BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 Mainboard - Full Install Part 1 - 2209 Drivers - Chris's Basement

[@gg-gn3re]

It's sad to see professional teachers and then see someone like Chris & how much better he does at displaying and relaying information. I wish companies would directly pay people like you.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the kind words.

[@torinschraven4957]

@@ChrisRiley Chris, if I'm using this with a cyclops extruder and hot end, how would I set up the filament run-out sensor for the two different filaments but only one extruder? because it says define the number of run-out sensors, one per extruder, but there is only one. Would I just say there is two extruders as to have two run out sensors?

[@MostlyInteresting]

wink wink....I know who that barb was aimed at. :)

[@techdiyer5290]

i think that its a little easier to explain things well and quickly with editing power/ when you actually have the knowledge and you know how to teach... Chris u did a great job!

[@brannonmcevers1854]

Thanks for all your in depth Kipper videos. Nobody else does Kipper better! Much appreciated Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you so much for the $10! You are very welcome, I'm glad the videos help!

[@jonmarler]

I am working on setting up the SKR 1.4 Turbo on what started as an Anet A8 printer and is now just a frankenprinter. Thank you for your simple and easy to understand description of how to configure the jumpers. This helped me out tremendously. I read the PDF documentation, but with all the model and part numbers flying about, I wasn't exactly sure how to set it all up. I'm confident I can get this setup now. Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help!

[@garyblake4296]

My 1.4 turbo board landed today and as ever this is the first place I look for a comprehensive easy to understand tutorial. Good to see the subscriber numbers climbing.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for your support!

[@jimfishify]

To those few people that gave Chris a thumbs down, there are two steps I can offer you. 1. squeeze your rubber ducky a couple times it will make you feel better. 2. Watch the film again, because Chris is very thorough and has done an amazing job... Thanks for the education on the BTT

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, thanks! They just need more duckys.

[@machielvanderschoot5180]

After watching several video's on your channel, it suddenly hit me. Your voice is calming. It's the voice of "I got your back bro, everything is going to be allright!"

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, well that is great! I was hoping that is what I was conveying. I am always here to help!

[@machielvanderschoot5180]

@@ChrisRiley Half an hour ago I had the maiden voyage of the SKR1.4 and it worked like a charm. So you definitely helped me. And a lot of others I assume. Thank you!

[@NathanBuildsRobots]

I ordered an SKR 1.4 without knowing what I was getting myself into. Way more than I signed up for, but glad I'm learning to do it. I'll be watching this video several times.

[@ChrisRiley]

Good luck with your project!

[@markferrick10]

Thanks Chris, great video as usual. At 13:34 NEVER solder wire and place it in a screw clamp terminal. Ferules ARE the best choice. Have to watch the pin assignment part a few time to absorb what you are saying.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Mark, during the pins file part I was starting to confuse myself.

[@bernonic]

Even after 2 years this still a good guide to understanding Marlin setup - current rev of Marlin has functions at different places but the explanations still stand - thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, thanks for the comment, glad it's still helpful.

[@nachiketmhatre7411]

I just love how Chris has replied to absolutely every comment in here. And that attitude shows in the thoroughness of the guide as well. The advice on crimping and electrical safety is on point, and usually missing from most other channels in this space. Keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Wow! Thank you

[@tomdevine3633]

Chris, perfect timing! I received my SKR v1.4 and TMC2209s last night! Got everything going by going through this video, your TMC2209 video, your SKR 1.3 video, and your VSCode video! and a little bit of googling... BLTouch is working, sensorless homing on X/Y, hotend fan controlled by E1 etc!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome!

[@JeanPierreLereboullet]

Thank you Chris ! Great Tutorials ! I don't like cutting pins and I didn't cut any pins on my five TMC2209 used with a SKR1.4 Turbo: 1) I just commented the two lines //E0_DIAG_PIN and //E1_DIAG_PIN (in pins_BTT_SKR_V1.4.h file), and use two filament sensors. 2) As I use a BLtouch, I changed - in the same file - Z_MIN_PIN to P0_10 and Z_STOP_PIN to P0_10 (without changing the Z_DIAG_PIN from P1_27).

[@emaayan]

yea but then you have to remember not to upgrade that as well, i hate changing any other file then the config and adv ones, as for the bltouch, there's an entire issue going on about that, i'm using mine WITH z endstop.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I hate cutting the pins too, very nice work around. I am going to tackle the BLtouch soon as well.

[@t0talbozA]

I didn't change/cut anything and it still works, don't know why. I am running stallguard on X and Y , Bltouch is connected to Z endstop header( didn't want to go to the computer to build again so I tried it..)

[@mironfs1]

@@ChrisRiley you can buy pin extenders, cut those and plase them between board anc driver

[@ChrisRiley]

@@mironfs1 Great idea.

