’m about to get one of these to replace my stock Anet board. We use Marlin, and I really wanted to know if this ran Marlin, and how hard it was to setup Marlin. Thanks for these videos. I think I can run Marlin with your help!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, yes, this should get you most of the way there for your ANET.

[@Waltkat]

Good timing. I need a new controller for my Ender 3 since the crappy SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board I had only lasted a couple of months. I hope this one lasts longer. At least if one of the stepper drivers dies I won't have to replace the whole board.

[@ChrisRiley]

Let me know how it goes, I am curious what kind of case mods people are doing.

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

Hopefully this video actually gets this going I got the lcd and the turbo board for my ender 3 and been having lot trouble with the firmware

[@bruceyoung1343]

Jabber. That is what’s holding me back. I don’t want to upgrade my Ender3 pro until I fully understand how to make firmware tweaks

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

@@bruceyoung1343 yea I followed his video and it wouldn't compile at the end idk where I went wrong I need to set my homing settings but also my bed won't heat .keeps giving me error ...idk part my problem could also be that lcd screen idk

[@ChrisRiley]

If it won't compile you can send me the errors and I can point you in the right direction.

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

@@ChrisRiley I keep getting unknown motherboard value in configuration.h

[@EngineeringTechnikcom]

good guide. thanks. i know nothing about this topic. this will help a lot. my board just arrrived today. Is it possible to swap the 2x Z-axis drivers so i can have dual x-axis drivers instead?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure, it's in configuration_adv.h //#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS #if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS) #define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR true // Set 'true' if X motors should rotate in opposite directions //#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS #if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS) #define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_ #define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0 #endif #endif

[@jonathanjansen5577]

I'm thinking about ordering the SKR v1.4 and TMC2209's for my CR10s to replace the stock board but i'm having a hard time finding much about using the 2209's on the extruder. I know that the 2208's had some problems with linear advance, but I cant find much about the 2209's. To play it safe, I might purchase an LV8729 for the extruder but i'm not sure if it's really necessary. Im also new to upgrading the printer boards and this seems like a lot but i like to tinker and im sure i could stumble my way through it, especially given all the videos regarding setting it up like the one you have here.

[@ChrisRiley]

You should be all set using a 2209 on the extruder, I run them on a couple of printers now, no issues seen with linear advance.

[@jonathanjansen5577]

Chris Riley Awesome! Im definitely going to go for the 2209’s then. I really appreciate you going through all your comments and replying to each and every one! It’s not something you see often from content creators. Keep up the awesome work!

[@aaronnava6688]

Hi Chris, very informative videos, and super cool step-by-step stuff, I do have one question, I did all the upgrade for it, but it doesn’t show to print from my SD card in any of the menus, did I miss something in the firmware? Or I cannot print for the sad card, sorry I am new at this.. thanks for any recommendations, thank, keep it up, good work!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! You probably just missed the option. Look for this. #define SDSUPPORT

[@aaronnava6688]

Chris Riley , hope your going well, yea, I tried that and it didn’t work, I am going to do the whole process all over again and hopefully it works, I’ll keep you posted! Thanks for all your help and the quick reply,

[@andreasmohr7835]

Hi Chris Thank you so much for your awesome videos, they help me so much! I have one question though: What do I do if I have clipped off a pin on my TMC2130 stepper driver (diag pins or the pins for the SPI connection) and now want to use these on an SKR 1.4? I had to clip them off because I used them previously on a RAMPS but now I'd like to use them on my new board, if possible without soldering new pins to the bottom of the drivers. Is it possible to do some wiring as it is done on the ramps and what do I have to do with the jumpers then?

[@ChrisRiley]

On a 1.4 check this out. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4PIN.pdf You can use the CLS pins below the driver with some jumper to the top of the driver. Also the diag pin you can run it over to the min endstop pin for sensorless homing.

[@thewalabee1414]

This video is great...at showing me how much I have to learn still. Thanks Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@Willi_Webels]

Hi Chris, I´ve bought an new SKR 1.5 Turbo. Is this the same programming like the SLR 1.4 or SKR 1.4 Turbo Board? You explain the Board´s very good :-) Thank you for this Video. It´s very usefull for me. I´ve to wait for my SKR 1.5 Turbo to arrive..

