Marlin Unified Bed Leveling - How To - Chris's Basement

[@klaymon03]

Chris I can't say enough about how much this has changed my printer. I got a new inductive probe and an SKR Mini E3 V2 and have been fighting getting the bed leveled. Even with an automatic 25 point probe before each print I was struggling to find the right height on my not-flat bed. I followed your instructions and the very first print nailed the first layer with no intervention from me. This has truly made a huge difference for me. Thanks for putting this together.

[@ChrisRiley]

That's awesome to hear, I am glad it helped you.

[@rouuuk]

You see chris, this is why the community needs you. You're the only one that I'm aware of that breaks down marlin in a such pleasing way. Easy to follow and covers all the scenarios. Thank you

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you!

[@PlatinumQuestETC]

I regularly come back to this video if I need some help troubleshooting and/or re-leveling. Can't say enough how great this walkthrough is.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you

[@SvenEnterlein]

Same! I've been here at least a dozen times :)

[@ftcministriesworldwide]

Chris, all I can say is "Wow!" Thank you for taking the time to do this video. Wow!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you for watching! Glad it was helpful!

[@babyface3105]

@@ChrisRiley Hi thanks I resolved the problem LINE 1264 #define MESH_INSET 1 I changed (1) to (46) bacause when I let (1) I only get 55/100 point // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed I tried 35 and I get 90/100 So to get 100/100 I set line 1264 MESH_INSET TO 46 #define MESH_INSET 46 //46=100// //45=99// //35=90// // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed But some of points (87/100 - 88/100 and 89-/100 are out of the bed (behind) the prob d not touch the bed

[@efnick96]

This is one of the most if not the most comprehensive guide for UBL that I've seen. Thanks a ton! They should include this video to the marlin documentation!!!!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! I was actually thinking about doing an update video.

[@cferbentn88]

Ive been fighting this on my second sv01 for months. Found your tutorial, and it is simply amazing how you go step by step, so no guess work needed. THANK YOU!!!!!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it helped!

[@JohnOCFII]

Back in 2016 or so I was watching the Marlin GitHub issues and PRs daily. As I recall, Roxy was one of the key developers on this feature, and it was great watching the progress. I moved away from having a printer that used “straight” Marlin, so never got a chance to test the working version. Very impressive to see it all come together.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, it's kind of strange we have seen a lot on cartesian UBL. It's been around a while, but it doesn't seem that a lot of people are using it.

[@paulgupta2454]

So I'm replacing my stock 8 bit controller with a 32 bit controller tomorrow...and I was preparing a marlin .bin for it...thank you so much for making sure that I do this project on *another* day. I'll stick with bilinear for now! Thanks! This looks amazing and stupid-easy once it's set up...but I really appreciate your video letting me know how many steps alone it is just to get running. I'm sure I'll be able to do it when I'm ready though and I've bookmarked this and subscribed just for how easy to follow this was!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for the sub, good plan on holding off on UBL for now. It has changed a bit, I plan on making an updated video.

[@Isa187]

I just had to comment on how appreciative I am for your effort on educating us about 3d printers. You have got me through some hard times with setting up my printer. Little did I know the deep waters I was entering when I upgraded my ender 3 pro motherboard from a silent creality one to the skr 1.4 turbo. I had no previous experience with visual code or g-codes etc. But watching your tutorials with your easy to understand method of teaching has helped me sooooo much. I still have a long way to go but I'm starting to understand this stuff now and it isn't as daunting as when I began. Thank you.

[@ChrisRiley]

I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching

[@uksmudgesmith]

Hi Chris, just spent the last 2 hours playing with UBM, didn't know it even existed! thank you for the great content.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great! Glad it was helpful!

[@uksmudgesmith]

One thing I noticed with the g26 command, after I g28 the print started from the centre of the bed (home location) how do I solve this?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@uksmudgesmith Not really sure on that one, you can send it to 0 0 manually, g1x0y0

[@Stricken174]

I found interesting thing about my anycubic kossel. It has fixed bed, so it twists different with different temperature. So I decided to calibrate ubl for each type of filament. And then you can use filament override options in prusa slicer. Works great. I did delta calibration on cold bed. Then I preheat it for 65 / 75 / 95 Celsius and made a UBL for each one. Difference between 65 and 95 Celsius is really visible.

[@ChrisRiley]

Great idea, nicely done!

[@NOR3MSTI]

your a genius, fired my printer up after not using for a year or more, and have spent two days of frustration, then found your video again. Thank you sir!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad I could help

[@GeekDetour]

Dude! Very nice tutorial - thank you so much! To me, the most important part was which GCode commands should be set in my slicers to load the mesh and compensate it just with eventual tilt changes. Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I am glad it was helpful.

[@EddieRushing]

FYI the slots for meshes are numbered from 0 to 6. 0 being the first slot. Thanks for posting the video, very nicely done.

[@ChrisRiley]

Cool, thanks.

[@jeduardob2060]

Chris, as always an excellent tutorial ... I have used your tutorial of bi-linear leveling and never failed. Keep up the great work !

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Great to hear it worked!

[@mattv9240]

Some of the best 3D printing videos made! Added bi-linear to two of my printers using your how-to on the subject. May try this on my TEVO Tarantula that's due for a tear down. Keep up the great work!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Matt! The comments are much appreciated.

[@mattp3437]

Chris, couple of more comments. One thing to look out for is if you set Z safe home, you will prime in the middle of the bed when you use G26 G10. So you should first do G28, then G0 X0 Y0 Z2, then do the G26 P10. Also, my print looked like cr*p because I am using a bowden setup and I don't think Marlin does retraction unless you have firmware retraction setup. I changed to firmware retraction and the G26 test print looked much better.