[@Solitaire1]

Well, that was timely. I'm just installing an skr v1.4 turbo in my Ender 5 right now. There were a couple of things that I was unsure of but this video helped clear them up. Please don't be too long in releasing part 2!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful, it will be out very soon.

[@cybernetix86]

At around 31:30 my brain started to melt with all the pins infos. However, your video are amongst the best for explaining those kind of things. Great job Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@daninaustin]

i have been watching and learning from you since i got my first Kossel Delta from Anycubic! thanks for the AWESOME vids! please keep it up if you can!

[@ChrisRiley]

You're very welcome! I'm glad you're enjoying the content.

[@adamshay1592]

So far the most informative and easy to follow video I have found to date. I have this board (turbo) I have been trying to get running with the tft35 v3.0 I feel this has gotten me the closest. got bummed out when i found out the video just went out, looking forward to a sequel. been a tough learning curve for first dip into coding.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Adam, the second part will be out soon.

[@mikestrong82]

guides like this are hard to find anymore. keep up the good work.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks, will do!

[@DavidTLutz]

Excellent video. You do a great job anticipating what some lesser experienced viewers (myself) might not know to fully understand what you are describing. 👍👍

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you very much!

[@anthonyrich1592]

I love this sort of video. Great job, Chris! Whenever I get a new board I use a red Sharpie marker to draw indicator dots on each of the positive screw terminals. Saves a lot of grief when you're trying to hook all the wires up in limited space inside a printer and can't see the silkscreen.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! That is a great idea, I never seem to just do this easy stuff first, I always wait and struggle later. Someday I will learn my lesson. :)

[@oriongaby]

@@ChrisRiley I suggest a silver Sharpie since the terminal blocks and board are both black, non-metallic Sharpies are very hard to see on a black surface.

[@lukemason2232]

I painted the +ve terminals red. A sharpie seems much easier

[@TrevFD3]

Thank you, thank you and thank you. This is by far the clearest and most in depth walkthrough of everything needed. Your teaching style and knowledge is excellent and have turned a Marlin newbie into a Marlin newbie 2.0. Just what I needed to get this up and running with an Anycubic Mega X which has been nothing but trouble. I finally understand how Marlin, compiling and the inner workings of my printers which will help so much with my other machines. The only difficulty I am having is with the dual z motors and the two strings endstops which are on the machine. I'm getting away with just using one z endswitch and manually syncing each side. This is something I'll work on in the future. Thanks again and keep up your awesome work on your channel

[@ChrisRiley]

Next, Marlin guru! Thanks for watching

[@kevinm3751]

Awesome, my 1.4 turbo arrives Thursday and will be putting it in my Ender 3 pro so these videos are timely as usual Chris, U ROCK!

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Good luck with the build.

[@kevinm3751]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, yea chomping at the bit and watching my alerts for your next video. I am stalled right now at the end of your first one as I dont want to go further until i get Marlin setup right. I tried to use Teaching Techs video on this same topic but after two attempts to follow his it just crashed with error when I uploaded the firmware and so far you have already touched on things he never even mentioned which I find odd. I think I backed the wrong horse as I signed up for his Patreon, going to change that this weekend and give YOU that money instead...;) Here I set patiently waiting for part 2...;)

[@ChrisRiley]

@@kevinm3751 Thanks Kevin, I am finishing up editing now. Very soon!

[@meltonpieman959]

Great Chris. Wish you had made this a month ago ..... it would have saved me many headaches! Even so, your explanations make me understand more of what I did by trial and error. David

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey David, sorry it wasn't sooner, but thanks for watching anyway. :)

[@MrWaalkman]

On one hand, it's great to see that the more affordable boards are stepping up their game and coming out with some nice hardware. On the other hand, having to go to this level of difficulty setting up the board for Marlin is, well, daunting. I went through this process for my FLSun, which was mandatory since the firmware as provided by FLSun did not work. More correctly, the SD card that came with the board was faulty, and/or wasn't loaded properly at the factory. FLSun support consisted of email support, which wasn't much help at all, so I took a config file out of the Marlin source that resembled my machine (the CL-260 IIRC) and created my own firmware. It took forever, but I got things working fairly well, and then two things happened. My Z endstop quit working on the board (something that had also happened to other FLSun owners), and Marlin rolled out a new version and broke many of my settings for my board. Enter the Maestro board. But for someone on a tight budget, this board really does look nice. And it is a whole lot cheaper than a Duet. And your knowledge of the Marlin firmware is encyclopedic, very impressive!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! I know it's still kind of a pain, but Marlin has some stuff in the works that should make things easier.

[@saschacutic6728]

Chris, almost every second of your two videos is full of valueable information. I keep constantly coming for reference! Thanks a lot

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, that is great to hear.