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

Didn't even know was a 1.5 or I would have ordered that lol

[@ChrisRiley]

I have never seen a 1.5, do you have a link?

[@mikethorne1390]

Hey Chris, I talked to you about the tmc2209 issue and I finally resolved it. The line in the firmware in conf_adv.h (software enable) mine was defined for this but even though it's for Uart mode, the drivers have dedicated pins and this should be uncommented. It was quite vexing but I got there with some help from the GitHub forum. Thanks for your help.

[@ChrisRiley]

I am glad you found it, thanks for the update.

[@RagaiMeena]

Chris, what a wonderful Tutorial. Thank you for this. My question: is there a way to leave and activate the stock endstops , not use sensorless homin g, without having to cut off the diag pin? Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Unfortunately not that I know of. I know it's a bummer to clip the pins. You could get around it with some tricky edits in the pins file.

[@mopesca]

I did bend mine slightly outwards, and made sure nothing is touching

[@vinceulisky9368]

good day chris, these videos are great. thanks so much for making them. i have a couple of questions though regarding the firmware install. im using the BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo for a MPCNC Lowrider, and im running into errors that are not adding up. do i need an extruder called out in the firmware even though im not using it? and if so, what are the temps supposed to be? because i dont physically have them. is there a way to "fool" the firmware? thanks again for the videos. keep up the great work.

[@ChrisRiley]

So I think there is a way to run without an extruder, but I can't remember how to do that. The easiest way to is tell it to use a dummy thermistor, change this to 998, this will make it read 25c all the time. #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 998

[@f16pilotjumper]

Have an old MK2S that needs some love, looking forward to Part 2

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! It will be out soon!

[@scubacrazy123]

Absolutely love your videos, you are one of the best teachers on KZbin when it comes to this type of thing. I have taken delivery of the SKR 1.4 board, but also a BLTouch. Any idea when you might have a vid on installing BLTouch with this board. I also have a TFT35 screen to add to the mix too, so maybe a vid on that combo would be very much appreciated? LOL Thanks again for all of your help though, you have some serious talent, and you have my gratitude sir.

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Gary, thanks for watching, I am hoping to get the bltouch stuff done next week.

[@crateer]

I got my SKR 1.4 Turbo 3 days ago, first thing I managed to do was to smoke the 10A Fuse I then stole a spare one from my car and it worked xD I also only bent the Pins on my 2209s, since I don't want to remove anything

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, nice! Yeah, I hate snipping those pins.

[@DerrickPerrin]

Hacking at making my own prenter. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this series. You rock.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching. Good luck with your project!

[@giusn]

I was about to buy the SKR, but I got instead the MKS SGEN L + 5x TMC2209 for €22. There's really no excuse anymore not to go 32bit + Trinamic now. A Ramps board + Arduino Mega + Allegro drivers costs more.

[@ChrisRiley]

You are 100% correct, I think 32 is here to stay. ;)

[@lundebc]

This is a great video, but where can I find those connectors you used for the power wiring? I am not using the right search term I guess?

[@ChrisRiley]

These are them. www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Tool-Kit-0-08-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07K17VDF2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ferrels+wire&qid=1594264654&sr=8-2

[@fpvm4k3r]

#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM is a feature I enable on my machines, very handy so you can turn off soft endstops in the Motion menu. Good for doing maintenance or setting your Z offset without having access to a terminal. I have an SKR 1.4 turbo I'm going to install on my Taz 5 as a part oi a little wiring revamp as well.. been having some issues lately with the X stepper motor wires getting hot, banging my head against the wall troubleshooting filament constantly grinding on my aero, really hot stepper drivers as well as other odd motor behavior.... figured its time for an upgrade anyway. thanks for the vid!

[@ChrisRiley]

Great point James, thanks for the comment, good luck with your build!

[@pengonator59]

@Chrid Riley Hi Chris, thanks for your great videos. Now i've to decide for the Creality Silentboard 1.1.5 or the SKR mini E3 for my two Ender 5's. I run all Software under Linux (FreeCAD, Cura and PlatformIO) and it works great. Which of the two Boards you would recommend for my Ender 5's?

[@ChrisRiley]

I like the SKR boards because they have a better processor, you can use 2209's and they are cheaper.