[@ChrisRiley]

You can actually set all that with the G26 command in line if you wish marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G026.html.

[@davidcgu]

One of the best tutorials I found about this topic, congrats, however there is a small note, pre bed leveling is required or you can face that sensor is not able to capture all points on the bed during process. Regards

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks David. I did find it has to be pretty level before it will work well.

[@kevinhembree9097]

Thanks Very Helpful , On a side note after doing this i could not get my printer to extrude out the rite amount, found out that enabling eprom overrides the steps per mm in Marlin, had to send the steps per mm in the terminal and then save it to eprom, if that makes since, still new at this, thanks KH

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I have been caught by that a couple of times, now I always run a M502 then M500 just in case.

[@devingearing]

Is there a GCode command to change the number of probe points?

[@ChrisRiley]

Not that I know of.

[@r00t31337]

Chris, thank you so much for the video! I've upgraded my printer and had a hard time configuring it. Was able to resolve all my issues with Z calibration.

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it helped! Thank you!

[@matthiasgrimm4979]

Chris, thanks for this very good intro to UBL. I had it once activated but 'Real men don't read instructions' and didn't knew what to do, so back to bilinear ;) Just set it up on my Sapphire Pro (SKR 1.4 Turbo).

[@ChrisRiley]

I hear that! LOL, glad it's working for you.

[@SamChaneyProductions]

When I did the Z offset like you said around 11:00, I got a Z value of -12.4mm which seemed very large but I tried it anyway and then when I went to print, the printhead slammed into the bed. Why was the Z offset so high? It seems like there are 2 Z probe offsets, one in the firmware and one in the printer menu. When I go into Control-Motion-Probe Z offset it was set to 2.3. Why was it so big when I tried to use the method you described, then why did it slam into the print bed after? When I did G1 Z0 before manually moving it down, it was way high up off the bed so I needed to lower it 12.4mm. I'm very confused now.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sam you might have something preset in the eeprom. Take a look at M503, make sure there is nothing already set in the M851 command.

[@neuxstone]

I can't figure out why you don't have more subscribers than the typical Toy Boy maker channels...keep up the great "to the point" honest content.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks man! We are getting there.

[@gabrielfusaru1211]

Hi Chris, Very clear instructions !! Congratulations and ... thanks! What catch my eye too was the magnets under the front edge of the heat plate. Clear for me, it's not an "industrial" made heat plate. Could you supply some info (heat plate type, magnets type, adhesive type, solution reliability)? Maybe a short video? fusi (Romania)

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I just grabbed this sheet off my MK3 for this video. It's this sheet here. shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3mk3s/216-spring-steel-sheet-smooth-pei.html I just used some small magenets I had. These I think. www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Refrigerator-Magnets-Premium-Brushed/dp/B07B3SDRCP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=round+8mm+magnets&qid=1579298022&sr=8-4

[@iNcHeS295]

Hi Chris - amazing guide thanks so much. I had a look through the Marlin docs and found the variables P5 and P6... on first glance they appear to do the exact same thing as the Z-offset. Are you able to elaborate on the purpose of these two? Is there an advantage of using these over the z offset or vice versa? Cheers

[@ChrisRiley]

I really don't know at this point. They have changed this up since the last video. I intend to do a new video on UBL soon.

[@iNcHeS295]

@@ChrisRiley Looking forward to it. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

[@thetango8017]

As always you are the best at explaining and being great at the details. May have to give this a try - Thanks for the video.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Good luck on your setup.

[@Rocketeer6]

This is one of the best videos I have seen in a while! Your tutorials are always fantastic:)

[@ChrisRiley]

Sweet! Thanks Thomas!

[@strangejmaster]

This video amazing! I was able to take some parts of it away and finally get UBL working, thank you!!!

[@ChrisRiley]

Excellent!

[@darkfool58]

thanks chris, obviously working on this a precursor for this would be to make sure you have got your bed size correct in marlin and on the printer as this might be different from physical bed size. 🙂. currently working on that

[@ChrisRiley]

Definitely! Thanks and good luck with your projects!

[@wrxsubaru02]

can you do a video on centering the prints and troubleshooting as to why it may not be centered? I cant seem to get my prints to print exactly in the center of the bed no matter how much i mess with the offsets. I have it safe home at center and still i cannot get it to work right.

[@ChrisRiley]

I can probably work that into a video. Are you trying to adjust it in Marlin or in the slicer?

[@wrxsubaru02]

@@ChrisRiley I managed to figure it out after about 4 hours. I was adjusting configuration.h file and I had to change the x min position to positive 5 after home as well as set the center of the bed x and y coordinates. I tried other methods that people made videos but they just did not work. One guy said to set manual home position as well as adjusting the x_min_pos to negative value but that made my x go too far and the belt skipped. It seems there are several ways and certain combinations so maybe you can touch on all the methods and combos if you make a video.

[@wrxsubaru02]

@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris, do you know how to make each UBL point double checked with the probe rather than one check per point? mine is moving up and down once per point, but i want it double checked per point to make sure it gets more accurate reading. I cant figure out how to do it. EDIT: never mind, i think i found it. #define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2 #define EXTRA_PROBING 1

[@ChrisRiley]

@@wrxsubaru02 Good deal, glad you found it.

[@wrxsubaru02]

@@ChrisRiley Me too! lol Your videos must be good luck because I always seem to figure it out as I'm typing or after I type my question on your videos. Thanks for all your hard work and helpful tutorials man. 🙂

[@lewisheard1882]

Cheers dude, followed your step by step guide and breezed through the config! It took me longer to update to the latest marlin bugfix then it did to implement this :D

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Glad it worked for you.