[@georgeventurini1301]

Hello Chris. Your videos are very helpful. THANK YOU. However to anyone considering this board...DON'T... I have had three fail. They work great until they don't. Additionally don't expect any customer service from BTT. I have been waiting for over two years for a response to an email. If it wasn't for guys like Chris there would be no help at all. Thanks again Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Sorry to hear that, thanks for the heads up.

[@demonprincess5634]

i just got the board and i been pulling out my hair, so far your video is helping...

[@ChrisRiley]

That's great! Good luck

[@BigDaddysChannel]

I have been struggling for the past 3 days trying to get Marlin configured correctly, I just finally got it to work last night. I am running a coreXY machine and Next I want to figure out how to run 2 stepper drivers to run the 2 Motors. The reason why I want to run it this way is because Marlin has an option to level the bed from side to side (Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN). My setup is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm.

[@ChrisRiley]

Cool, yep, that is pretty easy, in configuration_adv.h, there is an option already setup for that. You just uncomment it and it will use your E1 driver for the second Z by default.

[@Robothut]

Fantastic job Chris. So much detailed information on these new boards and proper set up. Thank you for sharing with us all.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching John! I watched your Robothut walk-through the other day, really awesome place. I want to come and take the tour.

[@dongletreehenley9744]

Hey Chris great you got round to doing this setup on the skr 1.4/turbo..I smoked about 3 of the 1.4...lol..I also had the tmc2209 and although I got things to work like stalgard..I could not get the bltouch to work..and now I see why..I think.. like you pointed out you need to clip the pin on the z ..this was never really made clear in the documention..I hope you will maybe cover the setup of the bltouch ,using the dedicated pins on the board..it seems a lot of people could not get it to work and just tried using the z min end stop pin...again great work Chris..so glade your on this!!..I now will order myself a new skr turbo and try again!.

[@Firstleaker]

Dongletree henley - Hello Dongletree, yeah there is some confusion about the BLTouch wiring. Tripods Garage has a video that was released last week using the dedicated pins on the Skr 1.4 Turbo. Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful, I do intend to go over the bltouch setup as well.

[@bruceyoung1343]

CHRIS Is there a video coming out with SKR 1.4 turbo, TMC2226 stepper drivers with Ender 3 pro?

[@ChrisRiley]

Don't have anything with that combo on the list.

[@bruceyoung1343]

@@ChrisRiley list? You scheduled upcoming list?

[@bruceyoung1343]

I’d like to get the TMC2226 as most up to date. But not if incompatible with board/printer combo

[@dalecooper7218]

These SKR 1.4 vids helped me so much. I just replaced my GT2560 with BTT stuff. The connectors on the board are JST-XH. I tried duponts on the Z-Stop. I found them too sloppy, or 'my dupont' connections were too sloppy, and kept falling off the pins.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great, yeah, the duponts aren't a great long term solusion.

[@ador75]

Thank you Chris. Great timing! My SKR 1.4 with 2209s is its way to me. Looking forward to going back to your video to help me set it up.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great! Good luck with your build!

[@DerrickPerrin]

Hacking at making my own prenter. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this series. You rock.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching. Good luck with your project!

[@bobkinloch]

Have just done everything in part 1 ,, really great , informative and spot on. I cant wait for part 2 and get my printer going !!! Keep up the good work Chris

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Bob! Part 2 coming very soon.

[@anglomenace499]

Best tutorial video for this board on youtube!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it was helpful!

[@thewalabee1414]

This video is great...at showing me how much I have to learn still. Thanks Chris!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@PJC3DP]

Great video, I recently forced a SKR V1.4 Turbo into my CR-10S Pro. I am using Vanilla Marlin 2.0.5. After a bit of googling I managed to get the BL touch probe port enabled. I am really happy with sensor less homing and the access I have to adjust firmware settings through my TFT35 V3.0 duel mode screen.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Glad it's working for you.

[@crateer]

I got my SKR 1.4 Turbo 3 days ago, first thing I managed to do was to smoke the 10A Fuse I then stole a spare one from my car and it worked xD I also only bent the Pins on my 2209s, since I don't want to remove anything

[@ChrisRiley]

LOL, nice! Yeah, I hate snipping those pins.

[@martybenitez5011]

Love you very informative channel. My 1.4 regular board is slightly different. Where you plug in your z probe is where my limit switches plug in

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Huh, there must have been different versions.

[@jacquesrooswinkel9954]

Thanks for all your effort Chris, great video again!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@fuscus66]

as allways, great tutorials, keep up the good work

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you, will do!