[@MrPaulMadson]

I just found out that you can use both sensorless homing and mechanical switches as the same time. Sensorless homing uses high signal for stall detection, so if you wire your endstop accordingly, (that is using pulling high when triggered) you can use them both. There is a github discussion where it is stated, that when the driver is pulling to 0 and the endstop is pulling to hight there is still enough tolarence for the driver (the drivers pullup current is 40u, and the safe minimum for the pin is 2mA -quoted from the discussion)

[@ChrisRiley]

👍🙂

[@flopesff]

Chris.... excellent tutorial but I have a question.... How BTT DCDC mode v1.0 work? What do I use for?

[@ChrisRiley]

It's for RGB lights. I converts 12/24v into higher current 5v so you can fun more lights. 8 RGB;s without, 30 with.

[@martybenitez5011]

Love you very informative channel. My 1.4 regular board is slightly different. Where you plug in your z probe is where my limit switches plug in

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Huh, there must have been different versions.

[@rameezzahid2138]

Hey, first of I oew you many thanks for providing such valuable information in such a detailed style. Secondly can you please guide me regarding the TMC connection error on my Lcd screen, I'm using SKR 1.4, 4 tmc 2209 drivers.

[@ChrisRiley]

That has been an issue on these board, double check your jumpers are set correctly. If that doesn't correct it, you may have a bad board.

[@billarnol722]

I'm just installing an skr v1.4 turbo board but with the TMC 2208 drivers which came with it. Are the settings the same as for the TMC2209 please. You have great videos and very informative keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, should be the same for 2208's just make the change in the Marlin config.

[@jacquesrooswinkel9954]

Thanks for all your effort Chris, great video again!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@anthony1young]

hey Chris thanks for that great 2 part video but please can you help me what screen do i choose for a tev tornado

[@ChrisRiley]

I am pretty sure that is the reprap discount full graphics display.

[@anthony1young]

@@ChrisRiley thanks man im having so much trouble with this tornado i hate it!!!! I cant get the screen to load

[@NefariousElasticity]

Have you guys had any problems with the V1.4T not working with E3D thermistor cartridges? I had the thermistor type configured properly in Marlin, had it plugged into the default pinheader (TH0, pin 0.24) and it was only reading 713C (this is with only the power supply and thermistor connected to the board, so the hotend heater element wasn't just going nuts). Still read 713C with the thermistor unplugged. Confirmed with a multimeter that the pins weren't shorted and tested with 3 E3D thermistors. Hell, I even assigned 0.23 and 0.25 to the E0 thermistor, and it still read crazy high temperatures. I returned the board for a replacement, and I'm hoping that board was just a lemon with some weird stuff going on. This was all on the newest non-bugfix branch of Marlin off of the github.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, sounds like something was up with that board, mine seem to play with that thermistor fine.

[@cybernetix86]

Hi Chris, with the skr 2 released, will you make a new video to compare the 1.4 t and the 2? I was about to order the 1.4 but I'll probably get the 2 instead

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, I will have that video coming up.

[@gerardoirigoyenbordarampe4664]

Hi Chris, as always your videos are awesome! I followed your instructions and I haven’t had any problems, except one. I can’t connect the SKR v1.4 turbo to my computer or to a raspberry via USB, it won’t appear any port when I plug it. I want to install octoprint on a raspberry, and everything has gone fine with the installation, but when I connect it via USB to the board, it doesn’t appear any port on octoprint( I’ve connected an arduino mega to see if the USB work fine on the raspberry and the desired port appears on octoprint and the connection is ok). Do you have any thought on how I could be able to get the USB port working on the board? I’d we very grateful for any help you could able to provide me 🙏

[@ChrisRiley]

Unfortunately, this is a really common failure on these boards. And there really isn't a lot you can do about it except switch out the board.

[@gerardoirigoyenbordarampe4664]

@@ChrisRiley thanks a lot Chris! I appreciate so much your response 🙏 I’m buying another one and I’ll cross my fingers

[@ChrisRiley]

@@gerardoirigoyenbordarampe4664 Good luck friend.