[@christiankim3038]

I have a sovol SV03 and no other tutorial has helped me better than this one. I'm fairly new to 3d printing so I couldn't figure out why my prints were doing so bad after I left for a while. Thank you very much!

[@ChrisRiley]

Great to hear!

[@uNevaKnow_chi]

what are the ohter two options under the BLTouch section? What do they do? One is FORCE_5V_MODE and the other is FORCE_OPEN_DRAIN_MODE.

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure where you see that?

[@uNevaKnow_chi]

@@ChrisRiley under #define BLTOUCH

[@uNevaKnow_chi]

Might be because I'm using the beta Marlin 2.0

[@ChrisRiley]

@@uNevaKnow_chi Ah, yes, in 2.0. I am not sure what those are used for at this time. I know the bltouch can operate in 3.3v mode, but I thought that was a soldered setting. Maybe they are adding control for that mode now.

[@stigberntsen9301]

Great video, altough - the G29J - I found to mess up the actual saved mesh by "adjusting" to the same number for all spots (visible after print with G29 T). So I use G29 L1 G29 A (just to be sure) - and then my first level takes benefit of that long G29 bed level we do in this process. I run Marlin 2.0.x.bugfix, might be something who differs from 1.1.9

[@ChrisRiley]

Interesting, thanks for letting me know. I might run through this again when 2.0 comes out with an official release.

[@stigberntsen9301]

@@ChrisRiley Seems it made an average hight valid for all point - at least on my build (recent version) - Not tested if it does this on 1.1.9

[@michaelchien1236]

Thanks Chris, quick question, in the beginning you mentioned to set Endstop_Inverting to "TRUE". If my printer is already working properly with "False", do I still need to change them to "True"?

[@ChrisRiley]

No, as long as it works, you're good.

[@DanoManik]

I’ve a UBL set up and installed on my Gantry Pro but when I try to level the bed the nozzle is pushing into my plate and I’m beyond frustrated and no matter what I do (adjusting the Z height etc) I can’t get a print to work using Arduino and Marlin. I’ll attempt using your tutorial and see how I get on. 😢

[@ChrisRiley]

Give it a try, you might have something stored in your eeprom causing you problems. Run a M502 then M500 to restore it to default.

[@SteinerSE]

Why do you need to bed level before you set the offset? The bed leveling won't change the offset, only how the printer adjusts to the offset during print? If you have the default safe homing settings, won't it home automatically to the middle of the bed, so no need to manually move the head there?

[@ChrisRiley]

Anytime you home you wipe out the leveling. After the G29, leveling is enabled, then it will let you apply the offset.

[@dineshvyas]

You are just amazing. I was struggling with UBL your video solved my problem.

[@ChrisRiley]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@TheWongEdward]

Hi Chris, I followed everything to a T, I got to the step where the test was to be performed. The nozzle crashed into my bed and started gouging out a hole in the PEI spring steel sheet.

[@ChrisRiley]

Is there anything unusual is eeprom? There could be an offset in there causing a problem.

[@TheWongEdward]

​@@ChrisRiley I used a combination of the adjusted code for the lines pertaining to Marlin 2.0 build including the specifications and instructions provided from this tutorial, however the LJ 18A3-8-Z/BX 8MM inductive sensor would trigger about 9.5 mm above the print bed, heace the z-probe offset being 9.5 mm above. The way I calculated this was doing a G28 to home the nozzle, without using z-min stop and instead relying on the z-probe to provide the endstop, and calculating the value after slowly adjusting the nozzle unitl just touching a feeler gauge approximately the thickness of a piece of paper. I am not sure if it considers the amount of Z-offset the probe would be had the probe was touching the bed before the nozzle would, hence the approximate 1 mm distance from nozzle with zip tie you were referring to earlier. I am very confused and worried my amazon purchase isn't available to exchange but slice cumbrance considering how far it took to get to having functional bed levelling. I can provide my compiled Marlin code if need be to assess any issues. I am using a CR-10S printer also. Thank you for being there to help with diagnosing my issues, hopefully it will be able to be resolved soon, bed levelling is a must for intricate or larger scale prints! thanks LJIvbe 18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm Inductiv

[@jawolllinger]

Hey Chris, awesome video! It helped me a lot setting up UBL on my SKR v1.3. I am struggling with the mesh editing feature though: when I try to edit points via the LCD menu the carriage doesn't move in the pattern your's does on log (from left front to right and then one row over) but instead some different location often outside my print area... crashing... I homed before editing with G28 and have RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28 enabled. I also have Z_SAFE_HOMING and ENABLE_MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY enabled with a BTT Full Graphic Smart Controller Display. Regarding the erratic pattern one more thing: when I issued the G29 P1 command (after G28 of course) it didn't move in a spiral pattern as described on the marlin documentation but in a very random pattern. It completed though without the two rows the probe just couldn't reach. I populated those with G29 P3 and checked with G29 T - like you explained - and everything looked ok... but trying to edit these extrapolated points via LCD did not work (the others also didn't...). Furthermore moving my nozzle via pronterface close to the points in question and issuing a G29 P4 initiated the edit menu on the lcd but doing a G29 T after that showed the brackets in a different row (same column) at least close to where the probe sits and not the nozzle... do you have a clue what might be going on? Thanks in advance.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! I am not really sure what is going on there. I think somethings have changed. I need to run through it again, maybe it's time for an updated video.

[@Bebers]

Always top quality work Chris! Glad to have you making these videos.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks a lot Benjamin!

[@surensimonyan6060]

Question: How does UBL work on a delta printer? Do the blank points need to get filled in? Or leave them alone?