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

Hopefully this video actually gets this going I got the lcd and the turbo board for my ender 3 and been having lot trouble with the firmware

[@bruceyoung1343]

Jabber. That is what’s holding me back. I don’t want to upgrade my Ender3 pro until I fully understand how to make firmware tweaks

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

@@bruceyoung1343 yea I followed his video and it wouldn't compile at the end idk where I went wrong I need to set my homing settings but also my bed won't heat .keeps giving me error ...idk part my problem could also be that lcd screen idk

[@ChrisRiley]

If it won't compile you can send me the errors and I can point you in the right direction.

[@GreenFiyaEnt]

@@ChrisRiley I keep getting unknown motherboard value in configuration.h

[@tomjones2860]

Second CR10s was completed in a "full" day. BLTouch would not work in the "end stop" port for it on the 1.4 Board... So I changed my Marlin Code as per the 1.3 Board and plugged it into the Z Endstop pin and it was fine.

[@ChrisRiley]

That's great, thanks for telling us!

[@tomjones2860]

I have a couple of CR10S's and I figured now is the time to pull the plug on the noisy 8 Bit boards and upgrade to these... This is not for the faint of heart... Yes I got the first printer to boot, talk to OctoPrint and actually produce a test print. Challenges: 1) Cutting the hole in the case for the SSD card and "type B" USB connector. This was a fiddly pain. The templates and brackets on Thingiverse worked fine. 2) Backward LCD Screen Connectors and a Case fan without a connector 3) Marlin in VS Code is a pain, that was a day of install, uninstall, remove Python, add python... rinse repeat. And then suddenly it just decided to work... 4) Sensorless homing was DOA out of the gate. Never could get Marlin to get that to work, cut all of the extra pins on the TMC2209 and went old school homing. 5) Octoprint refused to auto connect needed to change all of the "firmware and protocol" settings in a way that was completely counter intuitive. 6) 3 days of pulling my hair out and... Success! Prints whisper quiet.. On to the next printer... The second printer is the same as the first with the addition of a BL Touch... should be easy... LOL wish me luck.. I will update in 3 days!

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice work Tom, the first one is the hardest one I am sure. :) Hang in there.

[@marioizzo4985]

Hi Chris, Thanks for the very useful info. I am doing everything like you in the video, but the only thing that happens is to have after the firmware is loaded, the error err: MAXTEMP: bed. Doesn't matter if the thermistors are connected or not, the board stuck with that error. Any suggestions? Are 15 days I am looking around and no solution are given. Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Sounds like maybe you have a short on the board or a pin that is off. It is sensing too high of a resistance. Check the solder joints on those pins. I would try to get another board.

[@marioizzo4985]

@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thanks for the answer. I did a test. I changed, in pin file, the temp bed pin from 0_25 to 0_23(th1 pin) and commented the temp 1 pin. The error now is err: maxtemp: E1. I didn't expect that result, so I don't understand. I will send back the board, but this is the second defective board. After its success I except from BTT a better QC. Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

@@marioizzo4985 I wouldn't expect that either, QC is a bit sketchy.

[@The_Mimewar]

I’m about to get one of these to replace my stock Anet board. We use Marlin, and I really wanted to know if this ran Marlin, and how hard it was to setup Marlin. Thanks for these videos. I think I can run Marlin with your help!

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome, yes, this should get you most of the way there for your ANET.

[@ericww1993]

OH GREAT! All i need to do now is waiting for my shipment to arrive! :D

[@ChrisRiley]

😀👍

[@MostlyInteresting]

Putting tinned wire ends into screw blocks will guarantee a loose connection eventually. The solder will creep under pressure. Better twisted bare wire if you are not going to use ferrel crimps.

[@ChrisRiley]

A great tip that can't be over stated.

[@MostlyInteresting]

@@ChrisRiley Its an electrical engineering 101 thing.

[@johnlytle6633]

Hi Chris, Thanks for another great lesson. I am retrofitting a Maker Gear printer that has a 24v power supply. I haven't been able to find out what the DC IN is supposed to be. Would you please let me know what input voltage is recommended? Never mind, I found the input power specs for the SKR 1.4, 12-24 VDC.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yep, 12 or 24v work just fine.

[@jasonkuffel826]

On a TMC 2208 driver i do not have those pins (7:42ish) that I am supposed to clip one. Is that going to be an issue?

[@ChrisRiley]

2208's won't have them. Diag is just for sensorless homing.

[@jonathanduchesneau226]

Great video! just in time! Now waiting for part2...

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! It's coming very soon!

[@ryanroebeck8195]

@ChrisRiley i have followed your every step doing this but cant get the printer dailed in to print a decent first layer. Can we perhaps connect on a call

[@ChrisRiley]

I don't have a lot of times for calls, but I can try to help you as time permits via email. [e-mail]

[@rbondy008]

Do I understand this correctly? Everytime you want to send a command to the printer you have to open the case and move the jumper if you were using mains?

[@ChrisRiley]

No, you can still talk to the board USB with the jumper switch, USB just won't power up the board.