[@tomjones2860]

I have a couple of CR10S's and I figured now is the time to pull the plug on the noisy 8 Bit boards and upgrade to these... This is not for the faint of heart... Yes I got the first printer to boot, talk to OctoPrint and actually produce a test print. Challenges: 1) Cutting the hole in the case for the SSD card and "type B" USB connector. This was a fiddly pain. The templates and brackets on Thingiverse worked fine. 2) Backward LCD Screen Connectors and a Case fan without a connector 3) Marlin in VS Code is a pain, that was a day of install, uninstall, remove Python, add python... rinse repeat. And then suddenly it just decided to work... 4) Sensorless homing was DOA out of the gate. Never could get Marlin to get that to work, cut all of the extra pins on the TMC2209 and went old school homing. 5) Octoprint refused to auto connect needed to change all of the "firmware and protocol" settings in a way that was completely counter intuitive. 6) 3 days of pulling my hair out and... Success! Prints whisper quiet.. On to the next printer... The second printer is the same as the first with the addition of a BL Touch... should be easy... LOL wish me luck.. I will update in 3 days!

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice work Tom, the first one is the hardest one I am sure. :) Hang in there.

[@HackMonkey]

So editing the pins files is considered the proper way to rework things, and not just a hack that was the only way I could make it work? I had to move some things around for a delta config, felt dirty altering files other than Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Glad to hear it wasn't as much a Duck tape solution as I first thought!

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Scott, yeah, this is pretty much the only way to go. You can override a lot of pins in the config files as well, but I think the pins file rework is the way to go.

[@1akmason]

I have the 1.4 turbo I want to put it on a ender 5 with a BL touch, but I’m struggling with configuring marlin, i’m surprised people aren’t offering to set it up for $ because I bet there’s a lot of us struggling with that part of upgrading

[@ChrisRiley]

Maybe it's because I do them all for free? LOL

[@1akmason]

@@ChrisRiley ok then I need one for a 1.4 turbo on an ender 5 with a BL Touch

[@ChrisRiley]

@@1akmason Send me an email. [e-mail]

[@Chris-yx5wg]

This info is great! I had just ordered one of these with a bltouch. I hope I can figure out how to get this setup using the bltouch.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful! BLtouch coming soon.

[@garygarland9366]

Chris, I keep coming back to your two videos as the bible for installing and perhaps more importantly, configuring the SKR 1.4T. I have found my sensorless X and Y can offset the build area/priming stripe from print to print. If i have them too sensitive that's no good, and not sensitive enough grinds the belt. I'm at like 90 for the X and 80 for the Y, using 2226 drivers. Your numbers were something like 14, etc. so very different from mine. Any guidance is appreciated. Also, I had an idea I don't know how to implement - I'd like to see the bed SSR LED in a remote spot - i thought about printing some sort of holder for a fiber or clear filament to transfer the light, or else wondered if there's a viable way to extend an LED from "somewhere" - any ideas? Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Gary, on the sensorless homing, play around with feedrate and acceleration in your start gcode for homing, that can make it more accurate. Interesting thought on the SSR, It might be easier to just wire a new LED to the DC side and run it where you need it to go.

[@jamescullins2709]

Great video Chris, I do have a question. I have an SKR 1.3 in my CR-10 with 2208 drives. I bought on of the SKR 1.4 turbo MBoards with 2209 drives. My question is can I make a copy of my marlin 2 and change the name. THen change to the 1769 processor in Platformio.ini and change to the 2209 drives. Both will have the BLtouch. Is there any differences in the Ender 5 that I need to be aware of?

[@ChrisRiley]

I am not sure what they are, but yes, they will have differences. It is probably still a good place to start, but you might have to switch a few things like motor direction.

[@jamescullins2709]

@@ChrisRiley OK, There are some things that are a given that will need changes but as long as there is no looming disaster I will go for it. Thanks, I am waiting for my BLTouch before starting it.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@jamescullins2709 Check this out too, I just got sent this. www.patreon.com/posts/38588374?

[@jamescullins2709]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I will have a look at both.

[@WayneNewtonuk]

Chris, As always a fantastically informative tutorial. Thank you for the time and effort you clearly put in to making these. I was having trouble purchasing the BTT tmc2209's and went with Eryone 2209's. I understand that the Vref and diag pins on these boards are transposed although I can find very little documentation to confirm this. Can these pins be transposed for the SKR1.4 in marlin firmware or am I going to need to get creative with the soldering iron? Again many thanks for the content.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Wayne, I am really not sure the differences in those 2 boards, but, it is worth a try. I would just plug them in and see what works, as long as you have the direction and ground pins in the right place, you shouldn't hurt anything.