[@ChrisRiley]

I wouldn't mess with it on a Delta, the delta leveling, G33, works a lot like it already. Not sure how that works with G26 really, it might work the same as UBL where you can tweak each point.

[@surensimonyan6060]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you for responding! Reason I ask is because I've gotten some of the best leveling with UBL on my Anycubic KLP with the SKR 1.4, but I keep getting holes in some places. G33 is required with all deltas to account for differences between the heights of the endstops and the tilt of the bed, but it doesn't actually "level" the bed, per se.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@surensimonyan6060 Yeah, I have never really tried it. You might be able to edit the map. It would take some experimenting.

[@surensimonyan6060]

@@ChrisRiley If you'd like to give it a shot, Jay Aristide put together a pretty dope fw with UBL and other goodies, and I adapted it to the SKR 1.4 and BLTouch and have been using G29 P4 R to edit the mesh. It's working pretty brilliantly nowdays - Jay really did a great job. Give it a shot if you want to: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4081644

[@ChrisRiley]

@@surensimonyan6060 I will check it out, thanks for the link.

[@rodryk5605]

Gr8 job in keeping us informed, Chris.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Rodryk!

[@asdadsasda1]

I have tried to set it up but i get the fallowing #error "MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY requires AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL and a Graphical LCD." I don't have a graphical LCD, i have a REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER It looks exactly as the one from prusa it's actually in a prusa case, did you set anything else diferently? Cheers for the video, keep them up they have opened a new world for me so far.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks for watching! Just comment out this line. //#define MESH_EDIT_GFX_OVERLAY

[@asdadsasda1]

@@ChrisRiley Oah, pff, i don't know how i missed that. Cheers Chris thanks for the help. Sorted now back to finishing the setup :D

[@doncland]

Nice concise video Chris. I appreciate you get right to the point. I have a question about marlin 1.1.9 and I believe if anyone knows quickly, you would. Ill get right to it, I swapped out the mainboard in an Anet E12 for a Creality Cr-10s 1.5 Board. Works great after flashed with Marlin 1.1.9 . The machine has dual Z steppers and the usual X,Y and E Steppers. The new board has those sockets as well as a 6th socket for a second extruder stepper. Im using Ramps_14_EFB in marlin, (from the examples/creality/cr_10s folder) The new board supports dual extruders but no matter what settings I adjust In the RAMPS or PINS H or Configuration H I get an error in arduino that the socket is currently in use for the second z stepper and halts. My question, Do you know Is there a Setting or a way to add pins for the sixth socket so marlin can access the extra socket thus allowing me to the use dual extruders? Thanks again Chris.

[@ChrisRiley]

Hello, so that board has 6 stepper drivers on it? Usually you would hook both Z motors up in parallel to one driver then use E0 and E1 for your extruders. What board do you set Marlin to in your config?

[@doncland]

Yes, 6 stepper sockets. I found a limited tutorial on the sellers blog stated to copy the CR-10S config files in Marlins example dir. The board arrived with a boot loader only. No system. But has a big chip do marlin 9 fits great with almost all the features enabled. The marlin configs have RAMPS_14_EFB.H listed as the board and it's worked flawless. I've tried a few different settings boards from examples. I found a pre configured CR-10s sets but it was marlin 1.1.5 and used RAMPS_13_EF which doesnt support a heated Bed . I understand the usual boards for 2 extruders the drivers are ran parallel but hey, the board was $39 on Ebay and has the extra socket so, trying to use em. Attempted to upload a pic of the board. Its listed as a creality v2.1 but got no joy.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@doncland Ok, then really we just need to know what pins that 6th one uses. We need a pinout diagram or maybe we could pull the information from that older version of Marlin.

[@doncland]

Yeah, have been searching for a pinout map for this board with no luck. The older version didnt use the 6th socket either so wasnt much help. Attempted to extrapolate what the logical next set of pins would be but the board has 6 extruder sockets, 3 filament /Bed sensor sockets, 3 thermistor sockets, 3 end stops sockets, 3 case fan sockets and 2 adjustable nozzle fan sockets. My attempts at devining the pattern led to some interesting and unexpected results. None of any use whatsoever. I keep checking the sellers on Amazon and Ebay for driver updates and info. (found the Marlin 1.1.5 on an Amazon sellers page). Im sure over not too much time this board will gain support. It was practically plug and play. Well design too with built in extruder mosfet so no overheating problems either. And at $40-$50 us, I thought it was a bargain full of features. Thanks for you assistance Chris. I let you know If I get anywhere with this. And keep up the Excellent videos. Very informative and direct. Take care and happy printing.

[@ChristoffL]

Quality content, I've read that you should use an uneven number of probing point as it is better for some reason, Quess it doesn't go trough (0;0) otherwhise and marlin doesn't like that or something.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Hmmm, interesting, I will have to look that up.

[@Versus3D]

great video! Have you ever seen the G26 test pattern happen well off center (each pattern is 50mm from the left edge and runs off the right edge)? It's happening on 2 of my printers and I'm not sure how to fix it.

[@ChrisRiley]

I have seen it do some crazy stuff. Try lowering the data points and see if it changes anything.

[@alexscarbro796]

Another excellent video! I followed the process (including buying and fitting an inductive sensor) and got all the way to compilation phase to discover the CR-10 controller is ~64kB short of program memory for these features! Dohh. Can you recommend a controller I can fit instead that works well with the latest Marlin release for UBL? I can sort out a separate display/encoder if the stock CR-10 unit is incompatible. Thanks, Alex

[@ChrisRiley]

Doh! For the money I think the MKS Gen L is probably the best for something like the CR10.