[@giusn]

I was about to buy the SKR, but I got instead the MKS SGEN L + 5x TMC2209 for €22. There's really no excuse anymore not to go 32bit + Trinamic now. A Ramps board + Arduino Mega + Allegro drivers costs more.

[@ChrisRiley]

You are 100% correct, I think 32 is here to stay. ;)

[@_F5X]

Hi Chris, at 11:58 you are using for both Z motors the same driver. How do you handle the second Z stop? I did remap P1_25 (E1DET) pin as ZMAX to use in Configuration_adv.h for the Z2_USE_ENDSTOP. is there any other way without remapping in the pins file? how do you solve this problem? btw I'm using 2 driver for dual Z (E1). thanks in advance

[@ChrisRiley]

You shouldn't have to remap anything. Marlin has this build in. Check configuration_adv.h. there is an option for dual Z that will set it up for you. Just uncomment it.

[@_F5X]

@@ChrisRiley thanks for your answer, I know the part but you still have to connect the Z2 endstop to a pin. Marlin predefines X2 as Z2 referring to E0 filament detection which I'm already using so I took the next free E1 filament detection pin. many thanks for your grate work.

[@RAWTech-jh4kl]

JTS Style Connectors For The Win!! :) Very Informational, great job!

[@ChrisRiley]

I only say that about 300 times a day, not sure why I kept getting it wrong that day...jeez, thanks!

[@jonathanjansen5577]

I'm thinking about ordering the SKR v1.4 and TMC2209's for my CR10s to replace the stock board but i'm having a hard time finding much about using the 2209's on the extruder. I know that the 2208's had some problems with linear advance, but I cant find much about the 2209's. To play it safe, I might purchase an LV8729 for the extruder but i'm not sure if it's really necessary. Im also new to upgrading the printer boards and this seems like a lot but i like to tinker and im sure i could stumble my way through it, especially given all the videos regarding setting it up like the one you have here.

[@ChrisRiley]

You should be all set using a 2209 on the extruder, I run them on a couple of printers now, no issues seen with linear advance.

[@jonathanjansen5577]

Chris Riley Awesome! Im definitely going to go for the 2209’s then. I really appreciate you going through all your comments and replying to each and every one! It’s not something you see often from content creators. Keep up the awesome work!

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

And I thought my MKS Config was involved. I needed 3 diff creator videos and a bit of head scratching to get 1.1.x working back in spring '19. Never could get sensorless to work on 2.x so I jumped to Klipper.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, there is a bit to do for sure.

[@MrPaulMadson]

I just found out that you can use both sensorless homing and mechanical switches as the same time. Sensorless homing uses high signal for stall detection, so if you wire your endstop accordingly, (that is using pulling high when triggered) you can use them both. There is a github discussion where it is stated, that when the driver is pulling to 0 and the endstop is pulling to hight there is still enough tolarence for the driver (the drivers pullup current is 40u, and the safe minimum for the pin is 2mA -quoted from the discussion)

[@ChrisRiley]

👍🙂

[@NefariousElasticity]

Have you guys had any problems with the V1.4T not working with E3D thermistor cartridges? I had the thermistor type configured properly in Marlin, had it plugged into the default pinheader (TH0, pin 0.24) and it was only reading 713C (this is with only the power supply and thermistor connected to the board, so the hotend heater element wasn't just going nuts). Still read 713C with the thermistor unplugged. Confirmed with a multimeter that the pins weren't shorted and tested with 3 E3D thermistors. Hell, I even assigned 0.23 and 0.25 to the E0 thermistor, and it still read crazy high temperatures. I returned the board for a replacement, and I'm hoping that board was just a lemon with some weird stuff going on. This was all on the newest non-bugfix branch of Marlin off of the github.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, sounds like something was up with that board, mine seem to play with that thermistor fine.

[@EngineeringTechnikcom]

good guide. thanks. i know nothing about this topic. this will help a lot. my board just arrrived today. Is it possible to swap the 2x Z-axis drivers so i can have dual x-axis drivers instead?

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure, it's in configuration_adv.h //#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS #if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS) #define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR true // Set 'true' if X motors should rotate in opposite directions //#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS #if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS) #define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_ #define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0 #endif #endif

[@Flat4BRM]

Good stuff here, Chris. My BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo w/ TMC2209's are on their way. I'm installing it in an older Omni3D Architect 1.1 that utilizes optical endstops. Would you recommend using sensorless homing, or use the existing endstops? Also, the printer came with an RAMPS 1.4 board....any further tips on transferring connections from the old RAMPS board to this new one (ie: hotend fans, cooling fans, etc.)?

[@ChrisRiley]

I would probably start with the endstops to just confirm everything is working before moving to sensorless homing, it can be flaky. RAMPS you probably had dupont connectors, you will have JST on the SKR, you can either remove the plug shrouds from the board or make an adapter.