[@WayneNewtonuk]

@@ChrisRiley I can confirm that the ERYONE Tmc2209's DO have the diag and Vref pins transposed compared to the BTT 2209's To get sensorless homing to work with the SKR1.4 you need to snip the bottom pin off and use the header on the top of the 2209 to connect with a jumper to the SKR end stop pin for the axis in question. Hope this helps anybody who was confused as I was.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@WayneNewtonuk Thanks for the update.

[@bill8478]

Great video Chris! I'm going to upgrade one of my printers to this board, not sure which one yet.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! It should be a good time.

[@TheKondicional]

Hi there, great videos, btw. what is the difference between TMC 2209 drivers in 'cube' and the one already build in for example in SKR mini e3 (also TMC 2209)? Thanks in advance for clarification.

[@ChrisRiley]

There is no difference, they are the same chip.

[@tomjones2860]

Second CR10s was completed in a "full" day. BLTouch would not work in the "end stop" port for it on the 1.4 Board... So I changed my Marlin Code as per the 1.3 Board and plugged it into the Z Endstop pin and it was fine.

[@ChrisRiley]

That's great, thanks for telling us!

[@machinerin151]

Here's a crazy idea: what if, instead of physically cutting off the diag pin, we just redefined it in that pins configuration file from the correct one to empty unused one? Would that work? Because I'm not a fan of ruining an expensive TMC2209 driver board that might come in handy if X or Y driver burns out and your local shop only has classic A4988, which will work fine but only for extruder or Z, not the X and Y.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, you should be able to just move some things around in the pins file to get around clipping the pins.

[@Elingsanto]

If I'm using a TB600 dirver with SKR1.4, Should I connect the driver to the Closed Loop pins or to the normal driver pins? Thanks for the vid!

[@ChrisRiley]

Either one should work, I would go with the closed loop pins.

[@Elingsanto]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for answering! Much appreciated :)

[@MacFly669]

Yeah! Thank you Chris ! I just waiting mine to come from BTT. Just a question. I have purchase with the main board 2 step motors TMC 2209 for the X and Y axes for sensorless homing and 2 TMC 2208 for Z and extruder because of the no need of sensorless homing for Z and E0. Do I cut the diag pins for those two TMC2208 ? Thanks ;)

[@ChrisRiley]

You only need to clip the 2208's if you want to use detect0 and detect1 pins. Otherwise, it will be fine.

[@MacFly669]

@@ChrisRiley Thank for the quick reply but I am not sure to understand ^^ lol What is: "if you want to use detect0 and detect1 pins" ? Maybe have to watch this video again

[@ChrisRiley]

@@MacFly669 Basically, if you want to use a filament runout sensor, you will need to clip the pins. Look at your board, EN0 EN1, you can't use those pins on the board if you don't clip the pins.

[@MacFly669]

@@ChrisRiley Ok! thank you very much. Looking forward for part 2

[@mike94560]

Do you have a dead stock CR-10s display when upgrading to the SKR 1.4 board? Well I figured it out. The SKR 1.4 has the plastic alignment around each display connector BACKWARDS! Connector position of 1 and 2 connectors is correct. The slot that is supposed to align the pins is flipped. The slot should be pointed inboard not outboard.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, I have ran into that on a couple different screens, very frustrating.

[@ericww1993]

OH GREAT! All i need to do now is waiting for my shipment to arrive! :D

[@ChrisRiley]

😀👍

[@evandenenden]

Hi Chris, Allow me to comment on the E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN P2_04 (line 422 Configuration_adv.h) I believe the EO fan is an "always on" connection. Only the part fan (PIN P2_03) is controllable to my knowledge. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

[@ChrisRiley]

E0 is always on correct. I moved the fan to HE1, and used those pins.

[@MostlyInteresting]

Putting tinned wire ends into screw blocks will guarantee a loose connection eventually. The solder will creep under pressure. Better twisted bare wire if you are not going to use ferrel crimps.