[@jpt3640]

Thanks for this guide. G29 works just fine for me, I am stuck with finding the right Z offset. it seems to change all the time. Why did you heat the nozzle for G29 P1? Why don't you uses M290 babysteps for Z offset?

[@ChrisRiley]

It's been so long ago now, I can't remember. Not sure how much this has changed over the years.

[@jpt3640]

Thanks. I just went with printing and finetuning afterwards instead of Doing some calibration process

[@cthulpiss]

question: after first G29 T max delta was like 1,6mm, then at 14:33 after next G29 T is was way less, like 0,8mm - have you levelled the bed manually ?

[@ChrisRiley]

I did level a couple of times to get it corrected. I ended up with around .2 in front and .8 in the back to get the ABL to complete successfully.

[@spikekent]

Superb tutorial as always Chris. I'm still using Bi-linear levelling on the Borg, which is working perfectly. Will probably give this a try at some point too though.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Spike! Yeah, give it a try for fun. Most of the time you probably don't need it, but it is interesting.

[@Bsolo09]

Is there a way to use the Octoprint Bed Visualizer plugin to have your printer take the values measured and adjust your Gcode to account for the errors in your bed? I have a warped bed and would like to use the bed visualizer to automatically adjust my Gcode to change the Z height to create a more accurate print that accounts for the errors and makes a near-perfect first layer print....

[@ChrisRiley]

I know you can use the full graphics display for this, but I am not aware of a plugin to do it. There might be something out there.

[@MrReiv91]

great tutorial but my z offset is always wrong. I have a delta, marlin 1.1.x bug fix calibratetd with a 3d touch. When i start G26 the nozzle always hits the bed, changing z offset with m851 does not work, seems useless to change z offset 0.1 mm at time. Any thoughts?

[@ChrisRiley]

Those sensors can have a very tight range of where they will be accurate. If you just try a bilenare ABL, can you see the map? I wonder how accurate the readings are.

[@venture_lab]

I have a ADIMlabs printer that is based on the CR-10S with a capacitive probe... I have the latest UBL Marlin flashed on the Arduino board would but I noticed a lot of code parameters that you implemented in Arduino are different than how I setup my probe... I was curious if this step-by-step video will work with my setup? Sorry if I left out info if you can assist let me know!

[@ChrisRiley]

I am not sure, but it should be pretty much the same. Sensors work the same as far as the firmware is concerned.

[@venture_lab]

Hello Chris, for some reason my "z-probe offset" value has no noticeable affect on my z-values. The only noticeable affect is when I offset the "mesh grid" using "G29 P6 C-X.XX". I am using "Marlin 1-1-9 rev1.4". I have success printing near the center of the bed but as I drift to the corners my first layer is unreliable - any advice? Thank you.

[@ChrisRiley]

Things have changed in UBL, I am going to try and rework it for another video. The only way I know to get around the offset is to set it before you enable UBL.

[@ogunniyiadebambo2822]

Thank you... Build my won 3d printer using ramp 1.6 have been having problems since day one. I can level it .. once I set it to home and I tried to print something it the nozzle always go higher ... It won't touch the bed and I don't no what to do ... I think there is something am missing here ... Hope your video will help on this. Thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

When your setting it up make sure you reset eeprom, there might be something in there messing you up. Run M502 then M500.

[@ogunniyiadebambo2822]

@@ChrisRiley thank you very much for your support But my ramp 1.4 is empty there is no programming inside it.... I just upload new firmware on it. I notice that if I tell the z axis to move 10mm it will move 80mm I think the problem is from the Merlin firmware it get something to do with motor step ... Maybe the default step is not working fine for me. But when. I reduce the z step .. the z axis now start moving slow...pls help me

[@ChrisRiley]

@@ogunniyiadebambo2822 I don't know anything about your printer. I would have to have details to tell you what to put in the config. This site might help you figure out. blog.prusa3d.com/calculator_3416/

[@johnlytle6633]

Hi Chris, I set up UBL with the help of your video and have a question. I had to remove the print bed on my printer and figured I would run a G29 again to see if I changed the mesh. I had to refamiliarize myself with the parameters and found it has a K parameter that is suposed to compare a current mesh with a saved mesh. The Marlin website only shows the syntax as [L]. I can't seem to figure out what that means and they don;t give an example. Do you know how to specify comparing a newly acquired mesh to the mesh in slot 2? Thanks for all your great videos.

[@ChrisRiley]

I'm not sure, somethings have changed and I still need to revisit this.

[@johnlytle6633]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply Chris, I’m pleased to know that my questions are getting better. I saw a bug report on GitHub about G29 K (kompare) but it was abandoned without resolution. It would be great if they would include an example because the problem is probably a syntax error. Keep up the good work!

[@the.real.ipatch]

is it possible to fill in the mesh for UBL without an encoder wheel? unfortunately all i have is a touch screen LCD, and it does not have an encoder wheel. 🤦‍♀️ however i can connect to the printer using proterface if that makes a difference.

[@ChrisRiley]

I think you can get that done with an M421, check this out. marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M421.html

[@josepenalver652]

Hi Chris, I have a problem with my inductive sensor (5v). My Z_Offset is correct but after the print, I notice a drift of the Z. What is going on? Do you have a solution? Thank you for your videos which are always of great interest ... Continuous, do not change anything ... José

[@ChrisRiley]

Thank you! Not sure what is up, I get a lot of questions with strange things about UBL. I think I will redo this video and figure it out.

[@josepenalver652]

@@ChrisRiley Thank you Chris for your response. I continue to test to find a solution. If you make us a video, it's great .... Thank you and see you soon

[@elfpimp1]

This is the part I have so much trouble with. I don't know why I find it so difficult to comprehend the z offset. I'm saving this video to try this out. Also, I have a mks TFT 32 touch screen. Will this work as far as the grid thing is concerned?