[@gmac317]

Dumb question, but which ones are the bed heater wires that go into the SKR board? Working on building a 3D printer and I thought the two wires that are attached to the heated bed are wired directly to the PSU (meanwell). Do those get wired to this location at 12:43 instead? Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

If you have a DC heated bed, they will need to go to the terminals I show or it will be on all the time at max temp.

[@gmac317]

@@ChrisRiley okay, that makes sense - thanks for clarifying!!

[@Waltkat]

Good timing. I need a new controller for my Ender 3 since the crappy SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board I had only lasted a couple of months. I hope this one lasts longer. At least if one of the stepper drivers dies I won't have to replace the whole board.

[@ChrisRiley]

Let me know how it goes, I am curious what kind of case mods people are doing.

[@nathantron]

I just got this board and I really need some help with the sensorless stuff. :( I'm really at a loss here, and I am also wondering; Can I flash the rom on this without any motors connected to it? Will that ruin it?

[@ChrisRiley]

For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!

[@mauriciomoraes3226]

Hey Chris! what 8mm probe are you using? I am having trouble with Z-height variation due to thermal expansion... If I probe the bed after heating up the nozzle and bed, the results are usually messed up.

[@ChrisRiley]

I use this one a lot. www.aliexpress.com/item/32801244337.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5d3649eeyalybZ&algo_pvid=fd55fc6b-5145-4f5b-a723-ee7543593633&algo_expid=fd55fc6b-5145-4f5b-a723-ee7543593633-3&btsid=0ab6f83115940629943685900e2a76&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ You might want to try a Pinda as well. www.printedsolid.com/products/pinda-1-probe-replacement

[@mauriciomoraes3226]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the info... I am using a LJ8A3-2-Z/AX-5V NPN NC.. Does the fact that yours NO make any difference? My printer is also a modded CR-10S (stock bed) with a magnetic pad and flexible steel plate.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@mauriciomoraes3226 No, NO or NC doesn't matter. Just flip the endstop inverting to make them work.

[@andreasmohr7835]

Hi Chris Thank you so much for your awesome videos, they help me so much! I have one question though: What do I do if I have clipped off a pin on my TMC2130 stepper driver (diag pins or the pins for the SPI connection) and now want to use these on an SKR 1.4? I had to clip them off because I used them previously on a RAMPS but now I'd like to use them on my new board, if possible without soldering new pins to the bottom of the drivers. Is it possible to do some wiring as it is done on the ramps and what do I have to do with the jumpers then?

[@ChrisRiley]

On a 1.4 check this out. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4PIN.pdf You can use the CLS pins below the driver with some jumper to the top of the driver. Also the diag pin you can run it over to the min endstop pin for sensorless homing.

[@lundebc]

This is a great video, but where can I find those connectors you used for the power wiring? I am not using the right search term I guess?

[@ChrisRiley]

These are them. www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Tool-Kit-0-08-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07K17VDF2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ferrels+wire&qid=1594264654&sr=8-2

[@f16pilotjumper]

Have an old MK2S that needs some love, looking forward to Part 2

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! It will be out soon!

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

Thanky you very much for this tutorial. I really appreciate that. I'm updating my Prusa clone to 32-bit and I am following your videos. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from the Basque Country!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it helped! Eskerrik asko nire bideoak ikusteagatik!

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRileyamazing! Now I am a huge fan hahaha

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRiley sorry but I need to ask you this question. Do you know basque, or you just send it to google translate?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@jongonzalezurbaneja6743 I did Google Translate. I remember hearing about your autonomous country a few years ago. Are you still apart of Spain?

[@jongonzalezurbaneja6743]

@@ChrisRiley Oh, no. It is not a country in itself. It is also known as Esukadi or Euskal Herria. Maybe the word "country" confuses you, but it is like a state within Spain. It is a group of three provinces (Bizkaia, Araba and Guipuzkoa). I am from Bilbao, a city within Bizkaia and, of course, we are the best. Why? Because of our gastronomic culture. It is impossible to find a place with such food variety, trust me.

[@cybernetix86]

Hi Chris, with the skr 2 released, will you make a new video to compare the 1.4 t and the 2? I was about to order the 1.4 but I'll probably get the 2 instead

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, I will have that video coming up.