[@ChrisRiley]

A great tip that can't be over stated.

[@MostlyInteresting]

@@ChrisRiley Its an electrical engineering 101 thing.

[@vince086]

Bit of a strange question, what driver do you recommend getting? Building my own printer and want the same features the Prusa MK3S has like silent/quiet motors, endstop less homing. The Prusa uses 2130 but here it seems like the 2209 has basically the same features.

[@ChrisRiley]

Go with a 2209 for sure. Much easier to use.

[@vince086]

@@ChrisRiley Sweet. Great video, it's long but has loads of details that I will need come building time. BTW what LCD module and bed sensor did you use? Don't think you mentioned them in the vid or description.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@vince086 On the printer in this video is a BTT TFT v3.0 3.5 and my sensor is a cheap inductive probe. www.aliexpress.com/item/32981810289.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.113c16bfWqZ918&algo_pvid=6739ea42-0e36-4388-aef9-d1025a17537f&algo_expid=6739ea42-0e36-4388-aef9-d1025a17537f-1&btsid=0ab50a5715920847541475844e79ae&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

[@deadsimpleali5540]

Hi Chris. Most needed video and very timely so thank you. Not sure if you will use the btt tft35 v3 screen, but if you do than please look into an issue. The marlin mode of the screen uses the latest configuration that has been uploaded by the user but the touch screen mode uses to all the default (factory) settings. The bed size, temp settings and everything. Not sure if I'm missing something.

[@ChrisRiley]

I do use that screen but haven't noticed that, but it makes since. The touch is just a controller. I will take a look at mine and see what I can come up with.

[@deadsimpleali5540]

Thank you Chris

[@deadsimpleali5540]

Hi Chris. When are you posting part 2. Im struggling with hotend fan controls. Connected to HE1 changed in Configuration Advance E0 to P2_04 but still keeps running.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@deadsimpleali5540 I will be out very soon.

[@MrOiam]

I really want to get back into my 3d printer(s) but such problems with the skr 1.3 and tft35 V2 left me with endless frustrations. can you recommend this board and the tft35 v3 as a completely compatible system? or what combination would you put your reputation on?

[@ChrisRiley]

I really can't, I know of a few boards, but I haven't tested enough to say one way or another. Affordable boards with TFT, BTT has it cornered.

[@MrOiam]

the affordable boards arent doing the job. unless your tied to pronterface full time. the TFT, BTT boards don't work , At least with the stock ANET, the expected features advertised worked the way they should. ( if that doesn't insult BTT, i don't know what will)

[@Elswalbe]

HI Chris, I am working on a stepper replacement for my y axis on my a8, and I decided to look into replacing the mainboard a long time ago. I think either way I will order a reasonably priced stepper motor to replace my skipping one, but also, the skr 1.4 turbo board, as daunting as it seems to be. Do you have any input on installing it on different printers, i3 clone built printers, etc? the 1.4 turbo is a great option since it runs both z motors without any adapters!

[@ChrisRiley]

The install should be very similar on most i3 machines. I personally would start with the ender3 config as a base line and go from there. The ender3 config on the marlin github is pretty solid.

[@Elswalbe]

Thank you for the reply. Is there any guidelines or reading I can look into on picking the right stepper drivers?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@Elswalbe Check this out. 3daddict.com/stepper-driver-comparison-3d-printer-upgrade/

[@Elswalbe]

@@ChrisRiley I ended up landed this morning with a delivered 1.4 turbo and a set of 2208 preconfigured to run in uART. following your guide compared with a few others I was able to get setup, I used the ender 3 1.4 firmware config and then cross referenced it with pid settings and metrics from the a8. I have the board up and running now, with the screen. I am just printing a case and a standoff that matches my mosfet board and frame.

[@Elswalbe]

Wish me luck, I expect that connecting steppers and fine tuning that will be the hardest part of this.

[@brennonr]

Ok, my anet a8 and ender 2 are out of commision, but i am certain i have enough working parts between the two to cobble a reprap together. i mean to order this board but got this one: BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 32Bit Control Board With TMC2209 UART Driver instead. When it gets here, I am hoping i can use your knowledge to get it to work. I also got a z motor splitter

[@ChrisRiley]

Let me know, I can try and help.