[@ChrisRiley]

I totally get that, It's hard for me to wrap my mind around as well. The touch screen, I don't know, I would be very interested to know the answer.

[@elfpimp1]

@@ChrisRiley thanks, when I get the time and courage I'll give it a go and let you know..

[@arqcgs]

Amazing tutorial! Thank you, Chris! I am using BL Touch, Blinear and Ramps 1.4 in my reprap 3D printer. It was working well until my nozzle, after some prints, went down to the bed, ignoring my Z probe offset. So, the filament didn’t prime on first layer, resulting a big mess. Do you know what is happening? Once again, thanks for your helpfull tutorials.

[@ChrisRiley]

Do you know if something over wrote eeprom by chance? Do an M503 and see what M851 says at the bottom. Hopefully it matches what you have in Marlin.

[@arqcgs]

Chris Riley OK！ I will check it. Thanks!

[@NickdeKleijn]

Hi Chris! Some questions: 1. You say the MESH_INSET should be as big as possible, shouldn't it be as small as possible? I'm having some issues with setting this correctly 2. Can you give some more information about G29 P2 B? I'm trying to create a mesh that includes the whole print bed, including the edges. Of course my probe can't reach part of the edges. P3 doesn't do this correctly, and P2 should help with this, but I'm at loss on how to use this command and set the correct shim. The Marlin notes are not very descriptive. 3. When you edit the mesh and edit the points, do you have to guess the right offset? You started with a paper to measure the height, but while editing you are not using it. When trying it on my printer I also see the Z is not changing when I change the height on the LCD; how can you use this properly then? Thanks in advance :)

[@ChrisRiley]

1, yes you are correct, you need to have your probe area as big as possible. The other two questions I am not sure about. I am going to do a revisit video on UBL.

[@NickdeKleijn]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for answering! I figured out how G29 P2 B works now, the UBL Info page you link in your description actually does a fairly good job of explaining how it works. Thanks again for the video, cleared some things up for me! :)

[@kevinhoskins1897]

Hi Chris, It appears that you are using the nozzle as the probe element for the UBL mesh generation. Is that the case? If not, what probe element is used? Thanks.

[@ChrisRiley]

I am using a 5v inductive probe.

[@kevinhoskins1897]

@@ChrisRiley , Thanks for confirming the z-probe method used in your video. I see that the Marlin 2.0.1 release lists a new function: “NOZZLE_AS_PROBE.” Will be investigating this. Might you also?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@kevinhoskins1897 Yes, I want to give this a try for sure.

[@jamesk1619]

Thanks for this. I was able to setup UBL following these steps. However, after the test print using G26 P10 which prints fine, the LCD is showing "Leaving G26" and is stuck there. I can't do anything without rebooting. Is there a way to end or disable this message?

[@ChrisRiley]

You could put a command in your start gcode to clear it. M117 Yello World!

[@InterplainMusic]

Another issue i have, when send a G29 J it just probes the same place and says: SENDING:G29 J Tilting mesh (1/3) This is ok 20mm to the back left of the board. Tilting mesh (2/3) This probes in the same place as 1 Moves to right and stops with the message below. ?Error probing point. Aborting operation. Any ideas please. latest build 2.0.5.3

[@ChrisRiley]

Sometimes if the bed is too far out of level it will throw that error. I'm not exactly sure what is going on it this case.

[@InterplainMusic]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks for replying..

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Well done. When I finally have time that is added to my list.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks James! It's not easy, but somewhat interesting.

[@ZebraandDonkey]

Looks alright. Nice progression in really dealing things in on a printer. Are you planning on keeping the Rambo on Log?@@ChrisRiley

[@ChrisRiley]

@@ZebraandDonkey As of now, yes, until I can't get around the lack of pins any longer.

[@michaellitzkow8123]

Great video! Many thanks. I wonder why dial indicators are not used more by 3D printing geeks? The Chinese ones are cheap, accurate, and can be temporarily held in place by a magnet. Their use (on a temporary basis) would eliminate the extra electronics for a leveling probe. More importantly this would reduce print head weight. Also they would work with any print bed material.

[@ChrisRiley]

You know, I have one and I have tried it many times before with mixed results. It would be nice to find a smaller one that could be easily integrated into the build. I might have to look for one and give it another go.

[@novazipstream2]

How do you fix the issue where the nozzle goes completely off the bed? For some reason my nozzle when drawing G26 just drives off off the bed and extrudes filament all over my table

[@ChrisRiley]

Try increasing your inset setting.

[@cristiantalos4042]

Wow! Amazing video! I'm so glad i found this :D i've been stuck with issues with UBL until now :D Thanks! Keep up your great work!

[@ChrisRiley]

Glad it helped!

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

Great video. Daft question. Do I need to run the three-point level before a print? Or do I simply load the stored mesh and ensure UBL is enabled? Thanks!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Now I don't remember, LOL, I don't think you need to run it, it should have it saved if you just load the mesh.

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris!

[@chethammer]

Would it be possible to do a video update on this for Marlin 2.0. There is a lot of line items that are in a different place as well as totally renamed. Hard to figure out what's what.

[@ChrisRiley]

Sure, I can add it to the list.

[@chethammer]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I just discovered an ABL updated video on your channel. I"ll see if I can't combine the two and make it work.

[@chethammer]

One other question if you get the time...Why is my g26 print not centered on my bed? I'm doing this on an ender 3 with custom SKR 1.4 turbo firmware.

[@ChrisRiley]

@@chethammer That is done with bed size, I would try to adjust your min bed positions to the negative to try and get back to the center.