[@garygarland9366]

Chris, I keep coming back to your two videos as the bible for installing and perhaps more importantly, configuring the SKR 1.4T. I have found my sensorless X and Y can offset the build area/priming stripe from print to print. If i have them too sensitive that's no good, and not sensitive enough grinds the belt. I'm at like 90 for the X and 80 for the Y, using 2226 drivers. Your numbers were something like 14, etc. so very different from mine. Any guidance is appreciated. Also, I had an idea I don't know how to implement - I'd like to see the bed SSR LED in a remote spot - i thought about printing some sort of holder for a fiber or clear filament to transfer the light, or else wondered if there's a viable way to extend an LED from "somewhere" - any ideas? Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey Gary, on the sensorless homing, play around with feedrate and acceleration in your start gcode for homing, that can make it more accurate. Interesting thought on the SSR, It might be easier to just wire a new LED to the DC side and run it where you need it to go.

[@Elingsanto]

If I'm using a TB600 dirver with SKR1.4, Should I connect the driver to the Closed Loop pins or to the normal driver pins? Thanks for the vid!

[@ChrisRiley]

Either one should work, I would go with the closed loop pins.

[@Elingsanto]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for answering! Much appreciated :)

[@brandonbell359]

You already know this, but this is exactly what I need. Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad to hear it!

[@somethingtocosplayassometh21]

I just bought this but I don't have the drivers with it I was wondering do I really need the drivers if I don't want senserless homing

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, you have to have drivers to run the motors.

[@anthony1young]

hey Chris thanks for that great 2 part video but please can you help me what screen do i choose for a tev tornado

[@ChrisRiley]

I am pretty sure that is the reprap discount full graphics display.

[@anthony1young]

@@ChrisRiley thanks man im having so much trouble with this tornado i hate it!!!! I cant get the screen to load

[@abbo7647]

Hi I have this board the turbo and the 2209 stepper drivers. What are the settings I would need for the cr-10s. Sorry to ask novice questions

[@ChrisRiley]

Check out the Mini video from today. You can use the Marlin example for the CR10 to get you started.

[@yevgeniychinikaylo8125]

love it cant wait for part 2

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@fpvm4k3r]

#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM is a feature I enable on my machines, very handy so you can turn off soft endstops in the Motion menu. Good for doing maintenance or setting your Z offset without having access to a terminal. I have an SKR 1.4 turbo I'm going to install on my Taz 5 as a part oi a little wiring revamp as well.. been having some issues lately with the X stepper motor wires getting hot, banging my head against the wall troubleshooting filament constantly grinding on my aero, really hot stepper drivers as well as other odd motor behavior.... figured its time for an upgrade anyway. thanks for the vid!

[@ChrisRiley]

Great point James, thanks for the comment, good luck with your build!

[@carlwestman9343]

Do you know why they removed the diag jumper pins on the 1.4? Seems like that was a really nice feature? 🤔

[@ChrisRiley]

Just to make room I would guess. I agree with you, there are things I like about the 1.3 better.

[@muckademuck]

Thanks Chris! Outstanding video.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks!

[@okolepuka808]

very thorough. man am I stuck...something funky is going on with my skr 1.4 turbo in tarantula pro, 2208s and bltouch. after homing, the extruder parks in the back right corner instead of centering. the center position reads x60 y61, but my bed size is defined 235 x 235. safe homing is defined, at x &y /2 bed size. I've only done the basic changes to marlin, So I'm stumped, how do I define my bed size at the correct dimensions and get it to home centered? If all else fails, how do I factory reset the SKR, so I can rule out saved settings and focus on troubleshooting the firmware?

[@ChrisRiley]

So first thing, do a m502 then an M500 to clear out defaults. Then, if you are still not in the center, if your nozzle is outside the print bed at home, add the amounts outside in the negative to your min home position.

[@okolepuka808]

@@ChrisRiley Ill try that--thanks man

[@t4rif4ri]

I want to usw beigtreetech 2208 with this board. I dont want sensorless homing. do i have to take care of something?

[@ChrisRiley]

They will work just fine

[@RagaiMeena]

Chris, what a wonderful Tutorial. Thank you for this. My question: is there a way to leave and activate the stock endstops , not use sensorless homin g, without having to cut off the diag pin? Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Unfortunately not that I know of. I know it's a bummer to clip the pins. You could get around it with some tricky edits in the pins file.

[@mopesca]

I did bend mine slightly outwards, and made sure nothing is touching

[@GrizzlyTheMechanic]

hi Chris i have a question if you could answer. After a short circuit of print cooling fan cables my board became unusable. q3 ligth is on and red ligth is not turning on. İs this a dead end or could it be saved. I changed the fuses by the way nothing works. Appriciate if you can help.

[@ChrisRiley]

That usually means the voltage regulator got cooked, not sure you can save it.

[@acestu]

Hi Chris, I just bought this board and it came with 5 x TMC2209 like you have , is E1 just for 2 extruder motors and if so do i just not fit it until the day I get a second extruder ? Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

You can use it either way. Remove it for now and reserve is for E1 or you can use it for your second Z motor. It's don't hurt anything to leave it installed either.