[@brennonr]

@@ChrisRiley I will go through your relevant videos again, once i get it, and let you know if i have success

[@nathantron]

I just got this board and I really need some help with the sensorless stuff. :( I'm really at a loss here, and I am also wondering; Can I flash the rom on this without any motors connected to it? Will that ruin it?

[@ChrisRiley]

For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!

[@leeowens9300]

Chris, will you be covering the part cooling fan config in part 2? Im struggling to make it controllable.....well even on at the minute. Im currently using a perm on fan port. Not very knowledgeable about FW. Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, the part fan is controllable in the stock port I showed here, but we do go over how to make the hotend fan controllable.

[@leeowens9300]

@@ChrisRiley cool thanks, great channel by the way 👍

[@Tysondrumm]

I've watched both Teaching Techs and your video and I'm still terribly confused. I picked up an Ender 5 , BTT SKR 1.4 turbo. BLTouch and the 2209s. Other than installing the bracket and the BLTouch itself I haven't made any changes. Do I need to clip the diagonal pin on all the drivers if I plan to use the BLtouch? Lastly I'm not sure which end stops I'm supposed to remove. Thank you for any help. Really hoping you see this sir, good videos!

[@ChrisRiley]

No, only clip them if you need to use E0 det, E1det, or PWR det. I would leave all the endstops in place and use the probe port for your bltouch. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmaTZaKLYqlpn6c

[@Tysondrumm]

@@ChrisRiley My man! Extremely prompt and very professional. I really appreciate your help. 👍

[@Levisgil47]

HI Chris, Could you make a video on the SKR PRO V1.1 or the GTR V1.0 along with the close loop device S42B V1.0 which seems to be very promising boards!

[@ChrisRiley]

I am still waiting on some close loop boards. We will see what I can do.

[@joergschoepp6650]

Chris, I just putting together a new printer and I have a lot of trouble configuring the 2209 for the steppers. I am doing it on a E3 Mini from Bigtree. The nema 17 motors are 42 with max 1.7 amps. When I hook them up they just jitter. Keep in mind I am used to the pots on 4988. To test I bought an original Creality Ender 3 stepper motor. Hooked it up and it ran. What is the current I need to set it too for my new motors above to make it work?

[@ChrisRiley]

You might have the stator flipped. There are two different motor configs that I have seen. Try flipping the center 2 wires on the motor cable.

[@joergschoepp6650]

Thanks Chris. I was working through the pandemic from my factory in Missouri (Not my home state) as we are maintaining Turbines and Generators for the Utilities. For 10 weeks I am in a Residence Inn and had to do something. What better way to spend time on the weekends than to build a new printer. My last design is two years old and I used Repetier and old drivers 49..with pots. This one is going to be quite different and I have not see one like it. Should be finished this weekend. I think the idea will work.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@joergschoepp6650 Ah, where at in MO, I am in KC. I hope you are staying safe and well.

[@joergschoepp6650]

I am in St Louis. My facilities here had to continue working through the shutdown to service the power generations turbines to keep the lights on. I cannot get the sensorless homing to work. I have ball screws on all three axis. First it did not work at all meaning it crashed into the stop no matter what sensitivity I set. Than I changed the TMC2209 to one with no DIAG pin.. All of a sudden it worked a little. The motor ran for about 10mm but in the wrong direction at 100 (I tried 250/8/20/60/100). I was pulling my hair out because I really like to get rind of those end-stops.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@joergschoepp6650 Ah, this is a mini, do you have the diag jumper wires connected?

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

Thanky you very much for this tutorial. I really appreciate that. I'm updating my Prusa clone to 32-bit and I am following your videos. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from the Basque Country!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it helped! Eskerrik asko nire bideoak ikusteagatik!

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRileyamazing! Now I am a huge fan hahaha

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRiley sorry but I need to ask you this question. Do you know basque, or you just send it to google translate?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@jongonzalezurbaneja6743 I did Google Translate. I remember hearing about your autonomous country a few years ago. Are you still apart of Spain?

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRiley Oh, no. It is not a country in itself. It is also known as Esukadi or Euskal Herria. Maybe the word "country" confuses you, but it is like a state within Spain. It is a group of three provinces (Bizkaia, Araba and Guipuzkoa). I am from Bilbao, a city within Bizkaia and, of course, we are the best. Why? Because of our gastronomic culture. It is impossible to find a place with such food variety, trust me.