[@colinraines395]

Hi Chris still struggling .Using MARLIN Bugfix 2.0 how do I add a sub folder ref Line 1273 Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.

[@ChrisRiley]

Unfortunately, I have never done this. I am not sure, might be a question for the Marlin team.

[@jamescullins2709]

Chris do you put the G29 L1 and the G29 J in the start script?

[@ChrisRiley]

I would just for good measure. That will load the save mesh and do a 3 point level to tune it up if needed.

[@jamescullins2709]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks, that is what I did.

[@AL3X36000]

Hi Chris ! I've learnt a lot with your channel, especially understanding Marlin FW . However, i've followed every step on this video, i cant have a decent G26 Mesh, Once i finish fine tune all the points, and when i do a G26 to validate that bed leveling, the extruded material ( PLA @210°C on HB @45°C) is higher on the right side than the left side, do you have any tips and tricks regarding this problem ? also when i print the validation final validation pattern ( the STL one you use at the end) give me same result, larger on one side than the other ... How ever, the problem is not as visible as it is when i use Bilinear leveling ...

[@ChrisRiley]

This is the downfall of UBL, it sounds silly, but you have to be almost level before UBL will work. Run bilinear from the terminal and look at the map, try to level out your X as close as you can. Once that is really close, try UBL again.

[@gold-junge91]

Hit my nozzle is on the mid Z0 and my bltouch is 2.9 but is it + or -

[@ChrisRiley]

Not sure I understand.

[@deadspeak2007]

Great video! i'm having a strange issue where the g26 grid is printing bigger than my print bed!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! That's know good. Is it a custom install? Do you think the X and Y step values could be causing it?

[@deadspeak2007]

@@ChrisRiley It's a custom install on an old tevo tonado. It's and odd one steps are all ok, could be bltouch offsets maybe. Anyway i've run the test and manual adjustments of the mesh, and i'm getting the best most consistent fist layers now. now to add into my tronxy x5sa

[@lucaszito109]

Hi Chris ! Great video, super clear thank you ! I have a little issue, when I run the G26 P10 command, the printer starts printing and goes extremely fast. Is there a way to reduce the speed of the mesh validation tool. Is there a way to set up the speed ? Thanks !

[@ChrisRiley]

Strange that it is going so fast, I don't know of a setting to slow it down, maybe you can dial back your FR on your LCD?

[@lucaszito109]

@@ChrisRiley What do mean by dial back the FR on the LCD ?

[@ChrisRiley]

@@lucaszito109 On your LCD you should see FR, that means feedrate. If you roll the KCD knob down the feedrate will lower and slow the machine down. See if that impacts the UBL speed.

[@lucaszito109]

Okay I'll give it a shot! Thanks

[@marioizzo4985]

@@lucaszito109 I think he spoke about the feed rate, usually shown on the display with FR (eg. FR 100%).

[@calendil]

Thank you! One question, my printer does not start from front left on G29 P1, but it starts on the center and pics random points to probe, why is that happening?

[@ChrisRiley]

Does it probe in the center to home? If so, that is probably why. It should still work the same.

[@calendil]

I set it to 7 by 7, when I set it up 10 by 10, it behaved the way yours did.. That is interesting. By the way I watched lots of popular channels about 3D Printing, nobody explains the way you do. Thank you. Subbed!

[@ChrisRiley]

@@calendil Hmmmm, now I kinda want to try it. :) Thanks for the comment, glad to have you on board with us.

[@MOVIEKICKS]

Does UBL work good with Buildtak (or other like Prusa) removable beds that are taken off and put back on after prints? Does taking these removable beds off and on again change the height of the bed ever so slightly where the UBL grid points were originally obtained and therefore make the UBL grid obsolete?

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, it will work, but you should probably have a grid for each different sheet. If you are using the same sheet it's not going to make that much difference.

[@MOVIEKICKS]

Chris Riley Great, thank you!

[@mattp3437]

Chris, nice video. Your videos are always well done and very helpful. You mention setting MESH_INSET to avoid the perimeter of the bed. Would this already be addressed if you use MIN_PROBE_EDGE which works across leveling types?

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Well, I don't know. My limit was set to 0. I would have to test it, it might calculate one, then the other.

[@rickc7151]

hey chris I have just installed an SKR in my prusa mk3s and updated the firmware with UBL enabled...before you configure UBL how do you configure the Z offset? Im used to doing this with an ezable but not sure with a pinda..thanks

[@ChrisRiley]

That is a flaw in UBL. It is easier to setup bilinear and set the offset, then move to UBL.

[@onebadzx3460]

Is there a stl file for the orange plastic piece on the back of the extruder stepper

[@ChrisRiley]

Check this one out. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3250689 This one is my fav. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3528397

[@eduardorenteria455]

Hi Chris, i hope you can help me out. I just installed marlin firmware to a anycubic predator and im trying to use the UBL but after 50 points or so it quits doing the probe and shows Stow Z Probe. I seems like it touched the bed too early or too late and i not able get past this. I appreciate your help!

[@ChrisRiley]

It has a max negative value that it can tolerate. Try changing this #define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT -2 to -5

[@eduardorenteria455]

This worked! Thanks man! I know it is not much but you have earned a new follower

[@mauriciomoraes3226]

Hey Crhis.. it's me again... I am trying to run UBL on Marlin 2.0 but when I do the G26 command, the printer starts printing mid-air completely ignoring the Z offset

[@ChrisRiley]

Yeah, I have heard UBL issues a lot lately, i'm not sure what's going on with it. I plan on doing another video to sort it out.

[@dddxp7311]

can u tell me, its normal that problem? what its the common, heat the bed then level, and print, or level bed, then heat up, print?