[@peterr.4768]

If you are connecting the Z Steppers like this are you also able to use auto Bed tilt function G34 in Marlin?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure if you can do 2 with tilt or you have to use 3, but you can use the G34 to line the gantry up.

[@lab14561]

I ordered TMC2209 from BTT before ordering my board. Then I ordered the SKR 1.4 with 2209 drivers. The individually purchased drivers are v2.1, the included drivers are 1.2. The 2.1 drivers do not have the pins facing downward...the 1.2 drivers do. Are there any other changes I should be aware of? Figure I will start with the 2.1 and see if they work as I wouldnt need to alter the pins at all.

[@ChrisRiley]

I am not exactly sure what the difference is. I am getting some in the mail sometime soon I hope. I will compare them.

[@lab14561]

Chris Riley actually the v2.1s were not from BTT but rather Fystec resold by BCZAMD. They seem to work then crash on X axis with either sensor or sensor less homing. Installed the 1.2s that came with my SKR 1.4 Turbo and back working

[@thehappyextruder7178]

Me from he Future sure glad you made these Videos !!! Great info again just in time. !!! Keep up the great content Chris and Thanks.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome Ron, hope these help with your build.

[@techdiyer5290]

How do you start the platform io? its not building it corretlly... it says atmega instead of BTT SKR 1.4

[@ChrisRiley]

From the platformio alien ico you select you env, for turbo it;s lpc1769.

[@techdiyer5290]

@@ChrisRiley It messed up my programming because i downloaded after i started the file so i have to re do it... Rip

[@V843v3r]

how to use the e1 stepper driver as a second z axis to utilize the g34 z leveling feature?

[@ChrisRiley]

Check this one out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aZukd4SaidBrn9k

[@mikethorne1390]

Hey Chris, I talked to you about the tmc2209 issue and I finally resolved it. The line in the firmware in conf_adv.h (software enable) mine was defined for this but even though it's for Uart mode, the drivers have dedicated pins and this should be uncommented. It was quite vexing but I got there with some help from the GitHub forum. Thanks for your help.

[@ChrisRiley]

I am glad you found it, thanks for the update.

[@HAtronics127]

Sir plz guide me i want to speed up my 3d printer what should i do i also use tmc5160 drivers and mother board is skr 1.4

[@ChrisRiley]

The easiest way is to install input shaper. You can do this running Marlin and Klipper. I have install videos on both.

[@henriquem3111]

Is is worth it upgrading the ender 3 v2 main board to a SKR board? The OEM is already 32 bits on the v2, so I have this doubt

[@ChrisRiley]

I would say no, just keep the stock one for now.

[@henriquem3111]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you! Lets wait and see what will be the next step from Bigtree as improvement

[@flopesff]

Chris.... excellent tutorial but I have a question.... How BTT DCDC mode v1.0 work? What do I use for?

[@ChrisRiley]

It's for RGB lights. I converts 12/24v into higher current 5v so you can fun more lights. 8 RGB;s without, 30 with.

[@EnergySeeker]

hi chris do you have a video like that for predator ? and SKR 1.4

[@ChrisRiley]

I don't, haven't done a delta yet.

[@EnergySeeker]

@@ChrisRiley you will love it , and i suggest to you the Anycubic Predator amazing printer , i installed SKR 1.4 turbo in it and Cooperhead with 50 Watts block heater to do PC and maybe Peek

[@ianhunter2817]

Thanks for the video, have a question: so I am installing this board onto a cr10s, the x,y,z switches are 2 wire terminal ends? could I connect it so either power and signal or ground and signal wire make the 2 connector work with the 3 pin configuration on the board?

[@ianhunter2817]

looks like you can clip the left hand part of the white clip to make the 2 wire end fit into the 3 position pin on the 1.4, should work.

[@ChrisRiley]

You can hook it up to just signal and ground, as you stated you might just have to get creative with the clip.

[@MacFly669]

Hi Chris ! I would like to know if you have any idea about my issue with my skr 1.4 and dual Z. Sometimes both Z motors works as expected but sometimes just one motor works and the second one do no move. What is the problem here ? thanks (I use TMC 2209 for XY and 2208 for Z/E)

[@ChrisRiley]

Hmmm, not sure there, the only thing I can think to check is cable issue. If one moves, they should both move. That is how the board is configured.

[@bradleykelley6835]

Great work. But I have a question. How do you compile a source code file that doesn't have the project file included. I have a Sovol 3d printer. They have firmware Marlin source code and .hex file but no io project file. I need to change my thermistor pins from 13 to 15 and recompile the .hex. Any thoughts

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! There is no way to back out like this. You will need to find the source project.

[@techdiyer5290]

20:24 What do i do for sensor less homing? With my TMC2130s ok, thanks! Sensor less homing: 20:50

[@ChrisRiley]

🙂👍