[@carlwestman9343]

Do you know why they removed the diag jumper pins on the 1.4? Seems like that was a really nice feature? 🤔

[@ChrisRiley]

Just to make room I would guess. I agree with you, there are things I like about the 1.3 better.

[@wishicouldarduino8880]

Homing without sensor ! Who knew ? I'm still messing with the bltouch ! Where's that scratch build ?lol cool board and drivers ! Makes me want to buy more stuff. Cool video 👍😁👍🌞 .

[@ChrisRiley]

It's like magic! Thanks!

[@wishicouldarduino8880]

@@ChrisRiley found out the jumper for the ramps 1.6 for the servos is by e0 header now after all this time I maybe can use BL touch lol😁👍

[@ChrisRiley]

@@wishicouldarduino8880 Nice!

[@wishicouldarduino8880]

@@ChrisRiley hate to be a bother lol but I just got some new stepper motors nema 17 42 steppers what is the difference between them and garden variety nema 17 1.8 angle motors it doesn't say much other than that except bi polar and such are they better motors ? I want to put them on the Frankenstein printer on the bot are they an upgrade from the pancake style motors I have now ? Thanks for any advice 👍😁

[@ChrisRiley]

@@wishicouldarduino8880 Hey, not sure, can you send me a link to those and I will take a look.

[@KristinaFeldman]

Thank you so much for making this video. You may not have installed it in an Ender 3 or and Ender 3V2 (I really wish someone did an Ender 3V2 video) but This had enough information that I should be able to successfully do the install on my Ender. Thanks again!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help

[@bruceyoung1343]

CHRIS Is there a video coming out with SKR 1.4 turbo, TMC2226 stepper drivers with Ender 3 pro?

[@ChrisRiley]

Don't have anything with that combo on the list.

[@bruceyoung1343]

@@ChrisRiley list? You scheduled upcoming list?

[@bruceyoung1343]

I’d like to get the TMC2226 as most up to date. But not if incompatible with board/printer combo

[@AdamDeBeers]

Hello Chris, you look like an expert, who can answer my question, here it is. Ender 3 Pro has 20 teeth pulleys for X and Y axis, that means 80 steps per 1mm. What will happen, if you change these pulleys for 16 teeth. If I do count correctly ( Prusa calculator not me 😄 ) we should get 100 steps per 1mm. Will it increase the accuracy of Ender 3 Pro for example? Torgue should go higher too with accuracy I guess. If it does, maybe Creality could do it for all new Enders. What do you think? Can you test it? 20T pulley on Ender has pitch diamater 12,73mm, 16T pulley has pitch diamater 10,19mm. I can see it could work "on paper" I dont have spare Ender 3 Pro nor 16T pulley to test it on. Thank you very much for your answer. Have a nice day.

[@ChrisRiley]

I could test it out. I don't think you will see a lot of difference. The higher step count should get you better resolution on paper and the larger radius should make the belt run smoother.

[@AdamDeBeers]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you very much. I was just thinking on paper. 😄👍

[@dongletreehenley9744]

hey Chris ,i got the skr 1.4 with tmc 2209..im trying to configure the board so i can use the bltouch, also tft24-v1.1..atfer following along with your part 1 and 2 im having no luck,I also tried adding the wifi that you did as well,..so what i got is a config that works but no bltouch ,i did see that its possible there is a hardware problem with this board( wrong type resister or mosfet on one of the pins.)..as for the tft24..it will not connect to the printer..even after i updated the firmware on the screen..i am also using stallgard ..i did by the way snip the diag pin on the "z" but not on the E0 driver..i did not want to do this in case this 1.4 is no good and have to go back to the skr1.3..which works!..lol anyway just wandering if you could give some pointers!..thanks chris.

[@ChrisRiley]

If the 1.3 works it sounds like a bad board to me. If you have your serials set to 0 and the second to -1 and you baud rates match, your screen should work.

[@fuscus66]

as allways, great tutorials, keep up the good work

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you, will do!

[@jonathanduchesneau226]

Great video! just in time! Now waiting for part2...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! It's coming very soon!