[@ChrisRiley]

I answered the other comment, but this is a pretty common issue even on inductive probes.

[@dougw9224]

I have a btt 35v2 tft and my understanding is that a lcd screen is needed for ubl. I was able to get as far as the test print. For the most part will that be good enough to use ubl? Thx

[@InterplainMusic]

I have been trying to set up UBL an I am struddling to get it to work on SKR 1.3 Chris has told me that there is a problem getting it to work. I too use a TFT 35 V2.0 and but the UBL for it hasn't been done only the Touch part.

[@dougw9224]

I’m running a skr1.4turbo with a tft 35v2 and a bltouch. I was able to get as far as storing the the mesh into slot1. It appears from the video that anything after that is just fine tuning, so I believe for the most part I’m good. I did have a setting enabled prior that was centering the the bed at 0,0 that was messing my abl up.

[@ChrisRiley]

Yes, I think you can get by with it as long as you don't need the fine tuning.

[@Worelock1966]

awesome video Chris thanks, I have been using a BLTouch and Bi-Linear leveling. This is going to help me move to the next step!

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! So glad it will help you out.

[@dddxp7311]

Chris, im having some trouble with bed level... to work on my printer, i have to do EXACTLY the same thing. I mean, same temperature, same time with that tempereature reached (if i put 105 degree, and let there the machine, for like, 5 minutes, i got one value, if i do de bed level at the right moment it reached 105 degree, another), can u understand the problem?↑ what could it be? i got a lot of variation printing like 105 degree on the bed, and 115 degree, and 70 degree, each of those temperatures give me one z offset diferent... can u help me?

[@ChrisRiley]

So it's probably do to the sensor you are using and the thermal expansion. What kind of sensor are you using?

[@alexecheverria]

I salvaged a FLSUN i3 Plus and was able to load it with Marlin 1.1.9 that the seller provided for this particular printer and performed autolevel with the blue box inductive sensor it has. At first I found it needed -1 offset and it printed perfectly. I think I presed the dial in some of the, for me, misterious options like "load" or "save" or "reset" EPROOM and now it prints in mid air! Will hav to start again from the begining as it seems lots easier than this procedure. But lets see if I feel confidnt enough to venture in such a cumbersome process. And I was going to start trying to avoid stringing in prints! Can you make a tutorial for that also? Best regards!

[@ChrisRiley]

The delta process is a little easier than this one I would say. I did a video on that here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3ibeJeErtymi7M

[@unrealscenics4702]

Wow Chris what a video. My ender3 will never be the same again 👍🏻

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@tlar1272]

How do you send commands to the printer? (At time 7:35)

[@ChrisRiley]

The easiest way is with Pronterface. www.pronterface.com/

[@PaulColeVFX]

I love your videos.. its just geeky enough for the tech guys and simple enough for the noobs.. HOWEVER : I would like to see more stuff t the end.. how to fix things when it goes wrong.. like on this video .. if your inset is not right and the props tries to prob off the edge of the bed or if you have a large gap between your BLTouch and the nozzle and it can't reach all the spots.. G29P3 GUESSES don't work well when things like that fail.. and its tough to fix from octoprint.. also some vids on when octoprint goes haywire... cause octoprint modifies geode on the fly and streams it to your printer kinda like clipper . and Canada a bunch more tuning of footprint to do.. (like if your octoprint bed size is different than your Cura settings.. and octoprint clips edges square when you actually have bed space ( full bed problems) or plugins that show you the bed visualizing and it actually mods the code..

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Paul, sure, I can work on some stuff like that.

[@brantwinter]

When you do the manual mesh editing (at point 4,1), do you use your paper underneath the nozzle to adjust the nozzle to the bed? I mean, when I set the Z offset using M92 it has been done by placing a piece of paper under the nozzle.

[@ChrisRiley]

I know this sounds still, but you will need to have you Z offset adjusted before you start. This is the only way I have found to get good results.

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

Chris, is it a good idea to store meshes for PLA and ABS? Thank you!

[@ChrisRiley]

I would say yes, big swings in bed temp, I would save different messes.

[@CMDRBlueeagle66]

@@ChrisRiley Thanks once again 😀

[@InterplainMusic]

Can i ask Chris? does ones map have to be on the positive side, like yours. My map is reasonably level but the numbers are -0.155 negative values no positives. May sound like a thick question to ask. LOL but i am confused.

[@ChrisRiley]

It can be negative or positive or both. It will correct for both.

[@InterplainMusic]

@@ChrisRiley thank you for clearing that. Hope your well mate.

[@chloemcholoe3280]

Don't forget to turn back endstops with s1 Also when I change the z offset it doesn't apply the change until I re do the leveling process. any ideas? it takes... long....

[@ChrisRiley]

If you change the offset, you should be able to apply it with just a 3 point level.

[@Stricken174]

Thank you, man! I can't understand how it works until I saw your video. Maybe it can fix my delta.

[@ChrisRiley]

Nice! Glad it was helpful.

[@Stricken174]

@@ChrisRiley Yes it was! Today I'd flash new firmware and did UBL> Result - almost perfect. Only my Z probe offset was too low) The only difference is to calibrate your delta before performing G29. Otherwise, that will not work.

[@jakefromstatefarm8545]

Is there any way to change the z probe temp before a print with gcode instead of in the firmware? I usually print PLA at 205/50 but I’ve been running some high temp PETG lately at 270/70.

[@ChrisRiley]

Hey man, you mean for the g26 test print? If so, yes do G26 Bxx Hxxx

[@Sergiodj453]

Like always Chris, Nice job explaining it all.

[@ChrisRiley]

Thanks Sergio!